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That is awesome that your Rollinia is doing so well. I have heard lack of humidity is a problem for the plant especially when it comes to successful pollination. Ong's Nursery told me not to plant the Rollinia in full sun because the leaves get burned. I wasn't sure that may have been because it was in a pot. I tried not to take any chances, so I planted mine last September underneath a mature palm. In the summer it gets shaded at midday and also in later afternoon by the house, so I hope that alleviates some of the problems with lack of humidity. Mine is leafing out after following Frank's advice to strip the plant in early March. I'll just have to see how the plant handles summer. It grew well at the nursery here in San Diego for the last three years that I had my eye on it.Nice size tree and fruit! How many fruit were on that tree? Was the fruit firm or snotty? I understand Rollinia are shy bloomers and low in fruit production. I am only asking because I'd like to hear other peoples experiences. I have a small tree and know that attempting to get it to bloom well, let alone fruit will be difficult in my climate. I think I see several flowers on my tree growing in now with the new growth, but only time will tell.
in california rollinia are hard to grow because they need high humidity, my rollinia is a year old and has 11 fruit starting to grow
I am sure other people will reply to this request and know of a large tree available in the L.A. area. The only large 15 gallon size I know of are at Ong's Nursery here in San Diego. I think they still had a couple the last time I was there in January. That is where I bought my tree last year. Are you going to grow this tree in a greenhouse or be prepared to cover it every winter and provide some extra heat? I lived in Northridge for several years and know how cold it gets in the valley during the winter. Also the summers are so hot and dry and those Santa Ana winters are going to be difficult on this tree. You may have difficulty in getting the tree to grow well. Good luck though!
The one most often used for a manganese deficiency is a foliage spray of manganese nitrate, manganese sulfate, or Southern Ag's Nutritional spray.
gozp, the deficiency your leaves are showing is manganese, not iron. At this time of year these "transient" Manganese deficiency symptoms are VERY common. These transient symptoms are due to a marginal supply of available manganese in the soil, which the tree roots temporarily are unable to extract enough Manganese to supply the large rapidly growing new flush of leaf growth. Normally the leaves will return to the normal dark green color as the grow flush ends, and the roots are able to once again catch up. However, you can apply a manganese spray such as Southern Ag Nutritional spray if you wish, or in most cases simply do nothing. In the rare event that the leaves still look deficient upon the completion of the flush, there is always time to apply manganese.
has anyone tried grinding up redwood pines to use as pesticides?
I did any experiment yesterday by applying to my mango tree that has little white scales. I grind the pine needles in a blender and rub it onto the mango tree. So far, it's to early to know if it will come back. Good thing about this is that it's natural as the redwood tree I have do not have any kind of insects on them at all.
Check at night. I'm going to check tonight too.Took a thorough look at both trees and didn't find any insects that might be the culprits. I have to agree with Cookie Monster on this, at least for my trees: new growth followed by some rains, resulting in a fungus.
Should I let 'em be and let nature take over? Or should I cut off the affected growth to help inspire new growth? If so, where to make the cut?
Two or three weeks ago my two mango trees, a Cogshall and a Pickering, both put forth a growth flush. But on both trees the new growth has all turned black and shriveled. Never had this before. I'm guessing fungal issue?
