The Tropical Fruit Forum

I say Kwai muk.

Thank you Rob - no, I totally agree, and it’s a crapshoot at best.

Looks like it, some people buy green jackfruit as a meat substitute in recipes.
I only pick or buy them when their spikes become blunted

Yeah in past years I used to be able to find fruits like you described, but lately all I seem to see are green ones or rotten ones.
It’s a bummer. Used to find some great tasting jaks but it’s been a long time.

Bought a jak at the market on Saturday.
It was solid green when I bought it and only very minimal if any fragrance.
No soft spots or any sign of injury.

Now it’s darkening unevenly and has what look like human stretch marks (first pic).
It is not putting off normal room-filling aroma and only smells fruity near the “stretch marks” up close.
Still not much give to the fruit at all

I know it doesn’t matter since the proof will be in the pudding, but…

Is this a dud?

Picked too soon?

Thanks

Ahh ok. My last round of spraying I used a couple small squirts of a more concentrated dish soap (a “natural” type) in a gallon.

So maybe that’s not it.

Would too-frequent or too strong Epsom salt have same effect?

The only wildcard is I’ve seen this in prior years when not doing any foliar spraying of any kind.
Could it be heat/water stress? Only develops mid to late season in the heat.

Some of my mature trees are recently developing what I’m calling leaf scorch.
See pictures.
This is not the first time.
It essentially begins as little brown spots that become a larger and larger area (though not in the way that fungal spots coalesce).
There is no yellowing or any other leaf symptom that precedes it.
It’s not every leaf on the tree, just some. And not just the leaves that get the most sun.

I have a lab diagnosed magnesium deficiency but that usually shows as interveinal chlorosis and usually shows up later.
I feel like this scorch could nevertheless be another symptom OR some other nutrient issue possibly per above observations in prior posts in this thread.

Any ideas?

This is a sorta controversial subject.

The short answer is no - they are not true to type. But they might be very similar, or potentially even "better."

Much of the literature highly discourages planting of seedlings with the explanation that they are not true to type and furthermore are usually poor quality.
But others such as the late Jerry Lehman suggest that if the parents of the seed are high quality, the seedling is relatively likely to also be high quality. Several backyard growers can attest to this fact - i know some whose favorite trees are seedlings.

I think when literature discourages planting seedlings, the assumption is you are planting random/unknown seeds or  wild seeds. In this case I agree that there good odds of getting mediocre to poor fruit.

I think there is a chance that some named varieties coudl have more dominant genetics and therefore be more likely to produce true to type. But i'm not sure if we know what varieties those are.
Of course the pollen parent would have a lot to do with how the seedling turns out.

Bottom line is I would try to plant only seeds where both parents are known to be superior. Even then, in every case there is at least moderate potential for the seedling to be different/lower quality.

Sorry to hear about your challenges.

First - how old are these trees and have they fruited before?

further - I don't think fertilizing, especially with organic inputs as you mentioned, would have this kind of impact unless you put pounds and pounds per tree.
I also don't think cicadas target the fruit. However - they certainly will target your pawpaw BRANCHES of about pencil diameter for laying eggs. The females make slits on the underside of branches and insert their eggs. It doesn't cause immediate problems but by the end of the year and into next year, there will be wounds and you may have dieback of the branches (not of the tree itself).
It's POSSIBLE some of this activity has inadvertently dislodged fruitlets. Also, birds will peck at them, at least here at my place, though not in great numbers.

I was asking about the age of your trees because young trees just flowering/fruiting for the first time may not be mature enough to hold many or any fruits. Sorry if you know all of this already but flowers can appear to be pollinated with baby fruits while in actuality the pollination is incomplete. These will look like tiny bananas and can hang on for a couple weeks or more but will drop in late spring.
Then even fully pollinated flowers that produce fruitlets can still result in dropped fruit in the June timeframe. In fact my trees are dropping up to golfball sized fruits right now. This is natural and simply the tree thinning itself because the fruit load is too high. My trees are fruiting for the first time so the amount of fruit remaining on the tree after this dropping is not high (but low-moderate). Even mature trees will drop fruit in early summer.

So all of that is to say it could be totally normal!

I was considering using Tanglefoot to seal the stump after bark inlay grafting.

Based on this thread that sounds like a recipe for rotting out the rootstock?

I've been wanting to try this with Asimina triloba for a couple years. I don't know anyone who's tried it.

I even set out to do it in pots and in the ground by planting multiple seeds close together, but have chickened-out every time.

I'm afraid i'll kill all the stocks if the in-arching fails.

i do not have personal experience, though both Black Walnut and Asimina triloba are endemic/wild here. They grow together in the wild. I know at least one grower who intentionally planted Asimina triloba and black walnut together.

i've also read in several places that Asimina trilboa is not affected by juglone. One person even used black walnut hulls as mulch around his Asimina triloba.

So, I would say - go for it!

I finally got to see your pictures. That bee looks bigger than the one I saw. In my case the bee was sleeping between the two outer whorls of petals, not in the center of the flower.