Is there a way to prevent suckers after cutting down a tree?

[xshen]

I want to remove a tree without it sending out suckers constantly.  Is there a way to kill a tree first before cutting it down?  I got 2 liquid ambers that needs to go and I want to replace them with two longans but I don't want to deal with suckers!  Any ideas?

[fruitlovers]

Standard practice is to cut the tree, make a notch in the cut trunk, and use some herbicide. You could also drill the tree and inject herbicide before cutting it. I've heard also pounding some copper nails into the tree will kill it, but have never tried that.

[maui guy]

copper nails have not worked for me . using roundup in a hole or on top of stump & covering w/baggie[ or trash bag] has given excellent results
good luck
rich

[xshen]

What about for trees that have an extensive root system.  Would suckers sprout randomly even after applying herbicide on the main trunk?  I just don't want a never ending battle against root suckers.

[CTMIAMI]

The herbicide on the stump works but beware if you have similar species in close proximity because it will kill the tree adjacent to it. How do I know that? I killed two trees last year. We don't realize how active the root system is and how much that herbicide will travel.

[FlyingFoxFruits]

I'm wondering if you can cut it to a stump and the cover it with a plastic sheet to solarize (cook) the tree?

[maui guy]

roundup has the advantage of being trans-located & thus gets the roots . on maui the african tulip tree is every where . if u cut it down the stump will sprout the the cut pieces will root !!  If the stump is only partially removed the remaining roots will make new trees; it is unstoppable unless we use roundup .
we will soon be the african tulip isle instead of the valley isle.
THE TREE FROM HELL!!! 

[jcaldeira]

I've had good success with glyphosate (Round-up) mixed 50:50 with water and sprayed on the cambium layer of the freshly cut stump.  By glyphosate I mean the full-strength stuff - not the weak pre-mixed stuff sold in spray bottles.  It needs to be a lot stronger than the dosage commonly used for weeds.

No need to drill holes if a strong mixed is applied.  I've cleared several acres of trees with this method.

John 

[maui guy]

yea 50:50is good but we drill hole in standing trees that if cut could cause major damage. this was the tree defoliates & as the branches whither , they fall harmlessly [ most the weight have been removed]

[cuban007]

http://www.amazon.com/Grow-More-7421-1-Pound-Remover/dp/B004G1CTZS

This stuff works well.

[HIfarm]

If I recall correctly. I think I've been using Crossbow herbicide with more or less good success.  Use it 100% and paint it on the stump right after you cut.  It generally stops suckers from the stump but you may still have a few coming from the roots.  I have also tried it mixed with diesel and sprayed to the exterior at the base of the tree before cutting.  You have to completely encircle the tree and probably cover about a 1' strip around the tree.  It killed most of the trees I applied it to but took quite a while to kill them -- months for some.  A few have started to recover, I guess I should have hit them again but I thought there were going to die like the others.  These were not just very small saplings, but some in the 12+" range.  We have a variety of weeds here -- guava, albizia, etc.  that can be tough to kill.

Back on the mainland, I would sometimes be plagued with oaks suckering.  I had good success with taking a wood bit and drilling a few holes in the stump and pouring bleach in the holes.  Those stumps never suckered.  I haven't tried this yet with tropical trees but I am not optimistic as tropical trees seem a lot more tenacious.

John

[fruitlovers]

Most standing trees can be killed simply by girdling them: removing large section of trunk cambium all the way around. We do this here to albizias. Haven't tried it on african tulip tree but i think it would work just as well. Definitely would work on longan if you don't want to use herbicide.

[xshen]

I've had good success with glyphosate (Round-up) mixed 50:50 with water and sprayed on the cambium layer of the freshly cut stump.  By glyphosate I mean the full-strength stuff - not the weak pre-mixed stuff sold in spray bottles.  It needs to be a lot stronger than the dosage commonly used for weeds.

No need to drill holes if a strong mixed is applied.  I've cleared several acres of trees with this method.

John

John, do you know where I can get some of this full strength glyphosate?  http://www.amazon.com/Compare-N-Save-Concentrate-41-Percent-Glyphosate-32-Ounce/dp/B00ARKS23A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384402349&sr=8-1&keywords=glyphosate  is this the weed killer you're talking about?

There is a sago palm, some rose bushes, and other small bushes within 10 feet of the tree I want to bring down.  All these plants belong to my neighbor.  How would glyphosate affect the surrounding vegetation?  Is it only targeting certain types of plants?

[maui guy]

Oscar; try it & let us know, as we would save big $ if it worked

[fruitlovers]

Oscar; try it & let us know, as we would save big $ if it worked

African tulip not such a big problem where i'm at as i've already long ago cleared them. You seem to have many more around, so you try it. I'm pretty sure it will work if you do it right. Works on most trees.

[maui guy]

thanks;  Oscar, many around here have done everything /// roundup works [ we stick with a winner]

[BMc]

Any glypho 360 will work fine. Sometimes the trees still live on and sucker from roots, but not such a big deal if you stomp them off at ground level and paint the root stem. Blackberry killer works fine too. They shouldn't kill surrounding plants unless you are very messy, or the roots are in the growing parts of the roots of the targeted species. So parasitic plants would obviously be killed and any others that adventitiously root into other plants roots.

