Tropical Fruit Forum - International Tropical Fruit Growers

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - achetadomestica

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 22
If the tree has the adequate amount of nutrients it will start to flush new leaves.
Those leaves will be green, hopefully the tree will have a growth spurt this year.
You have 2-3 months left. I would use the miracle grow also.  I don't think you can
over fertilize a peach tree. With the rainy season upon us one good rain and the
fertilizer is gone. Maybe do the granular one week and the root drench the next.

I would fertilize every other week with a pound of fertilizer.
The heavy rains could wash it away but keep fertilizing. A pound is not
a lot and put the fertilizer in a circle away from the trunk. That peach tree is starving
to death.  Peaches are HEAVY feeders. If you have miracle grow drench the roots once
a week. Diamond R 10-10-10 is only around $15 for 50 lbs.  Diamond R also sells a 25 lb water soluble
bag of 20-20-20 with micros for around $30. It's basically miracle grow. Also water at least 3
times a week.  It probably didn't flower or fruit because it didn't have the strength? Do you
go to the Diamond R in LaBelle? I knew a guy who got young newly grafted peach trees and
with Diamond R 10-10-10 and pond water his tree's trunks were bigger then my thigh in 2 years
and were 8' tall.

Can you snap a picture?
Peaches are very heavy feeders and love fertilizer.
What are you using for fertilizer?
Do you have a well or city water?

In the past I have used 10-10-10 Diamond R fertilizer with micros and
my peaches were very green and seemed happy. It turns out I had heavy salt
in my well water and it didn't seem to bother the peaches? Now I am using
manures and spraying with miracle grow every 2 weeks and the peaches seem
happy. in both regimens I was giving the peaches plenty of micros. 

Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Seeds shipped into US
« on: June 20, 2018, 08:38:45 PM »
If you get the seed permit don't the seeds need to be shipped without dirt of any
kind? If the seeds take 1-2 months to leave their country like Brazil how would they
stay moist and not desiccate? So many seeds would not make the trip without moist substrate???


Do you have a low chill type? Are the old leaves getting this before they drop or new leaves?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Are Pitangatuba Self-fertile?
« on: June 18, 2018, 10:09:32 PM »
If this is the first time it flowered I wouldn't worry, if it is still doing it next year
But what the heck if you like the fruit get another plant or two or ten.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: PPC atemoya to plant or not to plant
« on: June 17, 2018, 10:11:31 PM »
I would plant it now. water heavy and avoid fertilizer. I have 3 types of atemoyas and
they are very easy trees for me. If you lose the fruit this year you'll get it back next year and
then some?

Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: seeds
« on: June 17, 2018, 09:00:05 AM »
Hi Everyone

I use a similar mix but I think mine has vermiculite also. Maybe you are keeping too wet?
I don't see algae on mine and we are in our humid rainy season. I plant the seeds on top
of the dirt maybe a thin layer covering the seeds. I got 12 Garcinia braziliensis seeds earlier
this year and I left 4 in a baggie with damp vermiculite and 2 germinated and then I placed in
potting mix. I am liking this method more and more. It is easier to leave seeds in a baggie on
the counter, I tend to want to over water. Also vermiculite is easy to wet and squeeze out
excess water. Seeds don't spoil in this mix even after several months? I am trying some Luc's
Garcinia and jumbo Luc's Garcinia seeds now

How long does it take for these to germinate?  I have had them in soil for about three weeks now and have not seen any signs of germination.  One of the seeds looked like it was germinating before I planted it but have not seen anything come above the soil.

I hope I haven't been over watering them.  I have them under some tree canopy and a shade cloth above them so they don;t get any direct sun but still see filtered light.   I mist the soil surface with a garden sprayer every morning.  Fingers crossed!

