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Messages - Mark in Texas

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3601
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: 50% shade
« on: February 19, 2014, 03:01:18 PM »
Ahhhhhhhh, Peking duck and escargot!

Yep, door #1 although I start many seeds such that as soon as they pop the soil's surface they get full sun.  Once up, any kind of plant material must be slowly acclimated to full sun unless it's received it from the get-go. 

Heard raccoons eat snails.  Want some?   :-*

3602
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: What pot do you use?
« on: February 19, 2014, 02:54:17 PM »
Wow many choices.

well, living in Colorado, guess you can get about any kind of pot you want.  ;)

3603
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: new avos
« on: February 19, 2014, 02:53:17 PM »
.....

meanwhile, i'll get to eat a lot of avocados to get the seeds.   what's not to like?

Nice collection for a cold clime.  I just grafted a Mexican variety this is/was popular in California - Stewart. Grafted it to Joey which is in the same Tex-Mex family that you have.   If you like citrus I will be planting a new Texas release satsuma called Arctic Frost.  It's on sour orange rootstock, my fave.   Said to be cold hardy down to 10F, zone 8a.  Another raved about satsuma that got a Texas Star award is Miho, also very cold hardy.

3604
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: What pot do you use?
« on: February 17, 2014, 03:54:16 PM »
Is there an easy method of removing trees out of the bigger and thicker  22in size pots without damaging the tree?

RootBuilder. You just add panels to the pot to increase the diameter.  The rootball is never disturbed and neither is your back.   8)  See my previous post.

3605
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: What pot do you use?
« on: February 17, 2014, 03:52:25 PM »
This may help.  http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=7511.0  I like RootMaker pots and/or heavy conventional black plastic pots with the inside walls and bottom painted with a root tip prunign compound - copper hydroxide.  The goal is to minimize pot size, the need to upcan often while inducing a massive, very efficient fibrous root system.

Good luck

3606
According to the article, in tropical climates, the Apple plant won't enter a dormant stage!
So, what is going on with my seedling?

Growing and fruiting well are two different animals. I'm growing Fuji, it requires at least 300 chill hours to do well.  Here's some interesting info:

If you try to grow the second group in zone 23 and 24, you will get the classic symptoms of low chill:
- a lot of blind wood (unopened buds in between the crotch and the end terminal),
- lack of vigor,
- small fruit,
- much delayed bloom and hence very, very late crops
- bloom over a long period of time
- growth mainly on the terminal buds and on pruning cuts.

http://www.cloudforest.com/cafe/forum/65924.html

I'd yank it out if I were you.


3607
Not  that I have tried.....
But I have to think that trying to grow apples, peaches, plums etc in a place like South Florida is a waste of time. You will have fungal problems plus the fruit (if you get any) will be inferior. Will  not get to sweetness due to lack of chill hours and days

Dry altitude will work will help in hot  places. Israel grows apples in the Golan Heights

Very much agree!  If it's not meant to be, don't set yourself up for failure.

Apples are grown in higher elevations even in the very hot region of west Texas (Alpine).  Mennonites have huge apple orchards in the higher elevations of Chihuahua, Mexico which is a desert.  It snows in Hawaii (Mauna Kea).  If you want your cake and eat it too, you could move to a temperate climate, grow your tropicals in a greenhouse and your other "cold" crops outdoors.  I live in a commercial peach area where the tourists will pay $12 for 5 peaches, that's how good they are.

I grow pomegranates, apples, olives, peaches, blackberries, vinifera wine grapes, tons of asparagus off 9 crowns and nuts like pecans.  You have to have a good day to night temp differential and plenty of chill hours  to grow the best fruits like apples.  Low chill apples or peaches don't cut it for me.

CHILL HOURS - We are not through with winter yet and have already racked up 1,060 chill hours!  Norm is 700-800.  The local fruit crops ought to be huge this year.

3608
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mango and/or Avocado 24/7
« on: February 12, 2014, 08:42:45 AM »
 double post

3609
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mango and/or Avocado 24/7
« on: February 12, 2014, 08:40:58 AM »
.....Mark in Texas, thank you for the kind words, sounds like a great idea for some kind of Glasshouse Avocado 24/7 Thread or something. I have to admit that I've always been very impressed and I've admired you guys up north with fruit trees in 'glasshouses.' During the years that I lived in Louisiana, it never crossed my mind that such a thing was possible. But, after seeing what you guys are able to grow in them, I'm now totally of the belief, that if you and others set your mind to it, that you also could have 'glasshouse' avocado 24/7. If I were in your place, I would concentrate on productive, dwarf avocado varieties, since I don't like to be bothered too much with the trimming/maintenance.

Yep, where your heart is so go your passions, and efforts.  You guys are gonna revolutionize the Florida avocado industry.  Looks like Carlos is the Julie Frink of Florida.  The guy is amazing.

