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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Jatropa
« Last post by achetadomestica on Today at 05:43:10 PM »
Originally the seeds came from a tree an old guy has. He has eaten the nuts for years.
My friend planted a seed and I got a tree from his seeds. My friend also ate the nuts.
My tree produced nuts and I ate the seeds and also planted one. Now I have a small tree
from the larger tree. That's 4 generations and no sign of toxicity? My small tree produced in
one year so it won't take long to figure it out. Also my friend's tree was constantly raided by
squirrels and they didn't disappear. I don't have squirrels in my yard someone shot them.

Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Cherimoya/Pawpaw hybrid
« Last post by usirius on Today at 05:34:52 PM »
Hi, to your question - for 25 years I am growing Paw Paws now! Yes, we can Keep in contact of course!
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Cherimoya/Pawpaw hybrid
« Last post by Triloba Tracker on Today at 05:29:27 PM »
I agree and all excellent points!
Great pictures.

How long have you been growing pawpaw? Would like to hear more about your trees, etc
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: vanilla persimmon
« Last post by usirius on Today at 05:19:20 PM »
I also have one vagnilla persimoon, the tree has been grafted years ago in a nursery in Italy. Every year it bears a lot of big fruits, and I cut the tree down every year, no Problem for the grows like weed. I only had on or two times grains in a fruit. normally it is without any grains. The tast for my opinion is not more vanille-liek thab other persimonns taste.
Thank you for your post and infomration. I have found your old post some time before and already seen the interesting report about R. nubigenus from 1920. But I did not know the newer reort from 1917 - so thanks a lot for this link - with this Report the first time I have seen this plant and the fruit in colur! I will Keep on searching dor it an Keep you informed if I will dind it one day. Concerning the size of the grains...I can imagine that eatin of raw fruit with great grains is not so comofrtable and agreeable - I made a similar experience by eating the Claoudberry (Rubus chamaemorus)  the grains in the Pulp can be really a uncomfartble by eating the fruit....- common Rubus fruits like Blackberries or Rhaspberries do not show such a problem! But the Pulp can be separated from the grains of course. We will keep staying in contact concerning this item, okay?
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Jatropha
« Last post by Aaron on Today at 05:13:45 PM »
Well, 3 of the 4 cuttings sent to me by achetadomestica struck, and all 5 seeds sprouted as well, growing nice and strong.

The cuttings:

The seedlings:

As for the seedlings, Iím at a bit of a loss as to how to manage them (crop-wise). I know they come from a line of seed-grown Jatropha that have all turned out edible, but Iím still a little wary of eating their nuts when they start bearing. Logic tells me to just taste Ďem and stop eating if I get gastric trouble, but that only accounts for the phorbol esters. Curcin is the more dangerous toxin by far, but I couldnít find much information on it out there. What are the symptoms of curcin poisoning? And what is the treatment? Can I just do the whole ďeat 1 the first day, 2 the second, etc.Ē that I would usually do, or is that still capable of poisoning me if the nuts have curcin? Should I just trust that the seedling nuts will be okay and go hogwild eating them?

The edible ones should be edible in their raw state (and I think the parent tree is such), but some toxic types can be eaten roasted... does that take care of the curcin or just the phorbol esters?

I already have the cuttings of the confirmed-edible parent, and I can easily get more cuttings once those trees mature (so... perhaps I donít need the seedlings?), but I kinda still wanna take care of the seedlings and use them as crops.

Anyone here got any advice?

I would only deal with cuttings.
From personal experience the root system has never been much of a problem for me. I have a 15ft tall tree with a trunk diamete of over a foot right next to my storage garage. I started it from a cutting. There is also a waterline next to it approximately 6 feet away and itís has gotten no damage. My tree has been in the ground for 12 years. During pruning I usually just stick the cut branches in the ground and they root readily however I do dispose of them after some time usually a year. They have a vigorous root system but itís nothing that will break through a wall. I also have a three year old plant that is in a seed bed that I left to grow right next to my fence and it has not compromised it. IDE recommend you planting it at least 5 feed from the wall or structure just as a precaution but personally you have nothing to worry about in terms of roots.
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Sold Lucuma seeds for sell
« Last post by marklee on Today at 05:06:04 PM »
Do you still have Lucuma seeds still available?
I have new lucuma seeds available again.
Are you still interested.


Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Cherimoya/Pawpaw hybrid
« Last post by usirius on Today at 05:05:41 PM »
@all: Thanks for your replies and thoughts!

@Triloba Tracker
to 1) I agree with you that with Paw Paw, when it is ripe from the tree, a small scar is formed, but for a long time there is no wound as big as that of the Cherimoya, when the fruit is fully ripe and trapped by gravity, the stem becomes full Fruit marc ripped from the middle of the fruit when it falls from the tree. Here are a few photos that show how small the wound is when Paw Paws fall from the tree. There is nothing left behind, and the fear has a small wound that dries quickly, and nothing bad at the fruit happens in the next days. while at same time a Chermioya fruit will begin rottenn and smudges at her great wound and the fruit soon spoils ....all happens after it falls fully ripe from the tree. Of course, you can trim them immature on the stem, but fruits ripened on the tree are more valuable in terms of better flavor.
Regarding 2) The Paw Paw strains I have and the Cherimoya strains that I have are the other way round, it is quite a skin resistant to pressure and injury to Paw Paw and quite sensitive and sensitive to the skin of Cherimoya , It may be that there are varietal differences regarding the stability of the skin in both Paw Paw and Cherimoya.
to 3) I have experienced that Paw Paws harder if they fall from tree like Cherimoyas, probably because of 1)
to 4) Definitely there are some - and also non-Petersen - varieties, which fruits show little number of seeds and much flesch. The best I have is Prima 1216, an Italien breed. As a rule, the fruit is no longer like 6-7 seeds, and the fruits are also huge!
In addition, Paw Paw quickly finished when you cut the fruits along, you pull out the manageable number of cores, as they are usually all sees and finds, and can spoon out the rest. At Cherimoya, the core quest does not stop until the fruit is finished .... it's really annoying! A hybrid of both might have a smaller number of nuclei like Chermioaya.

I have two Spondias purpurea. I really love the trees. They grow fast, take the heat, have beautiful foliage and I like the fruit! I have one in the ground and one in 5 gallon bucket. Both trees are ~6 ft tall.

So I have a question for those that have been growing them for awhile:

The one in the pot will eventually go in the ground. I have a potential spot for it that is next to a block wall and some pool equipment (there used to be a large queen palm there).

I know the Spondias purpurea will grow great there (will take the heat and sun just fine). But what about the roots? Will the root system eventually cause a problem with these nearby structures and equipment? The tree is from a rooted cutting (not a seedling tree). I would think that would tend to make the root system less invasive, but I am not basing that off anything except a gut feel.
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