Has anyone had real life experience with t-budding mango? Jeff, surely you must have tried this yes?
:-) It's a much better idea to top-work an unwanted tree rather than yank it and replant. You can also top-work with more than one cultivar. I'm currently top-working a ~5 year old carrie to Sweet Tart + Harvest Moon. I'll post the pic's as it develops.
Hmmmm...I seem to have heard that option recently! Jeff, is there any reason why you wait for the tree to sprout and graft onto those instead of grafting the scions directly to the sawn off branch...much like we do with apples? a sort of wedge graft where a "V" is notched out at the cut into the wood. The scion is cut in a wedge and trimmed to fit. It is then squeezed into the cut until it is very tight with cambiums matched.
Here's a video demonstrating this technique. It's very interesting. I believe this is Axel from the Cloudforest forum. He is a master grafter.
With mangoes this hasn't happened to me much. But with annona, especially recent cherimoya grafts I have had buds from the scion push only to die off immediately when they burst through the parafilm I wasn't sure why that was. Murahilin told me that Jeff told him that if an annona graft pushes immediately it is going to always die...or words to that effect. A sucessful annona graft will be dormant until the scion heals onto the rootstock and then it pushes when it breaks dormancy. has anyone else found this to be true?
Harry
I've only had success grafting annonas after April, well after bud break and when the tree is in vigorous growth flush. After around September, success tapers off again. I'm not entirely sure why other than perhaps the dormancy translates into lack of cambium growth.
Loquat will commonly push and then die if you leave it without a source of energy (ie, leaves).
Atemoya mostly, but have grafted some squamosa, reticulata and rollinia, and a few other species this year with good results so far...if they die out of no where I will let you know.
Here is some pics young graftsman.
4826 atemoya, cleft. Bagged entire plant to keep scion from desiccating. Now the cats out of the bag, and growing well...I haven't taken the tape off yet around the union. Do you think I'm gumping the jun, by saying these grafts have taken?
(http://s14.postimage.org/y44ot930t/annonagraft_3_28_12_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/y44ot930t/)
Graft union of plant above
(http://s14.postimage.org/smc35g7t9/annonagraft_3_28_12_004.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/smc35g7t9/)
Nuathong, same as above, but I removed the bag early, damaging the fully formed leaves...so removed the fully formed leaves and I put it in shade, and its recovering nicely with new growth still coming. Now it can handle fuller sun.
(http://s14.postimage.org/gbnpz4b65/annonagraft_3_28_12_005.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gbnpz4b65/)
Graft union of plant above
(http://s14.postimage.org/7x83b1a4t/annonagraft_3_28_12_006.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7x83b1a4t/)
These two are examples of the easiest way I know how to graft, but I do have some veneer grafts on big trees, in pots, that have lost all of their leaves, and some with leaves....the real key is timing when to cut the scion, and selecting a good scion.
OK, I see what you did. You were able to harvest budwood before the leaves fell off. Good work.
The scions I took were from dormant branches, about to leaf out for the first time this year. So leafless sticks were attached to rootstocks...am I confusing u? or am I confused? :-\ :-[ ;DOK, I see what you did. You were able to harvest budwood before the leaves fell off. Good work.
Here is a picture of grafts I made on my Geffner. The Nuathong and Lisa were grafted last month and took some time to push. The African Pride was grafted a couple of weeks ago and took off immediately. I had it in my portable greenhouse this whole time and just stuck it on the north side of my house yesterday. You guys have me worried!! I thought I had successful grafts until I read some of these posts. Do you think there's a chance my grafts will die in a couple of months? Greg
(http://s16.postimage.org/rpy6xbezl/P1230722.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/rpy6xbezl/)
Nuathong on left. Lisa on right.
(http://s16.postimage.org/5tbnwy1sx/P1230723.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5tbnwy1sx/)
African Pride
(http://s7.postimage.org/jmrc6wnh3/P1230724.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jmrc6wnh3/)
I think Adam is right about the advantage of small rootstock and big scion. I have done some good dormant Annona grafts in late winter and early spring, but I have done a lot of terrible batches too, using rootstock that we knew would be too big to use next summer.
Here is a picture of grafts I made on my Geffner. The Nuathong and Lisa were grafted last month and took some time to push. The African Pride was grafted a couple of weeks ago and took off immediately. I had it in my portable greenhouse this whole time and just stuck it on the north side of my house yesterday. You guys have me worried!! I thought I had successful grafts until I read some of these posts. Do you think there's a chance my grafts will die in a couple of months? Greg
Makok scion on left hand side already popped out of buddytape a good 1cm...that was less than a week! Talk about perfect timing, it usually takes my sapodilla grafts about 1.5 month to even budge! When all three scions are leafed out I will be sure to post pics.
Ok, now I'm waiting on Silas Wood to pop up. Makoks on either side have jumped out of their wraps.
Will post pics like I said...as soon as Silas pops or flops.
Someone (who propagates and owns a nursery) once said sapodillas are expensive because of the difficulty involved in grafting them. I can't imagine this is the case. I just think they are in high demand, like atemoya. They are both very easy to graft.
I'll bet folks like Harry remember when Ilamas were in high demand. Now, I can graft half dozen and have them last me for years before anybody buys them.
I'll bet folks like Harry remember when Ilamas were in high demand. Now, I can graft half dozen and have them last me for years before anybody buys them.
Oh yes, I do, we used to deliver the trees by dinosaur drawn carriages. :)
Harry
Very nice Adam. if it wasnt for swings in weather some of my scions would be broken out too. I tried
1. Cheft
2. T-budding
3. Veneer
4. Bark
Veneer seems to be really green healthy, others hard to say. I am going to wait for another two weeks to see what happens. My trees were top worked and pruned like Greg's and I am seeing a lot of new growth being pushed on the pruned tree. Hopefully the tree is pushing a lot of sap into the scions too. Wake up, wake up!
Sorry Joe, I was confused. I have the same question for those in Southern California. Because we are in similar climate, how long should one wait for grafts that are made outdoors on matured trees? I hate to say that even my apple, apricot, plums, pear are sucking bad with just hint of new growth starting while I see big box stores and some others around where I live lush and green. My Longan is in full swing loaded with flowers, but lychee wants to die, just ordered rooting hormone to save it.
Any graft takes from Joe's (JF) scion distribution to folks here? Mine are still dormant and I expect So Cal folks to be in the same boat. Mine are outside on mature tree, still green so I am sure union is formed by now. growth may be around the corner, we need two good weeks of heat and thats it.All of mine have pushed.
Looking for advice. Here is a mango veneer graft I did last september. The scion is NDM and the rootstock is Manilla. The scion never pushed but is still alive and fused to the rootstock. Should I just leave the tree alone or is there something I could do to help it to push?
Thanks, Greg
(http://s15.postimage.org/wchx7f1c7/P1230993.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wchx7f1c7/)
Cut it back to maybe a centimeter above the scion. At least one of the buds on the scion should swell and grow.
Adam, what rootstock are you using to graft annonas?
Thanks,
Hi All
I grafted three maha chanoks about a month ago.....The top graft rotted, second starting to push and the third is still green but no sign yet...Should I remove the third(lowest graft) since my second graft is now pushing?
Thanks
DT
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t460/dnt72800/DSCN2369.jpg)
(http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t460/dnt72800/DSCN2365.jpg)
I did some grafts last weekend, all were veneer grafts. Boy did I have a hard time after I cut the root stock/branches for veneery, the curve in branches got me when I tried to put the scion. I was not going to give up so I took the curve out by tightly wrapping the scions using green nurcery tape, ensuring there are no gaps (at least from I could see), then wrapped the whole scoin in buddy tape. Oh, I wrapped all scions in buddy tape before I grafted them, then I wrapped them again. I hope some take my grafts as this is my first time on mangoes.
Amrapali over Nam Doc Mai
(http://s11.postimage.org/at83qzs7z/Amrapali_Nam_Doc_Mai.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/at83qzs7z/)
Mallika over Alphonso
(http://s13.postimage.org/bmh9i8zs3/Amrapali.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bmh9i8zs3/)
Amarpali over Alphonso. You can see how I kept the veneer layer of root stock, then I brought that over the scion at base and cut the rest. I saw this technique in one of the videos.
(http://s16.postimage.org/lxjz02b8h/Mallika_1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/lxjz02b8h/)
Mallika & maha chanok over Manila
(http://s14.postimage.org/skquhoflp/Mallika_over_Manila.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/skquhoflp/)
CM, from what I read, do you mean the entire scion should be kissing the rootstock in veneer graft? I went about 4 inch long lap, some of my scions were 8 inches or longer. Take a look at 3rd picture, I couldnt lap anymore as its hard to align cambium layers over a very long length on a branch.
Thoughts?
Looking for advice. Here is a mango veneer graft I did last september. The scion is NDM and the rootstock is Manilla. The scion never pushed but is still alive and fused to the rootstock. Should I just leave the tree alone or is there something I could do to help it to push?My NDM graft from last Sept. is now pushing. Looks like cutting the rootstock was all I needed to do.
Thanks, Greg
(http://s15.postimage.org/wchx7f1c7/P1230993.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wchx7f1c7/)
My NDM graft from last Sept. is now pushing. Looks like cutting the rootstock was all I needed to do.
Greg
(http://s7.postimage.org/ck3rl5mx3/IMG_0008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ck3rl5mx3/)
A whole thread about mis-labeled annonas, including faux 'Genova Red' seems to have disappeared into thin air!
Why not split it like the Hurricane post...A whole thread about mis-labeled annonas, including faux 'Genova Red' seems to have disappeared into thin air!
It started off as a buy,sell, trade post then transformed into an informative post but I didn't move it from its original home in the buy, sell, trade forum. Should I move it here to this forum?
Why not split it like the Hurricane post...
Oops. I apologize for forgetting to check that other area that I normally don't look at. I only participated in that thread after being asked to and didn't notice that it was in Buy and Sell.
That is a beautifully branched out honest seedling avocado tree doing the best it can. You can see it has put all its effort into nice leaf and branch growth (roots too). I would prune it back to half that size and feed it straight potassium to stimulate it to fruit next year. Maybe you will get lucky. But if you want to cut it way back now why not do it to the best three or four branches at 48" and do the top working from there? Not from a stump but from the strongest branches.It flowered this year for the first time but I don't see any developing fruit hiding in the new growth. Believe it or not the crotch where the tree first branches out is so high up that I barely reach it.... maybe 7 feet high. I think that it is way too high up there to trim it to 48"
24" inches is what I pugged™ a much smaller Fairchild mango tree back to. You should be thinking higher. Just my opinion.
How many weeks?
www.nt.gov.au/d/Content/File/p/Fruit/678.pdf (http://www.nt.gov.au/d/Content/File/p/Fruit/678.pdf)
Mr Silva grafts do have to be kept humid and I use grafting tape and put a bag over it.I sometimes spray butiminous steri-prune spray on as well and don't use grafting wax any more.The paper above by Lim on new grafting techniques might give you some ideas.
How many weeks?