I had 10 out of 10 germinate. Some took about a month and others took 2-3 months.
I recently started germinating G. braziliensis seeds and put 6 in pots and left 4 in a baggie
with damp vermiculite. So far two germinated in the baggie in about 6 weeks and I put in
pots. I have some more Luc's Garcinia seeds and I think I am going to leave them in a baggie
with damp vermiculite. So far every garcinia seed I have ever attempted to germinate has even
G. dulcis in the cool winter. They took 3-4 months but 6 out of 6 germinated. Now if I can figure
out how to make them grow fast.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Sweet tart mango
« on: June 14, 2018, 10:32:01 AM »
How often do you tip? Every 12"?

Is that the one with big leaves?
Common names of mulberries are confusing

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Lychee: Seed vs Air-layered
« on: June 10, 2018, 07:45:56 PM »
If you have room plant an air layer and plant a seedling.
I planted a couple grafted avocados but last year I planted 6 seeds and one of them
has a double trunk. I planted that one and I grafted a different one. I thought one
day I could graft 2 different types on this double trunk one? The seedling made it through
a 30F night and didn't blink. I am actually liking it more and more and want to see what it
turns out to be. Plant 10 lychee seeds and pick the best one and graft the others?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: rooting jabouticaba
« on: June 10, 2018, 07:25:57 PM »
there are many successful brazilian experiments, I read that on scientific papers but I cant find them now...

normal materiales: vermiculite, no rooting hormone was better... the best time was spring and autumn, not summer nor winter. Indoors.

It didnt worked for me but I should try harder!!!

Do you remember if the cuttings in vermiculite were kept in indirect light?
I can't imagine they were in full sun?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Are mature lychee trees less fincky?
« on: June 10, 2018, 07:18:41 PM »
There are several factors that can influence fruit production. They seem similar to mangos
in that they need a cool dry period, I hear people who water 3X a week in the winter and
they complain about not getting fruit. I visited a guy selling lychees in Bonita Springs.
His tree was planted in 1967 and they thought it was a Japanese plum. He never waters or
prunes or fertilizes his tree and he gets fruit every year. The fruit was good but low pulp/
seed ratio. This year he got the most fruit ever and it seems like allot of people did, maybe
Irma pruned allot of trees for people? The one thing that will always effect production is that
the trees could flower like a mango and in our 9b area if we get hit with late frost in February,
 the bloom would be jeopardized. I met another person who has very mature mangos and
a longan on his property. He must have 10 or more large mango trees and all but a couple are
loaded with fruit. The longan is also loaded with fruit. He never water, fertilizes or prunes his trees.
He said every year his longan is loaded. I asked him if I could airlayer it and he said sure. I want
one of those on my property. I am very curious why the couple of mangos didn't have fruit on his
property? The trees didn't outwardly look different just no fruit.

I am not sure how big the tree is but I would attempt it now and cut off the flowers.
Usually a mulberry will split when you prune a branch off and set more flowers. If you only have
a couple branches with flowers you could wait till it's done. Hopefully the tree is large and you
can try different size cuttings. Frequently a certain size branch will work fastest and each tree can
be different. Allot of trees work best with yearling branches, Soft brown wood.

Good Luck!

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Best way to air-layer a fruit tree?
« on: June 10, 2018, 04:04:10 PM »
There are numerous you tube videos, check them out then give it a try.
In one they use a sandwich baggie and fill with moist potting mix. They slit
the bag and place this around the branch. This worked the easiest for me.
It was harder for me to take a handful of damp sphagnum moss and wrap
that around the branch. I tried to do four on an Alano sapodilla and four
on a longan. I offered one to the person how owns the longan and he said
sure. I tried to do it a couple different ways to learn and see which way worked
the fastest. The tree will split where you attempt to do this and if you ever notice
the trees that nurseries use the budwood for grafting or airlayers are always bushy
afterwards and eventually will produce more fruit. It doesn't hurt the tree. This is a
great time to do it. The aluminum foil is to keep the sun from drying out the medium
and also to keep excess moisture out. After the airlayer roots and you place in a pot
then keep in indirect light for a couple months for the airlayer to root completely,

