The Tropical Fruit Forum
Tropical Fruit => Tropical Fruit Discussion => Topic started by: simon_grow on November 03, 2015, 08:00:55 PM
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I just visited Leo and he's still got lots of Mangos hanging on his trees. Some of his clusters of fruit were so heavy that I'm surprised it didn't snap the branch. Some of his clusters must have had about 10 mangos and they weren't small mangos. There were lots of mangos hiding in the canopy but are clearly visible if you up from under the tree.
Simon
(http://s3.postimg.cc/piu0eyekv/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/piu0eyekv/)
(http://s3.postimg.cc/trtok0bin/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/trtok0bin/)
(http://s3.postimg.cc/6p35kua1b/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/6p35kua1b/)
(http://s3.postimg.cc/5yaff27nz/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5yaff27nz/)
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More pics
(http://s15.postimg.cc/kl1w1qozb/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/kl1w1qozb/)
(http://s15.postimg.cc/t1wsyx4af/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/t1wsyx4af/)
(http://s15.postimg.cc/wk8svb56f/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/wk8svb56f/)
(http://s15.postimg.cc/szcxc30mv/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/szcxc30mv/)
And here is a Double Stone Grafted Lemon Zest I planted for Leo several weeks ago. I spread several of my DSGed trees around San Diego to see how they perform in other people's yards.
(http://s12.postimg.cc/mn1ondpy1/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/mn1ondpy1/)
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Very nice Simon as those are beautiful mangoes. It will be interesting to see how your double grafted LZ grows in 2016. I lave a LZ I purchased in late July of this year from Florida and it has already put on two growth flushes. Hopefully the warm El Nino 2016 weather pattern will be beneficial to our mangoes hear in the south land.
Johnny
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Very nice Simon as those are beautiful mangoes. It will be interesting to see how your double grafted LZ grows in 2016. I lave a LZ I purchased in late July of this year from Florida and it has already put on two growth flushes. Hopefully the warm El Nino 2016 weather pattern will be beneficial to our mangoes hear in the south land.
Johnny
My LZ from Florida which I've had about 4 years just lost all of it's leaves and is dying back, Simon has the right idea, double grafting and using manila rootstock.
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Any Idea Markee why your LZ is Dying. Do you have any Photos. Have you narrowed it down to the root stock and if so why. If you have other mangoes are they effected too.
Thanks
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Simon,
That is great! All the posts I have read from you, JF and others regarding Leo Manuel's yard and fruiting enthusiasm is just awesome!
I sure you have mentioned this before, but what is your preferred seed for DSG? (Manilas?, Keitts?, or does it not matter, or are you still tinkering to find an optimal combination?)
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Leo is an incredible man. He has mangos ripening from fall to late spring and look at the quality and the amount of the fruits......amazing, a mango legend in SoCal!!!
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Thanks everyone!
I have a few experiments going on with Lemon Zest and Here is a quick breakdown. I have two LZ Mango trees ordered from Florida and presumably on turpentine rootstock. They were both approximately the same size when I ordered the trees but one tree was planted into the ground sooner than the other. The LZ that was planted into the ground first busted out with 4-5 flushes if I remember correctly. Because LZ is known to be a vigorous upright variety, I decided to let it grow uncontrolled with no pruning to simulate a word case scenario of uncontrolled growth.
This tree flowered and fruited the first year but the growth was so vigorous and due to the Turpentine rootstock( this is assumption but there are multiple members that can vouch) the vegetative growths were long and weak with an extremely droopy habit typical of what we see from Florida grafted Mango trees but exacerbated by the extreme vigor of the LZ. The majority of growth showed signs of nutrient deficiencies.
The brother tree was slightly delayed in growth because it was in a pot for several more months before planting into the ground and it did not flower the first year. For this tree, I implemented a tip pruning regimen following Dr Campbell's recommendation. Scaffold branching for both these trees start approximately 3-4 feet from the ground. This second tree has flushed about three times and so far the growth is not droopy although some of the growth showed signs of nutrient deficiencies.
My third LZ is actually three different branches of LZ grafted onto a Lavern Manilla rootstock. These grafts took with vigor and flushed three times with tip pruning. These grafts show no signs of droop growth and also do not show any signs of nutrient deficiencies.
