Great topic nullzero! I'm currently growing Halley's Comet, American Beauty, Vietnamese White, Yellow DF, Frankies Red and something I call Simon's Red. The Vietnamese White is the easiest to grow and fruit for me. I have the most difficult time growing the Yellow DF outdoors but the easiest time growing it indoors under T5 lighting. My yellow DF grew 3 branches, each that grew about 2 feet in about a month and a half in the winter indoors.
I just took cuttings from each plant and I'm going to start new with a planned out set up. Previously, I just stuck them in a pot and let them climb everywhere. They grew and fruited well this way but it was sloppy looking. This time, I'm going to try growing them in smart pots and grow them as a DF tree like they do in Vietnam.
I grow my DF in full sun but they do get burned in the summertime. This summer, I may throw some shade cloth over them during the hottest part of the summer.
Simon
I have Hylocereus undatus: many flowers and fruits.
Hylocereus polyrhizus: red flesh, 1st time flowers last year, no fruits set.
Hylocereus megalanthus: never could adapt to my area, is now dead, supposedly the fruits have yellow skin. Maybe I need to grow it indoor?
In the photos below, one 1 is of the red-flesh variety (H. polyrhizus). Notice that the flower buds have different coloration and the branches have different thorn pattern than the more popular H. undatus.
I also have a small branch of Physical Graffiti, not sure what its scientific name is.
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/delldude/DSC_5664.jpg)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/delldude/DSC_5653-1.jpg)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/delldude/DSC_2387-1.jpg)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/delldude/DSC_2240.jpg)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67/delldude/poly1.jpg)
i grow few yellow dragon fruit from seeds ,,, will they bear true to type ,,
Hey I like the idea of this thread! Below is a picture of my progress of growing dragon fruit so far. My brother gave me a tip that there was this rogue dragon fruit vine growing in this public park in Boca Raton FL, so equipped with gloves a trash bag and some hand clippers we went guerrilla and got some cuttings (the first picture) this was back in June of 2011. Next, I built a crazy trellis out of 4x4's 2x4's and pieced it together with dry wall screws. Pretty rugged job as I did it all without a level and tape measure just screwed it all together and buried the 4x4's about 1.5 ft deep. The cuttings were so easy to root just let them dry out for a day and stuck one cutting on each flat side of the base of the 4x4. Also I bought some long zip-ties from home depot and as the cuttings grew larger I would zip tie them to the trellis to promote the roots to latch onto the trellis and after awhile I would cut off the zip-ties. The second picture is probably 5 months after planting and the final picture was taken in mid january of 2012. I can't believe how easy it is to grow dragon fruit and it literally just grows and I never water it a perk of it being a cactus I guess. Really hoping it fruits this year, excited to see which type of dragon fruit this is...
(http://s11.postimage.org/eppw25yjz/1eba9562.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/eppw25yjz/)
Those are really nice healthy looking cuttings. They are growing really nicely too on the trellis you built. Does anyone know what variety they may be? Maybe someone has seen them with fruit on them to ID. What part of Boca Raton is the park? It would be a sight to see them growing wild like that. I would love to see it. Hopefully for you they are some fantastically sweet tasting variety! Great Job.
i grow few yellow dragon fruit from seeds ,,, will they bear true to type ,,
Very much doubt it, from my experience, yellow dragon fruit seedlings produce decent quality fruit.
Mine were sweet but a little smaller than a selected variety.
Hey I like the idea of this thread! Below is a picture of my progress of growing dragon fruit so far. My brother gave me a tip that there was this rogue dragon fruit vine growing in this public park in Boca Raton FL, so equipped with gloves a trash bag and some hand clippers we went guerrilla and got some cuttings (the first picture) this was back in June of 2011. Next, I built a crazy trellis out of 4x4's 2x4's and pieced it together with dry wall screws. Pretty rugged job as I did it all without a level and tape measure just screwed it all together and buried the 4x4's about 1.5 ft deep. The cuttings were so easy to root just let them dry out for a day and stuck one cutting on each flat side of the base of the 4x4. Also I bought some long zip-ties from home depot and as the cuttings grew larger I would zip tie them to the trellis to promote the roots to latch onto the trellis and after awhile I would cut off the zip-ties. The second picture is probably 5 months after planting and the final picture was taken in mid january of 2012. I can't believe how easy it is to grow dragon fruit and it literally just grows and I never water it a perk of it being a cactus I guess. Really hoping it fruits this year, excited to see which type of dragon fruit this is...
(http://s11.postimage.org/eppw25yjz/1eba9562.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/eppw25yjz/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/sxapfko01/423621f1.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sxapfko01/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/bhh9ur3tx/eb370816.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bhh9ur3tx/)
Ramiro Lobo gave a speech at the Festival of Fruits a few years ago, and brought tons of DF from the field station in San Diego. Luckily for me, the weekend (or two) before was the DF festival so there were only about 8 of us attending his lecture. This made for boxes of fruits for everyone, an awesome experience. To me the darker magenta fleshed fruits (more H. polyrhizus?) tasted the best and surprisingly there was one white DF that was good, had some citrus notes.
-Ethan
I am off on Mondays and decided to go for a sightseeing tour to check out the dragon fruit growing wild on Palmetto by the inter-coastal bridge on the way to see my daughter. It was a road trip gone wrong. Took the scenic route up A1A along the beach.... Big mistake....Some lady pulls out of the Boca Resort's Beach Club and T-Bones me :'( I never did get to see the wild dragon fruit, only my pretty baby all smashed up driving off on a flat bed!
Never thought the love of seeing tropical fruit could be dangerous LOL Maybe I should be driving a tank or a tractor!
Cars are replaceable... I too hope you're ok, not too much damage. Did you tell the other person to call Harry?
I obtained cuttings of Phoenix Red dragonfruit from a friend. Does anyone have info on this cultivar. It's already pushing new growth.
Besides Phoenix Red, I have-
Voodoo Child
Purple Haze
Physical Graffiti
Giant Vietnamese
Yellow
Thai Red
American Beauty
The Giant Vietnamese was the only one that has fruited so far. It bore 2 fruits last year. It's white flesh but the taste was very nice. Subtley sweet.
I would love to see pictures too.I obtained cuttings of Phoenix Red dragonfruit from a friend. Does anyone have info on this cultivar. It's already pushing new growth.
Besides Phoenix Red, I have-
Voodoo Child
Purple Haze
Physical Graffiti
Giant Vietnamese
Yellow
Thai Red
American Beauty
The Giant Vietnamese was the only one that has fruited so far. It bore 2 fruits last year. It's white flesh but the taste was very nice. Subtley sweet.
Rodney,
Would love to see some pictures of all the dragon fruits you are growing. I heard Phoenix Red was very good DF.
How do you tell which variety the fruit is growing (Of course I am assuming they are growing together)
Yellow Dragon Fruit --
I have not had the opportunity to taste a yellow dragon fruit yet.
Just curious how those who have would rate them?
Beautiful flowering habit, very interesting exterior appearance of the fruit, nice flavor (one of the more flavorful white fleshed dragonfruits), thorns on the fruit are a pain until the fruit is mature....at which time they can be brushed off easily. But.....these things are so darned small it is almost not worth the effort. Literally, there is maybe 2-3 teaspoons of edible flesh per fruit. or at least that is how mine have been. I hear there are some larger ones around....but so far, I haven't seen nor be able to source any.
Ha
I am very amazed at just how fast these plants grow! Below are the pictures comparing January to March and the growth in just 2 months!
January 2012
(http://s15.postimage.org/isdp9iuyv/20111231_163333.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/isdp9iuyv/)
March 2012.
(http://s16.postimage.org/wq0p298wh/dragonfruit_3_12a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wq0p298wh/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/jqq5r4qb7/dragonfruit_3_12.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jqq5r4qb7/)
You guys are so lucky to have access to the Mattslandscapes and Pine Island nursery selections.In this parellel universe we make do with lesser entities and almost no hybrids.I have about 10 varieties and my most glamorous type is a giant self fertile columbian red.It is no doubt pretty ordinary compared to physical graffiti.I could plant the seeds and wait 4 years I suppose.
Unlike your dazzling smile there are gaps in my collection, more like an alabama grin, due to quarantine preventing live plants coming into this fair land.This morning I was frolicking through my collection of durian,mangosteen,longkong,duku,rambutan and many other fruit trees but my excitement was moderated by my second rate dragon fruit.My sugar apples are also occupying spots where illama and soncoya should be.Even tho I enjoyed a bounty of rambai,matisia and rambutan after dinner last night I will never have much of a meso-american selection as only seeds are allowed in.
lmao.... yes people are overly sensitive and too politically correct on everything. I prefer the "Vietnamese Jaina" myself ;)
Vietnamese Jana (Please be careful when pronouncing this one!)
Say it and think about it. Some here in Florida renamed it Pearl from my understanding. I wonder why?
Hey what the heck it's just a word right?
I am very amazed at just how fast these plants grow! Below are the pictures comparing January to March and the growth in just 2 months!
January 2012
(http://s15.postimage.org/isdp9iuyv/20111231_163333.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/isdp9iuyv/)
March 2012.
(http://s16.postimage.org/wq0p298wh/dragonfruit_3_12a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wq0p298wh/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/jqq5r4qb7/dragonfruit_3_12.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jqq5r4qb7/)
April 2012
AMAZING GROWTH in just 3 MONTHS
(http://s16.postimage.org/6fe50m329/20120427_150208.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6fe50m329/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/87i350htj/20120427_153158.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/87i350htj/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/dwnsz54dn/20120427_150104.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dwnsz54dn/)
To make it more difficult, did all of Selenicereus get lumped in w/Hylocereus or just S. megalanthus?
-Ethan
I am very excited to post my July 2012 update. Not only has my dragon fruit trellis grown like crazy.... but today I went to inspect some nubs of new growth to discover they were actually the beginnings of some FLOWERS!!!!I'm kinda running in parallel with you, I finished my trellises and planted my Dragon Fruits back in Feb. Got my very first DF bud ever on my Purple Haze. Developing like crazy, the picture is from this last Sunday, and it has grown about a half inch by today (Tuesday).
This project started January 1st and 7+ months later and there are flowers. I really didn't expect flowering success this soon. I now am hopeful for a fruit or two.
Thought I should join in on the fun ;D
(http://s10.postimage.org/vun6nk0s5/20120804_192647.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/vun6nk0s5/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/4lbt91zp1/20120804_192709.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4lbt91zp1/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/y1w0p7vg5/20120804_192728.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/y1w0p7vg5/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/iug14v3lh/20120804_192731.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/iug14v3lh/)
(http://s10.postimage.org/p9f21jab9/20120804_192756.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/p9f21jab9/)
I am very amazed at just how fast these plants grow! Below are the pictures comparing January to March and the growth in just 2 months!
January 2012
(http://s15.postimage.org/isdp9iuyv/20111231_163333.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/isdp9iuyv/)
March 2012.
(http://s16.postimage.org/wq0p298wh/dragonfruit_3_12a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wq0p298wh/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/jqq5r4qb7/dragonfruit_3_12.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jqq5r4qb7/)
There's a green skinned variety? awesome ;D
On a side note, does anyone recognize these fruits?
The album is found here (http://flickrhivemind.net/Tags/cactus,pitaya/Interesting)
(http://farm1.staticflickr.com/47/139206871_d274665534_z.jpg?zz=1) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/samblackman/139206871/)
Pitayas I (http://www.flickr.com/photos/samblackman/139206871/#) by Sam Blackman (http://www.flickr.com/people/samblackman/), on Flickr
(http://farm1.staticflickr.com/53/139206651_86e633e511.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/samblackman/139206651/)
Pitayas II (http://www.flickr.com/photos/samblackman/139206651/#) by Sam Blackman (http://www.flickr.com/people/samblackman/), on Flickr
Hey null, the yellow dragon fruit is very sweet, almost syrupy. The seeds are also larger but they pop really easily. The fruit is very small except for the ones I tried in Hong Kong.
Hi,
Here's my Dragon ;D
(http://s14.postimage.org/81vd0iifh/IMG_0269.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/81vd0iifh/)
Null,Hi,
Here's my Dragon ;D
(http://s14.postimage.org/81vd0iifh/IMG_0269.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/81vd0iifh/)
Beautiful, keep us updated on the fruit.
Hey Null, I believe the "Frankies Red" variety is a Yellow Dragonfruit crossed with either a red/purple fleshed variety. I got my cutting of Frankies Red from Leo Manuel. You are welcome to a cutting if you are interested. I have never tasted the Frankies Red. My plants should fruit next year.
Simon
Oooops,
Almost missed this one! I have no idea the variety name! I planted several cuttings growing on the same trellis.
Can you guys name this variety? Is it Natural Mystic, Zamorano, or Costa Rica Sunset??? The fruit weighted a little over one (1) pound. It was approximately 500 grams.
I ate it nice and cold and it had just a hint of sweetness!
Thank you!
(http://s8.postimage.org/edhsnjott/PA210018.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/edhsnjott/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/imj5za5rf/PA210017.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/imj5za5rf/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/7gl1ouzzr/PA210022.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/7gl1ouzzr/)
I made this 5 weeks ago. It was very simple to construct if anyone is interested in the supply list and instructions. I am growing Physical Grafitti and Haley's Comet. I also have American Beauty rooting in a separate pot. I have had a huge growth spurt in the last week. I am looking forward to fruit!
(http://s8.postimage.org/e2rwfeudt/20120204_180151.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/e2rwfeudt/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/6bplracdv/20120204_180231.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6bplracdv/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/nb42n1avl/20120204_175933.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nb42n1avl/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/cglpictv7/20111231_163549.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cglpictv7/)
I love the planter. What was your supply list?
I see a 4x4
A section of lattice
Two pieces of rebar
Painted with what?
How big is your container?
Thanks for the great ideaI made this 5 weeks ago. It was very simple to construct if anyone is interested in the supply list and instructions. I am growing Physical Grafitti and Haley's Comet. I also have American Beauty rooting in a separate pot. I have had a huge growth spurt in the last week. I am looking forward to fruit!
(http://s8.postimage.org/e2rwfeudt/20120204_180151.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/e2rwfeudt/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/6bplracdv/20120204_180231.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6bplracdv/)
(http://s16.postimage.org/nb42n1avl/20120204_175933.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/nb42n1avl/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/cglpictv7/20111231_163549.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/cglpictv7/)
Wow,
I read about the health benefits of pitaya (dragon fruit), and I plan to pay better attention to my vines.
http://www.naturalfoodbenefits.com/display.asp?CAT=1&ID=41 (http://www.naturalfoodbenefits.com/display.asp?CAT=1&ID=41)
Yesterday, I harvested a white flesh variety absolutely delicious. The day before I picked and ate a nice magenta/red flesh one.
Lately, I also notice that my urine and my body waste had a reddish/purple color. I guess it was from the lycopene/antioxidants.
Have you guys experienced the same results after eating magenta/red flesh dragon fruit (pitaya)?
Wow,
I read about the health benefits of pitaya (dragon fruit), and I plan to pay better attention to my vines.
http://www.naturalfoodbenefits.com/display.asp?CAT=1&ID=41 (http://www.naturalfoodbenefits.com/display.asp?CAT=1&ID=41)
Yesterday, I harvested a white flesh variety absolutely delicious. The day before I picked and ate a nice magenta/red flesh one.
Lately, I also notice that my urine and my body waste had a reddish/purple color. I guess it was from the lycopene/antioxidants.
Have you guys experienced the same results after eating magenta/red flesh dragon fruit (pitaya)?
Do not throw away the skin!!!
Just made some tea from the fresh skin of a dragon fruit! High levels of antioxidants!
Wow,
I read about the health benefits of pitaya (dragon fruit), and I plan to pay better attention to my vines.
http://www.naturalfoodbenefits.com/display.asp?CAT=1&ID=41 (http://www.naturalfoodbenefits.com/display.asp?CAT=1&ID=41)
Yesterday, I harvested a white flesh variety absolutely delicious. The day before I picked and ate a nice magenta/red flesh one.
Lately, I also notice that my urine and my body waste had a reddish/purple color. I guess it was from the lycopene/antioxidants.
Have you guys experienced the same results after eating magenta/red flesh dragon fruit (pitaya)?
Hey Steven,
How is your AZ Purple Doing?
- Jacob
Hi guys,
My name's William and I'm new to the forums. I was looking for more knowledge on dragon fruit and came across this thread and decided this was the place to be. I recently got some dragon fruit cutting from a friend and went ahead and planted the stems. My friend is Vietnamese and her fruits are the ones with white flesh, not sure of the specific name. I was wondering if it's true that you need to let the cuttings dry for a week before planting. I decided to plant 2 stems into one pot and hoping this won't cause a problem.
(http://i.imgur.com/Hv4IEl.jpg)
Please feel free to critique my potting method and any tips are greatly appreciated. For the soil I decided to use some perlite, organic potting soil, steer manure, and some peat moss. I'm so interested in the fruit that I recently also purchased the Haley's Comet and Yellow dragon fruit variants. I was wondering if it would be okay to grow the two in one pot, like how I did my first ones. Well any help is greatly appreciated and I hope to keep you guys updated with my progress!
The pole is actually redwood 4x4. Should I replace it with something else?
Ayo marinfla, it's off palmetto pkwy next to intercoastal bridge, should be on a pine tree NW corner before bridge.
Any help with cultivar ID is much appreciated.Where are these from? If they're wild (not cultivated) then by definition they're not any cultivar.
Did anybody grow dragonfruit from seed or is that not recommendable? I want to have a good species and thought it is much easyier and safer to send seeds instead of a plant.Seedlings are usually different from the parents. Not in between. It's somewhat random. Sometimes you get one that doesn't produce pollen or is sterile. Usually people just end up with a fruit they don't like. But there's also a chance it might be good so try it. Better to try 100 if you have the space and select the best.
There aren't that much growth habit variations among dragonfruits.
I have Condor. It's similar to American Beauty. Magenta flesh, sweet. Not thick-stemmed so somewhat heat-tolerant. Filtered sunlight is best.
I tried Cebra and Orejona before. They're not especially memorable. I don't remember what they tasted like.
I am very amazed at just how fast these plants grow! Below are the pictures comparing January to March and the growth in just 2 months!
January 2012
(http://s15.postimage.org/isdp9iuyv/20111231_163333.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/isdp9iuyv/)
March 2012.
(http://s16.postimage.org/wq0p298wh/dragonfruit_3_12a.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/wq0p298wh/)
(http://s13.postimage.org/jqq5r4qb7/dragonfruit_3_12.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/jqq5r4qb7/)
April 2012
AMAZING GROWTH in just 3 MONTHS
(http://s16.postimage.org/6fe50m329/20120427_150208.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6fe50m329/)
(http://s7.postimage.org/87i350htj/20120427_153158.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/87i350htj/)
(http://s17.postimage.org/dwnsz54dn/20120427_150104.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/dwnsz54dn/)
Some Hylocereus here.
Farm
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/kada/Hylocereus1_zpscc32489f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/kada/media/Hylocereus1_zpscc32489f.jpg.html)
Cheap/easy mostly eco friendly way to grow.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/kada/Hylocereus3_zpsb37b0dff.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/kada/media/Hylocereus3_zpsb37b0dff.jpg.html)
red fruit
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/kada/Hylocereus8_zpscce81888.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/kada/media/Hylocereus8_zpscce81888.jpg.html)
purple fruit
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/kada/Hylocereus9_zps132dca29.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/kada/media/Hylocereus9_zps132dca29.jpg.html)
H. undatus (white)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/kada/Hylocereus7_zps06926d9e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/kada/media/Hylocereus7_zps06926d9e.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/kada/Hylocereus6_zps567a07c6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/kada/media/Hylocereus6_zps567a07c6.jpg.html)
taking cuttings in greenhouse (under 70% shade cloth). these are after drying 3 days.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/kada/Hylocereus5_zpscbe2c80a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/kada/media/Hylocereus5_zpscbe2c80a.jpg.html)
Variegated Hylocereus (not at all of interest to fruit growers, but thought i would post it anyway in case there are other cactus enthusiasts as well.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/kada/Hylocereus4_zpsb9f3d308.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/kada/media/Hylocereus4_zpsb9f3d308.jpg.html)
Grafting rootstock stock plant section.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/kada/Hylocereus2_zps48c9c38f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/kada/media/Hylocereus2_zps48c9c38f.jpg.html)
If anybody could give me some cuttings of their dragon fruit,I would greatly appreciate it.
Dangermouse01, I like the trellises at the end of the driveway, very stylish, good job.
Katie that set up looks great!! Nice Job. Mine took a 1-1/2 years to go from the picture on the left to the picture on the right
January 1, 2012
(http://s22.postimg.cc/pab62gqj1/20111231_163005.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/pab62gqj1/) (http://s18.postimg.cc/f5s00qued/DSCN1607.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/f5s00qued/) May 27, 2013
Katie that set up looks great!! Nice Job. Mine took a 1-1/2 years to go from the picture on the left to the picture on the rightYes I am getting lots of fruit now. They are covered with developing fruit and newly blooming flowers.
January 1, 2012
(http://s22.postimg.cc/pab62gqj1/20111231_163005.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/pab62gqj1/) (http://s18.postimg.cc/f5s00qued/DSCN1607.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/f5s00qued/) May 27, 2013
;D Do you get fruit now? How many from that structure?
MarinFla,Thanks! I've eaten a few smaller ones already...I am surprised at how sweet they are compared to others I have tried (not mine). I can't wait to rest the brix level to actually quantify it.
Congrats beautiful looking fruit. I bet it taste as good as it looks.
Mind sharing a Halley's Comet cutting or two? I've been looking to get some everywhere.If you make it really easy for me I surely will....between work and family obligations I am usually so overwhelmed. So if you could send me a package to put the cutting in already labeled with your mailing address and postage, I will put the cuttings in that package and send it right back to you.
Thanks
thao
MarinFla,Thanks! I've eaten a few smaller ones already...I am surprised at how sweet they are compared to others I have tried (not mine). I can't wait to rest the brix level to actually quantify it.
Congrats beautiful looking fruit. I bet it taste as good as it looks.
Thanks Harry! I tested that dragon fruit with the refractometer and it measured at a brix level of 15.6MarinFla,Thanks! I've eaten a few smaller ones already...I am surprised at how sweet they are compared to others I have tried (not mine). I can't wait to rest the brix level to actually quantify it.
Congrats beautiful looking fruit. I bet it taste as good as it looks.
But wait.....the larger the fruits get, the better/sweeter they are. At least that has been my experience. Nice growing!
Just taste tested an American Beauty, grown by Rodney. The fruit was on the larger side believe it was around 1 lb, was an excellent sweet taste with a nice subtle acidic component. 3 of us all greatly enjoyed it.Nice looking fruit, that is a good tasting variety. I have only had my "houghtons" mature so far. All of the others have a few more weeks, of course while I'll be in Peru.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-esxlQFoDGPk/Uf_KkN4WNkI/AAAAAAAAGIU/6Q-_F_LeFc8/s640/P1070129.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6BJNHm8j0nw/Uf_K3ViHQNI/AAAAAAAAGIs/ToUG-SqnEUw/s640/P1070132.JPG)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vGATFjcyEXg/Uf_K6HvIuEI/AAAAAAAAGI0/z9QmRfqDKa4/s640/P1070133.JPG)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H6KuNGUJShU/Uf_LDosvBdI/AAAAAAAAGJE/g99soeMQUJc/s640/P1070136.JPG)
marklee,The Houghton is smaller than most others, it is dark red and very tasty, I just had my friend try one for the first time the other night and she can't get enough of them. A very prolific bearer, I must have 50 or more on mine right now. One of my favorite.
How is the houghton fruit? I have one growing atm.
MarinFla, love your setup.
I have a Red Zamorano that is a mess. It is in its original pot, it needs a repot badly.
It is running everywhere and I think i want to start from scratch and do a setup similar to what you have.
I do have my first flower about to pop open, hoping for my first fruit set.
So, as I understand it, it is not about how high the plant grows, but more about how far down the plant hangs, correct?
How necessary is it burlap the post?
I was thinking about adding a second culitvar maybe do two plants of two cultivars (4 plants) around a 4x4.
Anyone have a good variety they want to swap for some Red Zamorano (similar growth habit)?
So I'm new to the forum, but every time I google dragonfruit this thread pops up. I just started 3 dragon fruit cacti from cuttings, and I'm pretty excited. I have no idea what cultivar they are other than white, red, and a purple fruit. One if them decided to bless me with a shoot. I thought I'd have to wait to stake the plant (not sure why I had the idea) and the dang thing has shot out almost straight sideways! It grew so fast! Is it too late to stake that one? Or is it ok to bend it? Also, the shoot is producing a clear liquid from the little segments. I tried to get a photo, it looks pretty good on my iPhone. Has anyone else's done this? It is slightly sticky, of course I had to taste it, and it's sweet. Hmmm. Google has no answer for that.Welcome to the forum :)
Also the other 2 haven't done anything but send down roots and one made 3 spines on a little knob. I sat them outside in a covered spot thinking maybe it's too cold in my house for those type to shoot out. I'd like to stick them all outside in the sun, but it's been pouring rain off and on for days. Any advise would be awesome. I just want to make sure I'm not killing the little guys. I'm not sure if the moisture in the air outside is enough, or if they should still be watered. Again they are in a covered spot so no direct rain. Thanks in advance.
(http://s14.postimg.cc/4nylks6el/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/4nylks6el/)
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William,
They do look just like normal DF flowers. Maybe, it was just that first single flower, that was a different shade of color. And what's that protruding little yellow thingy?, in the bottom right of the open flower?
@ThaoWillam,
I have a few other in containers, and a couple at work, I was just telling the wife I need to get these organized, I have many started spread out all over the plave in nooks and crannies.
Looks like they held on and is spreading everywhere.
@Carbo
I was laughing over here when I read the part of "Putas" and red bulbs. .
Natural Mystic is one that is self pollinating. It is red/red and the flavor reminds me a little of watermelon. Vietnamese Jaina also is self polinating and sweet.
Natural Mystic is one that is self pollinating. It is red/red and the flavor reminds me a little of watermelon. Vietnamese Jaina also is self polinating and sweet.
I have never heard of these varieties. Who sells them and are there any drawbacks (lack of vigor, etc)?
I believe, most magenta, red and red hybrids and some white varieties, are self pollinating. Some I know includes: Haley's comet, purple haze, physical graffiti, natural mystic, red Jaina, Zamorano, American beauty, David bowie, Viet giant and some others, I didn't mention.
Natural Mystic is one that is self pollinating. It is red/red and the flavor reminds me a little of watermelon. Vietnamese Jaina also is self polinating and sweet.
I have never heard of these varieties. Who sells them and are there any drawbacks (lack of vigor, etc)?
I think I got mine from Bender's Grove. Pine Island and others carry these. I still have Natural Mystic in the 3G pot I bought it in, 2+ years now. It is pretty vigorous, attempting to climb over a 6 ft fence, and flowers often for its size. I just grabbed a fruit and it has three fruit on it. I bought wood to build a structure for all my DFs but I have not found the motivation yet.I believe, most magenta, red and red hybrids and some white varieties, are self pollinating. Some I know includes: Haley's comet, purple haze, physical graffiti, natural mystic, red Jaina, Zamorano, American beauty, David bowie, Viet giant and some others, I didn't mention.
The Haley's Comet and Physical Graffiti that I have are not self pollinating. Purple haze may be based on reports from others but I have had flowers not set.
My biggest dragonfruit vine is Zamorano and despite my pollination attempts, it is not setting any fruit. I haven't been able to cross-pollinate Zamorano because my other varieties are much smaller and they haven't flowered much yet. What are the best varieties for self-pollinating?
My mystery dragon fruit plant, opened its single flower night before last. at 11Pm. I whipped out my 28ft extension ladder, and went up onto the second story roof. to get these shots.
(http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff510/William_Crowley/PitayaFlower1_zps3565c550.jpg) (http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/William_Crowley/media/PitayaFlower1_zps3565c550.jpg.html)
(http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff510/William_Crowley/PitayaFlower2_zps695dd404.jpg) (http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/William_Crowley/media/PitayaFlower2_zps695dd404.jpg.html)
(http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff510/William_Crowley/PitayaFlower3_zps1da98d18.jpg) (http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/William_Crowley/media/PitayaFlower3_zps1da98d18.jpg.html)
The cutting for this was marked "Makisupa" but not sure. first flowers were more yellowish, but these look like normal Pitaya flowers.
I did my best to manually pollinate this single flower, no other Pitaya plants flowering at the moment, so hopefully it takes.
Does anyone have experience with eating quality of Frankies Red?
Or better yet, photos to share with us? This hybrid sounds very intriguing
nullzy,
I got a cutting of Frankie's Red from mattslandscape.com last year. It's in a fairly shaded location and is very spindly/narrow, but I have had a couple of pieces break off which I put in pots to root. If you can't source it elsewhere, I'm sure I could send you one.
James
I wonder if anyone of us outside of Sven or Leo have experienced this variety?
I never did get Frankie's red or the regular S. megalanthus to fruit, but I didn't try very hard. They both have very similar growth patterns. Unfortunately I don't have either growing anymore. Ok I’ve got to ask, how did you know I had that variety Tim?
What a beautiful sight to behold :)
(http://s13.postimg.cc/hrmal5qk3/IMG_5299.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/hrmal5qk3/)
What a beautiful sight to behold :)
(http://s13.postimg.cc/hrmal5qk3/IMG_5299.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/hrmal5qk3/)
Congrats what variety? Also from the picture it looks like its grown in SoCal?
What a beautiful sight to behold :)
(http://s13.postimg.cc/hrmal5qk3/IMG_5299.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/hrmal5qk3/)
Congrats what variety? Also from the picture it looks like its grown in SoCal?
I don't know what variety it is. All I know is that it has white flesh & the fruits are very big. I also have the purple and red flesh ones, but their fruits are smaller :). BTW, how on earth can you tell that it's grown in SoCal just by looking at the pic? (you're right, though)
What a beautiful sight to behold :)
(http://s13.postimg.cc/hrmal5qk3/IMG_5299.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/hrmal5qk3/)
Congrats what variety? Also from the picture it looks like its grown in SoCal?
I don't know what variety it is. All I know is that it has white flesh & the fruits are very big. I also have the purple and red flesh ones, but their fruits are smaller :). BTW, how on earth can you tell that it's grown in SoCal just by looking at the pic? (you're right, though)
If I had to take a guess I would say South Bay area or North OC near the 405. I can tell the area its grown in by the ambient lighting in the picture. Also the plants in the foreground and background being grown like the Ficus sp. (very popular in SoCal, and do not get out of control and big usually). Even the type of concrete block used... for instance that exact wall and type of lighting I would see at my friend's house in Lawndale.
What a beautiful sight to behold :)
(http://s13.postimg.cc/hrmal5qk3/IMG_5299.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/hrmal5qk3/)
Congrats what variety? Also from the picture it looks like its grown in SoCal?
I don't know what variety it is. All I know is that it has white flesh & the fruits are very big. I also have the purple and red flesh ones, but their fruits are smaller :). BTW, how on earth can you tell that it's grown in SoCal just by looking at the pic? (you're right, though)
If I had to take a guess I would say South Bay area or North OC near the 405. I can tell the area its grown in by the ambient lighting in the picture. Also the plants in the foreground and background being grown like the Ficus sp. (very popular in SoCal, and do not get out of control and big usually). Even the type of concrete block used... for instance that exact wall and type of lighting I would see at my friend's house in Lawndale.
Oh boy, you're good! I gotta be careful posting pictures of my yard now or you can pinpoint my exact location LOL! The plant in the front is actually a lychee :)
Darn got that tree wrong, looks awfully close to a ficus sp. Especially the way the light shines off the leaves. Its kind of funny how much you can get from the picture if your familiar with the area and how pictures taken there should look. I hope I did not screw up your anonymous location to much lol.
Congrats on future dragon fruits :).
Oh, of course. That explains everything. Wait, do I know you? What’s going on, where am I? And what the hell does this smiley face mean :blank:?
Weren't you guys supposed to meet up at Behl's place last year as a group for grafting demonstration & brainstorming that ended up at your place with a few members short due to family ER?Darn got that tree wrong, looks awfully close to a ficus sp. Especially the way the light shines off the leaves. Its kind of funny how much you can get from the picture if your familiar with the area and how pictures taken there should look. I hope I did not screw up your anonymous location to much lol.
Congrats on future dragon fruits :).
Weren't you guys supposed to meet up at Behl's place last year as a group for grafting demonstration & brainstorming that ended up at your place with a few members short due to family ER?Darn got that tree wrong, looks awfully close to a ficus sp. Especially the way the light shines off the leaves. Its kind of funny how much you can get from the picture if your familiar with the area and how pictures taken there should look. I hope I did not screw up your anonymous location to much lol.
Congrats on future dragon fruits :).
Yeah, I think your right, Tim. I totally forgot associating the screen name with that. Not sure if any of the grafts took during that get together, but it was fun anyway. Fang was really informative and a very nice and patient person.
Interesting history lesson. I have 1s,5s and QOSF, so that means my PG and PH will need to be cross pollinated. Well good thing, I have a few other variety as well. Know anything about Phoenix Red, Arizona purple, Thai Red, guyute and Rodger's White?
Purple Haze & Physical Graffiti don't need to beInteresting history lesson. I have 1s,5s and QOSF, so that means my PG and PH will need to be cross pollinated. Well good thing, I have a few other variety as well. Know anything about Phoenix Red, Arizona purple, Thai Red, guyute and Rodger's White?
They aren’t exactly like fejoas. They aren’t as sweet as that and they have an earthy sort of flavor. I actually just had a Cereus peruvianus bloom and the petals taste similar.
I bought them 3 years avon, and the stems were very thick (2-3 inches). THey were about 2 feet tall, and seemed really vigorous. They have grown like crazy, but the stems are always very thin.
Aarrrggh! I am tired of buying my dragon fruit at the oriental market in Portland!
What am I doing wrong?
I also read some variety's don't need full sun but partially shade.
They absolutely need more light. When they don’t get enough light the stems get really thin and they grow extra long trying to reach the light (etiolated). When they get that much shade they rarely bloom. Those thin stems can’t hold much weight so either tie them really well to your trellis, which looks great by the way, or cut them back so they can re-grow some stout stems. Look at the pictures below, that’s how thick they should be. Those were grown under 30% shade cloth.
(http://s15.postimg.cc/l7r89o4qf/P6060019.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/l7r89o4qf/)
(http://s11.postimg.cc/c7a324az3/P6060020.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/c7a324az3/)
At first, my Yellow Dragon didn't like intense sunlight while it was getting established, it grew much faster under artificial light but once it got established, it was growing really well in full sunlight. Under artificial light and growing in 50% shade, the YD was growing really long and the growth rate was pretty fast but the stems were very thin and round or cylindrical, the stems were not wide and flattened out.
Now that it is established and gets at least 8 hours of direct sunlight, the stems are wide and strong. The Yellow Dragon and Frankie's Red are my two Dragonfruit that does not get sunburned at 95F+ heat in full sun. Here is a picture of the first fruits from my YD. It has Two larger fruit, one smaller fruit and four flower buds on it so far.
Simon
(http://s14.postimg.cc/jnzcvt5m5/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/jnzcvt5m5/)
(http://s14.postimg.cc/dlrq5bh65/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/dlrq5bh65/)
Simon,
My YD is done, had it's last flower over a month ago, I have some nice fruit, and they usually size up good. Where did you get your cuttings from? I got mine from seeds of a plant from England that made it's way to a friend in Vista and they get some large yellows. Trying to figure out if there are some different types of S. Megalanthus. I also just got a plant from Steve at Exotica that he says came from Trinidad, it looks like a Megalanthus, just need to wait for it to fruit in a few years.
I just harvested the last of 24 Dragon Fruits my trellis produced over the last few months. I was very impressed how sweet they were with highest brix reading at 18.4 The largest one shown on the scale in the photo below. I'm going to measure the brix of that one when I cut into it. And add a picture of the inside of it.
(http://s22.postimg.cc/qr2l4fa3x/20131105_102747.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/qr2l4fa3x/)
I just harvested the last of 24 Dragon Fruits my trellis produced over the last few months. I was very impressed how sweet they were with highest brix reading at 18.4 The largest one shown on the scale in the photo below. I'm going to measure the brix of that one when I cut into it. And add a picture of the inside of it.Congratulations!!! They seams great... enjoy! By the way you eat them like that or you make any recipe?
(http://s22.postimg.cc/qr2l4fa3x/20131105_102747.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/qr2l4fa3x/)
Nullzero I have Physical Graffiti and Haley's CometThank's Marin, i never try one but i'm shure i will in near time! :P
Luisport... I just eat them fresh like that. I like them a bit better when chilled but I will eat them fresh off the plant.
Yep, only two Joyce Greenlund plants still alive and I think I found one cutting of Punch (Paul's 3.5S) that still has some green on it, hoping it will root.
I should have mentioned that that evaluation isn’t mine and it was probably based on a single or small number of fruits. I think I only had the G2 bloom once and I don’t recall the fruit or even if it set. G2 on the other had fruited for me and is a very good fruit, in fact it’s fruit had the highest brix I saw, so I’d expect G1 to be good quality as well.
typo?
:P :P :P How lucky!!!
(http://s16.postimg.cc/f5ecu7rqp/DSCF5824.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/f5ecu7rqp/)
The common commercial yellow is around here in abundance at the moment
(http://s16.postimg.cc/f5ecu7rqp/DSCF5824.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/f5ecu7rqp/)
The common commercial yellow is around here in abundance at the moment
Luis - the Purple Haze & Physical Graffiti appear to have been planted upside down?Really? They are cut in the two sides... are you shure? It's my first time to plant DF... :o
Luis - the Purple Haze & Physical Graffiti appear to have been planted upside down?Looks upside down to me too.
Geezzz then i have to replant them... thak you very much! :-[ :-[ :-[Luis - the Purple Haze & Physical Graffiti appear to have been planted upside down?Looks upside down to me too.
Purple Haze is still upside downAnd now?
The purple haze is now planted in the right direction. Also, if you're not sure of any other cuttings, look at the little spine/thorns on the side of the cuttings, they should be pointing upwards and not down.Ho ok, now i get it... sorry! :-X
Hi everyone! How much time a cutting nead to fruit? There are any tip to make them flower sooner? Thank's! :)Could be 1st, 2nd, even 3rd year. Depends on the maturity of the cuttings taken. If the cuttings, a person is getting is already mature and had fruited previously. Most likely it will fruit again the same year it is planted out. Some advice I got from a Vietnamese DF grower, said to use lots of cow manure mix(1/3 of the mix should be cow manure) in with whatever soil your using to plant the DF cutting in. Let the DF branches hang. So make the stake/trellis not to tall (1.5-2 meters tall is a good height), cut the tip of the branches(once they start hanging over the stake/trellis, that is. And if too many branches are growing over and hanging, cut 1 out 3 branches off, but only the thinnest and smallest one though. So let the 2 fattest and thickest one continue growing over and hang, but also prune the tips back a little too. One more thing he said too, the more mature the cuttings and longer the cuttings, the faster it will fruit as well. One of my purple haze cutting was mature and had fruited before, I got it, so it even develop a flower bud, but stayed small, dried and fell off. This was also, when it first had rooted too(2 months after it had just rooted)
Haus, their sweetness rather than their size is notable and they have a lemonade taste.Those yellows are just a selection of Megalanthus and biggest ones are just under 1lb.
Hi everyone! How much time a cutting nead to fruit?
What type of wood did you use for your Dragon Fruit support?
What type of wood did you use for your Dragon Fruit support?
Pressure treated pine.
DM
Dangermouse01, thanks for the pics showing your dragon fruit pole setup.I have not noticed any of my DF not wanting to attach roots to the PT wood, except maybe the yellow, which doesn't seem to send out as many aerial roots as the others. The others all have varying amounts of roots attaching.
I also have Dragon Fruit up a pressure treated pole. I've noticed that the 'roots' of the dragon fruit hate the chemicals on the pole. I suppose this is why you wrapped your pole with those thread-sacks, very ingenious. I'm cosidering doing the same thing.
Also, thanks to your photos, I'm getting the idea of 'crowning' the top of the pole with the same wood structure that you're using. It looks very aesthetic, very nice.
Finally, I noticed that at the bottom of the pole, between the pole itself and the wood board planks that keep the worms out, I see in the photos something with a black coloration. If you don't mind and shine some light on what that is, I'd appreciate if you'd let us know what that is and its purpose, thanks again for all the wonderful photos.
Luis,Yes, i imagine that home grown dragonfruits are much better... well cuttings are very well but no new growings yet... i will update if they grow! ;) Thank you so much!
That's a nice looking store bought one, but if it were home grown, might have been a lot sweeter. The 4 varieties, I sent you are all red/magenta flesh kind and should be a lot better than that white one you got. How are they doing so far, any little roots forming yet?
Hi everyone! I just try for the first time a dragonfruit! I buy it as a red vietnamese pitaya (but was white inside). It was very expensive (21,99E/Kg) with a weight of 352g. I like it! Not a great flavour but very fresh and mildly sweet... Just hope to try the really red ones! ::)Luis, the price is huge! I bought one whiteflessed DF last week in the local SM for 7,50€/kg and I thought the price was very high. It was a big one 600-700g and imported from Cyprus! I didn't know that in Cyprus they produce DF in a commercial scale
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Luis,Thao my friend, this is one of my intentions, to sell dragonfruit on faire/small price to small fruit sellers... very few people know this fruit here because it's very expensive, and it's so good to health... :) what do you think?
Nice addition to your growing DF collection. Soon you can start selling the fresh fruits back to the market and the cuttings to nurseries, making your $$$ back 10x ;)
I'm very very ashamed... :-[ :-[ :-[
I went outside to check my dragon fruit trellis and train/ tie up some new growth and found these babies growing underneath!!!
I have been tossing the decaying flowers and the small fruits that aborted after not developing into the pot so maybe could it be possible that after they rotted the seeds germinated?? Just amazing to me. This trellis is now approaching 2 years old on Dec 31st and it's doing great. I got 2 dozen fruit off it this fall and they were all well over a pound with the highest brix reading at 18.6 (you have to click on pictures of the babies to open it then click on it again to get it to open to full screen...they are tiny!)
(http://s18.postimg.cc/l22h7gon9/20131123_141212.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/l22h7gon9/)
Hello to all,It's great to see you here! You will love this fórum! ;D
I'm a new member (indicated by Luis Port from Portugal) ...
I hope to learn and share information about pitayas / dragon fruits.
I am a collector of this fruit and hope to find people interested in exchanging quality plants.
What a great idea, I wish they had Dragon Fruit tastings around here in S. Florida, USA. In this way, anyone could decide which is the best quality, best tasting, sweetest fruit to grow.
I'm very very ashamed... :-[ :-[ :-[
Don't be ashamed.... I got my first Dragon Fruit cutting from a cactus vendor at a "flea market".
He sold me a big cutting he said had white fruit and explained how to plant (root) the cutting.
6 months later I figured out that he had told me the wrong end to place in the potting soil!
I'm want to make a set-up like MarinFla has in the pictures. This is the first time planting dragon fruit for me. Does it matter if I mix the type of dragon fruit on each post. I was going to put Halleys Comet and Vietnamese Jaina on the same post.Mike,
Thanks,
Mike
Has anyone ever used galvanized fence post to build a trellis to grow dragon fruits? I take it that they'll provide sturdier support and it would last much linger but I think they might get too hot during the summer.They do fine, but I'd use the thick conduit pipes, they are cheaper and work just as well. Or use one fence post and drill 4 holes and put rebar through making a cross, and then plant a plant on either side.
I'm want to make a set-up like MarinFla has in the pictures. This is the first time planting dragon fruit for me. Does it matter if I mix the type of dragon fruit on each post. I was going to put Halleys Comet and Vietnamese Jaina on the same post.I have Physical Graffiti and Haley's Comet both in mine. You can do as many as you like as long as you are OK with not being sure what variety your harvesting if you can't follow which branch it's growing on back to the originating plant. I can usually follow it back for ID
Thanks,
Mike
I have Physical Graffiti and Haley's Comet both in mine. You can do as many as you like as long as you are OK with not being sure what variety your harvesting if you can't follow which branch it's growing on back to the originating plant. I can usually follow it back for ID
It's fine, but eventually fades out over time. Maybe a metal/aluminum tag, that is commonly used for tagging plants, be hang around the main plant?I have Physical Graffiti and Haley's Comet both in mine. You can do as many as you like as long as you are OK with not being sure what variety your harvesting if you can't follow which branch it's growing on back to the originating plant. I can usually follow it back for ID
How's permanent marker do on DF, for ID (Plant not the fruit)?
Question:
I have a farm at 886ft on Maui, not too hot usually max summer around 83-5f and winters around 58-62f at coolest. Do you think fruit production will occur in this area that isnt real hot?
Yesterday, I ate the red fleshed pitahaya for the first time, I got the fruit from Indonesia, but I have to say, that it was the same experience like with the white fleshed one, both taste to me more like vegetable than fruit, something like radish, really not worth to grow as a fruit. But may be it is because of me, who grow up in Middle Europe, eating tens of different varieties of plum, apple, apricot, peaches, pear etc. :DHi! Do you try the yellow one? It's very very good, at least to me. It's worth to have it at least by all great health beneficts!
Yesterday, I ate the red fleshed pitahaya for the first time, I got the fruit from Indonesia, but I have to say, that it was the same experience like with the white fleshed one, both taste to me more like vegetable than fruit, something like radish, really not worth to grow as a fruit. But may be it is because of me, who grow up in Middle Europe, eating tens of different varieties of plum, apple, apricot, peaches, pear etc. :D
Yesterday, I ate the red fleshed pitahaya for the first time, I got the fruit from Indonesia, but I have to say, that it was the same experience like with the white fleshed one, both taste to me more like vegetable than fruit, something like radish, really not worth to grow as a fruit. But may be it is because of me, who grow up in Middle Europe, eating tens of different varieties of plum, apple, apricot, peaches, pear etc. :D
Yesterday, I ate the red fleshed pitahaya for the first time, I got the fruit from Indonesia, but I have to say, that it was the same experience like with the white fleshed one, both taste to me more like vegetable than fruit, something like radish, really not worth to grow as a fruit. But may be it is because of me, who grow up in Middle Europe, eating tens of different varieties of plum, apple, apricot, peaches, pear etc. :D
How's permanent marker do on DF, for ID (Plant not the fruit)?
I have an area about 6' from a small canal. I was thinking of planting several dragon fruit along the canal. Is it a good idea to plant dragon fruit that close to water or would I be better off planting it somewhere else.
Thanks,
Mike
They love water. They are a cactus, but keep in mind they are an under-story plant from a rainforest environment. They can survive long periods of drought but they do best with daily watering in most sub-tropical areas. Also they have a very shallow fibrous roots system, so unless it is constantly muddy along the canal I’d expect them to do fine. Over watering can cause the green part of the stem to rot but the core survives and I have never seen it kill a plant here in California. If you have poor draining soil you may want to watch the watering more closely, but in well drained soil they enjoy frequent waterings.
What about using pots?
What about using pots?
What I meant was, another option for planting Dragon Fruit next to the canal is to grow them in pots.
Phoenix Red, Voodoo Child, Giant Viet
(http://s16.postimg.cc/sxnwkl24x/IMAG0151.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/sxnwkl24x/)
Phoenix Red, Voodoo Child, Giant Viet
(http://s16.postimg.cc/sxnwkl24x/IMAG0151.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/sxnwkl24x/)
Phoenix Red, Voodoo Child, Giant Viet
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My Colombian red is doing pretty well for a year old.I presume it sets fruit better than most as it is self fertile.
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Every flower on the Colombian red sets fruit and I have been tanking up lately.They have a good taste being sweet with a bit of berry and kiwi going on.
Dangermouse01, thanks for the pics showing your dragon fruit pole setup.I have not noticed any of my DF not wanting to attach roots to the PT wood, except maybe the yellow, which doesn't seem to send out as many aerial roots as the others. The others all have varying amounts of roots attaching.
I also have Dragon Fruit up a pressure treated pole. I've noticed that the 'roots' of the dragon fruit hate the chemicals on the pole. I suppose this is why you wrapped your pole with those thread-sacks, very ingenious. I'm cosidering doing the same thing.
Also, thanks to your photos, I'm getting the idea of 'crowning' the top of the pole with the same wood structure that you're using. It looks very aesthetic, very nice.
Finally, I noticed that at the bottom of the pole, between the pole itself and the wood board planks that keep the worms out, I see in the photos something with a black coloration. If you don't mind and shine some light on what that is, I'd appreciate if you'd let us know what that is and its purpose, thanks again for all the wonderful photos.
The burlap wrapped around the post provides both a structure for the roots to grab on to, and retains moisture when spraying the DFs with liquid nutritional sprays.
Top of my trellis is loosely based on how I saw them done at the Fruit & Spice park.
Frames around the base of my posts were to re-direct my dogs running path and also was a planting bed for butterfly plants and stuff.
Something with black coloration? If it is in the picture of the held fruit, all that stuff is chopped up banana tree stalks rotting away. Is that the picture you saw it in?
DM
Pitaia do Cerrado (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUFXTNu3T_M#ws)(http://s24.postimg.cc/qnujkvcf5/Setaceus_Fruto_com_descri_o.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/qnujkvcf5/)
Is this Selenicereus setaceus species self fertile and productive? I was planing to get a rooted cutting maybe soon.Pitaia do Cerrado (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUFXTNu3T_M#ws)(http://s24.postimg.cc/qnujkvcf5/Setaceus_Fruto_com_descri_o.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/qnujkvcf5/)
Yes, it is (self fertile and productive)... The fruit is small, but very sweet.Is this Selenicereus setaceus species self fertile and productive? I was planing to get a rooted cutting maybe soon.Pitaia do Cerrado (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUFXTNu3T_M#ws)(http://s24.postimg.cc/qnujkvcf5/Setaceus_Fruto_com_descri_o.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/qnujkvcf5/)
I Aldomoro, congratulations! It's beautifull! ;)Yes, it is (self fertile and productive)... The fruit is small, but very sweet.Is this Selenicereus setaceus species self fertile and productive? I was planing to get a rooted cutting maybe soon.Pitaia do Cerrado (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUFXTNu3T_M#ws)(http://s24.postimg.cc/qnujkvcf5/Setaceus_Fruto_com_descri_o.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/qnujkvcf5/)
Thanks, just the info, I was looking for, but one more question.Yes, it is (self fertile and productive)... The fruit is small, but very sweet.Is this Selenicereus setaceus species self fertile and productive? I was planing to get a rooted cutting maybe soon.Pitaia do Cerrado (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUFXTNu3T_M#ws)(http://s24.postimg.cc/qnujkvcf5/Setaceus_Fruto_com_descri_o.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/qnujkvcf5/)
Nice, any root development yet, that you have notice on the ones, I sent to your earlier?Hi my friend, they look nice, but no growing yet... ???
Yes, it is (self fertile and productive)... The fruit is small, but very sweet.Is this Selenicereus setaceus species self fertile and productive? I was planing to get a rooted cutting maybe soon.Pitaia do Cerrado (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUFXTNu3T_M#ws)(http://s24.postimg.cc/qnujkvcf5/Setaceus_Fruto_com_descri_o.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/qnujkvcf5/)
Just get a new one, a Bloody Mary dragon! I have 12 diferent var already! ;D Tomorrow will post pic.Bloody mary cuting...
Just get a new one, a Bloody Mary dragon! I have 12 diferent var already! ;D Tomorrow will post pic.
Well i didn't have none, but start to buy or trade, and in few time i have all this diferent ones... but there are any problem? ;)Just get a new one, a Bloody Mary dragon! I have 12 diferent var already! ;D Tomorrow will post pic.
Why do you have 12 different Dragon Fruit varieties?
Why do you have 12 different Dragon Fruit varieties?Well i didn't have none, but start to buy or trade, and in few time i have all this diferent ones... but there are any problem? ;)
Yes i plan to select the best fruit varieties, but it's too early... only when they fruitify i can decide... my plan is to turn on a producer here... there are no dragonfruit production here in Portugal.Why do you have 12 different Dragon Fruit varieties?Well i didn't have none, but start to buy or trade, and in few time i have all this diferent ones... but there are any problem? ;)
No problem, just curious.
Do you plan to grow 12 different varieties of Dragon Fruit to maturity?
I am fairly new to growing Dragon Fruit. When I started, I collected every type of cutting I could get my hands on.
Eventually, it was time to repot some plants with trellis and start thinking about getting some fruit.
That is when I decided on which Dragon Fruit varieties I wanted to grow. Which is only 4 - 5 (two varieties with multiple plants, the others are pollinators).
I understand all about collecting. I have a collection of a dozen tropical clumping bamboo planted in my garden.
Yes i plan to select the best fruit varieties, but it's too early... only when they fruitify i can decide... my plan is to turn on a producer here... there are no dragonfruit production here in Portugal.
Hi guys
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Here is my dragon fruit!!
From the picture, if you look closely, you can see it grown in that grey square container with some kind of trellis/stake support in the middle? Correct me if I'm wrong DaviB :)Hi guys
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Here is my dragon fruit!!
NICE!! What do use for support?
From the picture, if you look closely, you can see it grown in that grey square container with some kind of trellis/stake support in the middle? Correct me if I'm wrong DaviB :)Hi guys
(http://s10.postimg.cc/5yg10b58l/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5yg10b58l/)
Here is my dragon fruit!!
NICE!! What do use for support?
Hi guys
(http://s10.postimg.cc/5yg10b58l/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5yg10b58l/)
Here is my dragon fruit!!
Saw some lovely photos as well! We done guys!
Question I have for you dragon fruit lovers:
Have you are a flower where it just buldges??
I have a lot more!
But here is the weird one I was referring too
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Hi guys
(http://s10.postimg.cc/5yg10b58l/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5yg10b58l/)
Here is my dragon fruit!!
Saw some lovely photos as well! We done guys!
Question I have for you dragon fruit lovers:
Have you are a flower where it just buldges??
Anyone have info on the Lisa #4 dragon fruit? The vine seems to be a lot thicker than the rest of the varieties. I suspect this is more heat and cold tolerant?
What does the number represent? Is it a number that represents a seedling from a fruit that was hand pollinated?
It's good to know that it has high brix and its also heat and cold tolerant. It's a keeper.
Valdivia roja is one I really like. Small fruits but very flavorful. One year I went to Irvine and there were no fruits on the plants. So I think it's not self pollinating and probably needs cross pollination. I'm still waiting for mine to shoot out of the pot.
Here is an update on my yellow DF. This is the first year it fruited for me and these first two fruit are not that large. I'm hoping they will get larger next year. I wonder if they would be larger if the two didn't grow right next to each other? There is another green fruit on another branch that appears to be larger than these and there are another three flowers about to open. These two fruit still have some green on them but are mostly yellow, do you think they are ready to harvest or will they taste better if I leave them until they are completely yellow?
Simon
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You can take one of my potted ones. It will need staking and maybe pruning.Valdivia roja is one I really like. Small fruits but very flavorful. One year I went to Irvine and there were no fruits on the plants. So I think it's not self pollinating and probably needs cross pollination. I'm still waiting for mine to shoot out of the pot.
I really want it now!
You can take one of my potted ones. It will need staking and maybe pruning.Valdivia roja is one I really like. Small fruits but very flavorful. One year I went to Irvine and there were no fruits on the plants. So I think it's not self pollinating and probably needs cross pollination. I'm still waiting for mine to shoot out of the pot.
I really want it now!
Question, is it advisable to plant out multiple varieties of pitaya/dragon fruit within close proximity? I'm new to dragon fruit and preparing to plant multiple vines of the smaller orange and yellow pitaya. In addition, I anticipate planting many of the larger fruited varieties in the near future.
In general, is close enough proximity for cross pollination between varieties a good thing or not? Thanks.
Thanks Harry and Mike T,Simon, I picked my last one over a month ago, since we have the same weather, and my do get a bit larger I wonder if there are slight variations in Colombia also.
I'll probably just harvest them tomorrow do the insides don't get mushy. I believe there Mark may have the larger fruited variety as his fruit were quite wide in the middle and the stems also look slightly different than mine. I wish I kept the seeds of the Giant Yellow DF I ate in Hong Kong. The ones I ate in Hong Kong were almost too sweet, it was like eating spoonfulls of Agave nectar. From my memory, I actually prefer varieties like Halley's Comet, American Beauty and Simons purple. I like having the yellow because they ripen in a different season compared to the other DF varieties.
Simon
Yes i plan to select the best fruit varieties, but it's too early... only when they fruitify i can decide... my plan is to turn on a producer here... there are no dragonfruit production here in Portugal.Why do you have 12 different Dragon Fruit varieties?Well i didn't have none, but start to buy or trade, and in few time i have all this diferent ones... but there are any problem? ;)
No problem, just curious.
Do you plan to grow 12 different varieties of Dragon Fruit to maturity?
I am fairly new to growing Dragon Fruit. When I started, I collected every type of cutting I could get my hands on.
Eventually, it was time to repot some plants with trellis and start thinking about getting some fruit.
That is when I decided on which Dragon Fruit varieties I wanted to grow. Which is only 4 - 5 (two varieties with multiple plants, the others are pollinators).
I understand all about collecting. I have a collection of a dozen tropical clumping bamboo planted in my garden.
I read it is 10 pounds of plant weight, have no idea how to get them to flower earlier.
Hi ricshaw,
We need different varieties of DF for cross pollination. Most of the colored dragon fruit plants (red, pink, and purple flesh) here in the U.S. are not self-fertile ( not self-fertile means that the plant will not set fruit with it's own pollen). So we need pollen from other varieties.
Anyone have info on the Lisa #4 dragon fruit? The vine seems to be a lot thicker than the rest of the varieties. I suspect this is more heat and cold tolerant?
I read it is 10 pounds of plant weight, have no idea how to get them to flower earlier.
Hi Luisport,
You need about 3 years if you grow from a 2 ft- cutting, and about 5 years from a shorter cutting (like 10 inches).
Well we will see what i will get this year... i'm hoping to have some fruit next year, but i will wait with all patience! ;DI read it is 10 pounds of plant weight, have no idea how to get them to flower earlier.
Hi Luisport,
You need about 3 years if you grow from a 2 ft- cutting, and about 5 years from a shorter cutting (like 10 inches).
Not true in my sub tropical climate. Mine fruited in just under 1-1/2 yrs from a few 6 -8 inch cuttings planted/started in December
Hey Mark, I'm glad the cuttings are rooting nicely for you. I just harvested my first two yellow dragons yesterday and they are really small. The larger one was only 7.75 Oz. These first two fruit are going to relatives that have never tasted the yellow before so I won't be able to provide a taste report until I harvest the next one. I would love a cutting of your Yellow Dragon and Lisa if you have any available.Thanks Harry and Mike T,Simon, I picked my last one over a month ago, since we have the same weather, and my do get a bit larger I wonder if there are slight variations in Colombia also.
I'll probably just harvest them tomorrow do the insides don't get mushy. I believe there Mark may have the larger fruited variety as his fruit were quite wide in the middle and the stems also look slightly different than mine. I wish I kept the seeds of the Giant Yellow DF I ate in Hong Kong. The ones I ate in Hong Kong were almost too sweet, it was like eating spoonfulls of Agave nectar. From my memory, I actually prefer varieties like Halley's Comet, American Beauty and Simons purple. I like having the yellow because they ripen in a different season compared to the other DF varieties.
Simon
Bye the way I still have Voodoo Child and Houghton ripening. Also, all of the cuttings I got from you are rooted nice already.
I also noticed that the Lisa I received in 2011 at the Irvine Festival is a real slow grower.
Good one! :P Maby in 3 years i will get them too... ;D
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Larger fruit
Simon, no problem getting you some cuttings. Get ahold of me.Hey Mark, I'm glad the cuttings are rooting nicely for you. I just harvested my first two yellow dragons yesterday and they are really small. The larger one was only 7.75 Oz. These first two fruit are going to relatives that have never tasted the yellow before so I won't be able to provide a taste report until I harvest the next one. I would love a cutting of your Yellow Dragon and Lisa if you have any available.Thanks Harry and Mike T,Simon, I picked my last one over a month ago, since we have the same weather, and my do get a bit larger I wonder if there are slight variations in Colombia also.
I'll probably just harvest them tomorrow do the insides don't get mushy. I believe there Mark may have the larger fruited variety as his fruit were quite wide in the middle and the stems also look slightly different than mine. I wish I kept the seeds of the Giant Yellow DF I ate in Hong Kong. The ones I ate in Hong Kong were almost too sweet, it was like eating spoonfulls of Agave nectar. From my memory, I actually prefer varieties like Halley's Comet, American Beauty and Simons purple. I like having the yellow because they ripen in a different season compared to the other DF varieties.
Simon
Bye the way I still have Voodoo Child and Houghton ripening. Also, all of the cuttings I got from you are rooted nice already.
I also noticed that the Lisa I received in 2011 at the Irvine Festival is a real slow grower.
Simon
is it possible to fruit DFs in pots without supports? I know they won't be as productive, but does it have to get to 100s of lbs of weight? I am deterred by the support structure.
This is the first time i've tried to grow dragon fruit. How do I cut the branches(?) that are growing out horizontally. If I try and force them vertical they will break.
Thanks,
Mike
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is it possible to fruit DFs in pots without supports? I know they won't be as productive, but does it have to get to 100s of lbs of weight? I am deterred by the support structure.
If you don't like the support structure grow Cereus sp. instead. Good selections of Cereus sp. can get very close to DF in taste.
This is the first time i've tried to grow dragon fruit. How do I cut the branches(?) that are growing out horizontally. If I try and force them vertical they will break.
Thanks,
Mike
(http://s27.postimg.cc/eyrlmemgv/dragon_fruit.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/eyrlmemgv/)
Mark/Simon (san diego folk) When are most of your fruit ready to be picked?I get my regular hybrids (not yellow megalanthus) starting in mid summer and if it's a warm winter then up to February, 2 crops.
is it possible to fruit DFs in pots without supports? I know they won't be as productive, but does it have to get to 100s of lbs of weight? I am deterred by the support structure.
Do you know where to acquire these cereus that taste good?
Also, do they have colored flesh like DFs or just white inside?
Very interested but DF has so much more info, namely PIN's website.
How do cereus differ from hylocereus in terms of growth habit, requirements, etc.?
Thanks!
Do you know where to acquire these cereus that taste good?
Also, do they have colored flesh like DFs or just white inside?
Very interested but DF has so much more info, namely PIN's website.
How do cereus differ from hylocereus in terms of growth habit, requirements, etc.?
Thanks!
Yes there is Cereus sp. out there with red/purple flesh. I have one Cereus sp. that was sold to me stating the fruit was purple flesh. I am not sure how the taste is, but I am sure it will easily cross with other Cereus sp. There is also orange and yellow skinned fruit.
Quote
Do you know where to acquire these cereus that taste good?
Also, do they have colored flesh like DFs or just white inside?
Very interested but DF has so much more info, namely PIN's website.
How do cereus differ from hylocereus in terms of growth habit, requirements, etc.?
Thanks!
I am not an expert...
I have not seen Cereus with colored flesh fruit.
I think Cereus is more of a desert columber cactus and Hylocereus is a climbing tropical cactus.
Mark/Simon (san diego folk) When are most of your fruit ready to be picked?
Thanks Harry and Mike T,
I'll probably just harvest them tomorrow do the insides don't get mushy. I believe there Mark may have the larger fruited variety as his fruit were quite wide in the middle and the stems also look slightly different than mine. I wish I kept the seeds of the Giant Yellow DF I ate in Hong Kong. The ones I ate in Hong Kong were almost too sweet, it was like eating spoonfulls of Agave nectar. From my memory, I actually prefer varieties like Halley's Comet, American Beauty and Simons purple. I like having the yellow because they ripen in a different season compared to the other DF varieties.
Simon
Hello, I new to dragon fruit, and have been reading all the replies to the discussion. I only own, the common, Physical Graffiti. I am interested in any dragon fruit, especially the 'Yellow (spiky fruit)', and 'Condor'. I am also interested in the most dark fleshed variety, possibly, 'Lisa'. I'm happy to finally join the tread after reading all the previous comments. ;D
Nice to meet you,
Nate ;)
Am I alone in preferring Opuntia ficus-indica fruit to any of the Hylocereus?
Am I alone in preferring Opuntia ficus-indica fruit to any of the Hylocereus?
I have had an excellent Opuntia that had no seeds and had sweet tasty flesh, I ranked it a 9 out of 10.