Zone 8a - I like to think we have it all thanks to plenty of chill hours and this year we must be up there around 900+, the usual being 700-800.  That means we can grow the pome fruits, vinifera grapes, etc. fruits that need cold to set fruit well.  Our fruits especially our commercial peaches are some of the sweetest, juiciest and richest in the nation.

Greenhouses - where most have a disadvantage here is the required money and time.  (Properly designed) greenhouses aren't cheap and after paying labor to have mine erected it came out to about $27./s.f. turnkey.  My dwarfs consist of citrus on Flying Dragon, Gwen, Rincon, and Hazzard avocado and Pickering and Mallika mango.  It will be a challenge to keep Reed, Sharwil, and Oro Negro in line but with 10' columns and an 18' ridge it should be manageable.

Time - greenhouses require maintenance, TLC, and the 8-5 guy with 3 kids and a wife is better off with a tropical climate and a few yard trees.  You'll have disease and insect pressure growing in a greenhouse than outdoors.  You also must provide for ingress and egress of pollinators. In spite of the very cold, extended freezing temps "my" wild honey bees are going nuts. 

One botanical 'given' is plants require a good day to night differential to do well.  I used to live in Corpus Christi, 27* latitude, and growing tomatoes and other stuff was a battle.  It was not unusual for the night time lows on an August sunrise to be 82F!  Bam, there go your blossoms.  Hard on man, beast and plants! I retired and was working with TX A&M to put in an avocado research field study, sell backyard plants and commercial fruit until I decided to move out of that oven north.  Now the trend has caught on in the coastal and warmer areas of Texas where avocado trees and other tropicals such as mangos, papayas and bananas  can be found for sale in every nursery from San Antonio down south.

Good luck!

3610
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mango and/or Avocado 24/7
« on: February 11, 2014, 08:09:08 AM »
Updated “Avocado Watch–List”'Gwen:' A seedling bred from 'Hass' x 'Thille' in 1982. The 'Gwen' tree is higher yielding and more dwarfing than Hass in California. The fruit has an oval shape. It is frost-hardy down to −1 °C (30 °F). This variety requires little more than a third of the space of the typical avocado tree and produces "twice" as much fruit. The tree naturally grows about 15 feet in height, but can be kept even smaller because the tree lends itself easily to pruning as it has small limbs. The fruit is set in huge numbers uniformly throughout the tree. Gwen avocados are similar to the Hass in appearance, taste, and texture, but are larger. The green skin is more finely pebbled than Hass, it's thick but pliable, is dull green when ripe with a gold-green and creamy flesh. Most productive of dwarf avocados, best dwarf for outdoor use, also for containers and greenhouse. Season: It's available late winter through late summer; Feb./March/April to Sept./October. As mentioned earlier on this Thread, Forum Member CTMIAMI is field testing this exciting variety.

Even though I'm not growing it under Florida/Cali field conditions which is your primary focus, just wanted to report that my Gwen is full of blossoms, this after being grafted to a Florida pit March of last year.  Compared to my Reed, it shows about 1/3 of the vigor.  That's why it's a dwarf!   ;)

Having said that, we need to have a thread (which I'd be glad to start) for those growing tropical fruits strictly under glass - in greenhouses.

Keep up the good work Leo!

Mark

3611
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Your favorite local seedling Avocado?
« on: February 10, 2014, 11:27:46 PM »
Does it ripen evenly throughout the fruit?  Looks beautiful although the large seed will be a distraction to many.

3612
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Attn Carlos: need advice with my Sir Prize
« on: February 08, 2014, 10:36:50 AM »
Nice pick up jeff. If I were to plant it I would dig a hole 2x as big fill bottom with potting mix, potting mix is for drainage. Must plant it higher after awhile the tree would sink. Losing the roots a bit when planting.  I learn my lessons when planting avocado trees not to put any amend on top to prevent salt burn to roots. Just back fill the hole with native soil and mulch on top. People don't recommend fertilize trees right away, but it work for me toss some Dr earth fertilizer on top. Good luck.

Thanks for the advice, I think this time I'll do just that and use a little cactus mix on the bottom of the hole and back fill with the unamended gray clay subsoil and the top soil that I dig out of the hole.

You know how I feel when it comes to amending backfill.  Here's some excellent advice:

http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Fragile%20roots.pdf
http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/B&B%20root%20ball.pdf

3613
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: how to store lychee pollen
« on: February 03, 2014, 08:12:43 AM »
I've stored pollen by first mixing it with bleached wheat flour, the baking kind.  I lightly heated the flour in a pan to insure all fungus spores, weevils and such were dead, let it cool, mix the flour with the pollen and then stored the mix in the fridge until use.  Pull out and set aside only enough mix for one session.  Do not contaminate the bulk batch with a brush, your finger, etc.

Good luck.....

3614
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Bacon avocado trees in South Florida
« on: February 02, 2014, 10:41:02 PM »
Its kind of hard not to compare other avocado varieties to Hass when Hass dominates the world commercial grown avocado market.

Just because the packing houses prefer Hass does not give me reason to prefer it.   Hass is a tasty cado but there are much better choices. 

