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For some strange reason no one is talking enough about one of the single most important ingredients for a healthy citrus tree, and I'm not really sure why. The reason for this post is because people come to this forum for useful, current information and this one is curiously overlooked.
.......it's Water. Sure, forget the growing medium (as long as its a high quality porous medium) - However, I would not recommend using CHC for various reasons - refer to post: "different" opinion on CHC, for more information. Its all about the water. For the beginner to advanced citrus grower; if you are not measuring your water, well you should be. Fortunately, with the right equipment its pretty easy to do.
What I really am getting to is water parameters - Its whats in the water There are basically two things you want to know. 1. Total dissolved solids. TDS, PPM, EC, - all let you know basically the same thing, how much stuff is in the water. 2. The other important item is the concentration(or lack of concentration) of hydrogen ions- (PH)
If you are spending multiple hundreds of dollars(or much more) on trees, then spending around $150 on a high quality digital multimeter should be no problem. It's true that a good meter is not as glamorous as that brand new thermal tarocco you just bought but, it is worth it's weight in gold(which I read is quite a bit now a days). Digital multimeters measure electrical conductivity between two diodes in a waterproof probe which then gives a readout in the form of PPM, EC or TDS. PPM is more or less the standard of measurement, so that's the term you'll see as we move along. There are many other types of meters that will measure certain elements in the water that are much more expensive but, normally are not necessary.
Here's a simple quick and dirty step by step for implementing the use of a multimeter into your citrus watering regiment;
1 *important* start with the cleanest possible or filtered water at around 70 degrees. If you have a well get it tested and find out what minerals your starting with, generally if its under 60ppm and factoring in what the water test reveals it should be ok. If you have city water, call your municipal water supply and they will be able to provide you whats in the water and at what levels.. A 1, 5 or 10 micron pre filter + Carbon post filter tends to work the best for reducing contaminates and are the most economical, other options are available for more dramatic reduction needs. Knowing whats in your water may provide other benefits as well, like health.
2. Fill your bucket. I like to add a little hydrogen peroxide to the bucket (small amount, a tablespoon or so per 5 gallons - or follow label instructions if you manage to find the better plant specific type - generally higher concentration, but be careful its literally rocket fuel at super high concentrations and will burn you) this adds a higher oxygen concentration to the water and has antibacterial proprieties. Now use a jet type sprayer to fill the bucket, you'll see many little bubbles which are oxygenating the water, citrus roots love oxygen. Normally, you would add about a teaspoon to a tablespoon per 5gallons of Epsom salts once a month to once every other month depending on watering frequency. Get the Epsom salts to increase the ppm by about 100-150ppm, use the same ppm or slightly elevated but more frequently when treating a deficiency.
3. Use a high quality liquid (organic if you like, although not required) fertilizer(must have trace minerals) with a high nitrogen(N), medium to low phosphorus(P), and high to medium potassium (K) level. something in the neighborhood of 8.2.5 is pretty close to ideal. Slowly bring the ppm level to about 300-400. I have seen quite a bit of recommendation around here on what the correct NPK ratio, to be honest there is no one size fits all ratio, and the ones saying there is a one size fits all I am sorry to be the one to tell you, you are simply wrong. Quick explanation is: you must factor in tree type, size, climate, soil, nutrient uptake, container, in ground, organic/synthetic, time of year and many other factors. I believe for organic container citrus this(8.2.5) is the best ratio for me and you may find a different ratio that works better for you. Just remember citrus are heavy nitrogen feeders, so don't be scared of applying N at every watering. For the added benefit of trace minerals and growth hormones add about 25-50ppm of liquid kelp - but keep the ppm always to 400 or below for medium to large trees and below 300 for smaller trees. I also spray with around 10-20 drops(20-40ppm) per spray bottle of kelp about once a week or so - particularly when new flushes are occurring, new leaves absorb the beneficial hormones more efficiently then older leaves, and don't forget the under side of the leaves too. For larger trees, heavy feeders or before new flushes, In addition to the water, feel free to scratch in 1/4- 1/2 strength organic citrus granules to the soil surface, just be careful not to over do it.
4. After the water is at the right PPM, test the PH with your multimeter. its probably going to be on the lower end or may even be perfect(6.0-6.5) adjust the water either up or down SLOWLY because if its goes either too high or too low there is no going back, you must start completely over. Your target is consistency with PH. After the water is adjusted to the correct PH let it sit for about 5-10 min, come back and verify the PH level held, if it did you're ready to water, if not adjust again and wait another 5-10min, repeat until stable PH is achieved. When watering let a good amount of water come out of the bottom of the container, this flushes salt buildup out of the container among other things. Typically only water when soil top 2 inches is dry, use a moisture meter or lift the container if unsure.
Skeeter
Joined: 23 Jul 2006
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 11:17 am Post subject: Reply with quote Edit/Delete this post Delete this post View IP address of poster
I don't disagree with the addition of Epsom Salt or hydrogen peroxide, but I do not see the need to use expensive organic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers supply nutrients in the same form as organic fertilizers have to be converted to before they can be available to the plant roots. In our high rainfall area the best solution is commercial slow release fertilizer.
You can water soluble fertilizer that you use with each watering, but we frequently have weeks of rain and periods of months where you do not have to water.