I have had an excellent Opuntia that had no seeds and had sweet tasty flesh, I ranked it a 9 out of 10.
If it does not have a name... you could name it "Nullzero" and distribute it and become famous! ;)
Its a PARL #, I have to check my notes (just checked). However there was no cross pollination of other flowers at the time (it was the only flower and fruit).
PARL 244, Flowering 5/26, Fruit Ripe 9/2 (seedless, only fruit) Excellent tasting, sweet honeydew melon taste."
Its a PARL #, I have to check my notes (just checked). However there was no cross pollination of other flowers at the time (it was the only flower and fruit).
PARL 244, Flowering 5/26, Fruit Ripe 9/2 (seedless, only fruit) Excellent tasting, sweet honeydew melon taste."
Did you get it from the National Arid Land Plant Genetic Resources Unit?
Am I alone in preferring Opuntia ficus-indica fruit to any of the Hylocereus?
I view them equally as tasty as Dragon Fruit. I think most people shy away from Opuntia sp. fruits, due to the glochids and spines involved. Also the seeds are a major turn off for people.
I have had an excellent Opuntia that had no seeds and had sweet tasty flesh, I ranked it a 9 out of 10.
Am I alone in preferring Opuntia ficus-indica fruit to any of the Hylocereus?
I view them equally as tasty as Dragon Fruit. I think most people shy away from Opuntia sp. fruits, due to the glochids and spines involved. Also the seeds are a major turn off for people.
I have had an excellent Opuntia that had no seeds and had sweet tasty flesh, I ranked it a 9 out of 10.
Opuntia are very fine fruits, better than DF in most cases, the downside being the high number of small, hard seeds. Similar to guava.
Anybody who can't successfully use a chef's torch to deal with glochids and spines has no business growing prickly pear. It isn't rocket science.
I have a selection I made call Torrance PCH#1, the fruit can be handled bare hand because the limited amount of glochids blows off with rain and wind over time. I harvested one by hand in FL and it had no glochids on it. Seeds are smaller and softer then usual as well.
Question, is it advisable to plant out multiple varieties of pitaya/dragon fruit within close proximity? I'm new to dragon fruit and preparing to plant multiple vines of the smaller orange and yellow pitaya. In addition, I anticipate planting many of the larger fruited varieties in the near future.
In general, is close enough proximity for cross pollination between varieties a good thing or not? Thanks.
IMO it is a good idea to plant more than one variety of Dragon Fruit within close proximity. Last year I had red flesh Nicaraguan Dragon Fruit that produced dozens of flowers, BUT... I did not have other flowering Dragon Fruit plants to pollinate it. When I did, I got good tasting fruit. Cross pollination between varieties is a good thing.
If you are trying to grow Opuntia ficus-indica, then get the sicilian Orange type. It is the best. WAY better then any store bought one. It has a nice flavor and grows well. Trust me you will love this cactus.
QuoteI have a selection I made call Torrance PCH#1, the fruit can be handled bare hand because the limited amount of glochids blows off with rain and wind over time. I harvested one by hand in FL and it had no glochids on it. Seeds are smaller and softer then usual as well.
Do you think think the glochids would fall off in little rain? I live in AZ, but we do have strong wind. I know that Prickly Pear is a state symbol, but I am interested in a glochid-free or an easy glochid removal variety.
La Verne is experimenting with growing Dragon Fruit from seeds:
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/CRFG/La%20Verne/df_4219_zps1673c3fd.jpg)
Wow, La Verne Dragon Fruit Nursery doesn't play around, so far this is the best DF Nursery that I've ever seen. By growing DF from seeds, they are sure to develop DF of superb quality and taste, impressive.
"Ice Cream" pitaya?Could just be a re name variety? I saw two variety for sale online and they were called "Strawberry Sorbet" and "Raspberry Delight" ??? ::) :D
I found 8 pots of pitaya abandoned and neglected -- obviously for years -- at the back of my lot. Two of them had no labels. The other 6 had labels identifying their varieties as 2 Delights, 1 American Beauty, 1 Halley's Comet, 1 "Red", and 1 "Ice Cream". I've heard of the first 5, but never heard mention of the "Ice Cream" variety. The plant was in awful shape, with just a couple of half dried out sections with some green left on them. There was some root left and that central woody stalk inside the fleshy part had some green still going. I've salvaged the last two pieces and stuck them in some moist potting soil and placed them in some mottled shade. If one of them manages to catch hold and produce a new healthy green section I'll try to plant it and see what gives. I'm intrigued because I've never seen any reference to the Ice Cream variety before. Anybody ever heard of it? Is what I'm doing worth the trouble?
Nice! My only additional comment is that mine do better in direct sunlight. Not sure how much bloom you'll get in shade.
Cool! a pre-built trellis!
I've been collecting dragon fruit from various places around the city. Mostly in the older neighborhoods where they are growing up tall trees. I even saw one growing in the scrub along miner rd in the middle of nowhere up a tall pine tree so I pulled over and grabbed some of that. Without a good plan of where to put all these I went and made some t-posts for them. I picked up the three varieties Excalibur sells also though I'm not sure of there names..(maybe Rob knows)…Cristella just told me the color of flesh/skin of each… The other dragon fruit I've been 'wild' collecting I just mark with the name of the street from where I got it…dragon fruit grows like a weed at my house..and yeah, I know, clear the grass from around them…easy,I just built this two days..
(http://s1.postimg.cc/thw38kg2j/IMG_0543.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/thw38kg2j/)
now I'm gonna have to paddle my kayak across and take a look..will report back!Cool! a pre-built trellis!
I've been collecting dragon fruit from various places around the city. Mostly in the older neighborhoods where they are growing up tall trees. I even saw one growing in the scrub along miner rd in the middle of nowhere up a tall pine tree so I pulled over and grabbed some of that. Without a good plan of where to put all these I went and made some t-posts for them. I picked up the three varieties Excalibur sells also though I'm not sure of there names..(maybe Rob knows)…Cristella just told me the color of flesh/skin of each… The other dragon fruit I've been 'wild' collecting I just mark with the name of the street from where I got it…dragon fruit grows like a weed at my house..and yeah, I know, clear the grass from around them…easy,I just built this two days..
(http://s1.postimg.cc/thw38kg2j/IMG_0543.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/thw38kg2j/)
Mike,
How is the fruit quality on the Cereus sp. in the background?
now I'm gonna have to paddle my kayak across and take a look..will report back!Cool! a pre-built trellis!
I've been collecting dragon fruit from various places around the city. Mostly in the older neighborhoods where they are growing up tall trees. I even saw one growing in the scrub along miner rd in the middle of nowhere up a tall pine tree so I pulled over and grabbed some of that. Without a good plan of where to put all these I went and made some t-posts for them. I picked up the three varieties Excalibur sells also though I'm not sure of there names..(maybe Rob knows)…Cristella just told me the color of flesh/skin of each… The other dragon fruit I've been 'wild' collecting I just mark with the name of the street from where I got it…dragon fruit grows like a weed at my house..and yeah, I know, clear the grass from around them…easy,I just built this two days..
(http://s1.postimg.cc/thw38kg2j/IMG_0543.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/thw38kg2j/)
Mike,
How is the fruit quality on the Cereus sp. in the background?
10 hours of light a day is the commonly suggested amount for inducing flowering. If your DF doesn't thicken up or stays dark green instead of getting a little bit yellow, then you need to move it. Or put supplemental lighting if you really want to.Nice! My only additional comment is that mine do better in direct sunlight. Not sure how much bloom you'll get in shade.
Crap!
There is afternoon or early evening sun in that spot, the sun shines over the top. I hope that's enough.
Not sure what else to put there. It's a north facing wall.
It's Either that or sugarcane and sugar cane needs direct sun too...
I read the forum post about dragon fruit getting sunburn so I figure it would be ok.
I got to test it out unless I find something to put there.
Would monstera deliciosa work?
Any suggestion for a north facing wall?
Warren, I still have a few large cuttings you could have. I'm not sure how good Purple Haze is but I heard it was good.Sure. I sent you a PM.
Definitely try American Beauty. It's a night and day difference.
Warren, I'll let you know when my dragonfruit plants have fruits, so you can see what they really taste like.Thanks Rodney! I'll take you up on your offer.
Definitely try American Beauty. It's a night and day difference.
What does it taste like?
Any one know of a place where I can mail order the fruit in. Don't want to waste my time on something we might not like.
One moreHow lucky!!! Sortudo!!! ;D
(http://s23.postimg.cc/v2ep4urif/DSC_0107.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/v2ep4urif/)
A few days ago I started noticing what I think it could be a flower bud on a cutting. I planted this in January. Is this possible???Yes, very possible for a newly rooted cutting to have a flower bud. Just don't have your hopes too high ;D One of mine Purple Haze cutting, was like that too, but the flower bud never develop and dried/dropped off. I'm guessing, since, not enough root system has develop to support a fruit/flower yet. As it had just been rooted not too long ago and develop a strong root system for supporting such energy consuming growth yet. Though, I have seen online pictures of some cuttings with a fully mature fruit developing from it.
(http://s21.postimg.cc/mqy27l0mr/DSC_0104.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/mqy27l0mr/)
(http://s27.postimg.cc/dy9lnkmfj/DSC_0106.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/dy9lnkmfj/)
A few days ago I started noticing what I think it could be a flower bud on a cutting. I planted this in January. Is this possible???Yes, very possible for a newly rooted cutting to have a flower bud. Just don't have your hopes too high ;D One of mine Purple Haze cutting, was like that too, but the flower bud never develop and dried/dropped off. I'm guessing, since, not enough root system has develop to support a fruit/flower yet. As it had just been rooted not too long ago and develop a strong root system for supporting such energy consuming growth yet. Though, I have seen online pictures of some cuttings with a fully mature fruit developing from it.
(http://s21.postimg.cc/mqy27l0mr/DSC_0104.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/mqy27l0mr/)
(http://s27.postimg.cc/dy9lnkmfj/DSC_0106.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/dy9lnkmfj/)
The reason for cuttings to develop such as that, is mainly due to being older mature cuttings, it came from. Either your cutting cam from a long branch that had previous fruit on it or is going to develop a flower bud, but was trimmed off.
BTW, that is a flower bud, congrats, hope it makes it to maturity and not dried and drop off :)
Hi everyone! How much time a cutting nead to fruit?
I got my first bunch (7 total) of cuttings in Aug 2011, the all looked pretty much like this in February 2012.
A month later in August 2013, Dark Star looked like this.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/DS_08-23-13_zpsedf2415c.jpg)
I got fruit from all 7 this year. So from cuttings in Aug 2011 to fruit harvesting 2 years later in Aug 2013.
And not all had as much growth as the Dark Star, here is my Vietnamese Jaina with flowers from Sept this year.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/VJ_09-13-13_zps322714c1.jpg)
DM
I think I've figured out how to properly install the wood 'crown,' that appears in the above picture, on top of my round peg post.
At the top of the post, I'll cut out some indentations, about the width of the 2''X4'' wood, perpendicular to and on opposite sides at the top of the pole. The whole thing will then be secured by a standard screw-lug on each side of the top of the pole, just as shown in the pictures above. In this way, after the 'crown' is secured by the two screws, the indentations will hold the crown in place, and prevent the weight of future dragon fruit tentacles, to collapse the 'wood crown' towards one side or the other.
I have an AmericanBeauty in the ground going on three years. No production yet. It was hammered this winter and i did not protect it at all.
Very Darwinian of me, but it has lived. Its in a raised bed and gets good sun (6 hours/day or so). I wonder if the Houston humidity affects it? I have it
on a south facing 7 foot fence. No pictures at this tme since it looks very ragged. My neighbor keeps wacking at the branches that grow over or through
the fence on her side.
I think I've figured out how to properly install the wood 'crown,' that appears in the above picture, on top of my round peg post.
At the top of the post, I'll cut out some indentations, about the width of the 2''X4'' wood, perpendicular to and on opposite sides at the top of the pole. The whole thing will then be secured by a standard screw-lug on each side of the top of the pole, just as shown in the pictures above. In this way, after the 'crown' is secured by the two screws, the indentations will hold the crown in place, and prevent the weight of future dragon fruit tentacles, to collapse the 'wood crown' towards one side or the other.
You could always drill two holes, at right angle, near the top and insert 1/2" rebar making a four-spoke support for 6" x 6" heavy wire mesh like they did at the UC Irvine test field.
Thanks for your suggestion. And, yes, although the wire mesh method is another valid option that I've seen at nurseries, I regard it to be somewhat industrious looking. I prefer the wood 'crown' method because it appears to me as somewhat more domestic. Nevertheless, I'm planning on using pressure treated wood, the same as the pole. Now that everything seems to be planned out, it's time for action. I'll report back when its all said and done.
Hmm ... I used to have a passion for dragonfruit, but now that I just started my yard, there doesn't seem to be enough room. I don't know, but it seems that dragonfruit is nor as popular and received by the public as citrus, mostly because of a bad experience with a store bought one. I'm mostly thinking mangoes, citrus and passionfruit. I seems like dragonfruit is simply just super sweet and 'refreshing', but citrus covers that. The super sweet factor made me change my mind of figs as well. Can someone remind me why dragonfruit is worth growing? :-\
Is 5 hours of sunlight enough for dragonfruit?It may not be enough to induce flowering. I have always heard 10 hours. You can always try and if not enough, provide supplement lighting for the missing hours.
maybe I can let them grow up and over the roof area (15ft) ...then they will get more sun.
maybe I can let them grow up and over the roof area (15ft) ...then they will get more sun.
If you have some palm trees you can grow them up the trunks.
If you have some palm trees you can grow them up the trunks.
If you have some palm trees you can grow them up the trunks.
and climb the palm tree to pollinate the flowers and later to pick the fruit. ::)
maybe I can let them grow up and over the roof area (15ft) ...then they will get more sun.
If you have some palm trees you can grow them up the trunks.
So, then I would just need to build a ring/crown around the trunk at a certain height so the limbs can hang over?
maybe I can let them grow up and over the roof area (15ft) ...then they will get more sun.
If you have some palm trees you can grow them up the trunks.
So, then I would just need to build a ring/crown around the trunk at a certain height so the limbs can hang over?
(http://s24.postimg.cc/3xct55y41/001.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/3xct55y41/)
I have been having problems with fruit fly maggots. Got these very cheep on ebay [ ~$5.60/50 ] & I am testing but seems like may not be big en ought; was hard to get on but that do to the scale on the fruit.
The pore size of the netting is very small, perhaps spider mites could get in? Also wonder if heat build up will be a problem?
The bags are 5 X 7 " & the netting very fine/ bags used for gifts
You can cut anywhere. The size of your pieces will determine how fast they'll grow to maturity. If you make a small enough piece, it will revert to a juvenile state where new growth is thin and fuzzy rather than with thicker thorns.
I am very amazed at just how fast these plants grow! Below are the pictures comparing January to March and the growth in just 2 months!
January 2012
(http://s15.postimage.org/isdp9iuyv/20111231_163333.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/isdp9iuyv/)
Oh Marin I am sorry to hear about the accident!
I agree telling the difference between cultivars is difficult and I honestly have no clue where to start. Speaking of ID-ing DF cultivars my brother recently brought home some cuttings from a friends neighbor without any info about the DF. I have provided pics of the new cuttings next to the currently growing cuttings we gathered from the wild DF in Boca Raton. The noticeable difference is that the new cuttings are dark green, have 7 spines, and are thicker. Any help with cultivar ID is much appreciated.
New cutting on left in dark green.
(http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n487/joep450/05e7c0d7.jpg)
Seven spines on new cutting.
(http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n487/joep450/0a7778dd.jpg)
Only four spines on wild boca raton find.
(http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n487/joep450/ff5567b1.jpg)
Paul Thomson's hybrids:
- Halley's Comet
- Physical Graffiti (fastest growing)
- Delight
- S8 (Voodoo Child, Arizona Purple)
Oh Marin I am sorry to hear about the accident!
I agree telling the difference between cultivars is difficult and I honestly have no clue where to start. Speaking of ID-ing DF cultivars my brother recently brought home some cuttings from a friends neighbor without any info about the DF. I have provided pics of the new cuttings next to the currently growing cuttings we gathered from the wild DF in Boca Raton. The noticeable difference is that the new cuttings are dark green, have 7 spines, and are thicker. Any help with cultivar ID is much appreciated.
New cutting on left in dark green.
(http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n487/joep450/05e7c0d7.jpg)
Seven spines on new cutting.
(http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n487/joep450/0a7778dd.jpg)
Only four spines on wild boca raton find.
(http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n487/joep450/ff5567b1.jpg)
Would that burlap material work over treated wood?
Would that burlap material work over treated wood?
All my trellises are made of pressure treated pine with burlap wrapped around the vertical post.
Dark Star this morning.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/DS_05-30-2014_zps9e43c44c.jpg)
DM
I am new here and i need some help. I plan to use a 6 feet post and use a big pot. The fear i have is of the post falling. Which is the best metod to hold the post in place against weight or weather(we got lots of hurricanes here in puerto rico). I dont think the dirt i use will be enough.
Ill am thinking of using a concrete block.
I think we threw away half of the second one this morning as it wasn't't worth the effort.
yeah those vietnamese jaina DFs give the fruit a bad rep
There were some confusion about that but forum members with experience said they're different. I only have AZ purple.Paul Thomson's hybrids:
- Halley's Comet
- Physical Graffiti (fastest growing)
- Delight
- S8 (Voodoo Child, Arizona Purple)
Does that mean Voodoo & AZ Purple are the same thing (S8)?
Adding to the confusion....Is voodoo child the same as American beauty and is home depot red DFvoodoo child?There were some confusion about that but forum members with experience said they're different. I only have AZ purple.Paul Thomson's hybrids:
- Halley's Comet
- Physical Graffiti (fastest growing)
- Delight
- S8 (Voodoo Child, Arizona Purple)
Does that mean Voodoo & AZ Purple are the same thing (S8)?
My 'Physical Graffiti' stopped growing during the winter and well into the spring. I started watering it everyday, and it has finally pushed for new growth. However, the entire plant looks unhealthy, as it is light green and has light brown spots. What should I do?
Adding to the confusion....Is voodoo child the same as American beauty and is home depot red DFvoodoo child?
Adding to the confusion....Is voodoo child the same as American beauty and is home depot red DFvoodoo child?
La Verne Nursery's "Red" (Home Depot and Lowe's) was one of the first Dragon Fruit I bought.
This year I already have 14 flower buds on my 4 year old plant and 6 flowers have opened in the last couple of days.
La Verne "Red" is Not self-fertile.
IMO, the plant and fruit resemble the named Dragon Fruit variety "Armando".
At the last Pitahaya Festival, there was talk that the Voodoo Child is close to S-8 "Sugar Dragon", but not the exact same plant.
Nice Halley's Comet. Is that a flower but I see near the tip of that really long branch at about 2 o clock in the picture, its about the level of the white flowers?
Simon
I am curious about using a tree stump. I have an almond tree and a coconut tree that were cut off at 5-6 feet tall. The plan is to run the DF vines up the stumps, but I am concerned that the tree stumps, especially the coconut will rot away and just when the vines get growing, and are heavy. Should I abandon this notion, and cut down the stumps and just use PT lumber?
I am curious about using a tree stump. I have an almond tree and a coconut tree that were cut off at 5-6 feet tall. The plan is to run the DF vines up the stumps, but I am concerned that the tree stumps, especially the coconut will rot away and just when the vines get growing, and are heavy. Should I abandon this notion, and cut down the stumps and just use PT lumber?
I am faced with the same dilemma here re' planting DF against a cut palm. I have been waiting for the answers to this question. I am leaning toward just taking a chainsaw to the 6' palm stump that I had reserved for the exact same concerns you raised. I don't want to take the risk that the Palm carcass will suddenly give way in 4 years leaving me with a pile of broken DF cuttings instead of a vibrant fruiting Beauty.
If anyone has used dead palm trunks for DF trellis, please chime in. I am still on the fence but leaning more and more towards the chainsaw and yet another Hugelkultur.
I decided to plant a couple of DF against the Palo Brea stump. We left it about 6' tall for this purpose. Although Palo Brea wood is about as soft as pine wood, at least the girth of the trunk should allow us many years of DF support... I hope...
Your almond wood should be more dense than Palo Brea wood. Did you decide to use it?
Adding to the confusion....Is voodoo child the same as American beauty and is home depot red DFvoodoo child?
La Verne Nursery's "Red" (Home Depot and Lowe's) was one of the first Dragon Fruit I bought.
This year I already have 14 flower buds on my 4 year old plant and 6 flowers have opened in the last couple of days.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/lowes_4537_zps66df118c.jpg)
La Verne "Red" is Not self-fertile.
IMO, the plant and fruit resemble the named Dragon Fruit variety "Armando".
At the last Pitahaya Festival, there was talk that the Voodoo Child is close to S-8 "Sugar Dragon", but not the exact same plant.
Hi everyone! What a huge list! From all of them what's the best flavour ones? Thank's! ;D
Yes it's true, but some times there are varieties with more fame than others... ;)Hi everyone! What a huge list! From all of them what's the best flavour ones? Thank's! ;D
The ones YOU think taste the best.
I have tasted dozens of Dragon Fruit and what taste good to me might not be your favorites.
Most people like Paul Thomson's 8-S AKA "Sugar Dragon".
I'm hoping to help amass a quazi-official Dragon Fruit Cultivar Master List. Below is what I've gathered so far. I hope to see modifications showing which cultivars are the same thing, etc. Probably deserves a followup list of yet improperly ID'ed types as discussed just above. I've added a couple Selenicereus types; could probably use (SpeciesxParentages) data also.
Is dragon fruit quality consistent between California and Florida? Meaning, a top tasting variety in FL will perform just as well in CA? Or is weather a factor for some varieties?
Is the list from Mattslandscape website? If not, you can add those. I think you listed most if not all the ones from Matt's site. Some dragonfruit "cultivars" are more like variations. They're not distinct enough to tell apart from another cultivar. It's why I kind of stopped going after more cultivars after 20 or so.I'm hoping to help amass a quazi-official Dragon Fruit Cultivar Master List. Below is what I've gathered so far. I hope to see modifications showing which cultivars are the same thing, etc. Probably deserves a followup list of yet improperly ID'ed types as discussed just above. I've added a couple Selenicereus types; could probably use (SpeciesxParentages) data also.
I did not see "Lisa" and "El Grullo", two varieties grown at the UCCE research field in Irvine, CA.
Hi everyone! How much time a cutting nead to fruit?
I got my first bunch (7 total) of cuttings in Aug 2011, the all looked pretty much like this in February 2012.
A month later in August 2013, Dark Star looked like this.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/DS_08-23-13_zpsedf2415c.jpg)
I got fruit from all 7 this year. So from cuttings in Aug 2011 to fruit harvesting 2 years later in Aug 2013.
And not all had as much growth as the Dark Star, here is my Vietnamese Jaina with flowers from Sept this year.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/VJ_09-13-13_zps322714c1.jpg)
DM
OK, great, now I realized where I went wrong. I should have picked a squared width pole for my dragonfruit and not a circular width pole. So, back to square one, I may have to figure out a new 'crown' configuration for the top of my round-width 'David Bowie' Dragon Fruit pole. And, I've got no time to waste, the 'Dragon' has climbed the pole and surpassed it by two feet already.
Hi everyone! How much time a cutting nead to fruit?
I got my first bunch (7 total) of cuttings in Aug 2011, the all looked pretty much like this in February 2012.
A month later in August 2013, Dark Star looked like this.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/DS_08-23-13_zpsedf2415c.jpg)
I got fruit from all 7 this year. So from cuttings in Aug 2011 to fruit harvesting 2 years later in Aug 2013.
And not all had as much growth as the Dark Star, here is my Vietnamese Jaina with flowers from Sept this year.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/VJ_09-13-13_zps322714c1.jpg)
DM
OK, great, now I realized where I went wrong. I should have picked a squared width pole for my dragonfruit and not a circular width pole. So, back to square one, I may have to figure out a new 'crown' configuration for the top of my round-width 'David Bowie' Dragon Fruit pole. And, I've got no time to waste, the 'Dragon' has climbed the pole and surpassed it by two feet already.
Please Help!
What is the length of each piece of wood of the 'wood-crown' at the top of the wooden post?
I have already bought all the material, wood and parts to finally build my 'wood-crown' at the top of my round-peg wood post. But, before I cut the pieces of wood in the appropriate lengths, I need to know what is the appropriate length of each piece of wood. After researching all 25 pages of this Thread, I can't believe that I've never asked about the length of each of the 2" X 4" (inches) pieces of wood. All suggestions & help is greatly appreciated.
I'm hoping to help amass a quazi-official Dragon Fruit Cultivar Master List. Below is what I've gathered so far. I hope to see modifications showing which cultivars are the same thing, etc. Probably deserves a followup list of yet improperly ID'ed types as discussed just above. I've added a couple Selenicereus types; could probably use (SpeciesxParentages) data also.
Alice
American Beauty
Arizona Purple
Armando
Asunta
Asian Giant
Bien Hoa (red)
Bien Hoa (white)
Bruni
Capistrano Valley
Cebra Dragon
Columbian Giant
Condor
Connie Mayer
Cosmic Charlie
Costa Rican Sunset
Country Roads
Dark Star
David Bowie
Delight
Desert King
DKU (series)
Edgar
Florida Red Sweet
Frankies Red
G 1 (Guatemala)
G 2 (Guatemala)
Giant
Giant Vietnamese
Golden (Israel)
Golden Dragon
Guyute
Halley's Comet
Harpua
Hylocereus Bronxensis
Jala
Kathie Van Arum
L.A. Woman
Lake Atitlan
Makisupa
Mexicana
Natural Mystic
Neitzel
Neon
Nicaraguan Red
Oblong
Orejona
Paul Thomsons 5 S
Paul Thomsons Number 7
Pepino Dulce
Phoenix Red
Physical Graffiti
Pineapple Cactus (Selenicereus setaceus)
Pink Panther
Purple Haze
Rixford
Rosa
San Ignacio
Seoul Kitchen
Simons Purple
Sin Espinas
Sugar Dragon
Thai Dragon
Thompson
Valdivia Rojas
Venus
Vietnamese Jaina (red)
Vietnamese Jaina (white)
Vietnamese Red
Vietnamese White
Voodoo Child
White Sapphire
Yellow (Hylocereus megalanthus)
Zamorano
Very nice comprehensive list of DF cultivars. What's the history behind the G2? I got some cuttings from the OC scion exchange but I cannot find any information on it. What's the flesh color, brix level, and frost tolerance?
Thank you, Starling1, for that, I appreciate it. I'm 'gonna' go with a length of 3 feet for each of the six pieces, to build the square 'wooden-crown' at the top of the round peg wood post. Then, come hell or high water, I'm 'gonna' take a picture of the finished job and post it.
Just started growing my first Dragon Fruit a few months ago.
What are the buds growing out of the top of the plant?
Is it just branching or are those the start of flowers?
(http://s11.postimg.cc/mettkiuof/IMG_2707.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/mettkiuof/)
(http://s27.postimg.cc/gyfxjongv/IMG_2708.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/gyfxjongv/)
That's new growth Jeff.
If you fertilise them with charlie carp/liquid fish fertiliser mixed strong you can really hurry them along.
That G2 might have been from me :). I originally got it from Jim Rockoff in SD. It's a wild selection. Medium large size, magenta color, very good sweet flavor and thin skin. Vines are more narrow than other varieties, with 1 spine over each bud, like other "Guatemalan types". It's been used for DF breeding but I don't think the resulting varieties like the ones by Paul Thomson are any better than G2.Very nice comprehensive list of DF cultivars. What's the history behind the G2? I got some cuttings from the OC scion exchange but I cannot find any information on it. What's the flesh color, brix level, and frost tolerance?
Good luck. I got a potted cutting from Irvine Pitahaya Festival labeled "D-47". Don't know anything about it except it came from the UCCE Irvine Pitahaya Research Center.
Thank you, Starling1, for that, I appreciate it. I'm 'gonna' go with a length of 3 feet for each of the six pieces, to build the square 'wooden-crown' at the top of the round peg wood post. Then, come hell or high water, I'm 'gonna' take a picture of the finished job and post it.
That G2 might have been from me :). I originally got it from Jim Rockoff in SD. It's a wild selection. Medium large size, magenta color, very good sweet flavor and thin skin. Vines are more narrow than other varieties, with 1 spine over each bud, like other "Guatemalan types". It's been used for DF breeding but I don't think the resulting varieties like the ones by Paul Thomson are any better than G2.Very nice comprehensive list of DF cultivars. What's the history behind the G2? I got some cuttings from the OC scion exchange but I cannot find any information on it. What's the flesh color, brix level, and frost tolerance?
Good luck. I got a potted cutting from Irvine Pitahaya Festival labeled "D-47". Don't know anything about it except it came from the UCCE Irvine Pitahaya Research Center.
I think there were G1 G2 G3 but I haven't heard much about the other ones.
Blue Dragon Fruit??
This page mention w/ tiny pic a "NEW Blue":
http://botanicalgrowersnetwork.net/znetsol/1-ProductPages/Dragon/default.p.htm (http://botanicalgrowersnetwork.net/znetsol/1-ProductPages/Dragon/default.p.htm)
Puzzled I google'd and found a Vietnamese page mentioning "Blue" but I dont see what they mean:
http://vietnam.vnanet.vn/vnp/en-us/13/36452/economy/blue-dragon-fruits-with-red-flesh-in-hanoi.html (http://vietnam.vnanet.vn/vnp/en-us/13/36452/economy/blue-dragon-fruits-with-red-flesh-in-hanoi.html)
Thank you, Starling1, for that, I appreciate it. I'm 'gonna' go with a length of 3 feet for each of the six pieces, to build the square 'wooden-crown' at the top of the round peg wood post. Then, come hell or high water, I'm 'gonna' take a picture of the finished job and post it.
Mine are actually a 30" x 27" rectangle rather than a square. They are 30" across the front because it left 42" between the rectangle frame of the next trellis, and 27" front to back so I could have 4 feet from the rectangle and the fence behind the row, so I could walk behind them easy. Also those dimensions probably let me get the most out of all my 8' long 2x4's with the minimal waste.
Assuming you are using 8 foot lengths, cutting for a 3 foot square frame, only lets you get two 3 foot piece and leaves you a piece right about 2 foot long from each 8 foot length.
DM
DM, thanks for the info. Your 'wood crown' is about 6" less on each side than what I had it mind. But, your explanation above is brilliant, thank you so much. I now understand completly. To build the 'wood crown' I need a total of 6 pieces of wood, all of equal lengths. And, the only way to get those 6 wood pieces out of two 8' long 2"X4" long, is if they are each 30" long.
It looks like my 6 pieces of wood to make the 'wood crown' will have the same lengths as yours, 30". And, when my wood crown is finished, I'm sure it will look similar to yours.
I can't wait to have this 'DF Wood Crown' built, installed and posting a picture of it.This is the info. that I was looking for, thank you so much, I really appreciate it.
DM, thanks for the info. Your 'wood crown' is about 6" less on each side than what I had it mind. But, your explanation above is brilliant, thank you so much. I now understand completly. To build the 'wood crown' I need a total of 6 pieces of wood, all of equal lengths. And, the only way to get those 6 wood pieces out of two 8' long 2"X4" long, is if they are each 30" long.
It looks like my 6 pieces of wood to make the 'wood crown' will have the same lengths as yours, 30". And, when my wood crown is finished, I'm sure it will look similar to yours.
I can't wait to have this 'DF Wood Crown' built, installed and posting a picture of it.This is the info. that I was looking for, thank you so much, I really appreciate it.
If you cut all six pieces equal at 30", you will end up with a rectangle that is 30" x 33". If you want a square, for the 4 pieces that connect the front beam to the back beam, you have to reduce the length by the thickness of two 2x4's (thickness of one 2x4 is 1.50", so reduce by 3.00"). So, to get a 30" square, you would cut two pieces at 30" long and four pieces at 27" long.
Good luck.
DM
I hope everything turns out all right. All the material has been purchased and the construction/set-up will take place and be completed tomorrow.
Thank you Starling1, I agree that squares are stronger shapes than rectangles. Nonetheless, I'm 'gonna' go with DangerMouse01's approach, I'm gonna keep it simple and go with the rectangle shape because it's just simpler/easier to build.
The crown will consist of 6 pieces of the same length. I've decided to go with a 3' length per piece after all. The 'wood-crown' will be built as follows: two of the wood pieces will be set opposed one another. Between them, will be two pieces set perpendicularly at the ends, and all four corners will be held together by 2 screws per corner. This completes the rectangle part of the 'wood-crown.'
Finally, the last two pieces of wood that will fall into 2 indentations at the top of the round peg pole, will also, of course, be screwed to and thus hold the wood-rectangle in place. And, voila, there you have it.
I hope everything turns out all right. All the material has been purchased and the construction/set-up will take place and be completed tomorrow.
My main worry now is to make sure that the crown is balanced. That is, that it does not tilt to one side or another.
Thank you guys for all the support and encouragement. Hopefully I'll report back tomorrow with the good news of a good installation outcome.
ricshaw, I wasn't able to complete the job today but everything's on track. I definitely plan to post picture(s) when it's all said and done. BTW, if you could E-Mail me on how to post a photo, I'll do it as soon as I get the instructions; not to speak of how appreciative I'll be for your assistance.
Starling1, I already have a pressure treated 'round peg' wooden post with a 'David Bowie' variety Dragon Fruit that has already reached and past the top of the 8' tall pole. The fruit of this variety is said to be medium-ish in size, but very productive and sweet, although I haven't tasted it because it hasn't yet fruited. I'm thinking of wrapping the pole in burlap, I hope this may speed up the time it'll take to fruit. Also, I can't help but wonder if the DF will be happier climbing a wood pole or a concrete pole.
The burlap will not help to speed up fruiting time (the aerial roots of dragon fruit actually adsorb almost nothing in way of nutrients from what they are growing against, they are not true epihpytes ) but the burlap will definitely be better for grip. I really recommend a fish based liquid fertilizer if you can get any, one with seaweed is perfect. I use powerfeed.
That's what it looks like in the first page, but I dont see it in the second.
Here it is:
Hylocereus Bronxensis Blue
http://w3flora.com/RealFloraDragonFruit.aspx?submenuheader=7&page=2 (http://w3flora.com/RealFloraDragonFruit.aspx?submenuheader=7&page=2)
"Rare and endangered this three sided segmented climbing cactus is like no other. New growth is lime green soon turning to smoky blue. Flowers have never been seen yet."
Species HYLOCEREUS BRONXENSIS- Has an XL white/yellow night blooming flower, the growth is 3-sided and closely resembles Hylocereus Ocamponis in that older growth is greyish-green in color, new growth dark green, but has shorter stem segments, sometimes pendant in growth and more narrow overall. Britton and Rose; originally collected by G. E. Barre in 1902, this variety is rare and endangered in its native habitat. The location collected is offically listed as unknown to protect the few specimens remaining in there native habitat. A rare species,not generally used for fruit production but can be crossed with other varieties. THIS VARIETY WAS GARDEN CULTIVATED FROM AN OLD COLLECTION AND WAS NOT REMOVED FROM ITS NATIVE HABITAT.
http://www.mattslandscape.com/detail/?plant_name=Hylocereus%20Bronxensis#full_desc (http://www.mattslandscape.com/detail/?plant_name=Hylocereus%20Bronxensis#full_desc)
Original Description: The Cactaceae 2 p.185 - Britton & Rose (1920)
Joints strongly 3-angled, dull grayish green, 3 to 4 cm broad; ribs strongly undulate, the margins horny and brown; areoles 2 to 3 cm apart; spines about 10, acicular, brown in age, about 6 mm long; flowers 25 cm long; outer perianth-segments broad, ovate, obtuse or rounded; inner perianth-segments oblong, rounded at apex, more or less apiculate, but not long-acuminate; scales on the ovary broad; stigma-lobes (perhaps) bifid
Described from specimens which flowered in the New York Botanical Garden (no. 9722) June 28, 1912. The plant was obtained from G. E. Barre in 1902, but its origin is otherwise unknown. It is related to Hylocereus ocamponis but its flowers are quite different from those of that species.
http://cactiguide.com/cactus/?genus=Hylocereus&species=bronxensis (http://cactiguide.com/cactus/?genus=Hylocereus&species=bronxensis)
Aerial roots... what are they good for?
http://youtu.be/5ziUKAXr8jE (http://youtu.be/5ziUKAXr8jE)
Aerial roots... what are they good for?
The answer is very little.
I trim mine off whenever I see them without incident. While they do absorb a low amount of nutrients, there is no advantage whatsoever to having them when you're growing a dragonfruit plant against a post that is treated wood, concrete or plastic. In fact unless you know what's in the bark of a tree they're growing against, you run the risk of sickening them as there there might something in this they don't like. They will send aerial roots back down into the soil if you cut them off above ground. Your mix and drainage in the ground is infinitely more important than nourishing aerial roots will ever be.
What does everyone use to fertilize to fasten growth or flowering? Anyone had experience with fish emulsion?
Aerial roots... what are they good for?
The answer is very little.
I trim mine off whenever I see them without incident. While they do absorb a low amount of nutrients, there is no advantage whatsoever to having them when you're growing a dragonfruit plant against a post that is treated wood, concrete or plastic. In fact unless you know what's in the bark of a tree they're growing against, you run the risk of sickening them as there there might something in this they don't like. They will send aerial roots back down into the soil if you cut them off above ground. Your mix and drainage in the ground is infinitely more important than nourishing aerial roots will ever be.
So you don't think there is any advantage to aerial roots going down into the ground?
So what I read in this post I must take my seedlings and make compost with them......and to get cuttings in south africa next to impossible.....Throwing seeds away is maybe for foreigners who have access to named cultivators but for us it's the only option don't give up plant more seeds and select the best ones:) we are pioneers here for most lesser known fruit it's exciting!!!
So what I read in this post I must take my seedlings and make compost with them......and to get cuttings in south africa next to impossible.....Throwing seeds away is maybe for foreigners who have access to named cultivators but for us it's the only option don't give up plant more seeds and select the best ones:) we are pioneers here for most lesser known fruit it's exciting!!!
Also if you get permit from department(not easy) at least DF has a better chance of surviving transit time than other cuttings or scions would.
Iv got alot of young seedling DF different kinds if any taste decent I can easily ship cutting to you.
If we just give up we get nothing but perservere and maybe something good:)
Too little sunlight on your seedlings Richard.
Although I had good luck with sprouting seeds from Dragon Fruit...
I have had BAD luck with getting DF seedlings past the juvenile stage.
I took the following pictures today.
The is an example of a seedling going on 4 YEARS!!
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/seedling_1265_zps58463459.jpg)
At this rate... I will never see fruit!
This is a picture of some cuttings going on their second year.
The plant in the foreground I got in March this year.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/cuttings_1266_zpsee92ccf2.jpg)
I usually expect to get fruit from plants grown from cuttings in 3 years. Yes, there are exceptions. I have got fruit on a cutting the first year.
I had some small cuttings that I left out to callus over and never got around to potting them.
Then http://www.youtube.com/user/ProjectPitaya (http://www.youtube.com/user/ProjectPitaya) told me I could root them with the end setting in a little water.
In less than a week I had roots.
The is an example of a seedling going on 4 YEARS!!
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/seedling_1265_zps58463459.jpg)
Ric, your seedling looks awesome!
It's your soil. You've planted it in cactus mix, which is totally wrong for the task of growing dragon fruit.
Dragon fruit are an understory rainforest cactus. They nothing like opuntia or other desert cacti, and require free draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Mix compost, very coarse potting mix, and sand and repot it into this mixture. Add some sheep or cow manure also.
It's your soil. You've planted it in cactus mix, which is totally wrong for the task of growing dragon fruit.
Dragon fruit are an understory rainforest cactus. They nothing like opuntia or other desert cacti, and require free draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Mix compost, very coarse potting mix, and sand and repot it into this mixture. Add some sheep or cow manure also.
I really don't think it is just the soil. Dragons can grow in majority types of soil and this soil although is not the best still can support a dragon to grow well. Anyways, I would be transferring it to the farm soon where it would get all the necessary nutrients.
As of now would you guys advice to cut the part below the rot or do I just leave it to heal by itself?
If it doesn't continue to rot, then I would leave it. Soil aeration makes a big difference to root growth. Just make sure the soil particles are coarse enough for the roots to get air.
It's your soil. You've planted it in cactus mix, which is totally wrong for the task of growing dragon fruit.
Dragon fruit are an understory rainforest cactus. They nothing like opuntia or other desert cacti, and require free draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Mix compost, very coarse potting mix, and sand and repot it into this mixture. Add some sheep or cow manure also.
I really don't think it is just the soil. Dragons can grow in majority types of soil and this soil although is not the best still can support a dragon to grow well. Anyways, I would be transferring it to the farm soon where it would get all the necessary nutrients.
As of now would you guys advice to cut the part below the rot or do I just leave it to heal by itself?
If it doesn't continue to rot, then I would leave it. Soil aeration makes a big difference to root growth. Just make sure the soil particles are coarse enough for the roots to get air.
I'm wondering why you bought such a small plant. How long is the cutting under the soil? It looks like a moon cactus where the top died off. https://www.google.com/search?q=moon+cactus. (https://www.google.com/search?q=moon+cactus.) The bottom is actually a white-fleshed dragonfruit if you care to grow it.
Anyway, you need only bury the bottom inch of it. Some people bury deeper for stability but that's not really necessary.
My 'David Bowie' DF has two big & beautiful flowers for the first time ever, I sure hope that fruit(s) follow(s).
My 'David Bowie' DF has two big & beautiful flowers for the first time ever, I sure hope that fruit(s) follow(s).
My 'David Bowie' DF is behaving in the same way. The two (first time ever) flowers look dead and are about to fall off. Also, it looks like there may be a fruit coming along behind one of the expired flowers.
The last 2 years we have had a tremendous increase in earwigs. They are every where but today I noticed that they were especially heavy on ready to bloom flowers.
In the morning I have always found them along with bees in the open flowers. I assume, since they moving very fast all over the inner flower, that they also aid in pollination. If so at least some good from their presents.
(http://s12.postimg.cc/eytbb3bm1/001_2.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/eytbb3bm1/)
A semi-local guy brought me several lengths of what he said is "yellow" dragon fruit recently. I expected it'd look different but wasnt sure. Later I went online and all the 'yellow' (species) I could find looked more like a red gene DF, where this one the cactus looks like pure white gene. Interesting though is that one has formed a bud and after a couple days its already yellow:
(http://s28.postimg.cc/b1hhe7tih/IMG_0940.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/b1hhe7tih/)
(http://s28.postimg.cc/3k89z03zd/IMG_0941.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/3k89z03zd/)
It seems sturdy enough not like its yellowing to fall off I mean.
If this doesnt make a fruit its going to drive me nuts waiting forever to figure out what it even is, as I wont bother trying to sell/trade with it without having a real good idea.
The true yellow fruit, as I know it , is Selenicereus megalanthus . Close to Hylocereus species but it & its hybrids have spines on the fruit. From my experience the yellow buds picture above are aborting .
Please keep us up dated; could be new variety?
Here's a picture of a Frankie's Red flower when it's starting to open.Hi Simon. Looking forward to seeing the results of your flowering Frankies Red. I received a cutting from you last year and it is now 7 feet tall. It has grown really well through our winter and I am hoping it will flower this year or early next year. Keep us posted. Thanks again.
Simon
(http://s22.postimg.cc/yyb7qdgyl/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/yyb7qdgyl/)
(http://s22.postimg.cc/42u0z89i5/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/42u0z89i5/)
(http://s22.postimg.cc/cjtja5e71/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/cjtja5e71/)
Hi. Maybe a bit off the current topic but I'm chasing a bit of information on a couple of Dragonfruit varieties that I have acquired. One is labeled 3S and the other is labeled G2. I think I have read somewhere that 3S is "Delight" but don't quote me on that. Thanks in advance for any info.
I think 3S or S3 was named by Paul Thomson. Delight was name by Pine Island Nursery :)Hi. Maybe a bit off the current topic but I'm chasing a bit of information on a couple of Dragonfruit varieties that I have acquired. One is labeled 3S and the other is labeled G2. I think I have read somewhere that 3S is "Delight" but don't quote me on that. Thanks in advance for any info.
Paul Thomson named his "3-S" hybrid "Delight".
fyliu says; "G2 (part of Paul Thomson's original wild selections for crossing)" Reply #66
I think 3S or S3 was named by Paul Thomson. Delight was name by Pine Island Nursery :)Hi. Maybe a bit off the current topic but I'm chasing a bit of information on a couple of Dragonfruit varieties that I have acquired. One is labeled 3S and the other is labeled G2. I think I have read somewhere that 3S is "Delight" but don't quote me on that. Thanks in advance for any info.
Paul Thomson named his "3-S" hybrid "Delight".
fyliu says; "G2 (part of Paul Thomson's original wild selections for crossing)" Reply #66
The owner of PIN told me that he renamed all dragon fruit varieties he got from California.I think 3S or S3 was named by Paul Thomson. Delight was name by Pine Island Nursery :)Hi. Maybe a bit off the current topic but I'm chasing a bit of information on a couple of Dragonfruit varieties that I have acquired. One is labeled 3S and the other is labeled G2. I think I have read somewhere that 3S is "Delight" but don't quote me on that. Thanks in advance for any info.
Paul Thomson named his "3-S" hybrid "Delight".
fyliu says; "G2 (part of Paul Thomson's original wild selections for crossing)" Reply #66
In Paul Thomson's book, he refers to 3-S as "Delight". If Pine Island had named it, it would have been more of a psychedelic rock name. ;D
The owner of PIN told me that he renamed all dragon fruit varieties he got from California.I think 3S or S3 was named by Paul Thomson. Delight was name by Pine Island Nursery :)Hi. Maybe a bit off the current topic but I'm chasing a bit of information on a couple of Dragonfruit varieties that I have acquired. One is labeled 3S and the other is labeled G2. I think I have read somewhere that 3S is "Delight" but don't quote me on that. Thanks in advance for any info.
Paul Thomson named his "3-S" hybrid "Delight".
fyliu says; "G2 (part of Paul Thomson's original wild selections for crossing)" Reply #66
In Paul Thomson's book, he refers to 3-S as "Delight". If Pine Island had named it, it would have been more of a psychedelic rock name. ;D
You are right. Maybe he named most of them but not all. Thanks.The owner of PIN told me that he renamed all dragon fruit varieties he got from California.I think 3S or S3 was named by Paul Thomson. Delight was name by Pine Island Nursery :)Hi. Maybe a bit off the current topic but I'm chasing a bit of information on a couple of Dragonfruit varieties that I have acquired. One is labeled 3S and the other is labeled G2. I think I have read somewhere that 3S is "Delight" but don't quote me on that. Thanks in advance for any info.
Paul Thomson named his "3-S" hybrid "Delight".
fyliu says; "G2 (part of Paul Thomson's original wild selections for crossing)" Reply #66
In Paul Thomson's book, he refers to 3-S as "Delight". If Pine Island had named it, it would have been more of a psychedelic rock name. ;D
I think he is wrong and trust Paul Thomson's book and TFF member Sven.
Have you seen October 10, 2013, Reply #225? http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=228.225 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=228.225)
Does the amount of thorns tell you anything about cultivar......bought some cuttings..some have single thorns and other have three thorns.....hope it is Dragon fruit.
Here's a picture of a Frankie's Red flower when it's starting to open.Hi Simon. Looking forward to seeing the results of your flowering Frankies Red. I received a cutting from you last year and it is now 7 feet tall. It has grown really well through our winter and I am hoping it will flower this year or early next year. Keep us posted. Thanks again.
Simon
(http://s22.postimg.cc/yyb7qdgyl/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/yyb7qdgyl/)
(http://s22.postimg.cc/42u0z89i5/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/42u0z89i5/)
(http://s22.postimg.cc/cjtja5e71/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/cjtja5e71/)
Hi Simon, the growth of the Frankies Red has been impressive and I am looking forward to hopefully getting a few flowers in the coming summer. Like you, I am hoping to cross some of my other varieties with the Frankies in the hope of getting something special. I will hopefully have over 40 different varieties flower this year and I am hoping to cross as many as I can, and after a few emails with a grower in Israel, a cross with the yellow megalanthus and the Frankies Red would be brilliant. Hopefully good things to come. Thanks again and I look forward to seeing pics of your Frankies fruit.Here's a picture of a Frankie's Red flower when it's starting to open.Hi Simon. Looking forward to seeing the results of your flowering Frankies Red. I received a cutting from you last year and it is now 7 feet tall. It has grown really well through our winter and I am hoping it will flower this year or early next year. Keep us posted. Thanks again.
Simon
(http://s22.postimg.cc/yyb7qdgyl/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/yyb7qdgyl/)
(http://s22.postimg.cc/42u0z89i5/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/42u0z89i5/)
(http://s22.postimg.cc/cjtja5e71/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/cjtja5e71/)
You're welcome Ranman, I'm glad the cutting is doing well for you. I have no other dragonfruit varieties with open flowers right now so Frankie's Red will have to be self pollinating if I am to get fruit. If none of these flowers set fruit, I will have to assume that they require cross pollination. I've never tasted a Red x Yellow dragonfruit so I am very eager to try this Frankie's Red. I may even try to cross this Frankies Red with a Halleys Comet in the hopes of getting larger fruit but removing the male anthers, bagging individual flowers and growing out countless seedlings seems like a lot of work:(
Simon
In Paul Thomson's book, he refers to 3-S as "Delight". If Pine Island had named it, it would have been more of a psychedelic rock name. ;D
Couple days ago I noticed my small potted Zamorano has two flowers forming. I was not expecting any flowers on this plant, its in a 6-7" container !! and each limb only extends out about 2ft. or so. it has been long over due for a transplant into a permanent location, I have been dragging my feet because Zamorano has some nasty thorns on it, lot longer and closer spaced compared to other varieties I have and have seen.
I looked online and Zamorano is listed as self pollinating, but that bigger fruit can be obtained by pollinating.
I have always assumed I can just pollinate from the same flower, but my question is, can I still get bigger fruit if I hand pollinate using the same flower? also any experience with the taste of this fruit would be appreciated.
Does pollen store in the fridge? I have another pitaya that is going to flower, but they will probably miss each other by a few days.a few days is not a problem. Put a lid on the container to keep it moist.
I got my 'David Bowie' Dragon Fruit variety from PIN. I wonder what is the corresponding name for it in California.
I got my 'David Bowie' Dragon Fruit variety from PIN. I wonder what is the corresponding name for it in California.
I have never heard that David Bowie was a renamed California variety.
David Bowie may be a Pine Island Nursery original.
I got my 'David Bowie' Dragon Fruit variety from PIN. I wonder what is the corresponding name for it in California.
I have never heard that David Bowie was a renamed California variety.
David Bowie may be a Pine Island Nursery original.
So far, yours is the only 'info' that I have to go by, and it sounds good to me. An original, huh? Very nice, 'thanx.'
I got my 'David Bowie' Dragon Fruit variety from PIN. I wonder what is the corresponding name for it in California.
I have never heard that David Bowie was a renamed California variety.
David Bowie may be a Pine Island Nursery original.
So far, yours is the only 'info' that I have to go by, and it sounds good to me. An original, huh? Very nice, 'thanx.'
If you trust dragonfruitplants.com... ??? it says California is the origin.
I got my 'David Bowie' Dragon Fruit variety from PIN. I wonder what is the corresponding name for it in California.
I have never heard that David Bowie was a renamed California variety.
David Bowie may be a Pine Island Nursery original.
So far, yours is the only 'info' that I have to go by, and it sounds good to me. An original, huh? Very nice, 'thanx.'
If you trust dragonfruitplants.com... ??? it says California is the origin.
Thank you for the investigative 'David Bowie' DF geneology. So, my 'David Bowie' DF is from California, was named there, and the name survived the trip from California to PIN in Florida with no name change! As an owner of a 'David Bowie' DF, I did not know this, I find this 'info' impressive and I appreciate your sharing it.
There was some work published that said if the pollen is dried first it can keep in the refrigerator for a fairly long time, even longer if it is frozen. I'll look up the reference at work tomorrow.
Richard
Some of my DF varieties are ripening up now but many of them are splitting this year so I have to harvest them early before they fully color and sweeten up. The largest fruit so far is my Halley's Comet and it weighs 1 lbs 11oz.
(http://s15.postimg.cc/rvsh3hug7/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/rvsh3hug7/)
There was some work published that said if the pollen is dried first it can keep in the refrigerator for a fairly long time, even longer if it is frozen. I'll look up the reference at work tomorrow.
Richard
That would be some quite valuable datas....
The Halley's Comet is two years old from a 4 foot rooted cutting. They grow really fast with lots of water and fertilizer.Some of my DF varieties are ripening up now but many of them are splitting this year so I have to harvest them early before they fully color and sweeten up. The largest fruit so far is my Halley's Comet and it weighs 1 lbs 11oz.
(http://s15.postimg.cc/rvsh3hug7/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/rvsh3hug7/)
How old is your Halley's Comet plant?
I've used a food sealer and put dessicant beads in with the pollen, and left then in there.
Rtreid : How are you producing a vacuum? How will you know what the pressure is?
thanks
hey guys,
What would be the ideal height of a trellis?
Our dragon fruits are loaded with flowers this year. I hand pollinated a few dozens of flowers last night and another few dozen tonight. It looks like there will be another wave tomorrow night. These are the unknown white variety but the fruit is sweet & flavorful and it could reach to a softball size if they're hand pollinated.
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3915/14853750903_0943fd01d3_b.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3914/14647184010_e6a3362090_b.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2913/14833546012_83b7bd335d_b.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3881/14833912035_68b17598a1_b.jpg)
Our dragon fruits are loaded with flowers this year. I hand pollinated a few dozens of flowers last night and another few dozen tonight. It looks like there will be another wave tomorrow night. These are the unknown white variety but the fruit is sweet & flavorful and it could reach to a softball size if they're hand pollinated.
Our dragon fruits are loaded with flowers this year. I hand pollinated a few dozens of flowers last night and another few dozen tonight. It looks like there will be another wave tomorrow night. These are the unknown white variety but the fruit is sweet & flavorful and it could reach to a softball size if they're hand pollinated.
By any chance are you going to the 2014 Pitahaya Festival? ::)
Today I was surprised when a dear Mexican friend told me that she has a very delicious variety of Pitaya (Dragon Fruit).I thought dragon fruit is known as pitahaya in Mexico and pitaya is the columnar cactus. Those are good too except they flower near the top.
Today I was surprised when a dear Mexican friend told me that she has a very delicious variety of Pitaya (Dragon Fruit).I thought dragon fruit is known as pitahaya in Mexico and pitaya is the columnar cactus. Those are good too except they flower near the top.
I thought dragon fruit is known as pitahaya in Mexico and pitaya is the columnar cactus. Those are good too except they flower near the top.
There is an older, more mature cacti industry in Mexico, whereas in the USA, it's only now that it's starting to get some real traction. As a result, I've always wandered whether there already is an unknown, surprisingly sweet variety of Pitaya or Prickly-Pear that is not generally known about. Anyways, things are starting to get interesting, with both growing industries in Mexico and the USA, the conditions are likely to produce a surprisingly sweet variety(ies).
Here is an update of my Frankie's Red fruit. They seem to be growing larger than what I expected. Frankie's Red appears like it will fill the void between the regular DF and the Yellow megalanthus. Anyone have pictures showing the final size or perhaps the inside of a Frankie's Red? Any additional information on Frankie's Red is greatly appreciated.
Here is an update of my Frankie's Red fruit. They seem to be growing larger than what I expected. Frankie's Red appears like it will fill the void between the regular DF and the Yellow megalanthus. Anyone have pictures showing the final size or perhaps the inside of a Frankie's Red? Any additional information on Frankie's Red is greatly appreciated.
I did not know that Frankie's Red fruit was so thorny!
Here is an update of my Frankie's Red fruit. They seem to be growing larger than what I expected. Frankie's Red appears like it will fill the void between the regular DF and the Yellow megalanthus. Anyone have pictures showing the final size or perhaps the inside of a Frankie's Red? Any additional information on Frankie's Red is greatly appreciated.
I did not know that Frankie's Red fruit was so thorny!
Is "Pitaya" Dragon Fruit or Prickly Pear?
In Southern California many CRFG call Dragon Fruit Pitahaya.
Wikipedia says; A pitaya or pitahaya is the fruit of several cactus species. "Pitaya" usually refers to fruit of the genus Stenocereus, while "Pitahaya" or "Dragonfruit" always refers to fruit of the genus Hylocereus.
Hey LEOOEL, did the Torrent prickly pear have hard or soft seeds? I've tasted some excellent and very sweet prickly pear fruit but they always had very hard seeds similar to guava.
Simon
I had 2 fruits on it last year but they disappeared :( They looked delicious though.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-h9moDAirTPw/UPNtLu48lMI/AAAAAAAAEik/5F4I6kgcoag/s640/P1060170.JPG)
Torrance PCH#1 is what I call the selection, it has small soft seeds which can be chewed on or swallowed. The seeds count is also on the lower side per fruit. The selection sets excellent large quality fruit in CA and FL. You can read more about it on the following post:
http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=3935.0 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=3935.0)
I had 2 fruits on it last year but they disappeared :( They looked delicious though.
Fang,
Most of had critters that know good fruit ;), critters don't usually touch prickly pears because of the glochids. However, this selection has a low amount of glochids which drop off over time (due to rain and wind, I was able to pick bare hand in FL with no glochids)
Torrance PCH#1 prickly pears hold ripe fruits on the plant for a good +3 months without decline in fruit quality in CA (I assume this is close to the same even in hot humid FL).
Btw, I have heard that Cereus crosses with Hylocereus and sets viable seeds. Also that some people are already growing some of these crosses out. If you heard any information on this, would love to hear about it. I would love to grow out tasty Dragon Fruits on a columnar cactus in the future (one can dream :) ).
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-h9moDAirTPw/UPNtLu48lMI/AAAAAAAAEik/5F4I6kgcoag/s640/P1060170.JPG)
Torrance PCH#1 is what I call the selection, it has small soft seeds which can be chewed on or swallowed. The seeds count is also on the lower side per fruit. The selection sets excellent large quality fruit in CA and FL. You can read more about it on the following post:
http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=3935.0 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=3935.0)
The next time I am in Torrance, CA I would like to look for Torrance PCH#1.
Is that Pacific Coast Highway or Calle Mayor in the picture above?
How to identify df varieties?You can mostly tell the flesh color. Pink outside is white flesh. Orange outside is pink flesh. Round and thick skinned is deep red flesh. Between the same flesh color it's very difficult. DF hybridize easily and many varieties areally not really that different in looks or taste.
Is there any way to distinguish one dragon from the other? The ones we get at grocery stores don't mention the variety on it, neither do the online groceries.
I know there are about 2 dozen varieties but is there any way to identify what variety I am buying?
How to identify df varieties?
Is there any way to distinguish one dragon from the other? The ones we get at grocery stores don't mention the variety on it, neither do the online groceries.
I know there are about 2 dozen varieties but is there any way to identify what variety I am buying?
fyliu, Are you going to the Pitahaya Festival Field Day tasting?No I'm not going. It's good to learn about the new varieties but most of the information seems to be the same every year.
fyliu, Are you going to the Pitahaya Festival Field Day tasting?No I'm not going. It's good to learn about the new varieties but most of the information seems to be the same every year.
It's a growers' event so I guess they repeat the information for new growers.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-h9moDAirTPw/UPNtLu48lMI/AAAAAAAAEik/5F4I6kgcoag/s640/P1060170.JPG)
Torrance PCH#1 is what I call the selection, it has small soft seeds which can be chewed on or swallowed. The seeds count is also on the lower side per fruit. The selection sets excellent large quality fruit in CA and FL. You can read more about it on the following post:
http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=3935.0 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=3935.0)
The next time I am in Torrance, CA I would like to look for Torrance PCH#1.
Is that Pacific Coast Highway or Calle Mayor in the picture above?
@fyliu, @ricshaw
Thanks. So no easy way to know what variety it is either by looks or taste? I guess the flesh color is all that matters, am I right?
Some day I plan to grow df commercially. Hence the research. :)
Dmk, most good varieties do not pollinate themselves. They also bloom at night which makes it difficult to pollinate commercially. That's why I always see poor-tasting DF in the markets. I heard they have white and red fleshed fruits sold in China. Maybe labor is cheap enough over there.
The yellow megalanthus will set fruit by itself and is sweet. And simon said there's a larger fruited variety sold in Hong Kong. Maybe you can try to find that and find out if it grows well in your climate.
Pollination is one of the biggest issues I have stumbled across in my research. Hand pollinating at night brings about an altogether new challenge. Walking acres of land hand pollinating each flower at night not only sounds scary but can prove lethal (snakes, scorpions).
I wonder how farms across the world tackle this? Or do they just don't plant hand pollinating variety commercially?
Dragon Fruit Noob here...
I tasted my first Southern Ca grown Dragon Fruit....holy cow!!!!! destroyed my original impression of the one I ate form the Asian Markets.....
Anyone care to mention some top 5 Dragon fruits that I can squeeze along the fence line....this is definitely a must have fruit!!!!!
Informative DF variety list.
Although on the smallish side, the winners, as far as sweet taste goes, is the 'Colombiana' and the 'Yellow Dragon.' Surprisingly, both are of the yellow variety. According to the chart, these varieties unfortunately do not tolerate well extreme temperatures of heat and cold. Nevertheless, in locations where these temperature extremes are uncommon, they may turn out to be must have varieties for those of us who love to grow this fruit.
These two varieties appear to be great candidates for further development/improvement; either by planting their seeds to arrive at better selections; or crossing them with other varieties like 'American Beauty,' 'Delight,' or 'El Grullo;' or by more scientifically inclined means like improving their characteristics by the noble technique of using bacteria to appropriately and safely change the DF variety's genetic makeup; or by selecting the best candidate from a group of potential candidates, after their genetic makeup has been randomly altered from being bombarded with 'photons' shot from a special type of 'gun.'
It's great to see things moving in the right direction in the DF industry. It appears that as a result of these DF variety comparisons of their characteristics, this will lead to new and improved varieties, bringing us closer to the day when a DF of high quality sweet taste will be available to the general public.
The latest Dragon Fruit Variety Evaluation Chart I picked up at today's University of California Cooperative Extension Pitahaya Dragon Fruit Festival:
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/2014Pitahaya-DFChart_zps7417b409.jpg)
Thank you so much for giving me the inside scoop on the different cultivars...I had no idea Dragon Fruit had such a great following.
Are any of the nurseries in Socal selling these top tier varieties?
Seems they only have cuttings available for all the top tier varieties.... Noob here lol...is this something that I must graft? or can this be planted in the ground?
Be sure to use a porous mix for soil. The roots are not evolved to dig into soil but rather to drape over branches in the top canopy of a rainforest. This may not be absolutely true but it's what I keep in mind when deciding what soil to use.
I tried regular garden soil and the plant just grows very slowly and roots are an inch long after 2 years.
I preferred valdivia roja when I first got into DF. I'm still waiting for my own plant to fruit.Fang, I have had my Valdivia Roja in the ground for about 7 years, I can only get fruit if I use pollen from a different variety, but it is one of the tastiest and prettiest varieties. It is from Mexico and Edgar Valdivia did not develop it if anyone was wondering.
The American beauty bunch is pretty sweet at 18 brix. 16-18 brix is the point where tart goes to sweet for DF.
The Halleys comet bunch is good too. But you would want to get a plain Vietnamese white self-fertile for pollen and just to have some fruit to cheer you up if you forget or are too busy to pollinate.
Are they Frankies Red x Condor seedlings as it says on the jar. Should be a great cross if that's right.
I preferred valdivia roja when I first got into DF. I'm still waiting for my own plant to fruit.
The American beauty bunch is pretty sweet at 18 brix. 16-18 brix is the point where tart goes to sweet for DF.
The Halleys comet bunch is good too. But you would want to get a plain Vietnamese white self-fertile for pollen and just to have some fruit to cheer you up if you forget or are too busy to pollinate.
Thanks for the information. I got the cutting at the last one I attended, maybe 3-4 years ago. It flowered this year but I didn't pollinate and it dropped.I preferred valdivia roja when I first got into DF. I'm still waiting for my own plant to fruit.Fang, I have had my Valdivia Roja in the ground for about 7 years, I can only get fruit if I use pollen from a different variety, but it is one of the tastiest and prettiest varieties. It is from Mexico and Edgar Valdivia did not develop it if anyone was wondering.
