What are the best methods of taking care of citrus so they are healthy?

[cotter pin]

  What is the best ferritization water schedule for citrus in SW Florida zone 9B? How much and how often and what type of fertilizers are you  using? What has been your best method for dealing with leaf miners? How often do you water them?

[brian]

I imagine that in FL one of your primary concerns is HLB virus.  Other than that, though, the usual recommendation of 5:1:3 ratio fertilizer and the "moist but free draining" soil that every plant desires is a good bet, but for FL-specific climate I can't give much advice!

[Calusa]

Leaf miners? I don't bother trying to control them.

I use Sunniland Citrus granular you can get at Home Depot and other locations. 6-4-6 with micro's, every other month. Keep in mind that granulars get washed down really good with a good rain, which can drive the nutrients past the roots before they can use it. So if it's a heavy rain season you may want to replenish every month. On my small trees (1st year or two), about 1 cup per application. I use 2 cups when the trees are 3 years old or older. I also use this same fertilizer on my mangoes and bananas.





I also use a quality Peters water soluble with micro's as a foliar spray a few times per year, and as an occasional drench.
From Amazon.

[1rainman]

They only need watered the first month or two of being planted and in the dry season when it's drought like conditions. But they need some good soil mixed in with the sand so it holds some water and nutrients. Such as dig a big hole and add good soil when planting or add top soil on top because pure sand will stunt the growth of most plants because it won't hold water at all. If it's sand you can water every day and it will be dry the next day.

[cotter pin]

  Thank you for the responses, maybe I will just ignore the leaf miners, from what I understand is that it is just aesthetic and does no long term damage. I wonder is moringa leaf extract sprayed on leaves will work?(we have plenty on the property) I have just recently heard of using it as a pest deterrent with no negative long term effects. I need to fertilize more often, I have only been doing it every three months, I will try every other month. All of our citrus trees are on raised berms that are about 50+' long, with a nice top dressing of composted organic matter, we had a dump truck full delivered to top dress the berms with decomposed wood  chips for a cover, all wood chips are away from the trunks.
 

[Calusa]

  Thank you for the responses, maybe I will just ignore the leaf miners, from what I understand is that it is just aesthetic and does no long term damage. I wonder is moringa leaf extract sprayed on leaves will work?(we have plenty on the property) I have just recently heard of using it as a pest deterrent with no negative long term effects. I need to fertilize more often, I have only been doing it every three months, I will try every other month. All of our citrus trees are on raised berms that are about 50+' long, with a nice top dressing of composted organic matter, we had a dump truck full delivered to top dress the berms with decomposed wood  chips for a cover, all wood chips are away from the trunks.

Excellent choice with the raised berms and the compost!
Sounds like you might be out there east of Punta Gorda around Washington Loop?

[Seanny]

I would buy low phosphate fertilizer to feed the compost.

[Tropheus76]

Just some background, I have recently picked up an adjacent plot of land which has a large section covered in oaks with some fairly decent open areas under them hidden behind an outer layer of palmetto and I didnt even have to clear it. About six months ago I planted a Ponderosa lemon in the greyish sand there. Grey sand seems to be formed in areas of current or former heavy palmetto growth and is also the reason we cant grow figs thanks to a nasty nematode infestation. On the outskirts still under the canopy, about 2 years ago, I planted a blood orange and a tangerine of some kind and mulched them with oak leaves from the neighbor. I fertilize them sporadically. So far, so good. I havent noticed even any leaf miners like I have on my other citrus elsewhere in my yard who are in full sun for the most part. Leaves on the three are much greener and the growth and bushiness is much thicker. After I move some logs and drive my mower through to knock down some of the stickers and wild grape I am going to plant a red naval orange, a Persian lime and a Centennial kumquat that is hurting in a pot I have it in now. Given the success so far, I will likely start fertilizing more often using the fertilizer listed higher in this thread and doing some fish emulsion leaf spraying which is always highly recommended for citrus.

Mostly this is to continue my experiment on the whole oak protection thing. Not sure if I will expand the citrus aspect of my grove past that point as I have other trees and such I am working on. Maybe a key lime if it looks like there is space to test the micro-climate aspect of the under-canopy.

[bussone]

Just some background, I have recently picked up an adjacent plot of land which has a large section covered in oaks with some fairly decent open areas under them hidden behind an outer layer of palmetto and I didnt even have to clear it. About six months ago I planted a Ponderosa lemon in the greyish sand there. Grey sand seems to be formed in areas of current or former heavy palmetto growth and is also the reason we cant grow figs thanks to a nasty nematode infestation. On the outskirts still under the canopy, about 2 years ago, I planted a blood orange and a tangerine of some kind and mulched them with oak leaves from the neighbor. I fertilize them sporadically. So far, so good. I havent noticed even any leaf miners like I have on my other citrus elsewhere in my yard who are in full sun for the most part. Leaves on the three are much greener and the growth and bushiness is much thicker. After I move some logs and drive my mower through to knock down some of the stickers and wild grape I am going to plant a red naval orange, a Persian lime and a Centennial kumquat that is hurting in a pot I have it in now. Given the success so far, I will likely start fertilizing more often using the fertilizer listed higher in this thread and doing some fish emulsion leaf spraying which is always highly recommended for citrus.

Mostly this is to continue my experiment on the whole oak protection thing. Not sure if I will expand the citrus aspect of my grove past that point as I have other trees and such I am working on. Maybe a key lime if it looks like there is space to test the micro-climate aspect of the under-canopy.

There is some evidence that psillids have a harder time finding citrus trees if they are mixed into some cover. Citrus, as a short-ish understory tree, doesn't mind some shade, either.

[Tropheus76]

That was the idea, plus supposedly the psillids do not like oak trees. Ill give it a bit, not using the land for anything else and once established I will only have to fertilize every so often so no real work involved although right now I am lugging 5 gallon buckets of water over there to make sure they get started well.

[cassowary]

  What is the best ferritization water schedule for citrus in SW Florida zone 9B? How much and how often and what type of fertilizers are you  using? What has been your best method for dealing with leaf miners? How often do you water them?

Doing a soil test would be the best place to start.
Correcting major minerals and soil structure will be cheaper then throwing soluble salts on frequently like some suggested. And will most likely not give you top quality fruit, high brix and insect free without pesticides.

Adding OM and clay could help you to retain any salts you put on if you got sandy soil.

Once you got the soil right some ocassional nitrate or ammonium should be enough, or just a bit och poultry manure or compost.
Lime and soft rock phosphate is slow release so cheaper long term and if you increase cation and anion retention you shouldnt have to add salts frequently.

With salts I mean soluble ferts.