Three weeks Jeff. I've been here before but this one looks more promising.
3 weeks is a bit early to know for sure, but it does look very promising. My guess is that it's a take.How many weeks?
Three weeks Jeff. I've been here before but this one looks more promising.
Got First Mango Take! Wooooooooo Hooooooooooo! Fingers Crossed.
This one is Amrapali, the inverse of Mallika, only tastier newer variety from India. Scions were from Oscar. Mallika is hanging on thought! This picture if you look clearly, at the tip, the bud broke thry the buddy tape wrap. Graft is on Alphonso Airlayer!
(http://s17.postimage.org/prglda3i3/Amrapali.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/prglda3i3/)
Adam, great job on the Green sapote graft. Those grafts are hard to do because of the excess fibers in the cambium area. Plus the long wait to see if it takes keeps you in anticipation. How big a scion piece did you graft?
i guess my green sapote graft is pushing.
One day a hard wind blew through my yard, and snapped off a branch of my green sapote tree...it happened to be at the proper time to graft for the scion, so I veneered it onto a seedling mamey....and it did take quite a while for this to do anything...I really hope it lives.
I'd also be quite happy if it takes because the diameters of the scion and rootstock were not a close match at all.
(http://s15.postimage.org/6meeao7w7/grabo5_18_030.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6meeao7w7/)
(http://s15.postimage.org/5y5jrq96f/grabo5_18_029.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5y5jrq96f/)
It funny because I found the scion of green sapote very soft and easy to cut...the rootstock didn't present any challenges either...but I'm not out of the woods yet...this graft hasn't even been unwrapped!
I wrapped with greentape as tight as I could, and had only about 1.5 inch at most of cambium contact. So maybe I can bend the rules and still have success.
I really hope it doesn't deceive me.
I will be sure to post pics either way.
Thanks for the tip! I went ahead and pinched off the shoots below the graft. wahoo ;D I'm still so excited about this
-Luke
It's soft if you graft in the young/unhardened stage. If it's been 4 or 5 weeks, then that graft is likely a take.
Someone needs to try the inverted root graft on these puppies to induce some precocity.It funny because I found the scion of green sapote very soft and easy to cut...the rootstock didn't present any challenges either...but I'm not out of the woods yet...this graft hasn't even been unwrapped!
I wrapped with greentape as tight as I could, and had only about 1.5 inch at most of cambium contact. So maybe I can bend the rules and still have success.
I really hope it doesn't deceive me.
I will be sure to post pics either way.
no more posting pics of grafts for me, until they are out of the bag and callused.
All mine keep failing as soon as I post pics of them pushing!
Green sapote veneer, late term failure. :( :'( >:(
I've been jinxing my self all along!
Interesting that a few of us, including myself, have had losses of grafts after taking pics of them. Do you think the flash of the camera could have something to do with it???? :-\
here is my take. Any graft that pushed withn a week for me died. The mango that pushed in 6 days, the scion is alive but the growth died. However, the two other scions on the same root stock that took 4 weeks to break are pushing very very hard.
This is why they say timing is important and if grafting is done during dormant season, chances of success are high as union if formed and matured before dormancy ends. on the other hand, an actively growing time or when things are pushing hard, scions tend to push along without the healed union and as more green growth is developed on the scion, nutritional needs rise and wound that is not healed isnt able to support the scion demands. result is failue of scion.
I got poor rate of success in Guava grafts, about 30%, happy to report that at least now I have 5 successful grafts there.
100% success in Apple and Pears.
90% success in Appriots and Plums
80% success in Annonas
Mangoes - wait and see game, dont want to jinx it.
I also observed that grafts on matured in ground plants take faster and stronger than in pot. This is my observation when looking at Mango in ground, in pot, and more mature in ground rootstocks.
That seldom happens that rootstock is pushing and scion is dormant, in case of Cherimoya, and all fruits such as apple, pear and lot of others, time may be too late to graft now with great success. On Mangoes, weather here sucks so we can graft pretty much year round.Take scions in Dec/Jan for pommes and prunus, store in fridge wrapped with moist paper towel in a plastic bag for 2 months, then graft. Cherimoya/white sapote works year round for me too.
That seldom happens that rootstock is pushing and scion is dormant, in case of Cherimoya, and all fruits such as apple, pear and lot of others, time may be too late to graft now with great success. On Mangoes, weather here sucks so we can graft pretty much year round.Take scions in Dec/Jan for pommes and prunus, store in fridge in a plastic bag with moist paper towel for 2 months, then graft. Cherimoya/white sapote works year round for me too.
I have 7 mango grafts and 6 are veneer, success rate appears quite high as only one died and it was the weakest scion and also had turned brown when I got it from someone. One Graft is cleft and its hanging on. Once all these push into healthy growth I will post pictures.
Thanks for the encouragement Steven! I'll have to look up a how-to for cleft and give that a shot.
-Luke
Changed the subject of the post, I think this one is more befitting.
Behelgarden,
I think they will take if they are swelling! Don't fiddle with them! I always mess them up this way.
Best of luck. :)
Keep me in the loop
If you cut off the rootstock shoot too soon would the rootstock base restrict nutrients to the scion because the scion doesn't have a strong enough connection to give the hormonal signal that there's still something alive up there? I make up a lot of theories to explain things.
That's some serious skills there. Have you grafted anything this small before?
Smaller u say?
Well..technically the cuts are larger, but the scion may be less massive...here's a tiny patch graft I did on a M.jaboticaba, where I slapped on some Red jabo budwood. It's taken nicely, and even shed the bark somewhat, leaving a cool pattern!
(http://s12.postimage.org/gv1jg9v6h/06_10_12_009.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/gv1jg9v6h/)
Thanks for kind words!
I hope to keep them coming...I've been grafting up a storm...and starting to unlock some strange puzzles.
In the next 2-5yrs, the world of Myrciaria / Plinia will be forever changed (maybe it already has been altered). Soon you will have access to over 10 species and cultivars to choose from, some grafted, some seed grown...but all jaboticaba!
I will keep you posted!
Now that's a Turbo take there Joe! Did u had a grafting professional graft some? What were results?
Thanks Behl and JF....yeah it felt good to have my first mango graft take...I've also got a thompson
that is still green but no shoots coming out as yet. Behl it is buffudling why these 2 took and all the others, so painstaking cut to fit, just failed......i just am clueless.
Did you see my other post about the weather. WE've had 27days of 100 degrees or more this year compared to 6 last year. For SURE my Manilas are going to ripen in early July - another few weeks - where normally it's in August. I think I've got a lot of what they call "degree days" of heat this year. I'm having to shade cloth some of the newer plants - just struggling too much and gettin' mighty crispy...
JF - I don't know why mine aren't as advanced as yours....well here...let me go take a pic right now and give you a live update:
Neelkiran
(http://s11.postimage.org/51ksyter3/Neelkiran_Mango_Graft_061212_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/51ksyter3/)
Kooky...
(http://s7.postimage.org/6cid7p03r/Kook_Lom_Krong_Mango_Graft_061212_003.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6cid7p03r/)
Great job with your mango grafts, gents. Now I'm the only one still in the gutter :-[
Good advice. The chance for success is improved if the scion is slightly fatter than the rootstock, unlike the scion pictured.
Good advice. The chance for success is improved if the scion is slightly fatter than the rootstock, unlike the scion pictured.With same-size scion and rootstocks, the same same perfect match between cambian layers can be achieved by making the cut in the rootstock slightly off-center. This often happens even when I don't try!
Great job with your mango grafts, gents. Now I'm the only one still in the gutter :-[You are not in that gutter club alone :(
These aren't my grafts but after wasting 30mins or so browsing the section at Lowes, I came across these two mango trees for sale. Got me thinking to myself 'WTH am I or other members here doing wrong with our failed grafts and these two successful?' Of course there are lots of other factors, but this just makes me wanna kick my own a$$ a bit harder :('
This beauty of a graft belongs to a Keitt tree...
(http://s14.postimage.org/jmz0e1jjh/20120619_112953.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jmz0e1jjh/)
(http://s14.postimage.org/kdrqjtlwt/20120619_113215.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kdrqjtlwt/)
Gold Nugget tree.
(http://s17.postimage.org/mp8mqc763/20120619_113132.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mp8mqc763/)
Has anyone besides Enduser been successful in grafting any Mameys??? I was speaking with a gentleman from a nursery and I inquired about methods of grafting Mameys successfully and he kindly refused to tell me. He told me it is a secret. So far I am 0 - 10.
Tim, those are some hideously ugly grafts! Does make you wonder how they survived.I couldn't believe my eyes peering through that hole either, some hideous grafts indeed. I wonder if these two will grow strong enough a trunk to brace the elements.
Dry wind is always a problem in SoCal especially for fleshy plants like mango. One method that works is putting a plastic bag around the graft and scion with some moist paper towel inside. Avoid cooking the scion by putting a brown paper bag or newspaper over the plastic bag.
I've not tasted any home grown mango to understand all the excitement in this forum over mangos. I also don't have space for anything now.
Ah, it's Fang like the compass directions ESWN.
Leave parts of several leaves on your mamey-sapote scions. Clear plastic bag, under around 70% shade, about one month, in summer. Waste of time in winter.
that looks wild! like a pizza slice graft!!
Adam,
Going to try the tri graft (pizza cut :o) Opuntia this weekend possibly. Will update with pics... now just trying to figure how to mark the sections.
Below is a pic of my poly-stock graft onto a Maha Chanok seedling. I aspire to grow a MC seedling as Harry has done
There are different ways to remove apical dominance. You can cut off the growing tip where the growth inhibiting hormone is produced. You can also try to cut the bark a little above the lower graft to stop the hormone from reaching it. The the lower graft will start growing. Another way is let the plant grow large enough that the growing tip is too far away to inhibit the lower graft. Maybe that's not what you want.
If you do cut above the graft, you should realize that you're cutting the phloem that feeds the graft nutrients from the leaves. There's some danger of the graft dying if it's already weak.
Hi Chris,
You done an excellent job on them grafts 8)
Multi-root grafted trees will grow faster, uptake more nutrient from the soil, resistant to high winds, more draught tolerant and high productivity. 8) which is definitely a plus ;)
Thanks for sharing :)
Hi Chris,
You done an excellent job on them grafts 8)
Multi-root grafted trees will grow faster, uptake more nutrient from the soil, resistant to high winds, more draught tolerant and high productivity. 8) which is definitely a plus ;)
Thanks for sharing :)
I know this is a dumb question, but what did you mean by a multi-root grafted tree?
Inarch grafting, used to graft 1 more more additional rootstocks to an existing tree. So they have multiple roostocks which means a stronger tree.
Hi Renee,Hi Chris,
You done an excellent job on them grafts 8)
Multi-root grafted trees will grow faster, uptake more nutrient from the soil, resistant to high winds, more draught tolerant and high productivity. 8) which is definitely a plus ;)
Thanks for sharing :)
I know this is a dumb question, but what did you mean by a multi-root grafted tree?
