Liquid Copper Fungicide...

[Mark in Texas]

OK. Looks like Kinetic is OMRI listed. I might give it a shot. Thanks for the advice.

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/kinetic-nonionic-surfactant-p-1435.html

$50 bucks!!!!!!     It's probably NIS re-labeled but because it carries the OMRI label and the organic rackteering that goes with all that chit they jump the price 4X.

Stick to Ivory liquid dish soap. 

[Cookie Monster]

Once a week right now.

Please refresh my memory...Jeff, how often are you spraying with Copper...once a week, every 2 weeks?
Thanks again!!

[Cookie Monster]

:-) Ohh well. already ordered. Looks like it should last me a while. If it allows me a clean harvest, the money is worth it. I'm not certified, but I try to stick to OMRI listed products for the sake of the folks who purchase my fruits.

OK. Looks like Kinetic is OMRI listed. I might give it a shot. Thanks for the advice.

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/kinetic-nonionic-surfactant-p-1435.html

$50 bucks!!!!!!     It's probably NIS re-labeled but because it carries the OMRI label and the organic rackteering that goes with all that chit they jump the price 4X.

Stick to Dawn liquid detergent. 

[puglvr1]

Thanks Jeff!

Mark would adding Dawn to the mix have an adverse affect on the flowers, maybe dry it up? How much are you using per gallon of water...Thanks!

[Mark in Texas]

Thanks Jeff!

Mark would adding Dawn to the mix have an adverse affect on the flowers, maybe dry it up? How much are you using per gallon of water...Thanks!

It won't affect flowers unless you get real heavy with it.  Never had a problem. Using a surfactant is like anything else - it's a trial and error thingie.  When I mix up a large batch like 20 gals. or more I do a glug-glug knowing by feel when there is too little to be effective and too much being wasteful  When I mix for a backpack I never go over 1 tsp. per gallon of NIS.   There are other types, chemistries, of surfactants or adjuvants.  Find one that works best for your application.

I use NIS for all applications - pesticides, fungicides, herbicides.

[puglvr1]

Appreciate it Mark, thanks!

[Mark in Texas]

Appreciate it Mark, thanks!

Had a brain fart.  Meant Ivory liquid dish soap, not Dawn.  (will edit and change)

[puglvr1]

I found this article from 2014 from Miami Herald while doing some research on fruit drop...

http://www.miamiherald.com/living/home-garden/article1962688.html

[puglvr1]

I came across this product by Southern Ag that I might try...it says its for both powdery mildew and anthracnose ( along with many other diseases) which is a plus in my book since I have a tree that has PM and a few others starting to show anthracnose...having one product to address both is a good thing, plus it says its for "organic use" ...

Anyone tried it before?

http://southernag.com/residential-products/garden-friendly-fungcde-12x1-pt/

"Controls on fruits and nuts:
Alternaria leaf spot, post bloom fruit drop, greasy spot, citrus canker, scab, melanose, powdery mildew, scab, flyspeck, sooty blotch, bot rot/white rot, bitter rot, cedar apple rust, fire blight, bacterial canker, brown rot, gray mold, peach leaf curl, bacterial leaf spot, rusty spot, walnut blight, anthracnose, bacterial canker, shot hole, pecan scab, leaf and fruit spots, fruit rots, damping off, botrytis blight, anthracnose fruit rot, downy mildew, pythium,"

[Cookie Monster]

There are a number of OMRI listed (organic) biofungicides like that one. You should read through the http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=19681.0 thread where we are talking about fungicides.

I don't know if it will be effective on its own. Generally they recommend rotating or mixing those with other fungicides, which improves the effectiveness of each product. A good strategy is to try to include a mix / rotation of products which utilizes different modes of action (eg, copper + bio fungicide).

I"m currently going to try a mix of 3 different OMRI listed fungicides plus an OMRI listed sticker spreader --  Cueva + Actinovate AG + Regalia + Kinetic (surfactant). Each of the 3 fungicides claims to be mixable with other pesticides and each has a different mode of action. They all have 0 preharvest and 4 hour (or less) reentry intervals and are all beneficial to the soil. I believe all 3 fungicides can be purchased in smaller / homeowner friendly bottles.

For powdery mildew, sulfur is extremely effective and can be obtained in OMRI listed formulations (micronized). Moreover, sulfur is actually beneficial to the soil -- it lowers pH :-). The only thing you have to be careful of is phytotoxicity. Tender / red foliage on certain cultivars can burn (lemon zest seemed to be the only one that burned on my yard). Right now, I'm battling anthracnose though. Haven't seen PM in a couple of weeks.

[puglvr1]

Thanks Jeff for your advise and input, appreciate it. I might try it and alternate it with the liquid Copper. The powdery mildew is pretty much done (damage wise)...all the blooms are falling off and tiny baby mangoes are present. I think I'm seeing some anthracnose now on some of the fruitlets, PM seems to be done for now...Guess I'll concentrate on treating anthracnose.