3615
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: SoCal potted Avocado varieties available
« on: February 02, 2014, 10:16:37 AM »
$27 bucks, must be nice!  BTW, it's Stewart, not Stuart.

Quote
Stewart – Similar to the Mexicola the skin is thin and near black. The Stewart boasts slightly larger pear-shaped fruit which have an outstanding nutty flavor, plus the tree is a consistent bearer. The oil content is high near 20%. The tree is cold hardy and can act as a great pollinator.

3616
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Two types of Parafilm ?
« on: January 31, 2014, 02:54:41 PM »
Yep, life's aggravations.  Parafilm breaking, paper not coming off, what's a grafter gonna do?

On the last batch of veneer grafts about 5 days ago, I sliced the scion, placed it against the rootstock and then outlined the scion width with a fine marker to help get my rootstock removal of stock down a tad better.  Is that getting anal or what?   :)

3617
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Two types of Parafilm ?
« on: January 30, 2014, 10:40:53 PM »
Being that parafilm seems to break quite easily for me (I'm pretty aggressive with my wrapping) I do the graft and mainly use the parafilm to hold the scion into position and make sure the scion is covered so it doesn't dry out.  I then go back to the cambium contact point and really cinch it down using green plastic tape for total cambium contact.  That's the cheapo green gardening/staking type found at Walmart or nurseries.

The initial layer of parafilm cushions the green tissue from bruising as I cinch it down with the tough green vinyl tape.

I think everyone has to find and stick to a program that works best for them. 

3618
Curious, where does all the fruit from the collection go?  Can't be only at Julie Frink's Superbowl party this weekend.  ;D

3619
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Possible dwarf mango.
« on: January 29, 2014, 07:51:24 AM »
I understand the value of a rootstock very well.  IMO it's about as important as the choice of scion wood, but, sometimes being on its own roots does better.  I have a friend in Corpus Christi who took a store mango, probably a Haden, planted the seedling into the typical Corpus heavy black gumbo type clay soil and it grew like crazy.  Probably the best mango I've eaten.

What is wrong with 'turpentine' which apparently is a very common rootstock used in Florida?  Is it not vigorous enough or you just trying something else for kicks?

3620
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Enjoying citrus in Gillespie County.
« on: January 29, 2014, 07:35:01 AM »
Just a few of our Meyers and blood oranges on the chopping block.  The oranges have another month to turn blood red.  After growing them for years I find the Moro orange still a bit on the tart side.  I may cut it back and graft something else on it.

We freeze a lot of our Key lime and Meyer lemon juice in ice trays and then bag them.  Made a couple of nice drinks last night substituting a few of the water cubes for Meyer lemon cubes.  Nothing like starting with a glass of mixed ice cubes, rum or tequila topped off with freshly juiced S. Texas oranges or blood orange soda.  We luv our Breville juicer!

Salud!



The trick to picking that perfect, super juicy key aka Mexican lime is to wait until it turns yellow.  If it resists coming off when you lightly tug at it, its not ready IMO.  Can't beat the zest and juice for no bake cheesecake. 

3621
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Bacon avocado trees in South Florida
« on: January 28, 2014, 10:30:22 PM »
Why is it always Guat X W. Indies and not Mex X W. Indies for Florida cados?

3622
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: What so special About an avacado?
« on: January 28, 2014, 03:25:35 PM »
Anybody in Southern California have any Reed and/or Holiday Avocado scions for grafting?

I have reed scions available from my tree. Pm me if you want it.

Mail 'em in a USPS small flat rate box. Cost is like $5.80, next day delivery. 

3623
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: What so special About an avacado?
« on: January 28, 2014, 03:23:42 PM »
Just got in 12 sticks from UCR - Hazzard, Rincon and Stewart.  Last year it was 7 varieties, about 70 sticks.   Someone forgot to check out the FedX charges, cost me $83.22 in shipping overnight!  I complained and they being the champions they are said the next shipment was on them.  Second year ordering.    If you order be sure and specify ground.  You'll have to have a FedX account that they can charge to.

You SoCal folks that have an exchange, consider yourself damn lucky!

Mark

3624
Hazzard, Rincon, GEM, Gwen

3625
Mark, I had asked Julie Frink (C.R.F.G. Avocado expert) about black mold on avocado scions and she said was nothing to be concerned about. I know from growing a few different avo varieties that some var. like my Hellen have what looks like sooty mold but only on trunk and branches nothing on leaves. But never to safe concerning G.H. growing!!!I spray all my scion wood whether it looks clean or not w/Physan 20 a Algaecide,fungicide,bactericide,virucide and is a concentrate and can be mixed to various strength's. Happy grafting.

Thanks for the reply.   Dr. Mary Lu Arpaia said the same thing.  It's not a problem unless it's on leaves blocking sunlight, but we don't have to worry about that here.  Funny, but I dipped all sticks in the same mix, 1 tsp./gallon.

Must be variety driven like you said because last year I also got Stewart and it was just covered with black soot. 

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