Author Topic: Rooting  (Read 2161 times)

Vendor

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Rooting
« on: June 14, 2015, 09:12:38 PM »
I have not had very good luck rooting citrus. Any pointers?

fyliu

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Re: Rooting
« Reply #1 on: June 15, 2015, 12:45:37 AM »
I think citrus is not normally rooted from cuttings. I'm not sure if it's difficult to do.
Most often I hear people do T-budding on them or graft them onto another citrus tree.

mrtexas

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Re: Rooting
« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2015, 09:24:36 AM »
I have not had very good luck rooting citrus. Any pointers?

Works only very good for lemon or lime.

fyliu

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Re: Rooting
« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2015, 02:39:26 PM »
I have not had very good luck rooting citrus. Any pointers?

Works only very good for lemon or lime.
Soft wood, semi-hard, or hard wood? It would be useful for Vendor to know.

Icemankfc

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Re: Rooting
« Reply #4 on: June 15, 2015, 04:03:46 PM »
Hello everybody  :D

I am new to the forum.  This is a question another group I belong to kept asking. I made a video to explain how I root cuttings from my lime trees.  The video is sideways and upside down but I tried to show how to reduce the leaves down and just tried to share the knowledge.  I've tried lots of ways to do this and this is by far the most successful (and easiest) way I've rooted a lot of citrus cuttings.   Hope it's of some value.

https://youtu.be/f8mbKXuUe14


Millet

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Re: Rooting
« Reply #5 on: June 15, 2015, 05:59:39 PM »
A few tips on choosing a cutting for rooting. There is much more to propagation than just getting roots to grow. Conditions in the parent tree and the cutting that is taken from it influence root origin and subsequent plant growth.  It's all about energy (carbohydrates). If you start with weak cuttings that contain little energy, problems abound.  Always start only with cuttings with good energy reserves.  Propagating plants from cuttings is as much an art as science. When to take cuttings is a perpetual challenge to the propagator.  This is truly the "art" of plant propagation.  Energy levels in plant tissue typically reach a maximum in late summer or early fall, with species that only make one flush of growth the build up of energy proceeds over the entire growing season.   With species that make several flushes of growth per year, as citrus does,  the build up of energy progresses and gets higher and higher, then drops again with the next flush and so on.  This is because the energy was spent in support of the expanding bud and new growth and development of flowers and fruits. Oxygen is necessary for root respiration at all times, but oxygen plays an even more critical role in the initiation of new roots on a cutting.  For rooting of cuttings, the drainable pore space in the medium should be 45 to 50 percent.  Once the cuttings has rooted drainable pore space in the medium should be about 20 to 25 percent. The dissolved minerals in water used for misting cuttings can have a profound influence on rooting, and subsequent growth.  High sodium and high bicarbonate are the most common culprits.  The lower he mineral content of the water, the better cuttings root. The objective is to provide a thin film of water over the cuttings and high humidity in order to prevent desiccation of plant tissues that have lost the support of roots, until new roots form. In general, it has been found that there is no ideal rooting medium but several combinations of materials can provide a good, workable medium with a drainable pore space of 40 to 50 percent.  Good quality peat and coarse perlite or peat and ground pine  bark on a 1:1 or 1:1.5 basis by volume works well in propagating containers approximately 4 inches deep. it is very important that the components of the rooting medium are free of diseases and insect. Vermiculite for propagation is easily broken down and compressed and in general does not drain well. DO NOT cut corners with respect to the rooting medium, as it is false prosperity. Even with what you believe to be good Canadian peat and coarse perlite from a reputable supplier, always look at the material and do not assume. Keep the cutting between 70-F to 100-F. The open wound at the base of the cutting combined with the warm, moist environment is an ideal environment for disease organisms.   This can be further complicated when cuttings are STUCK TOO DEEP and the open wound is in the poorly drained area (perched water table) near the bottom of the container. Before taking a cutting be sue the parent plant is thoroughly watered.  Using a misting table normally gives a 80 or 90 percent success rate.  The commonly called baggie method normally has a 50% success rate.
Millet
« Last Edit: June 15, 2015, 06:07:10 PM by Millet »

Icemankfc

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Re: Rooting
« Reply #6 on: June 15, 2015, 08:04:47 PM »
Millet - that's all spot on good advice.   And it's all true  :D    The limbs I have highest success with are the growth from the prior year (the regions where good bud materials would be taken from too) and the time of year is key as well (or as your saying between the fruiting cycles).   Early early spring, just as the trees are 'waking up' is when I save pruned out limbs or make air layers and such.  Cuttings can take root but to have a really good success ratio there's a lot of factors to keep in mind.  It's like everything else about this hobby, the more you do of it the better you'll get at it too.  A friend of mine jokingly calls it  'to fail a little less each time'   ;D

Pancrazio

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Re: Rooting
« Reply #7 on: June 15, 2015, 08:20:39 PM »
Millet suggestion were very good.
I started experimenting with cuttings just last year. I usually prune my lime just before earlyspring to eliminate ruined leaves and regulate the canopy. Since, this way, i get a lot of twigs, i said "i should really try to do some cuttings". In my first year, i removed the leaves from those twigs and just stuck then in a pot and kept them in shadow and watered. One of about 12 did take.
This year, encouraged by my success, i did the same but i treated them a little better. Still removed the leaves, I used very little rooting hormone, i covered the plant with a transparent bag for the first couple of months (it was till cold at the time) and kept them humid, in the shadow. Right now they are pushing new growth. I would say that about 50% of them did take.
I also did the same with citron and results were the same.
All in all, a quick easy and convenient way to obtain new plants from parts you would otherwise throw away.
Take rates for me are comparable with grafting. But they require better starting material than grafting.
Also i doubt that every citrus would root as readily as limes and citron.
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