Pancrazio - this is a great site with TONS of info on citrus grafting: http://citrus.forumup.org/ (http://citrus.forumup.org/)
Pancrazio-
I'm in no way an expert, but I can tell you what has worked for me. I have about a 100% take when I graft on rootstock tips which have pushed relatively recently and tips are still green/have not hardened yet. These young rootstock shoots seem to heal fast and attach quickly to the graft. In my experience, try to funnel all growth energy to the new grafts (pinch off any stray growth on rootstock). My Satsuma grafts were actually fruit stems attached to fruit at the market! lol Good luck you your citrus grafts :) :)
I just wanted to leave you with one tip. In my experience, I have found that if you decapitate the multi-rootstocks at an early age/too early, they will die
Renee, I agree with everyone else in that you can become a great grafter as well. I'm actually still gaining my sea legs. LOL! ;) ;D
It's only been a bit over a month since last pics posted, but growth on all multi-rootstock trees have been phenomenal! Some have had 2 flushes of growth!
Sorry it took a while, everyone. Pics as promised:
1) First 4 pics are of a Mallika cleft graft. Total of 2 extra rootstocks. 1 beheaded near soil line, 1 above, with "head" still attached.
(http://s10.postimage.org/b6z0bhx1h/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_030.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/b6z0bhx1h/)
2)
(http://s10.postimage.org/bxrqh9zet/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_031.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bxrqh9zet/)
3)
(http://s10.postimage.org/icqrdy64l/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_032.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/icqrdy64l/)
4)a
(http://s10.postimage.org/6owpjegzp/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_033.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6owpjegzp/)
5)Pics 5,6,7-Keitt seedling with total of 3 rootstocks.
(http://s10.postimage.org/oszq41eo5/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_034.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/oszq41eo5/)
6)
(http://s10.postimage.org/4n0tiw8ed/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_035.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4n0tiw8ed/)
7)
(http://s10.postimage.org/jk9ajwlmt/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_037.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jk9ajwlmt/)
8) 8,9,10,11- Pics of Glenn airlayer
(http://s10.postimage.org/kb20poo05/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_038.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/kb20poo05/)
9)
(http://s10.postimage.org/ebe9m137p/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_039.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ebe9m137p/)
10)
(http://s10.postimage.org/ywt1dxksl/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_040.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ywt1dxksl/)
11)
(http://s10.postimage.org/qftj30g3p/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_041.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/qftj30g3p/)
12) 12 & 13-Maha Chanok seedling saved from the brink of death with multi-rootstocks and now growing vigorously.
(http://s10.postimage.org/m7yqu9eo5/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_042.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/m7yqu9eo5/)
13)
(http://s10.postimage.org/ak4ozppj9/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_044.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/ak4ozppj9/)
14) 14--19- ataulfo aka honey/manila seedling.
(http://s10.postimage.org/47pjpvmh1/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_045.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/47pjpvmh1/)
15)
(http://s10.postimage.org/6djukdpxh/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_046.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6djukdpxh/)
16)
(http://s10.postimage.org/9ykbhcjut/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_047.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/9ykbhcjut/)
17)
(http://s10.postimage.org/sfeq85zt1/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_048.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sfeq85zt1/)
18)
(http://s10.postimage.org/t67gdy26d/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_049.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/t67gdy26d/)
19)
(http://s10.postimage.org/a2e4xlpc5/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_050.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/a2e4xlpc5/)
20) 20,21,22- Julie airlayer
(http://s10.postimage.org/57kfzbr0l/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_051.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/57kfzbr0l/)
21)
(http://s10.postimage.org/5mvpsccxx/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_052.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5mvpsccxx/)
22)
(http://s10.postimage.org/klj6jvybp/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_053.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/klj6jvybp/)
23) 23, 24- Keow savoy seedling. This seedling was saved from the brink of death by multi-rootstock! It now has giant leaves n growing vigorously.
(http://s10.postimage.org/xe7ajt9xh/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_054.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/xe7ajt9xh/)
24)
(http://s10.postimage.org/40bk4877p/Grafting_n_hike_to_Tarzan_pools_055.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/40bk4877p/)
So here's an odd question. How come when I click on the photos in this post, postimages' website has ads for porn along with your photo haha
QuoteSo here's an odd question. How come when I click on the photos in this post, postimages' website has ads for porn along with your photo haha
I had to take a look, I didnt see any actual porn, the free web posting site had ads for erectile dysfunction and stuff like that. down below, the pictures did not link to any porn sites, they were just pictures of sexy girls , no nudity. one picture linked to a dating site.
Of course the ads I see may be completely different as the advertising is directed towards specific IP. I always find this kind of funny, when you see these ads for "Find local Women in the DR" and you see pictures of women that no way look Dominican.
Also I did some research into some electronic equipment months ago, and now I often get adds on many sites for that kind of gear. I hate how they track you online. if anything I should be seeing ads for mangoes and fertilizer and that sort of thing, not IPTV set top boxes.
Congratulations, feels good eh?Totally- It gives me great encouragement!! I had been feeling discouraged since none of my mango grafts had taken to this point. I actually think one more may be viable still too. I unwrapped them and one more is still very green but hasn't pushed yet so I may be at 67% which is amazing. Maybe it is because they are truly 'Super Carrie' scions...
Congratulations, feels good eh?Totally- It gives me great encouragement!! I had been feeling discouraged since none of my mango grafts had taken to this point. I actually think one more may be viable still too. I unwrapped them and one more is still very green but hasn't pushed yet so I may be at 67% which is amazing. Maybe it is because they are truly 'Super Carrie' scions...
I've only got Avocados grafts to take, which are softer wood than Mangos. My mango grafts have all died. Your success gives me hope that I can graft some mangos too...someday... :-)
The first steps of a master grafter ;) Congratullations!
The first steps of a master grafter ;) Congratullations!
Hola Felipe,
Thanks ;D Guess who inspired me to do a deep cleft graft ??? You did!!! Remember that deep cleft graft that Sr. Domingos did and you posted a pic 8) I done the same and it's kick'n mighty fine ;D ;D ;D So, this graft is dedicated to you, Felipe :) Thanks a bunch for sharing that pic :)
Saludos ;)
The first steps of a master grafter ;) Congratullations!
Hola Felipe,
Thanks ;D Guess who inspired me to do a deep cleft graft ??? You did!!! Remember that deep cleft graft that Sr. Domingos did and you posted a pic 8) I done the same and it's kick'n mighty fine ;D ;D ;D So, this graft is dedicated to you, Felipe :) Thanks a bunch for sharing that pic :)
Saludos ;)
What is a deep cleft graft? 2 inches?
Congratulations! After my mango graft experiments this summer I rate looking for swollen buds on scions as important. Some graft videos show them stripping 8 inches of leaves from scion wood one month before they cut the scion wood off the tree. This stimulates budding (swollen buds) This is optimum and what a serious grafting people in India or Africa was doing. Harder for us at home to time and coordinate IIRC this was the 4 part Senegal mango graft video on youtube
Peace Corps Senegal: Mango Grafting (4 of 4) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=et3-BaxmQoI#ws)
How do you keep the scion aligned while you're wrapping. I find that a bit tricky. Do you a small clip?
Congrats Steven!
-Luke
Mangos definitely want to be grafted in the hottest months for a successful take and development. I can't go there every day, so I choose a scion with the fattest buds...which haven't started to push, only about to push. After, two weeks, the scion started to show signs that it will sprout soon. The scion sprouted 4 shoots and i only left the strongest shoot...the rest was removed.
Howdy Zands,
Thanks :) The depth is definitely around 2 inches or more. I will keep you posted, when i unwrap the graft. The material that i used to wrap the graft...normal plastic strip and i did bag the graft ;) Mangos definitely want to be grafted in the hottest months for a successful take and development. I can't go there every day, so I choose a scion with the fattest buds...which haven't started to push, only about to push. After, two weeks, the scion started to show signs that it will sprout soon. The scion sprouted 4 shoots and i only left the strongest shoot...the rest was removed.
Zands, the fatter the buds, the better for a successful graft. I once saw a presentation from a friend about mangos...and he did say that when a mango is grafted without proper swollen buds on the scion, the graft will take, but will not sprout. Removing the leaves will definitely speed up the process for the buds to get fat and ready for grafting...I reckon with epi's, you should use young(scion) fully developed buds to take...I haven't trialed mango epi's , yet. I need to do that someday and shine some light on this issue :)
Congratulation!
Since i saw several graft of yours i didn't expect that this was your first mango graft!
It's pretty exciting to be able to reproduce a new specie.
I agree on the heat required. Here the best month is july, without any doubt. You haven't only to think about the heat needed for the scion to take, but also about having enought heat to let the growt sprout to harden well before winter!
Wow fellow inmates- so great everyone to see such success in grafting mangos!
I'm still 2 for 13 myself - they'd have cut me from the majors by now.... :'(
My problem was too much heat (in the desert) when I grafted. Really by May it's almost too late here to graft. I had a 3rd graft take but during a June heat wave, it just couldn't and didn't survive. The other two are doing great, and partly shaded for now.
Thanks for all the good advice, everyone....
Fanglish
Thanks for all that and the informations on the 2" deep cleft grafting. I see other kinds grafting that is also done with 1.5-2 inches of contact. Spring and summer heat + their greater biological activity is best for grafting results but I can get swollen buds on potential scion wood next week here. It is still warm enough here (Florida) to successfully graft in my untutored opinion. The success rate may be lower but can still graft ...talking mangoes here/
Hi Zands,
Your welcome :)
1.5-2 inch range is more than enough for a successfully take, Larger the area of cambium contact ;) Yeah, since it's still warm in Florida...you can most definitely get them to push 8) Citrus is another one that loves to be grafted in summer and heal freak'n fast :o Late summer is also great to graft canistel ;) Just running my mouth here ;D ;D ;DFellow members...I created a new type of graft and i will share soon...it's going to be EPIC!!!
Hey Tim, I'll definitely take that off your hands if you still have that available. I'll always go for the sure bet. Is that the Lemon Zest graft? If I get this tree, I would like to add multiple rootstocks towns it stronger. Thanks for the offer Tim!
Simon
Update on the Lemon Zest & Timatayo grafts ... (both grafts were done using really young tender scions~not harden). Did 5 grafts so far this year and only 2 takes, 2 fails, 1 got destroyed by something.
Simon - what do you think? Graft your own or take this off my hands?
(http://s16.postimage.org/i4drqqey9/20120925_172218.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/i4drqqey9/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/z66lstttd/20120925_172309.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/z66lstttd/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/tw1n1j9kh/20120925_172339.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/tw1n1j9kh/)
This is a Timotayo mango side veneer graft done back in July, trying to push it's 2nd time since.
(http://s16.postimage.org/dmbgymywh/20120925_172617.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dmbgymywh/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/8oxwdiwxd/20120925_172709.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/8oxwdiwxd/)
Steven - where's this new grafting technique you mentioned? Would love to see it.