My fourth LZ is my Double Stone Grafted plant from this thread: http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=16549.0 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=16549.0) It has flushed three times in three months since grafting onto double Kent seedling rootstock. The trunk has more than doubled in size and it is naturally forming ultra low scaffold branches which may be beneficial for this extremely vigorous upright grower. I would like to keep this tree low, bushy and very fruitful so I feel that very low scaffold branches are required as the foundation.
I also have DSGed LZ on Indian Mango rootstock, Ataulfo, Glenn, Haden, TA, and mixed ( mono and poly) rootstocks. I have also spread some of these DSGed LZ trees to different parts of San Diego in order to get more data points for future analysis.
So far, the best rootstock to use for DSGing is Kent seedling rootstock but any vigorous mono seedling seems to work really well. For long term health of the tree, one Mono and one Poly seedling may give better disease resistance.
Simon
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Thanks for sharing your experiences on your LZs. I too am noticing the same thing with my LZ here in AZ. The tree is from Florida. Vigorous growth but most of the new leaves show a lot of signs of deficiency. I foliar feed and regular fertilizer on my fruit trees and the mangoes I have are the ones only showing signs of deficiency.
I'll have to try and graft some onto manila rootstock to see if there's any difference here.
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Thanks everyone!
I have a few experiments going on with Lemon Zest and Here is a quick breakdown. I have two LZ Mango trees ordered from Florida and presumably on turpentine rootstock. They were both approximately the same size when I ordered the trees but one tree was planted into the ground sooner than the other. The LZ that was planted into the ground first busted out with 4-5 flushes if I remember correctly. Because LZ is known to be a vigorous upright variety, I decided to let it grow uncontrolled with no pruning to simulate a word case scenario of uncontrolled growth.
This tree flowered and fruited the first year but the growth was so vigorous and due to the Turpentine rootstock( this is assumption but there are multiple members that can vouch) the vegetative growths were long and weak with an extremely droopy habit typical of what we see from Florida grafted Mango trees but exacerbated by the extreme vigor of the LZ. The majority of growth showed signs of nutrient deficiencies.
The brother tree was slightly delayed in growth because it was in a pot for several more months before planting into the ground and it did not flower the first year. For this tree, I implemented a tip pruning regimen following Dr Campbell's recommendation. Scaffold branching for both these trees start approximately 3-4 feet from the ground. This second tree has flushed about three times and so far the growth is not droopy although some of the growth showed signs of nutrient deficiencies.
My third LZ is actually three different branches of LZ grafted onto a Lavern Manilla rootstock. These grafts took with vigor and flushed three times with tip pruning. These grafts show no signs of droop growth and also do not show any signs of nutrient deficiencies.
My fourth LZ is my Double Stone Grafted plant from this thread: http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=16549.0 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=16549.0) It has flushed three times in three months since grafting onto double Kent seedling rootstock. The trunk has more than doubled in size and it is naturally forming ultra low scaffold branches which may be beneficial for this extremely vigorous upright grower. I would like to keep this tree low, bushy and very fruitful so I feel that very low scaffold branches are required as the foundation.
I also have DSGed LZ on Indian Mango rootstock, Ataulfo, Glenn, Haden, TA, and mixed ( mono and poly) rootstocks. I have also spread some of these DSGed LZ trees to different parts of San Diego in order to get more data points for future analysis.
So far, the best rootstock to use for DSGing is Kent seedling rootstock but any vigorous mono seedling seems to work really well. For long term health of the tree, one Mono and one Poly seedling may give better disease resistance.
Simon
Seems counter intuitive to me to want to amp up the vigor on a LZ. LZ is the most vigorous mango I have. I love the idea of lateral growth, if that is replicable you may have a winning combination. If not, you may have created a monster, a delicious monster, that you harvest with a skyscraper. I don't think there can be too many LZs in the world. Love the great work and knowledge your giving.
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Is this thread dedicated to Leo Manual's yard or just another double stone graft propaganda?
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Is this thread dedicated to Leo Manual's yard or just another double stone graft propaganda?
JF, I was remarking on Leo's yard above (see about 5 posts above this one) and then asked a question about DSG because Simon put a DSG LZ in Leo's yard (see end of first post).
I certainly don't think this is DSG propaganda, it was just a question that was asked and answered. So if anyone is to blame about hijacking the thread, it's me.
Apologies.
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Thanks everyone!
