Himalayan Mulberries

[Steph]

I have Naples Himalayan Mulberry from Marta (reallygoodplants.com) (along with DMOR9 and Taiwanese Long). I wonder if Naples is the same as Himalayan FSP (Fruit and Spice Park). Anyone have any info on the origins of Naples Himalayan mulberry or its relationship with Himalayan FSP Mulberry?  I’m just wondering how hard I should try to track down scionwood of Himalayan FSP. Can I get permission to take a cutting from the tree at the Fruit and Spice Park when I swing by there in the first few days of July?

Thanks!  Steph

[sc4001992]

I have both grafted. I don't thnk they are the same or Marta would have mentioned it in her blogs. I read her review on Naples but I don't think she is growing the FSP Himalayan.

You can read about the FSP Himalayan on the Florida Fruit Geek website (Craig).

https://floridafruitgeek.com/2021/06/30/growing-the-fruit-and-spice-parks-variety-of-himalayan-mulberry-in-north-florida/

It's not so easy to find direct comparisons of these Himalayan red fruiting mulberries. He also talks about the FSP park so you can read up on it. I hear some people say you can pick up the fruit to eat it, but i have no first hand experience there.

[Gulfgardener]

I was honestly wondering the same thing.  It's hard to compare east coast varieties with west coast because it's hard to get both lol.  I bought two Dmor9 cuttings. One died and the other is failing. I think the rootstock was just bleeding to much sap. Everything grafted on my home depot Pakistan mulberry took so they make great rootstock (thanks for the scions Kaz). Steph you get cuttings in the summer it might be hard to graft because of the sap issue. 

[sc4001992]

Gulfgardener, I noticed the same thing when I first grafted the DMOR9 from a plant I purchased (for $150) since no one was selling cuttings at the time. My first few grafts failed, I thought it was me, but nop, it was just a harder variety for grafting like the White Pakistan and Red Himalayan. So when the timing is right, it will graft fine. Also I do notice that the DMOR9 once the graft takes will grow out fast. I have an in-ground Black Pakistan tree with Australian Green, Red Himalayan, DMOR9, Sangue e Latte, Thom's Super Pakistan all grafted (1/23) and the DMOR9 has fruits on it now. The slowest graft to grow is the Sangue e Latte, still has not shown any new leaves (scion still alive). This one is the most difficult to graft, but timing is very important when grafting it.

Don't give up on the DMOR9, it's a good one, fruits are supposed to be one of the best tasting long red berry. By next year all my DMOR9 grafts will be large so just send me a message and I can sell you some fresh good scion wood for grafting. I purchased my DMOR9 tree from an old collector/ebay seller who tells me this is the best tasting red fruited berry.

I'm trading my large tree with all these grafts to a friend on this forum for a special Lychee he has.

[K-Rimes]

The slowest graft to grow is the Sangue e Latte, still has not shown any new leaves (scion still alive). This one is the most difficult to graft, but timing is very important when grafting it.

I also got Sangue e Latte this year. I see leaves coming out of only 1/4 grafts. You're right, it is harder to graft than others. I think the rest will work, just need to wait for the second set of buds which usually show up around July or something.

[mangoba]

Interesting, Sangue e Latte grafts seem normal in Italy and in the rest of the Mediterranean, it's also a strong grower as a rootstock.

Kaz, how does Dmor9 compare to Red Himalayan please?