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Messages - HIfarm

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1
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Raulglezruiz
« on: November 14, 2018, 12:28:08 AM »
I've always had good luck with anything from Raul.

John

2
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Jackfruit Berried Treasure
« on: November 09, 2018, 04:32:46 PM »
It has been a rough year with a rainy spring and then a near miss by a hurricane that dumped about 4' of water here in a couple of days.  My berry jack has been a trooper though, blooming throughout (& still blooming now).  It is carrying 3 fairly large (8-10") fruits now, several smaller ones (probably 5-6") and several blossoms; it is looking pretty promising that I'll have some to taste this year.  I have another berry seedling that seems to be much less vigorous (at least so far).  I also have a Ziman Pink that was a larger, grafted tree.  This berry jack has blown by that tree in growth and is carrying fruit while the Ziman has blasted all the fruit the past two years.  The bigger fruits are not the prettiest I have seen but I am hoping that will taste as good as the mother tree in Aus that Mike T was so good to send seed from.

Pics of the bigger fruits:







3
Tropical Fruit Online Library / Starting coffee from green beans
« on: November 08, 2018, 06:31:56 PM »
I noticed a posting about "rare" coffee seed being available.  I don't know if it is general knowledge but coffee can be germinated from fresh green coffee beans so you can then have access to truly topshelf varieties like gesha and others.  I have not yet tried this (I am waiting to develop some "overstory" first) so I cannot comment on the germination rate.  If you search on line, there are many articles on it, here is one:
http://www.coffeeresearch.org/coffee/homegrowing.htm

4
I have a few varieties of blackberry that have been fruiting for me here outside of Hilo at 600-700' altitude.  I decided to give them a try based upon a guy a short way down the coast (at similar altitude) that was successfully fruiting Natchez.  I'd need to check which ones are fruiting for me.  Correspondence with a prof at University of Arkansas put Natchez at 300-400 chill hours so I selected clones that were the same or less.  I see Navaho listed as 800 chill hours so I would try one with less if I were you.

John

6
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Bellucia sp. pollination
« on: October 16, 2018, 09:23:37 PM »
If any of you have ordered Bellucia grossularioides from Jim West (or other Bellucia sp for that matter), it appears that they are self-incompatible so at least a couple need to be planted.  I will enter the link to the paper in the library section.

8
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: How good does Carambola taste?
« on: October 15, 2018, 12:10:04 PM »
As others have mentioned, most do not consider this a top tier fruit (I would certainly put it under the 3 fruits you mention).  There are better varieties as some have mentioned but some are pretty bad.  To me, most seem to have a vegetal component but in the better varieties, there is enough fruity flavor & sweetness to offset this and make them more interesting.  Not a bad fruit to clear your palate after breakfast, for example, but not many people would be saying "oh boy, starfruit!" when they see one.

Another strike against this fruit is that it can be harmful to those with impaired kidney function so, if you have any kidney issues best to eat this sparingly, if at all.

John

9
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: First Fruiting of Cola Nut (Cola acuminata)
« on: September 22, 2018, 01:53:17 AM »

Tried eating the Cola acuminata arils for first time. Not only palatable but kind of sweet. Have fresh seeds available now, if anyone is interesed PM me.

Thanks for the report.  Is there any flavor profile that they remind you of?  I had heard comparisons to peas & carrots for the arils of monkey colas.


10
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Corynocarpus cribbianus
« on: September 18, 2018, 03:50:36 PM »
Anyone know anything about this fruit?  It evidently occurs in Aus, PNG, & the Solomon Islands.  Since rare fruiters like Mike T do not seem to have mentioned this (couldn't find in google search), I am assuming it is not worth attention.

John

13
Whatís the taste like?  I tried to read about it online but thereís not much information. Iím definitely interested in seeds.

Info is definitely hard to find on line.  I found the following, which isn't very helpful, on line (I have put a link to the doc in the library section):
Eugenia casearioides (HBK.) DC. Prodr. 3: 275. 1828. Myrtus
casearioides HBK. Nov. Gen. & Sp. 6: 145 [folio ed. 115]. 1823. Type
locality, "in monte Cocollar Cumanensium," i.e. on the Orinoco.
Distinctive chiefly in having the branchlets rather long-pubescent
with spreading hairs up to 0.5-0.7 mm. long. The pedicels are
short and the flowers glomerate, i.e. the axis of the raceme is very
short. The species is known chiefly from northern Venezuela, and
from one locality in Colombia (Norte de Santander).