I have a few experiments going on with Lemon Zest and Here is a quick breakdown. I have two LZ Mango trees ordered from Florida and presumably on turpentine rootstock. They were both approximately the same size when I ordered the trees but one tree was planted into the ground sooner than the other. The LZ that was planted into the ground first busted out with 4-5 flushes if I remember correctly. Because LZ is known to be a vigorous upright variety, I decided to let it grow uncontrolled with no pruning to simulate a word case scenario of uncontrolled growth.
This tree flowered and fruited the first year but the growth was so vigorous and due to the Turpentine rootstock( this is assumption but there are multiple members that can vouch) the vegetative growths were long and weak with an extremely droopy habit typical of what we see from Florida grafted Mango trees but exacerbated by the extreme vigor of the LZ. The majority of growth showed signs of nutrient deficiencies.
The brother tree was slightly delayed in growth because it was in a pot for several more months before planting into the ground and it did not flower the first year. For this tree, I implemented a tip pruning regimen following Dr Campbell's recommendation. Scaffold branching for both these trees start approximately 3-4 feet from the ground. This second tree has flushed about three times and so far the growth is not droopy although some of the growth showed signs of nutrient deficiencies.
My third LZ is actually three different branches of LZ grafted onto a Lavern Manilla rootstock. These grafts took with vigor and flushed three times with tip pruning. These grafts show no signs of droop growth and also do not show any signs of nutrient deficiencies.
My fourth LZ is my Double Stone Grafted plant from this thread: http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=16549.0 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=16549.0) It has flushed three times in three months since grafting onto double Kent seedling rootstock. The trunk has more than doubled in size and it is naturally forming ultra low scaffold branches which may be beneficial for this extremely vigorous upright grower. I would like to keep this tree low, bushy and very fruitful so I feel that very low scaffold branches are required as the foundation.
I also have DSGed LZ on Indian Mango rootstock, Ataulfo, Glenn, Haden, TA, and mixed ( mono and poly) rootstocks. I have also spread some of these DSGed LZ trees to different parts of San Diego in order to get more data points for future analysis.
So far, the best rootstock to use for DSGing is Kent seedling rootstock but any vigorous mono seedling seems to work really well. For long term health of the tree, one Mono and one Poly seedling may give better disease resistance.
Simon
Seems counter intuitive to me to want to amp up the vigor on a LZ. LZ is the most vigorous mango I have. I love the idea of lateral growth, if that is replicable you may have a winning combination. If not, you may have created a monster, a delicious monster, that you harvest with a skyscraper. I don't think there can be too many LZs in the world. Love the great work and knowledge your giving.
Doglips, yes, LZ is already an extremely vigorous grower and I said I want to keep it low and bushy and productive but secretly I want to grow a monstrous tree as this is one of my favorite varieties. I do also have NDM and Julie on DSG to see how they handle multiple seedling rootstocks.
As I was speaking with Leo yesterday, he suggested I type up a story regarding my experiments with Double Stone Grafting to put into the CRFG newsletter and I will probably do so when I get more results from the various DSGed trees out there.
Most of Leo's large and fruitful trees are from various seedling rootstocks and I feel that is a big part of Leo's success in growing his beautiful and productive trees. Since the DSGed trees are still new to SoCal, I am still recommending to people here in SoCal to plant trees grafted onto Manilla rootstock as I and other have had good success with this rootstock.
I edited the title to this post so please feel free to talk about Leo's mangos or Mango tree talk in general. If you have specific questions or need specific answers to the Double Stone Grafting technique, please post under that thread as others may be interested in your questions and answers.
Simon
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Amazing!
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Simon,
Leo's mango photos show something like NDM and Maha or whatever Thai varieties with a month of ripening stilll. Did he delay the season by aborting the easy flower/fruits and kept the late flowers in July/August?
Did you say Leo's trees were seedlings and not grafted?
Sapote
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Is this thread dedicated to Leo Manual's yard or just another double stone graft propaganda?
JF, I was remarking on Leo's yard above (see about 5 posts above this one) and then asked a question about DSG because Simon put a DSG LZ in Leo's yard (see end of first post).
I certainly don't think this is DSG propaganda, it was just a question that was asked and answered. So if anyone is to blame about hijacking the thread, it's me.
Apologies.
No need to apologize starch. Here are more pix from Leo's amazing mangos a few weeks ago
(http://s10.postimg.cc/6jzdaqck5/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/6jzdaqck5/)
(http://s10.postimg.cc/af2rdavpx/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/af2rdavpx/)
(http://s10.postimg.cc/5rwpbj8d1/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5rwpbj8d1/)
(http://s10.postimg.cc/eiz4s22ad/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/eiz4s22ad/)
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Is this thread dedicated to Leo Manual's yard or just another double stone graft propaganda?
