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Messages - KarenRei

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76
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: Rubus sp.
« on: October 08, 2018, 10:33:47 AM »
Wish there was an easy way to tell the difference on E. nigrum/hermaphroditum.  Maybe surround a plant with mesh and see if it fruits?  ;)

We're starting to get cold weather here (had a layer of slush on my windshield this morning), so I imagine I should probably wait until next year (or a warm spell) before buying live plants.  But it's nice to know that there are nurseries out there with R. chingi v. suavissimus out there; I didn't know whether it would be hard to get or not.

77
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Plantnet app
« on: October 08, 2018, 10:25:57 AM »
There's a popular free ID app that's mainly for forest trees of the north or something. The name doesn't give an indication of that restriction but it couldn't ID anything I have in Southern California. The database of that one is really limited.

Being able to ID tamarind is pretty impressive! Sounds like a good app.

Also got Physalis peruviana and Monstera deliciosa as its #1 guesses (tried M. deliciosa both by the stalk and leaves, both worked). It thought my Carica monoica was Carica papaya, but that's pretty close (nobody had uploaded C. monoica pictures). Got my acerola flowers top hit, although by leaves it was a fair ways down the list. My bananas were the third hit (I think the number one hit it guessed was some sort of Canna). Coffee leaves were fairly high on the list as well (but it couldn't identify it by its trunk; I added some pictures to hopefully help with that  :)  ).  Got my Pachira aquatica first hit by leaves, but not my trunk (most trunks in the database were actually for P. glabra... I corrected that).  Annona muricata was something like 6th or 7th on its guess list. It strangely wasn't able to get my coconut by its trunk, despite how distinct coconut trunks are (added some pictures), but it had no trouble with the leaves. I actually had a plant I didn't know what it was and it helped me figure it out (Eugenia uniflora - thanks, Plantnet, I thought I had one of those around here somewhere!).  Can't remember what other plants I tried, but... I was very impressed, this is a super-difficult task it's doing.

Whenever I'm bored (for example, in the bathroom or waiting on something or whatnot) I also take part in rating other peoples' photos, to help the neural net.  I'd guess I've rated maybe 500 or so so far, it's kind of addictive  :)  I've gotten some major seed orders in route right now (five different sellers) and I plan to take lots of good training pictures of them, every stage from seed to maturity.

78
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: Rubus sp.
« on: October 07, 2018, 09:21:16 PM »
E. hermaphroditum is considered a subspecies of E. nigrum.  I have no clue which subspecies the ones here are (is there a way to tell them apart?).  E. nigrum (of whatever subspecies) is crazy abundant here. Endless plains of the stuff.  A third of my land is dominated by it. It's very hardy and tolerates very poor soil conditions.  Practically invulnerable to anything except being overgrown (it's a very low plant); the only thing here hardier than it is moss, or maybe the blóðberg (wild thyme /Thymus praecox). Crowberry season is longer than bilberry season; crowberries  sometimes persist on the plants through the entire winter, although they're best before the first frost, and you'd never eat ones that have been on the plant all winter.

Hmm... I've never heard of Rubus nessensis being native here... but then again I have come across some sort of raspberry-like berry growing wild in the forests near Esja.  Might be an escapee or accidentally introduced species, I don't know. It only grows where there's woods; it apparently needs the shelter.  I should give them a better look late next spring / summer when they're back in leaf  :)

79
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: Rubus sp.
« on: October 06, 2018, 10:27:37 PM »
Are you only interested in Rubus species in exchange?  I can certainly order species online (although with a collection as large as yours, you probably have most everything!). Or if you have interest in non-Rubus species, I could collect some of our local edible wild berries (mainly Vaccinium uliginosum (bláber / bog bilberry), Vaccinium myrtillus (aðalbláber / bilberry), Empetrum nigrum (krækiber / crowberry); there's a couple others (hrútaber / stone bramble, jarðarber / wild strawberries, skollaber / dwarf cornel), but they're not common). And some Ribes species, but they're only semi-wild. And ever common rowan berries, but they're not great, even when processed right  ;)  Everyone's favourites are usually the bláber and krækiber species.  The bláber species might be hard to find this time of year, but there's probably a few hanging onto plants. Crowberries should be abundant.

Hmm, now that I think of it... hrútaber / stone bramble is a Rubus. R. saxatilis. But I doubt I could find any this time of year.  I always think of them as kind of insignificant, I've never found a lot of berries in one location.  But they'd probably do better in cultivation than the wild.

80
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: Rubus sp.
« on: October 05, 2018, 04:44:28 PM »
Do you offer any simply for sale?  And just cuttings, or seeds? I find Rubus chingii v. suavissimus (formerly R. suavissimus) a rather interesting plant, in that in addition to berries it contains a natural sugar-free sweetener in the leaves (ruboside, >5%; it's related to steviol). Used in Guanxi to brew tian-cha, a sweet tea. Do you have that one?
 

81
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Marula seeds?
« on: October 04, 2018, 06:49:59 PM »
Is the size difference based on what tree they came from, or do you get a mix of sizes from a given tree?

