Should I stake this mango tree?

[nanewnanew]

Hola,

I planted a Hayden Mango tree last July, I think it was 3 or 5 gallons. It put on a bunch of new growth and is currently flowering, almost all on one side. It stands about 4.5-5 feet tall and is starting to lean. My first instinct is to stake it so it grows upright but I keep reading most young trees don't benefit from staking.

I am planning on removing dime sized fruit this year if I get any, and was wondering if I shouldn't just cut the flower stalks now (where do you cut)?

Should I stake it? Prune it? Both, neither?

Opinions appreciated.

[Ulfr]

Regarding flower stalks leave them. If you cut them early it will often just flower again.

As for the staking I might be tempted to if you want all current growth. If it was my tree I would wait until after flowering and prune back to encourage stronger/lower branches and more growing points.

[Ulfr]

Double post

[Seanny]

Who said staking is not beneficial?

I stake my trees with fiberglass stakes so the trees can sway in the wind.

[simon_grow]

I don’t stake my trees whenever I can get away with it, most seedlings planted directly into the ground will not require any staking.

But, you have consider what your starting material is. Often newly purchased trees from the nursery look like your tree. In this situation. I would stake it at the lowest point possible and still allow for your tree to be upright but still allowed to sway in the wind. If heavy winds are expected, it will need to be secured better to avoid being snapped. The extra ties should be removed after the wind event so the wind stress can make the trunk stronger.
Simon

[simon_grow]

I forgot to mention, as the bloom panicles expand, the weight will cause the branches to droop even more. You don’t want to remove the entire panicle because it will likely re bloom although we are having an unusually warm winter and my seedlings are still flushing.

What you can do is remove about two thirds of your the bloom per panicle. This will remove much of the weight and decrease blooming and it should not cause a secondary bloom. I tried this with good success.

Simon

[Ulfr]

What you can do is remove about two thirds of your the bloom per panicle. This will remove much of the weight and decrease blooming and it should not cause a secondary bloom. I tried this with good success.

Good one to remember thanks

[nanewnanew]

Alright thanks. I'm going to stake it and prune back some of the panicles. Would pruning the panicles also help the tree establish a stronger root system? People talk about removing the smaller fruit, but why not just prune the panicles to begin with (apart from it being exciting to watch the fruit develop)?

Also, Ulfr (and others), how would you prune this tree? Just remove some branches?

[simon_grow]

Alright thanks. I'm going to stake it and prune back some of the panicles. Would pruning the panicles also help the tree establish a stronger root system? People talk about removing the smaller fruit, but why not just prune the panicles to begin with (apart from it being exciting to watch the fruit develop)?

Also, Ulfr (and others), how would you prune this tree? Just remove some branches?

Removing the entire bloom panicles in cold climates will cause the tree to remove bloom unless the tree is kept above the threshold temperatures which stimulate blooms. Removing fruit around marble or thumb size usually means that it’s later in the season and thus it should be warmer and less likely to rebloom.

It is better to remove the small panicles of fruit when the temps are above the threshold temperatures instead of waiting for the fruit to reach a specific size because if Fruit from an early variety sizes up quickly because of a warm early winter and fruit is removed at thumb size, colder late winter or early Spring temps can cause a rebloom.

Simon

[zands]

Nothing wrong with staking a mango tree. I say the risks of weakening it via coddling it are over rated. Far better to protect it against a snapped trunk. Stake it well and maybe you will not have to prune it back so much. Each leaf is a valuable solar collector in a mango trees younger years. All my staked trees have done well...they are not staked forever. Stakes are removed when they don't need them. I have a very billowing avocado tree/10ft high/ and it is staked with a green steel fence post or whatever you call them...from Home Depot

IMAGE OF GREEN STEEL FENCE POST >>>  https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=green+steel+fence+post&FORM=HDRSC2

[nanewnanew]

That makes sense, going back and forth across the threshold temp can cause multiple reblooms. Alright, it's staked, thanks for the help all.