Wow.....that is some long a$$ grafting. I don't know how you get such an even cut for long a stretch of scion. You are a greater man than I....in the grafting world, anyway. I'll have to try this method. Do tell your secrets to long thin slicing.
Tim,
Wicked sleek graftmanship skillz man.
Thanks for posting, and giving us the skinny on this long skinny graft.
aiwelaweka - are you sure that's your first time? Congrats on your successful takes...Very impressive stats for a beginner.
Adam - you know you're sick when one of your plants has its own garden chair ;D
Adam - you know you're sick when one of your plants has its own garden chair ;D
LOL Tim,
I just set it on a chair for the photo!
it would get too dry up there on the chair.
But my yard is a mess as you can see from the pics. And yes...I'm sick...I will have cherapu seedlings basically sleeping next to me in bed on the coldest nights of this winter!
aiwelaweka - are you sure that's your first time? Congrats on your successful takes...Very impressive stats for a beginner.
Adam - you know you're sick when one of your plants has its own garden chair ;D
Sweet!!!! Now you've got a regular NDM ;D . Do you know what the seedling was?
Good work! Mangoes are harder to graft towards the end of summer. Looks like you did a great job, especially considering that it sprouted that vigorously in only 2 weeks!
Shelf graft, is what Eunice called it and it is what she uses for grafting mangoes and perhaps other trees.
here is the graft I like to do for loquat sometimes.
(http://www.hibiscusworld.com/howie/graft1.jpg)
Steven, thank you for the heads up. Looking forward to the details of your modified graft.
Adam, I'm actually thinking of trying this graft on the annonas scions I just got from you. I know that grafting season is way gone, but experimenting season is never ending. :)
Tim, I've bee trying to find the posts you were talking about without success. Are they already gone or are there certains search terms I could use to get to them? Thanks in advance.
BTW, credits of the pictures that I posted here go to user "handarius" from Figs4Fun forum and I watermarked them purposedly.
here is the graft I like to do for loquat sometimes.
(http://www.hibiscusworld.com/howie/graft1.jpg)
Thanks, Adam and Steven. I'm convinced although I don't agree with "If me and Adam can do this method successfully, so can you". :) Newb is newb and that's what I am right now! But I'll catch up with you guys one day!
I'll try this side wedge graft after I'm done experimenting with the above shelf graft.
It seems to me that the shelf graft would be difficult to make. The shelf cuts on the scion would need to be exactly the same distance apart as the shelf cuts on the rootstock for both horizontal shelves to heal. If not, the scion rests on one shelf while the other has no contact. And the angles on all six cuts would need match for a perfect graft.
It might be a success graft on that one shelf, and it does look strong, so might have it's place when that is needed. Much simpler are the common cleft and veneer grafts. Makes no sense to complicate the graft unless needed.
John
It seems to me that the shelf graft would be difficult to make. The shelf cuts on the scion would need to be exactly the same distance apart as the shelf cuts on the rootstock for both horizontal shelves to heal. If not, the scion rests on one shelf while the other has no contact. And the angles on all six cuts would need match for a perfect graft.
It might be a success graft on that one shelf, and it does look strong, so might have it's place when that is needed. Much simpler are the common cleft and veneer grafts. Makes no sense to complicate the graft unless needed.
John
I'm just visualizing this in my head and have not tried it yet , but if you get the scion, and place it upside down next to the end of the rootstock, and flush the ends, you can cut or score both the scion and rootstock at the same time, and precisely at the exact distance.
the next step would be to just cut them as close to the middle as possible length wise.
have u heard of grafting by simply making a flat cut? like placing two table tops on each other?
I've heard from a few friends of Adolph Grimal, that he was an engineer, and always tinkering with grafts. supposedly he did this graft, and applied splints so the root stock and scion wouldn't be jostled. Apparently these grafts were a success.
This is a picture of a side veneer graft I did back on July 17th. It is a piece of Maha Chanok budwood I got from Harry.Is that the whitefly damage I see on that mango?
I finally unwrapped it today...I figured >3 months of patience was good enough since it had not pushed any growth.
I figured it was dead. It is green as can be and actually had a few small green swollen buds. It looked well healed so I guess time will tell.....
(http://s9.postimage.org/uwof5uekb/2012_11_05_13_27_30.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/uwof5uekb/)
I'm preparing for my first attempts at grafting and will most likely try to graft from my Holiday avocado on to root stock from seeds I have sprouted.
I would appreciate any advice on what would be the easiest type of grafting method for me to try.
I'm preparing for my first attempts at grafting and will most likely try to graft from my Holiday avocado on to root stock from seeds I have sprouted.
I would appreciate any advice on what would be the easiest type of grafting method for me to try.
probably veneer or cleft, wrapped with paraflim or buddy tape.
the scion will bust through when it's ready to grow.
Hi JeffMD,
Are you going to graft avo's now in winter?
Hi JeffMD,
Are you going to graft avo's now in winter?
No, I'm just slowly preparing for doing it in the spring - the root stock will probably be ready by then.
Of course, that all depends on whether or not I get distracted by something else. ;D
super cool Steven. The graft looks great.
I imagine you could graft annonas like this...also loquat.
I have a method for grafting loquat that works very well..I guess it's called a wedge graft? I just basically do a cleft graft/mixed with a veneer. It's hard to explain, but easy to do.
I will post pics of how I do it soon.
Avocados can be grafted in the winter.
Here in south Florida, thousands of epicotyl cleft grafts of avocado are done each winter, when most other species cannot be grafted. Keeps the grafting crew busy.
The rootstocks are still red and very tender when grafted onto.
It is surprisingly hard to find good large images online of various cuts made in different types of grafts. I guess I am desiring to see more detailed pictures of grafters making the cuts, finished cuts and how the scion and rootstock fit together... It helps me immensely just seeing someone else do it, cause while there are numerous text tutorials, a picture is worth more words by a 1000.
So here is a dedicated thread to grafting pics and the various cuts we are making with them. :) Ill post some of my next cuts to get the ball rolling
John - the site is set up to only display images to registered MEMBERSOh, I had no idea. Registering is free - I highly recommend it. -John
How long does it generally take for parafilm to breakdown (assuming that the parafilm is 100% exposed to sunlight)?
I grafted an unknown cherimoya/atemoya less than two weeks ago and it appears that one of the bud has forced through the parafilm. It seems to me that this is a bit early for the buds to break through.
I need to prune my Duncan mango, so I decided to try T-Bud grafting.Is that a seedling you grafted on to or an existing grafted tree? That appears to be quite low if it is already on a grafted tree. Did you just do this to a tree that is planted outdoors? If so, kind of asking for failure to graft outdoors at this time of year...
T-Bud scion wood:
(http://s8.postimage.org/6i555rgep/T_Bud_Grafting_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6i555rgep/)
Grafted mango.
(http://s13.postimage.org/mtfqak1v7/T_Bud_Grafting_008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mtfqak1v7/)
It actually seemed easier than grafting a regular bud because I could use the stem as a handle. You can get a lot of grafts out of a single piece of wood. I did 5 grafts.
Is that a seedling you grafted on to or an existing grafted tree? That appears to be quite low if it is already on a grafted tree. Did you just do this to a tree that is planted outdoors? If so, kind of asking for failure to graft outdoors at this time of year...
I need to prune my Duncan mango, so I decided to try T-Bud grafting.
T-Bud scion wood:
(http://s8.postimage.org/6i555rgep/T_Bud_Grafting_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6i555rgep/)
Grafted mango.
(http://s13.postimage.org/mtfqak1v7/T_Bud_Grafting_008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mtfqak1v7/)
It actually seemed easier than grafting a regular bud because I could use the stem as a handle. You can get a lot of grafts out of a single piece of wood. I did 5 grafts.
For t-budding the mango, you want to use the portion of the rootstock that is still green. Your best bet for rootstock that old is a side veneer.I need to prune my Duncan mango, so I decided to try T-Bud grafting.
T-Bud scion wood:
(http://s8.postimage.org/6i555rgep/T_Bud_Grafting_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6i555rgep/)
Grafted mango.
(http://s13.postimage.org/mtfqak1v7/T_Bud_Grafting_008.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/mtfqak1v7/)
It actually seemed easier than grafting a regular bud because I could use the stem as a handle. You can get a lot of grafts out of a single piece of wood. I did 5 grafts.
I have read a few articles that recommend T-grafting at like two weeks from sprouting!
Well done !!! evenmore during your "winter" season
i have been trying artocarpus grafting with limited success: just a few out of decades. That why i am interesting in learning more from your experience.
How old were the rootsocks? and what was the aftercare? did you cover the whole plant with a plastic bag?
thanks for sharing
Well done !!! evenmore during your "winter" season
i have been trying artocarpus grafting with limited success: just a few out of decades. That why i am interesting in learning more from your experience.
How old were the rootsocks? and what was the aftercare? did you cover the whole plant with a plastic bag?
thanks for sharing
Hi Rob/All
wonder if it's ok to approach/inarch graft in the winter?
Regarding the dual rootstock experiments, both of my "duallies " were a success, the merged/joined, or welded together nicely. but I have not grafted anything on them yet. they seem dormant at the moment and doesn't seem like the best time to try and graft them. I have a few questions now on the next step.
the two rootstocks still have their top parts, I have not cut one away yet. what would be the best for success, should I try and graft both of them, with the hopes one takes, then cut the other away, ( or keep the best one if they both take )? or should I graft one side, then cut the other for the additional energy it would have? I'll try and remember to get some pictures up tomorrow .
I know it can take several weeks or months for a graft that has sucessfully healed to push new growth. What are some actually proven methods to accelerate bud push in healed grafts? I currently increase sunlight, cut back rootstock (when not clefted), and introduce a small amount of 20-20-20 (six to eight weeks after initial proceedure).. I have seen results from using those, but I am wondering if its just a placebo effect??
Any one have any suggestions?
I know it can take several weeks or months for a graft that has sucessfully healed to push new growth. What are some actually proven methods to accelerate bud push in healed grafts? I currently increase sunlight, cut back rootstock (when not clefted), and introduce a small amount of 20-20-20 (six to eight weeks after initial proceedure).. I have seen results from using those, but I am wondering if its just a placebo effect??
Any one have any suggestions?
Timing and vigor of rootstock. T-budding mangoes in nov/dec leads to explosive growth when spring rolls round. High vigor rootstock will also yield strong growth.
If you could figure out a way to encourage cambium growth (eg, via hormones, or temp control via greenhouse) to where the graft quickly forms a very strong union, that would likely contribute to strong sprouting.I know it can take several weeks or months for a graft that has sucessfully healed to push new growth. What are some actually proven methods to accelerate bud push in healed grafts? I currently increase sunlight, cut back rootstock (when not clefted), and introduce a small amount of 20-20-20 (six to eight weeks after initial proceedure).. I have seen results from using those, but I am wondering if its just a placebo effect??
Any one have any suggestions?
I got some sugar apple scions of a few varieties, from CA and slapped them all over this 2-3 yr old atemoya seedling.Adam, that is crazy. I put a few grafts on some seedlings and thought that was too many, you have quite a few. Anyway, what has your temps been, and what kind of shade/ sun do you have them under?