14
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Registration of New Variety of Mango
« on: August 27, 2018, 03:52:42 PM »
I find myself really scratching my head over this string.  The original poster (N321), never mentioned patenting.  Maybe I misunderstood, but I did not get the impression he wanted to get rich off of this hypothetical mango, just wondered if there was a mechanism where it could be named at some central clearing house to avoid confusion with other mangoes.  Any sexually produced seed-grown plant is an individual clone and could conceivably be named and propagated (not saying this is always a good idea).  The notable thing about registration is that it ties a name to a seedling from a specific grower or hybridizer.  Otherwise, several people can give very different clones the same name and cause considerable confusion among growers.  A central registrar avoids this and sometimes doesn't even allow names that sound very similar to existing cultivars.

15
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Registration of New Variety of Mango
« on: August 27, 2018, 01:59:20 AM »
Registrations & patents are two very different things.  I am sure that the US Patent office is not registering fruit tree cultivars.  Registering a cultivar with the appropriate organization generally does not grant you any type of protection like a patent does.  It only registers the clonal name, the parents (if known), and the person who bred (or perhaps found?) the cultivar.  I am not sure if there is an actual registrar of mango cultivars.  Various organizations do it for various plants.  For example, the Royal Horticultural Society in the UK is the registrar for orchids as well as some other ornamental plants.

If you are interested in pursuing it, the RHS mentions the International Society for Horticultural Science here:
https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/plantsmanship/plant-registration
that might be a good starting point to find out if there is a mango registrar somewhere.

John

16
I hope your stream has finally gone away, Oscar.

Its been raining all day here since morning.  Thankfully, it is not so heavy to form a stream here today.  For the prior three days, for much of the time, I have had a stream running about 15' from my house (about 3' from my lanai), making a small pond in the backyard before it flows off into the small pali in back of my house.

Rained all night long here. Have a stream coursing through length of my whole orchard. Short pause in rain right now at 11AM. No sign of clear sky or sun here.

17
Despite being teased with a small glimpse of the sun for about 1 1/2 hrs, the rains have been back the past couple of hours.  So far, only light to moderate but still not good with all the rain we have had (I'm guessing around 40").


18
The rain finally stopped here sometime early morning, I hope it is really over now.  Seems quiet this am but still completely socked in with clouds.  Our PV system has made virtually no power the last few days -- I hope the sun pops out at some point today.

Good luck to those on neighbor islands, it sounds like parts of Maui have probably gotten hammered too, hopefully the rest of the state will be spared anything too bad.

John

19
Good for you, Oscar!  Hopefully, the worst is over for you.  We have been getting clobbered in Hilo & Hamakua -- must be easily over 20" rain now & no signs of stopping yet.  I haven't been out of the house for maybe 30 hrs now -- I am afraid to see what my road looks like (old cane road) after this -- when I was coming home yesterday afternoon, many water diversions on the road had already been breached and there was a lot of heavy rain after that.  Wind has been very low here as well.

John

20
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mango graft problem
« on: August 23, 2018, 02:53:33 PM »
Ok, I guess I was not providing enough detail.  I have been using "rootstock" as terminology to differentiate the host plant from the scion.  All of the grafts from this recent round of grafting has been on smaller branches (probably 3/8 - 3/4" diameter).  These were all relatively young branches.  The goal was a cocktail mango tree, not decapitating a tree for conversion to a new cultivar.  There was still lots of leaves present for energy (both below the graft and on adjacent, ungrafted branches) as well as lots of stored energy as these are fruiting sized mango trees with significant mass.

There was only a couple of grafts from the previous time attempted with large diameter wood (I know success rate is lower in this scenario but I was just trying to mention that the success rate was not strictly related to scion size matching the "rootstock" in my attempts).  I know of people in the area who have successfully topworked other tropicals, in some cases, where the "rootstock" was 6-8" diameter, maybe more.  But these were not mangoes.