The American beauty bunch is pretty sweet at 18 brix. 16-18 brix is the point where tart goes to sweet for DF.
The Halleys comet bunch is good too. But you would want to get a plain Vietnamese white self-fertile for pollen and just to have some fruit to cheer you up if you forget or are too busy to pollinate.
Mark
Are they Frankies Red x Condor seedlings as it says on the jar. Should be a great cross if that's right.
Yes :)I preferred valdivia roja when I first got into DF. I'm still waiting for my own plant to fruit.
The American beauty bunch is pretty sweet at 18 brix. 16-18 brix is the point where tart goes to sweet for DF.
The Halleys comet bunch is good too. But you would want to get a plain Vietnamese white self-fertile for pollen and just to have some fruit to cheer you up if you forget or are too busy to pollinate.
You are right. I have both, but I am mainly growing Delight (Thomson 3-S) and Halley's Comet (closely related).
This year my goal was to get some Vietnamese white self-fertile. I got Vietnamese White, Vietnamese Giant, and Mexicana cuttings.
Thanks for the information. I got the cutting at the last one I attended, maybe 3-4 years ago. It flowered this year but I didn't pollinate and it dropped.
Ramiro doesn't pollinate but some animals (bats?) there do pollinate and he does get fruits.
Richard, I actually didn't get the white self-fertile either and went for the better tasting ones. Good thing the Arizona Purple seems to be self-fruiting when everything else is not. But I personally don't like the taste of it. It tastes a little metallic to me while other people really like it.
Thank you so much for giving me the inside scoop on the different cultivars...I had no idea Dragon Fruit had such a great following.
Are any of the nurseries in Socal selling these top tier varieties?
(http://www.mattslandscape.com/graphics/home_logo.gif)
MattsLandscape.com
Thank you so much for giving me the inside scoop on the different cultivars...I had no idea Dragon Fruit had such a great following.
Are any of the nurseries in Socal selling these top tier varieties?
(http://www.mattslandscape.com/graphics/home_logo.gif)
MattsLandscape.com
IM SO EXCITED!!!! Matts Landscape/Epic-Cacti Nursery is located right next door to me in Fallbrook... He has several top tier Dragon Fruit cutting that I'm looking at picking up this weekend.. These are my picks as of now based on color of flesh and flavor reviews.
Rosa
Sin Espina
Cebra
and a toss up between Mexican and Delight...both have the pretty pink n white flesh but Delight is much more higher on the Brix lvl.
IM SO EXCITED!!!! Matts Landscape/Epic-Cacti Nursery is located right next door to me in Fallbrook... He has several top tier Dragon Fruit cutting that I'm looking at picking up this weekend.. These are my picks as of now based on color of flesh and flavor reviews.
Rosa
Sin Espina
Cebra
and a toss up between Mexican and Delight...both have the pretty pink n white flesh but Delight is much more higher on the Brix lvl.
IM SO EXCITED!!!! Matts Landscape/Epic-Cacti Nursery is located right next door to me in Fallbrook... He has several top tier Dragon Fruit cutting that I'm looking at picking up this weekend.. These are my picks as of now based on color of flesh and flavor reviews.
Rosa
Sin Espina
Cebra
and a toss up between Mexican and Delight...both have the pretty pink n white flesh but Delight is much more higher on the Brix lvl.
UC DNA testing has shown that Lisa, Rosa and Cebra could be considered the same.
A yellow crossed with a red would be a Frankie's Red. Mine is fruiting for the first time this year. The fruit appears like it will be small like the Yellow Dragon. I will report back on how it tastes and also get a brix reading after I harvest the fruit.
It seems my Yellow Dragon is self fertile as it has set fruit before when my other varieties were not flowering but it may have been pollinated by other DF plants in the neighborhood.
Simon
The couple of times I've had them the texture was like watermelon peel, especially the sin espina. Sounds like you like a little sweet but not too much of it. Lisa, Rosa, Cebra have a good amount of acid too, if I remember correctly. Do all the deep red varieties have a lot of acid or are the fruits in Irvine picked too early?IM SO EXCITED!!!! Matts Landscape/Epic-Cacti Nursery is located right next door to me in Fallbrook... He has several top tier Dragon Fruit cutting that I'm looking at picking up this weekend.. These are my picks as of now based on color of flesh and flavor reviews.
Rosa
Sin Espina
Cebra
and a toss up between Mexican and Delight...both have the pretty pink n white flesh but Delight is much more higher on the Brix lvl.
UC DNA testing has shown that Lisa, Rosa and Cebra could be considered the same.
Oh crap..only getting Cebra then
With my picks Cebra, mexicana, delight, Sin Espana, and maybe condor cause here good things even though not on the top 10 tier list...will i have any issues with polinization?
The couple of times I've had them the texture was like watermelon peel, especially the sin espina. Sounds like you like a little sweet but not too much of it. Lisa, Rosa, Cebra have a good amount of acid too, if I remember correctly. Do all the deep red varieties have a lot of acid or are the fruits in Irvine picked too early?
Okay, I'll grow out my sin espina and see what it tastes like. I've been keeping it small in the shade every since I got it.
That's very true about sunlight and fruit. I wasn't looking for it but it was a small leftover piece from a plant sale or something and I only wanted it in my collection but not fruit, so I didn't want to let it get big. It's not only in enough shade to not fruit, it's in enough shade to not produce much cuttings. If anyone wants thin cuttings of it I can cut the parts that managed to escape the broken pint pot where the soil washed away some time ago.Okay, I'll grow out my sin espina and see what it tastes like. I've been keeping it small in the shade every since I got it.
One thing I learned at the last festival was growing Pitahaya in the shade is good for producing cuttings, you need to grow Pitahaya in the sun to get good fruit.
Sorry if it's been covered but I just plopped down $7 for a red from Vietnam. How do you prepare these fruit?Best served chilled, then cut in half and scoop or slice into wedges like oranges with skin on.
Sorry if it's been covered but I just plopped down $7 for a red from Vietnam. How do you prepare these fruit?
A yellow crossed with a red would be a Frankie's Red. Mine is fruiting for the first time this year. The fruit appears like it will be small like the Yellow Dragon. I will report back on how it tastes and also get a brix reading after I harvest the fruit.
It seems my Yellow Dragon is self fertile as it has set fruit before when my other varieties were not flowering but it may have been pollinated by other DF plants in the neighborhood.
Simon
Would it be possible to start a new dragon fruit thread?
Stopped by Matts Landscapes/ Epic Cacti Nursery today....really swell guy... picked up a nice 5g Cebra, 5g Condor, 5g Delight, and a 2 foot cutting taken off his mother Orejona plant....
Mexicana is still out of stock...waiting on it.
Can anyone tell me how Condor stacks against the elite tier Dragon Fruit? I heard good things mentioned here so I grabbed it.
Sorry if it's been covered but I just plopped down $7 for a red from Vietnam. How do you prepare these fruit?
Let us know what you think of the taste (plus pictures if possible).
Mark they're are in season right now in Socal...if you can find a seller who sales and ships the red flesh varieties....I think you will be blown away by the flavor!!!
Just planted my 3 of the dragon fruit along my vegetable wall..i thought these. Grow into a simple vine along a stake...but after seeing pictures of mature plants...seems 2 foot spacing is way too close...shoukd i dig them up now or wait?
(http://s15.postimg.cc/56ky8uypj/20140901_094522.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/56ky8uypj/)
(http://s15.postimg.cc/ocy5c1f7b/20140901_094542.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/ocy5c1f7b/)
Yeah, not going to give up. Just finished a bowl of chopped fruit with a lemon/honey dressing - pitaya, bananas and slices of my own tree ripened peaches that I'll put up against the best tropical fruit out there. 8)
On that same note...I'm a little confused? The 5 gal Dragon fruit I purchased looks like they have multiple plants in them or is this all growth at the bottom from one cutting?
Do I kill them all and let just one single vine grow to the top?
I also planted some cuttings of the HC that were loose or broken due to transport.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g208/scashaggy/20140928_154317.jpg)
I also planted some cuttings of the HC that were loose or broken due to transport.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g208/scashaggy/20140928_154317.jpg)
Could be my bad eyes, but the one in the center appears to be planted upside down. The one on the left is a tip so easy to tell which end should be up, the center one looks backwards to the one on the left.
DM
DM, you are correct! The cutting in the middle pot was planted upside down. I recognized it yesterday when I read this post with my cell phone. Today I was about to post a message to Scashaggy then saw your post.
Today I was surprised when a dear Mexican friend told me that she has a very delicious variety of Pitaya (Dragon Fruit). And, she is a very good 'Cook!' Immediatly, she had my attention, I mean, she's Mexican, a Cook, and I personally know her quite well. So, I'm hoping that her DF variety does taste as good as she says, which I have no reason to doubt. The way she described the taste was so good, that the next time I see her, I'm 'gonna' ask her to what other fruit is the taste quality similar to. She did ask me how many pieces I wanted, and not to be greedy, I said two. I can't wait to get the two pieces of her delicious variety, so that I can start the process of growing them, and ultimately compare the taste and overall quality to the only variety that I currently have ('David Bowie').
P.S. My 'David Bowie' earlier this year produced the first 3 flowers ever. Then, they all dropped and no fruit followed. After this happened, I fertilized the plant. And, right now, it has 2 beautiful new flowers. I'm hoping to finally get fruit afterwards.
P.S. My 'David Bowie' earlier this year produced the first 3 flowers ever. Then, they all dropped and no fruit followed. After this happened, I fertilized the plant. And, right now, it has 2 beautiful new flowers. I'm hoping to finally get fruit afterwards.
Update
Regardless whether I'm skeptical or not, she's got me. I now have to see this to the end and grow this DF variety to fruition, in order to evaluate/validate her DF sweetness claims.
Even if you don't like the taste of the new white flesh DF variety, it will provide pollen to pollinate your 'David Bowie'. Unless they are genetically the same.
I can't help but be skeptical, just like those caught fish stories. If she's exaggerated the sweetness 'out of the ballpark' as they say, I at least expect it to taste noticeably/pleasingly sweet. So, I really hope that I'm in a win win situation, we'll see.
Guys my Dragon Fruit plants has multiple individual plants running up my wooden poles....However these individual plants running up the [ole now have 1,2, and even 3 new extensions branching out form those....
Do I need to cut these extensions and leave only 1 runner to extend up the pole for each plant?
Guys my Dragon Fruit plants has multiple individual plants running up my wooden poles....However these individual plants running up the [ole now have 1,2, and even 3 new extensions branching out form those....
Do I need to cut these extensions and leave only 1 runner to extend up the pole for each plant?
I was asked this last Saturday. Cutting off the lower branches helps with training the plant to grow up the pole.
Guys my Dragon Fruit plants has multiple individual plants running up my wooden poles....However these individual plants running up the [ole now have 1,2, and even 3 new extensions branching out form those....
Do I need to cut these extensions and leave only 1 runner to extend up the pole for each plant?
I was asked this last Saturday. Cutting off the lower branches helps with training the plant to grow up the pole.
Would having multiple branches from each plant going up the pole reduce the quality of fruit?
Thanks for the kind words. I wanted to give a decent look with making it practical. Everything was on the fly as I didn't have any idea from the beginning. hehe.
Thanks for the kind words. I wanted to give a decent look with making it practical. Everything was on the fly as I didn't have any idea from the beginning. hehe.
That was on the fly! Can you come to my house, your handy work is amazing. You should be getting lots of fruit in 1-2 years. What varieties did you plant?
Simon
Incredible, very classy!
I have to copy that. Wow, great job!!
Thanks for the kind words. I wanted to give a decent look with making it practical. Everything was on the fly as I didn't have any idea from the beginning. hehe.
That was on the fly! Can you come to my house, your handy work is amazing. You should be getting lots of fruit in 1-2 years. What varieties did you plant?
Simon
Hahaha. Thanks for the compliment. The brand new miter saw was collecting dust so I decided to put it to use. At first, I knew I had to create a box around it so that the top stem could hang downward. And then I started to add additional pieces to help support it and make it a "pergola" like. It took me about 2 weeks to complete the project since I had to it all by myself.
I don't know what type of dragon fruit I have because I'm not familiar with the names. But, I do notice I have about 3 different kinds. All my cuttings came from my mom in Southern CA.
Here is a picture of my first dragon fruit from 3 years ago on the opposite side of the house. I put a 30% shade cloth on top to prevent it from yellowing the stems. It helps a lot... We were getting 85 - 95 degree temperature last month. I had the cloth on the new setup as well. The new stems couldn't handle the direct sun over 85 degrees.
(http://s17.postimg.cc/bg8mzuw9n/20141015_155921.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/bg8mzuw9n/)
How bad is this yellowing issue? we get up to 105 here in temecula... and the last heat wave turned quite a bit of the dragon fruit i recently planted yellow... is it still ok?
How bad is this yellowing issue? we get up to 105 here in temecula... and the last heat wave turned quite a bit of the dragon fruit i recently planted yellow... is it still ok?
I picked fruit today on a Dragon Fruit plant with heavy "yellowing issue".
Thanks for the kind words. I wanted to give a decent look with making it practical. Everything was on the fly as I didn't have any idea from the beginning. hehe.
That was on the fly! Can you come to my house, your handy work is amazing. You should be getting lots of fruit in 1-2 years. What varieties did you plant?
Simon
Hahaha. Thanks for the compliment. The brand new miter saw was collecting dust so I decided to put it to use. At first, I knew I had to create a box around it so that the top stem could hang downward. And then I started to add additional pieces to help support it and make it a "pergola" like. It took me about 2 weeks to complete the project since I had to it all by myself.
I don't know what type of dragon fruit I have because I'm not familiar with the names. But, I do notice I have about 3 different kinds. All my cuttings came from my mom in Southern CA.
Here is a picture of my first dragon fruit from 3 years ago on the opposite side of the house. I put a 30% shade cloth on top to prevent it from yellowing the stems. It helps a lot... We were getting 85 - 95 degree temperature last month. I had the cloth on the new setup as well. The new stems couldn't handle the direct sun over 85 degrees.
(http://s17.postimg.cc/bg8mzuw9n/20141015_155921.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/bg8mzuw9n/)
How bad is this yellowing issue? we get up to 105 here in temecula... and the last heat wave turned quite a bit of the dragon fruit i recently planted yellow... is it still ok?
yes, please send the directions, either pm, email, or post
is it possible to shade the dragon fruit and still get fruit? as in grown under a shade tree with partial sun during the day?
is it possible to shade the dragon fruit and still get fruit? as in grown under a shade tree with partial sun during the day?
Richsaw, is this the same H. polyrhizus you sent me a few months back along with armando? Both are doing great and I gave some cuttings away a few months ago.
The larger and best looking fruit came from a 'no name' variety grown by La Verne nursery.
Hello Everyone,
It's nice to see pictures of everyone's Dragon Fruits.
I would like to share a picture of my setup. I hope you enjoy the pictures.
Surprisingly, I had about 5 flowers within 6 months of planting, but only 3 of them going to survive in a fruit form.
Here is a picture when I started planting them from stem cutting on 04/07/2014:
(http://s8.postimg.cc/jagjjsi9d/20140407_103329.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/jagjjsi9d/)
Here is a picture of it 2 months later on 06/13/2014:
(http://s8.postimg.cc/6s94up01d/20140613_152230.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/6s94up01d/)
Here is a picture of adding the post on 07/13/2014:
(http://s1.postimg.cc/5rhcmlktn/20140713_182151.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5rhcmlktn/)
Here is a picture of the posts standing up on 07/16/2014:
(http://s1.postimg.cc/c6gdj9rjf/20140716_123208.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/c6gdj9rjf/)
Here is a picture of 90% of it being completed on 07/20/2014:
(http://s1.postimg.cc/uaje3wp7v/20140720_075647.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/uaje3wp7v/) (http://s1.postimg.cc/5ijrwo817/20140720_080128.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5ijrwo817/)
And here is a picture of it today with the second layer on top for the shade 6 months later on 10/15/2014:
(http://s29.postimg.cc/5kgye1hbn/20141015_101934.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5kgye1hbn/)
I just noticed that the DF are in black trash barrels. I plan on doing something similar, and filling in the bottom section with fruiting shrubs.
The larger and best looking fruit came from a 'no name' variety grown by La Verne nursery.
For those who do not live on the West Coast, this is what the Dragon Fruit plant looked like when I bought it from Lowe's.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/lowes_6.jpg)
Looks a lot like the one I bought from Lowe's yesterday! But yours appears to have three plants in the pot, whereas mine has only two.
Mine has the identical La Verne pot wrap that yours does.
The hanging tag on my plant does _not_ say "does not need a pollinator," but I'm presuming that if it's sold as "grow your own, enjoy your harvest" that it would either be self pollinating _or_ contain a warning of some sort. The sticker on my hanging tag does say "Dragon Fruit Pink #2 $14.98" like yours, except $5 bucks cheaper :D
I heard that the yellow dragon fruit has the beste taste of all them, is that true?
thank you
Mike
Ok, that sounds good, i bought some plants and took cuttings from them.
Now my cuestion is:
Is it better to plant the cuttings flat so theres more superficie touching the earth and rooting quicker, or plant it the normal way , sticking one peace in the earth.?
Also i like to know if somebody see dragon fruit growing against a wall, i have several stonewals and want to use them/the space, but what is better, to plant it at the bottom/feet of the wall and let it growing up, against the wall, or planting it on the top of the wall and let it growing down?
The yellow one polynise itself, but can i put red dragon fruit, like h undatus plant near and will they polynise each other, or are they 2 different families.
thank you
Mike
Ok, that sounds good, i bought some plants and took cuttings from them.
Now my cuestion is:
Is it better to plant the cuttings flat so theres more superficie touching the earth and rooting quicker, or plant it the normal way , sticking one peace in the earth.?
Also i like to know if somebody see dragon fruit growing against a wall, i have several stonewals and want to use them/the space, but what is better, to plant it at the bottom/feet of the wall and let it growing up, against the wall, or planting it on the top of the wall and let it growing down?
The yellow one polynise itself, but can i put red dragon fruit, like h undatus plant near and will they polynise each other, or are they 2 different families.
thank you
Mike
Mike, I have just started with the Yellow Dragon Fruit variety.
My advice is to plant the cutting the normal way, I do not know anybody who plants DF cuttings flat. You might want to start the cutting in a pot.
I think planting the DF plant at the bottom of the wall would be better and planting another DF near by is a good idea.
Flat dragon fruit cutting rooting may be a good idea in slower draining more wet humid environments to prevent rot. If your not rooting in a container with fast draining soil mix, then it may be a good option.
Flat dragon fruit cutting rooting may be a good idea in slower draining more wet humid environments to prevent rot. If your not rooting in a container with fast draining soil mix, then it may be a good option.
Does that mean flat on the ground surface or buried flat?
Here is an update of my Frankie's Red fruit. They seem to be growing larger than what I expected. Frankie's Red appears like it will fill the void between the regular DF and the Yellow megalanthus. Anyone have pictures showing the final size or perhaps the inside of a Frankie's Red? Any additional information on Frankie's Red is greatly appreciated.
Simon
(http://s3.postimg.cc/ch4z4oda7/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/ch4z4oda7/)
(http://s3.postimg.cc/rbtkiumv3/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/rbtkiumv3/)
There was some work published that said if the pollen is dried first it can keep in the refrigerator for a fairly long time, even longer if it is frozen. I'll look up the reference at work tomorrow.
Richard
That would be some quite valuable datas....
The paper is Metz et al., Hortscience 35(2):199-201, 2000
Their results are that after drying the pollen under vacuum for 1 -2 hours. pollen stored in a freezer still gives 100% fruit set and normal sized fruit after 9 months of storage in a freezer. Fruit set with dried pollen stored in a refrigerator was 60-70% with smaller fruits, but they still got fruit.
I am trying this myself, using dried stored pollen, and can let you know how it works in a couple of months (just attempted the pollination on Tuesday)
Richard
Look something like one of these?
<picture><picture><picture>
Frankies Red?!Congratulations my friend! ;D
I have some photos on this link:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/adalmoro/sets/72157629983253795/ (https://www.flickr.com/photos/adalmoro/sets/72157629983253795/)
I'm intrigued by your last photo, too. Did you wrap the horizontal growth up around your support post? The plant I bought I growing outward, and it's only about 2' tall. I'd read that I should prune off some/all of the horizontal growth to promote verticality, but if I can just train it upward, would that accomplish the same thing and preserve a bunch of viable plant material?
There was some work published that said if the pollen is dried first it can keep in the refrigerator for a fairly long time, even longer if it is frozen. I'll look up the reference at work tomorrow.
Richard
That would be some quite valuable datas....
The paper is Metz et al., Hortscience 35(2):199-201, 2000
Their results are that after drying the pollen under vacuum for 1 -2 hours. pollen stored in a freezer still gives 100% fruit set and normal sized fruit after 9 months of storage in a freezer. Fruit set with dried pollen stored in a refrigerator was 60-70% with smaller fruits, but they still got fruit.
I am trying this myself, using dried stored pollen, and can let you know how it works in a couple of months (just attempted the pollination on Tuesday)
Richard
Richard,
I don't recall seeing you update with the results of your stored pollen experiment. Can you fill us in on how well the dessicated pollen worked?
James
I have a natural mystic ripening on the counter. Hopefully that will solve your/our problem. I love the way they look, but need to taste some elite types. Hoping NM is the first of many good-tasting DFs
Harvested the last 2 Dark Star of the season this morning.
23 and 20.5 ounces.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/DS_11-09-2014_zps506509ba.jpg)
DM
I have a natural mystic ripening on the counter. Hopefully that will solve your/our problem. I love the way they look, but need to taste some elite types. Hoping NM is the first of many good-tasting DFs
I assume you got it from the same place I did last Sunday. I ate one right away and waited on the other until yesterday. Both were totally bland.
The natural mystics that taste the best are the ones that start to split at the end. Still not my favorite at this point but good to very good. Hard to beat the productivity. Got 6 fruit still hanging on a relatively small vine.
Can anyone tell me if there is a difference between "vietnamese white" and "giant vietnamese" varieties?
Mattslandscape.com lists them as separate varieties.
I am wondering which variety would be best for cross pollination and production of the greatest amount of pollen.
Brad
Vietnamese Giant is considered good for cross pollination.
Maybe you guys should try some of the top 10 Dragon Fruits from CA's tier list... Cebra ranked number 1 with a brix of about 19 I think.
This begs the question: For this type of thorny DF, is using a wood pole the best method for growing this DF variety? Or would other methods, like growing it on rocks, yield better results and better means of avoiding the thorns when handling plant.
Ricshaw how do we read that info?
Heat tolerance for example is that specific for California or Florida? It would be easyier if they just mentioned the recommended temperatures. Same for cold hardiness or how much sun they like to get.
Cebra has heat tolerance of 3.5
I have no idea if i can put this one in full sun or better find another spot.
I think i will first clone them and then use the trial and error way of finding the best spot for each one.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/2014Pitahaya-DFChart_zps7417b409.jpg)
Any idea on what variety this may be? It seems like its a renamed Edgar selection of Condor? http://www.rareseeds.com/edgar-s-baby-dragon-fruit-pre-order/?F_Keyword=dragon (http://www.rareseeds.com/edgar-s-baby-dragon-fruit-pre-order/?F_Keyword=dragon)
Cebra has heat tolerance of 3.5
I have no idea if i can put this one in full sun or better find another spot.
I think i will first clone them and then use the trial and error way of finding the best spot for each one.
Nice cuttings! Good luck with them.Maybe you guys should try some of the top 10 Dragon Fruits from CA's tier list... Cebra ranked number 1 with a brix of about 19 I think.
Cebra is the 2nd from left.
I will let you know which one i like the best. :P
(http://s18.postimg.cc/xo30pmool/dragonfruits.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/xo30pmool/)
Any idea on what variety this may be? It seems like its a renamed Edgar selection of Condor? http://www.rareseeds.com/edgar-s-baby-dragon-fruit-pre-order/?F_Keyword=dragon (http://www.rareseeds.com/edgar-s-baby-dragon-fruit-pre-order/?F_Keyword=dragon)
Ricshaw how do we read that info?
Heat tolerance for example is that specific for California or Florida? It would be easyier if they just mentioned the recommended temperatures. Same for cold hardiness or how much sun they like to get.
Cebra has heat tolerance of 3.5
I have no idea if i can put this one in full sun or better find another spot.
I think i will first clone them and then use the trial and error way of finding the best spot for each one.
Also, is anyone growing haileys comet and does it live up to the description on PIN DF variety veiwer? http://www.tropicalfruitnursery.com/dragon/index.htm (http://www.tropicalfruitnursery.com/dragon/index.htm) I like their description as being large, and also a pretty pink flesh, if I get another DF it might be Halley's Comet.
-joep450
Ricshaw how do we read that info?
Heat tolerance for example is that specific for California or Florida? It would be easyier if they just mentioned the recommended temperatures. Same for cold hardiness or how much sun they like to get.
Cebra has heat tolerance of 3.5
I have no idea if i can put this one in full sun or better find another spot.
I think i will first clone them and then use the trial and error way of finding the best spot for each one.
Bangkok,
My 2 cents on this is that with the exception of Purple Haze, all of the plants you have are pretty equal as far as sun tolerance goes. Most of mine (the oldest) are placed against a south facing fence and get full sun on the tops with variable amounts of shade (some to none) at their feet. They all do very well where they are, with a bit of sun bleaching (the light green stems) but strong healthy growth. The exception in Purple Haze which I have found to sunburn VERY easily. I had mine in a semi shaded location for a few years where it grew spectacularly. Last spring I moved it to s sunnier location and when summer came around it kept getting sunburn and rot until I lost half the plant. It is a shame and I need to move it since it is one of my favorite Hylocereus.
That said, I am in coastal Southern CA and have a very mild climate with lots of fog and overcast days to minimize sun exposure. My recollection of Thailand is hot with very intense sun, so all of your might benefit from some sun protection.
Richard
Any idea on what variety this may be? It seems like its a renamed Edgar selection of Condor? http://www.rareseeds.com/edgar-s-baby-dragon-fruit-pre-order/?F_Keyword=dragon (http://www.rareseeds.com/edgar-s-baby-dragon-fruit-pre-order/?F_Keyword=dragon)
I'm with you on this Null. The green color of the skin sure reminds me of Condor. Are there any others that have that green skin when ripe?
Richard
I have a question for you guys, I was given a cutting from a friend at work about 8 months ago, I plant it in a small pot and maybe one month or two later the pot is full of roots so I go to a bigger size, maybe another month or so and the roots have filled the pot again so I step it up to a bigger pot.
All this time the cutting does not grow, just makes roots. I bought another cutting from a nursery and it doubled in size in one month, meanwhile this other cutting still does nothing. I get mad and cut its head off to try and get it to grow, still nothing....
Now I see it is sending up a sucker I guess you call it, its a bit hard to see in the photo.
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/Garden/20141208_185831.jpg)
So what should I do with this plant?
you planted it upside down.
you planted it upside down.
I shared Simon's S. Megalanthus hybrids pdf link, on his Awesome Yellow Dragonfruit hybrids thread, with a CRFG friend.
My friend sent back an interesting related PowerPoint pdf. Check it out.
http://www.agrimaroc.net/cactus-congress/s22-%20Pitahayas%20introduction%20agrotechniques%20and%20breeding.pdf (http://www.agrimaroc.net/cactus-congress/s22-%20Pitahayas%20introduction%20agrotechniques%20and%20breeding.pdf)
I had a recent trip to the martin county property appraiser's office -> 1111 Southeast Federal Highway, Stuart, FL 34994 and came across this dragon fruit growing over the fence into the parking lot. Since I had my pocket knife on me I nabbed two cuttings, serendipity.
(http://s2.postimg.cc/63ykaw0p1/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/63ykaw0p1/)
-joep450
https://www.google.co.th/search?q=dragon+fruit+tree&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=643&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=77ycVMf_JZepuwTIsoCICg&ved=0CBsQsAQ#facrc=_&imgdii=5cqpYOy3W__64M%3A%3BECb6gwbT5S4IWM%3B5cqpYOy3W__64M%3A&imgrc=5cqpYOy3W__64M%253A%3BaLUkTrBJnI5hPM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fpaulabrown.net%252Fdragon-fruit-plant-turning-yellow-29.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fpaulabrown.net%252Fdragon-fruit-plant-turning-yellow%3B500%3B375 (https://www.google.co.th/search?q=dragon+fruit+tree&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=643&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=77ycVMf_JZepuwTIsoCICg&ved=0CBsQsAQ#facrc=_&imgdii=5cqpYOy3W__64M%3A%3BECb6gwbT5S4IWM%3B5cqpYOy3W__64M%3A&imgrc=5cqpYOy3W__64M%253A%3BaLUkTrBJnI5hPM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fpaulabrown.net%252Fdragon-fruit-plant-turning-yellow-29.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fpaulabrown.net%252Fdragon-fruit-plant-turning-yellow%3B500%3B375)
I want to grow dragonfruit like on these pics. Short and compact and loads of fruit.
I always thought they have to hang down before they can fruit but thise grower must have some special tricks i guess.
What did they do to get this? Obviously they pruned them a lot but is that small pot also helping to let them fruit?
Ricshaw i agree, this looks too good to be true. Nice way to sell the cactus or as a gift.
anybody with flower buds right now in Socal, if so what varieties?
Ricshaw i agree, this looks too good to be true. Nice way to sell the cactus or as a gift.
I agree too ...
This image helps to understand:
(http://s28.postimg.cc/ej8c2gmsp/Dragon_fruit_trees.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/ej8c2gmsp/)
This text says because these trees are sold:
http://vietnamtoday.net/Print.aspx?Culture=vi-VN&q=120644 (http://vietnamtoday.net/Print.aspx?Culture=vi-VN&q=120644)
anybody with flower buds right now in Socal, if so what varieties?
I have some on my yellow Colombian.
Thanks Mark and Ric.
Any tips on how to make a cutting grow super fast and produce fruit within a year period?
Thanks Mark and Ric.
Any tips on how to make a cutting grow super fast and produce fruit within a year period?
Yes, replicate a warm environment with long daylight hours. So put it in a heated greenhouse with some holidays lights or flourescent lighting when the sun goes down LED is more efficient but more expensive.
A friend in coastal San Diego once went from seed to fruit in 18 months or so. It's the exception rather than the rule.
Poles without top structure?
So I am in a situation where I have the poles without anything on the top. They are reinforced concrete poles with a flat 3x3 inch top. The cuttings would reach the top in few months. Therefore getting in to panic mode I have looked at various options for the top but nothing constructive seems to fit (on the poles as well as my budget).
I'm now considering to leave the poles without anything on the top, like in these images from the net.
(copyright images, using direct link)
http://www.my-rainforest-adventures.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/dragon-fruit-plantation.jpg (http://www.my-rainforest-adventures.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/dragon-fruit-plantation.jpg)
http://www.dreamstime.com/stock-photo-field-young-dragon-fruit-plants-lead-concrete-poles-pitaya-plant-aka-cactus-up-image32472770 (http://www.dreamstime.com/stock-photo-field-young-dragon-fruit-plants-lead-concrete-poles-pitaya-plant-aka-cactus-up-image32472770)
http://pippikorean.blogspot.in/2012/01/dragon-fruit.html (http://pippikorean.blogspot.in/2012/01/dragon-fruit.html)
How would this work for the plant?
Poles without top structure?
So I am in a situation where I have the poles without anything on the top. They are reinforced concrete poles with a flat 3x3 inch top. The cuttings would reach the top in few months. Therefore getting in to panic mode I have looked at various options for the top but nothing constructive seems to fit (on the poles as well as my budget).
I'm now considering to leave the poles without anything on the top, like in these images from the net.
(copyright images, using direct link)
http://www.my-rainforest-adventures.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/dragon-fruit-plantation.jpg (http://www.my-rainforest-adventures.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/dragon-fruit-plantation.jpg)
http://www.dreamstime.com/stock-photo-field-young-dragon-fruit-plants-lead-concrete-poles-pitaya-plant-aka-cactus-up-image32472770 (http://www.dreamstime.com/stock-photo-field-young-dragon-fruit-plants-lead-concrete-poles-pitaya-plant-aka-cactus-up-image32472770)
http://pippikorean.blogspot.in/2012/01/dragon-fruit.html (http://pippikorean.blogspot.in/2012/01/dragon-fruit.html)
How would this work for the plant?
After having talked this trough with my family, I got allowed to buy 2 dragonfruit cutting from Mattlandscape all the way here to Denmark.
I was a little stupid and put them in the ground alittle too early, so I took them out again, cut the bad part away and put fungicide rooting powder just for insurance.
So, the big question, are they ready to be planted, or should I wait till they start making roots before putting in soil?
They are both American beauty
(http://s27.postimg.cc/6mrvivvzz/IMG_0077.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/6mrvivvzz/)
(http://s27.postimg.cc/g61kccji7/IMG_0076.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/g61kccji7/)
Elk creek may provide better after sale advice. Linda nickerson is a pretty opinionated lady and will tell you more than you asked. I've not dealt with either one but I've heard Linda speak at past dragon fruit festivals and events.
Elk creek may provide better after sale advice. Linda nickerson is a pretty opinionated lady and will tell you more than you asked. I've not dealt with either one but I've heard Linda speak at past dragon fruit festivals and events.
I spoke to Linda last year on her Dragon Fruit selections...I mentioned several of the Dragon Fruit plants i purchased down the road at Matts nursery... LMFAO!!!! she immediately acknoledged Matt as some Novice Grower who doesn't know much about Dragon Fruit except his Epi Cacti....literally downplayed the guy and made me feel uncomfortable...Maybe because Matt started his buisness much later than she did and he has over 50 plus varities...while she has only a few.... Matt moves hundreds of plants a week via Amazon and his website, while I'm sure her numbers are much smaller....Seems like there's some turf war going on down there in Fallbrook lol.
I can vouch for mAtt. He's a good guy and is a straight shooter. Has always supplied me good cuttings that have always been true and gives me freebies with every order. Wish all sellers were like him.
And yes-- he knows his shit, believe me. I've had some great conversations with him via email that have really helped me out.
Need to add some more Dragon fruit to my collection.any good variety that is cold hardy and a fast grower (and good taste of coarse). any suggestions, thanks.
Anyone know when the next Dragon fruit festival and field day in Irvine is? I've always wanted to go there but never had the chance.Also do they charge? If they do how much do they usually charge? Thanks
Has anyone had success using LED light to extend the season (or make them everbearing)? I picked up 2 12v waterproof 10w floods from Amazon, shining from the bottom up into the vines, but they haven't induced any flowers yet. Maybe my vine isn't big enough or it's an issue with heat.
Has anyone had success using LED light to extend the season (or make them everbearing)? I picked up 2 12v waterproof 10w floods from Amazon, shining from the bottom up into the vines, but they haven't induced any flowers yet. Maybe my vine isn't big enough or it's an issue with heat.
20W of LED lights in a non reflective area, is going to be very little light to the plant. Your vine needs to gain mass first to spur flowering. I would say around +150 watt of LED grow light would be needed to flower a DF vine indoors. Also an area of 2'x2' with white walls or mylar would help greatly. No idea if you could trick the DF vine into flowering multiple times through out the year, but I assume it would be possible by manipulating the hours of artificial light to the plant (to stimulate hours reducing from summer into fall).
I spoke to Linda yesterday when I picked up 2 of Paul Thompson's S-8 Sugar Dragons, She and her Husband told me they picked their last Sugar Dragon last Month and that the season Starts Spring...... If that's true then it seems you would almost have an everbearing Dragon Fruit with variety losing out on about 3 months of Fruit.
I should have bought 4 plants, but the Wife was with me so I only got 2 :'(
Has anyone had success using LED light to extend the season (or make them everbearing)? I picked up 2 12v waterproof 10w floods from Amazon, shining from the bottom up into the vines, but they haven't induced any flowers yet. Maybe my vine isn't big enough or it's an issue with heat.
Has anyone had success using LED light to extend the season (or make them everbearing)? I picked up 2 12v waterproof 10w floods from Amazon, shining from the bottom up into the vines, but they haven't induced any flowers yet. Maybe my vine isn't big enough or it's an issue with heat.
Josh,
How long (days) have the lights been on?
LED lights are pretty much single or very narrow spectrum. So a whitish LED will not feed your DF at all, unlike a broad spectrum fluorescent bulb. You need a color that's in the absorption range of the plant. Those are the spooky red and blue colors and your neighbors would wonder if you're growing pot when that was illegal. Search for grow LED in eBay to find them. Our member (Kevin? CoPlantNut?) In Colorado has been using them in the basement during winters and has firsthand experience.
LED lights are pretty much single or very narrow spectrum. So a whitish LED will not feed your DF at all, unlike a broad spectrum fluorescent bulb. You need a color that's in the absorption range of the plant. Those are the spooky red and blue colors and your neighbors would wonder if you're growing pot when that was illegal. Search for grow LED in eBay to find them. Our member (Kevin? CoPlantNut?) In Colorado has been using them in the basement during winters and has firsthand experience.
I don't think that is true, the white LED light will give some usable light to the plant. However it would not be as much as a specialized LED grow light.
This looks like a decent wattage to start at. I would consider getting a tall grow tent 3'x3'x8', or doing it cheaper and getting some white cardboard to place around and a stand to hold the light above the plant.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151374521551?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true (http://www.ebay.com/itm/151374521551?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true)
I was going to post this on a separate thread but since it was mentioned here, I'll discuss it here. By planting Frankies Red and the Yellow Dragon H/S Megalanthus, you can pretty much cover most the year. I didn't do anything special and both varieties are still holding fruit. Both varieties seem to be able to hold fruit for a very very long time. I have to double check but I believe I've had fruit since November. I'll take picture later.
Simon
The commercial growers only turn on the lights from 10-2am using this setup (CFLs in the pic):
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/sg-jWbNmOxjUGUjBqLlO-7RvSKuzl_GVED6gA8NpL-fryJ_yjibd1VxHW4GdI9_nnq5noBFYVsSwzsdfGI1fqWKDYsdrq5WX2zl2CHurNNlR7mY87j3CqQIFQ7hZWLdx4w)
Josh,
Yeah the 300w LED is over kill. I don't know why I did not think of recommending you the LED Grow light strips before;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-3-4-5-10-25-50m-5050-LED-Strip-Aquarium-Greenhouse-Hydroponic-Grow-Light-12V-/381115004615?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item58bc3976c7 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-3-4-5-10-25-50m-5050-LED-Strip-Aquarium-Greenhouse-Hydroponic-Grow-Light-12V-/381115004615?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item58bc3976c7)
They are waterproof and you can string them around the tree. You will just need to hook up the power ends to an adapter, you can use power twists and and a suitable 12V power adapter.
Josh,
Yeah the 300w LED is over kill. I don't know why I did not think of recommending you the LED Grow light strips before;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-3-4-5-10-25-50m-5050-LED-Strip-Aquarium-Greenhouse-Hydroponic-Grow-Light-12V-/381115004615?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item58bc3976c7 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-3-4-5-10-25-50m-5050-LED-Strip-Aquarium-Greenhouse-Hydroponic-Grow-Light-12V-/381115004615?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item58bc3976c7)
They are waterproof and you can string them around the tree. You will just need to hook up the power ends to an adapter, you can use power twists and and a suitable 12V power adapter.
That's pretty cool! Those may work. I feel like I need to do some more research to figure out what the problem is. The potential issues are:
-Wrong light spectrum (2700k needed instead of 3000k). Also, it appears DF needs 660nm wavelength in LED terms, not sure how that translates to kelvin.
-Not enough light
-Not enough coverage
-Plant too young
I was going to post this on a separate thread but since it was mentioned here, I'll discuss it here. By planting Frankies Red and the Yellow Dragon H/S Megalanthus, you can pretty much cover most the year. I didn't do anything special and both varieties are still holding fruit. Both varieties seem to be able to hold fruit for a very very long time. I have to double check but I believe I've had fruit since November. I'll take picture later.
Simon
One difference between H. megalanthus and most other Dragon Fruit varieties is the "days to harvest".
In Southern California, most Dragon Fruit varieties take about 45 days. Yellow Dragon Fruit takes about 165 days.
Josh,
Yeah the 300w LED is over kill. I don't know why I did not think of recommending you the LED Grow light strips before;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-3-4-5-10-25-50m-5050-LED-Strip-Aquarium-Greenhouse-Hydroponic-Grow-Light-12V-/381115004615?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item58bc3976c7 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-3-4-5-10-25-50m-5050-LED-Strip-Aquarium-Greenhouse-Hydroponic-Grow-Light-12V-/381115004615?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item58bc3976c7)
They are waterproof and you can string them around the tree. You will just need to hook up the power ends to an adapter, you can use power twists and and a suitable 12V power adapter.
That's pretty cool! Those may work. I feel like I need to do some more research to figure out what the problem is. The potential issues are:
-Wrong light spectrum (2700k needed instead of 3000k). Also, it appears DF needs 660nm wavelength in LED terms, not sure how that translates to kelvin.
-Not enough light
-Not enough coverage
-Plant too young
That strip I listed should have 660nm in it, they just don't list the wavelengths. Other similar strips do such as this listing; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-660nm-Blue-455nm-5-1-LED-5050-Flexible-Strips-Light-for-Plant-Grow-Growth-/261605177804?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item3ce8e239cc (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-660nm-Blue-455nm-5-1-LED-5050-Flexible-Strips-Light-for-Plant-Grow-Growth-/261605177804?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item3ce8e239cc) . However most strips are made in china by the same companies, so I assume they most likely having the same wavelengths. I would browse through ebay and find the best deal for the strips, if you decide to get them.
He might have meant 10 Lux rather than Lumens? 10 lux is really small so I'm not sure if that's correct either.
Lumen = total light output from a light source. My 1-AAA LED keychain light outputs ~13 lumens.
Lux = amount of light "flow" through a surface area (something like square meter).
Graham Reindeers does know a lot about DF and supplement lighting used in various places. You can read more of his posts in the pitayafruit yahoo group.
Here's a picture of my Frankies red and yellow dragon still with fruit on them. I just cut open a yellow dragon and the texture is still perfect, not mushy at all but the Brix has dropped down to 17%. It is still very sweet, a hundred times better than the commercial ones but less sweet than in December and January.
Yes they absolutely take longer to ripen the fruit and the most important aspect is that once the fruit ripens, they can hold on the vine for many months. Some of my Yellow DF have been ripe for several months and they still appear to be good at least looking at the outside of it. I will cut one open later to verify the Brix and texture are still ok.
The regular DF do not hold well on the vine and easily become mushy.
Simon
Here's a picture of a Frankies Ared still on the vine picture taken today. I also harvested one fruit.
Simon
(http://s1.postimg.cc/q7e0brevv/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/q7e0brevv/)
Yup, Frankies Red takes about the same amount of time to ripen as the Yellow Dragon. Frankies Red flowers earlier and thus ripens a little earlier but I still do also have two fruits left on Frankies Red. I'll cut one open tomorrow and report back with fruit quality this late into the season.
If you see the pictures on reply #5 of this thread: http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=13533.0 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=13533.0)
You can see that my fruit were already ripe in December 15 and if I remember correctly, some were actually ripe in November. I looked at my old picture from the December 15 post and compared them to my fruit today and it sure looks like some of the same ripe fruit from December are the same fruit I harvested today meaning that they held on the vine for about 3 months if not longer because they were actually ripe before I took the picture.
The Yellow Dragons I harvested today look pretty horrible with many small brown and reddish specks all over the fruit but the eating quality is still excellent. I remember that I was still harvesting some straggler Simons Purple, American Beauty and Halkeys Comet when the Frankies red were ripening so if I'm able to somehow stimulate these varieties SP, AB, HC to flower early, I can almost get year round harvest as long as my Yellow can continue to hold on the vine for another month or two.
I will try to leave one of my yellow fruit for as long as possible to see just how long they can hang without going bad. I think April and May will be the months that are most difficult to get ripe Dragon Fruit.
Simon
Any help?
So I just got some frankie's red cuttings a couple days ago and I just noticed they had flower buds. I know the plant can't have fruit since it's just a cutting.So my question is should I just take the bud off or will it just die off? Thanks
(http://s10.postimg.cc/96p2l5p1h/20150322_141539.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/96p2l5p1h/) | (http://s10.postimg.cc/gbbh7xlol/20150322_141552.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/gbbh7xlol/) | (http://s14.postimg.cc/f3fksjohp/20150322_142036.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/f3fksjohp/) | (http://s10.postimg.cc/dm7hqf1fp/20150322_141723.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/dm7hqf1fp/) |
(http://s14.postimg.cc/5lb8erdfh/20150322_141447.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5lb8erdfh/) | (http://s14.postimg.cc/g4ftho5h9/20150322_141945.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/g4ftho5h9/) | (http://s10.postimg.cc/cb4bvov7p/20150322_142242.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/cb4bvov7p/) | (http://s10.postimg.cc/52o3snt39/20150322_141922.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/52o3snt39/) |
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Hi,
I picked up a Hailey's Comet from Home Depot while in Miami and I live in the midwest where the lightning and weather is not suitable. I didn't have any idea what I was actually picking up until I got home. Abut 90 days later, it's clear my dragonfruit is not getting the light it needs as its showing very clear signs of etiolation.
I've been searching for what specific lightning I need to grow this plant indoors as if we were considering very minimal, if any, sun. So far, from reading this forum and other sources, I need to obtain a 300 watt LED light that is in the red/blue spectrum and specifically with Red at 660nm and this light should be on the plant for about 12-15 hours a day. Does this sound right? Do I need 300 watts? Is this the only light needed? I've read many places that all types of lights will work while others have had mixed results.
The setup in my below pictures is using a 24in draining pot that begins with rocks, Perlite, Peat Moss / Perlite / Vermiculite/ Potting Soil / Compost, Compost, and compost starter containing desired fungus. This was initially one plant but I cut off several branches and began trying to plant them in a circle with a goal of pruning to be a tree of sorts. My goal at this stage is to fix the lighting situation and begin setting the root stalks. Any advice would be really appreciated!
Thanks!
Unknown purple giant DF with flower buds in march?
(http://s11.postimg.cc/j6iwzyo67/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/j6iwzyo67/)
(http://s10.postimg.cc/5yjfvvh1x/image2.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5yjfvvh1x/)
Leo's Costa Rican Dragon will be available to those that are willing to drive to Leo's home in late summer.
Yes, It's Leo's newest selection. It is a H. costaricensis X S. Megalanthus. It is a top selection made in 2005 that sports fruit that is NOT spiky, unlike Frankie's Red and S. Megalanthus. It doesn't have any H. Undatus in the mix. It appears to have a dark purple-ish flesh that could be interesting. Leo said on the Yahoo! group that it will be ready by the end of the summer. I don't live in California, so could someone shed some light on experience with it?Leo's Costa Rican Dragon will be available to those that are willing to drive to Leo's home in late summer.
Hello Nathan, do you have any information on Leo's Costan Dragon? Is that the one he crossed with the S Megalanthus.
Simon
Yes, It's Leo's newest selection. It is a H. costaricensis X S. Megalanthus. It is a top selection made in 2005 that sports fruit that is NOT spiky, unlike Frankie's Red and S. Megalanthus. It doesn't have any H. Undatus in the mix. It appears to have a dark purple-ish flesh that could be interesting. Leo said on the Yahoo! group that it will be ready by the end of the summer. I don't live in California, so could someone shed some light on experience with it?
The fruit is featured in the second half of ricshaw's video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRtO7J6ZKX0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRtO7J6ZKX0)
It looks like I will be close to having Dragonfruit year round. My Simons Purple DF is now popping out flower buds all over the place. It's always the first to flower for me followed by American Beauty and then Halley's Comet. It's still going to be a while before I harvest any fruit but at least my Yellow Dragon still has ripe and still good quality fruit on it.
I just harvested my last Frankies Red because it got sunburned on one side and it was still great tasting so late in the season. The Brix was at 17% but it tasted very sweet and the texture was firm and the fruit has more than just a hint of Watermelon flavor. I still have one Frankies Red in the fridge.
I will leave my last couple Yellow Dragonfruit hanging on the vine for as long as possible in order to see if it will hold till my Simons Purple is ready. I Think that if I harvested a fruit and keep it in the fridge, it may very well hold till the Simons Purple is ready.
I did not do anything special to get my Simons Purple to flower, I think they just naturally flower around this time of year.
Simon
Anyone have links to videos or good information regarding ways to increase flowering and fruit set for Dragonfruit? I thought I remembered reading that drought stress and or pruning can promote flowering? I might have read it in a DragonFruit book or CRFG article but can't seem to find it.
Anyways, I gave my DF plants some drought stress for about two months starting about two months ago and I fertilized with Hawaiian bud and bloom about two weeks ago. Now that I see small flower buds, I'm going to drench with kelp emulsion and also apply a slow release fertilizer like Vigro from Home Depot. I stopped counting the flowers on my Simons Purple after 60 and I also noticed a few flower buds on my American Beauty. I have not seen any flower buds on my Halleys Comet yet.
Simon
(http://s14.postimg.cc/9zcs6o0zh/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/9zcs6o0zh/)
Hey All -
On a recent trip to Home Depot (think I was there for lightbulbs), I took a stroll though their "Garden" on my way out. As I passed by their display of succulents, a container of dragon fruit caught my attention. Guess I recognized the catci because of the photos I've seen posted on this forum. Two containers of "Haley's Comet" sat there mixed in with a dozen or so "succulents". I don't currently grow any DF at my home, but thought it would be fun to add some dragon fruit to my collection of mangos, passion fruit, guanabana, mulberry, loquat, banana, starfruit, fig, persian lime and coconut.
I only noticed the label stating that these dragon fruit had been treated with Neonicotinoids after I got them home. Anyhow, I keep my property pesticide-free and although these dragon fruit are good looking specimens, I'll be returning them tomorrow to Home Depot tomorrow.
Based on the Dragon fruit threads I've read, I know a lot of you have many DF beauties of your own and was hoping I could propagate some of the great varieties other forum members have in my garden. Happy to pay shipping and should also have some good philippine mangos ripening in a month or two as well as yellow passion fruit.
Thanks in advance all.
Cheers
(http://s13.postimg.cc/x1eyh7dar/20150403_175017.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/x1eyh7dar/)Hi,
I picked up a Hailey's Comet from Home Depot while in Miami and I live in the midwest where the lightning and weather is not suitable. I didn't have any idea what I was actually picking up until I got home. Abut 90 days later, it's clear my dragonfruit is not getting the light it needs as its showing very clear signs of etiolation.
I've been searching for what specific lightning I need to grow this plant indoors as if we were considering very minimal, if any, sun. So far, from reading this forum and other sources, I need to obtain a 300 watt LED light that is in the red/blue spectrum and specifically with Red at 660nm and this light should be on the plant for about 12-15 hours a day. Does this sound right? Do I need 300 watts? Is this the only light needed? I've read many places that all types of lights will work while others have had mixed results.
The setup in my below pictures is using a 24in draining pot that begins with rocks, Perlite, Peat Moss / Perlite / Vermiculite/ Potting Soil / Compost, Compost, and compost starter containing desired fungus. This was initially one plant but I cut off several branches and began trying to plant them in a circle with a goal of pruning to be a tree of sorts. My goal at this stage is to fix the lighting situation and begin setting the root stalks. Any advice would be really appreciated!
Thanks!
This 300watt LED off ebay looked good; http://www.ebay.com/itm/MarsHydro-300W-LED-Grow-Light-Kit-Horticulture-Full-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Plants-/151374521551?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233e9fe4cf (http://www.ebay.com/itm/MarsHydro-300W-LED-Grow-Light-Kit-Horticulture-Full-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Plants-/151374521551?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item233e9fe4cf)
Your also going to want a grow tent (unless you have grow area setup), so you can increase the reflectivity with the LED grow light. Look for mylar indoor grow tents that are around 6ft tall and maybe a 4'x4' L/W. You may also want to get some side LED lightening . If you face grow tent door opening out toward the window, you can have the plant opened up during the day time and then at night you close it up and run the lights for 8 hours or so.
Hey guys,
My dragonfruit cuttings finally started rooting and has put out many lovely root in their small container <3 Also the gift Epis I got from Mattlandscape rooted and they have both got a flower on their top.
(http://s30.postimg.cc/xxepbdmwd/IMG_0440.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/xxepbdmwd/)
Around 3 days earlier, I started seeing something at one of the nodes on the American Beauties, and I got so excited thinking it was the start of a new shoot, but now I'm not so sure.
This is a flower bud, isn't it?
(http://s28.postimg.cc/4nizxu0sp/IMG_0439.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/4nizxu0sp/)
I'm pretty sure my plants are happy, since they get around 6-8 hours of sun from my windowsill
Anyone know how to push the growth of Dragonfruit seedlings? I sprouted a few seeds and after its seed leaves appeared, it has not grown at all in about two to three weeks. Can seedlings take full sun, they are currently in partial sun and I was wondering if that is why they are growing so slowly. These seeds are very precious so I want to be extremely careful with them yet I also want to speed up their growth as fast as possible. Thanks in advance!
Simon
it was in the greenhouse all winter
and had only 2 or 3 segments,
then sprouted lots of growth, so , i put it in the ground.
i am in New Orleans (9b) and a freeze killed my other dragonfruit in a container
so, this one will be against the house, pretty well protected.
but, now i got some spots on it... rot or something ?
this pic is a few days old, i just noticed new growth
from the top of the tall skinny segment today.
will this skinny segment get wider ?
is this a problem ?
supports are temporary till i figure out what i want to do.
i put a pine cone between 2 segments to separate them.
segment on the bottom-left is not planted in the ground
just touching the leaf litter
it does have a few roots on it though
should i plant it in the soil ?
(http://s8.postimg.cc/fmtod4v9t/drago.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/fmtod4v9t/)
Hi everyone, first time poster. We are in Jacksonville, FL, and we bought a house about 2 years ago and have since populated the backyard with 2 Murcott Oranges, 2 Yuzus, and a Celeste Fig. I am looking to add 2 dragon fruit to our collection, and I was hoping some more experienced posters could answer a couple questions.Not sure about whether they'll fruit under the shade or whatever, but it's definitely possibly to hand-pollinate. The flowers are only open a few hours though, so you have to be willing to get up early
We have a screened lanai on the back porch, south side. I was wondering if I could place dragon fruits in containers on the screened lanai (to avoid the occasional winter frosts we get here), and if I could expect them to produce fruit, and could I hand pollinate? They would get at least 8 hours of sun through the screen. The lanai is big enough that I can get containers as large as necessary.
Any help or advice would be much appreciated!
Will they grow in cold climates like the UK?Yes, Kew garden has them. They can't take a freeze though so if you mean outdoors then no.
Here are some updates since using the 300w (7172 lumens) LED that Nullzero recommended. You can see the etiolation without the light and the drastic change when the LED was introduced. I know I should get rid of the etiolated growth but I decided to let it go for now. After adding the LED, the four cuttings each have a new shoot that appears to be growing really nicely. The only one not growing is the one in the picture that looks like its been cut. It came this way from Home Depot when I picked it up i Miami. Not sure what I need to do to get this one to produce a shoot.
I didn't buy a grow tent yet but bought about 10 Mylar survival blankets and put one on the wall. It appears to be growing very well without completing enclosing the plant but I'm guessing it will grow faster if it were enclosed. I'm letting the LED run from about 7am-1am each day.
I also have two CFLs shining on the shoots. One is 6500k (1600 lumens) daylight @ 100w. The second is 2700k (2300 lumens) @ 150w. I'm not sure which is most beneficial for the plant. I notice 2700k CFLs are used often with the idea that brightness is more useful that a daylight. Any thoughts?
Thanks for everyone's comments!
Hey Dangermouse, there's already red skinned, red fleshed DF varieties out there. Is this one special in some sort of way. The name makes it sound super red unless the the Mega is referring to it being a Megalanthus.
Simon
Danger mouse,Richard, it looks like the one I had labeled as Yellow Undatus, as the one I had labeled as Red Megalanthus looks like an Undatus. Have you found any additional information on what we have? I'm sure I labeled them correctly as I received them, I think the person had the two varieties backwards, and has now reversed it. I should have flowers this season. My "Houghton just put out it's first flowers last night and tonight. I also talked to Alex Silber about the "Namibia Orange" variety and he says he has never heard of it, but claims Frankies has an orange skinned megalanthus which maybe the one we have.
Did you happen to get a photo of the "Mega Red?" I have a plant that was supposedly from PIN that they were calling "Red Megalanthus" (this is second hand information passed on to me when I was given the cutting) but was not for sale at the time. I wonder if it is the same plant.
Richard
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/Mega%20Red/Mega_Red-1_04-28-15_zps2ntsawak.jpg)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/Mega%20Red/Mega_Red-2_04-28-15_zpstlann0hp.jpg)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/Mega%20Red/Mega_Red-3_04-28-15_zpsdqg8s3xh.jpg)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/Mega%20Red/Mega_Red-4_04-28-15_zpsw4b4nunt.jpg)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/Mega%20Red/Mega_Red-5_04-28-15_zps1c0q7ogp.jpg)
How many lateral shoots to keep once we cut the top off?
I am seeing 12 new shoots popping, some are as low as 2 feet from the top where I cut.
Is this normal? Do I keep them all or limit them to only a few on the very top?
Or let them all grow and prune them later and use it as cuttings?
Please advice.
(http://s15.postimg.cc/me5fvkpnb/IMG_20150502_085449.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/me5fvkpnb/)
My first DF flowers of the year are about to open and I still have three yellow DF hding on the vine so there is still a slim possibility I may be able to get year round DF production. It's still going to be a while before I get fruit from these first flowers.
Simon
(http://s15.postimg.cc/h8b5j1qrr/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/h8b5j1qrr/)
How many lateral shoots to keep once we cut the top off?
I am seeing 12 new shoots popping, some are as low as 2 feet from the top where I cut.
Is this normal? Do I keep them all or limit them to only a few on the very top?
Or let them all grow and prune them later and use it as cuttings?
Please advice.
(http://s15.postimg.cc/me5fvkpnb/IMG_20150502_085449.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/me5fvkpnb/)
It's normal. I prune everything below the trellis top. Every couple months it tries to put out more shoots below the trellis but otherwise the plant will know to only produce from the top. If you want fruit soon, don't wait for them to get big and take cuttings, just prune.
I've just finished building my trellis, I think it came out quiet nice.
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/Garden/P1010413.jpg)
I've just finished building my trellis, I think it came out quiet nice.
(http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd209/sivadleoj/Garden/P1010413.jpg)
Wow, beautiful trellis, wish you lots of luck with your dragonfruit :)
My dragonfruits are growing nicely :> but I'm wondering if they need more light, since it's pretty thin
(http://s11.postimg.cc/lc7zgy91b/IMG_0843.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/lc7zgy91b/)
(http://s11.postimg.cc/64rzwlh6n/IMG_0844.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/64rzwlh6n/)
I also noticed this one is 2-sided, should I remove it and keep the bottom, or let it be? :)
(http://s7.postimg.cc/mqmovvjo7/IMG_0845.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/mqmovvjo7/)
Waterfall,
If you have not tried the selenicereus megalanthus, then I would hold off planting this out. Many people, myself included, find the taste odd and generally not nice. If yours is the mega x White hylocereus, it will taste exactly the same as the white variety--which is to say, very bland. The yellow mega is also not a very good pollinator--at all.
The purples are the best, followed closely by the reds, which are trailed quite a way by the whites. I have one of the largest collections in Australia now, and can sell you some better varieties if you wish.
Your trellis system will work--but be careful with that treated pine. Because dragonfruit are epiphytes (kinda) they will absorb the nasty chemicals in the wood. I am currently moving into farming them, and have recently learned that you cannot get organic certified if they are grown on treated pine trellises. Those pots are a great size, but I think you should elevate them to stop them pooling water; standing water will absolutely kill your plants. If you don't want to do this, lay down a few inches of gravel at the bottom of each pot. Crossbeams joining the 'roof' will save you a lot pain down the track; young, heavy shoots have a tendency to snap unless supported. This can happen without you noticing--these partially attached limbs will not appear dead, but will not grow.
I recommend planting out both your reds and the white for pollination. Ditch the yellow. There's more than enough space for three plants.
Waterfall,
If you have not tried the selenicereus megalanthus, then I would hold off planting this out. Many people, myself included, find the taste odd and generally not nice. If yours is the mega x White hylocereus, it will taste exactly the same as the white variety--which is to say, very bland. The yellow mega is also not a very good pollinator--at all.
The purples are the best, followed closely by the reds, which are trailed quite a way by the whites. I have one of the largest collections in Australia now, and can sell you some better varieties if you wish.
Your trellis system will work--but be careful with that treated pine. Because dragonfruit are epiphytes (kinda) they will absorb the nasty chemicals in the wood. I am currently moving into farming them, and have recently learned that you cannot get organic certified if they are grown on treated pine trellises. Those pots are a great size, but I think you should elevate them to stop them pooling water; standing water will absolutely kill your plants. If you don't want to do this, lay down a few inches of gravel at the bottom of each pot. Crossbeams joining the 'roof' will save you a lot pain down the track; young, heavy shoots have a tendency to snap unless supported. This can happen without you noticing--these partially attached limbs will not appear dead, but will not grow.
I recommend planting out both your reds and the white for pollination. Ditch the yellow. There's more than enough space for three plants.
I am going to assume by purple you mean the pink ones, and red is the blood ones?
Thanks! Yep, it's the same LED you recommended for me about a month ago. The Mars Hydro on eBay. I'm using Mylar survival jackets (~80%) on the corner walls and floor where the cactus is setup. Came close to a complete tent but so far this is working out well. I plan on improving the reflectivity part soon. Maybe make a partition or divider where I can isolate during certain periods.
My dream of Dragonfruit year round may become a reality. I still have three Yellow Dragonfruit holding from last year and this years crop has set fruit. I sampled a Yellow Dragonfruit about two weeks ago and the quality of the fruit has not diminished, yet. My Simons Purple is always my first to ripen so I'll report back when the first one is ripe. Hopefully the Yellow will still be edible.
Simon
(http://s9.postimg.cc/5bp6dpnu3/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5bp6dpnu3/)
(http://s9.postimg.cc/pufh51cdn/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/pufh51cdn/)
Hello Harry, that is not my largest Yellow, they get a little larger than that. This is the normal sized Yellow Dragon, not the large fruited selection. I have multiple seedlings of the large fruiting variety growing out now but it will be a while before they will produce any fruit.Simon, I just picked up two small cuttings of a Yellow Dragon from Ecuador, the fruit is supposed to be huge. It will be a few years to get fruit also. My first to fruit are the Houghton and am getting flowers on most of the other 10-15 varieties now.
My Yellow Dragon produced a lot of fruit this year and I noticed the fruit that grew singly were much larger than the fruit grown in clusters of two and three in close proximity. I gave my DF vines some drought stress and also gave them a bloom type fertilizer in winter for regular DF and late Summer for the Yellows before blooms formed and I believe this increased my numbers of blooms and ultimately fruit. I also give them kelp emulsion and Azomite to replenish nutrients lost from watering and plant use.
Simon
Hello Harry, that is not my largest Yellow, they get a little larger than that. This is the normal sized Yellow Dragon, not the large fruited selection. I have multiple seedlings of the large fruiting variety growing out now but it will be a while before they will produce any fruit.
Hello Harry, that is not my largest Yellow, they get a little larger than that. This is the normal sized Yellow Dragon, not the large fruited selection. I have multiple seedlings of the large fruiting variety growing out now but it will be a while before they will produce any fruit.Simon, I just picked up two small cuttings of a Yellow Dragon from Ecuador, the fruit is supposed to be huge. It will be a few years to get fruit also. My first to fruit are the Houghton and am getting flowers on most of the other 10-15 varieties now.
My Yellow Dragon produced a lot of fruit this year and I noticed the fruit that grew singly were much larger than the fruit grown in clusters of two and three in close proximity. I gave my DF vines some drought stress and also gave them a bloom type fertilizer in winter for regular DF and late Summer for the Yellows before blooms formed and I believe this increased my numbers of blooms and ultimately fruit. I also give them kelp emulsion and Azomite to replenish nutrients lost from watering and plant use.
Simon
Harry, I wonder if it's the growing condition of your muck soil that is causing the small size of your fruit. My smallest fruit from this same vine was the size of a golfball and the flesh was half of that. My plants are in large fabric pots and I give my plants plenty of water and organic fertilizers along with some chemical fertilizers.