Mulberries are usually pretty easy.
I tried one type I have and I put 4 cuttings in a 3 gallon hoping 1 would take.
I left in indirect light and all four ended up rooting. I would take a cutting about
12" long and cut all the leaves/fruit off except one or two small leaves. If the cutting
puts out new flowers cut them off so the cutting puts its energy into rooting not
developing fruit. Try 3 or 4 now and make sure they are humid initially. Make sure the
cutting doesn't dry up before it roots. The only ones I have had trouble with are the
Pakistan ones, I have never got a white shatoot to root but the Black Pakistan I have
been able to do ok but I used dormant cuttings

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Fix a bad planting
« on: June 09, 2018, 05:21:54 PM »
Wow water 6"- 8" down already. In my area we haven't hit the wettest time yet.
How are your other trees? Have you had an issue with root rot? I definitely would plant
future trees on mounds. Is the tree ever in standing water? Unfortunately if you scrape
off 5-6" in a 6' radius then your tree will definitely be in standing water. I would be more
incline to add organic compost away from the trunk and eventually build up the area?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: rooting jabouticaba
« on: June 09, 2018, 02:14:40 PM »
I tried rooting a cutting from a red jabo and placed it in a window in a glass.
with rainwater. The cutting kept flushing new leaves to the point that I removed some of
the leaves hoping more energy for roots. This went on for 2-3 months and then I removed
almost all the new leaves but one or two and it quit putting out the leaves and after a couple
more months I gave up. I was hopeful but never a root. The cutting was probably bigger
then a 1/4". It is so easy to leave a cutting or even multiple cuttings in a window. I hope
someone has been successful and will share? In the past I tried to root weeping bottle brush and
finally it worked by leaving them in a glass for several months in the fall.  It hasn't worked
any other time of the year? I will keep trying to figure it out.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Fix a bad planting
« on: June 09, 2018, 02:02:38 PM »
Is there water sitting at the surface where the Avocado is planted?
If not dig down next to the tree and see where the water actually is.

I tend to lean on if it has been in the ground a year and a half leave it,
I add a circle of mulch around all my trees away from the trunk. I add fresh
mulch 2-3 times a year and I also add coffegrounds and oak leaves and other
various organics. I also add a worm I discovered down here that looks like a
wiggler and crosses a road in September. I added them to pots and plants in
the ground. One day I planted a potted plant and one of these worms was as big
around as my pinky and about 6 inches long. Probably an African nightcrawler
but whatever it is it thrives in Florida. What I noticed is most of my older plants
look like I planted on a mound and I originally planted them level. The ground is slowly
rising and the white sand is black and even resemble dirt. In a million years I am
going to have rich black dirt. If your plant has been in the ground for a year and a
half, it made it through Irma and I remember we were WET for a couple weeks after

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Myrciaria guaquiea
« on: June 08, 2018, 06:07:36 PM »
I have a one foot tall one in a tree pot.

Can I get on the list for seeds?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Fig trees
« on: June 08, 2018, 06:03:53 PM »
I have an LSU Purple, Two LSU Golds and a BROWN TURKEY . The LSU varieties are in a 5 gallon Home Depot bucket with the bottom cut out and are planted in the groung theu are now two years in the ground and hane grown to about 5 feet and hsve no fruit but look healthy. Also there is an old Celeste on the ptoperty the I pruned back last winter and it is full of smsll figs but they sre not getting larger, it is in the groung and is about 5 feet wide and 4 feet tall. The only star is a brown yurkey that is in about a 25 gallon ceramic pot that is fruit well and have sime large fruit. All tre were mulched the the low cost red mulch when Lowes had the dollar a bag sale in the spring. For some reason that is anout the same time the in ground figs shut down growing. I regolarly fertilise and I water them and dump corree frounds om them weekly, forst one hen the next week the other and so on. The leaves are showing signs of rosr on the brown turkey.