It seemed to me to be a bad sign that the lower buds were developing into competing shoots but it seems to indicate to me that this is showing the tree is in a (very) active growth phase, which is what I assume you would want.  I'm not sure why the scions did not kick into gear & start sprouting.  Next time around, I will probably concentrate on the "grave/coffin" graft method.  This will also allow me to leave leaves above the graft, perhaps that will be more helpful.

Oh well, back to soggy hurricane Lane.  I've got a break in the torrential rain for a moment so internet was back up again (down most of yesterday).

John

21
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mango graft problem
« on: August 22, 2018, 04:03:45 PM »
Thanks for all the helpful tips, guys.  I used "rootstock" here to differentiate from the scionwood, the rootstocks are actually young trees generally in the 5-7'+ range (both seedling & grafted trees).  The only graft that took this year was one where the scion & the rootstock matched fairly closely in size but last time I grafted, the successful graft was one where I decapitated a seedling rootstock & the rootstock was ~10x greater diameter than the scion.  So, in all cases, the rootstock had plenty of energy for the scions.

I always remove competing buds breaking below the graft, at least until it is painfully obvious that the graft has not taken.

Thanks again for the help!
John

22
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mango graft problem
« on: August 21, 2018, 04:18:18 PM »
Thanks, guys.  This is for scions I have purchased from the mainland (trying to introduce new varieties here) so I am not sure about the prep before harvest.  At least a couple scions looked like they had been trimmed of leaves in advance since small buds were swelling.  The trees never really go into any sort of dormant state here, just slow a bit in the winter.  When I grafted the batch this year, I had a ton of dormant buds quickly developing and pushing vigorously below the graft so the rootstocks were definitely doing their jobs.

Virtually every graft develops condensation under the buddy tape, this is why I was a bit concerned about this.  I am not sure about this year, but last year I am pretty sure that I had at least of couple of scions that started to swell buds but then were overtaken by the sooty mold and failed.  So, copper soap sounds like a better option than dilute bleach or peroxide to sterilize the scion?

The paper tube to shield the graft from sun is probably a good idea, I will give that a shot next time I try. 

I am still wondering if a perforated plastic baggy might work better than buddy tape here...

John

23
When you peel the bark off, what's left on the branch is all cambium. No need to line up the scion.

Ok, thanks.  The pic looked to me like the cambium had been removed with the bark layer from the rootstock.

24
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Mango graft problem
« on: August 21, 2018, 02:49:21 PM »
I have tried to graft some mangoes the last couple of years & have had very poor success.  I have been using cleft grafts & used to get very good results on temperate fruits, ornamentals, conifers, etc but I have not done well with mangoes.  I have been using rubber bands to secure the grafts and buddy tape to cover the scion & area near the graft.  It is possible that my eyesight is just gone down hill enough that I no longer line up the cambiums well enough but I don't think so. 

One thing I have noticed is that the scions tend to look like they are developing sooty mold (or something that resembles it).  Unfortunately, I neglected to take any pics.  It is not present on any of my trees or anything nearby but this is the Hilo area & fungus & other microbes are everywhere.  We do have a humid environment here but I am guessing that I still need something to insure that the graft area does not dry out initially.  I have not tried hydrogen peroxide or dilute bleach to sterilize the scions -- maybe that would be worthwhile.   Anyone encounter anything like this?  Any ideas?  I was thinking about trying to use a loose fitting plastic bag with a few small holes in it taped to protect the graft area from drying.

John


25
Did one alampur baneshan on Kent root stock this morning and took some photos. I cut a box on the bark  a little larger than the scion width and length. To pop out the bark and not bruise the periphery bark, I cut a centerline then pried out the bark by wedging the knife into the centerline and tilt it.


Your method looks pretty interesting.  However, I am having a hard time seeing where the cambiums meet up (looks like a pretty imprecise fit).  Do you just try to line up the cambium layers at the bottom & one side of the scion with corresponding cambium layers on the rootstock? 

I'll have to give your method a try.  I used to get a very high hit rate with cleft grafts on temperate fruit trees, ornamentals, & conifers but have had horrible luck with a cleft on mangoes.  This might be worth a try.

John

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