Simon
Newby on dragonfruit. I have a handle on the trellis, plenty of good examples on this thread. Do they eat as many nutrients as banana? I know they like to be watered often with a good mulch layer on top. But...
Soil type- I have sandy soil here in Central FL, should I replace the planting area with some HD top soil and black kow or just leave it sandy?
Sun- In the pics I see people's in open sun, but have read they are understory plants. I am in 9b, it gets 100+ in the summer here. Do I plant them in the open or plant them under some oaks. There isn't a lot of middle ground on my property.
Harry, I wonder if it's the growing condition of your muck soil that is causing the small size of your fruit. My smallest fruit from this same vine was the size of a golfball and the flesh was half of that. My plants are in large fabric pots and I give my plants plenty of water and organic fertilizers along with some chemical fertilizers.
Simon
Actually, you may have something there. My Yellow is growing mainly up in a tamarind tree. Growing sort of like an epiphyte. There is a pot at the base of the tree which holds the original plant. I need to check out the roots to see. Maybe mine are just a good example of poor growing culture. Thanks for the suggestion and information.
Actually, from my observations, my Yellow seems much less epiphytic than most of my other dragon fruit. The tree is supporting the growing plant but there does not seem to be the amount of root attachment that I see in other dragon fruit. Also, since this tamarind tree was a supposedly sweet fruit bearing tamarind from Lara, it is anything but sweet and if it eventually blows over I will not be unhappy. I have another larger tamarind tree that provides all the sour tamarind fruit a person could possibly need. Now the tiny yellow dragon fruit......that is making me unhappy.
To prevent sunburn, should I plant the DF on the north or south facing part of the 4x4 pole I plan on using?
(http://s15.postimg.cc/zah9dm8vb/rampant_hylocereus.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/zah9dm8vb/)
(http://s15.postimg.cc/zah9dm8vb/rampant_hylocereus.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/zah9dm8vb/)
You really think I haven't seen such a sight before? Well you're right, I haven't. Quite impressive.
Starling.....looks like Ricshaw one upped you. I have a an over grown dragon fruit planting in one of the original trees on my property. We call the tree a Silk Oak. Now that I look it up, its Grevillea robusta and surprisingly, its an Australian native. See, I learned something new again today. Anyway, its an interesting tree as a host for dragon fruit. I'll post some pics later. Otherwise, the tree makes some nice blooms but also makes a mess and produces nothing edible.
I took this picture on Maui last January.Wow! It's like kudzu, except tastier.
I think my purchased-from-Lowes-from-LaVerne dragonfruit is about ready for trellising, so I built this:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/DragonfruitTrellis.jpg)
The bottom of the top crossbar (or the top of the bottom crossbar) is 6' off the ground. Don't look too closely at the diagonal braces; I did a _horrible_, ugly job with those. Should I wrap the main post with burlap to give the aerial roots something to attach to?
Is that pot big enough (http://www.homedepot.com/p/PR-Imports-19-in-Round-Terra-Cotta-Clay-Vase-V20P/202532448)? It's nominally 19" wide by 16" tall. If use an interior top radius of 8.5", an interior bottom radius of 6.5", and an interior height of 15" I calculate 2,666 cu inches, or about 11 gallons (http://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/geometry-solids/conicalfrustum.php).
There are two plants in the soil; the 6' one is doing fine, but the other one is growing out sideways. If I can successfully bend the existing growth upright it'll be about half the height (from the ground). If it breaks off it'll be much shorter :D
Also, I need to decide on a permanent location for this. How does one move a 6', spindly plant that has sharp spines?
pollinated these bad boys last night... excuse the poor quality photos. i took them on my tablet.
(http://i.imgur.com/gT3NAd6.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/3Bd4GGr.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/gJcOHsK.jpg)
(http://s23.postimg.cc/grdrgzzt3/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/grdrgzzt3/)
(http://s30.postimg.cc/a86rwjdwt/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/a86rwjdwt/)
Breakfast of kings. Pawpaw and Purple Haze. This was my largest Purple Haze of the season, 983gms. Very nice!
It looks a bit like the highly valued skybury red which often has a neck and thicker flesh but not always.QuoteNot sure of the exact variety. Picked it up at the local nursery labeled as a Bisexual Red. Great flavour and never a lot of seeds. Makes a great Green Papaya Salad too. As for the Purple Haze, it's probably twice the size of any of the others from the same plant but it was the last for the seasons, so it had the plant to itself.
(http://s15.postimg.cc/t2oyrapuf/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/t2oyrapuf/)
It looks like a beauty.My last dragonfruit of the season is in the fridge and it is the reliable colombian red.The best I ate this season was condor, although a few others came close and bigger yellows were at least as good as condor for flavor alone.Hang on I forgot about the H.ocamponis which really good also.
It looks a bit like the highly valued skybury red which often has a neck and thicker flesh but not always.QuoteNot sure of the exact variety. Picked it up at the local nursery labeled as a Bisexual Red. Great flavour and never a lot of seeds. Makes a great Green Papaya Salad too. As for the Purple Haze, it's probably twice the size of any of the others from the same plant but it was the last for the seasons, so it had the plant to itself.
(http://s15.postimg.cc/t2oyrapuf/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/t2oyrapuf/)
Definitely not the common red bisex, shape is wrong. Looks like a good one whatever it is.
The best I've eaten this year came from a cutting that was apparently Thomson S-8. It was a bonus in a package I received but I'm pretty sure it's not an S-8. Super tasty, great colour.
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That maroon on the alleged S8 makes it look like a condor.Colombian red is one of the best I have tried and seems to be the favourite of many people here with good sized collections.I would also describe the taste as having rose quality with rich classic dragonfruit flavors rather than melon,kiwi or grape.They are really productive and self fertile also so have great commercial potential.Very true in relation to the Rose qualities in the Columbian Supreme. The wife isn't crazy about it but it is a great fruit
I thought I'd put this up for anyone who was interested, as pictures of this variety are not easily found(imo). This is PT#7, or Paul Thomsons No.7. Solid, medium size fruit, 370gm with flavour similar but not quite as good as the Columbian Supreme. Thick stem growth with grey colouring.
The best I've eaten this year came from a cutting that was apparently Thomson S-8. It was a bonus in a package I received but I'm pretty sure it's not an S-8. Super tasty, great colour.
(http://s2.postimg.cc/6nydhao6d/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/6nydhao6d/)
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Hello, I'm new this forum and was wondering if anyone can help me out. Is there a nursery or someone with a large selection of dragon fruit to buy from here in Socal? Most nurseries here just have one variety. Thanks
Can you cross pollinate Dragon fruit with Dutchman's pipe"(Epiphyllum oxypetalum)?
they are very different species but the flowers and fruits are very similar (in fact they call the Dutchman's pipe "mini-dragonfruits" in Japan).
I think it's worth a try, what do you think?
Is that pot big enough (http://www.homedepot.com/p/PR-Imports-19-in-Round-Terra-Cotta-Clay-Vase-V20P/202532448)? It's nominally 19" wide by 16" tall. If use an interior top radius of 8.5", an interior bottom radius of 6.5", and an interior height of 15" I calculate 2,666 cu inches, or about 11 gallons (http://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/geometry-solids/conicalfrustum.php).That pot is definitely big enough to allow the plant to produce fruit, but you will need to find a way to anchor it at the base, because it will blow over otherwise--definitely. The roots form in such a way that they spread out to quite a shallow depth at first, then they start moving down towards the bottom of the pot.
The main reason I would pollinate a Dragon Fruit flower with E. oxypetalum is to increase the odds of getting fruit.so it's possible to cross pollinate those 2 species? I'm asking because a shop here is selling sets of Pink Dragon fruits / E. oxypetalum, and they say the pink dragon needs cross pollination. As I'm interrested in the pink DF I was wondering if that set is a good deal or a dead-end.
QuoteThe main reason I would pollinate a Dragon Fruit flower with E. oxypetalum is to increase the odds of getting fruit.
so it's possible to cross pollinate those 2 species? I'm asking because a shop here is selling sets of Pink Dragon fruits / E. oxypetalum, and they say the pink dragon needs cross pollination. As I'm interrested in the pink DF I was wondering if that set is a good deal or a dead-end.
I thought I'd put this up for anyone who was interested, as pictures of this variety are not easily found(imo). This is PT#7, or Paul Thomsons No.7. Solid, medium size fruit, 370gm with flavour similar but not quite as good as the Columbian Supreme. Thick stem growth with grey colouring.
That is rare! Paul Thomson said in his book that he removed it after freeze damage. Like 8-S, 7-S came from his Houghton X Rixford cross.
I think what Rannman has is the plant that Paul called #7. This is a different plant than 7-S, and the description Rannman gives matches the "#7" that I have but not 7-S.
(http://s22.postimg.cc/62snd5ocd/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/62snd5ocd/)
This is the growth on the PT#7. Thick solid stems with colouring similar to Ocamponis.
I was also thinking of valdivia roja when I saw that photo. Very good tasting small fruit but supposedly not self-fruitful.
Yes, I agree on the good pollinator point. I remember Ramiro also saying valdivia roja is a good pollen source. I think it makes more flowers. But that year it pretty much had no fruit set.
Mine hasn't produced anything yet due to neglect.
After looking at different pics of the Valdivia Roja and my PT#7, they could be twins. Very hard to tell them apart. Not sure about being self fertile as I try to cross pollinate all my varieties when possible to ensure fruit set and possibly larger fruit.
How many thorns on the V. Roja.? My PT#7 has a single small thorn on younger growth and two small thorns on mature growth.
The new growth has one thorn, then it gets two thorns, and as it gets older one thorn stays and is barely visible.After looking at different pics of the Valdivia Roja and my PT#7, they could be twins. Very hard to tell them apart. Not sure about being self fertile as I try to cross pollinate all my varieties when possible to ensure fruit set and possibly larger fruit.
How many thorns on the V. Roja.? My PT#7 has a single small thorn on younger growth and two small thorns on mature growth.
I just went out and looked at two Valdivia Roja plants... mostly single small thorns, I did find some two thorns on mature growth.
SO considering growing dragon fruit (got a good source for Natural Mystique ;D) Question, do you HAVE to let it grow so big? Can it be pruned and kept a bit more controllable? I am assuming like others, heavy pruning diminishes fruiting. Tried to find the answer on this thread, but 20 plus pages still have not found exact answer. Have learned a lot of other stuff though lol
I planted my df cuttings in 1 gallon pots, 2-3 pcs per pot... They just started growing slowly but surely, when will be the right time to repot them without damaging the newly formed roots? Should I upgrade them just one size up to 5 gal? Or their permanent 15 gal homes? Thank you so much...
I have had dragon fruit for three years, they are monsters but have never flowered, what can I do?
Mark your Calendar!
Mark your Calendar!
Thank you so much for the info. What is "field day" like? ;D
It is GREAT!!! I have posted several YouTube videos on my Dragon Fruit Playlist.
I have had dragon fruit for three years, they are monsters but have never flowered, what can I do?Try adding a large dose of Bud and Bloom fertilizer to the plants. I'd get confirmation on this first, but I hear people talking about adding "cups" worth of fertilizer, but Im not sure if that's a cup (8oz) of raw fertilizer mix or one liquid cup of BnB mixed with water according to the recommended mixing proportions. Either way, to shock mature plants into bearing fruit, use a high potassium ratio supplement.
Does everyone train the dragon fruit to climb as a single stem until it reach the top then spread? What are the considerations? Thank you so much :D
I think my purchased-from-Lowes-from-LaVerne dragonfruit is about ready for trellising, so I built this:So, 5 weeks later, I still haven't moved it, and now it's growing out its "crown":
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/DragonfruitTrellis.jpg). . .
Also, I need to decide on a permanent location for this. How does one move a 6', spindly plant that has sharp spines?
Does anyone have advice for moving an 8', spindly plant with sharp spines?
If I don't get moving on this pretty soon I'm going to be asking for advice about a 9' plant.
Hello,
I was wondering if this plant can bear fruits also in pot? how much time does it require to give the first flower?
Thanks
Thanks! The cardboard did the trick! I belted the pot onto my hand truck, taped a cardboard triangle around the plant, and successfully got it down the ramp, across the apiary, and to its permanent home:Does anyone have advice for moving an 8', spindly plant with sharp spines?The problem is you got started off on the wrong foot. You should have planted it in a large pot on wheels with an attached shorter trellis and only allowed the top to reach 4 - 5 feet tall.
Now, if you only want to move it to a permanent location, I would wrap the spindly plant in a roll of cardboard and carefully move the pot to its new location.
I have 10 DF in 15 gallon containers, with trellises. I have a question. I noticed today the one with the largest segment, probably 18" long and almost as thick as my forearm was starting to rot so I cut it off. The rooting segment plus the three sprouting from this big one look perfectly fine. Its the only container I have that's in morning shade only, the rest are in filtered sun all day long(it's 100-120 degrees here during the summer). I never moved it with the others because it was growing so big right where it was. Since it's in the shade I sparsely water it compared to the others.Was the 'rotting' area turning a sort of honey yellow, and a bit mushy? Possibly centered around a thorn point and spreading out length-wise in both directions? That sort of rot is usually caused by a bacterial infection in the soft tissue of the plant. It can work is way in under a thorn, or through branches banging against each other and piercing their skin with other thorns. I do not know the type of bacteria this is, or its source of spreading from plant to plant, but it somewhat common at my house, on certain species. On newer branches I cut away the entire stem, but on older growth I can successfully remove the infected tissue with a sharp knife and wash the infected area clean with a garden hose on a strong jet setting. As long as you wash away the affected tissue and peel away any remaining loose skin from the area, exposure to the air will dry up and harden the remaining exposed tissue and the plant will keep going strong. Remember, as long as the central, wooden core of the branch remains intact, the plant will have no problem supporting living tissue further up the line.
Do you think the fact that it spends so much time in the shade has anything to do with it rotting? And why might you guess the other segments look fine, but the biggest and greenest of them all is the one that got sick?
I have 10 DF in 15 gallon containers, with trellises. I have a question. I noticed today the one with the largest segment, probably 18" long and almost as thick as my forearm was starting to rot so I cut it off. The rooting segment plus the three sprouting from this big one look perfectly fine. Its the only container I have that's in morning shade only, the rest are in filtered sun all day long(it's 100-120 degrees here during the summer). I never moved it with the others because it was growing so big right where it was. Since it's in the shade I sparsely water it compared to the others.Was the 'rotting' area turning a sort of honey yellow, and a bit mushy? Possibly centered around a thorn point and spreading out length-wise in both directions? That sort of rot is usually caused by a bacterial infection in the soft tissue of the plant. It can work is way in under a thorn, or through branches banging against each other and piercing their skin with other thorns. I do not know the type of bacteria this is, or its source of spreading from plant to plant, but it somewhat common at my house, on certain species. On newer branches I cut away the entire stem, but on older growth I can successfully remove the infected tissue with a sharp knife and wash the infected area clean with a garden hose on a strong jet setting. As long as you wash away the affected tissue and peel away any remaining loose skin from the area, exposure to the air will dry up and harden the remaining exposed tissue and the plant will keep going strong. Remember, as long as the central, wooden core of the branch remains intact, the plant will have no problem supporting living tissue further up the line.
Do you think the fact that it spends so much time in the shade has anything to do with it rotting? And why might you guess the other segments look fine, but the biggest and greenest of them all is the one that got sick?
Now, as a side note, other conditions that can kill the tissue can also bring on this bacterial condition. If you have a branch that gets separated from the main plant or a whole plant that the root system goes into shutdown, the bacteria can start to consume the tissue as it dies, which can radically increase its spread. Its always best to deal with infections as soon as you find them. Even something as simple as poking a finger through a soft area to let the air in can change the course of a bout of this problem. The bacteria seems to be anaerobic, and shuts down and dries up fast when exposed to air. If you want, you can also add a anti-fungal/anti-bacterial treatment to areas once you've cleaned them, but that's a persona choice, with organic and non-organic options available.
I've seen this firsthand where a Haleys Comet plant about 2 years old started sprouting massive ammounts of new roots at the base, enough to make the plant look like it was growing in a pile of angel hair pasta.
First ever flower on my Cebra dragon fruit opening tonight.
A friend with a huge collection of varieties including all the Matts Landscapes and PIN nursery types,locally bred and Asian lines, is suddenly hacking out maybe 40 varieties including most of the famous hybrids. He is retaining only those proven to be self fertile in his environment so more than half the varieties are going.He is now focused on productivity and never hand pollinating again but some of the best tasting varieties are self fertile types.
Artificial lighting should have little effect on pollination due to there being very little activity normally during overnight hours, as most plants that get 'assistance' by pollinators in the US (by bees normally) happens in the early morning when the flowers are still open and the insects are getting to work. The plant is naturally pollinated by moths and bats and other night insects in its native environments, but we don't have much of those types of critters in the US, as our varieties are either day shift workers or carnivores looking for bugs, not nectar. A nighttime camera shoot should be totally doable.
As for varieties, remember, theres a difference between self fertile and self pollinating. Self pollenating generally don't require any outside assistance to create fruit and are ideal for harvest crops, but as of right now most, if not all , of those varieties are not of sufficient quality to make a spash at market, although the work continues to correct that. Self fertile, however, makes up the bulk of the plants we 'hobbiest' growers own, due to the fact that most of us don't want to end up with a pile of dead flowers because we didn't have compatible pollen in time to fertilize what our plants see fit to produce. One important thing to note though is that location and climate can make self fertile plants into self pollinating, given a few things. For example, in a breezy or windy location pollen can work its way down the inside of a flower onto the stamen by being shook loose and basically just trying to fall out. At my house, if I find a flower I managed to forget to pollinate by hand, I always give it a good jiggle in the hopes that there is some pollen left inside.
Personally, Id prefer to have a better quality fruit that took a little bit more effort than a mediocre one that was completely hands off, but that's just me.
Well, when I say 'hobbyist' I mean the more casual home growers. Those folks tend to seek out self fertile varieties, to make sure they can get fruit out of a few, or even a single plant. Anyone who takes the time to post on these sort of message boards or seek out genuine expert advice would probably fall into an "enthusiast" category. People who understand that to get some of the better fruits requires extra effort.
I made this 5 weeks ago. It was very simple to construct if anyone is interested in the supply list and instructions. I am growing Physical Grafitti and Haley's Comet. I also have American Beauty rooting in a separate pot. I have had a huge growth spurt in the last week. I am looking forward to fruit!(http://s28.postimg.cc/bkwnc2nsp/20150518_142745.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/bkwnc2nsp/)
(http://s8.postimage.org/e2rwfeudt/20120204_180151.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/e2rwfeudt/)
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Amazing to look back at this old post and see what this dragon fruit has done in a bit over 3 years!! Extremely productive with fruits as big as 1.5 lbs and brix scores as high as 18.5! :)
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What I would do differently:
1. I would have used 3 pieces of rebar to support the top platform instead of 2, one from 12 to 6, another from 9 to 3 like i did...I would add a third to support the corners better and arrange them like spokes
2. I would suggest to anyone if you're going to plant yours in a pot like I did with the post going through it into the ground.....when it gets substantial in size put supports on it to keep it from tipping over
(http://s4.postimg.cc/hz93ev79l/20150401_130057.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/hz93ev79l/)
It took 4 big strong men to upright it and we used two pieces of fence post to secure it.
3. ALL metal zip ties. I used some plastic ones as well....they deteriorated.
Are you sure about that brix reading?
@MarinFla. envy envy envy!It's a 25 gallon nursery pot, the 4x4 goes through the bottom of the pot into the ground about 1.5ft deep
what size pot are you using?
Are you sure about that brix reading?If this plant weren't being moved I have a suggestion, and that is to actually bury the pot in the ground. This allows you to have the protection of the pot's armor while keeping out aggressive root seekers, and lowers the chances of annoying tip-overs. If you have a strong back at your disposal, just dig a pot sized hole, but maybe an extra foot or two deep, then line the hole with weed blocker fabric and fill in the extra foot of depth with pure sand or fine gravel. This gives you a 'French drain' layer to help dissipate excess watering or rain. Then just place your pot and backfill.
I have a problem with my DF, there are some black spots with lots of little darker spots that looks like aphid bites on the new growth.
it happened during the night. I am sorry for the poor quality pics, anyone has an idea what it is?
(http://s27.postimg.cc/bgpsd1unj/1469988_10207196171604080_883162000847743503_n.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/bgpsd1unj/)
(http://s8.postimg.cc/qc2omwmv5/11828830_10207196171324073_3051904221699913075_n.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/qc2omwmv5/)
Ok, I'm freaking out. That thing is expanding and the more I look at it, the less it looks like some insect bites.
It looks more like the plant is sick. Could it be the water? It's hot now and I've been watering it everyday.
Here some better picsI have had this on one of my plants and it does seem to spread rapidly. All I can say is cut it out with a sterile blade while small or if it takes a whole stem, cut the whole stem off, bin it and let it reshoot. The good news is(in my case) it doesn't seem to spread to other plants, even those that are very close. Also, the original infected plant hasn't had the same problem since I cut out all of the infected area. Seems to only affect newer, softer growth. Good luck.
(http://s1.postimg.cc/ws3o45f8r/20150801_071632.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/ws3o45f8r/)
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Thank you . connie mayer varietiesIt's very beautifull! I didn't know it... :)
Thank you . connie mayer varietiesIt's very beautifull! I didn't know it... :)
Thank youPM sent ;)
you can send as a gift cuttingThank you . connie mayer varietiesIt's very beautifull! I didn't know it... :)
What happens if I take pollen from a red flesh variety and use it on a white flesh or vice versa for that matter. Would I get a pink flesh fruit?
Or, is it that the pollen does not matter where it came from and ultimately I get the mother plant fruit always?
Thanks simon, fyliu and ricshaw.
Okay, so I have to take the fruit that was cross pollinated and sow its seeds and this plant would then turn out a different colored fruit. It's not certain that the fruit would be pink, it could be anything, as you guys say. And of course plants grown from seeds are not true to their mother plant. So basically I would be creating a new color/flavor fruit.
Sounds interesting and would like to try once my plants start flowering. The long wait for the seeds to grow in to mature plants is the only down side.
Thanks simon, fyliu and ricshaw.If you are going to experiment with cross breeding, my suggestion to start out with would be volume, especially if you are going to be crossing radically differing species, like a yellow and red. Cross your fruit, let them mature and then harvest ALL the seeds. Spread them out over large areas, like baking pans or similar large surface areas, and wait for them to grow. Watch how the seedlings mature and keep an eye out for characteristics of the new shoots. After a few weeks to months, you should be able to distinguish between species. For example, if you were trying to grow pink fruit with the sweetness of yellow, you might want to eliminate most yellow shoots once you know which they are, so you don't get caught in the yellow megalanthus's 180 ripening cycle. This will cut your observation crop down quite a bit. THen just keep looking for abnormalities in the maturing plants. A pink branched plant that matures with the thorns from a yellow (as an example) might end up being an entirely new species, and something to consider paying favor to. Of course, the new plants might make entirely new fruit without showing a single variation in structure from the parent species, which just goes to show the importance of experimental breeding and is a testament to the effort and work the people who do this sort of thing put into this.
Okay, so I have to take the fruit that was cross pollinated and sow its seeds and this plant would then turn out a different colored fruit. It's not certain that the fruit would be pink, it could be anything, as you guys say. And of course plants grown from seeds are not true to their mother plant. So basically I would be creating a new color/flavor fruit.
Sounds interesting and would like to try once my plants start flowering. The long wait for the seeds to grow in to mature plants is the only down side.
If you are going to experiment with cross breeding, my suggestion to start out with would be volume, especially if you are going to be crossing radically differing species, like a yellow and red. Cross your fruit, let them mature and then harvest ALL the seeds. Spread them out over large areas, like baking pans or similar large surface areas, and wait for them to grow. Watch how the seedlings mature and keep an eye out for characteristics of the new shoots. After a few weeks to months, you should be able to distinguish between species. For example, if you were trying to grow pink fruit with the sweetness of yellow, you might want to eliminate most yellow shoots once you know which they are, so you don't get caught in the yellow megalanthus's 180 ripening cycle. This will cut your observation crop down quite a bit. THen just keep looking for abnormalities in the maturing plants. A pink branched plant that matures with the thorns from a yellow (as an example) might end up being an entirely new species, and something to consider paying favor to. Of course, the new plants might make entirely new fruit without showing a single variation in structure from the parent species, which just goes to show the importance of experimental breeding and is a testament to the effort and work the people who do this sort of thing put into this.
First ever flower on my Cebra dragon fruit opening tonight.Today.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/Cebra/Cebra_07-17-15_zpsthj3xtzr.jpg)
First ever flower on my Cebra dragon fruit opening tonight.Today.
DM
Here is an update on my yellow DF. This is the first year it fruited for me and these first two fruit are not that large. I'm hoping they will get larger next year. I wonder if they would be larger if the two didn't grow right next to each other? There is another green fruit on another branch that appears to be larger than these and there are another three flowers about to open. These two fruit still have some green on them but are mostly yellow, do you think they are ready to harvest or will they taste better if I leave them until they are completely yellow?
Simon
(http://s28.postimg.cc/x8palj28p/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/x8palj28p/)
Sandy, I assume you mean SF Bay. How's the weather there? Any really hot or really cold days in the year?
I hear yellow dragon is more sensitive than the more common type. You might want to also get a white self fruiting type and a red fleshed type so you can decide which ones you like when they start fruiting. Also just in case one doesn't make it.
Give them as much light as you can without them getting burnt. Time to flower will vary from 1 to 5 years, 3 is normal for sunny socal. They grow faster in warm weather and slower in cooler weather. Don't water when they stop growing in the winter or they could rot. Good luck.
Sandy, I assume you mean SF Bay. How's the weather there? Any really hot or really cold days in the year?
I hear yellow dragon is more sensitive than the more common type. You might want to also get a white self fruiting type and a red fleshed type so you can decide which ones you like when they start fruiting. Also just in case one doesn't make it.
Give them as much light as you can without them getting burnt. Time to flower will vary from 1 to 5 years, 3 is normal for sunny socal. They grow faster in warm weather and slower in cooler weather. Don't water when they stop growing in the winter or they could rot. Good luck.
From a personal standpoint, Ive given up on the yellow megalanthus variety of dragonfruit. Its frustrating to grow and often doesn't yield large fruit in any sort of quantity. Its true that it is a VERY sweet variety, but the ones that grow for me are JUST sweet, not really flavorful. It's like comparing orange juice to a glass of sugar water; sure the sugar is sweeter, but the OJ is tastier. Im not pulling out my existing yellows, but Im sure not going to be sad if they peter out. Perhaps its the climate where I live that's lowering their quality, that I really don't know, but I do know Ive got a longe]
Rob
It sucks to hear that such a wonderful fruit lack flavor and size for you. I heard you can get bigger size by grafting the yellow onto a red variety. I might try that if my yellow survives the winter and when I prune off the side vines off of my red variety to train it into a single stem. That'll probably take a few years. Hopefully I can take a cutting naext year off my red.
Do you mind telling me what your climate is in your area?
Do anyone think that my dragon fruit is getting too much sun? They are hit by sun from noon till 7. The reason is that the new growth on one of my dragon fruits is not as green as the older stems. I just planted this a little over a month ago. But the new shoots look healthy and thick. Not skinny or spindly at all. Thanks in advance!
Do anyone think that my dragon fruit is getting too much sun? They are hit by sun from noon till 7. The reason is that the new growth on one of my dragon fruits is not as green as the older stems. I just planted this a little over a month ago. But the new shoots look healthy and thick. Not skinny or spindly at all. Thanks in advance!
I can't see the picture. I doubt that it is getting too much sun.
this is my some what "portable" ::) dragon fruit setup that I started in the spring.
(http://s17.postimg.cc/nznfe9b4r/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/nznfe9b4r/)Do anyone think that my dragon fruit is getting too much sun? They are hit by sun from noon till 7. The reason is that the new growth on one of my dragon fruits is not as green as the older stems. I just planted this a little over a month ago. But the new shoots look healthy and thick. Not skinny or spindly at all. Thanks in advance!
I can't see the picture. I doubt that it is getting too much sun.
Sorry for the side way view. I took the pictures with my phone and didn't know it would come out sideways.
You have your plant in the ground? Some people put them in pots and half bury the pots. It helps with gopher and rotting problems.
You can also subscribe to the pitayafruit yahoo list and ask questions there. Dragon fruit discussion is more active there. The archive section also has interesting information about growing it and supplementing light for growers that don't get enough light hours during the off season but still want to push for fruit.
Also, I'm not seeing the yellow dragonfruit picture. The last picture IS the third picture which is the same plant as the first one. They all look like white fleshed fruit plants, maybe pink.
Sorry for the side way view. I took the pictures with my phone and didn't know it would come out sideways.
It is a problem with Postimg.
(http://s18.postimg.cc/7jbnrykfp/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/7jbnrykfp/)
(http://s18.postimg.cc/d680pfmyd/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/d680pfmyd/)
Ok, I finally got the pictures posted in the correct position. First picture is the red variety and second picture is the yellow
Yeah, I was looking at that photo too. Somehow, Sandy's plant doesn't look like the yellow dragonfruit to me. Maybe because it's not fully mature yet. I thought it was some kind of pink skin white flesh one.
(http://s18.postimg.cc/7jbnrykfp/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/7jbnrykfp/)
(http://s18.postimg.cc/d680pfmyd/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/d680pfmyd/)
Ok, I finally got the pictures posted in the correct position. First picture is the red variety and second picture is the yellow
Too many thorns IMO!!
(https://toptropicals.com/pics/garden/09/h3/P4250702.jpg)
This is what too much sun looks like on an S-8...
(http://s12.postimg.cc/ymcot8tfd/First_733.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/ymcot8tfd/)
The addition of iron supplement to the soil can help alleviate the yellowing a bit, which is basically a bleaching of the chlorophyll in the plants branches.
Im no so sure that second plant is a yellow, the thorns aren't right and the scalloping isn't deep enough. It might be a yellow producing hybrid, or possibly another red with a Costaricensis parentage. It's a little hard to tell with some species as the thorn pattern can change as they age, but even young yellow branches have that same mostly single woody thorn, similar to a rose. A little more time should tell though.
(http://s18.postimg.cc/7jbnrykfp/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/7jbnrykfp/)
(http://s18.postimg.cc/d680pfmyd/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/d680pfmyd/)
Ok, I finally got the pictures posted in the correct position. First picture is the red variety and second picture is the yellow
Im no so sure that second plant is a yellow, the thorns aren't right and the scalloping isn't deep enough. It might be a yellow producing hybrid, or possibly another red with a Costaricensis parentage. It's a little hard to tell with some species as the thorn pattern can change as they age, but even young yellow branches have that same mostly single woody thorn, similar to a rose. A little more time should tell though.
(http://s18.postimg.cc/7jbnrykfp/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/7jbnrykfp/)
(http://s18.postimg.cc/d680pfmyd/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/d680pfmyd/)
Ok, I finally got the pictures posted in the correct position. First picture is the red variety and second picture is the yellow
I'm new to this forum and have just recently goiton into growing dragon fruit. I too have the yellow dragon. I live in the east bay in CA. I was wondering how long have you had your yellow dragon before it fruited for you? I heard it's really hard to get it fruit and I can't deal with such a disappointment cause I really want to try this amazing variety.
I'm new to this forum and have just recently goiton into growing dragon fruit. I too have the yellow dragon. I live in the east bay in CA. I was wondering how long have you had your yellow dragon before it fruited for you? I heard it's really hard to get it fruit and I can't deal with such a disappointment cause I really want to try this amazing variety.
Just curious, why do you think it is an amazing variety?
Just curious, why do you think it is an amazing variety?
I just heard lots of good stuff about this specific variety especially watching those videos on YouTube. I like sweet fruit and since I heard it's the sweetest dragon fruit of all and that other varietys especially the white flesh one isn't as sweet, I just really wanted to give it a try and see for myself. Some people were describing it as sweet with a note of Logan flavor and I love longans. And because not a lot of people grow them. And about every blog or video I've come across, people were raving about the yellow dragon. But now after finding newer varieties like Thompson s8, I might have a change of mind once I get to try the fruits.
Oh and if you don't mind me asking, which variety is your favorite?
Just curious, why do you think it is an amazing variety?
I just heard lots of good stuff about this specific variety especially watching those videos on YouTube. I like sweet fruit and since I heard it's the sweetest dragon fruit of all and that other varietys especially the white flesh one isn't as sweet, I just really wanted to give it a try and see for myself. Some people were describing it as sweet with a note of Logan flavor and I love longans. And because not a lot of people grow them. And about every blog or video I've come across, people were raving about the yellow dragon. But now after finding newer varieties like Thompson s8, I might have a change of mind once I get to try the fruits.
Oh and if you don't mind me asking, which variety is your favorite?
It is not yellow Megalanthus. I like Delight, Physical Graffiti, Armando, S-8 (AKA Sugar Dragon), and Sin Espinas.
You are not alone, because of the high BRIX readings, the demand for Megalanthus cuttings is very high.
I have never tasted Megalanthus … I would like to taste it, but there are reasons I have not tasted it. Some of the reasons are below:
Besides the thorns, in UCCE studies at the farm in Irvine, California, Megalanthus scores the lowest of 20 varieties in the collection in "cold hardiness", "heat tolerance", "average fruit size", "market weight/plant", plus the longest "Days to Harvest"; 150 - 180 days compared to 38 - 45 days for other Dragon Fruit varieties.
Someday, I hope somebody will have some ripe Megalanthus I can taste.
I am glad that you have Megalanthus and are growing it and can share your experience growing it.
great chart.
does anyone know where Purple Haze would fall on it ?
as far as heat and cold tolerance, also brix ?
I'm not sure why we don't import these. Are some of those places considered state sponsors of terror or what-not?The fruit itself looks like a dangerous, spiky grenade.
You don't have to go to Hawaii for yellow dragon fruit. Canada imports them from Columbia. I tasted some from Toronto Chinatown in 2008 and it was pretty good despite having been shipped that far. The white fleshed one looked really large and plump too but were bland.Although probably not as sweet, bland tasting, and white fleshed... I find the Yellow Undatus much more interesting.
Maybe try Chinatown in other cities?
I'm not sure why we don't import these. Are some of those places considered state sponsors of terror or what-not?
There's a number of confused people starting out wanting to get this yellow H. undatus for the looks and choose to believe that it's the very sweet yellow dragon fruit talked about in other places.
Worst is eBay has seeds of this yellow variety and there's no telling what the resulting fruit will look like.
And when it comes to growing Dragon Fruit... you do not want "seeds".
DF cuttings is the best (only) way!
Rickshaw, did it have high acidity? If so maybe it is Lisa?
Simon
And when it comes to growing Dragon Fruit... you do not want "seeds".
DF cuttings is the best (only) way!
Is there any part of a purchased fruit that can be propagated vegetatively?
They are bigger than what i found in Italy market....they seem very tasty too.
How old does the plant take to bear fruit starting from seed?
You don't have to go to Hawaii for yellow dragon fruit. Canada imports them from Columbia. I tasted some from Toronto Chinatown in 2008 and it was pretty good despite having been shipped that far. The white fleshed one looked really large and plump too but were bland.
Maybe try Chinatown in other cities?
I'm not sure why we don't import these. Are some of those places considered state sponsors of terror or what-not?
Yesterday I picked these two red flesh un-named Dragon Fruit.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/lowes_5476_zpsqffchk2w.jpg)
This is another Dragon Fruit from the same plant.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/lowes_1637_zpsttj0on7b.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/lowes_1642_zps60f5mawz.jpg)
I heard anywhere from 3-5 years but seeds don't always grow true to the parent especially if the fruit you got it from is a hybrid.
I heard anywhere from 3-5 years but seeds don't always grow true to the parent especially if the fruit you got it from is a hybrid.
A seed gets half of its genetics from the plant that produces the flower... and half of it genetics from the plant that contributed the pollen (another plant flower).
So a seed will never be an exact 'clone' of the fruit it came from.
Corrections and comments welcomed.
For "normal" plants the ovule and the pollen come from the same species/cultivar, so although the child seeds have a mix of genes, the genes aren't normally different enough to create something very different from either parent. Except for random mutations, etc.
So, 11 months later, my DF looks like this!For those who do not live on the West Coast, this is what the Dragon Fruit plant looked like when I bought it from Lowe's.Looks a lot like the one I bought from Lowe's yesterday! But yours appears to have three plants in the pot, whereas mine has only two.
<image snipped>
Mine has the identical La Verne pot wrap that yours does.
The hanging tag on my plant does _not_ say "does not need a pollinator," but I'm presuming that if it's sold as "grow your own, enjoy your harvest" that it would either be self pollinating _or_ contain a warning of some sort. The sticker on my hanging tag does say "Dragon Fruit Pink #2 $14.98" like yours, except $5 bucks cheaper :D
Correct.
Mine has the identical La Verne pot wrap that yours does.
~snip~
So can I reasonably expect to get fruit from mine next season? ricshaw, have you been happy with your La Verne plant(s)? If I'm parsing this thread correctly the beautiful red fruit from last page are from your La Verne "Red." Is that correct?
Note: Tag says "does not need pollinator". In my experience it needs pollen from an unrelated plant, but would not need "hand pollination" if there is plenty of bees . . .
I got plenty of flowers the third year (over 36) from my La Verne red flesh variety, but hardly any fruit (only a couple), because of no unrelated source of pollen.
This year I am having much better luck with getting fruit because I have unrelated flowers at the same time to cross pollenate.
Now that I have plenty of named Dragon Fruit varieties, I was going to get rid of all my La Verne Dragon Fruit plants (white, pink, & red flesh varieties).
I changed my mind and decided to keep my La Verne red flesh variety because I like the fruit.
Are you hand-pollinating? Or do you have bees? :
I have bees 15' away from my La Verne Pink, but I only have the one plant and its clones. Actually I had two plants in the pot when I bought it, so there's some slim possibility that I have more than one genetic source, but given what you wrote about La Verne cloning from just 3 plants, they're probably identical.
They are bigger than what i found in Italy market....they seem very tasty too.
How old does the plant take to bear fruit starting from seed?
I heard anywhere from 3-5 years but seeds don't always grow true to the parent especially if the fruit you got it from is a hybrid.
They are bigger than what i found in Italy market....they seem very tasty too.
How old does the plant take to bear fruit starting from seed?
I heard anywhere from 3-5 years but seeds don't always grow true to the parent especially if the fruit you got it from is a hybrid.
Thanks....my plants are two years old, I hope to have at least flowers the next year.....here we are in 8a or even worse, so I keep them inside home from Nov to Apr... :)
Oh I heard that the plant needs to be at least 10 pounds to bear fruit and it's best to train it as a single stem on a trellis to about 5-6 feet and then let the vines dropp down thus forming the umbrella shape. And if your plant is self sterile, it needs another pollinator also.
Yes, there's an age factor for a particular segment to flower. Current season's growth cannot flower. It's not hardened and has not built up on nutrients and other stuff(hormones). 2nd to 4th year old growth have the highest chance of flowering. It declines with age as well, which is why growers trim off older segments from the umbrella shape. The shape makes it easier to prune: just cut back to the center.I have to disagree with the " current seasons growth cannot flower" theory. I am able to get a lot of my early season growth to flower on most plants every season. It's possible to get them to flower by letting the earlier growth reach a decent size and then break the tip off to allow the entire branch to thicken up and harden off. I'm not saying you will get masses of flowers but I'm sure you will get some if your season is long enough.
I have one white fleshed plant in a 1 gal pot for 5 years and it's not flowered, so age is just one of several factors I think. Another 2nd year Arizona Purple segment flowered and fruited right after I cut it and put it in a 1 gal pot. That's what Rob is talking about with the cellular age.
Yes, there's an age factor for a particular segment to flower. Current season's growth cannot flower. It's not hardened and has not built up on nutrients and other stuff(hormones). 2nd to 4th year old growth have the highest chance of flowering. It declines with age as well, which is why growers trim off older segments from the umbrella shape. The shape makes it easier to prune: just cut back to the center.I have to disagree with the " current seasons growth cannot flower" theory. I am able to get a lot of my early season growth to flower on most plants every season. It's possible to get them to flower by letting the earlier growth reach a decent size and then break the tip off to allow the entire branch to thicken up and harden off. I'm not saying you will get masses of flowers but I'm sure you will get some if your season is long enough.
I have one white fleshed plant in a 1 gal pot for 5 years and it's not flowered, so age is just one of several factors I think. Another 2nd year Arizona Purple segment flowered and fruited right after I cut it and put it in a 1 gal pot. That's what Rob is talking about with the cellular age.
It's interesting that it flowers for you so soon. How many months old would you estimate the early flowering segments are?Yes, there's an age factor for a particular segment to flower. Current season's growth cannot flower. It's not hardened and has not built up on nutrients and other stuff(hormones). 2nd to 4th year old growth have the highest chance of flowering. It declines with age as well, which is why growers trim off older segments from the umbrella shape. The shape makes it easier to prune: just cut back to the center.I have to disagree with the " current seasons growth cannot flower" theory. I am able to get a lot of my early season growth to flower on most plants every season. It's possible to get them to flower by letting the earlier growth reach a decent size and then break the tip off to allow the entire branch to thicken up and harden off. I'm not saying you will get masses of flowers but I'm sure you will get some if your season is long enough.
I have one white fleshed plant in a 1 gal pot for 5 years and it's not flowered, so age is just one of several factors I think. Another 2nd year Arizona Purple segment flowered and fruited right after I cut it and put it in a 1 gal pot. That's what Rob is talking about with the cellular age.
Same here.
I have 8 pots with 21 months old and this season I got 15 flowers. Flower buds were more than 30. Around 80% of them were in this year cuttings. I guess the local conditions are a big factor for the plant "decisions".
Yes, there's an age factor for a particular segment to flower. Current season's growth cannot flower. It's not hardened and has not built up on nutrients and other stuff(hormones). 2nd to 4th year old growth have the highest chance of flowering. It declines with age as well, which is why growers trim off older segments from the umbrella shape. The shape makes it easier to prune: just cut back to the center.I have to disagree with the " current seasons growth cannot flower" theory. I am able to get a lot of my early season growth to flower on most plants every season. It's possible to get them to flower by letting the earlier growth reach a decent size and then break the tip off to allow the entire branch to thicken up and harden off. I'm not saying you will get masses of flowers but I'm sure you will get some if your season is long enough.
I have one white fleshed plant in a 1 gal pot for 5 years and it's not flowered, so age is just one of several factors I think. Another 2nd year Arizona Purple segment flowered and fruited right after I cut it and put it in a 1 gal pot. That's what Rob is talking about with the cellular age.
How many months old would you estimate the early flowering segments are?
Oh I heard that the plant needs to be at least 10 pounds to bear fruit and it's best to train it as a single stem on a trellis to about 5-6 feet and then let the vines dropp down thus forming the umbrella shape. And if your plant is self sterile, it needs another pollinator also.
The train to single stem 5-6 feet tall may be 'best' for commercial Dragon Fruit farm and some home hobbyists, but not best for every grower.
Okay to train a single stem to only 2 ft. high. Also okay to grow Dragon Fuit like grape vine on trellis.
Home hobbyist growing Dragon Fruit in small pot may have problems training stem 6 ft. tall (top heavy).
Yes, there's an age factor for a particular segment to flower. Current season's growth cannot flower. It's not hardened and has not built up on nutrients and other stuff(hormones). 2nd to 4th year old growth have the highest chance of flowering. It declines with age as well, which is why growers trim off older segments from the umbrella shape. The shape makes it easier to prune: just cut back to the center.I have to disagree with the " current seasons growth cannot flower" theory. I am able to get a lot of my early season growth to flower on most plants every season. It's possible to get them to flower by letting the earlier growth reach a decent size and then break the tip off to allow the entire branch to thicken up and harden off. I'm not saying you will get masses of flowers but I'm sure you will get some if your season is long enough.
I have one white fleshed plant in a 1 gal pot for 5 years and it's not flowered, so age is just one of several factors I think. Another 2nd year Arizona Purple segment flowered and fruited right after I cut it and put it in a 1 gal pot. That's what Rob is talking about with the cellular age.
I've heard of people cutting the tips off and having flowers on those segments.
(http://s16.postimg.cc/anke1tz5t/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/anke1tz5t/)
Can someone explain why this is happening. I have planted a purple haze cutting which already had roots when it arrived to me about a month ago. And about 2 weeks ago, I planted a s8 cutting with no roots. The purple haze is showing no signs of new growth except that I do know it's growing new roots because I'm guilty of moving it around a couple times. I have it planted in a mound in the garden. The s8 is planted in a pot and I think it's already showing signs of a new vine coming out. The tiny little nub on the top right of the cutting shown in the picture.
Why is it the s8 with no roots as far as I know is showing new growth where as the purple haze which came already rooted is showing no signs of growth? Should I be worried about the purple haze cutting?
Does is has something to do with the maturity of the cutting? Food that is stored in the cutting itself? I do think the s8 cutting is more mature than the purple haze though, just a guess by the looks.
Or is it because one is potted and one is in the ground? Should I pot up?
Not all cuttings act the same. Some start new top growth right away, some start only roots right away, and some can take over 6 months to do anything. Cutting maturity is important. Be patient.
I never heard of that Dragon Fruit variety behavior before: "the thorns drop off when the fruit ripens;" cool!Here's a link to their web page on Selenicereus megalanthus (http://toptropicals.com/catalog/uid/selenicereus_megalanthus.htm).
I never heard of that Dragon Fruit variety behavior before: "the thorns drop off when the fruit ripens;" cool!
Don't know if anybody else has had same drama but I had a new shoot on my dragonfruit cutting and a bloody slug got up the top of the cutting and hoed into the new shoot, you can see the slime trail inbetween the spines on the shoot. Sneaky little bastards.
And sometime's it's just random. I potted cuttings from my La Verne pink, giving one to my mom and keeping 4. All 4 of mine started growing immediately, and some of them have tripled in size.
wish we could make the picture bigger
Pitahaya Fruit (Dragon Fruit) varieties on display today at UC Hansen Agricultural Research Center in Santa Paula, CA.
Special Pitahaya/Dragon Fruit Field Day.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/DF_Panorama_zps4cn1pbwp.jpg)
Or you could be careless while tying them to your post and break off the tip unintentionally. That's about 3' shorter than it's supposed to be. Grrrr.:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/DragonFruitBrokenTip.jpg)
Now I see thicker/darker veins going to those sites. One of these days (when I have excess plant material) I'm going to dissect a piece and see what it looks like inside.
(http://s17.postimg.cc/9huycmocb/20150119_180313_resized.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/9huycmocb/)
Here's what a fresh core looks like
I never heard of that Dragon Fruit variety behavior before: "the thorns drop off when the fruit ripens;" cool!Here's a link to their web page on Selenicereus megalanthus (http://toptropicals.com/catalog/uid/selenicereus_megalanthus.htm).
I picked up one of these during the Foothill CRFG's field trip to La Verne Nursery in Fillmore:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/LaVerneYellow.jpg)
What did you learn about La Verne Dragon Fruit?
He also said that, in discussions with Edgar about the varieties, that there really are only about 5 genetically different strains of DF, which one reason why he hasn't bothered to try and figure out the pedigree of his plants. They're just La Verne Red, La Verne White, and La Verne Pink.
He also said that, in discussions with Edgar about the varieties, that there really are only about 5 genetically different strains of DF, which one reason why he hasn't bothered to try and figure out the pedigree of his plants. They're just La Verne Red, La Verne White, and La Verne Pink.
Somebody correct me if I am wrong... should'nt there be about 5 different "species" and many more hybrid "varieties"?
So La Verne is still selling plants grown from cuttings from a couple of mother plants?
Did you see any DF grown from seed?
I never heard of that Dragon Fruit variety behavior before: "the thorns drop off when the fruit ripens;" cool!
See the chart I posted September 14 on this thread. It is #8 and #17 on the chart.
I never heard of that Dragon Fruit variety behavior before: "the thorns drop off when the fruit ripens;" cool!Here's a link to their web page on Selenicereus megalanthus (http://toptropicals.com/catalog/uid/selenicereus_megalanthus.htm).
They have two varieties of the yellow DF. One yellow DF variety is described as "very-sweet". The other yellow DF variety is described as "super-sweet," and it comes with a higher price.
When I called up to order the "super-sweet" DF variety, they were sold out and I ended up ordering the yellow DF variety that was described as "very-sweet."
Full disclosure: Something tells me that they are both the same variety and that there has just been some kind of classification error. But, then again, I wish I was wrong and that there really does exist a second variety with the deserving name of "super-sweet."
Anyhow, just as I told ricshaw, I tried to resist but ended up ordering the yellow "very-sweet" DF variety, along with all the small fruit size and thorns characteristics.
So here is an odd situation. I ordered some dragon fruit cuttings and got them today. One of the ones I ordered was American Beauty. Well I received two cuttings that were labeled American Beauty. The problem is ... they are different from each other!
See the picture below. The top cutting is three-sided/lobed and the bottom cutting is four-sided/lobed.
So is American Beauty the three-lobed cutting (which I think is correct, my other two DF vines are three-lobed)? So what is the other cutting? What DF species have four-lobes?
(http://s22.postimg.cc/5544odnzx/dragon.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5544odnzx/)
I thought Frankie's red takes 4 months and yellow megalanthus takes 5-6 months from flower bud to ripe fruit? The number LEOOEL saw seems a little off for the yellow one. Or maybe it's faster in FL weather, I don't have experience.
So here is an odd situation. I ordered some dragon fruit cuttings and got them today. One of the ones I ordered was American Beauty. Well I received two cuttings that were labeled American Beauty. The problem is ... they are different from each other!
See the picture below. The top cutting is three-sided/lobed and the bottom cutting is four-sided/lobed.
So is American Beauty the three-lobed cutting (which I think is correct, my other two DF vines are three-lobed)? So what is the other cutting? What DF species have four-lobes?
The cross-breeding of plants brings out the occasional anomaly in development. The S-8 variety goes completely flat on occasion, losing one of its edges. It doesn't hurt the plant physically, but If its an unsupported branch, it doesn't have the 'tripod' structure of a normal branch, and can bend or break more easily. Also, if you end up with a flower bud that reverts back to a branch in development, you can end up with a 6-sided segment for a few inches, to a foot. I don't know if that affects fruit production, but I have yet to verify any new flower budding in these plant segments.
but to your original question, if the plants look the same, color, thorns, etc, but theres just one extra side, I would think its safe to assume its probably what you ordered.
(http://s22.postimg.cc/5544odnzx/dragon.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5544odnzx/)
I am going to use a picture to help answer your question.
Below is three cuttings from the UC (I selected) of El Grullo.
(http://s24.postimg.cc/5yikmoczl/cuttings_5520p.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5yikmoczl/)
If you trust your source... then yes both cuttings can be American Beauty.
The cross-breeding of plants brings out the occasional anomaly in development. The S-8 variety goes completely flat on occasion, losing one of its edges. It doesn't hurt the plant physically, but If its an unsupported branch, it doesn't have the 'tripod' structure of a normal branch, and can bend or break more easily. Also, if you end up with a flower bud that reverts back to a branch in development, you can end up with a 6-sided segment for a few inches, to a foot. I don't know if that affects fruit production, but I have yet to verify any new flower budding in these plant segments.
but to your original question, if the plants look the same, color, thorns, etc, but theres just one extra side, I would think its safe to assume its probably what you ordered.
So here is an odd situation. I ordered some dragon fruit cuttings and got them today. One of the ones I ordered was American Beauty. Well I received two cuttings that were labeled American Beauty. The problem is ... they are different from each other!
See the picture below. The top cutting is three-sided/lobed and the bottom cutting is four-sided/lobed.
So is American Beauty the three-lobed cutting (which I think is correct, my other two DF vines are three-lobed)? So what is the other cutting? What DF species have four-lobes?
(http://s22.postimg.cc/5544odnzx/dragon.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5544odnzx/)
So here is an odd situation. I ordered some dragon fruit cuttings and got them today. One of the ones I ordered was American Beauty. Well I received two cuttings that were labeled American Beauty. The problem is ... they are different from each other!
See the picture below. The top cutting is three-sided/lobed and the bottom cutting is four-sided/lobed.
So is American Beauty the three-lobed cutting (which I think is correct, my other two DF vines are three-lobed)? So what is the other cutting? What DF species have four-lobes?
(http://s22.postimg.cc/5544odnzx/dragon.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5544odnzx/)
The thorns on my American Beauty are much different than what it looks like in your picture. My AB seems to just have 1 thorn (maybe one larger and a really small one) at each node (?). In your picture, they all look like they have 5+ at each node.
My AB thorn.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/American%20Beauty/AB-1_15-10-08_zpsq8fz5wve.jpg)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/American%20Beauty/AB-2_15-10-05_zpsedfourlc.jpg)
DM
So here is an odd situation. I ordered some dragon fruit cuttings and got them today. One of the ones I ordered was American Beauty. Well I received two cuttings that were labeled American Beauty. The problem is ... they are different from each other!
See the picture below. The top cutting is three-sided/lobed and the bottom cutting is four-sided/lobed.
So is American Beauty the three-lobed cutting (which I think is correct, my other two DF vines are three-lobed)? So what is the other cutting? What DF species have four-lobes?
I think you will find that your small cuttings, are very very immature. As they continue to develop, most of those small prickles will disappear and you will be left with 1 thorn. Any seedling dragonfruit have heaps of tiny thorns while they are young, most of which vanish with maturity.
(http://s22.postimg.cc/5544odnzx/dragon.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5544odnzx/)
The thorns on my American Beauty are much different than what it looks like in your picture. My AB seems to just have 1 thorn (maybe one larger and a really small one) at each node (?). In your picture, they all look like they have 5+ at each node.
My AB thorn.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/American%20Beauty/AB-1_15-10-08_zpsq8fz5wve.jpg)
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/American%20Beauty/AB-2_15-10-05_zpsedfourlc.jpg)
DM
Yeah, mine look very different. The two 'American Beauty' cuttings are the one in the foreground and the one to the right (one in the background is a different variety).
(http://s1.postimg.cc/izj0n1nbv/dragon2.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/izj0n1nbv/)
About 5 years from seed I think, so short cutting should be about the same or a little better. Depends on how fast it grows. Thin growth sounds like not enough light.It gets high lighting, but since The days are getting shorter due to fall, it gets significantly less hours of sun. 3 years to go I guess!
You cant really do much for adding supplements until you have a solid rooting system in place. Until that happens, I would suggest keeping the cutting in the shade and out of direct sunlight. Your plant is getting bleached out and dehydrated. Warmth is great for starting new cuttings, heat is not. I know this is contrary to what most people here would tell you, but just put the cutting in a glass or jar with about an inch of clean water, then put it on a windowsill inside the house. Let it get indirect sunlight and stay warm for a while, and if its ready to shoot roots, it will. I start most of my cuttings, once they are cut and hardened for about a week, in a 5 gallon bucket with some water. I just toss them all together and check about once a week. Ive even started cuttings in those 99c store gelatin vase marble things, the ones you rehydrate.
Patience and placement are the 2 key things to starting new plants from cuttings.
What did you learn about La Verne Dragon Fruit?
I learned that our host defers most questions about Dragon Fruit to Edgar :D
Ah, one thing I forgot to mention last week--one of the La Verne mother plants had a big, beautiful flower open at 11:00 AM on a warm, sunny day. So "dragon fruit only flowers at night" is more of a guideline than an actual rule.
Ah, one thing I forgot to mention last week--one of the La Verne mother plants had a big, beautiful flower open at 11:00 AM on a warm, sunny day. So "dragon fruit only flowers at night" is more of a guideline than an actual rule.
True, but I am finding out that pollination is more successful at 11:00 PM than the following morning at 11:00 AM.
I'll probably be a like a new Dad the first time I get a flower. I'll wear a GoPro and hand-pollinate and blog the whole procedure like a fanatical idiot. And then I'll ignore it after the 4th or 5th flower.Head light is very handy when pollinating at night. Batman costume is a plus if you do it on Halloween.
I'll probably be a like a new Dad the first time I get a flower. I'll wear a GoPro and hand-pollinate and blog the whole procedure like a fanatical idiot. And then I'll ignore it after the 4th or 5th flower.Head light is very handy when pollinating at night. Batman costume is a plus if you do it on Halloween.
I've finally picked the last Purple Haze from last season. At almost five and a half months old I figured it should be ready by now. After cutting it I found that most of the seeds were already sprouted.
(http://s30.postimg.cc/ovhmavkal/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/ovhmavkal/)
I thought that a few of you would find this interesting. This is the last Purple Haze fruit from last season. It was pollinated with its own pollen on 30/04/15. Only small, maybe 150 gm, and just starting to colour. I've never had a fruit hang on for this long, almost 4 months. Anyone else had this happen?
Some dragon fruits finally reached the top and are allowed to branch out and drape. hoping for some delicious fruits in the future!
(http://s10.postimg.cc/dichm8oed/image_88167.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/dichm8oed/)
LOL! My first thought upon seeing your photo was, "Who is funlul, and why is he posting a photo of my dragonfruit? How did he get into my backyard?"
I never heard of that Dragon Fruit variety behavior before: "the thorns drop off when the fruit ripens;" cool!Here's a link to their web page on Selenicereus megalanthus (http://toptropicals.com/catalog/uid/selenicereus_megalanthus.htm).
They have two varieties of the yellow DF. One yellow DF variety is described as "very-sweet". The other yellow DF variety is described as "super-sweet," and it comes with a higher price.
When I called up to order the "super-sweet" DF variety, they were sold out and I ended up ordering the yellow DF variety that was described as "very-sweet."
Full disclosure: Something tells me that they are both the same variety and that there has just been some kind of classification error. But, then again, I wish I was wrong and that there really does exist a second variety with the deserving name of "super-sweet."
Anyhow, just as I told ricshaw, I tried to resist but ended up ordering the yellow "very-sweet" DF variety, along with all the small fruit size and thorns characteristics.
Last week I received the "very sweet" (Megalanthus) Yellow Dragon Fruit (DF) variety from T.T. Nursery, and I was quite impressed. The shipping was perfect. It consisted of a medium-small plastic black pot from which two (2!) DF stalks come up out of the soil to a height of about 2 feet, supported by a thin wood board.
What surprised me about this variety, is that the width of the DF 'stalk' (...?) is about half the width of my 'David-Bowie' variety Red DF. I suppose this has to do as to why the (megalanthus) fruit is smaller than the Red DF; I then can't help but to wish that advanced CRISPR-CAS9 technology were already here, so that the size of the fruit could be made to be the same size as the Red DF, or bigger. I suppose it's something to look forward to.
I'm considering planting the Yellow DF on the same pole where I have my 'David-Bowie' Red DF growing, since I've run out of space in my yard. And, since the fruit from both varieties are of different colors, one is red and the other is yellow, it'll be easy to identify which is which. I just hope that they get along OK on the same pole and that the Red DF doesn't end up killing the Yellow DF.
Or you could be careless while tying them to your post and break off the tip unintentionally. That's about 3' shorter than it's supposed to be. Grrrr.:(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/DragonFruitBrokenTip.jpg)
I never heard of that Dragon Fruit variety behavior before: "the thorns drop off when the fruit ripens;" cool!Here's a link to their web page on Selenicereus megalanthus (http://toptropicals.com/catalog/uid/selenicereus_megalanthus.htm).
They have two varieties of the yellow DF. One yellow DF variety is described as "very-sweet". The other yellow DF variety is described as "super-sweet," and it comes with a higher price.
When I called up to order the "super-sweet" DF variety, they were sold out and I ended up ordering the yellow DF variety that was described as "very-sweet."
Full disclosure: Something tells me that they are both the same variety and that there has just been some kind of classification error. But, then again, I wish I was wrong and that there really does exist a second variety with the deserving name of "super-sweet."
Anyhow, just as I told ricshaw, I tried to resist but ended up ordering the yellow "very-sweet" DF variety, along with all the small fruit size and thorns characteristics.
Last week I received the "very sweet" (Megalanthus) Yellow Dragon Fruit (DF) variety from T.T. Nursery, and I was quite impressed. The shipping was perfect. It consisted of a medium-small plastic black pot from which two (2!) DF stalks come up out of the soil to a height of about 2 feet, supported by a thin wood board.
What surprised me about this variety, is that the width of the DF 'stalk' (...?) is about half the width of my 'David-Bowie' variety Red DF. I suppose this has to do as to why the (megalanthus) fruit is smaller than the Red DF; I then can't help but to wish that advanced CRISPR-CAS9 technology were already here, so that the size of the fruit could be made to be the same size as the Red DF, or bigger. I suppose it's something to look forward to.
I'm considering planting the Yellow DF on the same pole where I have my 'David-Bowie' Red DF growing, since I've run out of space in my yard. And, since the fruit from both varieties are of different colors, one is red and the other is yellow, it'll be easy to identify which is which. I just hope that they get along OK on the same pole and that the Red DF doesn't end up killing the Yellow DF.
Pictures!! Pictures!!
My yellow dragon is one inch in width. Is yours about that size?
Pictures!! Pictures!!
My yellow dragon is one inch in width. Is yours about that size?
File: Selenicereus megalanthus
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/df/Selenicereus_megalanthus_%28DITSL%29.JPG (https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/df/Selenicereus_megalanthus_%28DITSL%29.JPG)
Pictures!! Pictures!!
My yellow dragon is one inch in width. Is yours about that size?
File: Selenicereus megalanthus
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/df/Selenicereus_megalanthus_%28DITSL%29.JPG (https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/df/Selenicereus_megalanthus_%28DITSL%29.JPG)
Wow! They definity look slimmer than the other dragon fruits! Live the way its growing in the picture
Any thoughts? I've had 3 flowers on three different nights that I've wanted to collect pollen from to store, and none have produced a spec of pollen. Weather is good and warm with good humidity but it's not something I've encountered before. The varieties concerned have always had plenty of pollen.
Just an update on the no pollen situation. I have 2 varieties flowering tonight, G2 and Jade Red. It's 9pm, hot, humid and ready to storm in a big way. The G2, one flower only, has plump anthers that are loaded with pollen. The Jade Red, two flowers, has shrivelled anthers and not a spec of pollen. Hopefully the G2 can pollinate itself. I'm not sure what is causing the problem as they are 2 metres apart with same growing conditions.Any thoughts? I've had 3 flowers on three different nights that I've wanted to collect pollen from to store, and none have produced a spec of pollen. Weather is good and warm with good humidity but it's not something I've encountered before. The varieties concerned have always had plenty of pollen.
Weather is a factor. If you waited to collect pollen in the morning, I bet you could have gotten pollen around 10 PM when the flower first opened. That has been my experience.
I was told g2 needs a pollinator
Some dragon fruits finally reached the top and are allowed to branch out and drape. hoping for some delicious fruits in the future!
(http://s10.postimg.cc/dichm8oed/image_88167.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/dichm8oed/)
But we'll warm right back up in March/April, so maybe I'll get flowers in 2016.
I bought this beauty at Publix. Does somebody know what variety it is? it's sweet comparing to white flash ones.
ricshaw lol... the flash is almost purple (like beets color).
Mine have draped over the trellis, and about 2 weeks ago I noticed a set of buds forming on a horizontal segment:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/DragonFruitMultiBuds.jpg)
This was when it was still warm in Los Angeles (mid-80s during the day. In November . ::) ). I'll snap another photo this weekend to compare progress, but it's cooled down significantly in the last 2 weeks (mid to low 60s during the day, 50s at night) so I don't expect a lot of growth right now.
Mine have draped over the trellis, and about 2 weeks ago I noticed a set of buds forming on a horizontal segment:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/DragonFruitMultiBuds.jpg)
This was when it was still warm in Los Angeles (mid-80s during the day. In November . ::) ). I'll snap another photo this weekend to compare progress, but it's cooled down significantly in the last 2 weeks (mid to low 60s during the day, 50s at night) so I don't expect a lot of growth right now.
So here's 19 days of growth on those stems:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/DragonFruitMultiBuds19Days.jpg)
That's not bad for November! Then again it got back into 80s again this weekend. Crazy Los Angeles weather.
Merry Christmas!
I've been posting pics of my Red Dragonfruit here for about a year. I found it on accident really at a Home Depot in Miami, Haleys Comet, and made the mistake of thinking it would grow just fine in my window ceil in Central Indiana. I had quite a bit of etiolation. Over the summer, however, it began growing very thick. Since then, I've trimmed off all the skinny growth and broke down the cactus into about 5 "root stocks" to grow from.