In Lee county they remove the yard debris weekly and also they take Hendry counties and process
it. I have heard they add human waste to it but haven't confirmed it. They drop this mulch off twice
a week for the residents. It is wonderful stuff with or without the human waste. Unfortunately allot of
people throw away plastic bags and they chop it up so you have to pick out the plastic pieces. I have
added manure and let this stuff sit for 6 months and it turns into the best black compost you could want.
2 or 3 times a year I add this mulch to my trees, If you add organics you build up good nemotodes that eat
the root eating nematodes. This is the only way you can put figs in sandy soil in Florida. I agree the mulch
you used is not the best. If you can get the tree trimmers fresh mulch and let sit for a while you will end up
with compost that is ideal for your figs. I am not sure why the LSU gold and purple didn't produce figs, Don't
worry if the figs are small on the Celeste. They will size up and fairly quickly. The figs form on the new growth,
does the LSU gold or LSU purple have new growth?  I would consider cutting a few inches off the gold and purple
but if your trees are locked up nutrient wise bacause of the mulch they may not grow? That mulch will break down
and it will quickly in the rainy season. Keep adding good organics, I prefer to fertilze the figs with manures.

 As far as the rust it is inevitable in Florida. I have seen pictures of bright green figs as big as oaks in California
but here in Florida the biggest fig I have seen is 15' celeste and it had rust all over it leaves in the summer.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Fig trees
« on: June 07, 2018, 11:09:28 PM »
Figs in humid Florida
I have had figs for 6-7 years and as mangomaniac said they are meant for Dry hot climates.
I have around 9 varieties now including the LSU purple, LSU gold, LSU champagne and LSU black.
Unfortunately the majority of figs ripen in our rainy season and they are washed out flavor wise.
One year I started the LSU gold from a cutting and it had a very late crop of figs that ripened in
November. They had honey dripping out of the eye and were the best figs I have ever eaten.
They were so moist and rich tasting. I only had 6-7 and I couldn't eat more then 2 at once because
they were so rich.
 My figs are in the ground and I add compost and manure and coffee grounds.
It is essential to do this if you want to put them in the ground in Florida. Currently I got about 15 garbage
cans of oak leaves and pine needles and I am putting this around my trees. I know a guy that throws this stuff
away constantly and its clean and perfect. Every winter or early spring you should trim the white branches.
Brown new branches will flush out and have the figs on the new growth. I picked the LSU black because its
suppose to be late and so far this year it doesn't have figs. I ate a couple LSU gold in the past week and they
were ok but nothing compared to when I ate them in November.
 One year my LSU purple had figs for about 6-7 months straight. It constantly had 1-2 ripen and many of them
ripened before and after the rainy season and they were great. Last year it barely had any and late this spring I
really zapped it with the pruners. It is a very bushy tree and currently it is putting out a bunch of new growth and
I am hoping to get late figs in October and November? It has all new growth now and no figs yet? I also am trying to keep
the LSU champagne and LSU gold as trees and not letting the tree bush out which it seems to do naturally. I have a
hard time giving up on trees but I wish I never got any figs to begin with, I hear and see pictures of how good they are
in the right climate and even though the LSU strains were crossed and meant for the humid south, they just don't
taste good when they ripen June though September. I also have a celeste and I have eaten some very good sweet
figs from it at certain times. I have a Texas Everbearing white type and it is 8' tall and 15' wide and has a hundred
figs on it and they have always gotten ripe in the wettest time of the year. By August it is done and not everbearing?

 One good thing about having the multiple varieties is each year 1-2 outperform the others, usually a different
type each year. The LSU champagne was suppose to be O'Roark's favorite fig.( O'Roark did all the work at LSU, )
and this year I should be able to try them for the first time.


Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 22
Copyright © Tropical Fruit Forum - International Tropical Fruit Growers