Author Topic: sprinklers and anthracnose  (Read 3860 times)

jc

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sprinklers and anthracnose
« on: October 23, 2012, 07:33:30 AM »
Greetings All,

I planted several 3 gal mangos and avacados in the yard this year, late summer.  All the plants look like they are doing fine and my rosigold has even chosen to flush.  Since it has begun to flush, I've noticed the lawn sprinklers leave the new growth wet and anthracnose begins to develop.   I do spray copper, but if I spray in the am the new growth from that day is unprotected when the sprinklers come on. If I spray in the pm the copper solution doesn't really dry before the sprinklers come on and gets washed off.  I can't adjust the sprinklers trajectory to avoid soaking the new leaves, my trees are currently too short.  My sprinklers are on a well and they come on in the pre dawn morning.  I've since shut down the sprinklers until I can figure out a remedy.  The sandy soil dries out easily so without regular sprinkling the greasy browns quickly.

My paradox is how do I avoid killing the lawn and keep the new growth fungus free?  Any suggestions or similar experiences?



JC

bsbullie

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Re: sprinklers and anthracnose
« Reply #1 on: October 23, 2012, 07:48:27 AM »
How often (days per week) are your sprinklers coming on?

Are you sure its anthracnose?  Is it just your Rosi or is it affecting all mangoes?

Are you using a sticker, or at least a little dishsoap in your sprayer when applying the copper?

Most nurseries do overhead irrigation and more often than a homeowner's irrigation should be coming on.
- Rob

jc

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Re: sprinklers and anthracnose
« Reply #2 on: October 23, 2012, 08:13:56 AM »
I have the sprinklers set to start at 11pm every night, 6, 30 minute, overlapping zones. 

I think its anthracnose.  This is the affected section on the Rosi.  The new, non sprinkled growth doesn't have any malformations.  None of the other mangos in the ground have flushed since planting.

I'm using the Southern Ag copper fungicide. Nothing else added.





JC

OrganicJim

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Re: sprinklers and anthracnose
« Reply #3 on: October 23, 2012, 09:02:54 AM »
You are watering to much. The reason your grass turns brown os quickly is youi are keeping its roots to shallow. Best practices in sandy areas in Florida is 20 to 30 minutes twice a week. This gets the water deep to where the grass roots will go down. Also, it is best during our rainy season to have the sprinkler system skip days where we get a lot of rain.
I would also look at going to organic nutrient sprays to cure the problem you describe.

phantomcrab

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Re: sprinklers and anthracnose
« Reply #4 on: October 23, 2012, 09:04:51 AM »
Quote
I have the sprinklers set to start at 11pm every night, 6, 30 minute, overlapping zones. 
Sprinkling at night leaves the foliage wet all night unless it is dried by the wind. Try watering in the AM so your plants can dry off more quickly.
Richard

Patrick

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Re: sprinklers and anthracnose
« Reply #5 on: October 23, 2012, 09:08:33 AM »
Quote
I have the sprinklers set to start at 11pm every night, 6, 30 minute, overlapping zones. 
Sprinkling at night leaves the foliage wet all night unless it is dried by the wind. Try watering in the AM so your plants can dry off more quickly.

Thats the way I water.  I start at about 5am and finish by 7:30am.  You can also help avoid a few lawn fungus issues that way too!
« Last Edit: October 23, 2012, 09:31:57 AM by pj1881 (Patrick) »

natsgarden123

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Re: sprinklers and anthracnose
« Reply #6 on: October 23, 2012, 10:36:54 AM »
Do you really have to water that much?  I  don't water very often except for during very dry periods or with recently planted trees.  I don't water mango trees,especially,  after the first year, very often at all.  They do just fine.

Patrick

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Re: sprinklers and anthracnose
« Reply #7 on: October 23, 2012, 11:00:53 AM »
Do you really have to water that much?  I  don't water very often except for during very dry periods or with recently planted trees.  I don't water mango trees,especially,  after the first year, very often at all.  They do just fine.

I water twice a week, 28 minutes per zone.. If it gets really dry during the hot summer months I add one more day.  Watering less frequently makes the grass grow better roots as long as you get the water down a inch or so into the ground.

jc

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Re: sprinklers and anthracnose
« Reply #8 on: October 23, 2012, 11:45:13 AM »
For clarification, I'm not trying to water the trees daily.  The sprinklers are for the lawn and ornamentals.  The trees are watered manually as necessary. 

My property is much higher elevation than the average FL location.  Imagine 25' sand dunes, that's my area. Summer rains keep the lawn wet enough to stay green, but fall through spring requires much more water, especially when the weather is warm.  Even with nightly sprinkling the all the lawns in the area tend to brown during the dry seasons.  Five feet below grade the sand is bone dry.   

The sprinkler is on the same well as the rest of the house.   Thus, morning sprinklers and a household of showers and prepping for school and work translates into poor water pressure for all.   I could water from 8am till noon, but much of the water will vaporize prior to absorption and it feels like a waste. I know I really need an additional well and pump and I can water in the early daylight hours and still have house pressure, but that's not financially feasible at the moment. 
JC

Patrick

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Re: sprinklers and anthracnose
« Reply #9 on: October 23, 2012, 12:13:56 PM »
Im nearly in the same boat soil wise.  After about ten inches my ground is all sugar sand.  By maintaining a regular watering schedule for my whole yard and applying mulch to the root areas of my trees I am able to capture shorter periods of rain.

phantomcrab

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Re: sprinklers and anthracnose
« Reply #10 on: October 23, 2012, 02:21:28 PM »
Quote
I'm nearly in the same boat soil wise.  After about ten inches my ground is all sugar sand.  By maintaining a regular watering schedule for my whole yard and applying mulch to the root areas of my trees I am able to capture shorter periods of rain.
Same here. I am 55 feet above sea level with sand "soil" so mulch and hand watering are the name of the game. The water table is 12-15 feet deep in this area, judging from the surrounding lake levels. Fortunately, mangos don't object to dry conditions during the winter. I probably will not do any more watering until Spring.
« Last Edit: October 23, 2012, 02:40:30 PM by phantomcrab »
Richard

zands

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Re: sprinklers and anthracnose
« Reply #11 on: October 23, 2012, 08:20:52 PM »
Greetings All,

I planted several 3 gal mangos and avacados in the yard this year, late summer.  All the plants look like they are doing fine and my rosigold has even chosen to flush.  Since it has begun to flush, I've noticed the lawn sprinklers leave the new growth wet and anthracnose begins to develop.   I do spray copper, but if I spray in the am the new growth from that day is unprotected when the sprinklers come on. If I spray in the pm the copper solution doesn't really dry before the sprinklers come on and gets washed off.  I can't adjust the sprinklers trajectory to avoid soaking the new leaves, my trees are currently too short.  My sprinklers are on a well and they come on in the pre dawn morning.  I've since shut down the sprinklers until I can figure out a remedy.  The sandy soil dries out easily so without regular sprinkling the greasy browns quickly.

My paradox is how do I avoid killing the lawn and keep the new growth fungus free?  Any suggestions or similar experiences?


I was watering my figs a lot and they got brown rust on them, on the leaves. Then I read I should only water them at the roots. No rust since I stopped. Rain hits them but maybe rain is more fig friendly...I guess so. Sometimes I hit younger mango trees (just at their roots) 2 or 3 times a week

jc

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Re: sprinklers and anthracnose
« Reply #12 on: October 23, 2012, 08:49:37 PM »
Zands,
Agreed, I only water the mangos and other trees at the roots. 
JC