Last year, I was using a 300w full spectrum LED to supplement and it showed some impact to provide non-etiolated growth. This window, I purchased an additional 900w full spectrum LED, padded a closet ceiling and walls with mylar, and tried to create an indoor environment suitable for good growth. The temp is staying around 95 degrees in that room with both LEDs, I'm using SmartThings Temp sensor/outlet to regulate light usage and alert me if temps become excessive. I'm ventilating by keeping door cracked.
I've been noticing some interesting behavior. After trimming and planting, shortly after each root stock put out a pup but what I'm observing is that pups are putting out pups and its creating a branched-like structure. I also noticed the tips seemed more darker than usual but it seems to be growing. I'm thinking I need to lower my light and concentrate it closer to the Dragonfruit to get thicker, green growth. Other than that, they seem to be healthy pups. Any thoughts on why this is occurring? I've cut stock before and didn't see this happen. Pics are below. Thanks!
(http://s23.postimg.cc/u7yi97ax3/20151223_181606.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/u7yi97ax3/) (http://s23.postimg.cc/gi3z0ent3/20151223_181613.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/gi3z0ent3/) (http://s23.postimg.cc/6v0gqoutj/20151223_181625.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/6v0gqoutj/)
(http://s23.postimg.cc/kfr8ptamf/20151223_181713.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/kfr8ptamf/) (http://s23.postimg.cc/asnqg3hmv/20151223_181722.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/asnqg3hmv/) (http://s23.postimg.cc/3lm1k86pz/20151223_181731.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/3lm1k86pz/)
Does anyone know what these are on some of my dragonfruit cuttings? From Google searches, they looks like roots. Do I just need to flip the cutting?
(http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag213/sparkletts05/sparkletts05048/1_zpsri3o9tog.png) (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/sparkletts05/media/sparkletts05048/1_zpsri3o9tog.png.html)
Merry Christmas!
I've been posting pics of my Red Dragonfruit here for about a year. I found it on accident really at a Home Depot in Miami, Haleys Comet, and made the mistake of thinking it would grow just fine in my window ceil in Central Indiana. I had quite a bit of etiolation. Over the summer, however, it began growing very thick. Since then, I've trimmed off all the skinny growth and broke down the cactus into about 5 "root stocks" to grow from.
Last year, I was using a 300w full spectrum LED to supplement and it showed some impact to provide non-etiolated growth. This window, I purchased an additional 900w full spectrum LED, padded a closet ceiling and walls with mylar, and tried to create an indoor environment suitable for good growth. The temp is staying around 95 degrees in that room with both LEDs, I'm using SmartThings Temp sensor/outlet to regulate light usage and alert me if temps become excessive. I'm ventilating by keeping door cracked.
I've been noticing some interesting behavior. After trimming and planting, shortly after each root stock put out a pup but what I'm observing is that pups are putting out pups and its creating a branched-like structure. I also noticed the tips seemed more darker than usual but it seems to be growing. I'm thinking I need to lower my light and concentrate it closer to the Dragonfruit to get thicker, green growth. Other than that, they seem to be healthy pups. Any thoughts on why this is occurring? I've cut stock before and didn't see this happen. Pics are below. Thanks!
(http://s23.postimg.cc/u7yi97ax3/20151223_181606.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/u7yi97ax3/) (http://s23.postimg.cc/gi3z0ent3/20151223_181613.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/gi3z0ent3/) (http://s23.postimg.cc/6v0gqoutj/20151223_181625.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/6v0gqoutj/)
(http://s23.postimg.cc/kfr8ptamf/20151223_181713.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/kfr8ptamf/) (http://s23.postimg.cc/asnqg3hmv/20151223_181722.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/asnqg3hmv/) (http://s23.postimg.cc/3lm1k86pz/20151223_181731.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/3lm1k86pz/)
I don´t know much about the light effect in plants, just the basics, but do you keep the red light always on or do you simulate the day/night period?
I received a few cuttings yesterday that could be yellow dragon fruits...
But we are not sure because the source had multiple varieties.
I know the yellow dragon fruits have a few unique qualities, what about their cuttings?
Is it possible to reasonably conclude if these cuttings are likely yellow or not?
Thank you very much!!
Are you talking about yellow megalanthus or yellow undatus Dragon Fruit?
Are you talking about yellow megalanthus or yellow undatus Dragon Fruit?
Idk... which is the really good tasting one that takes a long time to ripen?
H. megalanthus is the one with thorny yellow-skinned fruit with very sweet white flesh that most everybody likes. It also takes 150 - 180 days for fruit in Southern California and has a low tolerance for heat and cold. :)
...guatemalan type that produces magenta-fleshed fruits. Could be one of these or something similar. Condor, G2, Santa Barbara Red, American Beauty.
so, i have a purple have that has grown up the side of my house
it is now growing on the eve
i put a couple of nails in the wood
and a wire to hold the weight...
will this work ?
(http://postimg.cc/image/g8y88sk13/)
wow!!!! awesome!! how much time has the pot behind? the one with the dragon fruit from seed?The seedlings in this picture are 7 months old.
Is this stem dying? The parts above the brown portion appear to be healthy.
Guys, i can only grow DF in containers using Vietnamese method... How big the container should be? How many cutting I can plant in each one?You mean the umbrella shape?
I know that I can go through the 63 pages of this thread and find the answer, but it will take ages to do that.
Some fruit on my dragonfruit plant changed colour more than a week ago. They are bigger than a man's fist. Bigger than my two fists together. They are pink, but with a bit of green colour underneath. It is our first fruit from our own garden.
How do I know when it is the right time to harvest?
...you almost need a degree in botany to tell close cousins apart, like Sugar Dragon vs Voodoo Child, or Delight vs Physical Graffiti.
Is it better to grow multiple cuttings per container? Would they compete for space?
Is it better to grow multiple cuttings per container? Would they compete for space?
I have done it both ways; single rooted cutting per container, 2 - 3 rooted cuttings per container. I have not noticed any difference. I can tell you that I have seen growers successfully grow single rooted cuttings in only 5 gallon nursery containers.
1,120 kg dragonfruit ::) :o
(http://s22.postimg.cc/77sdlgjgt/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/77sdlgjgt/)
(http://s22.postimg.cc/vzrzsp0nh/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/vzrzsp0nh/)
Ugh... The disappointment in finding rot on your dragonfruit cutting 😢
I planted this in sep of last year and have yet to see any new growth, so I thought it was root bound and decided to repor it. Low and behold the bottom 1 1/2 inch has turned mushy. Why!!?? 😢
So I removed the soft part and so far have it outside in the shade curing the ends.
My question is , should I cut the bottom off? I see so roots but I don't think it's dead. Should I leave it or cut it?
(http://s22.postimg.cc/77sdlgjgt/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/77sdlgjgt/)
(http://s22.postimg.cc/vzrzsp0nh/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/vzrzsp0nh/)
Ugh... The disappointment in finding rot on your dragonfruit cutting 😢
I planted this in sep of last year and have yet to see any new growth, so I thought it was root bound and decided to repor it. Low and behold the bottom 1 1/2 inch has turned mushy. Why!!?? 😢
So I removed the soft part and so far have it outside in the shade curing the ends.
My question is , should I cut the bottom off? I see so roots but I don't think it's dead. Should I leave it or cut it?
My pick is to leave it.
Sandy, it looks okay with the bare cane. The bottom tends to away with age anyway. The center cane is the real trunk.
Eventually all the soft tissue below soil level rots away. That core should eventually gain girth and put out more and more complex root systems, which will support the plant under natural conditions. Remember, the nicely shaped and organized plants you see in peoples gardens aren't even close to how these plants grow in the wild. In fact, unstable supports and surfaces is key to this plant's survival in the wild. Its why it developed the ability to reproduce from cuttings, being able to propagate from the limbs broken off from damage or poor support.
But, back to your plant. You should be able to put that baby in a starter pot right away and get things going.
(http://s22.postimg.cc/77sdlgjgt/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/77sdlgjgt/)
(http://s22.postimg.cc/vzrzsp0nh/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/vzrzsp0nh/)
Ugh... The disappointment in finding rot on your dragonfruit cutting 😢
I planted this in sep of last year and have yet to see any new growth, so I thought it was root bound and decided to repor it. Low and behold the bottom 1 1/2 inch has turned mushy. Why!!?? 😢]
So I removed the soft part and so far have it outside in the shade curing the ends.]Quote
If that was my cutting, I would make a clean cut to remove any rotten stem and flesh, and start again. The stem that has no flesh around it, just above the roots, doesn't look healthy, or even still alive. You could wait a couple of weeks to see if that bit of stem hardens up. If it's flimsy ands easily bent, it's most probably dead. I find the best way to avoid rot is to wait for the small roots to emerge from your cutting while the are laying on a bench somewhere, then put a stake in the pot you wish to use and tie the cutting to it with the root lets just touching the soil. Don't bury the cutting at all!
My question is , should I cut the bottom off? I see so roots but I don't think it's dead. Should I leave it or cut it?
put an inch or 2 in the soil, to help keep it in place. Also, even in a smaller container, youre going to want to put a stick or stake to start tying the cutting to, so you can encourage vertical rowth without worrying about leaning or tipping. I use cheap black plastic pots, the one gallon size, once the plant has roots. Thinner and flimsier the better. That way when I'm ready to upgrade into the large, final growing container (or ground), I can easily cut away the pot with scissors or a sharp knife, and not have to try and pull the root ball out of the pot. Cactus roots can be very soft so you can do a lot of damage if you put too much pressure on them during transplant.
At least you have time to determine how you are going to set up your final support for your plant(s) now.
(http://s22.postimg.cc/77sdlgjgt/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/77sdlgjgt/)
(http://s22.postimg.cc/vzrzsp0nh/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/vzrzsp0nh/)
Ugh... The disappointment in finding rot on your dragonfruit cutting
I planted this in sep of last year and have yet to see any new growth, so I thought it was root bound and decided to repor it. Low and behold the bottom 1 1/2 inch has turned mushy. Why!!?? ]
So I removed the soft part and so far have it outside in the shade curing the ends.]Quote
If that was my cutting, I would make a clean cut to remove any rotten stem and flesh, and start again. The stem that has no flesh around it, just above the roots, doesn't look healthy, or even still alive. You could wait a couple of weeks to see if that bit of stem hardens up. If it's flimsy ands easily bent, it's most probably dead. I find the best way to avoid rot is to wait for the small roots to emerge from your cutting while the are laying on a bench somewhere, then put a stake in the pot you wish to use and tie the cutting to it with the root lets just touching the soil. Don't bury the cutting at all!
My question is , should I cut the bottom off? I see so roots but I don't think it's dead. Should I leave it or cut it?
Thank you. I'm definitely going to try your tips on cuttings now!
New questions...Jim Neitzel has one growing up a pecan tree, probably 50 feet.
I read the wild DF are tree climbers, wanting rich soil and more water than many tropicals. So I would imagine that a bright northern exposure would be an acceptable location for growth and fruit production?
The largest DF I ever saw was a wild specimen at least 50' tall growing up the side of a huge tree with a full dark canopy. I saw it briefly in very early spring and have no idea if it fruited there.
My experience with the two I have is that they do like a regular watering, and rich soil.
The fruiting in a less bright location is my main concern.
The seedlings in this picture are 7 months old.Whew! Just finished reading all 64 pages!
(http://s16.postimg.cc/qommvpk8x/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/qommvpk8x/)
H. megalanthus is the one with thorny yellow-skinned fruit with very sweet white flesh that most everybody likes. It also takes 150 - 180 days for fruit in Southern California and has a low tolerance for heat and cold. :)
BTW, if anyone in the So Cal area (I Live in Ontario, by the airport) is interested in a few Thompson S-8 cuttings, I have some to hand out. Go ahead and contact me directly, via email, so we're not cluttering up the forum.
BTW, if anyone in the So Cal area (I Live in Ontario, by the airport) is interested in a few Thompson S-8 cuttings, I have some to hand out. Go ahead and contact me directly, via email, so we're not cluttering up the forum.
I wish I lived near by, that's so nice of you. I have one and am waiting for it to root.
I'm wondering have you tried the fruit from this variety?
does anyone have s-8 cuttings in the states? preferably in florida? willing to trade.
does anyone have s-8 cuttings in the states? preferably in florida? willing to trade.
BTW, if anyone in the So Cal area (I Live in Ontario, by the airport) is interested in a few Thompson S-8 cuttings, I have some to hand out. Go ahead and contact me directly, via email, so we're not cluttering up the forum.
I wish I lived near by, that's so nice of you. I have one and am waiting for it to root.
I'm wondering have you tried the fruit from this variety?
I have and it is a favorite by most people at Dragon Fruit Festival tastings.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuoXmGaVaeI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuoXmGaVaeI)
does anyone know what type of dragon fruit this is?That appears to be something close to, if not, the S-8 variety based on what I can see from the plants branch. For plant ID, showing the plant itself is usually more helpful than pictures of the flowers. Although, the flower stem does seem to be showing a lighter green than what I'm used to seeing, which might make it a close relative of S-8, or it could just be a slight variance in available lighting or available fertilizer nutrients (i.e. even same species don't always look exactly alike).
(http://i.imgur.com/dX4IOzAl.jpg)
Really hoping my oldest DF (planted last spring) will consider to flower... In what months do they flower in SoCal? :)Out here in Ontario (California), my more sunny location plants have been producing flower bud starts for about 2 weeks now, with the shaded ones creating branches. If your plants are producing new stem growth, but not flower buds, then you should probably up the dosage on phosphorus fertilizer to help them kick over to fruit production mode. If they aren't growing in either way, theyre just not up and around yet from the winter season.
Yes, the S-8 is also my favorite variety of dragon fruit, both in taste and its versatility. It has the most "berry" flavor of all the varieties Ive tried, so its the one best suited for showing off to new people who have never tried them before. I like to present them in sets, one solid white and one Sugar Dragon so people can see the contrast in appearance and the wide range of flavor. Also, the S-8 is very good for culinary use, for making jams and jellies, sauces, toppings and also makes a wonderful ice cream. My small yard doesn't allow me to mass produce fruit, but I've tried making dehydrated fruit "chips", but they came out more like jerky or fruit roll-up, but were still tasty.BTW, if anyone in the So Cal area (I Live in Ontario, by the airport) is interested in a few Thompson S-8 cuttings, I have some to hand out. Go ahead and contact me directly, via email, so we're not cluttering up the forum.
I wish I lived near by, that's so nice of you. I have one and am waiting for it to root.
I'm wondering have you tried the fruit from this variety?
Really hoping my oldest DF (planted last spring) will consider to flower... In what months do they flower in SoCal? :)Out here in Ontario (California), my more sunny location plants have been producing flower bud starts for about 2 weeks now, with the shaded ones creating branches. If your plants are producing new stem growth, but not flower buds, then you should probably up the dosage on phosphorus fertilizer to help them kick over to fruit production mode. If they aren't growing in either way, theyre just not up and around yet from the winter season.
If the plants don't have much old growth, that could be why they're not flowering. Flowers come from hardened growth. Also, it's better if the plant has reached a good size. All the cuttings grown plants have been around for at least decades but each segment has an age that's much younger. Generally, people use the weight to estimate general readiness to hold fruit.And of course weight is a factor of size, and size is a factor of growth. You could, theoretically, trim down a plant to a single long branch and it would produce fruit, once it has reached proper age and hardened(don't do this btw). Like most fruit bearing annuals, you get this years fruit off of last years branches, so once you have a plant of sufficient age, you'll get fruit. Each year you should see more fruit produced as more branches become 'mature' and are capable of supporting the proper chemistry for fruit production. Also, you'll start to get some crowding as branches start to overlap and cover each other. Once you reach this state, its time to start thinking about pruning your canopy.
does anyone know what type of dragon fruit this is?That appears to be something close to, if not, the S-8 variety based on what I can see from the plants branch. For plant ID, showing the plant itself is usually more helpful than pictures of the flowers. Although, the flower stem does seem to be showing a lighter green than what I'm used to seeing, which might make it a close relative of S-8, or it could just be a slight variance in available lighting or available fertilizer nutrients (i.e. even same species don't always look exactly alike).
(http://i.imgur.com/dX4IOzAl.jpg)
Also, as a side note, I believe DNA testing they've done at the research center here in Irvine shows that Voodoo Child and Thompson S-8 "Sugar Dragon" are not the same plant.
BTW, the other plant in the background, without the flower, looks to be something of a pink variety, Haley's Comet or Physical Graffiti possibly.
Yes, the S-8 is also my favorite variety of dragon fruit, both in taste and its versatility. It has the most "berry" flavor of all the varieties Ive tried, so its the one best suited for showing off to new people who have never tried them before. I like to present them in sets, one solid white and one Sugar Dragon so people can see the contrast in appearance and the wide range of flavor. Also, the S-8 is very good for culinary use, for making jams and jellies, sauces, toppings and also makes a wonderful ice cream. My small yard doesn't allow me to mass produce fruit, but I've tried making dehydrated fruit "chips", but they came out more like jerky or fruit roll-up, but were still tasty.BTW, if anyone in the So Cal area (I Live in Ontario, by the airport) is interested in a few Thompson S-8 cuttings, I have some to hand out. Go ahead and contact me directly, via email, so we're not cluttering up the forum.
I wish I lived near by, that's so nice of you. I have one and am waiting for it to root.
I'm wondering have you tried the fruit from this variety?
The only drawback with S-8 is the size, as they are one of the smallest dragon fruit types. The peeled fruit runs the size range from hens eggs to goose eggs, although the plants can produce quite heavily if conditions are right. Once, when I was down in Fallbrook at Linda and Ghery's ranch, they have a plot with dozens of S-8's set up very well, they were bearing 50-100 fruit per plant, per flower flush, with some plants having flowers at every thorn point down a branch. BTW, to give credit where its due, Linda and Ghery (at Elk Creek farm in Fallbrook, CA) are the distribution source of a large percentage of the S-8 you see being talked about, especially in California. They received their plants directly from Paul Thompson, who was a friend of theirs, and they've made a real effort to share this species with others, and have been very helpful with not only spreading the word about dragon fruit, but trying to keep a handle on a continuity of species naming and proper growing techniques. They have always been very generous with their knowledge.
Thanks again... here is another picture with newly forming fruit
(http://i.imgur.com/kh4GBGkl.jpg)
Thanks again... here is another picture with newly forming fruit
(http://i.imgur.com/kh4GBGkl.jpg)
(http://s32.postimg.cc/hct3n05dt/20160426_160503.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/hct3n05dt/)
(http://s32.postimg.cc/mytawaa81/20160426_160413.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/mytawaa81/)
Here are a couple images of S-8 and the cousin variety I'm currently calling Kingthorn. You can see the similar plant structure and coloration, but the flower buds have much more red in them, which is what leads me to think you're variety isn't S-8, but another genetic cousin somewhere in the same family tree.
Thanks again... here is another picture with newly forming fruit
(http://i.imgur.com/kh4GBGkl.jpg)
(http://s32.postimg.cc/hct3n05dt/20160426_160503.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/hct3n05dt/)
(http://s32.postimg.cc/mytawaa81/20160426_160413.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/mytawaa81/)
Here are a couple images of S-8 and the cousin variety I'm currently calling Kingthorn. You can see the similar plant structure and coloration, but the flower buds have much more red in them, which is what leads me to think you're variety isn't S-8, but another genetic cousin somewhere in the same family tree.
Also, you'll start to get some crowding as branches start to overlap and cover each other. Once you reach this state, its time to start thinking about pruning your canopy.
I tend to 'comb out' plants as they develop, trying to make sure the branches grow in parallel, next to each other, not just randomly like morning hair. This allows for more productive branches per plant, which is very helpful if youre working with limited space, like I am. But, eventually, theres enough overlap that you have to start trimming back excess branches.
Need help . My suppose to be self pollenate DF . I hand pollen the DF with its own pollen . Few day later the DF turn yellow and fell off. How can I get that DF to produce fruit . I'm planting more then one varieties in on trellises. I want to try to cross pollenate them but all the bud bloom different time .
Here are some pics of how I have my plants growing. There are 2 main areas, the shorter plants and the tall trellis. The short plants are basic 4x4 by 8ft redwood posts buried 30 inches down and wrapped in burlap. The clinging roots don't like sticking to treated wood or redwood, so if you wrap the posts in burlap fabric (potato sack material, available by the roll at most hardware stores), it gives the air roots something to weave into and hold on. Also, if possible, you should coat the buried section in a waterproofer, like roofing tar or something thick and tough before you bury them, to help prevent any remaining rot chance. The rest of it is just a series of 3ft lumber pieces I built to make a very open ladder-like trellis. I was able to get a good deal on a large quantity of Trex composite material pieces I used for my creations, but anything weather-resistant will work. the basic idea is to support the weight of the branches so the stress of them hanging down doesn't pull them out of their joints at the main plant. Any shape will work, and you can build them to suit your location's needs.
The second area is just a much larger version of the first, except it is mostly free-standing, with cross supports to my house. This is my southern facing area, which is fairly limited in size, so I had to go with tall, narrow planting rather than wide, rounded canopies. The main problem I have with this arrangement is that most of the plants there receive almost no direct sunlight for 3 months of the year due to it being blocked out by my neighbor's house. Later in the season, when the sun gets higher, I tend to get my first fruit higher in the plants, so harvesting off a ladder is necessary. This is by no means an ideal way to grow plants, but it was the best I could do with the situation at hand.
I hope this helps to give you some ideas for your own situation.
Great thank you .now I have to wait for the other varieties to catch up and hope they all bloom at the same time so I can cross pollenate them. I guess all the self Pollenate that people claim aren't self pollenate.
Great thank you .now I have to wait for the other varieties to catch up and hope they all bloom at the same time so I can cross pollenate them. I guess all the self Pollenate that people claim aren't self pollenate.I think you might be confusing self pollinating with self fertile. Self fertile varieties can be grown by themselves and do not require a differing species' pollen to produce fruit. A self pollinating plant is self fertile, but also has the ability to pollenate itself without outside help. Humans, bees and other outside influences count towards removing a self pollinating status. Only plants that can produce fruit on their own, with nothing more then maybe a slight breeze count as self pollinating. Your pictures show a yellow Megalanthus variety, and I'm fairly certain that this type is not self fertile to begin with.
Merce,does anyone know what type of dragon fruit this is?That appears to be something close to, if not, the S-8 variety based on what I can see from the plants branch. For plant ID, showing the plant itself is usually more helpful than pictures of the flowers. Although, the flower stem does seem to be showing a lighter green than what I'm used to seeing, which might make it a close relative of S-8, or it could just be a slight variance in available lighting or available fertilizer nutrients (i.e. even same species don't always look exactly alike).
(http://i.imgur.com/dX4IOzAl.jpg)
Also, as a side note, I believe DNA testing they've done at the research center here in Irvine shows that Voodoo Child and Thompson S-8 "Sugar Dragon" are not the same plant.
BTW, the other plant in the background, without the flower, looks to be something of a pink variety, Haley's Comet or Physical Graffiti possibly.
thanks! i will take pics of the segments for a better idea. i remember that the edges are more rounded than the others that i have growing. also, it appears to need cross-pollination. i actually thought it was houghton, which one of them is supposed to be, but my labels rubbed off. you are right about the physical grafitti though... what led you to that conclusion?
Can I cross pollenate from one flower to another flower from the same dragonfruit plant? Or it has to be a different flower from a different dragonfruit plant.
Thanks
That suck, I have like 20+ bud on my DF ,so far 2 of the bud bloom and hand pollenate them with it self. They just turn yellow and fall off .
That suck, I have like 20+ bud on my DF ,so far 2 of the bud bloom and hand pollenate them with it self. They just turn yellow and fall off .
So a few weeks ago I had my first flowers ;D. Then the rain finally came and I thought awesome! Everything started looking great fast. Yesterday I noticed the smallest of the 2 flowers looked dark, today that little flower bud fell and the bigger one looks dark. :'(. Is it the rain? Too much water ?or the heat? What do you think?[/img]
(http://s33.postimg.cc/z0tfhnp0r/20160525_183241.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/z0tfhnp0r/)
is this one real? I want to buy it.
(http://s33.postimg.cc/sueq0ewkr/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/sueq0ewkr/)
http://m.ebay.com/itm/DWARF-Cosmic-Blue-Dragon-Fruit-Hyrbid-Edible-Fruit-Blue-Blooms-Ships-Fast-/141992019851?nav=SEARCH (http://m.ebay.com/itm/DWARF-Cosmic-Blue-Dragon-Fruit-Hyrbid-Edible-Fruit-Blue-Blooms-Ships-Fast-/141992019851?nav=SEARCH)
is this one real? I want to buy it.
So a few weeks ago I had my first flowers ;D. Then the rain finally came and I thought awesome! Everything started looking great fast. Yesterday I noticed the smallest of the 2 flowers looked dark, today that little flower bud fell and the bigger one looks dark. :'(. Is it the rain? Too much water ?or the heat? What do you think?[/img]
(http://s33.postimg.cc/z0tfhnp0r/20160525_183241.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/z0tfhnp0r/)
From my own personal experience... lack of pollination.
Here I go again . Ok I was able to cross pollenate my DF with fresh pollen from another varieties. That bloom the same night . After a few day , I though it was going to set fruit . Looking at it today I went to give a light squeeze and it felt mushy . Seem light it about to fall of the DF plant . I'm about to pull the hold plant out and start over with well know self pollenate varieties or should I just leave it ?I wasted almost four years growing purple haze and physical graffiti thinking it will set fruit on its own(came from a very reputable source). I ripped the darn thing out last year. The common Vietnamese white dragon will NOT flower(at least mine) the same time as those colorful flesh ones for me to pollinate.
I believe Physical Graffiti should be self-fertile, but not self pollinating (meaning you have to collect and apply the pollen yourself). The plant I have that's supposed to be PG sets its own fruit, but I cross pollinate everything when pollen is available, just to be sure. Early bloomers like S-8 should be in every growers garden to provide a good pollen source, even if you don't plan on growing a large plant of that type. Just plant it along side another and keep it trimmed down enough to supply pollen for the plants you are focusing on. Also, proper pollen collection and storage can help inbetween flushes of flowers so you don't have to panic is they get out of sync mid season. Just air dry out some pollen overnight (just the pollen, remove all other plant parts, bugs, etc) and store it in the freezer in as small of a container as you can and it will keep for weeks if it is properly prepared.Here I go again . Ok I was able to cross pollenate my DF with fresh pollen from another varieties. That bloom the same night . After a few day , I though it was going to set fruit . Looking at it today I went to give a light squeeze and it felt mushy . Seem light it about to fall of the DF plant . I'm about to pull the hold plant out and start over with well know self pollenate varieties or should I just leave it ?I wasted almost four years growing purple haze and physical graffiti thinking it will set fruit on its own(came from a very reputable source). I ripped the darn thing out last year. The common Vietnamese white dragon will NOT flower(at least mine) the same time as those colorful flesh ones for me to pollinate.
I believe Physical Graffiti should be self-fertile, but not self pollinating (meaning you have to collect and apply the pollen yourself). The plant I have that's supposed to be PG sets its own fruit, but I cross pollinate everything when pollen is available, just to be sure. Early bloomers like S-8 should be in every growers garden to provide a good pollen source, even if you don't plan on growing a large plant of that type. Just plant it along side another and keep it trimmed down enough to supply pollen for the plants you are focusing on. Also, proper pollen collection and storage can help inbetween flushes of flowers so you don't have to panic is they get out of sync mid season. Just air dry out some pollen overnight (just the pollen, remove all other plant parts, bugs, etc) and store it in the freezer in as small of a container as you can and it will keep for weeks if it is properly prepared.Here I go again . Ok I was able to cross pollenate my DF with fresh pollen from another varieties. That bloom the same night . After a few day , I though it was going to set fruit . Looking at it today I went to give a light squeeze and it felt mushy . Seem light it about to fall of the DF plant . I'm about to pull the hold plant out and start over with well know self pollenate varieties or should I just leave it ?I wasted almost four years growing purple haze and physical graffiti thinking it will set fruit on its own(came from a very reputable source). I ripped the darn thing out last year. The common Vietnamese white dragon will NOT flower(at least mine) the same time as those colorful flesh ones for me to pollinate.
Can you ship me some S8 cutting . Just don't tell the post office its live plants. I will pay for your cutting and shipping .
And if anyone is still looking for plants, I do still have S-8 cuttings for people in the area. I don't ship them much anymore as I got in trouble with the post office once for shipping live plant materials out of California without a permit
Can you please sell me some S8 cutting . I will PayPal you for cutting and shipping. Just don't tell the post office that you sending live plants.I believe Physical Graffiti should be self-fertile, but not self pollinating (meaning you have to collect and apply the pollen yourself). The plant I have that's supposed to be PG sets its own fruit, but I cross pollinate everything when pollen is available, just to be sure. Early bloomers like S-8 should be in every growers garden to provide a good pollen source, even if you don't plan on growing a large plant of that type. Just plant it along side another and keep it trimmed down enough to supply pollen for the plants you are focusing on. Also, proper pollen collection and storage can help inbetween flushes of flowers so you don't have to panic is they get out of sync mid season. Just air dry out some pollen overnight (just the pollen, remove all other plant parts, bugs, etc) and store it in the freezer in as small of a container as you can and it will keep for weeks if it is properly prepared.Here I go again . Ok I was able to cross pollenate my DF with fresh pollen from another varieties. That bloom the same night . After a few day , I though it was going to set fruit . Looking at it today I went to give a light squeeze and it felt mushy . Seem light it about to fall of the DF plant . I'm about to pull the hold plant out and start over with well know self pollenate varieties or should I just leave it ?I wasted almost four years growing purple haze and physical graffiti thinking it will set fruit on its own(came from a very reputable source). I ripped the darn thing out last year. The common Vietnamese white dragon will NOT flower(at least mine) the same time as those colorful flesh ones for me to pollinate.
Can you ship me some S8 cutting . Just don't tell the post office its live plants. I will pay for your cutting and shipping .
And if anyone is still looking for plants, I do still have S-8 cuttings for people in the area. I don't ship them much anymore as I got in trouble with the post office once for shipping live plant materials out of California without a permit
I just spent another $80 on cutting American beauty , Delight, physical graffiti, Dark Star,.Here I go again . Ok I was able to cross pollenate my DF with fresh pollen from another varieties. That bloom the same night . After a few day , I though it was going to set fruit . Looking at it today I went to give a light squeeze and it felt mushy . Seem light it about to fall of the DF plant . I'm about to pull the hold plant out and start over with well know self pollenate varieties or should I just leave it ?I wasted almost four years growing purple haze and physical graffiti thinking it will set fruit on its own(came from a very reputable source). I ripped the darn thing out last year. The common Vietnamese white dragon will NOT flower(at least mine) the same time as those colorful flesh ones for me to pollinate.
Ive found that heat is the biggest problem I have with developing flower buds. Once they get to a certain size they become a little more tolerant to weather. Ive had entire waves of flowers wiped out due to a few days of 100-ish degree weather where I live in So Cal. From pea sized to thumb sized, gone in a flash due to heat. If it gets bad, only thing you can do is shade your plants. The ambient air temperature alone isn't enough to do damage, but when you combine that with direct solar heating of the stems and the flower buds, you can be looking at surface temperatures of 120 degrees or more on bright days. And the darker green your plants are, the worse it gets, as the dark foliage absorbs more combined spectrum light, and with it, more heat. Setting up a shade umbrella or tarp will make a big difference.
BTW, Ive never noticed rain (or watering, for that matter) to bother flower buds. It can interfere with the pollinating process if the flower is open and gets wet, though.
Here some of DF . I cross pollenate a few days ago with fresh pollen from other varieties. They fell mush when squeezing them .Its a little to early to tell for sure but it appears from the bottom picture that you should get fruit from that flower. The flower stems are supposed to wither and dry up, but the base, where its connected to the plant, appears to be solid and green, and that part is the actual fruit. When you notice the 'scales' at the bottom start to spread out or open up, like that picture shows, its a good sign of fruit set. Those scales widen out and the center of that mass expands. In some varieties, the fruit will keep the lengths of the scales, and in others, as the fruit grows, the scales will shorten, almost like they were being absorbed back into the fruit. Id give your fruit another week before you worry about if its been properly fertilized.
(http://s33.postimg.cc/4z9dykrln/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/4z9dykrln/)
(http://s33.postimg.cc/4xuurf0e3/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/4xuurf0e3/)
Here some of DF . I cross pollenate a few days ago with fresh pollen from other varieties. They fell mush when squeezing them .Its a little to early to tell for sure but it appears from the bottom picture that you should get fruit from that flower. The flower stems are supposed to wither and dry up, but the base, where its connected to the plant, appears to be solid and green, and that part is the actual fruit. When you notice the 'scales' at the bottom start to spread out or open up, like that picture shows, its a good sign of fruit set. Those scales widen out and the center of that mass expands. In some varieties, the fruit will keep the lengths of the scales, and in others, as the fruit grows, the scales will shorten, almost like they were being absorbed back into the fruit. Id give your fruit another week before you worry about if its been properly fertilized.
(http://s33.postimg.cc/4z9dykrln/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/4z9dykrln/)
(http://s33.postimg.cc/4xuurf0e3/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/4xuurf0e3/)
And on a side note, I don't think you should ever cut away the withering flower parts of the fruit once you have a fruit set. They do get mushy, yellow and look bad for a bit, but will eventually dry up and become rather small, at which point you can either leave them be or snap them off by hand. The problem with removing the flower stem prematurely is it opens up a small hollow area at the end of the fruit. Much like the navel in a navel orange, and if the fruit is still young it can be more vulnerable to insects and disease until the skin fully matures.
(https://s32.postimg.cc/vsord5ac1/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vsord5ac1/)
This so called "yellow dragon" cutting is confusing me. The new growth on it is different compared to the original cutting. It's width is 2xs that of the original and the scallops looks kinda different. Can this even happen!?
I hope I wasn't sent the wrong variety. I would be so disappointed. =(
(https://s32.postimg.cc/vsord5ac1/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vsord5ac1/)
This so called "yellow dragon" cutting is confusing me. The new growth on it is different compared to the original cutting. It's width is 2xs that of the original and the scallops looks kinda different. Can this even happen!?
I hope I wasn't sent the wrong variety. I would be so disappointed. =(
Which "yellow dragon" variety did you think you ordered?
That's no Megalanthus. Who was the seller?
Always disappointing when you buy something and you don't receive what you expected. Has happened to me 3 times with dragonfruit cuttings. Waited 2-3 years to find out I'd benn duped. If you want quality cuttings, check out www.mattslandscape.com (http://www.mattslandscape.com) . They will look after you. If you have the space, keep that plant. It may turn out to be something good or you could just use it for pollen.
I've tried several times trying to order from mattslandscape but it never lets me check out.
My next stop is to order from etsy. I found a seller from there that has the yellow dragon. Just that they currently don't have it in stock. Now I'm just wondering if it's worth growing since I'm not sure how it grows in the Bay Area cause I heard this variety is really picky and I have limited space.
I have two pink graffiti dragon fruits that I bought and grew from cuttings. I've had them for at least 2 years now and neither of them have done any vining and only one of them has put out a single branch. What am I doing wrong?
I've tried several times trying to order from mattslandscape but it never lets me check out.
My next stop is to order from etsy. I found a seller from there that has the yellow dragon. Just that they currently don't have it in stock. Now I'm just wondering if it's worth growing since I'm not sure how it grows in the Bay Area cause I heard this variety is really picky and I have limited space.
Try Mattslandscape's www.epicacti.com (http://www.epicacti.com) for ordering. Matt also sells under different names on eBay and Amazon.
Yeah, well, I live in southern Michigan sadly. The plants are taken in every winter and kept under intense grow lights and watered not too regularly. I even have applied cacti fertilizer to no avail. I can post pics if needed but I would just like them to grow... I have seen other northern tropical fruit growers like one person from Pennsylvania actually have several large fruiting dragon fruit and I still have these little twerps. I might-as-well buy new cuttings at this stage.I have two pink graffiti dragon fruits that I bought and grew from cuttings. I've had them for at least 2 years now and neither of them have done any vining and only one of them has put out a single branch. What am I doing wrong?
Maybe it has something to do with where in the World you live... A land that makes difficult growing any manner of edible flora.
(https://s32.postimg.cc/v00i3q4pt/20160116_162023.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/v00i3q4pt/)
This is what the branch of the Megalanthus should look like. Inverted scalloping on the branches, thinner stalks and woody, almost rose-like thorns. What you have almost looks like Physical Graffiti or another pink variety. BTW, just as a side note, Ive all but given up on growing Megalanthus at my house. Its a fussy plant, disease prone (at least here) and doesn't seem to want to flower for me. And while ive found the fruit to be very sweet, I wouldn't call it flavorful. Like comparing sugar water to lemonade. I prefer to the fruit to have more texture to the flavor, and theres a wide range of that available. Besides, I'm also not really sold on the visual aspect of Megallanthus either; something about the translucent meat of the fruit weirds me out a bit.
If you were in the area Id gladly give you some cuttings for free, as I'm cutting out what I have left of the yellows anyways. Perhaps I can even ship you some if you'd like. Send me a personal message here on the board and we can discuss it, if you're interested.
So my DF has root was rotted . Thanks to a forum member for letting me know what wrong with my DF. I decided to yank it up and the tip of the root are rotted. Can I take a scissors and trim the rotted root part off and replanted ?
Thanks
Yes, let it callus over, only wet the soil once, put the cutting a few inches in, then stake it. I put a plastic bag over the top with a few more stakes to hold the plastic above the cutting and place in the shade. Just don't water it until the roots take.So my DF has root was rotted . Thanks to a forum member for letting me know what wrong with my DF. I decided to yank it up and the tip of the root are rotted. Can I take a scissors and trim the rotted root part off and replanted ?
Thanks
Yes trim it off and let the cut part callus over before replanting
I had thought I was sent a immature cutting. ={ Why can't some nurseries get their act together. Oh well, if it's physical graffiti that they "accidently " sent me, I'll take it cause that was on my list too. Just due to space issue , I was holding off on it.
I had thought I was sent a immature cutting. ={ Why can't some nurseries get their act together. Oh well, if it's physical graffiti that they "accidently " sent me, I'll take it cause that was on my list too. Just due to space issue , I was holding off on it.
There are lots of Dragon Fruit whose cuttings "looks like" Physical Graffiti.
You cannot assume that you have a real Physical Graffiti clone cutting.
:-(
There are lots of Dragon Fruit whose cuttings "looks like" Physical Graffiti.
You cannot assume that you have a real Physical Graffiti clone cutting.
:-(
That's why it sucks =(
I wish there were a easier way to identify different varieties but I know that's Impossible and the only way to be sure is if you get it to fruit. :(
But I've looked back onto their site and they only sell unnamed pink, purple, red and white varieties and the yellow Meg. So I guess I got either one of those sent to me beside the one I had ordered..... Hahaha
Now I got a guessing game for myself and only time will tell what I've been sent =)
S-8 is by far the easiest to grow for me, and the most hearty, and has, what I consider to be the best tasting fruit. I only wish the fruits were larger, which is the plant's only real downside. you can get 100 fruit or more per plant a season once its a mature size, but in weight, its the same as getting 30-40 on a plant that produces 1lb size fruits. But the flavor is amazing, not just the sweetness. I use it for making ice cream, sauces of cooking, smoothies, etc. and I'm going to be experimenting this year with jams, jellies and syrups. Plus, the plant has the more woody thorns, like the megalanthus does, and that makes it easier to grow because you don't have to worry about constant pin-pricks from needle-like thorns.
I also have a red variety which is either Orejona or Cebra (seen the same plant with both names, and ones wrong), Physical Graffiti, Haleys Comet, a bunch of American Beauty, an experimental red variety which I think is a Costaricensis, a white seed grown that the folks at Elk Creek created, and a bunch of other random plants, either unknown names or started from seed, one of which is mature this year, and I can finally nail down some characteristics about it, hopefully. Since all my plants are bunched together, its getting hard to keep track of what I have, and what fruit came from what plant.
I can probably send you S-8 cuttings also, if you don't mind covering the cost of a USPS flat rate box. Again, you can contact me directly if youre interested.
There are lots of Dragon Fruit whose cuttings "looks like" Physical Graffiti.
You cannot assume that you have a real Physical Graffiti clone cutting.
:-(
That's why it sucks =(
I wish there were a easier way to identify different varieties but I know that's Impossible and the only way to be sure is if you get it to fruit. :(
But I've looked back onto their site and they only sell unnamed pink, purple, red and white varieties and the yellow Meg. So I guess I got either one of those sent to me beside the one I had ordered..... Hahaha
Now I got a guessing game for myself and only time will tell what I've been sent =)
You can't positively identify that it is Physical Graffiti by looking at or tasting the fruit. There are several DF fruit "looks like" Physical Graffiti.
The only way to positively identify a Physical Graffiti plant/cutting is with DNA sequencing. :-\
There are lots of Dragon Fruit whose cuttings "looks like" Physical Graffiti.
You cannot assume that you have a real Physical Graffiti clone cutting.
:-(
That's why it sucks =(
I wish there were a easier way to identify different varieties but I know that's Impossible and the only way to be sure is if you get it to fruit. :(
But I've looked back onto their site and they only sell unnamed pink, purple, red and white varieties and the yellow Meg. So I guess I got either one of those sent to me beside the one I had ordered..... Hahaha
Now I got a guessing game for myself and only time will tell what I've been sent =)
You can't positively identify that it is Physical Graffiti by looking at or tasting the fruit. There are several DF fruit "looks like" Physical Graffiti.
The only way to positively identify a Physical Graffiti plant/cutting is with DNA sequencing. :-\
That is such a hassle for a small grower like me. 😖
I guess if someone's a avid collector, that would be feasible.
I guess I'll just be happy as long as it tastes good instead of having a bland flavor. 😊
There are lots of Dragon Fruit whose cuttings "looks like" Physical Graffiti.
You cannot assume that you have a real Physical Graffiti clone cutting.
:-(
That's why it sucks =(
I wish there were a easier way to identify different varieties but I know that's Impossible and the only way to be sure is if you get it to fruit. :(
But I've looked back onto their site and they only sell unnamed pink, purple, red and white varieties and the yellow Meg. So I guess I got either one of those sent to me beside the one I had ordered..... Hahaha
Now I got a guessing game for myself and only time will tell what I've been sent =)
You can't positively identify that it is Physical Graffiti by looking at or tasting the fruit. There are several DF fruit "looks like" Physical Graffiti.
The only way to positively identify a Physical Graffiti plant/cutting is with DNA sequencing. :-\
That is such a hassle for a small grower like me. 😖
I guess if someone's a avid collector, that would be feasible.
I guess I'll just be happy as long as it tastes good instead of having a bland flavor. 😊
You do what you need to do, but my advice to other small growers, new to Dragon Fruit, is to not waste years on seedlings or cuttings to see if the fruit tastes good. IMO better to obtain cuttings of known good tasting varieties from reliable source. Also make sure you start with at least two varieties that can cross pollinate. Physical Graffiti is a good choice for one variety.
Totally agree with your advice 😊
I wish I had know found a reputable source earlier and this wonderful forum where everyone here is so helpful with their advice.
But since I already wasted money and time on it already might as well wait. But I'm glad I have the Thompson variety which I've been told is a great one for pollination and purple haze to keep me busy for a while.
In the meanwhile , I might slowly weed out this unknown variety as soon as I can make more space and see how the others are growing for me cause I know not all climates are suitable for growing this fruit.
So new growers , please heed Ric's advice. 😊
Totally agree with your advice
I wish I had know found a reputable source earlier and this wonderful forum where everyone here is so helpful with their advice.
But since I already wasted money and time on it already might as well wait. But I'm glad I have the Thompson variety which I've been told is a great one for pollination and purple haze to keep me busy for a while.
In the meanwhile , I might slowly weed out this unknown variety as soon as I can make more space and see how the others are growing for me cause I know not all climates are suitable for growing this fruit.
So new growers , please heed Ric's advice.
If you have a Thompson variety and Purple Haze and an unknown variety, then you are on your way to success getting good fruit in a couple of years. :)
Keep the unknown variety for pollen source... "Purple Haze" is reported to be Thomson 5-S.
[snipped quote and photo]
Looks a lot like the one I bought from Lowe's yesterday! But yours appears to have three plants in the pot, whereas mine has only two.
BTW, is that plant with the buds on it your 'white' fruit variety?
This is what my garden looked like at the beginning of the season:
(https://s31.postimg.cc/hgvnld3xj/DSCN1525.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/hgvnld3xj/)
This is S-8 on the left, Haley's Comet on the right
(https://s32.postimg.cc/6kyr90nvl/DSCN1524.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6kyr90nvl/)
G-2 Guatemalan variety on the right, more S-8 to the left
(https://s31.postimg.cc/3x4nxqg7b/DSCN1526.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3x4nxqg7b/)
The jungle of random dragon fruit
(https://s32.postimg.cc/3pugseaz5/DSCN1529.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3pugseaz5/)
And from the other end
(https://s31.postimg.cc/tde3dz19j/20160426_160503.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/tde3dz19j/)
And this is hopefully what your S-8 cutting looks like, dark green with the rosy thorns.
I'm not familiar with that pink variety but given that a lot of varieties need to be cross pollinated for successful fruit set, you should keep an eye out for other dragonfruit flowering in your neighbourhood just in case you want some pollen.
The parents and grandparent of my Lomita White are about 15 minutes away, on my drive to work. I'll have to check with the residents of both houses to see if I can trespass at midnight during pollination season.
The good news is that I drove by this morning, and both plants have buds on them that are about the same size as those on my La Verne Pink, so these two varieties are calendar-compatible.
They're all cuttings, so they're all genetically identical. But my Lomita White is probably at least a year from flowering, so I need to find a mature plant elsewhere from which to pollinate my La Verne Pink this year.By "parents and grandparent" of your Lomita White, does that mean grown from a seed?
The parents and grandparent of my Lomita White are about 15 minutes away, on my drive to work. I'll have to check with the residents of both houses to see if I can trespass at midnight during pollination season.
The good news is that I drove by this morning, and both plants have buds on them that are about the same size as those on my La Verne Pink, so these two varieties are calendar-compatible.
If grown from a "cutting" then the "parent" flower pollen will genetically the same as your Lomita White flower.
They're all cuttings, so they're all genetically identical. But my Lomita White is probably at least a year from flowering, so I need to find a mature plant elsewhere from which to pollinate my La Verne Pink this year.By "parents and grandparent" of your Lomita White, does that mean grown from a seed?
The parents and grandparent of my Lomita White are about 15 minutes away, on my drive to work. I'll have to check with the residents of both houses to see if I can trespass at midnight during pollination season.
The good news is that I drove by this morning, and both plants have buds on them that are about the same size as those on my La Verne Pink, so these two varieties are calendar-compatible.
If grown from a "cutting" then the "parent" flower pollen will genetically the same as your Lomita White flower.
In future years I should be OK, at least for these two.
When does Physical Graffiti flower, typically?
What about Megalanthus?
I just remembered that there'sonetwo more dragon fruit plants that I know of, inManhattanBeach. I'll have to do a drive-by during lunch tomorrow.
So here are my 4 DFs and my 5 beehives behind them:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/DragonFruitAndHives.jpg)
If you do happen to need pollen from someone else's dragonfruit, it's always worth offering to pollinate their flowers at the same time. Return the favour so to keep everyone happy and I'm sure they would be stoked to see dragonfruit on their own plant. Especially if it hadn't produced before.
What about Megalanthus?
How much time do I have? If my oldest buds are about an inch long today, how long until they are likely to bloom? Do I have days or weeks? This photo sequence (https://apartmentfarmer.wordpress.com/2015/10/09/dragonfruit-timeline-flower-to-fruit/) suggests that it takes off very quickly once it reaches some critical stage.
You probably have about 2 weeks before a 1 inch long bud opens as a flower (at least in Florida you would).
You probably have about 2 weeks before a 1 inch long bud opens as a flower (at least in Florida you would).
Thank you for sharing, Rob!
I've been wondering if there is a reputable source that lists each variety's pollination needs: cross pollination, self-pollinating, self-fertile... Some online sources are self-conflicting :'(
If youre ever in the area of city of Ontario (where the Interstate 15 meets Hwy 60) Id be more than happy to pass along some pollen to you. . . .
(https://s31.postimg.cc/8wnp0lw5z/20160713_065351.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8wnp0lw5z/)
OK so i mis-calculated a bit... but, the plant figured out a way to grab some sun and i helped it a bit.
(https://s32.postimg.cc/q4b0v4f69/Swag1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/q4b0v4f69/)
Sorry if this photo is a bit primitive, IM not one of those photoshop kinda guys. If you want to support those shoots, easiest thing you can do is get a few sturdy 'Eye' bolts and screw them into the eve and run a loose loop of THICK burlap rope between them to act as a sling. You could also use wire rope, if your handy with hardware, for strength, but you'll need to make sure to sheath it in some sort of hose or tube, both for heat and thin wire cutting into the plants.
Or, if you want to go a little more advanced, you can add a rose trellis on that side, against the wall, to give you something to tie to. Either way, youre going to want your new shoots brought more out into the sunlight.
When I collect my pollen, its JUST the pollen. I shake it loose from the flowers and harvest it that way. Then I air dry it out a bit to minimize the damage caused by ice crystals forming, then into the freezer it goes. Its the drying part that makes freezing much more successful.
This is one nights collection, from about a dozen S-8 flowers, after I did my rounds pollinating the other species that happened to be in bloom that night.
You can probably pollinate 100 flowers with what I harvest each night
Here are my pollinating tools:
(https://s32.postimg.cc/fmafafzs1/DSCN1562.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/fmafafzs1/)
I just bought an Edgar's Baby dragonfruit from wellspring, but i can't find too much info on it online. Does anyone know if it's self-pollinating or other aspects of its culture? Thanks.
I just bought an Edgar's Baby dragonfruit from wellspring, but i can't find too much info on it online. Does anyone know if it's self-pollinating or other aspects of its culture? Thanks.
It came from a cutting given to your source. Named after the person who gave your source the cutting. Not much information on it. Most likely not self-pollinating.
The first, and most important, is the collector. Its just a cheap scoop, like you would use for ice or rice (etc) that Ive cut down a little to match the shape of the inside of the average flower, although ive used many other things in the past. A small, clear or darkly colored plate, like a tea cup plate, works well too and is a good size. I like glass or dark colors because it helps to see the pollen on the surface once you have it. I just stick my collector into the flower, under all the anthers but inside the pedals, as far as I can get without harming the flower, and literally just shake or tap on the flower. As long as you get to the flower before the bees and bugs strip it clean, the pollen will sprinkle right off and onto your collector, and you'll have pure pollen to use, without any extra flower parts to sort out. On my self fertile plants, like the S-8, when I collect the pollen I also take hold of the female stamen and dip it down into the pollen Ive collected, just to make sure theres good pollen contact. You wont hurt the flower or fruit production by doing this, but avoid touching the pollen itself, as the oil on your fingers can make it unviable.
I got Yellow Dragon fruit (S. Megalanthus) seeds from Trade Winds Fruit. I put them in my seed starting system and I saw a dicot pop up! I thought the first one might be an anomaly (wrong seed in the package), but then the next ones popped up as dicots. So then I thought I got mis-labeled seeds. Then I forgot about it for a week, and today I checked back and I do indeed see dragon fruit thorns starting to pop out. (see below)
I am really surprised! Are all dragon fruit seedlings dicots?
I started some apple cactus seeds and there were not any 'leaves' at all. It just started forming like a lump with thorns and then got bigger. I would have expected dragon fruit seedlings to behave the same way.
(https://s31.postimg.cc/6f5a0gqdz/df3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6f5a0gqdz/)
I just bought an Edgar's Baby dragonfruit from wellspring, but i can't find too much info on it online. Does anyone know if it's self-pollinating or other aspects of its culture? Thanks.
It came from a cutting given to your source. Named after the person who gave your source the cutting. Not much information on it. Most likely not self-pollinating.
I purchased the plant from wellspring, and Edgar's Baby seems to be a legitimate variety selected by Edgar Valdiva from what I found online, it seems a lot of places sell the plant. I was wondering if anyone else has had the opportunity to grow the plant and what their experience has been?
What about taking a neighborhood friend out for breakfast / lunch / dinner and sweet-talk him / her to do it hahahah.Unfortunately for me the only people I know in the area are my ex-wife and ex-girlfriend, neither of whom are inclined to provide me any botanical help. At least I don't think so. Maybe if I offer her a cutting…
Edgar Valdivia is one of the most known 'breeders' of dragon fruit in the community. He's been working on cross breeding and general plant knowledge since long before I gained interest in the hobby. He gives 'lectures' regularly at the Southern California dragon fruit festival on care and development of the plants, and fruit. Edgar's Baby is one of his better known plants he has created (Valdivia Roja being another) and is quite well received as I understand it.
(https://s32.postimg.cc/8w3mgm4yp/Perrier_Pollen_Collector2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8w3mgm4yp/)
The ideal shape for inserting into a flower is an open hand, palm up. If you remove the rest of the area I marked that should do just fine. The stamen vary in length sometimes and you want to have as much open area to capture as possible. BTW, the plastic bottle is a great idea for a collector. I will be sure to use that as an example for people in the future when they bring it up.
Here was the Manhattan Beach flower on Monday night:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/ManhattanBeachFlower071816.jpg)
From everything else I've seen online, she's going to pop tomorrow! And the flower to the left should pop 3 days hence.It popped tonight, as planned!
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/PerrierPollenCollector2.jpg)
I might reconsider the use of a Perrier bottle. It's a 3 layers of laminated plastic (http://www.plasticsnews.com/article/20040517/NEWS/305179956/perrier-in-plastic), and once you start cutting it it delaminates. But you can't just remove the inner layers because they're tightly joined at the neck. Maybe I'll buy a bottle of Sprite tonight and try that.
Trimmed:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/PerrierPollenCollector2.jpg)
I might reconsider the use of a Perrier bottle. It's a 3 layers of laminated plastic (http://www.plasticsnews.com/article/20040517/NEWS/305179956/perrier-in-plastic), and once you start cutting it it delaminates. But you can't just remove the inner layers because they're tightly joined at the neck. Maybe I'll buy a bottle of Sprite tonight and try that.
I'm not positive, but I think you can cross pollinate dragon fruit (pitahaya) and apple cactus (pitaya) and get fruit. The seeds might produce a wonky hybrid but the fruit flesh itself should match the flower producing plant species.Actually, Edger V. did just that he has used epi& columnar cactus flowers to hand pollinate DF.
I have been watching this thread and have seen that a lot of member have gained a lot of experience in the last 4-5 years, Now I need some advise.
I'm exploring dragon fruit as a plan B for my avocado grove may be only partially. 2-3 acres out of the 20.
I want to star experimenting in the cultivation of dragon fruit. I'm removing some citrus I have with a length of 100' and will have at least 15" on each side.
What kind of set up would you do, how high and what materials to use.
What varieties would be better for Homestead.
Planted on the ground or in containers?
Also I have two concrete container in the corners of my patio at home. They get a lot of sun. Seem like a 20 gal capacity, they weight a ton. Pictures attached.
What type of support would you use on these pots? What varieties would you plant? Soil to use?
Any help would be appreciated, including rooted cuttings I can buy.
(https://s32.postimg.cc/xyrr4f5b5/IMG_1488.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/xyrr4f5b5/)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/4g5wlw0jr/IMG_1487.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4g5wlw0jr/)
HELP!! Due to my inexperience I was not aware that one of my DF flower is dangerously close to blooming... possibly blooming tonight?!!!!
Is physical graffiti self pollinating or not? (some say yes some say no) Does anyone in San Gabriel Valley (SoCal) have extra pollens? :'(
I have been watching this thread and have seen that a lot of member have gained a lot of experience in the last 4-5 years, Now I need some advise.IMO, containers are always the best way to go. 15 gallon minimum, 20-25 if you can get them cheap. You don't want to fill them more than 75% capacity, and you want tp make sure they have proper drainage. Larger containers will allow for multiple plant starts per: 15 gal for one, 25 for 2, more for more, etc. Soil should be loose, sandy or gravely, and have something mixed in to help retain moisture without getting soggy. You don't want wet soil, but you don't really want extended periods of totally dry soil either. I try and use 1 part garden soil, 1 part coarse sand, one part bark nuggets (as small as you can find) and whatever else you can afford to toss in after that (peat moss, perlite, moisture control crystals, etc)., depending on your budget.
I'm exploring dragon fruit as a plan B for my avocado grove may be only partially. 2-3 acres out of the 20.
I want to star experimenting in the cultivation of dragon fruit. I'm removing some citrus I have with a length of 100' and will have at least 15" on each side.
What kind of set up would you do, how high and what materials to use.
What varieties would be better for Homestead.
Planted on the ground or in containers?
Also I have two concrete container in the corners of my patio at home. They get a lot of sun. Seem like a 20 gal capacity, they weight a ton. Pictures attached.
What type of support would you use on these pots? What varieties would you plant? Soil to use?
Any help would be appreciated, including rooted cuttings I can buy.
Richard, you have a serious amount of wood for that last trellis design.
I'm always concerned about the central wood rotting from water, so mine is more of a scaffold for the tops of a row of plants to drape over. The supports are at the ends of the row and I don't water there. Termites etc. could still get them I suppose.
IMO, containers are always the best way to go. 15 gallon minimum, 20-25 if you can get them cheap. You don't want to fill them more than 75% capacity, and you want to make sure they have proper drainage. Larger containers will allow for multiple plant starts per: 15 gal for one, 25 for 2, more for more, etc.
And here it was tonight, Wednesday, at 9:45 PM
Unfortunately my own flower is still 7-8 days away as of tonight:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/LaVernePinkFlower1_072016.jpg)
It popped on Tuesday night! The only night that I was able to pollinate it! I brushed on the pollen I gathered from the Lomita White last week. Fingers crossed!
Rick, on one local tour with CRFG chapter we went to avocado farm inland up on hill from Morro bay he is advised by Jay Rusky and he had DF planted beneath some of his avocado's which were pruned heavily and training DF to grow into lower tree branches ( lower branches were trimmed out) very interesting indeed.Richard, you have a serious amount of wood for that last trellis design.
I'm always concerned about the central wood rotting from water, so mine is more of a scaffold for the tops of a row of plants to drape over. The supports are at the ends of the row and I don't water there. Termites etc. could still get them I suppose.
Not my trellis design.
See Reply #1682 on July 10th, 2016.
I figured using redwood to build and setting on concrete patio it would last a reasonable time.
Because I have the same concerns as you, I have been building my trellis out of concrete or steel, but not as easy to build. I have also used live avocado trees for support.
Rick, on one local tour with CRFG chapter we went to avocado farm inland up on hill from Morro bay he is advised by Jay Rusky and he had DF planted beneath some of his avocado's which were pruned heavily and training DF to grow into lower tree branches ( lower branches were trimmed out) very interesting indeed.
The part I don't understand is that unless you kill the tree in about 3 months you are going to have a lot of water shoots covering the pitaya. Unless you continually remove water shoots. Can be a lot of work or kill the tree.
Yeah 2.5 flowers in bloom right now and my generous friend gave me pollen! Double YEAH!!There are a few reasons not to fill a pot all the way to the top. First, is watering. When I water I tend to mix in fertilizers in the water, especially when its time to add phosphorus for blooming. When I mix water soluble fertilizers, I do it a gallon at a time, then poor that gallon right into the pot. The extra space keeps all the water in the pot and allows for it to be absorbed evenly across the entire surface, rather than trickling it in to a single spot in the soil. Also, when it rains it will allow for more rain water to be captured, which is healthier for plants than tap water. The other main reason, for me anyways, is I also use time release fertilizers, especially in fall/winter for between fruiting season health of the plant, and what I do is sprinkle a layer of the fertilizer in the pot, then cover it with mulch or topsoil, so I don't have to 'scratch' the fertilizer into the soil. Dragon fruit tends to have VERY shallow roots and you risk damaging them if you try to use garden tools to loosen the top inch of existing soil in the container. Its easier to just add a bit more 'dirt' each year, but you need room to do it. Once your pot has reached the top lip, it makes all manner of things more complicated, trust me, I'm speaking from experience.IMO, containers are always the best way to go. 15 gallon minimum, 20-25 if you can get them cheap. You don't want to fill them more than 75% capacity, and you want to make sure they have proper drainage. Larger containers will allow for multiple plant starts per: 15 gal for one, 25 for 2, more for more, etc.
This is what I've always wanted to find out. But I've already squeezed 2 or 3 plants into each 15 gallon pot so too late!
Why not fill the pot for more than 75%? It's not the first time I heard this and been curious about it!
The part I don't understand is that unless you kill the tree in about 3 months you are going to have a lot of water shoots covering the pitaya. Unless you continually remove water shoots. Can be a lot of work or kill the tree.
I guess "not doing well" means the avocado tree was struggling a lot anyways?
I have a topped avocado tree used as support of my lopsided orange tree. It's barely ever doing anything.
For support you might try something like this:I'm pretty happy with how the bottom part turned out, and with the overall strength. I'm 220#, and I can hang from the top supports without any scary creaky sounds. It should be able to handle whatever grows through it.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/LaVernePink22Months.jpg)
(http://s16.postimage.org/6z3wi50td/IMAG0061.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6z3wi50td/)
Yeah 2.5 flowers in bloom right now and my generous friend gave me pollen! Double YEAH!!I'm probably under-potted as well. I'm using these approximately 11 gallon (http://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/geometry-solids/conicalfrustum.php) terra cotta pots from Home Depot because they're cheap (http://www.homedepot.com/p/PR-Imports-19-in-Round-Terra-Cotta-Clay-Vase-V20P/202532448). My La Verne Pink has 4 stems in that pot, of which 1 is currently fruiting. The other stems were pruning from the main stem so they're a year or more behind the main stem. I planted them more for insurance purposes than for yield.IMO, containers are always the best way to go. 15 gallon minimum, 20-25 if you can get them cheap. You don't want to fill them more than 75% capacity, and you want to make sure they have proper drainage. Larger containers will allow for multiple plant starts per: 15 gal for one, 25 for 2, more for more, etc.This is what I've always wanted to find out. But I've already squeezed 2 or 3 plants into each 15 gallon pot so too late!
Why not fill the pot for more than 75%? It's not the first time I heard this and been curious about it!
The extra space keeps all the water in the pot and allows for it to be absorbed evenly across the entire surface, rather than trickling it in to a single spot in the soil.I'm having this exact problem in all my potted plants right now. I'm have a timered drip system in place, and the drippers just . . . drip . . . in one place. In fact I can see that the soil is a different color in the one place that gets dripped on.
Yeah 2.5 flowers in bloom right now and my generous friend gave me pollen! Double YEAH!!I'm probably under-potted as well. I'm using these approximately 11 gallon (http://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/geometry-solids/conicalfrustum.php) terra cotta pots from Home Depot because they're cheap (http://www.homedepot.com/p/PR-Imports-19-in-Round-Terra-Cotta-Clay-Vase-V20P/202532448). My La Verne Pink has 4 stems in that pot, of which 1 is currently fruiting. The other stems were pruning from the main stem so they're a year or more behind the main stem. I planted them more for insurance purposes than for yield.IMO, containers are always the best way to go. 15 gallon minimum, 20-25 if you can get them cheap. You don't want to fill them more than 75% capacity, and you want to make sure they have proper drainage. Larger containers will allow for multiple plant starts per: 15 gal for one, 25 for 2, more for more, etc.This is what I've always wanted to find out. But I've already squeezed 2 or 3 plants into each 15 gallon pot so too late!
Why not fill the pot for more than 75%? It's not the first time I heard this and been curious about it!
Describe "cheap", you can go to CPS and get 15's for $3 and change.
Does anyone know where these brown decaying spots come from? I get them on a certain percentage of my fruit and it makes them look really ugly. I personally don't care if the fruit looks perfect if I were going to eat them myself but I usually give the premium fruit to friends and family and I don't want to give these fruit with a rotting hole in them.To be honest that looks like one of the fins, or scales, on the fruit withered down to hit the main body. The other scales have some withering also, but not as progressed. Its either bacterial/ fungal or heat damage, or a combination of the two. The same mechanic that allows dead stem flesh to progress down (or up) a branch, consuming the stem as it goes might be at work there. I have a lot of fruit that look like they've been grazed with a torch here, with shriveled tips on the fins, but the damage hasn't progressed down onto the actual fruit. I do use the occasional anti-fungal here, from time to time, so that might be what's keeping further damage from happening.
