I went to Singapore & Malaysia (Johor) last week. I thought I would share some details about my durian adventure from the trip.
My main intention was to go for a good friend's wedding. The second priority was to try various varieties of durian. On my island, durian is quite rare. I have shared a durian with friends on several occasions, typically at HTFG meetings/conferences, but you are lucky if you get a taste. There isn't much in the way of named varieties or different tastes.
For those that have never been to Singapore, its a really beautiful clean city. Referred to as the Switzerland of the east, its covered by banking and banking related businesses.
Some pictures of Singapore
I would be staying 1 day in Singapore and 3 days in Malaysia. The first day was out to look for durian. I found this website to aid in locating durian stalls:
http://www.hungrygowhere.com/gallery/where-to-buy-durians-18-sellers-to-track-down-*gid-75743101/
Before I left I flagged all the durian places on google maps and then download a copy of the map and flags. Then I could find where they were in proximity to each other and hit up the closes centers.
The first place I headed was Combat Durian and Sindy Durian. I was ready to head out 6am, but waited until 9am to head out. Not heading to the advice that fruit was delivered, I thought I would get the jump on either leftovers or the first arrivals. It was a 3 mile hike, and the temps were the same as back home (low 80s). I underestimated the humidity. At home (HI) the humidity is regularly around 50% and can get as high as 90%, the humidity in Singapore was really unbearable.
I found some fruit markets open immediately, with nothing exotic that I hadn't seen before. The most exotic thing I found was a Malay pineapple, that was pointy on one side.
I easily found the first durian stall, and when I asked around, they said that you have to come back in the afternoon (after 3pm). Many locals frowned at me when I asked, saying its very expensive. For me, the price of the plane ticket was $900, buying several fruit at $30-50/ea wasn't going to deter me.
I was surprised to find that they sell out all the fruit, at what was the equivalent of $30USD. I caught a cab over to fruits 1 and wonderful durian. The driver told me the story of how durian arrives from Malaysia to Singapore. In the morning, they pick them up (from the ground, never picked from the tree). Its a 3 or 4 hour commute from Central/Northern Malaysia to the Singapore border. They then wait for the rush hour traffic to die down before crossing into Singapore. The border crossing can take 1+ hours. They have lunch before delivering to the durian stalls. The typical Singaporean picks one up on the way home from work.
It was clear that in Singapore, to find durian you had to leave the high end areas like the Raffles district.
At fruits 1 I found XOXO which is the CAT variety. It was a little bitter. The seller spoke no English, and referred me to just eat the fridge durian, since it was already prepped. Being that this hunt was already 3 hours, I was tired, I would gladly take it. The price was 22SGD (conversion rate of 1.6SGD to 1 USD) =14USD. It was pretty good, a little bitter, I finished the entire container (< 1kg). That was probably a big mistake...
Some pics of fruits 1
I made it to wonderful durian, where I was sold a Musang King. I didn't research enough how to identify a Musang, so I was sold on the first taste. I proceeded to eat that entire durian. I got 2/3rds the way through before I quit. At this point I was so full, I just wanted to lay down. I barely made was able to walk to the subway train about a 1/2 mile away. The subway train is cheap and the best way to get around. A ride is about 1USD, and for a little more you can reach almost anywhere, in air-condition, typically underground where its cooler. I never rode the train in rush hour, so I cannot comment what its like with the rush. Its pretty much like NYC subway, except without the trash, smell, graffiti, crime, well then its nothing like the NYC subway, except the convenience.
Some pics of wonderful durian:
I am now carrying my 1/3rd of a durian on the train, which the eyes and stares are going all around the car as everyone gets a whiff of the durian. I can see that everyone is wondering who is carrying a durian. As I carry my loot back to the hotel, I am carefully scanning for the no-durian signs. Which have become a national symbol of certain high end areas of Asia. Nobody suspects its the foreigner in flip flops and shorts.
I have now triple bagged the durian and I take it to the hotel. Its a fairly nice hotel (the Fairmont). I smuggle it upstairs. When I come out from my room a half hour later, there is an air purifier next to my door.
The next day I head to the wedding prep in Johor, Malaysia. My friends father in law hears that I like durian, so he sets out a tray of frozen durian from his small orchard (24 trees). That was the best durian of the trip. Super sweet, no bitter taste. Unfortunately he did no the know the variety, he bought the property at auction. His trees were probably 30 years old. I ate that tray for breakfast/lunch/the next day's breakfast and lunch. His favorite fruit is durian. I asked his son, what his favorite food was of all the malaysia, singporean, japanese, chinese fusion dishes, he said durian was his favorite food. So its def. well liked.
In Malaysia durian stalls are everywhere. They can be found on street corners, outside shops. We even ate durian while we waited for the car to get washed.
Some car wash durian place in Johor:
There was a lot of good info, my friend' father in law says as the trees become older the flavor really enhances. Some of the best durians come from the oldest trees. They never fertilize or water the trees. For his trees, the production seems to vary, the biggest influence being if it rains during the flowering.
There was so much durian leftover, I took it back to Singapore. I stored it triple bagged in the hotel fridge. Now to find a place to eat it... I found a nice park with a nice shade tree. I can see as other tourists walk by, they must think I am clearly crazy sitting on the ground devouring the durian leftovers. I know the smell alone is probably disgusting... I don't care, it tastes really good. At this point, I estimate I have eaten around 6+ pounds of durian on this trip. By this time I am durian'ed out.
Also on the trip I found some freeze dried durian. I bought several bags to take back. They are actually pretty dang good. So for those who have a craving or just want a new snack, these are great to share. I think I found them for $5USD per bag at a market there.
https://www.amazon.com/King-Fruit-Vacuum-Freeze-Monthong/dp/B003OS5DJS Amazon lists a bag at $14, and it might be worth the novelty.
I also have some durian instant coffee which I haven't tried yet. I will post a review when I try it.