[spaugh]

Nothing wrong with staking a mango tree. I say the risks of weakening it via coddling it are over rated. Far better to protect it against a snapped trunk. Stake it well and maybe you will not have to prune it back so much. Each leaf is a valuable solar collector in a mango trees younger years. All my staked trees have done well...they are not staked forever. Stakes are removed when they don't need them. I have a very billowing avocado tree/10ft high/ and it is staked with a green steel fence post or whatever you call them...from Home Depot

IMAGE OF GREEN STEEL FENCE POST >>>  https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=green+steel+fence+post&FORM=HDRSC2

T post

They work well for staking trees.  And they last forever and can be reused.  Wood posts rot and break.  8ft length is the best.  I put 3 of them around avocado trees if they need help.  And use the green tree tape.

[simon_grow]

Nothing wrong with staking a mango tree. I say the risks of weakening it via coddling it are over rated. Far better to protect it against a snapped trunk. Stake it well and maybe you will not have to prune it back so much. Each leaf is a valuable solar collector in a mango trees younger years. All my staked trees have done well...they are not staked forever. Stakes are removed when they don't need them. I have a very billowing avocado tree/10ft high/ and it is staked with a green steel fence post or whatever you call them...from Home Depot

IMAGE OF GREEN STEEL FENCE POST >>>  https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=green+steel+fence+post&FORM=HDRSC2

Zands, I avoid staking whenever I can get away with it not because of the girdling issue but because staking when not necessary causes weaker trunks when Mangos are grown in SoCal. Over in Florida the Turpentine rootstock thickens up fine but here in SoCal, the trunks are very slow to thicken up. The flexing of the branches and trunks in the wind causes additional lignin deposits at the stress points if I recall correctly. I found some scientific literature on this a while back but too lazy to look it up now:)

Simon

[zands]

T post
They work well for staking trees.  And they last forever and can be reused.  Wood posts rot and break.  8ft length is the best.  I put 3 of them around avocado trees if they need help.  And use the green tree tape.

Thanks! Now I know what to call them instead of whatever or what have you.

[zands]

Zands, I avoid staking whenever I can get away with it not because of the girdling issue but because staking when not necessary causes weaker trunks when Mangos are grown in SoCal. Over in Florida the Turpentine rootstock thickens up fine but here in SoCal, the trunks are very slow to thicken up. The flexing of the branches and trunks in the wind causes additional lignin deposits at the stress points if I recall correctly. I found some scientific literature on this a while back but too lazy to look it up now:)
Simon

That makes sense for your conditions. I never would have thought so (all I know is Florida) but it makes sense.

[CA Hockey]

Reading your post reminded me of my own backyard chores. With all the heavy winds we’ve had this season, my potted mango trees are literally taking a bow. I’ve got several trees I need to get to but the task seems a little daunting and I’ll be planting them in ground in the next 2-3 months or so. Not sure if it will hurt the plants to remain as is or not. I attached photos below. Alternatively, I’ve considered pugging them and letting the lower trunk thicken up. I have lots of 1/4 inch stakes but in the pits the soil is loose enough and the tree bent enough it just drags the stake with it. I’ve stakes one tree by tying it to an external fixture that I had to screw into the soil, but it was like 10$ and I’m looking for a cheaper way to do this.  Thoughts or advice?

Cotton candy




Juicy peach



Madame Francis



Keitt



Fruit punch



Sweet tart



Ambrosia ( in the background)



Coconut Cream

[spaugh]

Those mangos flopping over could use a fence or horizontal rail to lean against.  Maybe get a 20 foot section of pipe up about 2 or 3 feet off the ground and tie each trunk to it loosly with flagging tape.

You could get a few T posts to support the pipe.  I would leave them and not pug them if they already have a good shape and growth.  Its going to set them back a year or 2 if you do it.