I assume it's from fungal damage but it can also be stink bug damage, I'm just guessing at this point. I thought it could be damage from the dried up flowers absorbing moisture creating a good moist environment for fungus so I started removing all the dried up blooms and I still get them. Thanks for any help.
Simon
(https://s32.postimg.cc/svlw4fmtt/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/svlw4fmtt/)
Just get some heavy steel construction mesh from a hardware store and tack it to the top of your trellis. You should have plenty of support.For support you might try something like this:I'm pretty happy with how the bottom part turned out, and with the overall strength. I'm 220#, and I can hang from the top supports without any scary creaky sounds. It should be able to handle whatever grows through it.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/LaVernePink22Months.jpg)
But I wasn't really thinking very clearly when I made the top a mirror of the bottom. As it is I have to thread the vertical stems through the gaps between the 2 x 4s, and there really isn't much in the way of lateral supports for the horizontal branches. I might nail some 2 x 4s diagonally across the corners of the top supports, but that makes for a funky miter angle.
Due to the way I've nailed these together, disassembly is pretty much impossible.
If I were to do these over again I'd probably do something like what Tim did at the top of his trellises (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=1592.msg21914#msg21914):(http://s16.postimage.org/6z3wi50td/IMAG0061.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6z3wi50td/)
except bigger. Come to think of it, I could use Tim's design both top and bottom. From what I can see it uses less wood and labor.
A friend, an agronomist, familiar with DF made this statement;To be perfectly honest, I don't know if anyone has the experience yet with these plants to discuss what 'maximum production' would be. I do know that I have plants in both containers and in the ground, but with so many other variables like species, amount of sun a water provided, soil conditions from one side of the yard to the other, its hard to make what you could call scientific observations. Besides, maximum production is also a loaded description. Are we talking number of fruit, size of fruit, etc. Do we care about the health of the plant itself, or just the end result of the production. Soil is, of course, the natural habitat for these plants, and left to themselves, they produce very spread out root networks, very close to the surface, because they root to where the water is provided. In pots, the roots dip down further because the water soaks down further.
"Every fruit tree to achieve maximum production needs to have a certain mass of roots.(so far I agree, he added) I'm not sure the DF has it when they are planted in the field in pats, not in the soil."
Implying that more production can be achieved when planted in the ground.
I wonder if anyone has any experience on this.
A friend, an agronomist, familiar with DF made this statement;
"Every fruit tree to achieve maximum production needs to have a certain mass of roots.(so far I agree, he added) I'm not sure the DF has it when they are planted in the field in pots, not in the soil."
Implying that more production can be achieved when planted in the ground.
I wonder if anyone has any experience on this.
I got this fruit yesterday close to lb, good looks, but not too sweet I was expecting more flavor from a red. i checked the brix and it was 12. Any of our more experience member can id this cultivar?
(https://s31.postimg.cc/hv1hzfhmv/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/hv1hzfhmv/)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/z9lq7perr/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/z9lq7perr/)
I got this fruit yesterday close to lb, good looks, but not too sweet I was expecting more flavor from a red. i checked the brix and it was 12. Any of our more experience member can id this cultivar?Add a picture of the plant it came from, close up showing the thorns and shape of the 'branch'. It will help narrow it down.
(https://s31.postimg.cc/hv1hzfhmv/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/hv1hzfhmv/)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/z9lq7perr/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/z9lq7perr/)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/b4l2dl4ev/20160801_135815.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/b4l2dl4ev/)
This is a "Fullerton Purple", which just flowered for the first time, last Thusday. Bought at the Green Scene in 2015 as a foot long cutting. Looking forward to trying it for the first time.
This is a "Fullerton Purple", which just flowered for the first time, last Thusday. Bought at the Green Scene in 2015 as a foot long cutting. Looking forward to trying it for the first time.
This is a "Fullerton Purple", which just flowered for the first time, last Thusday. Bought at the Green Scene in 2015 as a foot long cutting. Looking forward to trying it for the first time.
more random "local" variety names?
Hi friends I show you my first dragon fruits graft...look the small sprout at apex.
(https://s31.postimg.cc/k09kvxel3/IMG_4238.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/k09kvxel3/)
Hi carlos the dragonfruit graft like a cacti...this acelerate the flowering and growth faster....its the same grafting mode like a san pedro cacti...In 10 days the graft you know the results.I think what he means is that by grafting a species you want to grow onto an already established root system you skip the time taken to root a new cutting. This would also be beneficial in larger plants to add a second species onto a larger plant, for both variety and cross pollinating.
That make sense is like top working a tree. I wonder how is done and materials usedHi carlos the dragonfruit graft like a cacti...this acelerate the flowering and growth faster....its the same grafting mode like a san pedro cacti...In 10 days the graft you know the results.I think what he means is that by grafting a species you want to grow onto an already established root system you skip the time taken to root a new cutting. This would also be beneficial in larger plants to add a second species onto a larger plant, for both variety and cross pollinating.
Hello CTMIAMI, there is a bit more information on grafting cactus on this thread. http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=18773.msg242375#msg242375 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=18773.msg242375#msg242375)That make sense is like top working a tree. I wonder how is done and materials usedHi carlos the dragonfruit graft like a cacti...this acelerate the flowering and growth faster....its the same grafting mode like a san pedro cacti...In 10 days the graft you know the results.I think what he means is that by grafting a species you want to grow onto an already established root system you skip the time taken to root a new cutting. This would also be beneficial in larger plants to add a second species onto a larger plant, for both variety and cross pollinating.
It popped on Tuesday night! The only night that I was able to pollinate it! I brushed on the pollen I gathered from the Lomita White last week. Fingers crossed!
I think I have 3 baby dragons to look forward to, 2 of them are on two sides of the same stem extremely close to each other + pointing upward, hoping there will be enough support!!
Yes, and it's not good. 😭It popped on Tuesday night! The only night that I was able to pollinate it! I brushed on the pollen I gathered from the Lomita White last week. Fingers crossed!Have you had a chance to check the results?
I had one flower left, and it bloomed the night I came home, so I pollinated it with the last of my collected pollen. So this is it for this batch of flowers.And apparently I have another batch coming!
I might be wrong, but if I had to make an educated guess, that Df in the first picture is a white variety as well. Almost all whites (and a very few pinks) have that brown stripe on the edges of the branch "blades". Its uncommon in most other varieties. Do you know what type of pollen you used on your first attempt, where none of the flowers set fruit? What is that one supposed to be?I had one flower left, and it bloomed the night I came home, so I pollinated it with the last of my collected pollen. So this is it for this batch of flowers.And apparently I have another batch coming!
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/LaVernePinkSecondBatch.jpg)
I have a 15 buds scattered around the plant. If the same pattern holds about half of them will bloom.
Curiously, my Lomita White appears to have buds as well, which is surprising given the size of the plant:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/LomitaWhiteLessThanOneYear.jpg)
That's 2 cuttings planted less than a year ago. Neither looks nearly the critical mass that's been suggested as minimum size for fruiting. But the cuttings were thick and mature-looking, so they've got some years on them. These do look like flower buds, don't they?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/LomitaWhiteAreTheseBuds.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552590/LomitaWhiteIsThisABud.jpg)
If I'm really lucky they'll all bloom at the same time so I can cross pollinate everyone.
I might be wrong, but if I had to make an educated guess, that Df in the first picture is a white variety as well. Almost all whites (and a very few pinks) have that brown stripe on the edges of the branch "blades". Its uncommon in most other varieties. Do you know what type of pollen you used on your first attempt, where none of the flowers set fruit? What is that one supposed to be?That first photo is from a plant I bought at Lowes, almost 2 years ago (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=228.900). It's supposedly a Pink, grown by La Verne, though it hasn't borne fruit yet, so the jury's out.
As for the other plant showing flower buds, that is common in cuttings. It just means it was a good strong section of the plant, fully mature, and would have set fruit if it were still attached to its mother plant. If you have a solid root system on that one, you should be able to bring them to maturity, weather and other factors permitting.
Describe "cheap", you can go to CPS and get 15's for $3 and change.
What is "CPS"? :-\
Crop Production Services, used to be called Western Farm Supply. Big commercial supply center for Farmers, I know there's on in Fallbrook and all over I think if you look it up. They also have 3.5 cu. Ft bales of Sunshine #4 mix which is peat & perlite low PH soil mix ingredient as well as all size pots up to 100 Gallon for the right price.
Describe "cheap", you can go to CPS and get 15's for $3 and change.
What is "CPS"? :-\
Crop Production Services, used to be called Western Farm Supply.
I've got a couple of these just about ready to pick.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/Cebra/Cebra-1_08-09-16_zpsnzevzob4.jpg)
Looks really great DM! What variety?
Anyone have cebra cuttings to spare? I want some now!I thought Lisa is the same as cebra?
I can swap with Lisa.
If those are Cebra, and its your first time with them, be aware that they are amongst the deepest red of the dragonfruit varieties. The color is so strong that it can sometimes pass through your digestive tract and bladder intact, if you eat a large enough quantity of it, and might lead to a bit of a colorful surprise the next morning in the bathroom. Its not harmful, but it is can be a bit of a shock if you're unaware. My goddaughter called me up the morning after eating 2 whole fruit from my house thinking she was having some sort of allergic reaction. Was a lot funnier to me than it was to her.The person I got the cutting from said it was Cebra, and Rob your description is dead on about the "effects".
I just wanted to point this out, in the event you didn't know. Also, as a side note, Cebra does make a very nice natural food coloring for things like cookies or cakes, and could even possibly be distilled into a purer form for log term storage for that use. It's SUPER red
8)
The cebra photo reminded me about this picture from ebay? listing says "you will receive 1 plant! This variety is Cosmic Blue with Big Blue Blooms!"
(https://s10.postimg.cc/p86k0jd2d/s_l400.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/p86k0jd2d/)
Anyone have cebra cuttings to spare? I want some now!I thought Lisa is the same as cebra?
I can swap with Lisa.
Nothing photo shopped in my photo. The fruit is neater looking earlier while the tips of the fins are still bright green. To me it is almost like it sparkles or something, much different than any others that I have.
DM
As with many new hybrid species, until presented with proper recognition with the government, a hybrid is just a hybrid. The photo is a stock photo and the actual fruit is much more vibrant, yes it is blue on the inside and does have hot pink tips. My Dragon Fruit just bloomed, so the fruit will come soon and I will be posting new pictures from my tree!
http://ucanr.edu/sites/sdsmallfarms/files/197430.pdf (http://ucanr.edu/sites/sdsmallfarms/files/197430.pdf)Anyone have cebra cuttings to spare? I want some now!I thought Lisa is the same as cebra?
I can swap with Lisa.
Do you remember where you heard this from? The description of the fruit does sound like Lisa.
Matt's landscape sells both Lisa and Cebra so I am confused.
My 4 years+ seedling from Vietnam first time with flower buds.Was the fruit the seeds came from purpleish-red and round shaped? The shape of the branches looks like Bien Hoa Red, or American Beauty or another gutamalean variety.
(https://s10.postimg.cc/9xzwumxl1/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/9xzwumxl1/)
I thought Lisa is the same as cebra?
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/2016%20Pitahaya%20Festival_zpsfkgp3btc.jpg)
I registered for just the field day as I live 2 miles from SCREC. I haven't received any specific information about it though. Any idea what time it starts??
From the pitaya workshop in Escondido. Ca
(https://s4.postimg.cc/6jkvplu6x/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6jkvplu6x/)
If I can’t find anyone who has cuttings to share, I am inclined to grow a few dz of seeds out and name one of them “El Monte”.
If I can’t find anyone who has cuttings to share, I am inclined to grow a few dz of seeds out and name one of them “El Monte”.
Anybody living in Southern California should be able to find cuttings.
Corona SA is the name of the packer or grower, not necessarily the name of the cultivar. Typical packing house strategy of not letting the consumer know what it is and packing several varieties under the same labelAnybody living in Southern California should be able to find cuttings.
xshen has an extensive df collection haha. so anyone heard of corona SA? all the new localized names such as corona, fullerton, etc. drive me nuts lol
47 dragon fruits harvested today.DM How do you keep them so clean? Do you have a spray program?
14 Physical Graffiti
13 Dark Star
10 Vietnamese Jaina
10 Unknown types
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/Harvest_08-28-2016_zpsa8xnivxm.jpg)
DM
DM How do you keep them so clean? Do you have a spray program?
Anyway, planning to expand my collection here. Where do you guys get cuttings from? I'm looking to get these.
Hello Fellow TFF! I recently moved to Dunedin Florida and in love with DF. Came from good ole Carolina. I would love to grown some of this Beauty. Anyone around the ST. Pete Clearwater area got any cutting he/she would like to donate???? ::) ::)
47 dragon fruits harvested today.
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n200/dangermouse2006/flowers%20and%20plants/Dragon%20Fruit/Harvest_08-28-2016_zpsa8xnivxm.jpg)
DM How do you keep them so clean? Do you have a spray program?
Actually I don't spray them with anything, didn't do much (if any) fertilizing this year either. Can't say I have had a problem with them looking bad, other than some splitting after days of rain.
DM
My first actual harvest of the year. Had a few sporatic ripeners now and then but this is the first time Ive been able to collect a bunch at one time.Nice. Is that S8 harvest from one tree? can you post a picture to see the size?
(https://s18.postimg.cc/np2t1cx79/DSCN1572.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/np2t1cx79/)
(https://s13.postimg.cc/cgtgolllv/DSCN1573.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/cgtgolllv/)
(https://s21.postimg.cc/8zu2iqtsz/DSCN1574.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8zu2iqtsz/)
The ones on the left are a mixed bag of various pink varieties, with a couple white ones mixed in. On the left is my precious, the S8. Made some dragonfruit jam this year (pro tip: if you try this at home, be VERY careful about the amount of sugar you add. Used the strawberry jam recipe, and cut the sugar in half, still came out WAY too sweet). Friends and family are eagerly awaiting the next harvest.
That's a box of gold at today's retail prices!Or a 2.5 gallon zip-loc bag of dried dragon fruit.
Thanks a lot my fellow Vietnamese brother Khoi. Will be looking forward to it!Hello Fellow TFF! I recently moved to Dunedin Florida and in love with DF. Came from good ole Carolina. I would love to grown some of this Beauty. Anyone around the ST. Pete Clearwater area got any cutting he/she would like to donate???? ::) ::)
I will have some soon that I can give to you. I'm located in Pinellas Park not to far from you. I will let you know when I trim some of my DF.
Thanks
When is the best time to harvest dragon fruits? My first harvest ever (yeah!!) bloomed on 7/27 but the skin was still a little hard when I ate it on 9/9. I am trying to have it ripen on the plant as long as possible yet don't want to risk wasting it.
Tips please!! Thank you so much =D
Anyone worked with this seller? If it is legit, I want to buy it.
Dragon Fruit "Gold Yellow Rooted Cutting" Tree Plant
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dragon-Fruit-Gold-Yellow-Rooted-Cutting-Tree-Plant-/112128028665?hash=item1a1b59eff9:g:pMgAAOSwgmJX0kQ0 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dragon-Fruit-Gold-Yellow-Rooted-Cutting-Tree-Plant-/112128028665?hash=item1a1b59eff9:g:pMgAAOSwgmJX0kQ0)
So what exactly is Yellow Undatus?
This is also Lomita White. I probably won't let it set fruit this year, so as to encourage vine growth. But I'll let it flower so I can use it as a pollen donor.
I don't have any other reliable pollen sources around, so I may take Rob up on his offer of pollen. If I can ever find a free Sunday. Of course I also need to go to Ventura to pick up my Gold Coast mango tree. Some day.
I should probably invest in an 8-S for the future so that I have a universal pollinator. Where's a good place to buy a cutting? Or something more mature?
As for my La Verne Pink, I've tried pollinating it with the Lomita White pollen (4-5 different times from 2 different flowers from 2 different plants, albeit clones of one another), I've tried pollinating it from itself, and I've tried leaving it alone. Out of 30 flowers, none has set fruit...
30 flowers and none set fruit???!!! Ouch. The plant itself must be pretty healthy, otherwise it wouldn't flower so abundantly right?
Excited for Edgar. One of the hybrids he created being sold at Walmart.
Edgar's Baby Dragon Fruit - Hylocereus - Pitaya/Strawberry Pear - 4" Pot
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Edgar-s-Baby-Dragon-Fruit-Hylocereus-Pitaya-Strawberry-Pear-4-Pot/134377513 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Edgar-s-Baby-Dragon-Fruit-Hylocereus-Pitaya-Strawberry-Pear-4-Pot/134377513)
Hirt's also sells through amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/Edgars-Baby-Dragon-Fruit-Hylocereus/dp/B01GXPHNIM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474437199&sr=8-1&keywords=edgar%27s+baby+Hirt%27s+Gardens).
Simon,
Sorry to hear about the loss of fruit to the rats. My local Vons just up the road from you in PQ actually had Yellow Dragonfruit, a Hylocereus undatus like the one shown in Rickshaw's post, on sale! They were of decent size, just under a pound and were labeled a product of Israel.
I did buy one having never tried it before. It was slightly tart without a lot of flavor. It was very interesting, but I didn't like it enough to save any seed.
Excited for Edgar. One of the hybrids he created being sold at Walmart.
Edgar's Baby Dragon Fruit - Hylocereus - Pitaya/Strawberry Pear - 4" Pot
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Edgar-s-Baby-Dragon-Fruit-Hylocereus-Pitaya-Strawberry-Pear-4-Pot/134377513 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Edgar-s-Baby-Dragon-Fruit-Hylocereus-Pitaya-Strawberry-Pear-4-Pot/134377513)
Wow! I would never have expected to see Yellow Undatus being sold at Von's!
I am still looking for a cutting for growing for the interesting factor.
Edgar baby the same as Valdivia rojo? How does this compare to sweet dragon?
I saw and purchased the same at vons. I was not impressed with the Yellow skinned Undatus last time I tried it. I'll report back with results once I cut this one open.
Simon
They're different. Valdivia Roja is not even from Edgar. It's from a farm called Valdivia Ranch in Mexico. Edgar always points that out when talking about it. I like the fruit a lot but it's small and not self fertile.Edgar baby the same as Valdivia rojo? How does this compare to sweet dragon?
I am pretty sure they are different. I have one of each and they seem to grow very differently. Not mature yet so I can't compare the fruit.
They're different. Valdivia Roja is not even from Edgar. It's from a farm called Valdivia Ranch in Mexico. Edgar always points that out when talking about it. I like the fruit a lot but it's small and not self fertile.Edgar baby the same as Valdivia rojo? How does this compare to sweet dragon?
I am pretty sure they are different. I have one of each and they seem to grow very differently. Not mature yet so I can't compare the fruit.
Edgar's baby is a relatively new variety. You guys know more than I do about it.
Makes me wonder why the Israelis are producing so many yellow skinned Undatus.
Need expert help with DF cutting . I'm currently planting some cutting . They were growing great and then all the suddenly the base of the cutting turn yellow and the growth stop. So I took a knife and cut off all the yellow part off the base of cutting . Anyone know what wrong and why the cutting base turn yellow?
Thanks
Sorry Simon I didn't take any picture. The bottom just got mushy and turn yellow. I'm going to take it out and dry it in the sun and repot again .Need expert help with DF cutting . I'm currently planting some cutting . They were growing great and then all the suddenly the base of the cutting turn yellow and the growth stop. So I took a knife and cut off all the yellow part off the base of cutting . Anyone know what wrong and why the cutting base turn yellow?
Thanks
Do you have pictures? Dry out the ends of cuttings before planting in a fast draining soil. Give it bottom heat to speed up root developement. Weather is turning cold, especially at night so bottom heat helps a lot.
Simon
Actually, until it roots, keep it mostly dry, in sandy or loose Unfertilized soil. Pure sand works well, and if you can someplace where theres concrete and sun, put about 2 inches of sand max in a pot, place that on the concrete (or asphalt) and add some water maybe once a week. The concrete 'bed' will help warm the sand and promote growth. Heat, or more specifically, warmth, is a huge help in getting these plants to start rooting. But, if youre starting over, cut off the yellowed portion of the plant, add some rooting hormone, if you have any, and let the fresh cut 'harden' or dry for at least one week. Then, wet the end again, add rooting hormone to the cut, and place in your pot. You want fully draining, sterile soil until you get your roots. Remember, youre not trying to get a plant to grow, youre trying to get a severed piece of plant to realize it's no longer part of the host organism, and that it needs to develop its own rooting system to survive.
Had this pitaya very high brix 18 anyone knows this variety?
(https://s22.postimg.cc/8j6m0rxal/IMG_1323.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8j6m0rxal/)
Had this pitaya very high brix 18 anyone knows this variety?
(https://s22.postimg.cc/8j6m0rxal/IMG_1323.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8j6m0rxal/)
Try and get us some photos of the outside of the plant as well. The organization of the scales, spacing, fruit shape and even the final skin color can tell a lot about the variety. However, based on the size of the seeds compared to the fruit, its either has slightly larger seeds than average OR its possibly Voodoo Child or S8, based on the thin skin and what I can see of the skin color. Was the fruit relatively small, about the size of a goose's egg, and roughtly the same shape, with scales that didn't protrude out but held onto the fruit, like actual reptile scales would?
(https://s21.postimg.cc/jfewc13n7/101_1871.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/jfewc13n7/)
Does anyone know with certainty that Valdivia Roja is self-pollinating just like American Beauty for example?Valdivia Roja for is not self-fertile or self-pollinating. You've got to use pollen from another variety.
Tomas
Arizona purple is the same as S8 or Sugar Dragon. It is a first class fruit.
Is any one in Florida growing Edgar's Baby and Tricia?
These two varieties seem to be mass produced and sold in many places. Probably tissue culture. I find little on Tricia, a little more on Edgar's. Any one has experience with them?
Rick I think Tricia is being mass produced via tissue culture that is why there are so many people selling it on line.
P.S. Because of demand, La Verne is growing a ton of Mango trees for the So Cal masses.
Yea, that's what they've been saying for the last 6 years but seing is believing
P.S. Because of demand, La Verne is growing a ton of Mango trees for the So Cal masses.
Yea, that's what they've been saying for the last 6 years but seing is believing
P.S. Because of demand, La Verne is growing a ton of Mango trees for the So Cal masses.
Yea, that's what they've been saying for the last 6 years but seing is believing
P.S. Because of demand, La Verne is growing a ton of Mango trees for the So Cal masses.
Yea, that's what they've been saying for the last 6 years but seing is believing
You doubt me?
One of manyRick I think Tricia is being mass produced via tissue culture that is why there are so many people selling it on line.
I am not questioning you, but I am curious. Can you provide a link to Tricia being sold online?
Is any one in Florida growing Edgar's Baby and Tricia?
These two varieties seem to be mass produced and sold in many places. Probably tissue culture. I find little on Tricia, a little more on Edgar's. Any one has experience with them?
I am not questioning you, but I am curious. Can you provide a link to Tricia being sold online?
One of many
https://www.etsy.com/listing/481402779/tricia-dragon-fruit-hylocereus?ref=unav_listing-other (https://www.etsy.com/listing/481402779/tricia-dragon-fruit-hylocereus?ref=unav_listing-other)
I am not questioning you, but I am curious. Can you provide a link to Tricia being sold online?
One of many
https://www.etsy.com/listing/481402779/tricia-dragon-fruit-hylocereus?ref=unav_listing-other (https://www.etsy.com/listing/481402779/tricia-dragon-fruit-hylocereus?ref=unav_listing-other)
I shared the above link with Edgar.
Here is Edgar's response:
Hi Richard,
Hope you and your family had a wonderful Thanksgiving.
Thank you for the email about the nursery selling Tricia. I have no idea who the owners are or how they got a cutting of Tricia.
But, I am very sure it was done through tissue culture.
I hope it is the real Tricia, because it is a really great tasting fruit. I am very glad they are selling it, so at least more people will be able to grow this particular variety.
I had nothing to do with this project and do not get any money from it. You know this is my hobby and I love to share my plants with everybody.
Regards,
Edgar
Hello,
What is the recommended way to plant a dragon fruit cutting? Do you re-cut at the thickest point of the cutting and then stick the cutting into the soil?
My own thought is that then you get both a fresh cut, plus a stronger bottom stem. Here is a pic of 2 cuttings:
This is all new to me so I would appreciate any advice.
Tomas
The Tricia thorns looks a bit like my generic white-fleshed dragonfruit, they are very very sharp! My LaVerne Pink is closer to the 9-S. Interesting the variety of thorns!
Can anyone tell me how big of a root system dragon fruits have? I have a nice hillside Im thinking of putting some raised beds on and doing dragon fruit in them but there are spectic leach lines there. Is it a shallow root system or is that asking for trouble?
Can anyone tell me how big of a root system dragon fruits have? I have a nice hillside Im thinking of putting some raised beds on and doing dragon fruit in them but there are spectic leach lines there. Is it a shallow root system or is that asking for trouble?
They have the super HD T posts for 7$ a piece for 8ft. I use them for fencing ad tomato and grape posts. They dont have the circumference of a 4x4 but strength is there. They are way easier to get in the ground than a 4x4 too.
Richard, do you know how the UC research do the metal posts? How far down they go, concrete, etc? I have my own place now and need to make trellises for dragonfruit and grapes soon.
Also, weather conditions can factor into what you use for posts. The UC photos shown are of very heavily pruned plants. If those get fuller, weight is going to be an issue, unless theyre keeping them thin full time, since theyre research plants, not crop producing. But in California, you also have to factor in wind. Heavy Santa Ana winds would bend those posts if the plants became more widespread and fuller, so that's something to consider. My 'post' of choice is still pressure treated lumber, coated with tar or sealant for the underground sections, and then wrapped in burlap. The 4x4 allows you to nail cross posts or wire to the sides, is thick enough to drill out holes through the wood without compromising the strength, and since its wood, you can more easily attach angle posts if necessary. Its not 'THE' way to go, but I find that it works best for my needs. A lot of this is more based on where you are, what space you have and the conditions youre planting in.
While my dragonfruit stems are overwintering, I noticed one of the top cuttings got cold damage, which I managed to make a top cutting of. But then I also noticed these weird discoloured spots also has appeared? Is this only because of the humidity, or should I remove them asap? Or is it something I could remove with home remedials? since most gardening shops are closed at this time of the season 'w'
While my dragonfruit stems are overwintering, I noticed one of the top cuttings got cold damage, which I managed to make a top cutting of. But then I also noticed these weird discoloured spots also has appeared? Is this only because of the humidity, or should I remove them asap? Or is it something I could remove with home remedials? since most gardening shops are closed at this time of the season 'w'
I'm not an expert, but in my experience: healthy plants can fight off diseases like that, but during winter semi-dormancy their immune system (or whatever plants have) isn't very active. Monitor it and if the infected area seems to be growing/worsening, cut those sections off.
Hi all. What characteristics do I need to look for in my dragon fruit plant to determine what variety it is? Or will someone be able to help me identify it if I post some pictures? Thanks
Do any Dragonfruit growers have any experience with small black ants damaging their plants and flowers? I have recently moved locations and this is the first summer growing in this area. I have what could be considered a plague of small black ants that attack any new flower buds as well as any exposed area of stem, such as where a stem splits due to excess watering or swelling from flowering. The ants chew off the small petals on new flower but rarely stop the flower developing, and any splits in the stem, they start chewing the flesh away inside the split. I assume they are after the sweet sap that is excreted in these areas but I have also lost a few fruit that ants have burrowed into and eaten from the inside until empty. Any suggestions?
Is it a white variety of fruit? It looks like the branches have the characteristic 'corking' or brown edge along the fins of the branches, which is usually found in the more traditional 'heirloom' white species. As for the taste, if by 'perfumic' you mean its tastes a bit like perfume or flowers, that also might be an indication that it one of the original types of dragonfruit, as these fruit had very low sugar content and not much in the way of crossbreeding to modify the flavor.
Also, it's seems Ed Valdivia doesn't have a website anymore?
Also, it's seems Ed Valdivia doesn't have a website anymore?
Also, it's seems Ed Valdivia doesn't have a website anymore?
If you know the old URL for the site it is possibly available at the Internet Archive:
https://archive.org/web/
If so, please share!
I'm curious pineislander, you associated with Pine Island Nursery at all? Even if not any stories/fun facts/hints etc about getting pitahaya or other tropical fruits from there?
I found my first buds on my G-2 plant this week. First to the finish I guess, which is mostly bad, because I believe its not self-fertile.
Anyone in Southern California starting to see flower buds on their plants yet? Mine aren't planted in what I would call ideal locations for sun exposure but I found my first buds on my G-2 plant this week. First to the finish I guess, which is mostly bad, because I believe its not self-fertile. However, it will give me a chance to see if I can get the pollen I have left over from last year to work. Would be a solid test into longer term pollen storage if nothing else I have here is secretly pushing buds that I cant see. I'd rather not waste a chance at fruit but if none of my other varieties show flower, at least its not a total loss.
I'm curious pineislander, you associated with Pine Island Nursery at all? Even if not any stories/fun facts/hints etc about getting pitahaya or other tropical fruits from there?No, I just live on Pine Island in SW Florida, never been to that nursery yet. It is a little confusing that they have that name since they are south of Miami, and there are actually two physical islands called "Pine Island" in Florida, both on the west coast, one in Lee county, the largest island in Florida(32 sq. miles), and one in Hernando County, a tiny 65 acres.
(https://s11.postimg.cc/axknyz1bj/plants_001.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/axknyz1bj/)I found my first buds on my G-2 plant this week. First to the finish I guess, which is mostly bad, because I believe its not self-fertile.
Do you plant S8 too? I spotted flower buds on my G2 and S8 at the same time. Come get some if needed.
Forgot to add the picture.
It's a 2 year old white-fleshed seedling
(https://s21.postimg.cc/pf3e2bker/18118598_1292055050886500_1754212502836970926_n.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/pf3e2bker/)
If you have the room you should use the 15 gallon pot option. It will give you enough room for the expected lifespan of the plant. Just remember, whatever soil mixture you decide to use, make sure you don't fill the pot over 75% on the initial planting. This will give you room to both add solid soil type fertilizer in the future and to add water (and water based fertilizers) without waste, so you can just dump water ion by the gallon without having to slowly pour it in while trying to prevent overflow and spillage. If you bury your pot, again, leave about 25% above the surface for convenience and, if possible, throw in a couple inches of gravel under the pot to help with drainage in wet times. You can also have (traditionally) up to 3 cuttings in a 15 gallon pot, so if you want to have some variety or need cross pollination, you should have at least two varieties per pot. It helps to take some of the workload off the bees and other pollinators having mixed flowers so close together.
My Sugar Dragon has nice flower buds forming and American Beauty as well. I haven't checked the others but I'm guessing my Simons Purple and Halleys Comet probably has some buds as well, I just haven't looked carefully.
Simon
I cut back on watering in Winter and early spring and I start to give an ultra bloom type fertilizer around February. If I use an organic 0-10-10, I give it early to allow for it to break down and get to the plants. If using chemical fertilizers, just give it prior to when you expect new growth coming out of winter. If growing in pots, add rock dust in Winter around January or February then cover it with a bit of compost and the vines really take off.
If your plants are fruiting size, don't give it too much Nitrogen. I prune after harvesting fruit and then again in late winter or early Spring if needed.
Simon
Dragon, 10-52-10 is a type of ultrabloom fertilizer so it should be ok. I've used it with good success.Thanks, Simon. What about new growth? Should I let it grow or remove it, Simon. I think you have more experience grow dr than I.
Simon
If your plant is small, I would let it grow out so you can get more fruiting branches later in the year or next year. If your plant is full sized, you can cut them off. Once your DF tree is full sized, trim off about 1/3 of the growth after harvest so that you completely renew the tops every 3 years.
I haven't done much research on DF since about ten years ago so their may have been new data with better production techniques.
Simon
How do you stored pollen for future use and how long will they last?
How do you stored pollen for future use and how long will they last?
You harvest the fresh pollen at night then you let it dry out then store in the freezer. It should last you a couple of months
How is this done, or is it just internet trickery? Looks great if space is limited.Impossible to grow Dragonfruit in this way. I'm pretty sure this is how they display them for sale at markets, possibly tied onto dragonfruit branches with string or fishing line. Display only.
(https://s29.postimg.cc/tiwlj3xcj/s-l500.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/tiwlj3xcj/)
How is this done, or is it just internet trickery? Looks great if space is limited.Impossible to grow Dragonfruit in this way. I'm pretty sure this is how they display them for sale at markets, possibly tied onto dragonfruit branches with string or fishing line. Display only.
(https://s29.postimg.cc/tiwlj3xcj/s-l500.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/tiwlj3xcj/)
I am new to growing DF, but I've always loved gardening - I'm in southern Louisiana. I purchased my cuttings from Spicy Exotics, which is relatively close by, but he was sold out of several cuttings I wanted (Voodoo child - wanted 3 he only had 1, Delight & David Bowie). Please let me know of any reputable sellers that I could get these cuttings from (would like to purchase approx. 3 of each variety). I currently have Cosmic Charlie (3 cuttings) & only 1 Voodoo child right now. My husband has built planters like Tye built on Spicy Exotics site, fairly easy and inexpensive. Thanks so much for your help!
How is this done, or is it just internet trickery? Looks great if space is limited.
(https://s29.postimg.cc/tiwlj3xcj/s-l500.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/tiwlj3xcj/)
Finally got my Dragonfruit in ground (sorta!). Now to just protect it from all this rain we're never going to get.
(https://s17.postimg.cc/9cu0ytxuj/IMG_5940.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/9cu0ytxuj/)
Hi there all, I am looking for some assistance. I have a group of Dragon Fruit cuttings that I planted a few weeks back. Most of the cuttings have not exhibited any new growth since I planted them, but one cutting has developed a white area across the surface of the cutting. The white out area is about 1 inch around, and starts at the soil surface. The cutting is not rooted. I have the Dragon Fruit planted in a peat moss/perlite mix. I water them about every 3-4 days, and the cuttings only receive morning sun where they are located. Besides the discoloration, there are no obvious signs of distress or problems with the cutting. The other cuttings located in a similar area, but planted separately do not have any discoloration like that. I think I have eight cuttings total, only one has developed new growth. I live in an arid climate. We currently have daily temperatures above 100 degrees.
I have not seen that. Just watched it. I know that Dragon Fruit can be slow to root. I was just wondering if the discoloration is normal. I am careful not to overwater them. I know they are cacti, and I don't want to overwater, so I usually wait till the top inch or so of soil is dry before I water again, and at that I don't water a lot.
(https://s13.postimg.cc/q8eebd1kj/1495677642308.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/q8eebd1kj/)
Pic of affected plant. White out zone
I've used cedar wrapped in burlap and had no issues before.
The soil they are in is very light, and i mixed perlite in there also. I have a compost mix, but i have heard conflicting ideas on whether to add it in there at this point bcause they are not rooted. I have been spraying the cuttings with superthrive the last few days, so we will see if they like that. I was going to start composting the cuttings that show signs of new growth.
Just wondering if any growers/collectors out there have grown the Dragonfruit variety 'Yellow cross 68' , from Matts Landscape? As far as I know it's a megalanthus hybrid, but Matt hasn't updated the details of this variety for quite some time and I was hoping someone out there has had some extra info on it, in particular fruit colour inside and out.
I've had my cuttings for 3 years and they've just started to show signs of growth now! Pays to be patient apparently.
Thanks in advance.
Just wondering if any growers/collectors out there have grown the Dragonfruit variety 'Yellow cross 68' , from Matts Landscape? As far as I know it's a megalanthus hybrid, but Matt hasn't updated the details of this variety for quite some time and I was hoping someone out there has had some extra info on it, in particular fruit colour inside and out.
I've had my cuttings for 3 years and they've just started to show signs of growth now! Pays to be patient apparently.
Thanks in advance.
The fruit that forms is still an S8 but any plant produced from the seed of that particular fruit is going to be different from the parent, a hybrid . It will be a totally new variety! It may look, taste and seem exactly the same as its parent or it could be something completely different, but it is definitely not the same. This is how newer, sometimes better varieties are created!
If you grow a plant from the seeds of that fruit, you can name it after yourself as it's a totally new variety.
Hope this helps.
Congrats on your first flowerbud. Hopefully it doesn't dry up on you, as can happen from time to time.
looks like a stem from the base of it.
Only thing you can do is don't apply any nitrogen fertilizer if you fertilize.
looks like a stem from the base of it.
Only thing you can do is don't apply any nitrogen fertilizer if you fertilize.
I did apply chicken manure and some bone meal at the end of June. I wonder if that was the cause. What is a good fertilizer you would recommend ?
looks like a stem from the base of it.
Only thing you can do is don't apply any nitrogen fertilizer if you fertilize.
I did apply chicken manure and some bone meal at the end of June. I wonder if that was the cause. What is a good fertilizer you would recommend ?
When it comes to fertilizer and Dragon Fruit... IMO less is more.
Hey Forum,
Have a few zamorano DF's and every time they flower the flower swivels up and falls off. I am assuming the issue is that they are not being pollinated naturally? If this is the case how can I hand pollinate to get fruit set? Seems the flowers bloom once at night and then done.
-Joep450
Hey SoCal,Yes, it's a 4x4 and I used a cement post similar to the picture below. There 2 sizes commercially available that I know of. I got the smaller one at Dixieline.
Is that a 4x4 for center post, and Haworth do you have the center post anchored in the pot?
-joep450
First American Beauty of the year, I don't have my refractometer on me but the flavor is good. These early fruit are not too sweet yet but they have a good balance of flavor. First fruit to ripen were my Sugar Dragons and they are really small. This year, I have a very light crop on all my vines, probably because they are getting old and I haven't been pruning and renewing the limbs like I should be doing.
(https://s11.postimg.cc/3uj1mdznz/IMG_2644.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3uj1mdznz/)
Simon
We got tired of rotted posts so now we encase perforated galvanized square steel tubing with concrete. The tubing is the same one being used for street signs.
Where can you buy the perforated galvanized square steel tubing used for street signs?
Where can you buy the perforated galvanized square steel tubing used for street signs?
Search for "perforated square tubing". Industrial store should have it.
I'm about to make another support tree with cheaper circular fence post. Only need a few holes drilled.
Where can you buy the perforated galvanized square steel tubing used for street signs?
Search for "perforated square tubing". Industrial store should have it.
I'm about to make another support tree with cheaper circular fence post. Only need a few holes drilled.
What will you do with the round tubing? Pour concrete or use as is? You might try using 3 or 4 rebars and bend them at the ends and let that hang out and concrete the lowere end. I thought out making some but figured its a lot of effort and they will require more than myself to install.
Just make sure however you make your posts, that its securely anchored to either the world, or a wall. Plants get top heavy fast and you don't want them falling over.
And since we're starting to show off pictures of our collections, here's the first harvest from my plants. Its a mix of S8 Sugar Dragons (smaller ones) and my experimental crossbreed.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/f58ghu5hn/20170719_200415_124.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/f58ghu5hn/)
What will you do with the round tubing? Pour concrete or use as is? You might try using 3 or 4 rebars and bend them at the ends and let that hang out and concrete the lowere end. I thought out making some but figured its a lot of effort and they will require more than myself to install.
I put one end in a pot then encase that end in concrete. I box the tubing with wood for the DF to cling onto. I add the top, with wood. I dig a hole then put the whole thing in, including the pot.
I apologize if this is a silly question that has been answered many times...but what are the wide green ties that people are using the secure the stems of their dragon fruit cactus to their support system? and where can I possibly find them? I've looked around and haven't seen them yet
My 99 cents store stopped selling it this year. Had to go to an ag supply store and pay 1.50. Home Depot sells it in the garden section for a little more.I apologize if this is a silly question that has been answered many times...but what are the wide green ties that people are using the secure the stems of their dragon fruit cactus to their support system? and where can I possibly find them? I've looked around and haven't seen them yet
It is nursery tape. I found it just .99 cents at .99 cents store.
I apologize if this is a silly question that has been answered many times...but what are the wide green ties that people are using the secure the stems of their dragon fruit cactus to their support system? and where can I possibly find them? I've looked around and haven't seen them yet
S8, Megalanthus and American Beauty?You got it 100% RobPatterson!
Frank, awesome plants. Are some of those from the cuttings I gave you several years ago?
Simon
Frank, awesome plants. Are some of those from the cuttings I gave you several years ago?
Simon
Hi Simon
this is a friend of mines orchard. he turned me on to top tier dragon fruits....the ones you gave me are growing but no fruits yets
(https://s12.postimg.cc/k35isvfnd/IMG_5942_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/k35isvfnd/)
(https://s2.postimg.cc/534hwpop1/IMG_5941_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/534hwpop1/)
American Beauty bears round fruits I think.
Some random questions/thoughts:
- I didn't dry my pollen after collecting; I just put it directly in the freezer. Did I kill it?
- I have two more PG flowers that should pop in ~2 days, so I'll dry their pollen out before freezing, but I'm not sure I'll have anything that needs pollinating after this.
- DF pollen seems to drive my cat nuts! She found my pollen brush and was carrying it around the house. I put the brush back in the bag, and she wouldn't leave the bag alone. She kept trying to get her nose into the bag, and I eventually had to put it in a closet and close the door. If it isn't toxic (!!!!) I think I've found a replacement for catnip.
Ok so a little over a week ago I had about 12 gorgeous flowers open up on a couple of my dragonfruits. But then the fruits all turned yellow and dropped off! I had hand pollinated them with a brush so I thought they had a good shot of setting fruit. I have a couple varieties that did this: physical graffiti and american beauty. They set fruit really well a couple of months back, so I was excited to get a second crop this summer. Not sure why this time everything yellowed and dropped.The only thing I could think is the next day after the bloom, we had a gully washer, so maybe it got too wet and dropped all the fruit? Anything else that you guys think might be wrong?
Here is a pic of one of the yellowed fruits -
(https://s1.postimg.cc/ydgqzpoyj/IMG_1402.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ydgqzpoyj/)
hello everyone im growing a DF cactus at my ranch in north eastern new mexico in zone 5-6 in the greenhouse and indoors during the winter with no heat and it gets down to -15 - -20 at times. Its going on its third year and still growing strong. however I cannot get the plant to flower. Its just growing a lot of shoots whitch I pull off as soon as I notice them because it has already a lot of branches. iv tried the tiping method and still nothing. I have 2 varieties but I don't know the names. One is the red flesh the other is the white flesh.
I was wondering if anyone else has the problem of growing a lot of branches and no flowers and if so what do you recommend for inducing flowering instead of branching?
Regards,
BEN G
To the SoCal growers, from your experience, what are the most productive pink/red flesh varieties in terms of quantity? I'm thinking it got to be Sugar Dragon/Voodoo Child, but sometimes I do see Physical Graffiti (required hand pollination) bearing abundant of fruits.
To the SoCal growers, from your experience, what are the most productive pink/red flesh varieties in terms of quantity? I'm thinking it got to be Sugar Dragon/Voodoo Child, but sometimes I do see Physical Graffiti (required hand pollination) bearing abundant of fruits.
My advice... for only TWO varieties for SoCal hobbyist growers would be Physical Graffiti and S-8 (Sugar Dragon).
To the SoCal growers, from your experience, what are the most productive pink/red flesh varieties in terms of quantity? I'm thinking it got to be Sugar Dragon/Voodoo Child, but sometimes I do see Physical Graffiti (required hand pollination) bearing abundant of fruits.
My advice... for only TWO varieties for SoCal hobbyist growers would be Physical Graffiti and S-8 (Sugar Dragon).
In what order do these typically flower?
If one habitually flowers earlier than the other, how do you pollinate the earlier variety?
hello everyone im growing a DF cactus at my ranch in north eastern new mexico in zone 5-6 in the greenhouse and indoors during the winter with no heat and it gets down to -15 - -20 at times. Its going on its third year and still growing strong. however I cannot get the plant to flower. Its just growing a lot of shoots whitch I pull off as soon as I notice them because it has already a lot of branches. iv tried the tiping method and still nothing. I have 2 varieties but I don't know the names. One is the red flesh the other is the white flesh.
I was wondering if anyone else has the problem of growing a lot of branches and no flowers and if so what do you recommend for inducing flowering instead of branching?
Regards,
BEN G
assuming you have trellis and your plants had reached the top and those stems pointing downward are over 1 year old. they flower when the weather gets hot and days are long.
I think this is something you can do to help flowering. reduce watering as summer approaches. tip the mature branches. if you already have plenty of matured stems I would pick off the new shoots are they appear. also try to use bloom fertilizer late Spring/early Summer time.
When you say reduce watering, so you mean once a week near late spring even though the soil feels dry? I'm currently watering every other day and I've had 2 buds for the very first time but it has reverted back to stems. And I'm trying to improve flowering for next year.
When you say reduce watering, so you mean once a week near late spring even though the soil feels dry? I'm currently watering every other day and I've had 2 buds for the very first time but it has reverted back to stems. And I'm trying to improve flowering for next year.
I live in Southern California and do not water every other day!
S-8 flowers throughout the season for me. It was the first to open flowers and I have been harvesting fruit for several weeks and there are new blooms forming on the plant that will correspond with late blooming varieties like Halleys Comet or other secondary blooms from various other varieties that have already fruited.
When you say reduce watering, so you mean once a week near late spring even though the soil feels dry? I'm currently watering every other day and I've had 2 buds for the very first time but it has reverted back to stems. And I'm trying to improve flowering for next year.
I live in Southern California and do not water every other day!
When you say reduce watering, so you mean once a week near late spring even though the soil feels dry? I'm currently watering every other day and I've had 2 buds for the very first time but it has reverted back to stems. And I'm trying to improve flowering for next year.
I live in Southern California and do not water every other day!
Ditto! Mine are on a timed drip system, and it waters them every 4 days.
What is the best time to pollination assist from the time of opening I have two flowers opening slowly now 6PM no idea when to assist with brush early evening on early am?
Hello friends, the greedy part of me wants to grow more DF and been looking for room.
I have a small raised bed right next to the base of house, approx 10 ft long x 1 foot wide x 1 foot deep. Been rooting some cuttings in there with plans to transplant later, but now I wonder if I could safely grow DF in there without causing foundation problems later.
How aggressive is the root system of DF? Do you think I could safely let DF grow there up to mature size? Or is it safer to grow them in pots (then placed in raised bed) for peace of mind? Either way I'll build support for sure. Many thanks!!
I would be more concerned on which direction the side of the house is facing.
I would be more concerned on which direction the side of the house is facing.
Thanks! It faces west.
LOL thanks! I don't intend to let it climb on the wall (mom will get paranoid). Will sort of guide it to grow more in the sun.
Any thoughts about DF root system hurting the foundation of the house?
Would appreciate feedback from you experienced growers on what strategy you use for pruning your DF? When do you do it, and how aggressive do you prune it? I am not talking about training a young plant, but rather once you have a mature plant trained and setup umbrella style and have had a alot of flowering and fruits. I want to insure I do this properly so I continue to have successful flowering and fruiting in the coming seasons. Thanks
Bump.. anybody? Thanks!Would appreciate feedback from you experienced growers on what strategy you use for pruning your DF? When do you do it, and how aggressive do you prune it? I am not talking about training a young plant, but rather once you have a mature plant trained and setup umbrella style and have had a alot of flowering and fruits. I want to insure I do this properly so I continue to have successful flowering and fruiting in the coming seasons. Thanks
Bump.. anybody? Thanks!Would appreciate feedback from you experienced growers on what strategy you use for pruning your DF? When do you do it, and how aggressive do you prune it? I am not talking about training a young plant, but rather once you have a mature plant trained and setup umbrella style and have had a alot of flowering and fruits. I want to insure I do this properly so I continue to have successful flowering and fruiting in the coming seasons. Thanks
Have you watched this UC YouTube video?
https://youtu.be/kwD8vhzIUm0 (https://youtu.be/kwD8vhzIUm0)
Anyone has tasted or grown Maria Rosa vareity? I can't find much info on it besides it being a somewhat pink flesh variety with slight lemon flavor and refreshing taste.
Hi,
I know Rob posted about how he freezes pollen. I employed his method and have some pollen in storage now. Thanks for the tips! Question on thawing the pollen (for Rob or anyone else that has done this successfully). Do you find you can remove pollen from freezer, use some, and then put the previously collected pollen back in the freezer again? I read some pollen can't live through multiple freeze cycles. So I'm wondering if I should freeze in small batches and use whatever I take out fully. Also, do you actually let it thaw at room temperature, or do you take it straight out of the freezer and hand pollinate? I have only stored pollen in the fridge, I didn't dry at all, and had success if using it 1-2 days later. Thanks!
Anyone has tasted or grown Maria Rosa vareity? I can't find much info on it besides it being a somewhat pink flesh variety with slight lemon flavor and refreshing taste.
Never heard of it until I Googled it.
Was Spicy Exotics your source?
http://www.spicyexotics.com/product/maria-rosa/ (http://www.spicyexotics.com/product/maria-rosa/)
They say; "This plant is also self-sterile making it a great choice for beginner gardeners or commercial growing." ???
STERILE??? That doesn't sound like a great choice.Anyone has tasted or grown Maria Rosa vareity? I can't find much info on it besides it being a somewhat pink flesh variety with slight lemon flavor and refreshing taste.
Never heard of it until I Googled it.
Was Spicy Exotics your source?
http://www.spicyexotics.com/product/maria-rosa/ (http://www.spicyexotics.com/product/maria-rosa/)
They say; "This plant is also self-sterile making it a great choice for beginner gardeners or commercial growing." ???
Anyone has tasted or grown Maria Rosa vareity? I can't find much info on it besides it being a somewhat pink flesh variety with slight lemon flavor and refreshing taste.
Never heard of it until I Googled it.
Was Spicy Exotics your source?
http://www.spicyexotics.com/product/maria-rosa/ (http://www.spicyexotics.com/product/maria-rosa/)
They say; "This plant is also self-sterile making it a great choice for beginner gardeners or commercial growing." ???
Yup, that's the source. I'm just wondering if it's worth growing compared to s8 when one is limited in space.
Hmmm... I think I'll have to sleep on this one.
Anyone has tasted or grown Maria Rosa vareity? I can't find much info on it besides it being a somewhat pink flesh variety with slight lemon flavor and refreshing taste.
Never heard of it until I Googled it.
Was Spicy Exotics your source?
http://www.spicyexotics.com/product/maria-rosa/ (http://www.spicyexotics.com/product/maria-rosa/)
They say; "This plant is also self-sterile making it a great choice for beginner gardeners or commercial growing." ???
Yup, that's the source. I'm just wondering if it's worth growing compared to s8 when one is limited in space.
Hmmm... I think I'll have to sleep on this one.
If you are limited in space... I bet most people would recommend S-8.
Yeah, S8 I gave it to a friend who doesn't garden. I go water their plants twice a year and they still get 5 fruits.
Yeah, S8 I gave it to a friend who doesn't garden. I go water their plants twice a year and they still get 5 fruits.
Yeah, S8 I gave it to a friend who doesn't garden. I go water their plants twice a year and they still get 5 fruits.
Anyone using coco coir sheets on their DF supports? Saw a guy on youtube showing his off. Seems better than burlap. Costs more... That guy may be a member here. Forgot his youtube handle, hes an older guy who wheres tie dye and looks like hes in Florida probably.He is in Hawaii. Here is his video:
I'm getting started with DF. It looks like a good idea if DF do feed using the aerial roots. Is there real evidence for that?
I'm getting started with DF. It looks like a good idea if DF do feed using the aerial roots. Is there real evidence for that?
I found aerial roots, on the shady side of the post, on my Halley's Comet going all the way down into the soil.
(https://s11.postimg.cc/9gxxxjpan/aerial_4789.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/9gxxxjpan/)
(https://s23.postimg.cc/cvgrpcudz/aerial_4788.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/cvgrpcudz/)
IMO Somebody needs to plant two identical Dragon Fruit plants, side-by-side, on identical post trellis, one with burlap, one without any covering to see if this is really that beneficial.
I believe coco liner can have high (relatively) levels of salt in it, based on where it comes from. I don't know that for certain, it was just something I was told once. I have no idea if there are varying degrees of coco, as Ive always used burlap. As for the aerial roots themselves, they are both a natural part of the plants design and a benefit for growers. They stabilize plants on structures and allow for additional water and nutrients to enter the plants system. However, you have to be very careful not to overdo it with fertilizers on the aerial roots, as you could end up burning them if the mix is too strong. I always spray my posts when I water, to moisten the burlap and air roots, and they continue to grow and develop. Keep in mind, that these are the same roots as are under the ground. When a cutting starts showing new root growth, its actually the air roots youre seeing. They just develop a type of thick skin if not kept moist, as they would be most of the time underground.
Ive seen entire plants completely removed from the soil by damage or rot, living just fine off the remaining air root systems that managed to get back into the earth. Do not underestimate the value of the air rooting systems.
I believe coco liner can have high (relatively) levels of salt in it, based on where it comes from. I don't know that for certain, it was just something I was told once. I have no idea if there are varying degrees of coco, as Ive always used burlap. As for the aerial roots themselves, they are both a natural part of the plants design and a benefit for growers. They stabilize plants on structures and allow for additional water and nutrients to enter the plants system. However, you have to be very careful not to overdo it with fertilizers on the aerial roots, as you could end up burning them if the mix is too strong. I always spray my posts when I water, to moisten the burlap and air roots, and they continue to grow and develop. Keep in mind, that these are the same roots as are under the ground. When a cutting starts showing new root growth, its actually the air roots youre seeing. They just develop a type of thick skin if not kept moist, as they would be most of the time underground.
Ive seen entire plants completely removed from the soil by damage or rot, living just fine off the remaining air root systems that managed to get back into the earth. Do not underestimate the value of the air rooting systems.
FYI: Coco coir use to contain a lot of salt. The reason was during the processing it was rinsed with saltwater.
Guess what? As coco coir became popular as a growing medium, the better companies, rinse and wash the coir to flush out salts. The bricks of coir sold now by the better companies do not have the issues with high salt.
Example: http://a.co/bnT8jnc (http://a.co/bnT8jnc)
Is this true!? I hope so!
https://www.freshfruitportal.com/news/2017/08/03/ecuador-gears-first-dragon-fruit-shipments-u-s-september/ (https://www.freshfruitportal.com/news/2017/08/03/ecuador-gears-first-dragon-fruit-shipments-u-s-september/)
“This gives us a competitive advantage since the yellow dragon fruit…has much larger sizes, higher Brix levels, and a high vitamin C content.”
The second has straight edges different from any cereus I've seen. Any idea what this is?
(https://s14.postimg.cc/f1if5mbkt/DSC01054_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/f1if5mbkt/)
(https://s24.postimg.cc/upwsu3675/DSC01056_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/upwsu3675/)
No, I don't think it can be Valdivia Roja/Ocamponis. Look at the pictures and you can see absolutely no undulation of the margins, none at all.
The second has straight edges different from any cereus I've seen. Any idea what this is?
(https://s14.postimg.cc/f1if5mbkt/DSC01054_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/f1if5mbkt/)
(https://s24.postimg.cc/upwsu3675/DSC01056_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/upwsu3675/)
The second one looks like/may be Valdivia Roja from Mexico (no connection to Edgar Valdivia).
Dr. Douhan's DNA testing put Valdivia Roja as H. ocamponis.
My Valdivia Roja for comparison.
(https://s3.postimg.cc/pf38gbtv3/valdivia_4539.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/pf38gbtv3/)
The second has straight edges different from any cereus I've seen. Any idea what this is?
(https://s14.postimg.cc/f1if5mbkt/DSC01054_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/f1if5mbkt/)
(https://s24.postimg.cc/upwsu3675/DSC01056_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/upwsu3675/)
The second has straight edges different from any cereus I've seen. Any idea what this is?
(https://s14.postimg.cc/f1if5mbkt/DSC01054_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/f1if5mbkt/)
(https://s24.postimg.cc/upwsu3675/DSC01056_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/upwsu3675/)
My Cebra has straight edges like that.
(https://s25.postimg.cc/sjix3n4j3/Cebra-3_08-09-16.jpg)
DM
No, I don't think it can be Valdivia Roja/Ocamponis. Look at the pictures and you can see absolutely no undulation of the margins, none at all.
My Valdivia Roja for comparison.
(https://s3.postimg.cc/pf38gbtv3/valdivia_4539.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/pf38gbtv3/)
This is a closeup of Ocamponis:
http://www.inaturalist.org/observations/6310469 (http://www.inaturalist.org/observations/6310469)
Here is a comparison. The unknown has very straight margins.
(https://s14.postimg.cc/awk6ck9fh/comparison.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/awk6ck9fh/)
1. What is the best propagating material out of the selection shown here?
My neighbor has a selection of unidentified cereus shich were left behind when the nursery she bought went out of business.
I'm attaching photos of two of these. in case anyone here can help ID these.
The first appears to me to be Selenicereus Megalanthus, yellow dragon fruit, based on the semi-circular scalloped edges. Do you agree?
(https://s3.postimg.cc/ajg3dvngf/DSC01055_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ajg3dvngf/)
(https://s29.postimg.cc/qmzui9ckj/DSC01057_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/qmzui9ckj/)
The second has straight edges different from any cereus I've seen. Any idea what this is?
--------------------------------------
(https://s14.postimg.cc/f1if5mbkt/DSC01054_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/f1if5mbkt/)
(https://s24.postimg.cc/upwsu3675/DSC01056_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/upwsu3675/)
Does it take 30 days from bud to bloom and then another 30-35 days from bloom to ripened fruit ?
PI reading what you have said above I now have concerns about my "yellow" dragon fruit. I got these from a friend who I am sure said they were yellows (he gave me red as well). I looked up pics and see what you mean though. Bugger.
(https://s21.postimg.cc/ic3byb92b/IMG_3287.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ic3byb92b/)
Does it take 30 days from bud to bloom and then another 30-35 days from bloom to ripened fruit ?
From what I know 35 days to 6 month to ripen the fruits. I harvested my white varieties and S8 around 40 days. Connie Mayer and Bruni fully ripe in 60 days but best harvest in 45. Megalanthus take about six months to ripe.
Does it take 30 days from bud to bloom and then another 30-35 days from bloom to ripened fruit ?Approximately 14 days from bud to bloom, and then 30-35 days to fruit picking! A few varieties take longer to ripen but only a few.
Does it take 30 days from bud to bloom and then another 30-35 days from bloom to ripened fruit ?Approximately 14 days from bud to bloom, and then 30-35 days to fruit picking! A few varieties take longer to ripen but only a few.
This one looks like a S. Megalanthus 'yellow' variety. It match the descriptions Rob mentioned above.
I have been growing this variety for about 3 years. It's been very challenging, it doesn't like too cold or too much direct sun. I had 2 died in the winter and one got torched in the summer. I have taken cuttings from the previous plant and growing in containers. It wasn't even cold this past winter but it nearly die too. The one in ground was much healthier and stronger died. I think by relocating the container next to a south facing wall saved this plant. Hopefully it will bloom next year.
I think Frankie's Red is a better alternative to S. Megalanthus. I heard it only take 45 days to ripen the fruit instead of months opposed to the Megalanthus. They both will need protection from heat and chill. There is a lot of hype on the yellow. Given the fact that's hard to grow and months to produce a tiny fruit from flower, IMO Sugar Dragon is probably the best alternative.
(https://s4.postimg.cc/oqwydk921/IMG_4340.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/oqwydk921/)
(https://s4.postimg.cc/4ktgeodeh/IMG_4341.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4ktgeodeh/)
(https://s4.postimg.cc/ye5210rfd/IMG_4342.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ye5210rfd/)
Thank you for the info :) cold doesn't bother it here (though I think we have less than there) but it doesn't like direct sun too much. Doesn't kill ithem but they turn light green/yellow as in the pic. In the shade they stay a dark green.
Does it take 30 days from bud to bloom and then another 30-35 days from bloom to ripened fruit ?Approximately 14 days from bud to bloom, and then 30-35 days to fruit picking! A few varieties take longer to ripen but only a few.
Thanks! I was curious cause I finally have a bud that doesn't seem like t would turn back to a stem like my first flush of buds did. And it's been 6 days since I first noticed the bud and the growth seem to have slowed down these past few days so I was getting worried. I hope the growth is not stunted. Glad to know it take at least 14 days from bud to bloom. Thank you.
I plan to leave my fruits on the vine until the last second (before they split). Usually what pests are after ripened fruits? Anyway to protect the fruits while letting them continue to ripen?
I plan to leave my fruits on the vine until the last second (before they split). Usually what pests are after ripened fruits? Anyway to protect the fruits while letting them continue to ripen?
Not all Dragon Fruit is best when it has turned completely red.
Connie Mayer fruit picture by Don Burnett.
(https://s2.postimg.cc/mqqps6r51/IMG_1558.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/mqqps6r51/)
Does it take 30 days from bud to bloom and then another 30-35 days from bloom to ripened fruit ?Approximately 14 days from bud to bloom, and then 30-35 days to fruit picking! A few varieties take longer to ripen but only a few.
Thanks! I was curious cause I finally have a bud that doesn't seem like t would turn back to a stem like my first flush of buds did. And it's been 6 days since I first noticed the bud and the growth seem to have slowed down these past few days so I was getting worried. I hope the growth is not stunted. Glad to know it take at least 14 days from bud to bloom. Thank you.
...hmmm... my bud grew a bit today. I guess I worried way too early. Probably the gloomy weather during the last few days may have slowed the growth a bit. Now that the sun is back out, it seems much happier now.
Does it take 30 days from bud to bloom and then another 30-35 days from bloom to ripened fruit ?Approximately 14 days from bud to bloom, and then 30-35 days to fruit picking! A few varieties take longer to ripen but only a few.
Thanks! I was curious cause I finally have a bud that doesn't seem like t would turn back to a stem like my first flush of buds did. And it's been 6 days since I first noticed the bud and the growth seem to have slowed down these past few days so I was getting worried. I hope the growth is not stunted. Glad to know it take at least 14 days from bud to bloom. Thank you.
...hmmm... my bud grew a bit today. I guess I worried way too early. Probably the gloomy weather during the last few days may have slowed the growth a bit. Now that the sun is back out, it seems much happier now.
From my experience it takes about 30 days from first sighting of bud to full bloomed flower. If the bud doesnt stick for whatever reason it usually turn yellow in the first couple of weeks.
They also grow at snail pace if you stare at it often :o
Does it take 30 days from bud to bloom and then another 30-35 days from bloom to ripened fruit ?Approximately 14 days from bud to bloom, and then 30-35 days to fruit picking! A few varieties take longer to ripen but only a few.
Thanks! I was curious cause I finally have a bud that doesn't seem like t would turn back to a stem like my first flush of buds did. And it's been 6 days since I first noticed the bud and the growth seem to have slowed down these past few days so I was getting worried. I hope the growth is not stunted. Glad to know it take at least 14 days from bud to bloom. Thank you.
...hmmm... my bud grew a bit today. I guess I worried way too early. Probably the gloomy weather during the last few days may have slowed the growth a bit. Now that the sun is back out, it seems much happier now.
From my experience it takes about 30 days from first sighting of bud to full bloomed flower. If the bud doesnt stick for whatever reason it usually turn yellow in the first couple of weeks.
They also grow at snail pace if you stare at it often :o
Lol... you hit the spot cause that's exactly what I did.. hahaha... I was just so excited and also freaked that it would turn back into a stem like the first flush I had this year that I kept on checking on it everyday just to make sure. And I just started growing dragon fruit since 2015 and finally might get a fruit this year that it just got to me...lol
Does anyone have a guess as to what colored flesh I will get from this DF plant? I first posted about this plant when I first received it from a online nursery that claimed they were selling me the selenecerious megalanhus variety which I was told by members here that I was not given the correct plant. Since then it has grown and the first picture shows growth from last year and the second picture shows this year's growth. The last picture shows the originally growth when I receive it and you can see how small the original growth is compared to last year and current year's growth which is about 3-4 inches in diameter. I noticed that the ridges are more straight than my purple haze, S8, physical graffiti and NOID red variety.
Does anyone have a guess as to what colored flesh this one would be? And I wonder why the new growth is bigger in diameter than the original growth when I receive it.
Does anyone have a guess as to what colored flesh I will get from this DF plant? I first posted about this plant when I first received it from a online nursery that claimed they were selling me the selenecerious megalanhus variety which I was told by members here that I was not given the correct plant. Since then it has grown and the first picture shows growth from last year and the second picture shows this year's growth. The last picture shows the originally growth when I receive it and you can see how small the original growth is compared to last year and current year's growth which is about 3-4 inches in diameter. I noticed that the ridges are more straight than my purple haze, S8, physical graffiti and NOID red variety.