JF, I was remarking on Leo's yard above (see about 5 posts above this one) and then asked a question about DSG because Simon put a DSG LZ in Leo's yard (see end of first post).
I certainly don't think this is DSG propaganda, it was just a question that was asked and answered. So if anyone is to blame about hijacking the thread, it's me.
Apologies.
No need to apologize starch. Here are more pix from Leo's amazing mangos a few weeks ago
(http://s10.postimg.cc/6jzdaqck5/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/6jzdaqck5/)
(http://s10.postimg.cc/af2rdavpx/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/af2rdavpx/)
(http://s10.postimg.cc/5rwpbj8d1/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5rwpbj8d1/)
(http://s10.postimg.cc/eiz4s22ad/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/eiz4s22ad/)
Those are beauties!!
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Most of Leo's large and fruitful trees are from various seedling rootstocks and I feel that is a big part of Leo's success in growing his beautiful and productive trees. Since the DSGed trees are still new to SoCal, I am still recommending to people here in SoCal to plant trees grafted onto Manilla rootstock as I and other have had good success with this rootstock.
I planted a bunch of Keitt seedlings this year, but they don't seem to be very vigorous for me :( But I did pick up a few Manila seedlings from HD and am planning to use them for some multigraft trees next year.
I love these posts about mango experimentation and especially the success stories!
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Simon,
Leo's mango photos show something like NDM and Maha or whatever Thai varieties with a month of ripening stilll. Did he delay the season by aborting the easy flower/fruits and kept the late flowers in July/August?
Did you say Leo's trees were seedlings and not grafted?
Sapote
Sapote, Leo mentioned that some of his varieties were a bit later this year, we speculated it could be weather related. Leo also showed me one of his trees that fruited very heavily but only on the South side of the tree and asked me what I thought. The only things I could come up with is that the south side of the tree gets more sunlight so and the sunlight may be part of the puzzle with plant hormones that may help trigger flowering.
Generally in short day plants, the formation and developement of flowers is controlled by the number of hours of darkness. The hormone that gives the signal to flower is called florigen. Cytokinins and Auxins also play an important role in the further formation and growth of the flowers.
An alternate explanation I gave Leo is that the South facing part of his tree may have less fungal issues due to the fact that any moisture will evaporate much sooner on the South side of his tree which does not favor fungal spores from germinating.
If anyone has any other ideas why only the South side of One of Leo's Mango trees is holding fruit, I would love to hear your idea and share with Leo.
Simon
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I planted a bunch of Keitt seedlings this year, but they don't seem to be very vigorous for me :( But I did pick up a few Manila seedlings from HD and am planning to use them for some multigraft trees next year.
I love these posts about mango experimentation and especially the success stories!
My Kent seedlings were very weak and slow glowing for the first couple years, and then they just got strong and grew fast. I think Keitt could be the same.
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Leo also showed me one of his trees that fruited very heavily but only on the South side of the tree and asked me what I thought. The only things I could come up with is that the south side of the tree gets more sunlight so and the sunlight may be part of the puzzle with plant hormones that may help trigger flowering.
An alternate explanation I gave Leo is that the South facing part of his tree may have less fungal issues due to the fact that any moisture will evaporate much sooner on the South side of his tree which does not favor fungal spores from germinating.
Simon
Simon,
If the tree has been consistently this way, then both theories might be right, and why don't we ask Leo for this experiment: if the north and other sides have no fruits then test this by thinning off those side in such a way that the north branches are much taller than the south ones. Less flower fungal and more light for more more more fruits :)
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Simon,
Leo's mango photos show something like NDM and Maha or whatever Thai varieties with a month of ripening stilll. Did he delay the season by aborting the easy flower/fruits and kept the late flowers in July/August?
Did you say Leo's trees were seedlings and not grafted?
Sapote
Sapote, Leo mentioned that some of his varieties were a bit later this year, we speculated it could be weather related. Leo also showed me one of his trees that fruited very heavily but only on the South side of the tree and asked me what I thought. The only things I could come up with is that the south side of the tree gets more sunlight so and the sunlight may be part of the puzzle with plant hormones that may help trigger flowering.
Generally in short day plants, the formation and developement of flowers is controlled by the number of hours of darkness. The hormone that gives the signal to flower is called florigen. Cytokinins and Auxins also play an important role in the further formation and growth of the flowers.