I'd be personally tempted to focus on the small seeds, on the assumption that you'd get a better flesh to seed ratio (given that that's a common complaint about marula).

82
Sent an inquiry about whether there are any cool-summer cultivars to the (IMHO ironically named) Sheri Crabtree at KSU  :)

83
Hmm, guess this is a "no" for my climate:

https://www.sfgate.com/homeandgarden/goldengategardener/article/San-Francisco-climate-not-the-best-for-pawpaw-3178485.php

"To bear sweet fruit, pawpaw requires at least moderate summer heat. As with many fruits, this is calculated in heat units, the number of hours above a certain base - in the case of pawpaw, 50 degrees. Pawpaw needs 2,200 heat units while it is developing fruit. ... San Francisco ... is about 1,550 heat units."

84
Hmm... wonder if pawpaws could be an outdoor plant here... how much summer heat do they need?  They're hardy to ~-25°C, aren't they?  We usually only get down to -15°C, so that's no problem; it's heat requirements that are usually the issue here.

If I could do them as an outdoor plant I'd be interested in any of the low-annonacin KSU cultivars (Sunflower, Wabash, Potomac, Zimmerman,
Wells, etc).  Not sure which would be the most suitable / tasty.  I think Sunflower was the lowest annonacin cultivar that they tested, followed closely by Wells, if I remember right.

85
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Leaf Scorch?
« on: October 03, 2018, 02:56:34 PM »
While leaf scorch isn't something I get exposed to in my environment (so I can't comment on that possibility), if they occurred on my plants, I'd suspect fertilizer burn.  Don't know if that's a possibility in your case.

86
I should soon be getting an order of seeds, among them Pentagonia grandifolia. The last time I ordered them, I was thrilled to get nearly 100% germination (which, given the small seeds, was a lot of plants!). But that was then - slowly, one by one - followed by 100% damping off  :Þ

Any tips for preventing damping off in sensitive species?  I'm thinking about:

1) Going with a 100% inorganic starting medium, and only moving them to soil when they outgrow it. Frequently moistened sand / perlite, so it drains well?
2) Dissolving captan in the water that I water with (my captan supply is old... will it still be functional?)
3) Keeping at least some of them in a humidity bag well past the germination stage (in case insufficient humidity was the cause, rather than fungus).  My plants grow in an area that's high humidity, but not "near 100%"

Do these sound like good ideas?  Any other suggestions?

87
Well, if you're adding in non-caffeinated Ilex species then you can't forget Ilex kaushue, aka large-leaved kudingcha (I. latifolia sometimes used interchangeably).  Very interesting chemical profile with it too  :)

Is vegetative propagation preferable for all Ilex species?  I know it's the most common approach  with I. paraguariensis, but that seeds are occasionally used as well.  I ask because live plants are a hundred times more difficult to get here (unless they come from Europe) than seeds.

88
Hi,
Im trying to experiment with all cafeinated Ilex species - Yaupon (I. vomitoria), mate (I. paraguariensis) and wayusa (I. guayusa). They need very different conditions for succesfull groving, Yaupon and Mate tolerate subtropical conditions well, while wauysa need more heat and humidity. ;)

Interesting - I've been thinking about going into Ilex species, as you get a lot of yield relative to how much area / light you give them and don't need to bring them to flowering / fruiting. You omitted one that I know of: I. tarapotina (Té ó mate).  But I have no clue how you'd get ahold of it. It's from Peru.

https://www.gbif.org/species/5533911

89
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Plantnet app
« on: October 02, 2018, 03:38:31 PM »
Has anyone else here tried out the Plantnet smartphone app? I'm loving this thing! It uses a neural net to try to identify plants from images of the leaves, stems, flowers, fruit, whatever.  Sometimes it's unsuccessful, as you'd expect (that's an incredibly hard challenge), but it's successful more often than I'd expect, and I've had a number of times where the plant in question has been the first guess (for example, it got my tamarind right away).   And every picture that you take and contribute to the app helps teach the app to recognize such images in the future. Also, while I expected the results to be biased towards common temperate plans (because I'd expect the user base to be biased toward that), instead i most commonly guesses (even when wrong) tropical fruiting plants.  You can also narrow down the selection by family or genus.

It's fun even if you don't have any unknown plants, but if you ever get into one of those situations where you have some seedling mixup and you're not sure what it is, definitely give it a try.  :)

90
I definitely did not follow the instructions. It was an experiment of sorts, and I grossly miscalculated the amount of free calcium carbonate. Surprisingly, most of the trees survived. I did lose several anonas, and my magana sapote looked like it was on the brink of death for a while -- but no more than 10 - 15% tree loss. At any rate, it was a cool experiment :D.

Sounds like my experience with pH adjustment while relying on measurements from a cheapo junk pH meter my parents gave me, just on a larger scale  ;)  I was too impatient for sulfur, though, I used diluted sulfuric acid (you have to dilute the stuff like crazy).   As you note, sulfur takes a long time to take effect.  But a little goes a long way.