Does anyone have a guess as to what colored flesh this one would be? And I wonder why the new growth is bigger in diameter than the original growth when I receive it.
It's common new growths can be smaller or larger then the original cutting. If you had planted it in shade against a wall I guarantee the new growths will be small. New growths will have aerial roots cling onto the wall and climb. They will conserve energy by growing narrowly try to climb out of shade into light. Conversely if someone sold you a cutting that lack exposure to light it would be narrower. But if you treat it well, build a nice trellis for it to climb and give it plenty of sun, new growths will grow larger.
Its difficult to identify flesh color by the stem. It's definitely not a S. Megalanthus. Whatever it is I hope it produces great tasting fruits which in my opinion is more important then color :)
For those that are growing DF in pots. What's the longest you have them in the pots? A lady on YouTube explained to one of her viewers that it's best to be grown in ground and that if grown in pots, you'll have to start over in 2-3 years cause the roots will run out of soil. Your thoughts on this.
For those that are growing DF in pots. What's the longest you have them in the pots? A lady on YouTube explained to one of her viewers that it's best to be grown in ground and that if grown in pots, you'll have to start over in 2-3 years cause the roots will run out of soil. Your thoughts on this.
Yes and No. If you have a gopher problem like I do... then planting them in the ground is not an advantage.
You can extend the time before repotting by adding soil amendments and mulch to the pot.
I have some that have been in pots for 5 years. I can imagine cutting the pot off, removing most of the soil from the roots, and replacing the pot and potting soil if the plant was supported by a trellis not connected to the old pot.
Would you still need to repot if you placed the potted plant ontop of a garden bed? Since I was thinking since there's drainage holes on the bottom of the pot that the roots would find their way down into the garden soil. Can that be done and not be repotted?
Would you still need to repot if you placed the potted plant ontop of a garden bed? Since I was thinking since there's drainage holes on the bottom of the pot that the roots would find their way down into the garden soil. Can that be done and not be repotted?
If you are going to do that... do what California commercial Dragon Fruit grower Gray Martin does, he plants all of his Dragon Fruit on top of the ground in pots with the bottom cut off.
A recent article about Gray Martin: Dragon fruit grows well in SoCal http://villagenews.com/homeandgarden/dragon-fruit-grows-well-in-socal/ (http://villagenews.com/homeandgarden/dragon-fruit-grows-well-in-socal/)
Totally depends on the size of the pot. a 15 gallon container should accommodate a plant for its entire life. Smaller pots might restrict growth and end up being root bound. Given the option, I would grow all my plants in pots from now on, as it makes water and nutrient management so much easier to control, plus it protects from most garden pests that bother roots. But, if you are concerned about appearance, you can plant in the soil. Or you can do both, by digging a hole large enough to sink a plastic or ceramic pot into the ground, up to its rim, and then planting that way. Try and add a foot or so of gravel under the pot for drainage and offset your post/trellis so it doesn't penetrate your pot and you can sport healthy plants and hidden containers.
I'm not sure if mine are 15 gallon containers. They're about 11 inches in diameter both top and bottom and about 11 inches tall. So it's 11x11x11 .. would that suffice? Aesthetics is not my main concern so I don't mind having the pots out of the ground. I just hate having the idea of having to repot these after several years. My neighbor has hers growing in the same size container but she has at least 3-4 cuttings in that one pot where as I only have 1 cutting. She said it was ok to grow in pot. Wish I had asked around.
I'm not sure if mine are 15 gallon containers. They're about 11 inches in diameter both top and bottom and about 11 inches tall. So it's 11x11x11 .. would that suffice? Aesthetics is not my main concern so I don't mind having the pots out of the ground. I just hate having the idea of having to repot these after several years. My neighbor has hers growing in the same size container but she has at least 3-4 cuttings in that one pot where as I only have 1 cutting. She said it was ok to grow in pot. Wish I had asked around.
That sound about right... if you are planning on cutting the bottom out and placing on the ground.
Last month a couple of my friends visited Gray Martin and posted some pictures on Facebook Los Angeles Dragon Fruit Growers.
(https://s27.postimg.cc/4vc7mgin3/g_martin1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4vc7mgin3/)
(https://s27.postimg.cc/tpvpgj3hb/g_martin2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/tpvpgj3hb/)
Totally depends on the size of the pot. a 15 gallon container should accommodate a plant for its entire life. Smaller pots might restrict growth and end up being root bound. Given the option, I would grow all my plants in pots from now on, as it makes water and nutrient management so much easier to control, plus it protects from most garden pests that bother roots. But, if you are concerned about appearance, you can plant in the soil. Or you can do both, by digging a hole large enough to sink a plastic or ceramic pot into the ground, up to its rim, and then planting that way. Try and add a foot or so of gravel under the pot for drainage and offset your post/trellis so it doesn't penetrate your pot and you can sport healthy plants and hidden containers.
I'm not sure if mine are 15 gallon containers. They're about 11 inches in diameter both top and bottom and about 11 inches tall. So it's 11x11x11 .. would that suffice? Aesthetics is not my main concern so I don't mind having the pots out of the ground. I just hate having the idea of having to repot these after several years. My neighbor has hers growing in the same size container but she has at least 3-4 cuttings in that one pot where as I only have 1 cutting. She said it was ok to grow in pot. Wish I had asked around.
I've cast 5-1/2 inch square reinforced concrete posts with a galvanized 1/2" threaded bolt coming out of the top of each post:
(https://s29.postimg.cc/5fa1u3ahf/DSC01073_2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/5fa1u3ahf/)
For the post tops I designed an 18" diameter x 2" thick concrete disk to be bolted on top of each post. The molds were devised using a steel ring and four tapered plastic party cups to create holes which the DF branches can pass through and gently emerge. I just unmolded the first one:
(https://s29.postimg.cc/rfqeapt5f/DSC01089_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/rfqeapt5f/)
I expect these to outlast me, perhaps some archaeologist will find them some day and declare it a latter day Stonehenge with some outlandish religious significance!
I added a threaded bolt to the top of my DIY concrete posts.
Totally depends on the size of the pot. a 15 gallon container should accommodate a plant for its entire life. Smaller pots might restrict growth and end up being root bound. Given the option, I would grow all my plants in pots from now on, as it makes water and nutrient management so much easier to control, plus it protects from most garden pests that bother roots. But, if you are concerned about appearance, you can plant in the soil. Or you can do both, by digging a hole large enough to sink a plastic or ceramic pot into the ground, up to its rim, and then planting that way. Try and add a foot or so of gravel under the pot for drainage and offset your post/trellis so it doesn't penetrate your pot and you can sport healthy plants and hidden containers.
I'm not sure if mine are 15 gallon containers. They're about 11 inches in diameter both top and bottom and about 11 inches tall. So it's 11x11x11 .. would that suffice? Aesthetics is not my main concern so I don't mind having the pots out of the ground. I just hate having the idea of having to repot these after several years. My neighbor has hers growing in the same size container but she has at least 3-4 cuttings in that one pot where as I only have 1 cutting. She said it was ok to grow in pot. Wish I had asked around.
11x11 is a 5gal pot. I am growing several in 5, 7, 10, and 15gal pots. I started with 5gal last year and some of them bloomed and fruit this year. they are all above ground level and most of their roots havent penetrated the bottom of the pots. I custom built trellis which sit inside the pots. the advantage is I can easily move them around if necessary to avoid direct sun uv and/or against a south facing wall for frost protection. this is the first year of my experimentation of 5gal plants so I dont have a whole of of data other then it work.
(https://s2.postimg.cc/ou41inkg5/IMG_4105.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ou41inkg5/)
(https://s2.postimg.cc/rph4piog5/IMG_4394.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/rph4piog5/)
(https://s2.postimg.cc/6tuue9s91/IMG_4417.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6tuue9s91/)
(https://s2.postimg.cc/65lzvbtj9/IMG_4100.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/65lzvbtj9/)
(https://s2.postimg.cc/rtay5rtxh/IMG_4335.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/rtay5rtxh/)
Totally depends on the size of the pot. a 15 gallon container should accommodate a plant for its entire life. Smaller pots might restrict growth and end up being root bound. Given the option, I would grow all my plants in pots from now on, as it makes water and nutrient management so much easier to control, plus it protects from most garden pests that bother roots. But, if you are concerned about appearance, you can plant in the soil. Or you can do both, by digging a hole large enough to sink a plastic or ceramic pot into the ground, up to its rim, and then planting that way. Try and add a foot or so of gravel under the pot for drainage and offset your post/trellis so it doesn't penetrate your pot and you can sport healthy plants and hidden containers.
I'm not sure if mine are 15 gallon containers. They're about 11 inches in diameter both top and bottom and about 11 inches tall. So it's 11x11x11 .. would that suffice? Aesthetics is not my main concern so I don't mind having the pots out of the ground. I just hate having the idea of having to repot these after several years. My neighbor has hers growing in the same size container but she has at least 3-4 cuttings in that one pot where as I only have 1 cutting. She said it was ok to grow in pot. Wish I had asked around.
11x11 is a 5gal pot. I am growing several in 5, 7, 10, and 15gal pots. I started with 5gal last year and some of them bloomed and fruit this year. they are all above ground level and most of their roots havent penetrated the bottom of the pots. I custom built trellis which sit inside the pots. the advantage is I can easily move them around if necessary to avoid direct sun uv and/or against a south facing wall for frost protection. this is the first year of my experimentation of 5gal plants so I dont have a whole of of data other then it work.
Aww.. I had a feeling it wasn't big enough. I've had them in the 5 gal pots for two years and the roots haven't penetrated the bottom either. I'm going to experiment too and see how long they last in 5 gal pots since I'm going to have more cuttings than I need in the next two years. For now the ones that I've planted in 5 gal pots that are above garden soil, I've already cut the bottoms out. I'm going to use the extra space I have against the wall of my house without the bottoms cut out and see how long they can go.
What is the name of the variety you have in the last picture? The flower is a gorgeous color!
:PTotally depends on the size of the pot. a 15 gallon container should accommodate a plant for its entire life. Smaller pots might restrict growth and end up being root bound. Given the option, I would grow all my plants in pots from now on, as it makes water and nutrient management so much easier to control, plus it protects from most garden pests that bother roots. But, if you are concerned about appearance, you can plant in the soil. Or you can do both, by digging a hole large enough to sink a plastic or ceramic pot into the ground, up to its rim, and then planting that way. Try and add a foot or so of gravel under the pot for drainage and offset your post/trellis so it doesn't penetrate your pot and you can sport healthy plants and hidden containers.
I'm not sure if mine are 15 gallon containers. They're about 11 inches in diameter both top and bottom and about 11 inches tall. So it's 11x11x11 .. would that suffice? Aesthetics is not my main concern so I don't mind having the pots out of the ground. I just hate having the idea of having to repot these after several years. My neighbor has hers growing in the same size container but she has at least 3-4 cuttings in that one pot where as I only have 1 cutting. She said it was ok to grow in pot. Wish I had asked around.
11x11 is a 5gal pot. I am growing several in 5, 7, 10, and 15gal pots. I started with 5gal last year and some of them bloomed and fruit this year. they are all above ground level and most of their roots havent penetrated the bottom of the pots. I custom built trellis which sit inside the pots. the advantage is I can easily move them around if necessary to avoid direct sun uv and/or against a south facing wall for frost protection. this is the first year of my experimentation of 5gal plants so I dont have a whole of of data other then it work.
Aww.. I had a feeling it wasn't big enough. I've had them in the 5 gal pots for two years and the roots haven't penetrated the bottom either. I'm going to experiment too and see how long they last in 5 gal pots since I'm going to have more cuttings than I need in the next two years. For now the ones that I've planted in 5 gal pots that are above garden soil, I've already cut the bottoms out. I'm going to use the extra space I have against the wall of my house without the bottoms cut out and see how long they can go.
What is the name of the variety you have in the last picture? The flower is a gorgeous color!
Two years should be mature enough to bloom and fruit. Don't over water otherwise your plant keep push new growths instead of flowers. Cut the tips from those hanging stems like the first picture. Try using some blooming fertilizer like Scotts Super Bloom. Your plant is still young I would use twice a month BUT don't over do it. You should stop using it by the end of Sept. it takes 30 days to flower and another 30+ to ripen fruit. you don't want to over stress your plant going into winter.
The last plant is Bruni. It's a close sister of Connie Mayer. The flower was beautiful.
(https://s30.postimg.cc/8qr4tf5x9/IMG_4283.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8qr4tf5x9/)
(https://s30.postimg.cc/wvrub4q7x/IMG_4284.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/wvrub4q7x/)
(https://s30.postimg.cc/k5nly1i9p/IMG_4285.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/k5nly1i9p/)
(https://s30.postimg.cc/mcwfzpcxp/IMG_4289.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/mcwfzpcxp/)
I'm not sure if mine are 15 gallon containers. They're about 11 inches in diameter both top and bottom and about 11 inches tall. So it's 11x11x11 .. would that suffice.If that container is a cube, then 11 x 11 x 11 = 1,331 cubic inches, which is about 5.7 gallons.
I'm not sure if mine are 15 gallon containers. They're about 11 inches in diameter both top and bottom and about 11 inches tall. So it's 11x11x11 .. would that suffice.If that container is a cube, then 11 x 11 x 11 = 1,331 cubic inches, which is about 5.7 gallons.
If it's a cylinder then it's 1,044 cubic inches, which is about 4.5 gallons.
That seems a bit small for my tastes. I'm using ~11 gallon terra cotta pots, and I put 3-4 stems in each.
Just ate my first homegrown dragon fruit! It was sweet, but not a lot of flavor. My wife and daughter liked it whereas they didn't like store bought dragon fruit. It was a la Verne red purchased from HD.
(https://s29.postimg.cc/sjjr7rrf7/20170821_174357.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/sjjr7rrf7/)
(https://s29.postimg.cc/inio84ln7/20170820_185717.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/inio84ln7/)
You guys...is this what I think it is?!? It's my first year growing my cuttings and this Haley comet already had a beautiful flower and now looks like a fruit is starting to form?! I'm so so excited! :)
Do I need to do anything special at this time? More or less watering?
(https://s29.postimg.cc/ph35iasc3/IMG_8408.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ph35iasc3/)
oh bummer! I thought I saw a baby fruit starting to grow :(
That looks delicious. I've eaten both store bought white and red flesh varieties and they're really bland except that the red flesh one is a tad sweeter than the white flesh one.
I did not attend this year.
Pictures are being posted on Facebook of today's Dragon Fruit Production Tour.
They may give some hobbyists some ideas.
Ric,
In your video of 2014 irrigation trials, the plants are absolutely white with scale. What sort of results does that give?
(https://s28.postimg.cc/bpo90m609/image1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/bpo90m609/)
Note: "Topics to be Discussed"
Whoa! I just found a monster dragon fruit planting, right near the McDonalds that I frequent in Lomita, CA:
(http://www.kan.org/pictures/LomitaDragonFruit1.jpg)
(http://www.kan.org/pictures/LomitaDragonFruit2.jpg)
(http://www.kan.org/pictures/LomitaDragonFruit3.jpg)
It's not as big as the one from ricshaw's photo (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=13889.msg175814#msg175814), but it's pretty impressive, especially for Los Angeles.
Look at that stem in the 3rd photo! It's as big around as my biceps, and there's a second one around the back.
There are plenty of blooms on it right now (lower right of photo #1) but I saw zero fruit set. They probably need pollinators and/or different pollen.
I removed the geotag from the photos, but if anyone in LA wants to make a pilgrimage, send me a PM.
What I saw was a new planting and wondered why all the plants were white?Ric,
In your video of 2014 irrigation trials, the plants are absolutely white with scale. What sort of results does that give?
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ How little water can be used? ::)
Remember: The UC Farm Advisory trials are research.
UCCE MVP Farms Pitahaya/Dragon Fruit Field Day-October 3, 2014 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PQtTYheWy8)
What I saw was a new planting and wondered why all the plants were white?
(https://s2.postimg.cc/x986i2j9h/trial1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/x986i2j9h/)
Then you zoomed in and I could see the total scale infestation.
(https://s2.postimg.cc/vwv2txb7p/trial2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vwv2txb7p/)
I'm sure there are PhD entomologists at UC who could have diagnosed that, anybody could see it. In a research project that is really called a "confounding factor", a no-go introducing a variable which could introduce a spurious result.
I think some people in Florida don't realize how dry and different California weather is compared to Vietnam, Malaysia, Colombia, Ecuador, and Florida.
I think some people in Florida don't realize how dry and different California weather is compared to Vietnam, Malaysia, Colombia, Ecuador, and Florida.
Yup. Especially Southern California. Many areas are, climatologically-speaking, a desert. In many years we get less than 10" of rain. (http://articles.latimes.com/2009/feb/02/local/me-annual-rain-graphic2)
I can't think of any food crops in S. California that are not irrigated.
I have both varieties and have tasted both varieties. I would highly recommend planting both.
S8 or Sugar Dragon is a universal pollinator and has multiple crops a season. It's production is very high, probably due to the very small size of the fruit but the eating quality is exceptional. Because it produces so many flowers throughout the year, you will have a better chance of it cross pollinating any other variety of DF planted in your yard. The flavor of the fruit is very sweet with a hint of berry acidity common to the varieties with purplish pink colored flesh.
I highly recommend also planting Frankie's Red because it will extend your season. FR ripens from about now until Winter. It ripens kinda in between the red/Purple/white and the S Megalanthus but there is overlap. To really extend the season, also plant the S/H Megalanthus for very late fruit. The FR is a sweet fruit with flavor that is a mix of the Megalanthus and the Red/purple varieties. The fruit are typically larger than the S8. The fruit also has spines on it like the Megalanthus so they are less likely to be eaten by varmin.
Simon
I think some people in Florida don't realize how dry and different California weather is compared to Vietnam, Malaysia, Colombia, Ecuador, and Florida.
Yup. Especially Southern California. Many areas are, climatologically-speaking, a desert. In many years we get less than 10" of rain. (http://articles.latimes.com/2009/feb/02/local/me-annual-rain-graphic2)
I can't think of any food crops in S. California that are not irrigated.
Prickly pear cactus does ok
I think some people in Florida don't realize how dry and different California weather is compared to Vietnam, Malaysia, Colombia, Ecuador, and Florida.
Yup. Especially Southern California. Many areas are, climatologically-speaking, a desert. In many years we get less than 10" of rain. (http://articles.latimes.com/2009/feb/02/local/me-annual-rain-graphic2)
I can't think of any food crops in S. California that are not irrigated.
Prickly pear cactus does ok
You should grow a Peruvian Apple. Very sweet fruit with crunchy seed like sugar crystals. Absolutely delicious.
I have two S-8 cuttings (thanks, Ric!) that have rooted and that are growing now, but I'm probably at least a year from having flowers.
Speaking of which, I probably need to build at least 1 or 2 more trellises. I know how I'm spending my weekend!
That's great! I too have some S8 cuttings that are in the same position as yours. Now I'm just looking to see if I can find a Frankie's red.
I didn't know la Verne nursery sells the yellow one. Did you order online?
After some thought I think I like my design for the bottom of the trellis and Tim's for the top. So I modeled it in Sketchup (https://www.sketchup.com):For support you might try something like this:I'm pretty happy with how the bottom part turned out, and with the overall strength. I'm 220#, and I can hang from the top supports without any scary creaky sounds. It should be able to handle whatever grows through it.
(http://www.kan.org/pictures/LaVernePink22Months.jpg)
But I wasn't really thinking very clearly when I made the top a mirror of the bottom. As it is I have to thread the vertical stems through the gaps between the 2 x 4s, and there really isn't much in the way of lateral supports for the horizontal branches. I might nail some 2 x 4s diagonally across the corners of the top supports, but that makes for a funky miter angle.
Due to the way I've nailed these together, disassembly is pretty much impossible.
If I were to do these over again I'd probably do something like what Tim did at the top of his trellises (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=1592.msg21914#msg21914):(http://s16.postimage.org/6z3wi50td/IMAG0061.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/6z3wi50td/)
except bigger. Come to think of it, I could use Tim's design both top and bottom. From what I can see it uses less wood and labor.
Nice flower, SandyL!
I'm excited, too. My La Verne Yellow just pushed out its first buds:
(http://ftp.kan.org/pictures/MegalanthusFlowering.jpg)
I hope it's self-fertile, because I don't have any other similar varieties around, and I'm sort of assuming it won't cross with regular DF, correct?
Then again even my regular DFs won't pollinate each other. I've been putting La Verne Pink's pollen on my Physical Graffiti and vice versa, but neither has set any fruit yet. >:( >:(
Hey fellow dragonfruit growers! I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this. Have a couple questions!
My plants (where I got them from) were started as tissue cultures. I read that growing from seed can take years to produce, are tissue cultures the same? Or would it be similar to a small cutting?
Also, what size pot do y'all recommend for small plants? (Under 1 foot tall)
Hey fellow dragonfruit growers! I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this. Have a couple questions!
My plants (where I got them from) were started as tissue cultures. I read that growing from seed can take years to produce, are tissue cultures the same? Or would it be similar to a small cutting?
Also, what size pot do y'all recommend for small plants? (Under 1 foot tall)
How long will it take for a 6" cutting to bear fruit ?
How long will it take for a 6" cutting to bear fruit ?
Depends. Nor Cal? 2 - 3 years.
Depend on how long it takes for you to make it grow big. I think Richard's estimate is if you do everything right.
Just start right now and you'll get fruits sooner. Get at least one self-pollinating plant so you don't have to wait for different varieties to flower at the same time for pollen. It's frustrating for beginning growers when they have the first flower and no others to get pollen from.
After some thought I think I like my design for the bottom of the trellis and Tim's for the top. So I modeled it in Sketchup (https://www.sketchup.com):
(http://www.kan.org/pictures/DragonFruitTrellisDesign.jpg)
There's a free version of Sketchup (see link, above), so anyone can download the model (http://ftp.kan.org/pictures/DragonFruitTrellisDesign.skp), view it, modify it, etc. It's dimensionally accurate, so you can click on segments and get lengths, etc.
It's a pretty big trellis; the center 4 x 4 post is 6' tall. The upper "clear" distance/radius around the center post is 1' in both directions, and the bottom arms extend 2' from the center post. It could probably be scaled down, but I like to overbuild things. ;D
I got lucky with a big-box bought plant. It took right around ~18 months to give me my first two fruit.How long will it take for a 6" cutting to bear fruit ?
Depends. Nor Cal? 2 - 3 years.
How long will it take for a 6" cutting to bear fruit ?
How long will it take for a 6" cutting to bear fruit ?
under the right condition 12 months. I have 3 plants bloomed and 2 fruited from cuttings I got last year. all of the cuttings were matured with blooms before rooted them. I only kept 1 upward stem from my plants. once they reached the top of my trellis I cut it to promote side growths (like an umbrella). SoCal weather has been warmer than usual this year. probably one of the reasons contributed to faster growth.
1) bruni 12" cutting in 5gal container - 11 months (1 flower and fruit is set)
2) unknown white 12" cutting in 10gal container - 13 months (1 flower bloomed last week, not sure if it will set. most likely does cuz it seems like a self pollinate variety)
3) S8 hybrid 8" cutting in 5gal container - 12 months ( 3 flowers and all set)
Hi guys,
Hi have a couple of doubts about DF varieties I hope you can help me out with:
Anybody has tasted or grown Pepino Dulce? There is little info in internet. Being white, is as good as the top tier purple flesh ones?
I have preselected 4 purple flesh varieties to plant: Condor, Cosmic charlie, Halley's Comet and S8 Sugar Dragon.
Would you replace some of the list for other variety/s? I rate first taste, then autofertile/autopollination and then to extend the harvest AMAP (I already have yellow megalanthus).
Thanks,
(https://s26.postimg.cc/miz2s19mt/IMG_0741.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/miz2s19mt/)
(https://s26.postimg.cc/xwlm38k5h/IMG_0742.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/xwlm38k5h/)
(https://s26.postimg.cc/701mux1c5/IMG_0743.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/701mux1c5/)
Hi Everyone, I was looking for some advice. I have a few dragonfruit in various stages of ripeness. I also have a few friends who are coming into town next Sunday (9/17) who i have promised said dragonfruit to. I would like the fruit to be as good as possible and was wondering if it would be better to pick the fruit that is dead ripe now and store in the fridge, or if it would be better to leave the ripe fruit on the vine until next Sunday even though it is perfectly ripe now. I have previously left dragonfruit in the fridge for a little over a week and it seemed good, just wondering if anyone knows if it is better to leave on the vine. Thanks for any help and suggestions.
I hope this question doesn't sound silly. But how do you tell if the flower you pollinated set or not? Thanks!
I hope this question doesn't sound silly. But how do you tell if the flower you pollinated set or not? Thanks!
The way I can tell is in a couple days the main part of the flower connected to the stem does not turn yellow.
(https://s26.postimg.cc/miz2s19mt/IMG_0741.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/miz2s19mt/)
(https://s26.postimg.cc/xwlm38k5h/IMG_0742.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/xwlm38k5h/)
(https://s26.postimg.cc/701mux1c5/IMG_0743.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/701mux1c5/)
Hi Everyone, I was looking for some advice. I have a few dragonfruit in various stages of ripeness. I also have a few friends who are coming into town next Sunday (9/17) who i have promised said dragonfruit to. I would like the fruit to be as good as possible and was wondering if it would be better to pick the fruit that is dead ripe now and store in the fridge, or if it would be better to leave the ripe fruit on the vine until next Sunday even though it is perfectly ripe now. I have previously left dragonfruit in the fridge for a little over a week and it seemed good, just wondering if anyone knows if it is better to leave on the vine. Thanks for any help and suggestions.
I will not call it dead ripe. Normally I leave the fruit on the vine as long as I can. Watch for rodents and splits though.
I'm thinking about experimenting with growing DF from seeds. How long can the seeds stay viable for if kept refrigerated and when's the best time to sow?
I'm thinking about experimenting with growing DF from seeds. How long can the seeds stay viable for if kept refrigerated and when's the best time to sow?
??? Why do the seeds have to be refrigerated?
I would just clean them good, dry them, and store them in a small zip-loc bag.
Hi guys,
Hi have a couple of doubts about DF varieties I hope you can help me out with:
Anybody has tasted or grown Pepino Dulce? There is little info in internet. Being white, is as good as the top tier purple flesh ones?
I have preselected 4 purple flesh varieties to plant: Condor, Cosmic charlie, Halley's Comet and S8 Sugar Dragon.
Would you replace some of the list for other variety/s? I rate first taste, then autofertile/autopollination and then to extend the harvest AMAP (I already have yellow megalanthus).
Thanks,
Taste is subjective. I doubt that many (anybody) would rate Pepino Dulce's taste as good as top tier purple flesh varieties.
I would substitute Physical Graffiti for one of your preselected varieties. Physical Graffiti is in the same taste range and is a high yield flower/fruit producer.
I do not consider S-8 (Sugar Dragon) a purple-flesh variety. It is more of a red-flesh variety.
Post hurricane recovery for dragon fruit.
Need some help and info.
Some branches snapped right off and I assume a clean cut believe the break is in order.
Some bent, broke but did not break off.
What should I do about those?
A couple have flours and I want to save them if possible.
Bad news: the owner of this house apparently passed away recently.The gate was open a few days ago, so I walked in. It's wonderful! There are 4 giant Dragonfruit vines climbing up 4 trees! There's also some nice citrus, fig, and pomegranates, but we're all here for the DF, so I'll ignore those others for now. Look at the lower branches/roots on the first one! I have OJ-sized hands:
Good news: he willed the property to the City of Lomita to develop into Teuchert Park (https://www.yelp.com/biz/teuchert-park-lomita)! It's beautiful! So now anyone can go (https://www.google.com/maps/place/Teuchert+Park/@33.7874647,-118.3132987,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x80dd4a71e21bccb1:0x382f0d5fafdef66b!8m2!3d33.7874647!4d-118.31111) and view this extraordinary dragonfruit plant.
Bad news: There are dozens of dropped blossoms on the ground, and no fruit set. This may need a cross-pollinator.
Good news: I might sneak into the park some time and stealth-plant another variety :D
Bad news: There are no hours posted, and when I stopped by yesterday evening, the gate was locked. >:(
In more pedestrian news, last night I had two varieties flower simultaneously, for the first time ever! La Verne Pink and Physical Graffiti.
I'm 0/10 on crossing these two so far, but I've always used stored pollen, so maybe my storage/freezing technique is poor.
Last night I transferred the fresh pollen directly from flower to flower, so if they're compatible, this should work. Fingers crossed!
My yellow and my white varieties are also pushing buds right now, so I might finally get my first fruit this season.
I have two S-8 plants that I put in pots about a year ago, and they took a looooong time to get going. But they're growing now, and might have flowers next year. I hope.In more pedestrian news, last night I had two varieties flower simultaneously, for the first time ever! La Verne Pink and Physical Graffiti.I have a 6 year old LaVerne Red taking me 3 years to find the right pollinator. S8 is the right key.
I'm 0/10 on crossing these two so far, but I've always used stored pollen, so maybe my storage/freezing technique is poor.
Last night I transferred the fresh pollen directly from flower to flower, so if they're compatible, this should work. Fingers crossed!
My yellow and my white varieties are also pushing buds right now, so I might finally get my first fruit this season.
In more pedestrian news, last night I had two varieties flower simultaneously, for the first time ever! La Verne Pink and Physical Graffiti.
I'm 0/10 on crossing these two so far, but I've always used stored pollen, so maybe my storage/freezing technique is poor.
Last night I transferred the fresh pollen directly from flower to flower, so if they're compatible, this should work. Fingers crossed!
My yellow and my white varieties are also pushing buds right now, so I might finally get my first fruit this season.
Sandy, unless youre planning on doing cross-pollination experimentation, I would avoid growing from seeds. I would almost say don't do it. Not only are you going to add years to your wait for fruit production, you're also going to be playing roulette with the type of fruit you get when the plant matures. The preferred method for reproducing dragon fruit is from cuttings for a reason: you know exactly what youre going to get, a copy of the plant the cutting came from. Seeds have a random chance of picking up traits, both good and bad, from their parent plants. And if you self-pollinate, theres a chance you can come up with weak or genetically inferior stock. Self-pollination is fine for fruit production, because we're eating the flesh of the plant, basically the unaltered womb of the mother plant, but the developing seeds (aka offspring) can still end up undesirable. However, if you do plan on trying your hand at finding new varieties, wash your seeds, dry them and store them in an air tight container, preferably with one of those Silica Gel packs that come in packaging, the ones that say "Do Not Eat" on them. This will keep your seeds dry for storage.
Hello guys, my dragonfuit is flowering for the first time, it is big. Is this normal?
(https://s26.postimg.cc/alw3rkxol/20170917_183429.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/alw3rkxol/)
(https://s26.postimg.cc/4mcy1o29x/20170917_183532.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4mcy1o29x/)
I got my Dragon Fruit bed set up this week. 10 posts planted with 4 cuttings each of a good fruiting self pollinating pink fleshed variety found already growing on the property. Mixed pineapple intercrop underneath the posts. Irrigation is with micro-sprinklers and each post is surrounded by compost. I'm using Nutricote slow release fertilizer and will also include foliar feeding with home made fish emulsion.
(https://s26.postimg.cc/ih0fx5plh/DSC01150_1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ih0fx5plh/)
Guys, what's happening to my dragon fruit trees? Do I need to cut that part that have the disease off? Also, on the second pic, why is that flower turning yellow? Please help
(https://s25.postimg.cc/kguwqsw0r/IMG_5925.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/kguwqsw0r/)
(https://s25.postimg.cc/rwu6cs6x7/IMG_5928.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/rwu6cs6x7/)
Guys, what's happening to my dragon fruit trees? Do I need to cut that part that have the disease off? Also, on the second pic, why is that flower turning yellow? Please help
(https://s25.postimg.cc/kguwqsw0r/IMG_5925.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/kguwqsw0r/)
(https://s25.postimg.cc/rwu6cs6x7/IMG_5928.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/rwu6cs6x7/)
I have the same problem getting orange spots on my dragon fruit. Should I cut the branch?
(https://s25.postimg.cc/ydk6nhjln/20170930_082949.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ydk6nhjln/)
In more pedestrian news, last night I had two varieties flower simultaneously, for the first time ever! La Verne Pink and Physical Graffiti.And I have fruit set! La Verne Pink:
I'm 0/10 on crossing these two so far, but I've always used stored pollen, so maybe my storage/freezing technique is poor.
Last night I transferred the fresh pollen directly from flower to flower, so if they're compatible, this should work. Fingers crossed!
And I have fruit set! La Verne Pink:
and Physical Graffiti:
It's only 2 fruits, but that's ∞ better than no fruit.
When I should I pick them? Does this guy have it right (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_pvr1Q9tqE)? He sure sounds authoritative :D
I have the same problem getting orange spots on my dragon fruit
(https://s25.postimg.cc/ydk6nhjln/20170930_082949.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ydk6nhjln/)
My yellow df has a flower developing for the first time, but it's already October. Considering the slow speed of yellow df, do you think I can realistically expect fruit for next year? Or will frost kill it?The fruit can hang on the vine until next year and then ripen. If your area gets too cold, it can rot.
My yellow df has a flower developing for the first time, but it's already October. Considering the slow speed of yellow df, do you think I can realistically expect fruit for next year? Or will frost kill it?
A couple of thoughts:
- This park is going to be _full_ of flowers in 4-6 weeks, when the next flush of flowers blooms.
It's a physical graffiti that I got from my neighbor. i just need another variety to cross pollinate.
Wow I thought it wasn't self-fertile thanks for the info. How much do you water your DF when it has fruit?
Wow I thought it wasn't self-fertile thanks for the info. How much do you water your DF when it has fruit?
So the news about the yellow dragon being imported into the U.S is true! I bought this at the market today! The price was something else to be desired though. Selling at around $8.99 per pound at the market I found it in. The one I picked was a bigger than an egg. They had several sizes to choose from. I think I saw a bigger one there which should be around the 1 pound range. Mine didn't have the sticker on it but if I recall correctly, I think it said it was imported from Columbia. I'll go back next weekend and find the ones with the sticker to be sure if they still have any left. I must say I really like the yellow variety. It is sweeter than the ones I've tried so far which but is the plain red and white varieties.
Now I want a cutting of this variety. Other than that, I guess the price is going to stay high since it's newly imported to the states. So I guess it'll be a while till the price goes down.
Other big news is the importation on the yellow Giant Megalanthus dragon fruit from Ecuador.
This DF is super sweet. A friend measured 25 BRIX.
(https://s1.postimg.cc/2nestz8fgb/IMG_1759.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/2nestz8fgb/)
(https://s1.postimg.cc/91tepkuu17/IMG_1761.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/91tepkuu17/)
(https://s1.postimg.cc/63fuo91iob/IMG_4021.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/63fuo91iob/)
Hi,
Has anyone ever seen a dragon fruit morphed as part of the plant?
I grow quite a bit of dragon fruit but this is the first time I have seen this.
Does anyone know what could cause this?
Its going to be interesting to see what the inside of the fruit looks like when I cut it tomorrow.
Jo
So the news about the yellow dragon being imported into the U.S is true! I bought this at the market today! The price was something else to be desired though. Selling at around $8.99 per pound at the market I found it in. The one I picked was a bigger than an egg. They had several sizes to choose from. I think I saw a bigger one there which should be around the 1 pound range. Mine didn't have the sticker on it but if I recall correctly, I think it said it was imported from Columbia. I'll go back next weekend and find the ones with the sticker to be sure if they still have any left. I must say I really like the yellow variety. It is sweeter than the ones I've tried so far which but is the plain red and white varieties.
Now I want a cutting of this variety. Other than that, I guess the price is going to stay high since it's newly imported to the states. So I guess it'll be a while till the price goes down.
Other big news is the importation on the yellow Giant Megalanthus dragon fruit from Ecuador.
This DF is super sweet. A friend measured 25 BRIX.
(https://s1.postimg.cc/2nestz8fgb/IMG_1759.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/2nestz8fgb/)
(https://s1.postimg.cc/91tepkuu17/IMG_1761.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/91tepkuu17/)
Hi,Growing near a nuclear power plant? :o
Has anyone ever seen a dragon fruit morphed as part of the plant?
I grow quite a bit of dragon fruit but this is the first time I have seen this.
Does anyone know what could cause this?
Its going to be interesting to see what the inside of the fruit looks like when I cut it tomorrow.
Jo
Thanks SandyL.
I watched the YouTube channel by Spicyexoctics you suggested and it explains how this happened with him.
Really interested.
Thanks much,
Jo
Here’s a picture of a giant Megalanthus I ate a while back. http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=8090.msg180054#msg180054 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=8090.msg180054#msg180054)
I have one small giant yellow Megalanthus but it will probably be years before it’s big enough to sell cuttings. If anyone has the giant Megalanthus cuttings, I definitely want to buy!
Simon
So the news about the yellow dragon being imported into the U.S is true! I bought this at the market today! The price was something else to be desired though. Selling at around $8.99 per pound at the market I found it in. The one I picked was a bigger than an egg. They had several sizes to choose from. I think I saw a bigger one there which should be around the 1 pound range. Mine didn't have the sticker on it but if I recall correctly, I think it said it was imported from Columbia. I'll go back next weekend and find the ones with the sticker to be sure if they still have any left. I must say I really like the yellow variety. It is sweeter than the ones I've tried so far which but is the plain red and white varieties.
Now I want a cutting of this variety. Other than that, I guess the price is going to stay high since it's newly imported to the states. So I guess it'll be a while till the price goes down.
Other big news is the importation on the yellow Giant Megalanthus dragon fruit from Ecuador.
This DF is super sweet. A friend measured 25 BRIX.
(https://s1.postimg.cc/2nestz8fgb/IMG_1759.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/2nestz8fgb/)
(https://s1.postimg.cc/91tepkuu17/IMG_1761.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/91tepkuu17/)
Oh and where did your friend find the Giant yellow and will he be willing to share some of the seeds?
Its an uncommon result to a very common occurrence in growing dragon fruit. When a new portion of a plant grows, the hormone level determines if the new growth is either a new branch or a new flower. Most of the time there's little to no 'reproduction hormone' so the new growth ends up being a branch. When the season and conditions are right, hormone production ramps up and you see more flower production. However, if its borderline, you can have new shoots start as one thing and then revert to the other. Most of the time you get fruit buds aborting back to branches, and you end up with a new branch with a distinct 6 sided start, like two branches growing through each other. However, sometimes, you can get a branch start that ends up getting an extra little push into fruit-hood, and then you end up with this, which is a branch that changed into a fruit state, then changed back to a branch, and the plant continued growing through the fruity part. Its best to go ahead and remove this once youre done admiring it, as the fruit flesh will eventually rot out and you will have an unnecessary ugly section in your plant.
(https://s1.postimg.cc/63fuo91iob/IMG_4021.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/63fuo91iob/)
Hi,
Has anyone ever seen a dragon fruit morphed as part of the plant?
I grow quite a bit of dragon fruit but this is the first time I have seen this.
Does anyone know what could cause this?
Its going to be interesting to see what the inside of the fruit looks like when I cut it tomorrow.
Jo
I haven't seen one in person but I saw a video where a grower had this happen to him. His YouTube channel is Spicyexoctics.
Frankie's red stems are usually thin compared to other varieties. I had two growing in pots but they rotted due to cold weather
Is anyone selling orejona cuttings in the inland empire I'm interested in buying some.
Here’s a picture of a giant Megalanthus I ate a while back. http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=8090.msg180054#msg180054 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=8090.msg180054#msg180054)
I have one small giant yellow Megalanthus but it will probably be years before it’s big enough to sell cuttings. If anyone has the giant Megalanthus cuttings, I definitely want to buy!
Simon
Compared to the smaller s.m, which ones sweeter? And can you post a pic of your plant?
Also anyone that has a Cutting for the giant megalanthus or even seeds, I'm interested too.
AndHere’s a picture of a giant Megalanthus I ate a while back. http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=8090.msg180054#msg180054 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=8090.msg180054#msg180054)
I have one small giant yellow Megalanthus but it will probably be years before it’s big enough to sell cuttings. If anyone has the giant Megalanthus cuttings, I definitely want to buy!
Simon
Compared to the smaller s.m, which ones sweeter? And can you post a pic of your plant?
Also anyone that has a Cutting for the giant megalanthus or even seeds, I'm interested too.
I’ll take a picture next time I have a chance. It’s in a pot with a fig that is completely overrun with weeds.
Simon
I've bought some cuttings off of spicy exotics in the past, but never had luck with them. I always receive them damaged. I prefer to buy them locally, but thanks for the help I really appreciate it.
thank you and good luck growing you dragon fruit hope to see some updates on their growthI've bought some cuttings off of spicy exotics in the past, but never had luck with them. I always receive them damaged. I prefer to buy them locally, but thanks for the help I really appreciate it.
Oohhh you too! It has happened to me too the 2nd time I ordered from them. One end of the box got torn up and 3/4 of the cutting fell out during transit. I got refunded so that's why I gave them another chance and this time I was lucky.
I wish you luck in finding one!
I found cuttings of hylocereus ocamponis,What about the fruit?is the same of the "red undatus"?how hardy it is?
Can one identify a variety by looking at the fruit? Mainly between hybrids. Reason being I’m about to harvest my first fruit from my supposedly Purple Haze plant and I’ve been looking at pictures of the fruit online and I see people posting different variations of the fruit while claiming it’s purple haze. Being sent the wrong cutting before I’m a bit nervous that I was sent the wrong plant again. Here are some pictures of the fruit so far. It’s not fully ripe yet but getting there.(https://s1.postimg.cc/3bo8kzrcbf/C74_ADDC8-105_A-4_E94-_BE9_F-20_C551053_BD8.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3bo8kzrcbf/)
(https://s1.postimg.cc/7zfv09gpnf/7237_E7_D4-6_FCA-462_F-9_A9_B-8150_A235389_C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/7zfv09gpnf/)
(https://s1.postimg.cc/2yns8pcnfv/6_A3_B0_D54-_B25_A-4255-86_B5-_E8216822_C902.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/2yns8pcnfv/)
(https://s1.postimg.cc/3jxfv07qvv/FF25_B8_BD-_F2_B8-4_E37-9512-58_EA0_B927_FA2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3jxfv07qvv/)
Thanks Rannman for the picture! Color wise it does look similar in that perspective. And yours look like it could’ve weighed in at 2lbs too!They do look very similar, and yes, it was the biggest dragonfruit I’ve seen. Really impressive, and very tasty as well!
Thanks Rannman for the picture! Color wise it does look similar in that perspective. And yours look like it could’ve weighed in at 2lbs too!They do look very similar, and yes, it was the biggest dragonfruit I’ve seen. Really impressive, and very tasty as well!
this is aka giant megalanthus from Ecuador. i hope you saved some seeds.
It has been supper wet in South Florida and a few weeks ago, after the storm, I had a rain event that submerged most of my yard for more than 24 hours. My dragon fruit which were already stressed by Irma did not fare very well.
The images below are from 3 different stands. Each is showing the same symptom. The stems are bleached and the very base in contact with the soil has gone brown (I guess is dying).
Should I trim off the dead part exposing the root, cut off and restart these plants or is there a combination of feed and care that can bring these back.
(https://image.ibb.co/mTU3iG/DF4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hMZEqw)
(https://image.ibb.co/jVRiiG/DF3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iyq9OG)
(https://image.ibb.co/ikUQxb/DF2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nsPEqw)
(https://image.ibb.co/jwhOiG/DF1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gU65xb)
Thanks
I need some advice on my first fruit. This is supposed to be Purple Haze. Is it ready to be picked or should I leave it on for a few more days?
Thanks guys!
(https://s1.postimg.cc/7kc1hjtmyz/39_E8_B675-_AEB2-418_C-_BDB9-_FA9_DF0_A7_ED7_D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/7kc1hjtmyz/)
(https://s1.postimg.cc/21tx1eieuj/FDDAB79_C-4_E33-4_AB6-_A87_A-267025_B85_A6_F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/21tx1eieuj/)
Here's the vine that's closest to the street. I'm calling this the "A" vine.
(http://www.kan.org/pictures/TeuchertA_w.jpg)
This was 9:00 PM in the evening; it's a 15 second exposure to get that much light. Full resolution, here (http://www.kan.org/pictures/TeuchertA.jpg).
There were at least 2 dozen blooms tonight, of which 5-6 were easily reachable on foot, and one more with a stepladder. I have about a teaspoon of pollen in my fridge, because some of my own vines will bloom within a week.
I didn't have any of my own pollen with me, so I couldn't pollinate this vine, but I will bring some next time I visit. I did hand-pollinate these flowers with their own pollen, though I suspect they're self-infertile (but I don't actually know for sure).
The B vine (also outside the gate) had only one bloom, but there are more buds ready to pop over the next several nights.
The C vine (inside the gate) also had lots of blooms tonight, but I couldn't get inside.
My first fruit!
This was my LaVerne Pink on Saturday:
(http://www.kan.org/pictures/LaVernePinkHarvestable.jpg)
and my Physical Graffiti on Saturday:
(http://www.kan.org/pictures/PhysicalGraffitiHarvestable.jpg)
I was going to ask all y'alls' advice on when to pick them, but this morning they'd colored up quite a bit, and seemed more than the "2/3 color" mark, so I picked them!
(http://www.kan.org/pictures/LVPandPG_Harvested.jpg)
I don't have a Brix-meter, nor much experience eating DF, so this evening's review will be more along the lines of "Yum!" or "Yuck!"
I've waited 3 years for the LaVerne Pink and 2 years for the PG. Wish me luck!
I need some advice on my first fruit. This is supposed to be Purple Haze. Is it ready to be picked or should I leave it on for a few more days?
Thanks guys!
(https://s1.postimg.cc/7kc1hjtmyz/39_E8_B675-_AEB2-418_C-_BDB9-_FA9_DF0_A7_ED7_D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/7kc1hjtmyz/)
(https://s1.postimg.cc/21tx1eieuj/FDDAB79_C-4_E33-4_AB6-_A87_A-267025_B85_A6_F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/21tx1eieuj/)
That's ready to pick, definitely. A good rule of thumb is that they're ready to pick when they flower has completely dried and fallen off. Also, you can see the purple flesh inside as an intonation through the skin. Pick it now.
I need some advice on my first fruit. This is supposed to be Purple Haze. Is it ready to be picked or should I leave it on for a few more days?
Thanks guys!
(https://s1.postimg.cc/7kc1hjtmyz/39_E8_B675-_AEB2-418_C-_BDB9-_FA9_DF0_A7_ED7_D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/7kc1hjtmyz/)
(https://s1.postimg.cc/21tx1eieuj/FDDAB79_C-4_E33-4_AB6-_A87_A-267025_B85_A6_F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/21tx1eieuj/)
That's ready to pick, definitely. A good rule of thumb is that they're ready to pick when they flower has completely dried and fallen off. Also, you can see the purple flesh inside as an intonation through the skin. Pick it now.
Thanks! I’m gonna chill it in the fridge before enjoying my first fruit. 😋
where did you get it?
What's etsy?
What's etsy?
It’s a site that sells all sorts of items. Mostly homemade items. There’s plants and seeds for sale on that site too. But you just need to read the stores reviews before making any purchase. It’s basically like eBay. You could check out their site right here
Www.etsy.com (http://Www.etsy.com)
(https://s1.postimg.cc/8omqqiphm3/42_C27300-3_B1_D-408_E-94_B4-236_CECEEB417.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8omqqiphm3/)
(https://s1.postimg.cc/77glormuvv/B37_F05_B6-2_D19-491_C-_A9_D2-_B704681_AB191.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/77glormuvv/)
Ugh... the disappointment and reveal of my first dragon fruit.
I was sent the wrong cutting again. Was supposed to be a purple haze. 2 years to find out it’s just a regular white flesh dragon fruit. The taste is ok. Little sweet with a slight tang. Was really hoping for a purple haze.
So disappointed.
I have several Delight cuttings you can have.
I have several Delight cuttings you can have.
Hi Ric, was this offer directed towards me?
Hey guys,
Iv'e been trying to grow df from cuttings, with undesirable results (slowww growth). I am unimpressed with grocery store fruits and would like to grow/try the less common cultivars. I can hardly get them to grow in cooler temperatures, and they seem to only like unfiltered sunlight, which I can only get in warm/hot months (since I live in Ohio). I can't tell if it's just inadequate lighting that is the issue, or maybe the soil or feeding regimen. Does anyone in cooler regions use supplemental lighting? If so, how is it working out for you?
Thanks in advance! :)
Hey Ric, how do you rate the fruit of the Delight? I had only one spot left to plant and had to choose between Delight, Purple Haze and Physical Graffiti. I planted the Delight but still have the other two. Any thoughts?
Can anyone confirm if this is a purple haze cutting?
Thanks!
(https://s18.postimg.cc/54f080ydh/62_A73161-4_A43-4_A58-8907-5_FBDC57_FD9_DB.png) (https://postimg.cc/image/54f080ydh/)
It does look like a purple variety they normally have a heart shaped stems, but it's hard to tell. I have a 2 month old Purple Haze that I got from Linda Nickerson I recommend getting cuttings from her
(https://s7.postimg.cc/fudben77b/20171113_111835.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/fudben77b/)
(https://s7.postimg.cc/8ee1sv6nb/20171113_111847.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8ee1sv6nb/)
Can anyone confirm if this is a purple haze cutting?
Thanks!
(https://s18.postimg.cc/54f080ydh/62_A73161-4_A43-4_A58-8907-5_FBDC57_FD9_DB.png) (https://postimg.cc/image/54f080ydh/)
Only DNA testing can confirm a cutting is a Purple Haze clone!
I don’t remember if this question has been asked before but is voodoo child the same as S8 sugar dragon. On spicyexotics site he claims that research shows that they are both the same.They both taste the same to me, I would take a houghton or physical graffiti over the sugar dragon, it's overrated in my view. Better to grow a Frankie's red or colombian yellow if you like them sweeter. I crossed a houghton with a yellow a few years back and this is the first year it has fruited. It is similar in looks to a Frankies Red but has more of a strawberry taste. Once the plant gets bigger I'll be able to distribute cuttings.
I think I read somewhere that they aren’t but can’t recall where I read it from.
I don’t remember if this question has been asked before but is voodoo child the same as S8 sugar dragon. On spicyexotics site he claims that research shows that they are both the same.They both taste the same to me, I would take a houghton or physical graffiti over the sugar dragon, it's overrated in my view. Better to grow a Frankie's red or colombian yellow if you like them sweeter. I crossed a houghton with a yellow a few years back and this is the first year it has fruited. It is similar in looks to a Frankies Red but has more of a strawberry taste. Once the plant gets bigger I'll be able to distribute cuttings.
I think I read somewhere that they aren’t but can’t recall where I read it from.
I never heard of Houghton where can I get cuttings from that variety?I don’t remember if this question has been asked before but is voodoo child the same as S8 sugar dragon. On spicyexotics site he claims that research shows that they are both the same.They both taste the same to me, I would take a houghton or physical graffiti over the sugar dragon, it's overrated in my view. Better to grow a Frankie's red or colombian yellow if you like them sweeter. I crossed a houghton with a yellow a few years back and this is the first year it has fruited. It is similar in looks to a Frankies Red but has more of a strawberry taste. Once the plant gets bigger I'll be able to distribute cuttings.
I think I read somewhere that they aren’t but can’t recall where I read it from.
Houghton along with Rixford are Hylocereus spp. that Paul Thomson used when developing varieties such as 8-S known as Voodoo Child and Sugar Dragon. PM me if you would like cuttings of Houghton or pretty much any other cuttings. I have probably 20 types.I never heard of Houghton where can I get cuttings from that variety?I don’t remember if this question has been asked before but is voodoo child the same as S8 sugar dragon. On spicyexotics site he claims that research shows that they are both the same.They both taste the same to me, I would take a houghton or physical graffiti over the sugar dragon, it's overrated in my view. Better to grow a Frankie's red or colombian yellow if you like them sweeter. I crossed a houghton with a yellow a few years back and this is the first year it has fruited. It is similar in looks to a Frankies Red but has more of a strawberry taste. Once the plant gets bigger I'll be able to distribute cuttings.
I think I read somewhere that they aren’t but can’t recall where I read it from.
The small red one is a cross I made with Houghton and Yellow Colombian, it is the one that has a strawberry melon taste.I never heard of Houghton where can I get cuttings from that variety?I don’t remember if this question has been asked before but is voodoo child the same as S8 sugar dragon. On spicyexotics site he claims that research shows that they are both the same.
I think I read somewhere that they aren’t but can’t recall where I read it from.
Nice! Sounds delicious. Do you have any pictures of the flowers?The small red one is a cross I made with Houghton and Yellow Colombian, it is the one that has a strawberry melon taste.I never heard of Houghton where can I get cuttings from that variety?I don’t remember if this question has been asked before but is voodoo child the same as S8 sugar dragon. On spicyexotics site he claims that research shows that they are both the same.
I think I read somewhere that they aren’t but can’t recall where I read it from.
(https://s7.postimg.cc/t8n6iyg4n/fruit_11_14_17.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/t8n6iyg4n/)
Sorry they already bloomedNice! Sounds delicious. Do you have any pictures of the flowers?I never heard of Houghton where can I get cuttings from that variety?I don’t remember if this question has been asked before but is voodoo child the same as S8 sugar dragon. On spicyexotics site he claims that research shows that they are both the same.
I think I read somewhere that they aren’t but can’t recall where I read it from.
The small red one is a cross I made with Houghton and Yellow Colombian, it is the one that has a strawberry melon taste.
(https://s7.postimg.cc/t8n6iyg4n/fruit_11_14_17.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/t8n6iyg4n/)
Concerning the S-8 (voodoo child) and sugar dragon, Linda Nickerson explains how she got the cutting from Paul Thomson and they thought they were the same at first, but she noticed a small thorn at the tips of the S-8 and the sugar dragon didn't have the thorns. She also says that the sugar dragon is sweeter. I guess the only way to really know is a DNA test.I don’t remember if this question has been asked before but is voodoo child the same as S8 sugar dragon. On spicyexotics site he claims that research shows that they are both the same.They both taste the same to me, I would take a houghton or physical graffiti over the sugar dragon, it's overrated in my view. Better to grow a Frankie's red or colombian yellow if you like them sweeter. I crossed a houghton with a yellow a few years back and this is the first year it has fruited. It is similar in looks to a Frankies Red but has more of a strawberry taste. Once the plant gets bigger I'll be able to distribute cuttings.
I think I read somewhere that they aren’t but can’t recall where I read it from.
Thanks for the info! I think I’m gonna pass since it’s simialr and I’m being given a S8 cutting.
Wow, how long did it take from seed to fruit?
Please put me on the list for a cutting!
I would love to try a DF with strawberry taste besides a DF that is just sweet.
The small red one is a cross I made with Houghton and Yellow Colombian, it is the one that has a strawberry melon taste.I never heard of Houghton where can I get cuttings from that variety?I don’t remember if this question has been asked before but is voodoo child the same as S8 sugar dragon. On spicyexotics site he claims that research shows that they are both the same.
I think I read somewhere that they aren’t but can’t recall where I read it from.
https://s7.postimg.cc/t8n6iyg4n/fruit_11_14_17.jpg[/img] (https://postimg.cc/image/.[img)
On a different note, I have a few similar varieties fruiting at the moment so I may be able to post some pics of ripe fruit for comparison. Pink Panther, Voodoo Child and Sugar Dragon (U.S varieties), as well as Aztec Gem (Aussie variety). All have similar plant growth and young, unripe fruit are also very similar. Pink Panther and Aztec Gem have small spines on the fruit.
Currently have Haileys Comet, White Vietnamese, 3 Diferent type of Yellow Dragon fruit, Kathie Van Arum, waiting to order Frankies Red and maybe Asunta
Currently have Haileys Comet, White Vietnamese, 3 Diferent type of Yellow Dragon fruit, Kathie Van Arum, waiting to order Frankies Red and maybe Asunta
Selenicereus Megalanthus Yellow Dragon Fruit Cactus PlantCurrently have Haileys Comet, White Vietnamese, 3 Diferent type of Yellow Dragon fruit, Kathie Van Arum, waiting to order Frankies Red and maybe Asunta
When you say 3 different types or yellow dragon fruit, do you mean ...
One type from Ecuador like the giant yellow
One from Colombia / Peruvian yellow
And the regular yellow?
Did you try the Tricia by chance?Currently have Haileys Comet, White Vietnamese, 3 Diferent type of Yellow Dragon fruit, Kathie Van Arum, waiting to order Frankies Red and maybe Asunta
FYI Epicacti Nursery posted on Facebook;
"New Dragon Fruit varieties available in Spring April/ May and to be added to Mattslandscape.com catalog or can be ordered thru or picked up at walk in nursery Epicacti.com in spring 2018."
1) Tricia
2) Paisley
3) Edgar
4) Townsend Pink
5) Asunta #2
6) Asunta #3
7) AX
8) David Bowie -previously out of stock but been duplicating so should have plenty next year spring 2018
9) Armando
10) El Grullo -previously out of stock but been duplicating so should have plenty next year spring 2018
11) Houghton
12) Lisa -previously out of stock but been duplicating so should have plenty next year spring 2018
13) Hawaiian Gold
***Even More varieties to be introduced mid summer 2018***
Did you try the Tricia by chance?Currently have Haileys Comet, White Vietnamese, 3 Diferent type of Yellow Dragon fruit, Kathie Van Arum, waiting to order Frankies Red and maybe Asunta
FYI Epicacti Nursery posted on Facebook;
"New Dragon Fruit varieties available in Spring April/ May and to be added to Mattslandscape.com catalog or can be ordered thru or picked up at walk in nursery Epicacti.com in spring 2018."
1) Tricia
2) Paisley
3) Edgar
4) Townsend Pink
5) Asunta #2
6) Asunta #3
7) AX
8) David Bowie -previously out of stock but been duplicating so should have plenty next year spring 2018
9) Armando
10) El Grullo -previously out of stock but been duplicating so should have plenty next year spring 2018
11) Houghton
12) Lisa -previously out of stock but been duplicating so should have plenty next year spring 2018
13) Hawaiian Gold
***Even More varieties to be introduced mid summer 2018***
Currently have Haileys Comet, White Vietnamese, 3 Diferent type of Yellow Dragon fruit, Kathie Van Arum, waiting to order Frankies Red and maybe Asunta
FYI Epicacti Nursery posted on Facebook;
"New Dragon Fruit varieties available in Spring April/ May and to be added to Mattslandscape.com catalog or can be ordered thru or picked up at walk in nursery Epicacti.com in spring 2018."
1) Tricia
2) Paisley
3) Edgar
4) Townsend Pink
5) Asunta #2
6) Asunta #3
7) AX
8) David Bowie -previously out of stock but been duplicating so should have plenty next year spring 2018
9) Armando
10) El Grullo -previously out of stock but been duplicating so should have plenty next year spring 2018
11) Houghton
12) Lisa -previously out of stock but been duplicating so should have plenty next year spring 2018
13) Hawaiian Gold
***Even More varieties to be introduced mid summer 2018***
Richard or anyone,
do you have any infor on these varieties? color, taste, texture, size of fruit? thanks
Paisley
Townsend Pink
AX
Hawaiian Gold
Selenicereus Megalanthus Yellow Dragon Fruit Cactus PlantCurrently have Haileys Comet, White Vietnamese, 3 Diferent type of Yellow Dragon fruit, Kathie Van Arum, waiting to order Frankies Red and maybe Asunta
When you say 3 different types or yellow dragon fruit, do you mean ...
One type from Ecuador like the giant yellow
One from Colombia / Peruvian yellow
And the regular yellow?
https://kensnursery.com/product/dragon-fruit-selenicereus-megalanthus-yellow/
Giant Hawaiian Gold Dragon Fruit Cactus Plant
https://kensnursery.com/product/dragon-fruit-giant-yellow-dragon/
3452 Hylocereus sp. - Yellow Pitaya, Dragon Fruit
https://toptropicals.com/cgi-bin/garden_catalog/cat.cgi?uid=hylocereus
one XL peru yellow gold he called on ebay
Just got them this year. so heard the yellows take about 2 years before they fruit due to size of 8"-1'. hopefully sooner. The only one to fruit next year will be veit white, and haileys comet. just got startedgrowing DF begining of this year from neighbor cutting and tasting, going off the threads and reviews from everyoneSelenicereus Megalanthus Yellow Dragon Fruit Cactus PlantCurrently have Haileys Comet, White Vietnamese, 3 Diferent type of Yellow Dragon fruit, Kathie Van Arum, waiting to order Frankies Red and maybe Asunta
When you say 3 different types or yellow dragon fruit, do you mean ...
One type from Ecuador like the giant yellow
One from Colombia / Peruvian yellow
And the regular yellow?
https://kensnursery.com/product/dragon-fruit-selenicereus-megalanthus-yellow/
Giant Hawaiian Gold Dragon Fruit Cactus Plant
https://kensnursery.com/product/dragon-fruit-giant-yellow-dragon/
3452 Hylocereus sp. - Yellow Pitaya, Dragon Fruit
https://toptropicals.com/cgi-bin/garden_catalog/cat.cgi?uid=hylocereus
one XL peru yellow gold he called on ebay
Wow, very interesting. I wonder if the last two have similar taste. Probably not as sweet as the S.M.
Most Dragonfruit cuttings will fruit within 2 years with good care. Some won’t but a lot will.Thanks. Did recently find Matt's landscape. Just the top tropical is local to me. Now since learning about Matt's landscape
I find it difficult to trust a site that doesn’t even take the time to put up their own pics of the varieties that they say they grow. Most pics from the top tropical site are from other websites as far as I can see, and you don’t have to look too closely to see that a couple of completely different varieties have identical fruit! The Sweet Red and the American Beauty are identical on the site! American Beauty looks nothing like this! I would assume Sweet Red doesn’t either.
If you want good cuttings that will give the fruit that they are supposed to give, only buy from reputable sellers. Matt’s Landscape is brilliant.
I would like to buy new dragon fruit varieties cuttings from Mattslandscape.com, but it looks like they don't ship outside US. I tried to email them but did not get any reply so far. It's a shame as cuttings are easy to ship worldwide. Anyway, if someone from Mattslandscape read my message, please do not hesitate to contact me, thanks in advance. email address : lejardinauxmillefruits@gmail.comhttps://www.facebook.com/matts.landscape (https://www.facebook.com/matts.landscape)
p;s : my delivery address is in France.
I would like to buy new dragon fruit varieties cuttings from Mattslandscape.com, but it looks like they don't ship outside US. I tried to email them but did not get any reply so far. It's a shame as cuttings are easy to ship worldwide. Anyway, if someone from Mattslandscape read my message, please do not hesitate to contact me, thanks in advance. email address : lejardinauxmillefruits@gmail.com
p;s : my delivery address is in France.
The quickest way I’ve found to root cuttings is take a fresh cutting and dip in rooting hormone, then place in shade for a week or two to let it callous over. Then plant 4 inches deep in we’ll draining mediums, then tie a stake to the cutting, after that I place a clear plastic bag over it and place in warm shade or greenhouse. They root real quick that way.
The quickest way I’ve found to root cuttings is take a fresh cutting and dip in rooting hormone, then place in shade for a week or two to let it callous over. Then plant 4 inches deep in we’ll draining mediums, then tie a stake to the cutting, after that I place a clear plastic bag over it and place in warm shade or greenhouse. They root real quick that way.I had 100% success establishing 40 plants directly in the soil. I did not cut the branches into sections as some do. I made my cuttings cut at the natural growing 'breaks' between sections which are woody rather than fleshy. Still, I did leave them for weeks to harden and some began to root into air. These I planted directly out into the field into amended soil. One month after planting I sprayed with fish emulsion. Two weeks later they began sprouting and I thinned those to one leader only. They are beginning to climb the poles.
The quickest way I’ve found to root cuttings is take a fresh cutting and dip in rooting hormone, then place in shade for a week or two to let it callous over. Then plant 4 inches deep in we’ll draining mediums, then tie a stake to the cutting, after that I place a clear plastic bag over it and place in warm shade or greenhouse. They root real quick that way.I had 100% success establishing 40 plants directly in the soil. I did not cut the branches into sections as some do. I made my cuttings cut at the natural growing 'breaks' between sections which are woody rather than fleshy. Still, I did leave them for weeks to harden and some began to root into air. These I planted directly out into the field into amended soil. One month after planting I sprayed with fish emulsion. Two weeks later they began sprouting and I thinned those to one leader only. They are beginning to climb the poles.
