The Tropical Fruit Forum

Quote from: Jabba The Hutt on April 29, 2020, 08:03:14 AM

Quote from: pineislander on April 29, 2020, 07:16:17 AM

These run a little more than a trickle, but not a spray. My system runs about 10 psi across 2-1/2 acres. I will test the flow but mainly wanted to show that there is a DIY method with lowest possible price. I see rainbird emitters costing $4 ea the small tubing costs 10 cents/foot.

Just clarifying, the flexible tubing is ~ 1/4" diameter? What would you say the diameter of the large tubing is?

1 inch its the big tube.
I am using 3/4 inch main line tubings and cut off pieces of the 3/4" for the diffusers. Yes, Outside diameter of the small flex tube is approx 1/4". Come by and I can show you and direct you to the local sellers out near Labelle.
In Europe we use cm and SI promoted by Napoleon,but all the pipes we still measure in inches   .

I have used about 200 so far. Some I installed last year to feed some annual crops like pumpkin and Xanthosoma and even perennials like coffee and Monstera in amongst my main irrigation system. My mainsystem I have been using microspinner sprinklers which can wet up to 10 feet diameter, but they cost about $2-3 per emitter. These are less than $1 each, just the cost of tubing the rest is just labor. With virtually any emitter there is a tube, this eliminates all other costs since the only cost expense is tubing.

Some may have seen this already especially at nursery outlets which is where I saw it first. The method is especially good for recently planted trees it may not be enough for mature trees.
The method uses small diameter flexible tubing approx 1/4 inch (~6 mm) and pieces of irrigation tubing to diffuse the water exiting the small tubing.
First cut pieces of the small tubing to the desired length, make angled cuts on each end, I use a very sharp standard pruning shear.
Then cut 2 inch (50mm) pieces of large diameter tubing.
Using a standard punch or other tool punch a small hole in the 50 mm long pieces large diameter tubing. Using a suitable angled piece of plastic, I use an old stake emitter, ream out the small hole by stretching it but not cutting into the plastic.
One the hole is enlarged, work the angle cut end of the small tubing into the diffuser piece. The plastic will stretch and then tighten back to hold tight.
Repeat the process at the location needed along the run of the irrigation line close by the desired root zone of the plant or tree.

Hope this helps. The small tubing seldom clogs, but sometimes rats or squirrels do chew on the tubing and it needs to be replaced. I got mine in a 1000 foot roll at the irrigaton supply house.
here are some pictures:

It would depend on the size of the tree. This plant enjoys sun so if you plant it in full shade it may not thrive. I would plant  near the drip line (outer edge of foliage) a few feet from the trunk on very smaall trees. I see he is shipping the stoloniferous 'Golden Glory' variety. That one enjoys grwing on mulch and once it gets growing you can semi-annually spinkle more mulch on top leaving some green peeking through. This helps the stolons get rooted down better. The stoloniferous type doesn't fix as much nitrogen as the rhizomal and can benefit from fertilizer.

Thank you for the answers.  I ll look for this kind of bags. The appropriate size for guavas is 6x9 inches?

Yes that size was very good even for large fruit of the pink soft type. White crisp guava well grown may be too large.
Be aware guava can set two fruit in a cluster fashion. Reduce down to one fruit/bag if you bag two fruit in one of these bags you may not be able to remove the fruit through the opening. I found it best to install the bags when fruit is halfway grown. Putting the bag on very early seemed to contribute to fruit drop.

I add compost to the base of my dragonfruit every season. The root zone goes out 3 feet or so so no need to bury the stem and they seem to love it.

Just be sure it is bean or peas soup for more nitrogen. If you pull the weeds there won't be much danger from the weed whacker.

Getting me a stihl 450 duster / mistblower for the inaccessible spots.What do you think?mist blowers are very efficient!

I have an older mistblower the weight of that tank especially up high is a real backbreaker. I have to ease into mine by backing into it while it is on a table. They do lift leaves up well into a large tree. I see the stihl 450 is 28 pounds without 14 liter tank and water weighs 2 pounds/liter, woops 28+28= 56 pounds! Pretty much the same as my Solo 423 better eat planty of oatmeal for breakfast, it will eat your lunch for you.

Soil and foliar chemicals in gaseous and liquid form, even smoke can also induce and control bloom, perhaps certain varieties more than others. Age of stem and leaf plays a part. Google mango bloom stimulus initiation and you can see research around the world on this.
Like:
http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?script=sci_arttext&pid=S1677-04202007000400007

It is a tree which at first feeds from storede energy in the seed. Eventually that energy will run out. The pot is becoming too small, time to move up to 10 liter pot with nutrients and show it some heat this summer.

In ground the base of stem can get s thick as your arm and produce many hundreds of fruit. Why plant in a pot?

Seawalnut I enjoy a good argument with you but hope your recovery goes well. I admire folks like this from Romania.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ek2KO8hQ78c