An alternate explanation I gave Leo is that the South facing part of his tree may have less fungal issues due to the fact that any moisture will evaporate much sooner on the South side of his tree which does not favor fungal spores from germinating.
If anyone has any other ideas why only the South side of One of Leo's Mango trees is holding fruit, I would love to hear your idea and share with Leo.
Simon
Simon,
I think it has to do with the sun getting to the fruit and flowers, remember if part of your lychee tree gets only a bit of sun then no fruit will develop. And Leo has plenty of trees and to block out parts of his mango trees. He should "lace" the trees to get more fruit. You know first hand how many lychees he had this year, his tree is unblocked by any thing around it and it is pretty big. He also told me he gets small Jaboticaba hauls because he planted it in the wrong spot.
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Mark, I was thinking the same thing in terms of Lychees needing full sun for fruit. Leo's trees are very large and the nearby trees are definitely shading parts of the canopy.
Sapote, I just noticed the other part of your question, Leo planted lots of various Mango seeds in his yard, many years ago. He has since grafted various varieties onto his seedling rootstocks with much success. Grafting scions onto vigorous established Mango trees works really well from what I have found. Most of us are relatively new to growing mango in SoCal and we don't have established trees to work with so I suggest purchasing pre grafted trees on Manilla rootstock from JF or Behlgarden if you don't want to graft your own trees or you can perform your own grafts although the ideal time for grafting Mango in SoCsl has already passed.
Simon
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As Simon said, grafting onto mature trees has a much different effect on the growth of the scion as opposed to grafting onto "nuresry rootstock." Its not necessarily cause the rootstock/mature tree is vigorous but instead is able to provide exponentially more energy to the scions causing the scions to have more vigor and rapid growth.
Here in Florida, Pickering grafted onto 75 year old rootstock can give you a 30 - 35 foot Pickering. Pickering grafted onto nursery rootstock, a slow growing, compact tree suitable for a large pot or very small yard.
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Mark, I was thinking the same thing in terms of Lychees needing full sun for fruit. Leo's trees are very large and the nearby trees are definitely shading parts of the canopy.
Sapote, I just noticed the other part of your question, Leo planted lots of various Mango seeds in his yard, many years ago. He has since grafted various varieties onto his seedling rootstocks with much success. Grafting scions onto vigorous established Mango trees works really well from what I have found. Most of us are relatively new to growing mango in SoCal and we don't have established trees to work with so I suggest purchasing pre grafted trees on Manilla rootstock from JF or Behlgarden if you don't want to graft your own trees or you can perform your own grafts although the ideal time for grafting Mango in SoCsl has already passed.
Simon
Simon,
I have a few multi grafted mangoes that I grafted onto some 4 or 5 year old trees that have been in the ground. They are doing great, and they are on Manila, Corriente and an unknown seedling from Paul Thompsons edgehill property. Forget those TT plants. I have a couple of them in the ground and they hardly grow.
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It seems we all saying that grafted mango plants from FL are slow grow for California climate, but ideal for folks in FL to control their size. I don't know how big the market in Cal, but it's great idea for someone in Cal to start a business of selling grafted mangoes with Manila root stocks.
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It seems we all saying that grafted mango plants from FL are slow grow for California climate, but ideal for folks in FL to control their size. I don't know how big the market in Cal, but it's great idea for someone in Cal to start a business of selling grafted mangoes with Manila root stocks.
LaVerne nursery has quite a few varieties "coming down the pike"
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It seems we all saying that grafted mango plants from FL are slow grow for California climate, but ideal for folks in FL to control their size. I don't know how big the market in Cal, but it's great idea for someone in Cal to start a business of selling grafted mangoes with Manila root stocks.
Are your soils High or low Ph over in CA? I have had similar problems with bare rooted trees brought over from Fla. poor nutrient uptake, stuff I have crafted onto local seedlings , does not show this problem, so I guess you guys are on to something regarding Fla rootstock, seems best used in Fla.
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Are your soils High or low Ph over in CA? I have had similar problems with bare rooted trees brought over from Fla. poor nutrient uptake, stuff I have crafted onto local seedlings , does not show this problem, so I guess you guys are on to something regarding Fla rootstock, seems best used in Fla.
I have high pH, heavy clay, soil in Ventura County.