When I called Bonide to ask a couple of questions about their product ( liquid copper fungicide) she told me not to use that one on Mango since it wasn't listed on their label  ...she recommended a different one for Mango trees.

[Cookie Monster]

It's just a different formulation of copper, and copper in various forms has been used for decades to treat anthracnose on mango trees. There is probably some set of bureaucratic regularions that precludes them from adding it to the label without some sort of testing. Similarly, there will be medications that may not be labeled for a particular ailment but which are anecdotally known to be effective. Until the manufacturer has fulfilled the bureaucratic labeling requirements, the medication cannot be labeled as such. But, I and others have been using copper octanoate on mango successfully for multiple seasons.

Considering the overwhelming number of fruit and vegetable species, it's doubtful that any label can provide an exhaustive list of species treated. For example, I use these fungicides on jaboticaba. However, products manufactured in North America will likely not include a label for jaboticaba, since the number of commercial jaboticaba farmers in North America can probably be counted on the fingers of an amputated limb (zero?). And, there would be no need to label for overseas / tropical countries which aren't as label happy as our own.

Copper octanoate is a very safe product, and I think it can be used with impunity. The regular liquid copper fungicide has a higher concentration of copper and is probably fine to use. However, it's not OMRI listed (for organic production), so I assume it's more environmentally harmful than the copper octanoate and have ceased using it (despite the fact that it's labeled for mango).

It may be too late in the season to make much of an impact on production. Mango seems to be most vulnerable when the fruit are bb-sized.

Thanks Jeff for your advise and input, appreciate it. I might try it and alternate it with the liquid Copper. The powdery mildew is pretty much done (damage wise)...all the blooms are falling off and tiny baby mangoes are present. I think I'm seeing some anthracnose now on some of the fruitlets, PM seems to be done for now...Guess I'll concentrate on treating anthracnose.

When I called Bonide to ask a couple of questions about their product ( liquid copper fungicide) she told me not to use that one on Mango since it wasn't listed on their label  ...she recommended a different one for Mango trees.

[Cookie Monster]

I think copper octanoate is implicitly labeled for anthracnose on mango. The actual manufacturer / patent holder of the product labels it for use in "stone fruit," and mango is actually a stone fruit.

http://www.certisusa.com/pdf-labels/Cueva_label.pdf

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mango

I'm not familiar with labeling requirements, so I can't say for sure whether or not the implicit labeling is valid, but it does make logical sense :-).

[puglvr1]

Thanks again Jeff, what you said makes a LOT of sense  ...I'll get some Bonide octanoate next year and will try to do a much better job starting as soon as I see buds forming 

[willowwater]

We are having our Mango challenges in the Bahama Islands this year also. A couple of questions:

I'm using Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide (Octanoate). I applied it yesterday morning and it rained last night in fact it is still raining now. Mangoes are BB sized now. Can I reapply right after rain stops?

Lychees and Longan blossoms are just opening should I likewise be hitting them?

I also have Dyna-Gro Pure Neem Oil. Any thoughts on incorporating this in the fungicide management arsenal? 

Also, thanks to a recommendation by Jeff I got the Bonide Micornized Sulfur. Can this or other treatments be mixed and applied with micro-elements at the same time? Currently using Miller Microplex.

Thanks for the help.

[Cookie Monster]

I believe the label for copper soap suggests reapplying after heavy rainfall.

Copper should not be applied with chelated micronutrients, as it would increase the risk of phytotoxicity.

The copper soap label indicates that it can be mixed with sulfur, but be somewhat careful spraying new growth (tender leaves) with sulfur, as it can burn.

I don't think I'd mix oil with copper or sulfur. Check the label.

I've been happy with the use of a spreader sticker to increase effectiveness of my copper soap regimen (thanks Mark in TX).

We are having our Mango challenges in the Bahama Islands this year also. A couple of questions:

I'm using Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide (Octanoate). I applied it yesterday morning and it rained last night in fact it is still raining now. Mangoes are BB sized now. Can I reapply right after rain stops?

Lychees and Longan blossoms are just opening should I likewise be hitting them?

I also have Dyna-Gro Pure Neem Oil. Any thoughts on incorporating this in the fungicide management arsenal? 

Also, thanks to a recommendation by Jeff I got the Bonide Micornized Sulfur. Can this or other treatments be mixed and applied with micro-elements at the same time? Currently using Miller Microplex.

Thanks for the help.

[willowwater]

Thanks Jeff. Rain has stopped, gotta get crackin' with the copper.

I believe the label for copper soap suggests reapplying after heavy rainfall.

Copper should not be applied with chelated micronutrients, as it would increase the risk of phytotoxicity.