(http://s23.postimg.cc/vfrupzzg7/4_4_13_006.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/vfrupzzg7/)
I got some sugar apple scions of a few varieties, from CA and slapped them all over this 2-3 yr old atemoya seedling.Adam, that is crazy. I put a few grafts on some seedlings and thought that was too many, you have quite a few. Anyway, what has your temps been, and what kind of shade/ sun do you have them under?
(http://s23.postimg.cc/vfrupzzg7/4_4_13_006.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/vfrupzzg7/)
I grafted these atemoyas (AP) ~3-4 weeks ago. The scions are pushing and the largest bud is close to an inch. The rubber band was starting to restrict the growth so I removed it. Should I wrap the exposed part of the union with another layer of parafilm to prevent bacteria/fungi from getting in?You could have wrapped the scion in parafilm and didn't need to put a bag over it. If the graft took then the parafilm is not necessary. There may be danger of the graft falling off if the top piece grows too fast and gets too heavy. So many people let the new shoots get a foot long before taking off the rubber band/grafting tape. You could just leave it and the wound will grow together better when the scion produces some food to do it with.
more Cempedak epicotyl grafts onto jackfruit seedlings. I just use the jackfruit seedlings sitting under the jjackfruit trees from fallen fruits. I dig them up carefully to not damage the tap root, and make sure they are old enough to have a semi wood stem at epi region, and young enough to still have nutrients in the seed.How old were the seedlings you used please?
Im getting about 25% success rate with this, and really loving the simplicity of the epicotyl graft. Right now ive just been working with jackfruits and cempedak grafts, but I would like to expand and start working with Durian, Mamey Sapote, Abiu, Avocado, etc... just about anything with a large seed that has a strong epicotyl at birth
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/67896_1985471592753_1157102410_n.jpg)
@ ASaffron did you use cleft graft? Very nice grafts.
i might want to do something like that to my avocado tree that doesn;t want to flower this year. what's the best method to change varieties on branches?
thanks
This is my 1st Avacado Veneer Graft .Mexicola Onto Unknown Seedling.
(http://s13.postimg.cc/4uc8uf1ab/IMG_20130405_221756_523.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/4uc8uf1ab/)
Thanks Thera! How long before I would know for sure? Graft was done 3/12/2013... here is photo from that day:
the biggest scion is way ahead of the rest! Looks like about 3 failed!
Still waiting to unwrap the rest...I'll post pics when it's all done.
(http://s7.postimg.cc/7076uk9xj/4_22_13_005.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/7076uk9xj/)
(http://s21.postimg.cc/j9kypsthf/4_22_13_006.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/j9kypsthf/)
(http://s16.postimg.cc/xes28b6u9/4_22_13_007.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/xes28b6u9/)
...
The sugar apple variety (cenjerto?) all took but eventually withered. I think I used an atemoya rootstock...and the sugar apple didn't appreciate it?
...
BTW, Adam, if the scions are from Mr Minh from Westminster, CA, then that maybe his Vietnamese Atemoya and not a Sugar Apple. And in which case, your first impression that it would be an atemoya would be correct.
BTW, Adam, if the scions are from Mr Minh from Westminster, CA, then that maybe his Vietnamese Atemoya and not a Sugar Apple. And in which case, your first impression that it would be an atemoya would be correct.
Mr. Mihn is not from Westminster he is from Santa Ana 92704 and his atemoya is his own signature variety not the Vietnamese atemoya that's been floating around in Socal for 25 years.
BTW, Adam, if the scions are from Mr Minh from Westminster, CA, then that maybe his Vietnamese Atemoya and not a Sugar Apple. And in which case, your first impression that it would be an atemoya would be correct.
Mr. Mihn is not from Westminster he is from Santa Ana 92704 and his atemoya is his own signature variety not the Vietnamese atemoya that's been floating around in Socal for 25 years.
So sorry for the confusion, JF. Would you have any idea as to how Mr. Minh created this winner variety?
May the force be with you!!
Soon I will start to reveal my secrets to grafting Jaboticaba!!
I'm almost ready!!
Maybe by the end of this season!!
Please keep us posted on your progress!!!
I want the world to get excited about grafting Myrciarias!!! (Plinias too ;) )
A few pic's of some wood I received the other day and grafted on two small paulista seedlings I have in the ground.
Beautiful grafts and photography!
Thank you Thera and Scott. It's in large 20 or 25 gallon pot. I'm still debating whether to put it in the ground or not. Best of luck on your grafts Scott.Great job!!! I just germinated a few Jaboticaba seeds that are about 3 inches tall with 3 sets of leaves....I hope some day to get to where you are!! Congrats
Robert,(http://s11.postimg.cc/641inglgv/green.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/641inglgv/)
looking good...I hope they push for you...but heed this advice...
they can take months to push....or less than 2 weeks...
They can also stay green, and still fail.
They can also push new growth, then die back, only to resprout and survive....and of course, to make matters more confusing, they can push out growth, and then die back, only to fail.
also I'd also use cleft grafts exclusively. (Its my fav graft anyway...lol)
Adam, here are a couple photos of the Kimber Custard apple grafts, the green one pushed out after 3 months, the red came out within a few weeks. The red jabo took a few months but put out this big flush, not sure if it will keep, but I did do cleft grafts on all of them.
Cool Graft's Mark, thank for posting pic's good luck with continued growth on your grafts. It's been a funny year for me with my graft's, some outright died right away others take then fail actually have had quite a few graft's do that on me this year! :-\ ??? ::) 8) Glad to see some having success! ;)Scott, I had quite a few failures, most of the sugar apples I tried didn't make it. Cherimoya and Atemoya are fine, but the scions I got from Florida didn't make it, they are just on a different schedule. I still have a Florida hass from the spring that is still green but no buds, also some Illamas. I brought back white sapote, and loquat scions that I got from Adam in Florida that all took. I guess we can just keep trying.
Adam, the Peluchi or Feluchi and Avri loquats took fine, I can't wait to taste them.(http://s23.postimg.cc/xisb86nc7/red1.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/xisb86nc7/)
The white sapotes I got from you were Skipper, and Smathers, they both took also. The wooly leave sapotes budded out right away and then died back.
I also got one of the Giant Mexican sugar apples to take. The other annonas eventually didn't pull through. Here are the photos of some of them. Thanks again.
(http://s13.postimg.cc/l6dkhtts3/IMG_6906.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/l6dkhtts3/)
(http://s12.postimg.cc/sokjawn0p/IMG_6915.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/sokjawn0p/)
(http://s13.postimg.cc/sdjurfu2r/IMG_6916.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/sdjurfu2r/)
(http://s9.postimg.cc/j8kop6v5n/IMG_6917.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/j8kop6v5n/)
(http://s12.postimg.cc/g14rye83t/IMG_6918.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/g14rye83t/)
(http://s8.postimg.cc/8xfmotnkh/IMG_6920.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/8xfmotnkh/)
(http://s16.postimg.cc/e0f74c72p/IMG_6923.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/e0f74c72p/)
(http://s9.postimg.cc/iyd65ugjf/IMG_6924.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/iyd65ugjf/)
(http://s12.postimg.cc/qf10dw3gp/IMG_6925.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/qf10dw3gp/)
(http://s7.postimg.cc/l6s58z247/IMG_6927.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/l6s58z247/)
Call it pure luck, call it hot high humid weather, call it fresh scions, call it rootstock flowing with sap, regardless, this is first time in my 2-yr grafting career that I hit 100% success rate on Mango Grafting.
I grafted 10 grafts of Phimsen Man Thawai onto ataulfo rootstock. three scions actually had 3 and 4 branches on them so I just grafted the whole thing. all 10 grafts took. I have been pretty bad in Mango grafting.
I used cleft and veneer methods. My takeaway from the success besides weather, timing, and quality of scions are:
1. The scions were green from new growth (no more than 6 months old)
2. The scions were same thickness as rootstock branches, less than size of pencil.
Take a look at the picture, you will see a lot of grafts pushing. The one that has not puched is Angie (from Florida), still green though but not as fresh as I got the Thai variety. This variety is actually from a seedling that is actually much larger fruit, very sweet, fiberless, and orage colored flesh, compared to small average size that Phimsen Man produces.
I might give this method a try on other varities as I get hold of more variety scions.
(http://s24.postimg.cc/soq4wz5g1/Mango.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/soq4wz5g1/)
Great job, that is also something I'm planning to learn to do.
Mihns atemoya did not have too many flowers but it's holding 2 fruits here is the larger one
(http://i1018.photobucket.com/albums/af304/culov/Tropica%20fruits/IMG_6717.jpg)
Mihns atemoya did not have too many flowers but it's holding 2 fruits here is the larger one
very cool JF. thanks for sharing pics.
I have a Minh, and it's grown very fast...being extremely vigorous.
its been flowering quite a bit, but not setting any fruits...being that it was just grafted this year, I wasn't hand pollinating at all....maybe next year I'll start trying to pollinate.
I hope it performs well in FL! I believe it will be a nice new variety for our state!
It's super vigorous! I've had to prune it three times this year ironically the tree that fruited and flower the most was from scions I grafted this March onto my in ground three year old cherimoya seedling. The fruit is very large and probably one of the best atemoya. It took him a long time to find it.
Behl, nice work!!! I will stop by next week to check it out. Let me know when you're available.
I cant find my original post of mango grafts, but wanted to report back here that all 10 out of 10 grafts that took are healthy and are now pushing for 2nd flush.
Harry, yes, they all survived. I cant beleive it.
Hey Behl - a really big bird tweeted you've successfully grafted soursop onto Cherimoya, can you please share a few pictures? ;Dnot true, a.reticulata, we are waiting for your results....any luck??
Hey Behl - a really big bird tweeted you've successfully grafted soursop onto Cherimoya, can you please share a few pictures? ;D
Did u get any fruit set? Where did u get the scions from?Sorry I meant Illama (diversifolia) and custard apple (reticulata). I got the reticulata from a tree I've had in the ground. And the diversifolia from a guy here in San Diego. No fruit set on the newly grafted ones, but had the reticulata fruit set last winter and ate some in the spring.
I got a 5 branch scion that took, that too on a mango!Your Behl Cherimoya I grafted earlier this year is pretyy huge. I can't remember the parentage of it. Can't wait to taste it.
Your Behl Cherimoya I grafted earlier this year is pretyy huge. I can't remember the parentage of it. Can't wait to taste it.
Your Behl Cherimoya I grafted earlier this year is pretyy huge. I can't remember the parentage of it. Can't wait to taste it.
My Behl scion produced two flowers, but neither set this year... I expect it will give fruit next year.
Update on the topwork grafts I did on my grandma's cherrimoya tree from March this year. Most of the budwood I got from Nullzero(Thanks). Got a few fruits hanging on right now. I think they are lisa and African Pride. Sadly, no Cangrejo's sugar apple.Those scions are from my trees.