91
The standard solution to draining swamps is... drains.  Trench, gravel filled, with a perforated PVC pipe at the bottom.   :)



If you go this route, don't be silly... rent a trencher rather than digging by hand.  Also, might not be a bad idea to coat the pipe in copper hydroxide paint, if you can be bothered to, to discourage roots from growing into it.

92
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Ackee Trees and Small Children and Pets
« on: August 03, 2018, 09:10:55 AM »
Rate of incidence of ackee poisoning:
http://www.jamaicaobserver.com/news/A-review--Ackee-poisoning-in-Jamaica_60767

Note it's hardly the only tree whose immature fruit can sicken or kill children. For example, lychee is a big culprit in India.

Serious problems are mainly an issue in areas with malnutrition. Not only are malnourished children more vulnerable to the toxin, but they're also more likely to eat the immature fruit, and in greater quantities.  But of course it's poisonous in any quantity.

Your call as to the level of caution to use.  :)

93
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Jackfruit marmelade?
« on: July 23, 2018, 10:35:44 AM »
I can't even imagine that, given how sweet jackfruit already is, and how low acid (hence the lime I guess!). Come to think of it, I've never had ripe jackfruit cooked, only unripe. Guess I'll have to try it - got a recipe?  ;)

My latest obsession is baobab milkshakes. OMG, love those things.

94
And this is why Brix - on its own - is a terrible measure of a fruit.  I could mix granulated sugar with mud and toenail clippings, and it'd have a great brix score.  ;)

95
I've always hated all kind of papaya bought in the store.
At the best they were tasting like a BAD MELON (that i don't like)

I think that's a great description of store papaya. They look like they should taste like a mango or something. Instead they taste like a cheap Chinese knock-off of a canteloupe. And dehydrating them makes them taste like a cheap knockoff of a summer squash.

96
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Is this calcium deficiency ?
« on: July 13, 2018, 01:45:29 PM »
Any leaf symptoms (e.g. is a deficiency in a mobile nutrient?) or unusual growth habits (e.g. boron deficiency usually leads to weirder growth than calcium deficiency)?

97
Which soil pH meter did you get KarenRei? Been looking to get one myself.

Bluelab.  Not cheap, but based on my experience so far, 100% worth it.  You'll need a meter with soil probe, and a bottle of storage solution, pH 4 calibration solution, and pH 7 calibration solution.  Just keep the storage cap filled up to the line, and brush the probe tip with a toothbrush when you're done for the day before you cap it.  I had to consult their tech support at one point (long story short, I wasn't brushing the probe tip  ;)  ), and got a quick response, and they even offered to send me a replacement probe at no cost if their advice didn't work.   It of course did work.  :)  The probe holds calibration well (I periodically test with calibration solution just to make sure - there's virtually no drift) and gets consistent readings within a given pot.

My first time around testing all of my pots, there were some plants whose readings got a real "Holy heck, no wonder I've been getting those symptoms!" reaction out of me  ;)  I had two pots test in with a pH under 4!  I mean, fine if you're growing rooibos, but otherwise...  ;)  (that was BTW the result of me acidifying the soil based on bad readings from a junk pH meter  :Þ  )

I just wish it was this easy to test for specific nutrients  ;)  Over the years I've come to realize a risk to growing plants in pots that never go outside: nutrient accumulation.  Plants use nutrients unevenly, and if the soil never gets washed through, you can have some build up to dangerous levels (yes, this has killed plants for me  :(  ).  I now make it a policy to regularly "wash through" the soil in my pots - akin to a person growing plants hydroponically changing out their solution at regular intervals. This isn't something that would ever affect people growing plants outside since rains regularly wash through pots.


98
Have you checked your soil pH?  It's easy enough to acidify soil if you need to. Sulfuric acid (often sold as drain cleaner) is the fastest, albeit harshest way.  Sulfur is the slowest (up to a year), but gentlest way.  In either case, it doesn't take much.

(I got my first *quality* soil pH meter recently, and it's like having my eyes opened, when I was stumbling around blind before trying to guess what was needed or relying on cheapo meters that led me to harm my plants as much as they led me to help them.  Too bad there's no affordable, quality meters for macro and micronutrients!)

99
You could booby trap some random fruit, just making sure that you know which ones they are.  ;)  I mean, a really evil person could literally poison them, but you could always go with something more mild, like a healthy injection of capsaicin oil  ;)

100
New IR map:

https://volcanoes.usgs.gov/observatories/hvo/maps_uploads/image-488.jpg
https://volcanoes.usgs.gov/observatories/hvo/maps_uploads/image-490.jpg

The Kapoho entry point has moved even further south.  On one hand, it's great that the area it's flowing over doesn't have much there.  On the other hand, I don't like how resistant it's being to go straight to the sea, as if it's built up somewhat of a barrier for itself. Kind of worries me that if it builds up too much resistance on the southern front, it might choose to flow into the remaining houses on the north side of Kapoho  :Þ

No change - neither improvement or worsening - in the health of the flow at the northern branch of the first fork. The partial obstruction that first appeared in the last IR image is still visible.

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