The copper soap label indicates that it can be mixed with sulfur, but be somewhat careful spraying new growth (tender leaves) with sulfur, as it can burn.

I don't think I'd mix oil with copper or sulfur. Check the label.

I've been happy with the use of a spreader sticker to increase effectiveness of my copper soap regimen (thanks Mark in TX).

We are having our Mango challenges in the Bahama Islands this year also. A couple of questions:

I'm using Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide (Octanoate). I applied it yesterday morning and it rained last night in fact it is still raining now. Mangoes are BB sized now. Can I reapply right after rain stops?

Lychees and Longan blossoms are just opening should I likewise be hitting them?

I also have Dyna-Gro Pure Neem Oil. Any thoughts on incorporating this in the fungicide management arsenal? 

Also, thanks to a recommendation by Jeff I got the Bonide Micornized Sulfur. Can this or other treatments be mixed and applied with micro-elements at the same time? Currently using Miller Microplex.

Thanks for the help.

[Cookie Monster]

Here's a good list of OMRI listed copper-based fungicides: http://www.newenglandvfc.org/2013_conference/powerpoints2013/Organic-copper-fungicides.pdf

Cueva and Camelot appear to be the most benign, followed by Nordox 75. All have caution labels (vs warning or danger), low re-entry (12 hours or less) and 0-day pre-harvest. The first two have 5% or less copper.

Camelot is specifically labeled for mango if anybody is looking for an OMRI copper product with a mango label: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/syllabi/325/schedule/Pest%20Management/Chemical%20Application%20&%20Safety/Camelot.pdf

Note that Camelot O is a different product (basically relabeled copper soap).

[willowwater]

Any thoughts on the treatment of Lychee and Longan?

Here's a good list of OMRI listed copper-based fungicides: http://www.newenglandvfc.org/2013_conference/powerpoints2013/Organic-copper-fungicides.pdf

Cueva and Camelot appear to be the most benign, followed by Nordox 75. All have caution labels (vs warning or danger), low re-entry (12 hours or less) and 0-day pre-harvest. The first two have 5% or less copper.

Camelot is specifically labeled for mango if anybody is looking for an OMRI copper product with a mango label: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/syllabi/325/schedule/Pest%20Management/Chemical%20Application%20&%20Safety/Camelot.pdf

Note that Camelot O is a different product (basically relabeled copper soap).

[Cookie Monster]

No, sorry. I haven't had to treat either.

Any thoughts on the treatment of Lychee and Longan?

Here's a good list of OMRI listed copper-based fungicides: http://www.newenglandvfc.org/2013_conference/powerpoints2013/Organic-copper-fungicides.pdf

Cueva and Camelot appear to be the most benign, followed by Nordox 75. All have caution labels (vs warning or danger), low re-entry (12 hours or less) and 0-day pre-harvest. The first two have 5% or less copper.

Camelot is specifically labeled for mango if anybody is looking for an OMRI copper product with a mango label: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/syllabi/325/schedule/Pest%20Management/Chemical%20Application%20&%20Safety/Camelot.pdf

Note that Camelot O is a different product (basically relabeled copper soap).

[Nisp66]

I have been spraying Bonide liquid copper during flowering. I now have tiny and pea size mangos. Question is should I still keep spraying them with copper every 10 days? If so, for how long? thanks

[JF]

I have been spraying Bonide liquid copper during flowering. I now have tiny and pea size mangos. Question is should I still keep spraying them with copper every 10 days? If so, for how long? thanks

Hola Omar

No if the fruit set your done

Saludos

[Sleepdoc]

I would definitely keep spraying them.  I have lost hundreds of panicles full of bb to pachinko ball sized mangos to Athracnose this season. 

EDIT -  I just saw that you are located in SoCal.  Treatment and or prophylaxis may differ in your area/weather conditions.

[Cookie Monster]

Yep. I think the major pest they run into is powdery mildew, which is only an issue when in flower.

Here in FL, one should probably continue to spray until harvest (depending on local conditions). My keitts will normally get severe anthracnose infection once the rainy season kicks in. The rest will at least get tear drop staining.

I'm going to keep spraying my mangoes until harvest. The products I'm using are actually beneficial to the soil and NOP approved. This weekend, I sprayed my witch's brew of NOP products -- Regalia + Actinovate AG + Cueva + Kinetic. So far so good and no phytotox. Some of the older anthracnose spots are starting to heal.

I would definitely keep spraying them.  I have lost hundreds of panicles full of bb to pachinko ball sized mangos to Athracnose this season. 

EDIT -  I just saw that you are located in SoCal.  Treatment and or prophylaxis may differ in your area/weather conditions.

[savemejebus]

Do they make a spray for clumsy lawn guys? Found a few dozen mangoes on the ground this weekend after the lawn guys went through like a drunken tornado.