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Are your soils High or low Ph over in CA? I have had similar problems with bare rooted trees brought over from Fla. poor nutrient uptake, stuff I have crafted onto local seedlings , does not show this problem, so I guess you guys are on to something regarding Fla rootstock, seems best used in Fla.
I have high pH, heavy clay, soil in Ventura County.
same here in Phoenix
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I have good loam soil -- no idea about Ph level -- and drains fairly fast. Seedlings form Kent and Manila grow reasonably fast but all grafted mangoes from FL are slow and droopy. I hate the droopy look -- depressing looking mangoes :)
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I have loam soil use to be Ph 7.5-8 got it down to 6.5 and litchi 5.5. My tropicals took off after a lot of work. pix of winter mulch mixed with cottonseed meal.
(http://s15.postimg.cc/3qoqyk3jb/IMG_5221.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/3qoqyk3jb/)
(http://s15.postimg.cc/s5wyzm2g7/IMG_5222.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/s5wyzm2g7/)
here is my Tabouey x J-30 after I got my Ph to 6.0
(http://s7.postimg.cc/t1ay3ey8n/IMG_5220.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/t1ay3ey8n/)
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JF, your trees look amazing as usual but I'm not sure what looks better, your trees or your mulch. I'm very envious of your beautiful mulch layer. The pH of the soil is so important for plants to be able to uptake the nutrients they require.
Simon
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I did not know that cottonseed meal was an acidic slow-release fertilizer! Talk about learning something new and useful. I will definitely using this as part of my subtropical fertilizer regimen from now on. Thanks JF!
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where would one get cottonseed meal?
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Many gardening centers have it. Walter Anderson Nursery and Armstrong Nursery carry it.
Simon
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where would one get cottonseed meal?
Behl will be taking pre orders for cottonseed meal 50lb in spring cheaper that Amazon, stand by!
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where would one get cottonseed meal?
Farm supply stores will often carry it.
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Here in Florida the Turpentine Mango root-stock does just as well on the high-pH "rockdale soil" of the Redlands ag zone near Homestead, as in deep sandy soils with neutral or slightly acidic pH, or in potting soils.
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Thanks for the information Har, I believe Gary over in Palm Springs California has some of the best looking Florida Mango trees that I've seen. If I recall correctly, Gary says he has fast draining soil and he definitely get much more heat units than most of the other growers in California.
Simon
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Back in the mid-90's, Sun World bought 120,000 3-gallon 'Keitt' mangos from Florida and planted them near the Salton Sea. I wonder how they are doing.
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I just visited Leo Manuel and he’s still got a good amount of Mangos and some Annonas hanging on his trees. Today he offered up Keitt, Keitt seedling, Seedling #4, Leo 1, Leo 2, Leo Z, Valencia Pride, Peggy, Early Gold and a couple I can’t remember. Due to the spotty rain, some of the Mangos are cracking. Surprisingly, he’s got a bunch of NDM fruit hanging and they are not cracked.
(https://i.postimg.cc/T5dyCtJX/02-CD000-A-8493-4624-B934-7580-EEB11-D37.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/T5dyCtJX)
(https://i.postimg.cc/47THhfKy/CAF513-CA-FBE9-4267-BA9-A-AE176-FA66-FAB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47THhfKy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/14sNmzhY/FC44-EDCC-13-D7-4-EFE-A809-EB6-D91-CD810-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/14sNmzhY)
Simon
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Back in the mid-90's, Sun World bought 120,000 3-gallon 'Keitt' mangos from Florida and planted them near the Salton Sea. I wonder how they are doing.
http://www.earlsorganic.com/news/california-keitt-a-mango-not-to-be-missed/ (http://www.earlsorganic.com/news/california-keitt-a-mango-not-to-be-missed/)
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I just visited Leo Manuel and he’s still got a good amount of Mangos and some Annonas hanging on his trees. Today he offered up Keitt, Keitt seedling, Seedling #4, Leo 1, Leo 2, Leo Z, Valencia Pride, Peggy, Early Gold and a couple I can’t remember. Due to the spotty rain, some of the Mangos are cracking. Surprisingly, he’s got a bunch of NDM fruit hanging and they are not cracked.