(http://s23.postimg.cc/bvcd8zx7b/20130425_145308.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/bvcd8zx7b/)
(http://s12.postimg.cc/teqw21h7d/20131021_102405.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/teqw21h7d/)
(http://s22.postimg.cc/f25zpr1q5/20131021_103414.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/f25zpr1q5/)
(http://s17.postimg.cc/uoo5sr9h7/20131021_103334.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/uoo5sr9h7/)
(http://s24.postimg.cc/thudvik5d/20131021_104117.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/thudvik5d/)
(http://s21.postimg.cc/zg0ccnvqb/20131021_104327.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/zg0ccnvqb/)
(http://s7.postimg.cc/4v4n2ihmf/20131021_104217.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/4v4n2ihmf/)
Max
...
(http://s21.postimg.cc/zg0ccnvqb/20131021_104327.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/zg0ccnvqb/)
...
...
(http://s21.postimg.cc/zg0ccnvqb/20131021_104327.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/zg0ccnvqb/)
...
Max, this one looks like a Minh Atemoya.
...
(http://s21.postimg.cc/zg0ccnvqb/20131021_104327.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/zg0ccnvqb/)
...
Max, this one looks like a Minh Atemoya.
yes it is, I gave it to Nullzy to distribute.
I went back to my grandma's house and check on the graft that looks like Minh's atemoya. I have it labeled as a Lisa, so will see.
MAX
Update on the topwork grafts I did on my grandma's cherrimoya tree from March this year. Most of the budwood I got from Nullzero(Thanks). Got a few fruits hanging on right now. I think they are lisa and African Pride. Sadly, no Cangrejo's sugar apple.
(http://s23.postimg.cc/bvcd8zx7b/20130425_145308.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/bvcd8zx7b/)
Congrats Max on the successful grafts. There was a labeling error made with the cangrenjo and minhs. It was good to hear success with the distributed wood from JF.
Congrats Max on the successful grafts. There was a labeling error made with the cangrenjo and minhs. It was good to hear success with the distributed wood from JF.
Thank you very much to all you guys for making it happen! JF, Nullzero, and Behl.
JF, I will have some reticulata scion wood from Belize, maybe some "Giant Mexican Sugar Apple and a diversifolia, and this pictured red sugar apple that will be ready in the spring if you would like to trade. Also attached is a photo of the reticulata grafted on to a cherimoya.Congrats Max on the successful grafts. There was a labeling error made with the cangrenjo and minhs. It was good to hear success with the distributed wood from JF.
Thank you very much to all you guys for making it happen! JF, Nullzero, and Behl.
Thanks Max for reminding us of Behl's help. All I ask is you guys pass the scions around. This year I plan to spread some reticulata scions that grow and fruit in our area. I have several selections from Yucatan(Hunucma Amarilla) from El Caiman(Cuban Red) which is now holding fruits.
JF, I will have some reticulata scion wood from Belize, maybe some "Giant Mexican Sugar Apple and a diversifolia, and this pictured red sugar apple that will be ready in the spring if you would like to trade. Also attached is a photo of the reticulata grafted on to a cherimoya.Congrats Max on the successful grafts. There was a labeling error made with the cangrenjo and minhs. It was good to hear success with the distributed wood from JF.
Thank you very much to all you guys for making it happen! JF, Nullzero, and Behl.
Thanks Max for reminding us of Behl's help. All I ask is you guys pass the scions around. This year I plan to spread some reticulata scions that grow and fruit in our area. I have several selections from Yucatan(Hunucma Amarilla) from El Caiman(Cuban Red) which is now holding fruits.
(http://s18.postimg.cc/50ujh7rbp/Kampong_Mauve.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/50ujh7rbp/)
Red Sugar Apple
(http://s18.postimg.cc/au4lhs2z9/redcustard.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/au4lhs2z9/)
Reticulata graft on Cherimoya
This year I plan to spread some reticulata scions that grow and fruit in our area. I have several selections from Yucatan(Hunucma Amarilla) from El Caiman(Cuban Red) which is now holding fruits.
I got bored and decided to cut open a healed graft just to see what it looks like ;D
(http://s21.postimg.cc/z2nrs43mr/IMG_4929.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/z2nrs43mr/)
(http://s21.postimg.cc/k45cxookj/IMG_4930.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/k45cxookj/)
(http://s21.postimg.cc/wsznhcuoz/IMG_4934.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/wsznhcuoz/)
(http://s21.postimg.cc/s5tlfl7c3/IMG_4935.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/s5tlfl7c3/)
(http://s21.postimg.cc/b7uktqxyb/IMG_4936.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/b7uktqxyb/)
(http://s21.postimg.cc/okxpwd2sj/IMG_4942.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/okxpwd2sj/)
(http://s21.postimg.cc/4cexodsv7/IMG_4944.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/4cexodsv7/)
(http://s21.postimg.cc/mhrw2fsdf/IMG_4945.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/mhrw2fsdf/)
(http://s21.postimg.cc/7n3ao9isj/IMG_4946.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/7n3ao9isj/)
(http://s21.postimg.cc/qgp3l9h0j/IMG_4948.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/qgp3l9h0j/)
Jeff, from the photos it appears that the new growth is coming from below the graft - on the rootstock?
Jeff, from the photos it appears that the new growth is coming from below the graft - on the rootstock?
Well, at least I didn't kill it when I cut it's top off to do the graft. :)
If the graft fails maybe the rootstock will still be around for a second attempt.
nah, I think your cado graft took. The new growth from the apical bud looks very encouraging.Thanks for the encouragement.Jeff, from the photos it appears that the new growth is coming from below the graft - on the rootstock?
Well, at least I didn't kill it when I cut it's top off to do the graft. :)
If the graft fails maybe the rootstock will still be around for a second attempt.
Nice going, Mike! I too did not know that grafts could take in the wintertime!
Not sure they would in SoCal - maybe just too cold at night and not warm
enough during the day, but who knows????
Any reports from the L.A. area?
Gary
My first graft to take of mangos it is a Mahaachanok budwood on a lemon meringue treeWow! Great job, I have never gotten a graft to take, I usually use whip and tongue or cleft, I wrap it tightly with saran wrap and then put wax over it.
(http://s27.postimg.cc/4a2fyqh3z/004.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/4a2fyqh3z/)
(http://s29.postimg.cc/bdcm37z8z/005.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/bdcm37z8z/)
Congrats on your graft. And thank you for starting this thread because i have a question about my graft that i hope you all can assist me with. Awhile back i made a veneer graft on an existing tree that took. It is a NDM onto my unknown tree. The graft pushed once. I didn't cut the main shoot because i read that I should let it push again before terminated the priginal shoot. Well, the tree is reading itself to fruit and now the original shoot is pushing the flowers. Did I lose my graft because of this? If so, should I wait until after fruiting to try the graft again? Thanks for any help. BYW, the graft still looks good and NOT dried out,
. . . So my question is, when does one take off the plastic, and when can I move it out of its sheltered spot, and when might I have to worry about the tightness of the teflon?. . .
One question, do you think you have enough chill hours for the Lapins to produce fruit? I would like to add something to my Minnie Royal/Royal Lee tree but I did not think anything else would produce in coastal southern CA.
Richard
guys I have 12 ft nice sized cherry tree that was planted before I bought the house last year. Is there anyone to tell is its self pollinating? I have no clue on what variety It is.
congrats warren - but i'll REALLY be impressed by your first mango graft.
MANgo graft means you can call yourself a MAN in the grafting world...
;D
Gary
guys I have 12 ft nice sized cherry tree that was planted before I bought the house last year. Is there anyone to tell is its self pollinating? I have no clue on what variety It is.
Clay,
I'm thinking that the only thing you can do right now is to wait and see if it fruits this year...if it does, then it is self-fertile. There are several varieties on Dave Wilson's Nursery website that are identified as self-fertile. It might be kind of tough to guess the variety though without seeing or tasting the fruit. At 12 feet tall though, you definitely do NOT have a tree on Zaiger dwarfing 3CR178 rootstock.
btw... isn't your tree spouting flowers right now? Mine are flowering and fruiting now.
guys I have 12 ft nice sized cherry tree that was planted before I bought the house last year. Is there anyone to tell is its self pollinating? I have no clue on what variety It is.
Clay,
I'm thinking that the only thing you can do right now is to wait and see if it fruits this year...if it does, then it is self-fertile. There are several varieties on Dave Wilson's Nursery website that are identified as self-fertile. It might be kind of tough to guess the variety though without seeing or tasting the fruit. At 12 feet tall though, you definitely do NOT have a tree on Zaiger dwarfing 3CR178 rootstock.
btw... isn't your tree spouting flowers right now? Mine are flowering and fruiting now.
WARREN!!! It maybe too soon to tell...But I spotted some bulbs coming out of the dead blossoms!!!!some with an extremely thin stim sticking out its bottom...which was weird...I'll update pics this weekend...Hopefully you guys can confirm that I didnt inherit a 13 ft Cherry tree that isnt self fertile when i bought this house lol.
This Ilama sprig is pushing. I hope it goes the distance.
(http://s25.postimg.cc/3uf1w1ezf/IMG_20140818_104852.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/3uf1w1ezf/)
(http://s25.postimg.cc/aywv52m8r/IMG_20140818_105255.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/aywv52m8r/)
(http://s25.postimg.cc/j1v1ge6u3/IMG_20140908_103542.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/j1v1ge6u3/)
This Ilama sprig is pushing. I hope it goes the distance.
(http://s25.postimg.cc/3uf1w1ezf/IMG_20140818_104852.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/3uf1w1ezf/)
(http://s25.postimg.cc/aywv52m8r/IMG_20140818_105255.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/aywv52m8r/)
(http://s25.postimg.cc/j1v1ge6u3/IMG_20140908_103542.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/j1v1ge6u3/)
In So Cal, grafting time is over Unless you got a greenhouse and maintain temps over 70 degrees at all times.
good job bob, is it still a good time to graft annona?
This Ilama sprig is pushing. I hope it goes the distance.
(http://s25.postimg.cc/3uf1w1ezf/IMG_20140818_104852.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/3uf1w1ezf/)
(http://s25.postimg.cc/aywv52m8r/IMG_20140818_105255.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/aywv52m8r/)
(http://s25.postimg.cc/j1v1ge6u3/IMG_20140908_103542.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/j1v1ge6u3/)
The other graft I did onto glabra had the condensation on the interior of the tape so I pierced the tape to air it out. The graft failed shortly there after.
How do we feel about moisture in the tape like in picture number 3. I always thought that was bad and would be wrap those, am I doing more damage than good?
the rootstock is about 3 months avg old give or take a month on each rootstock, but what do you mean they should not be dormant? also The black fungus might be anthracnose Bangkok look into that. also are you referring to cleft grafts or veneer grafts.. because the new growth gets cut away for clefts anyways so new growth starts to grow underneath the scion on the rootstock. for the veneer grafts I could see how u need the rootstock to not be dormant.. im not sure I could see it being a little too developed I just thought the pimple or whatever should be swollen in order to take a scion.
