The Tropical Fruit Forum

I find guavas tough to eat, in quantity, unless they are pureed.

Is there some feature of the fruit, which helps to identify it, or does this require genetic testing?

The imported blackberries have a bitter taste.

(Fruit from the seedlings does not.)

I see that you've gotten lots of views, are working hard to answer private messages, and would like to express my interest.

What is fair postage for a 'minimum order' of seeds, sent to the US?   

Malabar chestnut is a close relative of the braided "good luck" plants?

I felt that part of the problem is size. 1yr Chiquita Gran Nain completely disappeared, when overwintered, outdoors, in zone 9. 2-3yr Chiquitas and Plantains died to the ground, in unprotected spots, but grew back, bigger. I think a sufficiently-large tree could survive in a wind-sheltered spot.

In zone 9, my more-tender, tropical stuff will survive at about the circumference of a man's wrist, mainly taking minor damage at the outer edge of the crown.

I assume that is taking a risk, of a once-in-a-decade temperature drop, and I would be mulching like crazy, or moving things indoors, if that was in the forecast.

(I'm a hefty powerlifter, but my back was sore for a week, the last time, that happened.)

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Get lots of seeds. 

If you are using Chrome try Firefox.

I was intimidated, but this worked for me, intuitively, on the first try.

Quote from: Ansarac on May 20, 2015, 04:25:30 PM

Here are the paper pots, you asked for, in my thread about starting seeds.
http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=15880.msg202517#msg202517

When they become available, I would like to find a trustworthy source of viable monkey-orange seeds, although I see a couple of vendors, online.

Thank you Ansarac
Im sure I will have a few fresh seeds of what I think is cocculoides in due course I also will probably get more Spinosa next season.
Strychnoses in general seem to be appallingly hard to germinate and rot very easily. Spinosa is the easiest iv tried so far and germinates from under the soil, cocculoides if indeed that is what I have here I'm new to:)

I would be very grateful. When the time comes, please tell me how to make it fair.

I have experience in air layering persimmon and know some of the causes of failure.

Sometimes, it is not recommended, not because rooting is impossible. The resulting clone will not be shaped like a standard tree, when you are taking from a woody tissue which has already developed sideways growth. Major limbs do not seem to have orientation, as toward the sun, in that case.

It was my understanding that water and nutrients travel up the woody core and down the greener skin.

Collaring effectively creates a parasite on the tree, in that it It consumes the vitality of the host plant, but does not give anything back.

This is important, because attempts at conserving neglected trees resulted in the layers dying, outrightly.

When I nourished and cared for the tree very well, the layer grew faster than the rest of tree. (This is also a method of increasing the size of fruit.)

When cloning, leaves are routinely trimmed back, to about 1/3 their normal length, to slow moisture loss, which may also divert more energy elsewhere.

And, it is possible to use very conservative amounts of rooting hormone, in your substrate. The substrate can be any sort of material, whatsoever, which will hold moisture. Synthetic fibers can provide a sterile medium. But, it is the excess of rooting hormone, which will always cause rot to occur, in my experience.

Depending on the methods I used, on persimmon,  I got bulbous, yellow callousing, or the wood turned black, or it molded. 

Calloused branches did not have vigor, when removed.

The project should ideally be started in late winter, at first emergence of the leaves, and the callous should be allowed to form small roots before removal from the tree. Leaves should be kept at a minimum, the fruit not allowed to form, and the nascent roots fertilized gently.

They are more finicky than Prunus and Malus, but it is definitely possible.