The Tropical Fruit Forum
Tropical Fruit => Tropical Fruit Discussion => Topic started by: Samu on April 03, 2018, 10:31:38 PM
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(https://i.imgur.com/XkrQ31ql.jpg)
It's labeled as NDM, I bought from a local SoCal nursery. In the ground for about 3 years, never bloom, and had lanky/droopy branches that I had since prune them hard.
I am wondering if it's worth growing and saving this tree, if so, how? Thanks for your advice!
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Sam,
There is generally nothing you can do to repair that. You shouldn't fill it with anything nor paint it. I don't think chiseling the bark (to encourage callous) will help since the gap and depth are quite wide.
I'm less forgiving...so I would replant with a new variety better than NDM#4.
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That looks really bad. I would use it for scions and plant a new tree. The huge crack is at ground level and will be exposed to moisture and insects.
Simon
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So, that's it for this tree, I will replace it with a Manila seedling that I currently have,
or I would just bury a manila seed in its place...
Thanks again, Warren and Simon for your advice, I highly appreciate your opinions!
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maybe for experiment, try stucco patching it?
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Since you are on the verge of giving up on this tree......
As a last ditch effort. I would try packing moist clay into this large gap and crack. I would buy clay from a crafts store that is used for making pottery. You want this level of moisture in your clay. Loosely wrap trunk + clay with plastic, but guard against rot. Clay can do many interesting things and maybe it will help this gap get bridged and heal.
If you don't want to buy clay then dig some clay soil from your yard if you have it.
Trees do amazing things. We have all seen tree limbs that have grown into cyclone fences. I saw a tree that grew right into, up and over a one inch iron bar. I must take a photo of it. The bar is right in the middle of a five inch diameter trunk of a common landscaping tree, about two ft up from the ground. It must have been a support that was forgotten about.
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What direction does the crack face Samu? I have a smaller FL tree forming a crack. Its facing SW (afternoon sun). It may also be the side water hits from irrigation. Could be one or both things causing a problem. I noticed the trees seem to droop when its cold and the bark burns and cracks in the extreme summer heat.
Heres the cracks forming on one of my FL trees
(https://s17.postimg.cc/mq9ucqbhn/20180404_120916.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/mq9ucqbhn/)
This FL got sunburn on the S facing side. Branches died off on the S side now its a 1 sided tree. Looks so bad, not sure these trees will improve. I may try white latex paint on the bark.
(https://s17.postimg.cc/kzqtayz0r/20180404_121037.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/kzqtayz0r/)
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maybe for experiment, try stucco patching it?
Stucco patch!? Haha dont do that its full of cement. Surely cant be good for a tree.
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I would just leave it alone. It might recover.
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Right. Just leave it. It could be sunburn, especially seeing as how you mentioned that you pruned it pretty hard. Whenever you hard prune a mango tree, you need to shade any of the older bark that is newly exposed to sun.
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Right. Just leave it. It could be sunburn, especially seeing as how you mentioned that you pruned it pretty hard. Whenever you hard prune a mango tree, you need to shade any of the older bark that is newly exposed to sun.
Do people use latex paint in mango trees? Its pretty popular for stone fruit and avocado here in CA. Not sure if its ok on mangos?
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Hi guys (gals included),
Thanks for all your suggestions. The crack is facing West; but it’s got some shade from tall Podocarpus trees and kids’ playpen nearby, so it doesn’t get full Western sun in the afternoon.
I used drip mini sprayer on watering this tree, before I converted to “Dripline” just a couple of months ago. I don’t think the spray water touched the trunk when it was on. Btw, the tree trunk at the bottom looked normal back in January this year; the NDM is on the Right: (before I pruned it only 2 weeks ago)
(https://i.imgur.com/5DKX4hgl.jpg)
Ok then, I am keeping an eye on this tree for some time longer, while my replacement (if needed) seedling in pot needs to grow bigger anyway…
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It probably is, just looks a little ugly. I typically just use the branches which were pruned as shade.
Right. Just leave it. It could be sunburn, especially seeing as how you mentioned that you pruned it pretty hard. Whenever you hard prune a mango tree, you need to shade any of the older bark that is newly exposed to sun.
Do people use latex paint in mango trees? Its pretty popular for stone fruit and avocado here in CA. Not sure if its ok on mangos?
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OK. Usually sunburn takes a few months to fully develop. Maybe you have some sort of fungal infection going then.
Hi guys (gals included),
Thanks for all your suggestions. The crack is facing West; but it’s got some shade from tall Podocarpus trees and kids’ playpen nearby, so it doesn’t get full Western sun in the afternoon.
I used drip mini sprayer on watering this tree, before I converted to “Dripline” just a couple of months ago. I don’t think the spray water touched the trunk when it was on. Btw, the tree trunk at the bottom looked normal back in January this year; the NDM is on the Right: (before I pruned it only 2 weeks ago)
(https://i.imgur.com/5DKX4hgl.jpg)
Ok then, I am keeping an eye on this tree for some time longer, while my replacement (if needed) seedling in pot needs to grow bigger anyway…
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It probably is, just looks a little ugly. I typically just use the branches which were pruned as shade.
Right. Just leave it. It could be sunburn, especially seeing as how you mentioned that you pruned it pretty hard. Whenever you hard prune a mango tree, you need to shade any of the older bark that is newly exposed to sun.
Do people use latex paint in mango trees? Its pretty popular for stone fruit and avocado here in CA. Not sure if its ok on mangos?
I really dont care how it looks. White trunk is better than a dead tree. I need to do a lot of my trees before they get cooked.