(https://i.postimg.cc/T5dyCtJX/02-CD000-A-8493-4624-B934-7580-EEB11-D37.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/T5dyCtJX)
(https://i.postimg.cc/47THhfKy/CAF513-CA-FBE9-4267-BA9-A-AE176-FA66-FAB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47THhfKy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/14sNmzhY/FC44-EDCC-13-D7-4-EFE-A809-EB6-D91-CD810-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/14sNmzhY)
Simon
Simon please give us a brix reading on each variety. Leo is amazing! He's the only person harvesting mangos through the winter, along with Rudy, in USA. If you think these mangos are tasteless and lack brix because of the off season think again.
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Thank you for the article link, Ricshaw.
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Odd, that article suggests a 4-6 week season, but I see Cali-grown Keitts at select supermarkets throughout the year.
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I ate some of the Mangos last week and one today.
Today I cut open this mango that I didn’t label. I believe it’s Leo Keitts seedling or Leo 1. It had a few very bad fungal spots on it that went into the flesh so I cut around it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0Mvs4Tfv/47-C95183-14-EA-497-C-B263-42-F1-A4650972.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0Mvs4Tfv)
When I cut into it, I could smell some spicy turpene notes from around the skin area and the juice was thick and viscous so I knew it was sweet. It had a Brix reading of 26% and it was absolutely delicious. The only bad thing about this mango is that it had some fiber, about the same amount as Haden.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cK9RkWZg/5-FF91278-6-DD8-495-C-BB86-F4-FBD8-F72-D23.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cK9RkWZg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HcrQfNsS/EE42-E874-8-C84-4052-B1-A6-05839-AE14-A0-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HcrQfNsS)
Last week, I cut open a Peggy which had a Brix reading of 19%. I cut it open when it was firm ripe and it was incredible. It was sweet with excellent mango flavor which was slightly resinous in a good way. I’ve had these soft ripe before but I prefer to eat Peggy in the firm stage. I think I like Peggy more than the one I had today.
The Leo Z was harvest early so it did not ripen properly. It had very slight give when I ate it last week but when I cut it open, it was a pale yellow color and had that soft rubbery feel of a mango that was harvested prematurely. I knew I should have waited another week or two before harvesting the fruit but I wasn’t sure if I would have time to stop by when it was fully ripe so I rolled the dice and lost on this one.
The seedling #3 was large but as usual, it ripened unevenly and the flavor was nothing special.
Simon
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I just stopped by Leo’s place and some of his mango trees are loaded with fruit. His Todos Santos is just covered with fruit and he also has some huge Keitt fruit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/NKb4KQYY/2-E83089-D-C768-4884-9457-956-B52-A3899-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NKb4KQYY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/S2nD03B4/7-A730-E86-6696-4-A85-8495-6-B3-D7-DF0-D93-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2nD03B4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GB2jY6hD/AE989-DF2-3639-408-F-9-B49-C8-A47-DEF354-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GB2jY6hD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VSVWF4dV/CF55725-A-D04-C-4-F14-9-A8-F-74297-EA0-E425.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VSVWF4dV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VJzgsdxD/F2-AE1-B9-B-6-C47-4-D9-B-BAA6-EC9-D398-EC172.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VJzgsdxD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gXLqtRhk/F4-CDEB75-44-D5-47-C3-AF72-0-A6-DB29281-D4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gXLqtRhk)
Simon
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Some more pictures
(https://i.postimg.cc/ppsCT2Pv/3-D4-FDC67-BB96-41-F5-8523-4-DCA4-B43-D2-BF.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ppsCT2Pv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Yvj3LJSW/40867714-B6-E3-4-F87-9155-17394-FB9-C43-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yvj3LJSW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/K1V5PJKs/CCB36995-252-E-4-F1-C-BF9-F-87163-FF2589-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K1V5PJKs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vcYXb1FX/E7750-F76-D094-4-EBB-A23-C-139-C15157148.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vcYXb1FX)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YvyFc0M4/EB46-FC25-3-D0-C-46-D1-BE61-AD1-EEC3-F2564.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YvyFc0M4)
Simon
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Some giant Keitts. I believe they are in the 4-5 lbs range
(https://i.postimg.cc/bdCSSdSm/5-ACC442-F-76-A8-48-CF-99-E2-7741407-F3-EAA.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bdCSSdSm)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wy9RLmkG/C980-CC14-7902-4836-99-C9-CF71-BCFC5-F61.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wy9RLmkG)
And some fruit Leo insisted I take home for helping out in the yard.
(https://i.postimg.cc/s1kyLRkV/5563-B789-C5-F4-406-F-B680-E703-C8-D20829.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s1kyLRkV)
Simon