Yes the problem is not just you its your surrounding area too. So you could bathe your tree but a neighboring tree probably has it, so in no time you'd be infected again
the rootstock is about 3 months avg old give or take a month on each rootstock, but what do you mean they should not be dormant? . .
So I am wondering why my grafts keep drying after they break through should I cover them with bags to keep them more humid get some kind of misting fan.. any ideas to make this a more successful grafting area? It is located in a shade house.
For Socal timing is the key. For early mango grafts the last week of January and the month of July to the last two weeks of August......assuming you are an experience grafter. Gary has a different situation in Palm Springs but for the LA basin and San Diego this is the perfect week.Frank, I just grafted up a few mangos this last week and week and the buds are pushing nicely. As long as it is above 60 degrees things should work out.
I have been having lousy success grafting longans. I have about 15 in ground root stocks that I want to graft. So far after about 10 grafts not one has taken. I am using cleft and top wedge. I have had very good success with avo and mango, but longan is proving to the most challenging.Tough to graft Longan, better to air layer a few.
Anyone have any tips. I am thinking of shading them with a paper bag or make a bag of of punctured wax paper to see if it helps with the graft. Going to do another 10 or so grafts today and tomorrow.
I have been having lousy success grafting longans. I have about 15 in ground root stocks that I want to graft. So far after about 10 grafts not one has taken. I am using cleft and top wedge. I have had very good success with avo and mango, but longan is proving to the most challenging.
Anyone have any tips. I am thinking of shading them with a paper bag or make a bag of of punctured wax paper to see if it helps with the graft. Going to do another 10 or so grafts today and tomorrow.
I have been having lousy success grafting longans. I have about 15 in ground root stocks that I want to graft. So far after about 10 grafts not one has taken. I am using cleft and top wedge. I have had very good success with avo and mango, but longan is proving to the most challenging.
Anyone have any tips. I am thinking of shading them with a paper bag or make a bag of of punctured wax paper to see if it helps with the graft. Going to do another 10 or so grafts today and tomorrow.
I have been having lousy success grafting longans. I have about 15 in ground root stocks that I want to graft. So far after about 10 grafts not one has taken. I am using cleft and top wedge. I have had very good success with avo and mango, but longan is proving to the most challenging.
Anyone have any tips. I am thinking of shading them with a paper bag or make a bag of of punctured wax paper to see if it helps with the graft. Going to do another 10 or so grafts today and tomorrow.
I like to do whip grafts for longans. Looks better after it's healed and you get better control of cambium match up by making small incremental cuts.
These were done in mid winter before the frost.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8614/16259080348_fb07e64581_b.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7445/16259341600_df662138e9_b.jpg)
This was grafted at the same time as the one above but there were some die back after the frost. This is the second flush after the initial growth died. The graft was out in the open with no protection from the nearby foliage.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7407/16259083618_87e835900c_b.jpg)
I grafted this Grimal log onto my Sabara today. I have no idea if it can take or was an exercise in futility. Has any one had any takes on Jabo wood this size or bigger? I am just curious what my chances are.
(http://s25.postimg.cc/figv2gfiz/IMG_20140821_173231.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/figv2gfiz/)
(http://s25.postimg.cc/fxs4vh1gb/IMG_20140821_191011.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/fxs4vh1gb/)
(http://s25.postimg.cc/eu80jigt7/IMG_20140821_191127.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/eu80jigt7/)
the devil went down to Florida, he was looking for a scion to heal....
when he came across this young man sawing on a scion and grafting it hot,
and the devil jumped up on jaboticaba stump and said "boy let me tell you what....
I bet you didn't know it, but I'm a jabo grafter too,
and if you care to make a dare, I'll make a bet with you,
Now you graft a pretty good jabo boy, but give the devil his due,
I bet a jabo worth more than gold, against your soul,
cuz I think I'm better than you!"
:P
how low can you go?
here is a mulberry cleft graft, where the union got dirty.
(http://s17.postimg.cc/lcujhnv7v/IMG_1606.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/lcujhnv7v/)
(http://s17.postimg.cc/vdzdqz8az/IMG_1607.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/vdzdqz8az/)
how low can you go?
here is a mulberry cleft graft, where the union got dirty.
(http://s17.postimg.cc/lcujhnv7v/IMG_1606.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/lcujhnv7v/)
(http://s17.postimg.cc/vdzdqz8az/IMG_1607.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/vdzdqz8az/)
wow, union below soil? would it rot as it grows?
Grafting my few Jackfruit trees in full sun, will paper bags be good enough over the grafts to protect from sun?
Thanks for the info, the leaves are on. about 8 foot jackfruits, I wanted to do it now for the fact its growing almost a foot a month and i just gave them a hardy feeding so they are really taking off.
Are the 8 foot tall jacks going to be the rootstock? If they're that tall and you graft high, you won't get production where jacks tend to produce (at the base).i cut them down to 5 feet, the scions had no leaves. the rootstock being pretty much a tree has leaves on the branches i left and maybe 1 or 2 under the grafts.
I assume you're talking about leaving leaves on the scion (not the rootstock), right?
Do i have to cover the jackfruit scions from the rain or will the buddy tape be enough
(http://s9.postimg.cc/83tef0mx7/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/83tef0mx7/)
Do I get rid of this shoot under the graft or do I need it to "control the sap"?
I would nix it.
(http://s9.postimg.cc/83tef0mx7/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/83tef0mx7/)
Do I get rid of this shoot under the graft or do I need it to "control the sap"?
also, can i put them in full sun? i have them wrapped in parafilm.
If anyone who's gotten good at grafting is looking for a good cause, or just practice, and doesn't mind running afoul of a few regulations...
http://inhabitat.com/guerrilla-grafters-secretly-graft-fruit-bearing-branches-onto-san-francisco-trees/ (http://inhabitat.com/guerrilla-grafters-secretly-graft-fruit-bearing-branches-onto-san-francisco-trees/)
I saw this type of articles before and thought about it too. But then I thought about the plums and other fruits dropping and rotting on the sidewalks...
I'm not sure if pedestrians would feel like harvesting from street trees. Stealing from homes is safer since home owners make sure they're edible. The ones with do not pick signs usually have the best fruit. So maybe these street trees should have do not pick signs on them to encourage picking.
Two or three grafts on the same trunk won't grow evenly. If you already have three sturdy branches, you can graft each one with a different variety.
Where does one get those Silicon clips?
i have a successful graft... do i remove the grafting tape now or wait a bit longer. it's been a little more than a week.
(http://i.imgur.com/RtiXhIo.jpg?1)
You can tie paper towel around most of scion, except the tip.
Got my first graft to take. Its a Neelam!!
(http://s23.postimg.cc/u12xu4tzr/IMG_20151022_175535480_HDR.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/u12xu4tzr/)
Getting ready for next summer. Got 24 seedlings (one maybe dying). Testing them out in 1 gallon root pouches.
(http://s4.postimg.cc/4ti4yg0yh/IMG_20151022_175523545.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/4ti4yg0yh/)
Got my first graft to take. Its a Neelam!!
(http://s23.postimg.cc/u12xu4tzr/IMG_20151022_175535480_HDR.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/u12xu4tzr/)
Getting ready for next summer. Got 24 seedlings (one maybe dying). Testing them out in 1 gallon root pouches.
(http://s4.postimg.cc/4ti4yg0yh/IMG_20151022_175523545.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/4ti4yg0yh/)
How long ago did you graft it? What is that red material its wrapped with?
the devil went down to Florida, he was looking for a scion to heal....
when he came across this young man sawing on a scion and grafting it hot,
and the devil jumped up on jaboticaba stump and said "boy let me tell you what....
I bet you didn't know it, but I'm a jabo grafter too,
and if you care to make a dare, I'll make a bet with you,
Now you graft a pretty good jabo boy, but give the devil his due,
I bet a jabo worth more than gold, against your soul,
cuz I think I'm better than you!"
:P
BWAH!!!
next time, graft in Summer. don't take chances. we had unusual warm weather late this year that provided success to lot of folks, but prime time to graft in So Cal still is Jul thru Mid. Sep.
depending on how my growth goes, there is a possibility. key is not just fresh, but how scions were prepped before harvesting. I usually prep them for over 10 days before I harvest and gives high success rates.
next time, graft in Summer. don't take chances. we had unusual warm weather late this year that provided success to lot of folks, but prime time to graft in So Cal still is Jul thru Mid. Sep.
That is some master grafting right there. Completely amazed.
I did 15 grafts all failed. I'm hoping the last 3 I watched sapote do stick. He was very meticulous and delicate, I think I was being ham handed and just going thru the motions. Watching videos of farmers in India and Thailand whizzing thru graft after graft sitting on the ground is very deceptive. You literally need to have a surgeons focus.That is some master grafting right there. Completely amazed.
You're giving me way too much credit here, Sami. If you looked carefully at the pix, you'll see the failed cut right below the bud. That was my 1st cut and it was way too large and too high. The 2nd cut was still way too large but just about the right height. A master grafter wouldn't make such mistake.
So you know, this was my 1st budding success after at least 10 attempts. And just when I decided to document the steps for troubleshooting, it worked out nicely.
I did 15 grafts all failed. I'm hoping the last 3 I watched sapote do stick. He was very meticulous and delicate, I think I was being ham handed and just going thru the motions. Watching videos of farmers in India and Thailand whizzing thru graft after graft sitting on the ground is very deceptive. You literally need to have a surgeons focus.
I did 15 grafts all failed. I'm hoping the last 3 I watched sapote do stick. He was very meticulous and delicate, I think I was being ham handed and just going thru the motions. Watching videos of farmers in India and Thailand whizzing thru graft after graft sitting on the ground is very deceptive. You literally need to have a surgeons focus.
That has been my experience with avocado grafting. I wonder if the SoCal low humidity has something to do with it.
There is magic to grafting it all about timing and the months when you preform the grafts.
Anonas:
March - May
Mangos:
Late June - August
Avocados
Spring to Fall
That doesn't mean you'll have no takes outside of these periods but these are the months you'll have greater success.
As a beginner I would start with veneer graft it's the easiest. During the summer you don't need tp prep just time you flushes. You'll get about 4 chances during this timeThere is magic to grafting it all about timing and the months when you preform the grafts.
Anonas:
March - May
Mangos:
Late June - August
Avocados
Spring to Fall
That doesn't mean you'll have no takes outside of these periods but these are the months you'll have greater success.
Yeah, late June is when I'm planning to start again. This way I'll have til august to get better at it.
As a beginner I would start with veneer graft it's the easiest. During the summer you don't need tp prep just time you flushes. You'll get about 4 chances during this time
Sami
Julian Lara has a great video in YouTube on veneer graft.
I did 15 grafts all failed. I'm hoping the last 3 I watched sapote do stick. He was very meticulous and delicate, I think I was being ham handed and just going thru the motions. Watching videos of farmers in India and Thailand whizzing thru graft after graft sitting on the ground is very deceptive. You literally need to have a surgeons focus.
That has been my experience with avocado grafting. I wonder if the SoCal low humidity has something to do with it.