African tulips sucker like mad, so I'm not sure how well girdling would work? I know it's not very successful on Chinese elm, which is it's only contemporary round these parts.

[fruitlovers]

thanks;  Oscar, many around here have done everything /// roundup works [ we stick with a winner]

For really tough trees can combine tactics: girdle first and then spray the girdled area with a bit of herbicide. If you're good with a machete you can girdle a large tree very fast.

[Recher]

I have killed countless trees incl big ones

1) cut tree down and immediately pour glyphosate in a circle on the cambium layer

2) If do not want to cut down tree but want to kill it. Have a 'drip' bottle of glyphosate on hand. Chainsaw a long groove and immediately follow a pour on with glyphosate. Repeat this encircling tree. Also saw into exposed root and pour. Takes me about five minutes to do a damn big multi trunkee=d camphor... note with multi trunks NO need to encircle every major limb

[Dangermouse01]

do you know where I can get some of this full strength glyphosate?  http://www.amazon.com/Compare-N-Save-Concentrate-41-Percent-Glyphosate-32-Ounce/dp/B00ARKS23A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384402349&sr=8-1&keywords=glyphosate  is this the weed killer you're talking about?

Walmart's version of Round-up is called Eliminator, I get their 41% glyphospate concentrate, probably the same stuff in your link.

DM

[EvilFruit]

Any corrosive substance will do the trick especially Potassium Nitrate which has been used as a stump remover (you need to drill a hole). Even sulfuric acid should be fine too.

Spectracide Stump Remover (contains Potassium Nitrate)
http://www.amazon.com/Spectracide-66420-Remover-1-Pound-Granules/dp/B004GVYXKC/ref=pd_sim_lg_1

[jcaldeira]

I've had good success with glyphosate (Round-up) mixed 50:50 with water and sprayed on the cambium layer of the freshly cut stump.  By glyphosate I mean the full-strength stuff - not the weak pre-mixed stuff sold in spray bottles.  It needs to be a lot stronger than the dosage commonly used for weeds.

No need to drill holes if a strong mixed is applied.  I've cleared several acres of trees with this method.

John

John, do you know where I can get some of this full strength glyphosate?  http://www.amazon.com/Compare-N-Save-Concentrate-41-Percent-Glyphosate-32-Ounce/dp/B00ARKS23A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384402349&sr=8-1&keywords=glyphosate  is this the weed killer you're talking about?

Yes, that appears to be similar to the product I use.  I see that Recher also uses a similar method.

There is a sago palm, some rose bushes, and other small bushes within 10 feet of the tree I want to bring down.  All these plants belong to my neighbor.  How would glyphosate affect the surrounding vegetation?  Is it only targeting certain types of plants?

It won't damage surrounding vegetation at all unless it is sprayed/poured directly onto it.  It is non-selective, though, so be very careful that spray does not land on any plants you want to keep alive.

[boukmn]

My experience in killing two Brazilian pepper trees (very hard to kill) w/o herbicides sometimes is easier once the tree produces side shoots on the stump. 

• Cut the tree as close to the ground as possible.
• Use a shovel to chip off as much of the stump's remaining bark as possible (this actually prevents the formation of recovery side shoots).
• If the tree still manages to put up some suckers, scrape them off along with their the remaining bark they were growing from.  The tree will not have the energy left to put up another sucker.

This procedure will kill any tree w/o herbicides.  Trust me, I know what its like to have to deal with recurring suckers.  That is the malignant nature of Brazilian pepper.  However, if you do a thorough job of scraping most of the remaining stump bark off, it is near impossible for most trees to produce suckers.

[HIfarm]

I am sure that the method you mention is effective in stopping suckers from the stump but some trees we have here will sucker from the roots.  If you have the time & inclination, you might finally be able to get them to stop suckering by constantly whacking off the new sprouts as they emerge but a chemical agent can sure be helpful, especially if you are dealing with any significant sized piece of property.  There is an enormous amount of stored energy in the roots of a big tree and they will continue to sucker for a while.  It is further complicated if you do not whack off the sprouts immediately as it starts to photosynthesize and pump more energy back into the large root mass.

John

My experience in killing two Brazilian pepper trees (very hard to kill) w/o herbicides sometimes is easier once the tree produces side shoots on the stump. 

• Cut the tree as close to the ground as possible.
• Use a shovel to chip off as much of the stump's remaining bark as possible (this actually prevents the formation of recovery side shoots).
• If the tree still manages to put up some suckers, scrape them off along with their the remaining bark they were growing from.  The tree will not have the energy left to put up another sucker.

This procedure will kill any tree w/o herbicides.  Trust me, I know what its like to have to deal with recurring suckers.  That is the malignant nature of Brazilian pepper.  However, if you do a thorough job of scraping most of the remaining stump bark off, it is near impossible for most trees to produce suckers.

[xshen]

Thanks for all the input guys.

The liquid ambers are deciduous trees.  To optimize the results on the herbicide, what season should I apply?  Would it be more effective when the tree is actively growing in the spring/summer with the sap moving?


Also, has anyone try to girdle the tree then apply a heavy dose of pure KN03/potassium nitrate to the girdled area to try to burn and kill the tree?  I was thinking about doing this before starting this thread.  I prefer not to use herbicide that may cause damage to surrounding plants if I don't have to.