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Try applying Bordeaux mixture paste. It's may help to protect from fungus, mold, pest and sun. The mixture is prepared by taking lime (CaO), Copper sulphate(CuSO4) and water .
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Found this video. Its geared towards stone fruit but I am going to do this on all my stone fruit, avocado and mango trees this year. Any south/SW exposed trunks are getting 50/50 INTERIOR flat whitet latex water based paint. Just an FYI if you want to try Samu.
https://youtu.be/3qJtVd2k_lI (https://youtu.be/3qJtVd2k_lI)
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Yes Brad, I am familiar with painting the tree trunk with water based latex paint; in the past I used it on my Plumeria trees that had sunburn trunk. I also currently have Holiday avocado with such paint on it's exposed trunk; and that seems to help.
I just never suspected that this crack was caused by sunburn, but on second thought, I think it is probable. So, yes, tomorrow I'll find that light interior latex paint, put my dirty clothes on, and start painting the exposed tree trunks...
Thank you, Brad for pointing this, and sharing that YouTube link!
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Found this video. Its geared towards stone fruit but I am going to do this on all my stone fruit, avocado and mango trees this year. Any south/SW exposed trunks are getting 50/50 INTERIOR flat whitet latex water based paint. Just an FYI if you want to try Samu.
https://youtu.be/3qJtVd2k_lI (https://youtu.be/3qJtVd2k_lI)
Informative and logical solution for sunburn and cracks in fruit tree trunks. Only interior latex because exterior latex paint usually / might have fungicide added.
I think the paint might also seal in some tree moisture in a good way....that helps the crack area to heal. It cannot heal when the sun is beating down on it each day thus evaporating out moisture.
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Before trashing it you can try bridge grafting it. It's a technique to repair this kind of damage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11XKqzI_-PM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11XKqzI_-PM)
Problem is yours start almost at the base, so it can be difficult. You could try doing it diagonally.
Another two possible solutions:
1-Plant a seed to the base and inarch graft the trunk above the damage.
2-Do something like the above but graft the lower end to one big wooden root like this:
(http://bonsai4me.com/Images/ATApproachGrafting/acer%20palmatum%20bonsai%20root%20graft1%20update.jpg)
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Ok guys, upon scraping off the wound, even though about 1/3 of the trunk's diameter is gone, the inside looks like "normal" healthy tissue to me, or is it?:
(https://i.imgur.com/kDpZ87pl.jpg)
Painted now:
(https://i.imgur.com/isG51HIl.jpg)
So we shall see what happen. By the way, I also planted seeds nearby with inarching in mind, but so far nothing sprouted...Thanks again, guys!
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I wonder if there might be something more happening there. Notice those little black specs, they look like insect boring holes. Not full sure what's happening, but give it some time and see how it progresses.
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I painted my Maha Chanok tree trunk with latex paint about two months ago. I think it's recovering or at least it's not dead.
(https://s14.postimg.cc/k49klkyr1/IMG_1575_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/k49klkyr1/)
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Yeah Jeff, those specs, not sure about those myself. I probably could get all those little dark spots removed, but I am afraid more healthy trunk material will be lost as well...; didn't see any
insect though. (with my bare eyes...).
By the way, I see Carlos had some bark damage too in his Avocado grove due to sunburn:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_3a1Jo-WPw&t=33s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_3a1Jo-WPw&t=33s)
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That is an interesting product. For some reason Carlos didn't return for a look later, but in this previous video he shows the results 9 months later.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMKvUjLrNqk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMKvUjLrNqk)
This is the product. I see the makers show several examples of how it worked, but it would have been nice to see a "control" untreated tree to compare with.
http://www.treebandage.com/ (http://www.treebandage.com/)
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Carlos is not shy with that hatchet :)
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i painted my maHaChinok with copper fungicide.
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I bought a gallon of whitewash ceiling paint and painted all my stone fruit, mangos, and exposed avocado branches the other day. Mixed it 1:2 paint to water and put in a spray bottle and sprayed on. Worked great.
(https://s31.postimg.cc/6j9ixggrr/20180407_190055.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6j9ixggrr/)
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Matched nicely with your white PVC pipes, Brad...!
I see you got ample spacing and plenty of mulching on your trees,
I imagine you could set up a fruit stand in the next year or so... ;D
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Matched nicely with your white PVC pipes, Brad...!
I see you got ample spacing and plenty of mulching on your trees,
I imagine you could set up a fruit stand in the next year or so... ;D
All the trees are on 20x20' spacing.
Yeah thats the plan to hit the farmers markets and maybe online sales for harder fruits like avocado and cherimoya. I quit my engineering job to pursue this while also raising my 2 kids and running another motorcycle business. Im a busy guy.
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Always use fertiilizers that contain Copper, and occasionally spray the tree with Copper. One of the functions of Copper is to lignify trunk and branches (and presumably bark). Branches will be less likely to be lanky or droopy.
I have also heard a claim that bark splitting can be a sign of Copper deficiency. I don't know that at all for sure, but one Carrie mango, with multiple deep wide splits showing the wood, healed up quickly after I sprayed it several times with Liquid Copper.
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The only copper it receives is when I fertilize the trees with whatever is in Osmocote Plus: its copper content is .05 %.
Maybe this is not enough? Ok, is Southern Ag Liquid Copper Fungicide like this ok to use, or if I should get something else?:
(https://i.imgur.com/e1Wn21im.jpg)
Thanks a lot for your advice, Har!
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That is the product that I used.