Also Another reason I like cleft grafts is that you can make cocktail trees. I'm space limited and can only have 10 mangos in ground, cleft grafting allows me to have much more variety.
Also Another reason I like cleft grafts is that you can make cocktail trees. I'm space limited and can only have 10 mangos in ground, cleft grafting allows me to have much more variety.
You can do multi-graft trees with all popular methods. If anything, cleft and whip are more limiting when it comes to this. For example, if the trunk is an inch across and have no branching for 5 ft from the ground up, you can only make 1 cleft graft at a sane height. With approach, veneer, t-bud, chip bud, you can just graft to the bare trunk, at any height you want.
This is two pictures of lucuma I grafted onto canistel on july 27 I did one more that I wrapped in parafilm it has not pushed yet. I will post picture of the graft when I unwrap them
(http://s8.postimg.cc/gjihjs5a9/001.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/gjihjs5a9/)
(http://s7.postimg.cc/h4ybnceav/002.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/h4ybnceav/)
This is two pictures of lucuma I grafted onto canistel on july 27 I did one more that I wrapped in parafilm it has not pushed yet. I will post picture of the graft when I unwrap them
(http://s8.postimg.cc/gjihjs5a9/001.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/gjihjs5a9/)
(http://s7.postimg.cc/h4ybnceav/002.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/h4ybnceav/)
Mike, or others in FL: Any luck with lucuma on canistel?
This is two pictures of lucuma I grafted onto canistel on july 27 I did one more that I wrapped in parafilm it has not pushed yet. I will post picture of the graft when I unwrap them
(http://s8.postimg.cc/gjihjs5a9/001.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/gjihjs5a9/)
(http://s7.postimg.cc/h4ybnceav/002.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/h4ybnceav/)
Mike, or others in FL: Any luck with lucuma on canistel?
I dont think there is an issue with growing lucuma in South Florida, i think the issue will be wigh it fruiting.
I am wondering if this graft is typical.
The scion was from a Carrie which is in the ground and currently about 4' tall with the thickest branch currently around 1/3". It has grown hardly at all.
The grafted scion is now on an unknown stringy cultivar (I'm guessing it's a seedling ~9 years old planted by my house PO) and the scion of the Carrie took over the water shoot and is now about 1" (or more) in diameter and has its own canopy about 3' across already. I grafted it last spring in ~ April. The pic shows the back side of the grafted branch, and the front side where the graft was made.
This is pretty aggressive growth no?
(http://s1.postimg.cc/bcp953597/graft1.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/bcp953597/)
There is no magic to grafting it's all about timing and the months when you preform the grafts.
Anonas:
March - May
Mangos:
Late June - August
Avocados
Spring to Fall
That doesn't mean you'll have no takes outside of these periods but these are the months you'll have greater success.
I'm not an expert on any of those fruit but grafting success is generally good when a tree is ready to push a vegetative flush. I prefer grafting when the temps have warmed up.That's pretty much the trick rather than going with the months. The weather these days is not predictable.
Simon
I grafted up a bunch of Birula, Calostro and Randhir last night, and will be working on some Dream today. This pic isn't representative of the average cut by any means, but I was pretty happy with how well this one lined up. Rootstock approx 3/16
(http://s28.postimg.cc/st8nmgxwp/IMG_20160223_215710.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/st8nmgxwp/)
Edited to add: Thanks!I grafted up a bunch of Birula, Calostro and Randhir last night, and will be working on some Dream today. This pic isn't representative of the average cut by any means, but I was pretty happy with how well this one lined up. Rootstock approx 3/16
(http://s28.postimg.cc/st8nmgxwp/IMG_20160223_215710.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/st8nmgxwp/)
That looks great Dominic, good luck! Btw, what rootstocks are you using?
Edited to add: Thanks!I grafted up a bunch of Birula, Calostro and Randhir last night, and will be working on some Dream today. This pic isn't representative of the average cut by any means, but I was pretty happy with how well this one lined up. Rootstock approx 3/16
(http://s28.postimg.cc/st8nmgxwp/IMG_20160223_215710.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/st8nmgxwp/)
That looks great Dominic, good luck! Btw, what rootstocks are you using?
Cherimoya from an unknown variety found at an Asian food store in the Tampa area. Here's a pic of one of the fruits if that helps. This one looks rather poor, but I can't find any other pics.
(http://s17.postimg.cc/btdf3fdmz/Screenshot_20160223_082316.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/btdf3fdmz/)
I grafted up a bunch of Birula, Calostro and Randhir last night, and will be working on some Dream today. This pic isn't representative of the average cut by any means, but I was pretty happy with how well this one lined up. Rootstock approx 3/16
(http://s28.postimg.cc/st8nmgxwp/IMG_20160223_215710.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/st8nmgxwp/)
JF - I'm still kicking around the idea of trying some cherimoya down here. I think Berto has one that should be fruiting size before too much longer, though I can't remember the variety. Even if I can't get it to fruit, I might use one to play around with breeding some better atemoya.
Adam - Thanks for the tip. Just got my kit together to get some Dream grafted, so I'll be sure to make them a bit deeper.
How long do you like to make the cuts for veneer grafts with annonas? 1-2" seems to be what I see most often, but I guess the idea is the greater the cambium area in contact the better the chances are. Are longer cuts better for veneer grafts?
As a beginner I would start with veneer graft it's the easiest. During the summer you don't need tp prep just time you flushes. You'll get about 4 chances during this time
That's funny you say that, veneer seemed to be the most complicated. I thought cleft grafting was easier. I would love to watch you do some when the time comes, that's the only way I really learn. :)
I grafted a bunch of Calostro, Birula and Randhir back on 2/23, and some of them are already pushing buds. I remember reading somewhere here that them pushing early is a bad sign. Shall I commence mourning?
I grafted a bunch of Calostro, Birula and Randhir back on 2/23, and some of them are already pushing buds. I remember reading somewhere here that them pushing early is a bad sign. Shall I commence mourning?
That's testimony of how the wood was prepped
You are ok it should leaf out in two weeks
I'm thinking mulberry fruits are so small they won't interfere with the tree's growth if you let them grow. On cuttings without roots, you should remove them.
I grafted a bunch of Calostro, Birula and Randhir back on 2/23, and some of them are already pushing buds. I remember reading somewhere here that them pushing early is a bad sign. Shall I commence mourning?
That's testimony of how the wood was prepped
You are ok it should leaf out in two weeks
40 varieties on this mango
Nice tree JF, in full bloom!
Here are some pictures of the Myrica cerifera rootstock with Myrica rubra grafts which look like they took.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BrapCvmmT8g/Vtoe3s122VI/AAAAAAAALSA/9uzI8TARIQg/s400-Ic42/20160229_175733.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SdHojWrqwEU/Vtoe_olQUXI/AAAAAAAALR4/DRoi9OqYMsk/s400-Ic42/20160229_175712.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B682kxdVJ-k/VtofF13Un1I/AAAAAAAALR8/7PPlzgKi2wk/s400-Ic42/20160229_175726.jpg)
If your location has enough humidity, you might not need the parafilm. Ask FL people to confirm.
I think if you wrap the parafilm close to the scion, there wouldn't be much condensation. Also, try to keep it cool so it doesn't transpire so much. I normally try to ignore grafts for the first month. One time the sap pushed through on the cherimoya and killed the scion. Probably should have cut an opening at the tip of the scion to let the sap run through.
Here's a graft I did recently on a mango seedling with two shoots. Should I cut the other shoot or leave it alone? My previous graft failed because I had it in full sun, the scion dried out very quickly. Going to leave this one in a shaded area.
(https://s31.postimg.cc/pzlet5x3b/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/pzlet5x3b/)
I did a few approach grafts of some annonas today, pictured here are three I did on a Big Red sugar apple. So far most annonas have been ready to separate in about 2-3wks from graft day.
(https://s13.postimg.cc/ndjpym2hv/IMG_20160928_154742.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ndjpym2hv/)
(https://s11.postimg.cc/j0xcjlyjj/IMG_20160928_154813.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/j0xcjlyjj/)
(https://s22.postimg.cc/tl9j3g3al/IMG_20160928_154852.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/tl9j3g3al/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/9aaeqxp3v/IMG_20160928_155119.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/9aaeqxp3v/)
(https://s10.postimg.cc/ly9oswpad/IMG_20160928_161019.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ly9oswpad/)
The leaves on my latest mulberry graft just dried out, probably due to the cruel heat wave, or the tree is not directing enough energy toward it. Will wait it out or try grafting later. Fortunately the scion came from another tree in the yard, so I do not have to hunt for a new scion.
Congrats! My mulberries like to start flushing out when it gets slightly less oppressively hot. My "Australian" green/white mulberry is currently pushing out and ripening fruit too. My red everbearing one (no variety name) is flushing hard and fruiting some since I hacked it back to the main branches.The leaves on my latest mulberry graft just dried out, probably due to the cruel heat wave, or the tree is not directing enough energy toward it. Will wait it out or try grafting later. Fortunately the scion came from another tree in the yard, so I do not have to hunt for a new scion.
And it took on the second try, yeah!
White mulberry is bearing fruits now, for some reason.
I did a few approach grafts of some annonas today, pictured here are three I did on a Big Red sugar apple. So far most annonas have been ready to separate in about 2-3wks from graft day.
Thank you Carlos! And thanks for all your terrific videos. Will I want to eventually have only one shoot from the graft or is it ok to have one main one for the trunk and a couple of smaller branches from the graft? Also, if you have any fotos of this kind of grafts at more advanced stages I'd LOVE to see them. :)That is the idea leave the strongest shoot, but while they are small let them grow a while longer until you can get the one a good support. I may have photos but will have to find them first
When desperate, graft crooked, so that the cambiums are guaranteed to cross each other.That's what I do a lot of the time when the sizes don't match up.
Congrats! My mulberries like to start flushing out when it gets slightly less oppressively hot. My "Australian" green/white mulberry is currently pushing out and ripening fruit too. My red everbearing one (no variety name) is flushing hard and fruiting some since I hacked it back to the main branches.The leaves on my latest mulberry graft just dried out, probably due to the cruel heat wave, or the tree is not directing enough energy toward it. Will wait it out or try grafting later. Fortunately the scion came from another tree in the yard, so I do not have to hunt for a new scion.
And it took on the second try, yeah!
White mulberry is bearing fruits now, for some reason.
When desperate, graft crooked, so that the cambiums are guaranteed to cross each other.
dang bro, i have failed every time i tried to graft mulberry.
dang bro, i have failed every time i tried to graft mulberry.
do you have the Himalayan Red?
it's one of my favorites...I'm noticing the tree grows much slower than than the Australian white....so far seems like it would be easier to keep small....I planted them at the same time, in the same row, and the red is 1/3 the size of the white.
thanks! does anyone have an image of how best to stake it? i really don't want to screw this up!
yikes! seriously? i'd be terrified of snapping it!
When desperate, graft crooked, so that the cambiums are guaranteed to cross each other.