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RyanL
Citruholic
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 11:33 am Post subject: Reply with quote Edit/Delete this post Delete this post View IP address of poster
The granules will be releasing nutrients during the extended period of rain, then when you're back in drought conditions continue with water. Of course it would need to be tweaked slightly for your area but still very realistic. In NC we have much rain followed by drought also, and I know this method works if you want it to.
Also Skeeter, This is not meant to change anyone's mentality, this meant for anyone interested in organic citrus growing. My point is, with the right equipment it can be relatively easy, as long as you have an open mind and you want it to work.
Last edited by RyanL on Thu Aug 18, 2011 2:36 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Joined: 23 Jul 2006
Posts: 2218
Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 1:32 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Edit/Delete this post Delete this post View IP address of poster
I have an open mind, but I am a chemist and I know that there is no difference in ammonia whether it came from a chemical plant or break down of fish meal. I am not willing to pay more for fertilizer just because it is organic unless there is some other benefit and I do not see any. I do pay more for slow release fertilizer because I do not loose it after the first rain. Water soluble organic fertilizers wash away just like water soluble synthetic fertilizer. Our 7 ft of rain a yr is a lot more than NC--I lived there for 11 yrs.
I can understand people who want to use organic methods when it comes to pesticides and I thoroughly believe in the advantages of adding organic material to garden soil. I use all my grass and leaves as well as my neighbors in my compost pile, but with our heavy rain--and our sunny hot humid environment breaks down every bit of that compost in just a yr when I add it to my relatively small garden.
I know pesticides, I analyzed them for years. I would not hesitate to use some of the synthetic pesticides or organic pesticides that I know are safe if I needed them, but I avoid them more from an ecological reasons. I encourage beneficial insects whenever possible and do not like to use any materials that leave a toxic residue that might kill them. I perfer spraying with things like soap or oil that only kill what I put it on and if I see a beneficial bug I can avoid it.
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RyanL
Citruholic
Joined: 07 Jan 2010
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 5:10 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Edit/Delete this post Delete this post View IP address of poster
Well, with fertilizer cost it really depends on how many trees you are looking after and what fertilizer you are buying. For me, I spend in the neighborhood of $100-$150 a year on organic fertilizer for my 15 large to medium container trees. I can however agree that the cost of organic is more then non and your point about ammonia is ammonia is correct.
The real difference between organic and non in this context(as you probably know), is all about soil microbes and biologic activity within it. Organic cultivation is based around the philosophy of facilitating the natural breakdown process of organic material until you get that same ammonia. I will never be one to say organic citrus is easier or more convenient. Organic is more a belief or philosophy that the results and time spent all contribute to a more nutrient rich, flavorful, natural, chemical free, planet friendly, educative, end product.
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pagnr
Citrus Guru
Joined: 23 Aug 2008
Posts: 406
Location: Australia
PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 9:27 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Edit/Delete this post Delete this post View IP address of poster
Soil microbes are involved in plant nutrition, and the conversion of nutrients to usable forms( patricularly Nitrogen ) when using both synthetic or organic fertilizers. Organic requires many more steps. Apart from that, pot media itself is not inert, and those made from plant/wood wastes are continually 'composting', absorbing and releasing nutrients, using the"synthetic nutrients to carry on organic processes", when growers apply chemical fertilizers.
The possible advantage of organic fertilizers is that the extra stages of microbe activity seem to build high populations of microbes which can suppress and simply physically out compete root disease organisms.
The dividing line between synthetic and organic is probably not as great,
as many from either approach would claim ?
I tend to favour a mix of both, especially in trying to encourage beneficial microbes.
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Skeeter
Location: Pensacola, FL zone 9
PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 10:14 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Edit/Delete this post Delete this post View IP address of poster
pagnr wrote:
Soil microbes are involved in plant nutrition, and the conversion of nutrients to usable forms( patricularly Nitrogen ) when using both synthetic or organic fertilizers. Organic requires many more steps. Apart from that, pot media itself is not inert, and those made from plant/wood wastes are continually 'composting', absorbing and releasing nutrients, using the"synthetic nutrients to carry on organic processes", when growers apply chemical fertilizers.
The possible advantage of organic fertilizers is that the extra stages of microbe activity seem to build high populations of microbes which can suppress and simply physically out compete root disease organisms.
The dividing line between synthetic and organic is probably not as great,
as many from either approach would claim ?
I tend to favour a mix of both, especially in trying to encourage beneficial microbes.
I agree, especially when you are talking about soil and for most plants other than citrus. Most people have heard the complaint about synthetic fertilizers--that it causes soil compaction--what it really does is stimulate the breakdown of organic material. Soil Bacteria need many of the same nutrients as plants, N,P,K and trace minerals. Natural high organic soils are very low in nutrients or oxygen (or more acurately-electron receptors)--otherwise the bacteria would degrade the organic matter. The addition of pure nutrients in the form of granular fertilizer provides the nutrients that the bacteria need to grow and degrade the organic matter--thereby causing soil compaction. That is the reason we need to add even more organic matter to the soil, but that organic matter does not need to be high nutrient organic matter (like horse or cow manure) to maintain a rich, porous, healthy soil full of microbes if you also add fertilizer. I do not have access to free cow or horse manure here in the city, if I did I would use it, but it does need to be composted first to kill week seeds.
Citrus trees are prone to root rot, so I do not mulch my citrus trees, but I do add a bag of composted cow manure in the spring--near the drip line. The main reason I buy the cow manure is as a rapid easy way to bank the trunk of the tree in case of severe cold in winter.
Skeet