So, in a good climate it is possible to plant directly in soil. Many of the successful commercial growers in Thailand, Mexico, Colombia and Ecuador can be seen in videos planting the way I did. Hopefully I am emulating their success.
Being in a dry climate in San Diego, I use the plastic bag to increase the humidity since these plants come from real humid areas. Staking it keeps the roots from being disturbed while rooting. If you have a large, thick cutting you can get fruit in 2 years after it has rooted.The quickest way I’ve found to root cuttings is take a fresh cutting and dip in rooting hormone, then place in shade for a week or two to let it callous over. Then plant 4 inches deep in we’ll draining mediums, then tie a stake to the cutting, after that I place a clear plastic bag over it and place in warm shade or greenhouse. They root real quick that way.I had 100% success establishing 40 plants directly in the soil. I did not cut the branches into sections as some do. I made my cuttings cut at the natural growing 'breaks' between sections which are woody rather than fleshy. Still, I did leave them for weeks to harden and some began to root into air. These I planted directly out into the field into amended soil. One month after planting I sprayed with fish emulsion. Two weeks later they began sprouting and I thinned those to one leader only. They are beginning to climb the poles.
So, in a good climate it is possible to plant directly in soil. Many of the successful commercial growers in Thailand, Mexico, Colombia and Ecuador can be seen in videos planting the way I did. Hopefully I am emulating their success.
Edgar just posted a video on his YouTube channel where he tries the yellow dragon that’s being imported into California. Near the end of the video he explains that you can grow the plant in Cali but the fruit won’t be big compared to the ones being grown in their natural climate like Peru, Columbia and Ecuador. He stated that it’s because it blooms in nov and dec and that when the fruit starts to form it’s toogot a link to that?
cold here in Cali. That’s one reason why the fruit doesn’t get large.
Correction, I just looked at the date , he posted it on nov 21 of this year
Here’s the link to the video
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wPiwQfK5cz0
Correction, I just looked at the date , he posted it on nov 21 of this year
Here’s the link to the video
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wPiwQfK5cz0
Wow, seven months from flowering to ripe fruit!
I know Edgar is the expert but I believe he is wrong. I state this because a forum member here has grown the giant variety here in California and fruited it to large size. He posted pictures on this forum but I forget under what thread title.
We should know in a few years because many people ordered seeds from Dragon.
Simon
Here you go, I’m not sure if this is the same seller from years past but he has seeds available.
http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=26031.0 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=26031.0)
Simon
I’m not sure if this is legit, but it’s an interesting concept. Seedlings grafted onto mature stems.
I’m not sure if this is legit, but it’s an interesting concept. Seedlings grafted onto mature stems.
(https://s2.postimg.cc/86bbhez45/A783_B738-49_AE-4_FD4-_AC02-_EA74_FFED28_CE.png) (https://postimg.cc/image/86bbhez45/)
Are the skins/rinds from regular red Dragonfruit edible? What do they taste like, if they are edible?Never tried to eat the skins, but I have dehydrated them and then seep them in hot water for a tea type of drink.
They have such a great color that I'm wondering if I could extract it into a liquer or something.
I've grafted tens of thousands of cactus on hylocereus stocksPlease share your links. Thanks
Seedlings included. Hylocereus needs to be prepared and by the pics above it looks they they did it alright. Trick is using new growth as cuttings, removing areoles and apical meristem and allowing to swell before grafting. Trouble with hylocereus grafting is the vascular tissues get woody fast, but if all the growth points are removed it won't get woody.
Although a great stock, the prep work requires cuttings a few months before being ready. Generally the cactus family readily graft to each other and I use different species for seedlings grafts. But I would put hylocereus, sepenicereus and acanthocereus right up there with fast root stock options!
I wrote some articles on my site about cactus grafting. If it's allowed I can post links, note they are quite old but the majority of the content still holds true.
note these are written a while ago and some of my opinions have changed with growing things since then, but the basics hold true for grafting.
some of the articles are here: http://kadasgardens.com/Articles.html (http://kadasgardens.com/Articles.html)
because hylocereus have thin ribs, they dehydrate super fast. i would graft tips, or cut the tips and wait for new offsets to emerge and graft teh new offsets for a thicker, rounder scion that is a hundred times easier to work with.
note this is mainly focused on using hylocereus as the root stock for slower and rarer cactus species, but it would be the logical rootstock for a hylocereus plantation as well so may be useful.
http://kadasgardens.com/grafting5.html (http://kadasgardens.com/grafting5.html)
and if you are a breeder and trying to get new seeds up to snuff, this is the the best option for such endeavors.
http://kadasgardens.com/grafting1.html (http://kadasgardens.com/grafting1.html)
Hi guys,I bought epsom salt for my dragons,but don't know if best to spray or put on the soil ,any advice? need also to know the quantities to use.
Same for vermicast,bought about 50kg ::)
I have pots with 25 inch diameter, how many cuttings can I grow in each pot? Thanks!
Someone told me to keep them dry until flowering in late may/june.
Someone told me to keep them dry until flowering in late may/june.
Not good advice in my opinion.
I have pots with 25 inch diameter, how many cuttings can I grow in each pot? Thanks!
2 - 3
Just Remember your in Italy he is in California, Im in Florida, different places have different requirements for same plant
Someone told me to keep them dry until flowering in late may/june.
Not good advice in my opinion.
I'm a newbie, what is a good advice according your experience?
Someone told me to keep them dry until flowering in late may/june.
Not good advice in my opinion.
I'm a newbie, what is a good advice according your experience?
Hey guys, I'm looking for the biggest white flesh variety there is out there which is self pollinating. Taste, flavour or other factors doesn't matter. I'm in just for the size. Need the variety name which sets the biggest fruit size wise.
Thanks!
Hey guys, I'm looking for the biggest white flesh variety there is out there which is self pollinating. Taste, flavour or other factors doesn't matter. I'm in just for the size. Need the variety name which sets the biggest fruit size wise.
Thanks!
Vietnamese Giant?
Hey guys, I'm looking for the biggest white flesh variety there is out there which is self pollinating. Taste, flavour or other factors doesn't matter. I'm in just for the size. Need the variety name which sets the biggest fruit size wise.
Thanks!
Vietnamese Giant?
I Agree that was first Dragonfruit i had from a neighbor and it gives alot of fruit and big with no maintenance here in Florida
Thank you Richard and FamilyJ. Appreciate your help guys. If there's any other white flesh similar to the size of Vietnamese giant please pour in your suggestions.
24 hours before this photo was taken the dragon fruit stem was one inch below the disc, so it is 'flying' upwards at more than 1" per day! That was yesterday morning I expect it to be above the 2" thick disk by this morning.
(https://s17.postimg.cc/9xpg52ubf/dragonfruit_entering_disk.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/9xpg52ubf/)
I like the concrete supports, and thought about making my own but decided instead to try making them out of ABS pipe. Wood only lasts 4-5 years in my yard before rotting out or getting eaten by termites so that was out. I drew up a few designs, and settled on this one - 4" ABS main support with 1 1/2" top supports. In order for it to handle the weight (eventually) I cross drilled the top with a 1 1/2" conduit hole cutter and trimmed down a PVC cross to fit. Everything glued together perfectly and appears quite strong. I wrapped the main post in four wraps of burlap using self tapping screws. I'll be wrapping the top supports also to protect it from UV damage.Wasnt as creative as you but i tried before knowing anything about how setup was, survived hurricane Irma though
I got these cuttings from Simon a year and a half ago, and they have barely grown since - they really did not like the shaded sandy location they were in and needed a move. Time will tell and we shall see...
(http://a4.pbase.com/g10/85/360685/2/167011251.01t6XQqd.jpg)
(http://a4.pbase.com/g10/85/360685/2/167011252.lUNEHqda.jpg)
Just out of curiosity, is the correct name spelling Halley’s Comet or Haille’s Comet?
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/890/26201223477_9c272709a8_b.jpg)
Yesterday I got some Sugar Pitaya cuttings in. Will pot up 2, share the others. Any one have any info on this one? Gifter loves it but searching for info has been limited.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/70isan2u3/Sugar_Pitaya.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/70isan2u3/)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/890/26201223477_9c272709a8_b.jpg)
Simply amazing! You've got it down pat.
Yesterday I got some Sugar Pitaya cuttings in. Will pot up 2, share the others. Any one have any info on this one? Gifter loves it but searching for info has been limited.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/70isan2u3/Sugar_Pitaya.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/70isan2u3/)
I'm stocked up and ready to go - grafting Atis atemoya, some cherimoyas, etc. to seedlings. My fave is 4 c.f. coarse vermiculite. Also, the fine quality of the pine bark mulch from Lowe's was shocking. Really nice stuff from fines to light airy chunks.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/mm03utca3/Vermiculite.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/mm03utca3/)
Is it Sugar Dragon? "Sugar Dragon" is the name Linda Nickerson gave to Paul Thomson's 'S-8' (or '8-S') .
http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=12824.0 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=12824.0)
My FloridaSunset and Condor are blooming already
(https://s17.postimg.cc/ogf1l2u9n/20180325_170130.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ogf1l2u9n/)
(https://s17.postimg.cc/a9zapw94r/20180325_170032.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/a9zapw94r/)
OK, now realize pitaya has very shallow roots that spread wide and far. Here's my plan. Thoughts are welcome. Gonna take a long strip of 16" RootBuilder, cut it in half making it 8" tall. Wrap and tie it into a large rectangle about 8' long X 18" wide squaring off the corners and place it against a greenhouse wall. Backfill with a very sandy/vermiculite soil with some humus and LAY the cuttings down so that 1 side is just below the surface for rooting. Done this with cacti, why not pitaya? Should give me a lot of output along the cutting. I can plant 3 different available varieties in this one long pot.
South Florida people:Sorry already have a S8 in S FL
I emailed Linda Nickerson hoping to purchase a cutting or two of her s-8. She informed me that she ships only in large flat rate boxes ($25) plus $8 for a large cutting. Seems like it makes sense to order 10-20 cuttings if I go in with a few forum members.
If you are interested, check the buy and sell forum or PM me directly.
Keith
Mark, Dragon Fruit are more like epiphyllums, not like desert cacti. I would use the same rooting techniques epiphyllum and Dragon Fruit grower use.
OK, now realize pitaya has very shallow roots that spread wide and far. Here's my plan. Thoughts are welcome. Gonna take a long strip of 16" RootBuilder, cut it in half making it 8" tall. Wrap and tie it into a large rectangle about 8' long X 18" wide squaring off the corners and place it against a greenhouse wall. Backfill with a very sandy/vermiculite soil with some humus and LAY the cuttings down so that 1 side is just below the surface for rooting. Done this with cacti, why not pitaya? Should give me a lot of output along the cutting. I can plant 3 different available varieties in this one long pot.It will be interesting to compare pot and bed culture, you could be breaking new ground.
Hello, super new and super dumb here but if I could bother anybody to answer a few very basic questions about growing dragon fruit I would be so very grateful.. I really want to start growing Dragon Fruit (happy to keep it indoors when necessary due to my zone) but particularly a yellow. I found a place that has a yellow variety cutting in stock and in their description they say it is best to grow with 2-3 other varieties for cross pollination. <snip>
Hello, super new and super dumb here but if I could bother anybody to answer a few very basic questions about growing dragon fruit I would be so very grateful.. I really want to start growing Dragon Fruit (happy to keep it indoors when necessary due to my zone) but particularly a yellow. I found a place that has a yellow variety cutting in stock and in their description they say it is best to grow with 2-3 other varieties for cross pollination. I've looked up how to do the pollinating myself but, probably because this is such a stupid question, I haven't actually heard somebody directly state if a yellow dragon fruit can cross pollinate with a red variety for instance. My impression is you can but if you grow another fruit from the seeds produced it'll be a new variety and that's one reason (in addition to ease/speed) people use cuttings, to maintain favorable variety. I just don't want to buy the only yellow cutting I can find available online at the moment and pair it with something I'm too ignorant to realize isn't compatible. Also how would I cross pollinate with more than one variety if I were to buckle down and dedicate enough house space to three plants..? Do I just gather pollen from all three and swap or is it just best to shuffle it up after a harvest or two so it's not always the same thing..? Another thing that seems important, is there any way to influence two or more plants to flower at the same time? Do they have the internal clock or do I just hope for the best? I know the flowers don't last long and I've heard you can freeze the pollen for up to 30 days if you really need to but even then at the very least I can't pollinate the first flower I see. Not a big deal I'm just wondering if there's something I'm missing. Or can I buy a red variety that is self pollinating but also use that to pollinate a yellow variety that isn't..?Ok, first off, your best bet is to start back a few pages and read up on past discussion. a lot of questions about pollinization, crossbreeding and such can be found there. Second, do NOT grow dragon fruit thinking your main crop is going to be the yellow fruit. The Megalanthus, the yellow that's actually good, is a giant pain in the rear to grow and to get to produce, and even harder to wait for, as it has a ripening time up to 3 TIMES that of common dragon fruit. What you should strive for is to produce a collection of fruit, and if you want to include the yellow into that, that's fine. Try and pick yourself up a good red/magenta variety, like American Beauty, or others, for fruit production, one of the sweeter white ones for presentation, and as I recommend to everyone, try and get at least one S-8 "sugar dragon" for both flavor and pollen production. You can add yellows, or anything else you fancy, to this list. Yellow Megalanthus is not what I would call a 'beginners' variety. I grew it for a while and Ive removed it from my collection. I have limited space and it wasn't worth the resources required to maintain it.
I would love to ask ten more questions and really go into this as prepared as possible but I'm also happy to fail until I get it right and really I just want to understand the cross pollination thing so I'll stop there. Thanks so much to anybody who let me take their time and good day to all
Well said, Rob.
I’ve often wondered why people who are ‘really keen’ to get into growing dragonfruit, don’t take the time to browse through the 100+ pages of info on this particular thread!
Ok, first off, your best bet is to start back a few pages and read up on past discussion. a lot of questions about pollinization, crossbreeding and such can be found there. Second, do NOT grow dragon fruit thinking your main crop is going to be the yellow fruit. The Megalanthus, the yellow that's actually good, is a giant pain in the rear to grow and to get to produce, and even harder to wait for, as it has a ripening time up to 3 TIMES that of common dragon fruit. What you should strive for is to produce a collection of fruit, and if you want to include the yellow into that, that's fine. Try and pick yourself up a good red/magenta variety, like American Beauty, or others, for fruit production, one of the sweeter white ones for presentation, and as I recommend to everyone, try and get at least one S-8 "sugar dragon" for both flavor and pollen production. You can add yellows, or anything else you fancy, to this list. Yellow Megalanthus is not what I would call a 'beginners' variety. I grew it for a while and Ive removed it from my collection. I have limited space and it wasn't worth the resources required to maintain it.
Other than that, welcome to the community. I'm sure we can help you get into the groove of things here.
Rob, can you share a little more on challenges of growing the giant yellow? I am grafting seedings onto other DF vines and would love to hear more about it.
Rannman, is there a more common name of G2? Not sure if it’s available in the states.
Thanks.Quote
G-2 is the only name I know it by, sorry. Don’t even remember where I purchased the cutting unfortunately.
It is VERY high sugar content, but the ones I grew were almost ALL sugar, and no flavor. I started referring to them as the "Rock Candy" variety, because it was just like eating sweetened raw gelatin. They weren't 'bad', but neither is pouring sugar into a glass of water and drinking it; just a hit of sugar. Now having said that, this is a hobby for most people, and everyone has differing tastes, and I would never tell anyone they are wrong for liking what they like. I just decided that the yellow wasn't for me.That's such a shame to hear you didn't like the megalanthus you had! There is an international market super close to my house and given that I just eat plants their produce section is my candy store. Anyway for the past little while they have been host to a very delicious yellow (def the one with spines, megalanthus) which was not much smaller than the average DF's around here (which to be clear aren't the worlds largest) and while def sweeter than all the whites and reds I've had I def wouldn't have described it in that way and I don't think I'm too much of a sweet tooth guy... Maybe I should be going there now to try and inquire after their supplier before they throw away receipts.... xD
That's such a shame to hear you didn't like the megalanthus you had! There is an international market super close to my house and given that I just eat plants their produce section is my candy store. Anyway for the past little while they have been host to a very delicious yellow (def the one with spines, megalanthus) which was not much smaller than the average DF's around here (which to be clear aren't the worlds largest) and while def sweeter than all the whites and reds I've had I def wouldn't have described it in that way and I don't think I'm too much of a sweet tooth guy... Maybe I should be going there now to try and inquire after their supplier before they throw away receipts.... xD
If you have access to the fruit, you can always grow your own from seed. When you eat your next fruit, save a bunch of the seeds, clean them off, scatter a bunch in a pot, using well draining soil, then cover lightly. Water and wait. If its fresh seed, it should have a high germination rate. After a bit, pick the largest 3-4, pot them up, and then wait (a couple of years - the only downside.) I've done it on a lark, using seed from an uninspiring white flesh DF. I've pretty much neglected the two survivors, they are in small pots on the side of the house. One's about 4' high. If I was serious about fruit from them I'd put them on my trellis and take care of them. But its an option.
My DF flowers have up to 10 bees inside in the morning so I don't ever hand pollinate them.
Will soon be planting cuttings in a RootBuilder pot. It's finished out at 8" high, 15" wide, 5' long under clear Lexan polycarb. Bottomless of course so rooting can continue in native soil it sits on.They are traditionally not grown this way by farmers or hobbyists, mostly because, I assume, no one does it that way. The roots do not come out of the side of the plant, they start from the wooden core of the branch. Once stimulated to produce roots, the cutting will, typically, start making new roots at the point of least resistance, which would be where it was separated from its parent plant. I don't think there is any real advantage to trying to root the entire cutting, as the plant, provided its healthy and in a favorable environment, will produce as large a root system as it requires or can accommodate.
I plan to lay the cuttings on their side, punch down one side of the 3 sided cuttings into the soil so it will root along the cutting and put off multiple shoots from the air/light exposed two sides. Any one done this?
They are traditionally not grown this way by farmers or hobbyists, mostly because, I assume, no one does it that way.
My DF flowers have up to 10 bees inside in the morning so I don't ever hand pollinate them.
My DF flowers have up to 10 bees inside in the morning so I don't ever hand pollinate them.
I thought pitaya was pollinated with some kind of night moth. Forgot the name - it's big though. If bees pollinate DF then I've got it made, IF, they do so early morning before the flowers close up???????
My DF flowers have up to 10 bees inside in the morning so I don't ever hand pollinate them.
I thought pitaya was pollinated with some kind of night moth. Forgot the name - it's big though. If bees pollinate DF then I've got it made, IF, they do so early morning before the flowers close up???????
I thought pitaya was pollinated with some kind of night moth. Forgot the name - it's big though.
If bees pollinate DF then I've got it made, IF, they do so early morning before the flowers close up???????
I expect the Sphynx moths are a good pollinator. It hovers like a hummingbird and has glowing eyes when lit at night.
(https://s7.postimg.cc/bym4th0iv/0_BFB6576-71_F8-4176-8_F01-_DAA66_C15_D66_A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/bym4th0iv/)
(https://s7.postimg.cc/3t42vbrpj/E5_B3_FF74-4058-4_CA0-9_FE2-502_D2_A8_D29_A3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3t42vbrpj/)
Finally got a fruit to set on my Megalanthus x unknown variety, (Yellow x 68, Matt’s Landscape)! Only a very small fruit, possibly due to lack of cross pollination 🤔🤔🤔🤔, not sure if it is self fertile or not.
Was happy to see it had hot pink flesh(not obvious in photo), but flavour was ordinary.
Hopefully next season will be better. Knowing it’s a megalanthus with pink flesh will probably encourage me to spoil the plant a bit!
I did try it. Was slightly underwhelming but given the plant is quite small and it has been struggling due to the very dry weather, it was ok. Hopefully next season will be more productive. The fruit was only the size of a chickens egg but I was just pleased that it was a pink fleshed Megalanthus variety!
(https://s7.postimg.cc/a46znd0yv/2_C3_C53_D8-_AFA3-4_A9_D-8362-_DB916_DFB2_BFE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/a46znd0yv/)
Hi
I am new to the forums and have been reading this thread, wow! Some of the plants on here looks amazing. I live in southern Spain and hope to get some success with these in smaller pots. I grabbed some seeds this December from a red with white flesh (name?) dragon fruit, they germinated and was up out of the ground around 20th of December.
I have been growing them under artificial light for about 4 months now and they are about 4 - 6 inches in size. I recently transplanted them in a 3 gal pots (4ish, in 4 pots) around a wooden pole; secured from beneath the pot. 3 of those are now sitting outside receiving about 7 hours of sunlight, it will be around 10hs by June. It is really cool to see them develop so rapidly.
Has anyone else had experiences growing dragon fruit from seed and how long it took for them to flower? :)
Picture of the progress (1 pot with the best looking ones are still kept inside):
(https://s7.postimg.cc/sa5mmp3qj/Dragons.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Hi
I am new to the forums and have been reading this thread, wow! Some of the plants on here looks amazing. I live in southern Spain and hope to get some success with these in smaller pots. I grabbed some seeds this December from a red with white flesh (name?) dragon fruit, they germinated and was up out of the ground around 20th of December.
I have been growing them under artificial light for about 4 months now and they are about 4 - 6 inches in size. I recently transplanted them in a 3 gal pots (4ish, in 4 pots) around a wooden pole; secured from beneath the pot. 3 of those are now sitting outside receiving about 7 hours of sunlight, it will be around 10hs by June. It is really cool to see them develop so rapidly.
Has anyone else had experiences growing dragon fruit from seed and how long it took for them to flower? :)
Picture of the progress (1 pot with the best looking ones are still kept inside):
(https://s7.postimg.cc/sa5mmp3qj/Dragons.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Seed can be 4+years to give fruit
Thanks for the info! I'm hoping it will be faster as I will be growing them inside during the winter under powerful LED lights in a controlled environment. We will see, with your comment in-mind I then take it I should consider myself lucky if I manage to get anything sooner than that? :)
Do you know if they would flower well in smaller pots, like the 3gal I got them in now?
Thanks for you comment!
Thanks for the info! I'm hoping it will be faster as I will be growing them inside during the winter under powerful LED lights in a controlled environment. We will see, with your comment in-mind I then take it I should consider myself lucky if I manage to get anything sooner than that? :)
Do you know if they would flower well in smaller pots, like the 3gal I got them in now?
Thanks for you comment!
In that case... I would estimate it will take 5+ years to get fruit.
They can be somewhat fragile when they get bigger, it's easy to break them up on accident. I would repot before they get more than 2' (~.6m) long. I had one about 3-4 feet high and snapped it off at the middle, but at least I then had two dragon fruits...
Ok! Worst case I could always replant them when they get bigger. :)
Thanks for your input.
Regards,
They can be somewhat fragile when they get bigger, it's easy to break them up on accident. I would repot before they get more than 2' (~.6m) long. I had one about 3-4 feet high and snapped it off at the middle, but at least I then had two dragon fruits...
Ok! Worst case I could always replant them when they get bigger. :)
Thanks for your input.
Regards,
Also, your central pole looks a little weak, the plants can get heavy when they get big enough to fruit prolifically. When you up-pot them, I'd get a sturdier pole and something for them to hang over. This megathread has a lot of good examples in it.
Hi Sandy, they still grow ok in the shade? When are they old enough to go full sun?
Way to wake up. Lots of flowers.
I have a bit of clutter and I find 'strays' popping up all the time.
Most of the ground clutter that I don't end up cleaning up and throwing away will eventually try and root. Even the tiny, underdeveloped tips or shaded branches that fall behind my pots against my house I find trying to put out new shoots. In a hospitable environment these plants are very good at reproducing themselves through discarded branch materials, and I think if the end times ever came, they would take over my neighborhood in little time.
A few days ago I hand pollinated two flowers of Physical Graffiti with its own pollen. Was done at 11pm. Made sure I put a sufficient amount in the stigma. Flowers dropped. I had no other pollen available. I have heard both, that physical graffiti es self fertile and others say it not. Any one with experience on this ?
Particularly looking with successfull pollination with other cultivars.
From your information I have to assume that Delight, American Beauty and Natural Mystic are not related to Physical Graffiti and may pollinate it. I only have one Sugar Dragon of Flowering age, so I need to get a good system to store and preserve pollen. I did have pollen from the Amarican Beauty that I mixed with the Sugar dragon and pollinated two physical Grafiiti flowers and a Purple Haze flower.
snip
I also have a DF that flowers a lot: Pepino Dulce has not set one single fruit, not much is available but If I can find out what pollen to use can be a good source of fruit.
Dang, Got that knowledge is king. How long you grown dragonfruit Ricshaw? thanksFrom your information I have to assume that Delight, American Beauty and Natural Mystic are not related to Physical Graffiti and may pollinate it. I only have one Sugar Dragon of Flowering age, so I need to get a good system to store and preserve pollen. I did have pollen from the Amarican Beauty that I mixed with the Sugar dragon and pollinated two physical Grafiiti flowers and a Purple Haze flower.
snip
I also have a DF that flowers a lot: Pepino Dulce has not set one single fruit, not much is available but If I can find out what pollen to use can be a good source of fruit.
Delight and Physical Graffiti are seedlings that came from the same piece of fruit! Closely related.
Pepino Dulce and Physical Graffiti should be a good match for cross pollination.
I understand Carlos’ and others frustration and disappointment.
My first introduction and taste of Dragon Fruit was at a Farmer’s Market while on vacation with family on the island of Hawaii. At that moment I decided I wanted to try and grow Dragon Fruit at home in Southern California.
I acquired my first named Dragon Fruit cuttings at the UC Pitahaya Festival in Irvine, CA.
At the festival I got to taste many different varieties.
On that day, my favorites were Delight and Halley’s Comet.
Unlike most people who collect several varieties, I decided I was only going to grow the two varieties I like best.
When it came time to selecting the 5 free cuttings, unlike most people who selected 5 different cuttings, I chose to get only 5 Halley’s Comet.
The next year I went back and got 5 Delight cuttings.
Over the next few years I suffered frustration and disappointment from flower drop and no fruit. I also got a better understanding of “self fertile”, self-pollinating, hand pollinating, etc. I learned that growers who had several unrelated varieties producing flowers at or near the same time were not experiencing the frustration and disappointment I was having.
Once I got to the point of having enough unrelated flowering varieties, my luck on harvesting Dragon Fruit changed.
Do you still need to do hand pollination or have you found ones, or combos, that are able to fruit without your help?
Had my first flower of the season pop a few days ago. Looks like a few others are starting to bud. I did pollinate it but it was also covered in ants so so maybe they will take care of that here. Unfortunately they are nasty fire ants that actually eat the new growth on the vines. Really hard to get rid of these ants.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/yklzdrqsr/20180521_082743.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/yklzdrqsr/)
Yes Mark we are on the same page. Now that I have DF in the grove I use Extinguish and when I apply herbicide I add some Bifenthrin and the combination works great I Do it a couple of feet aeay from the roots and does the job well. Helps keep DF clean.
Does that stuff only work on particular type of ants? I have at least 2 differwnt types of ants here. The red/brown ones bite and sting real bad and chew up DF vines. The black ones seem fairly harmless but they still farm aphids and piss me off bad. I really just want to eradicate them in my greenhouse and around outdoor DF plants.I have 2-3 types and the combo Extinguish with Bifenthrin works for all the ones I have
It could be either one I've had some new growth convert in to flower buds. I have some Sugar Dragon cuttings that are flowering got them 5 months ago
(https://s15.postimg.cc/ghsq0342f/20180528_191557.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ghsq0342f/)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/t96w6m8pj/20180528_191825.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/t96w6m8pj/)
Its a flower bud. Its very young so it might not STAY a flower bud, especially if its your first one. You can tell if you look at it closely as the new growth looks like overlapping scales. A new branch will typically be a bit more triangular, and less rounded as what you're seeing. Again, it might revert back to stem growth, but if it hangs on for the first 2 weeks or so, it should remain a flower.
(https://s33.postimg.cc/if5kaq7x7/Bud_to_Branch.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/if5kaq7x7/)
Here's what you'll see if you lose the flower due to not enough flowering hormones.
(https://s33.postimg.cc/f8b0rd2zf/Bud_to_Branch_Mature.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/f8b0rd2zf/)
And here's what that will become if it's allowed to mature. Basically the flowers seem to be 6-sided stems, rather than 3, and if they revert back, they keep that hexagonal structure until either they decide its enough or the fruiting hormone bottoms out. I dont know if anyone has done any direct recearch on this phenomenon, but its pretty cool, and btw, harmless for the plant, if you decide to allow the six sided branch to continue.
I don't know much about the Haughton variety, other than I think its one of the 2 parent varieties of the S-8 plant, but I do know that the S-8 Sugar Dragon variety, which your plant looks quite similar to, is self fertile, and a very good pollinator for all other varieties Ive heard of. Does this plant have a single thorn in most points, thick and woody, like a rose's thorn, not spiny like a traditional cactus? Darker green skin, but leaning a bit more towards a greyer green as opposed to more of a leafy, emerald green? Its kinda hard to get a scope of the overall plant from the closeup.
I don't know much about the Haughton variety, other than I think its one of the 2 parent varieties of the S-8 plant, but I do know that the S-8 Sugar Dragon variety, which your plant looks quite similar to, is self fertile, and a very good pollinator for all other varieties Ive heard of. Does this plant have a single thorn in most points, thick and woody, like a rose's thorn, not spiny like a traditional cactus? Darker green skin, but leaning a bit more towards a greyer green as opposed to more of a leafy, emerald green? Its kinda hard to get a scope of the overall plant from the closeup.
That's what I heard too!
I'm not sure about the thorn. I tried looking for the thorns but there's none left. But the plant itself is like what you described, green but leans toward the grey side.
(https://s22.postimg.cc/vi57cxz19/F847668_E-_FE31-46_A9-_A4_A1-449_C721_D5_AF6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vi57cxz19/)
I don't know much about the Haughton variety, other than I think its one of the 2 parent varieties of the S-8 plant, but I do know that the S-8 Sugar Dragon variety, which your plant looks quite similar to, is self fertile, and a very good pollinator for all other varieties Ive heard of. Does this plant have a single thorn in most points, thick and woody, like a rose's thorn, not spiny like a traditional cactus? Darker green skin, but leaning a bit more towards a greyer green as opposed to more of a leafy, emerald green? Its kinda hard to get a scope of the overall plant from the closeup.
That's what I heard too!
I'm not sure about the thorn. I tried looking for the thorns but there's none left. But the plant itself is like what you described, green but leans toward the grey side.
(https://s22.postimg.cc/vi57cxz19/F847668_E-_FE31-46_A9-_A4_A1-449_C721_D5_AF6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vi57cxz19/)
I've got about 75% self pollination and self fertilization on my Houghton this year. If you pollinate with it's own pollen you will get nearly 100%. Good luck. You can save the pollen for a while in the fridge also.
Got a Bud at bottom of the dragon fruit
(https://s33.postimg.cc/wnqzs9w0b/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/wnqzs9w0b/)
Here is a video showing 8 months progress on my bed of dragon fruit and pineapple. DF is an unnamed pink fleshed variety with average size and flavor which was seen to be self fertile in my area.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1bAZqhqw2U (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1bAZqhqw2U)
Here is a video showing 8 months progress on my bed of dragon fruit and pineapple. DF is an unnamed pink fleshed variety with average size and flavor which was seen to be self fertile in my area.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1bAZqhqw2U (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1bAZqhqw2U)
Just out of curiosity, does anyone in the Florida area grow/sell the Ax variety of dragonfruit?I grow Ax and others here in Florida
Thanks, Anthony
Season startingWhat variety is this?
(https://s8.postimg.cc/qdkmeh9q9/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/qdkmeh9q9/)
(https://s8.postimg.cc/42wrdxzf5/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/42wrdxzf5/)
Season startingVery good chance what you have is this:
(https://s8.postimg.cc/qdkmeh9q9/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/qdkmeh9q9/)
(https://s8.postimg.cc/42wrdxzf5/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/42wrdxzf5/)
Heres an american beauty with peruvian yellow DF "grafted" onto it. Simon was nice enough to share some of the peruvian yellow DF with me and I am going to see if the growth rate is improved at all with a different rootstock. They are quite slow growers even in a greenhouse so we wjll see if it helps at all.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1779/28085702457_9c9b9aa751_b.jpg)
I'm growing a few varieties of dragon fruit in South Florida, I planted a little over a year ago and they've grown pretty well. Since around May I've had some Zamorano and American Beauty flowers open, and I hand-pollinated. Every single time though, we got a nice Miami rainfall overnight, and I've heard that will typically ruin your chances, and each time the flower has fallen off within a week or so. I'm thinking about putting some kind of tarp over them, but can I do something else like cover the open flowers with garbage bags, or would that cause some damage? Also, does it need to avoid rain the entire time the flower is open for it to stand a chance, or is it only a problem if it rains after it's been pollinated?Bag it after you have hand pollinated.
Thanks for any info - I've been looking forward to getting some fruit this year and want to do what I can to improve my chances.
Andy
Heres an american beauty with peruvian yellow DF "grafted" onto it. Simon was nice enough to share some of the peruvian yellow DF with me and I am going to see if the growth rate is improved at all with a different rootstock. They are quite slow growers even in a greenhouse so we wjll see if it helps at all.
Heres an american beauty with peruvian yellow DF "grafted" onto it. Simon was nice enough to share some of the peruvian yellow DF with me and I am going to see if the growth rate is improved at all with a different rootstock. They are quite slow growers even in a greenhouse so we wjll see if it helps at all.
Brad,
What is the Peruvian yellow DF? Is it a seedling from one of the giant yellow Megalanthus fruit we are seeing sold in the U.S.?
Nice find. Looks like the same thing. To be honest I am not overly impressed with the flavor compared to a good red or purple but they are very sweet. Did you buy a plant? Or already growing yellow megalanthus perhaps?
Seen in Pomona, California...Are those from the Cal Poly Pomona nursery/farmers market? I know they have a part of their agriculture research campus dedicated to dragon fruit there.
(https://s33.postimg.cc/9n1dkly6j/palora_2493.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/9n1dkly6j/)
Seen in Pomona, California...Are those from the Cal Poly Pomona nursery/farmers market? I know they have a part of their agriculture research campus dedicated to dragon fruit there.
(https://s33.postimg.cc/9n1dkly6j/palora_2493.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/9n1dkly6j/)
Also, as a side note, those plants all look like thier are grown from seed, not cuttings. I wonder if they are self fertile or not.
I’m continplating buying some more dragon fruit cuttings like 3 years ago I planted purple haze and physical graffiti and they have flowered a bunch but only gave me fruit once. What do I need to do to get more fruit? I was thinking planting more varieties Maybe if I have American beauty, cosmic Charlie, Halley’s Comet, physical graffiti, and purple haze. I’ll have better luck fruiting?So being in Florida and you growing about 3 years, the wood didn't rot?
(https://s15.postimg.cc/j7q0s5zx3/2638_B575-_B133-4_B3_E-98_DA-_F26_F86_F58_C67.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/j7q0s5zx3/)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/o6dj6ow07/5_D70_E1_A8-_E987-491_B-9_D4_A-_AEEFB283680_B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/o6dj6ow07/)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/g0vh8juwn/B4_EF9_D2_A-8_B4_F-4_F22-_B9_C1-25766_E3909_EC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/g0vh8juwn/)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/ygfy5y1bb/DA1100_AE-6_C22-47_E8-_A91_F-89_CD0_A4_FCFA0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ygfy5y1bb/)
Does that stuff only work on particular type of ants? I have at least 2 differwnt types of ants here. The red/brown ones bite and sting real bad and chew up DF vines. The black ones seem fairly harmless but they still farm aphids and piss me off bad. I really just want to eradicate them in my greenhouse and around outdoor DF plants.I have 2-3 types and the combo Extinguish with Bifenthrin works for all the ones I have
I’m continplating buying some more dragon fruit cuttings like 3 years ago I planted purple haze and physical graffiti and they have flowered a bunch but only gave me fruit once. What do I need to do to get more fruit? I was thinking planting more varieties Maybe if I have American beauty, cosmic Charlie, Halley’s Comet, physical graffiti, and purple haze. I’ll have better luck fruiting?
Bifenthrin or permethrin as a drench. Both are low toxic, have little to no PHI and kick ass.
Amdro or Extinguish Plus for a bait are the best ant killers.
I’m continplating buying some more dragon fruit cuttings like 3 years ago I planted purple haze and physical graffiti and they have flowered a bunch but only gave me fruit once. What do I need to do to get more fruit? I was thinking planting more varieties Maybe if I have American beauty, cosmic Charlie, Halley’s Comet, physical graffiti, and purple haze. I’ll have better luck fruiting?
If the varieties are too closely related, they may need something different for proper pollination. I believe most red varieties need another pollinator. I am growing a white variety for this reason, although my generic LaVerne Pink is self-fruitful, I'm hoping to expand the varieties that I have in the future.
That demo looks good. Where do you buy DF with a tip like that?
My red has many fruits. White has not flowered.If you have a red fleshed variety and a white fleshed variety, they should have no problem pollinating each other, as long as they flower at the same time, Or at least close to each other. It’s pretty simple - if they’re not the same variety, the pollen will work.
How are white variety going to help with cross pollination?
Is delight self fertile? Some people say it is but some say it's not. I have some buds on mine just want to make sure. it's a fast grower I bought it February just under 2ft and now it giving out fruitI haven’t found Delight to be self fertile for me in Queensland,Australia. I try to cross pollinate every flower as it tends to guarantee fruit set and fruit size is substantially bigger as well.
(https://s8.postimg.cc/knwnzmd35/20180628_201128.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/knwnzmd35/)
(https://s8.postimg.cc/u8gamjcpt/20180624_154849.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/u8gamjcpt/)
I recommend sugar dragon it's a perfect pollinatorVietnamese White , along with Sugar Dragon, is the best pollen supply you will get. Large amounts of pollen, heavy flowering cycle and strong grower with the added benefit of guaranteed fruit! Very tolerant of cold weather also.
I recommend sugar dragon it's a perfect pollinatorVietnamese White , along with Sugar Dragon, is the best pollen supply you will get. Large amounts of pollen, heavy flowering cycle and strong grower with the added benefit of guaranteed fruit! Very tolerant of cold weather also.
Is delight self fertile? Some people say it is but some say it's not. I have some buds on mine just want to make sure. it's a fast grower I bought it February just under 2ft and now it giving out fruit
After seeing how ricshaw grafted that Giant Megalanthus I got motivated to try the same lol. I rushed to get one at a local store. I’m just wondering if I plant the seeds of this faint Megalanthus will it be true to type?
(https://s33.postimg.cc/n0yk8rmkr/170_E670_D-0_F25-4823-_BDF7-_C5_B8593098_A1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/n0yk8rmkr/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/ydb5qjnjv/DAA841_CF-702_B-4_AF8-92_B7-2_F16860_D8_F22.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ydb5qjnjv/)
I tried that recently, sort of, I shoved a few into some coco/perlite mix hoping in pursuits of better ripening they'd try and grab out some roots. Instead the fruit sucked the life out of the plant portion, was my impression. They just came apart. Was busy should have checked them more. Thinking it might work as long as cut the fruit off ASAP.
So being in Florida and you growing about 3 years, the wood didn't rot?
No it even survived Irma outside with no damage. I actually just finished making 4 more just like it and planted cuttings of new varieties. Hoping to finally start getting fruit.
(https://s8.postimg.cc/x3568y7jl/B313_C25_A-8_D93-4089-85_FC-_B1_A52066_C03_B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/x3568y7jl/)So being in Florida and you growing about 3 years, the wood didn't rot?So another question, 3 years and no fruit yet? are you growing from seed? I am getting fruit from cuttings from april 2018. what are you using?
Im surprised you guys had your buds fall off. Not a single one fell off here on many different DF plants. It was 119 and my plants are sitting in full sun. I water lightly just every week or 2 so they may be well adapted to desert conditions and were not shocked by the recent heatwave.Well, those small buds turning red between the mature flowers in that picture are toast, unfortunately. The smaller and younger they are, the less likely they are to be able to withstand the heat.
The plants that lost buds for you guys, are they in ground or in containers?
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1768/43305837832_0f7ccf28a4_b.jpg)
Does anyone have pollen they can share?
Im surprised you guys had your buds fall off. Not a single one fell off here on many different DF plants. It was 119 and my plants are sitting in full sun. I water lightly just every week or 2 so they may be well adapted to desert conditions and were not shocked by the recent heatwave.Well, those small buds turning red between the mature flowers in that picture are toast, unfortunately. The smaller and younger they are, the less likely they are to be able to withstand the heat.
The plants that lost buds for you guys, are they in ground or in containers?
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1768/43305837832_0f7ccf28a4_b.jpg)
yea I have some Sugar Dragon with fruit but they're not flowering the same time my purple haze is . Oh well I'll just wait for the next flush lolDoes anyone have pollen they can share?
Recommend you plant some Sugar aka S8 cuttings. "Everyone" says it's a super producer of good pollen, is a great pollinator. They sure seem to take time to root though. Mine have been in a sandy loam for 2 months or so and still nothing. Same with a friend I gave cuttings to, his haven't pushed.
My Purple Haze never has set fruit. Flowers are nice though. ::)
Just to report my experiment on grafting young Giant Megalanthus seedlings onto other, more mature DF plants.
I used the same method that several forum member used. The only difference is that I used seedlings that are really small, less than 1in tall. I was trying to find out if grafting such young seedlings is a good way to speed up growth.
I did this on 3/22:
(https://s33.postimg.cc/y1xh01iij/142787_D3-8_A02-42_D2-_BA06-_AACF620_E56_BE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/y1xh01iij/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/p6wmphyuz/5_AA03_CB4-41_E4-42_B9-_A2_F3-3_E74_EB0_A18_E9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/p6wmphyuz/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/9y6pbr7rf/9_AA5_DDD9-_CD58-4_D7_C-_AEF9-705810962_BC5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/9y6pbr7rf/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/3x90eo5pn/ACFE3692-_E02_F-475_D-9768-_ADEE72081_C82.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3x90eo5pn/)
Started pushing after about 2 months - pics on 5/24
(https://s33.postimg.cc/b1qtnjscr/71_CA1_C0_E-_D6_EC-4267-8_C59-_FB8_D9019487_A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/b1qtnjscr/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/5qbx2udzv/94_A4_BBB5-8135-44_C5-_B7_BC-387219679_A3_D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/5qbx2udzv/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/sf142f33f/DBDAE44_F-_C62_F-42_DF-9_CC5-_FA4_D2_BA2066_C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/sf142f33f/)
Size today. The grafted seedlings are now bigger that the seedlings that are left growing in pots (last pic)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/fowvp0pwr/0_DC187_A9-673_E-4160-_A455-5_D1748048624.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/fowvp0pwr/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/cutqbjsvf/13515_C98-95_B0-498_D-9_A3_C-4293_FDA188_B6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/cutqbjsvf/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/jy1lr6lgb/41922807-_F0_CD-4_B4_B-_B0_E5-1535_AFA8_F047.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/jy1lr6lgb/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/tvcmkf8jf/E704_BDC8-_EB21-420_F-_B942-_E44277_FA4_CB6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/tvcmkf8jf/)
Cool. It looks like the peruvian strain right?
My neighbor has a DF likely over 20 years old which is growing on a tall Flame/Flambouyant/ Royal Poinciana tree (Delonix Regia) here on Pine Island, Lee County, SW Florida. The DF is nearing full bloom and is every bit as flowerful on the far side. It is a white fleshed variety rather plain in taste.
(https://s15.postimg.cc/nsmhnkhzb/DSC01393.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/nsmhnkhzb/)
Has anyone grown sugar dragon in South Florida?Yes
Bought this yellow dragon at the grocery store with a very lengthy piece of stem, about 2 to 2 1/3" inches long
(https://s33.postimg.cc/lsn9ygcl7/0_A61_AF10-1_E43-44_CD-9701-445_F95942_FD2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/lsn9ygcl7/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/6woqqutgr/D21_ADB9_D-533_D-41_CA-9_D2_F-2013080_DB3_F5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6woqqutgr/)
Are these ready to pick?
(https://thumb.ibb.co/daJyLe/IMG_20180804_194434726_HDR.jpg) (https://ibb.co/daJyLe) (https://thumb.ibb.co/fnFdLe/IMG_20180804_194440275.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fnFdLe) (https://thumb.ibb.co/k0pG6K/IMG_20180804_194618889.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k0pG6K) (https://thumb.ibb.co/gchEtz/IMG_20180804_194755639.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gchEtz)
These were fertilized on or about June 18th
(https://thumb.ibb.co/h0yb6K/IMG_20180804_194513238.jpg) (https://ibb.co/h0yb6K) (https://thumb.ibb.co/fUvdLe/IMG_20180804_194528981.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fUvdLe) (https://thumb.ibb.co/dTrk0e/IMG_20180804_194623514.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dTrk0e) (https://thumb.ibb.co/kLtyLe/IMG_20180804_194637754.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kLtyLe) (https://thumb.ibb.co/jiVZtz/IMG_20180804_194758622.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jiVZtz)
These on or about July 7th
I think it is time to take the first batch. It has been 40 days and they look ready. I will appreciate any suggestions on making the call. Also, if you can tell from the fruit what it is I will very much appreciate knowing. The first 2 pictures are the same fruit, it is easily 7 cm in diameter, maybe even more and has this really nice pink color to the fruit.
And this is why I wonder why folks sell DF cuttings for $7-$8 apiece to fellow board members? For a plant that propagates a clone of itself easier than any other. I wonder why Nopales Tuna's are not $8 a fruit or cutting when they can have much tastier fruit than DF.
So weird how Hype works in culture and translates over to a comparatively bland tasting fruit.
I really enjoy Megalanthus fruits, Have yet to try a tasty red or white mesocarp DF.
Ive had flowers but no fruit on Voodoo Child, Halley's Comet and Physical Graffiti and Valdivia Roja.
And this is why I wonder why folks sell DF cuttings for $7-$8 apiece to fellow board members? For a plant that propagates a clone of itself easier than any other.
I wonder why Nopales Tuna's are not $8 a fruit or cutting when they can have much tastier fruit than DF.
So weird how Hype works in culture and translates over to a comparatively bland tasting fruit.
I really enjoy Megalanthus fruits, Have yet to try a tasty red or white mesocarp DF.
Ive had flowers but no fruit on Voodoo Child, Halley's Comet and Physical Graffiti and Valdivia Roja.Most of the ground clutter that I don't end up cleaning up and throwing away will eventually try and root. Even the tiny, underdeveloped tips or shaded branches that fall behind my pots against my house I find trying to put out new shoots. In a hospitable environment these plants are very good at reproducing themselves through discarded branch materials, and I think if the end times ever came, they would take over my neighborhood in little time.
Bland watery watermelon!And this is why I wonder why folks sell DF cuttings for $7-$8 apiece to fellow board members? For a plant that propagates a clone of itself easier than any other. I wonder why Nopales Tuna's are not $8 a fruit or cutting when they can have much tastier fruit than DF.
So weird how Hype works in culture and translates over to a comparatively bland tasting fruit.
I really enjoy Megalanthus fruits, Have yet to try a tasty red or white mesocarp DF.
Ive had flowers but no fruit on Voodoo Child, Halley's Comet and Physical Graffiti and Valdivia Roja.
I don't get it either. I've read Sooo... many people who are kool aid hype in love with DF and I have yet to taste a DF that comes anywhere near even a sub par lowly cactus pear. DF are to me like a bland watery watermelon.
Congrats on the nursery start Simon. Hope it all goes well for you.And this is why I wonder why folks sell DF cuttings for $7-$8 apiece to fellow board members? For a plant that propagates a clone of itself easier than any other.
I wonder why Nopales Tuna's are not $8 a fruit or cutting when they can have much tastier fruit than DF.
So weird how Hype works in culture and translates over to a comparatively bland tasting fruit.
I really enjoy Megalanthus fruits, Have yet to try a tasty red or white mesocarp DF.
Ive had flowers but no fruit on Voodoo Child, Halley's Comet and Physical Graffiti and Valdivia Roja.Most of the ground clutter that I don't end up cleaning up and throwing away will eventually try and root. Even the tiny, underdeveloped tips or shaded branches that fall behind my pots against my house I find trying to put out new shoots. In a hospitable environment these plants are very good at reproducing themselves through discarded branch materials, and I think if the end times ever came, they would take over my neighborhood in little time.
Bush2beach,
If you're in the San Diego area, pm me and you can sample some of my fruit, it will likely change your mind. I like tunas also but their seeds are rock hard like guavas and their glochids are a pain to remove. Many of the commercial growers harvest their fruit much too early and I don’t blame them because they need the shelf life but it significantly reduces the eating quality.
I have been giving away Dragonfruit cuttings and various other plant materials for the past 20 years but now that I’m starting a nursery, it’s costing a fortune and we have to recover costs.
Simon
Bland watery watermelon!
Take Simons offer and try some decent varieties! You won’t be disappointed! There is a lot of crap, tastless varieties out there, usually white fleshed, that are picked way too early just to supply the market. I personally won’t eat white fleshed varieties any more due to the lack of flavour depth. And home grown is the only way to go. Pick them when they are ready to eat and they are brilliant!
Thanks Rannman, it’s a lot of work but so far it’s a labor of love.
Simon
Here are the pictures of the fruits cut.
The large pink fruit was white on the inside. The taste was sweet. Much sweeter than the store bought fruits (except the megalantus - golden yellow) . The next fruit is a very deep purple. It had a tart component to the taste. Both are agreeable and I will eat them again.
(https://thumb.ibb.co/bRKAJz/IMG_20180805_144247384.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bRKAJz) (https://thumb.ibb.co/kNpo5e/IMG_20180805_144312281.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kNpo5e) (https://thumb.ibb.co/dbqT5e/IMG_20180805_144712663.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dbqT5e) (https://thumb.ibb.co/bM5pBK/IMG_20180805_144721115.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bM5pBK)
I am still a mango guy but variety is the spice of life. For dragon fruit folks who would have wanted a more technical description of the taste, you have to send someone by to taste and report or take a cutting and grow the fruit for yourself :)
one of my sugar dragon flower is opening tonight I'm trying to see if I can pollinate the physical graffiti flower
(https://s8.postimg.cc/60fmtnp29/20180808_182140.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/60fmtnp29/)
Yes to your question Brandon. As long as you can get access to the pistil stem without damaging it, you can still apply pollen up to 2 days after bloom. The flower petals spread and wilt quickly, but the flower is still fertile until the pistil starts to degrade, usually from heat. The issue is the waspy thin petals can get a bit clingy once they wilt, so you have to use extreme care to not only peal them away (try not to tear them) but to put them back, so they can protect the pistil as it accepts the pollen and begins fertilization. On self fertile fruits, I often give the flowers a good shake in the morning, after they've closed, just incase theres any remaining pollen on the anthers, just to see if they can make their way down to the now drooping pistil.Thank you Rob for the info I'm glad I can still pollinate the flower
As a side note, if you have flowers on the cusp of blooming but you have to be away for some reason, the opposite is true as well, where you can force the front of the flower open and slip some pollen onto the pistil. Figure you have at least 24 hours in both directions to fertilize a flower from its optimal bloom state.
Those are mine. They have been flowering but all turned yellow and dropped. I'm hoping they are too young but next week will try doing some hand pollination. The mother plant of this same variety set fruit up a tree when it flowered in July.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1bAZqhqw2U (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1bAZqhqw2U)
Details of the project:
http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=228.msg295012;topicseen#msg295012 (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=228.msg295012;topicseen#msg295012)
I hand pollinated my purple haze, but the last 3 flowers just turn yellow and die a few days after the flower closed. Any idea what could be the problem? My Natural Mystic are doing fine, only one turn yellow after hand pollinate.
Here's the vine that's closest to the street. I'm calling this the "A" vine.
(http://www.kan.org/pictures/TeuchertA_w.jpg)
This was 9:00 PM in the evening; it's a 15 second exposure to get that much light. Full resolution, here (http://www.kan.org/pictures/TeuchertA.jpg).
There were at least 2 dozen blooms tonight, of which 5-6 were easily reachable on foot, and one more with a stepladder. I have about a teaspoon of pollen in my fridge, because some of my own vines will bloom within a week.
I didn't have any of my own pollen with me, so I couldn't pollinate this vine, but I will bring some next time I visit. I did hand-pollinate these flowers with their own pollen, though I suspect they're self-infertile (but I don't actually know for sure).
The B vine (also outside the gate) had only one bloom, but there are more buds ready to pop over the next several nights.
The C vine (inside the gate) also had lots of blooms tonight, but I couldn't get inside.
None of the flowers I hand-self-pollinated set fruit, so apparently the A vine is self-infertile, and I never did get around to bringing some foreign pollen to it. Maybe next bloom cycle, if we have one, or perhaps next year.
A cutting of S-8 or other pollinator will take years to get to flowering stage.
But I had another idea--What if I were to graft some S-8 on these vines?
Can one graft DF onto descending branches? Is it hard to ensure contact on an upside-down graft? When causes a grafted piece to flower? Its own maturity, or the maturity of the host plant? Or a combination of both? When is the right time to graft?
Heres an american beauty with peruvian yellow DF "grafted" onto it. Simon was nice enough to share some of the peruvian yellow DF with me and I am going to see if the growth rate is improved at all with a different rootstock. They are quite slow growers even in a greenhouse so we wjll see if it helps at all.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1779/28085702457_9c9b9aa751_b.jpg)
My DF flowers have up to 10 bees inside in the morning so I don't ever hand pollinate them.
I thought pitaya was pollinated with some kind of night moth. Forgot the name - it's big though. If bees pollinate DF then I've got it made, IF, they do so early morning before the flowers close up? ??? ???
Seems like my DF flowers don't fully close until about 10 in the morning. In my yard, the bees are busy on them until they can't get inside anymore.
I think my purchased-from-Lowes-from-LaVerne dragonfruit is about ready for trellising, so I built this:
(http://www.kan.org/pictures/DragonfruitTrellis.jpg)
Should I wrap the main post with burlap to give the aerial roots something to attach to?
My DF flowers have up to 10 bees inside in the morning so I don't ever hand pollinate them.
I thought pitaya was pollinated with some kind of night moth. Forgot the name - it's big though. If bees pollinate DF then I've got it made, IF, they do so early morning before the flowers close up? ??? ???
Seems like my DF flowers don't fully close until about 10 in the morning. In my yard, the bees are busy on them until they can't get inside anymore.
Interesting. I'm a beekeeper, so I have 40,000 bees literally right next to my DF vines, and I almost never see bees in the flowers. >:(
HAHA they seem like they dont want to be tamed. but as a beekeeper they do what they want to get there pollenI think my purchased-from-Lowes-from-LaVerne dragonfruit is about ready for trellising, so I built this:
(http://www.kan.org/pictures/DragonfruitTrellis.jpg)
Should I wrap the main post with burlap to give the aerial roots something to attach to?
I eventually built 4 more of these and wrapped them in burlap.
Dear Dragonfruit: you're doing it wrong ;D ;D ;D :
(http://www.kan.org/pictures/DFGrowingThroughBurlap.jpg)
Heres an american beauty with peruvian yellow DF "grafted" onto it. Simon was nice enough to share some of the peruvian yellow DF with me and I am going to see if the growth rate is improved at all with a different rootstock. They are quite slow growers even in a greenhouse so we wjll see if it helps at all.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1779/28085702457_9c9b9aa751_b.jpg)
Is this the "tap and plug" method mentioned in the post following yours?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ljf6wyUmJ9k (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ljf6wyUmJ9k)
Has anyone tried this onto a descending branch? I'm interested in grafting something onto those giant vines posted just above this, so that there's something to cross with those 4 plants. I've never seen fruit on them, despite several _hundred_ meters of vine that produce hundreds of flowers every season.
I hand pollinated my purple haze, but the last 3 flowers just turn yellow and die a few days after the flower closed. Any idea what could be the problem? My Natural Mystic are doing fine, only one turn yellow after hand pollinate.
What pollen did you use to hand pollinate your Purple Haze flowers?
Is this the "tap and plug" method mentioned in the post following yours?The grafting works ok but the graft is a weak point and breaks off easily. I accidentally broke both of the grafts off just moving the plant around. The center core stem heals well but the fins didnt bind well for mine and they created a weak spot. What you would need to do is put a crutch of bamboo on the joint and use some tree tape or caution tape to tie the crutch to stiffen up the graft joint.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ljf6wyUmJ9k (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ljf6wyUmJ9k)
Has anyone tried this onto a descending branch? I'm interested in grafting something onto those giant vines posted just above this, so that there's something to cross with those 4 plants. I've never seen fruit on them, despite several _hundred_ meters of vine that produce hundreds of flowers every season.
I may do some more of those and try to get them tied up to a post right away so they dont break.
I hand pollinated my purple haze, but the last 3 flowers just turn yellow and die a few days after the flower closed. Any idea what could be the problem? My Natural Mystic are doing fine, only one turn yellow after hand pollinate.
What pollen did you use to hand pollinate your Purple Haze flowers?
I tried using its own pollen (it's supposed to be self pollinate: https://www.tropicalfruitnursery.com/variety-selected-name-purple-haze--informacion-52 (https://www.tropicalfruitnursery.com/variety-selected-name-purple-haze--informacion-52))
I also tried to use pollen from Natural Mystic. I saved the Natural Mystic pollen in a plastic container and froze for 2 days, thaw at room then used the pollen.
The first 2 Purple Haze fruit I got in June was hand pollinated with their own pollen since my Natural Mystic didn't have flower back than.
"Purple Haze" is a name given to Paul Thomson's 5-S, a hybrid from a Dragon Fruit Netitzel X Rixford” cross, which Paul said has dark red or magenta flesh, flavor good – very good.
Paul also said; All of the seedlings from his “Netitzel X Rixford” cross must be cross pollinated to set fruit. Other hobbyist growers agree.
A friend of mine bought a giant Yellow Megalanthus DF from 99 Ranch market and it had a stub of a vine so he grafted it onto another DF rootstock. Shortly after the graft, he noticed new growth from the stub. Here are some pictures
Simon
Thanks!
I was surprised myself to find one with a niece piece of the stem still attached.
I'm going to try to root the cutting, since I'm not that experienced with the latter of the 2 methods.
The fruit itself was still sweet and delicious even though the skin had lots more green than the ones I usually purchased.
I'm going to be looking to see if I can find more with the same size stem I got this time around to try the grafting method.
Crossing my fingers and hope I find more.
I think the cashier thought I was crazy to have bought such green fruit...lol
A friend of mine bought a giant Yellow Megalanthus DF from 99 Ranch market and it had a stub of a vine so he grafted it onto another DF rootstock. Shortly after the graft, he noticed new growth from the stub. Here are some pictures
(https://s8.postimg.cc/7pazjyd35/0_B5_F6372-297_A-4_FFB-8_DA3-_C77_E884_F04_D5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/7pazjyd35/)
(https://s8.postimg.cc/g7kfoabw1/2_DBF6616-1_F28-4019-_A1_BA-_AE8_B59142888.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/g7kfoabw1/)
(https://s8.postimg.cc/5xi0p21g1/74_F0226_F-6_D31-44_BC-85_DE-5_AD368269173.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/5xi0p21g1/)
(https://s8.postimg.cc/optvsn5k1/9_F9_CC287-9_BA3-458_C-960_A-942_AC64_A2873.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/optvsn5k1/)
Simon
I tried using its own pollen (it's supposed to be self pollinate: https://www.tropicalfruitnursery.com/variety-selected-name-purple-haze--informacion-52 (https://www.tropicalfruitnursery.com/variety-selected-name-purple-haze--informacion-52))
I also tried to use pollen from Natural Mystic. I saved the Natural Mystic pollen in a plastic container and froze for 2 days, thaw at room then used the pollen.
The first 2 Purple Haze fruit I got in June was hand pollinated with their own pollen since my Natural Mystic didn't have flower back than.
"Purple Haze" is a name given to Paul Thomson's 5-S, a hybrid from a Dragon Fruit Netitzel X Rixford” cross, which Paul said has dark red or magenta flesh, flavor good – very good.
Paul also said; All of the seedlings from his “Netitzel X Rixford” cross must be cross pollinated to set fruit. Other hobbyist growers agree.
That's why it's one of my favorite varieties they're tuff and always producing
(https://s8.postimg.cc/3pz64ebgh/793_C9405-626_D-4_A48-_B01_E-_CE6365_CDC6_CE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3pz64ebgh/)
(https://s8.postimg.cc/4fhygt9g1/A733_E4_BA-5_F0_C-4066-91_E5-5_AB685_C0_F9_FE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4fhygt9g1/)
Sugar Dragon keeps on impressing me! It’s the last week of winter, insanely dry, with temps in the last week down to 0 degrees Celsius and my Sugar Dragon plants have decided to start flowering! This variety has survived on rain for the last 5 months(very little), temps down to -2.5 Celsius and continued to flourish, while also not being attacked and consumed from within by cactoblastis, which is making a mess of quite a few varieties . Over 30 flower buds on 8 two year old plants! Not a bad effort!
I have about 8 posts in the ground at my place. Most are stainless steel or galvanized steel from a metal recycler place in Chula Vista. They are about 8-10 feet tall, I dig a 3 foot hole and fill with concrete and then at the top drill holes and place two pieces of rebar to form a cross covered with irrigation hose. They have lasted many years. I do have one or two 4 inch thick redwood posts that I did the same way. Here is a photo of one of the
I have about 8 posts in the ground at my place. Most are stainless steel or galvanized steel from a metal recycler place in Chula Vista. They are about 8-10 feet tall, I dig a 3 foot hole and fill with concrete and then at the top drill holes and place two pieces of rebar to form a cross covered with irrigation hose. They have lasted many years. I do have one or two 4 inch thick redwood posts that I did the same way. Here is a photo of one of the
Mark I decided metal is easier to deal with. I got the posts at lowes and use redwood 2x4 for the tops and 1/2" rebar. Ordered some bulk coco liner for the posts. Got about half of the holes dug. Hoping these last a long time.. Glad you recommended metal, much easier than pouring concrete and making molds, carrying them.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1861/42461895050_c3cbb2d2c2_b.jpg)
Here's the vine that's closest to the street. I'm calling this the "A" vine.The vines in that Lomita Dragonfruit Park are going pop tonight or Sunday night. Anyone want to sneak in with me and steal some pollen?
(http://www.kan.org/pictures/TeuchertA_w.jpg)
Or maybe sneak in and pollinate a few dozen flowers?
DF definitely get really heavy. I might throw a 3rd rebar in there since Seanny says its not enough. Seanny post some photos of your supports if you can. Im always open to new ideas. And I will be making more supports in the future.
Tested. So it's good to go.
I'll snap a picture of the failed one later.
Does anyone know how to effectively dry and store pollen for Dragon fruit?Here's the simple version of my process:
Thank you Rob I'll try this when my flowers bloomDoes anyone know how to effectively dry and store pollen for Dragon fruit?Here's the simple version of my process:
1. Use some sort of object you can insert into the flower, without damaging it, as far in as you can get it, and tap on the flowers stem to dislodge the pollen. I have an ice scoop that I've cut and reshaped to fit the flowers geometry, but another good idea Ive hear is to take a 1 litre soda or water bottle, and basically cut half the body of it out to form a scoop, then trim whats left of the body into a point, with a curved tip (no sharp or pointy edges), so it had a triangular shape.
2. Dump your pollen onto a white, or other lightly colored, plate so you can go through it and dig out anything that isnt pollen, like ants, flower parts, etc. Use tools like tweezers or sewing needles. Avoid touching the pollen directly.
3. Spread your pollen out on a folded paper towel or a napkin, not in clumps, but as an even powder. Place it somewhere shady, not in direct sunlight, but warm, and let it sit for 8-24 hours. Beware of strong drafts that might blow your pollen off its resting surface.
4. Place the towel/napkin back on your plate, fliped over, and pat/flick the dried pollen back onto the plate surface. Reexamine for anything not pollen. At my house its usually cat hair.
5. Here's the important part. Using as small of a container as possible, you can now store your pollen in your freezer. The colder the better. But the container is key. I have small sample vials I picked up from Ebay that I use. The idea is that you was as little air in with the pollen as possible. For a single flower, using something like the glass tubes free perfume samples used to come in would be a good size. Whatever you find, the container needs to be as small as you can find and air tight. Oh, and clean, too. Any moisture in the air can degrade the pollen when ice crystals form.
This process should give you pollen that will last a couple weeks in storage.
great work Brad! your DFs seem very productive.
A few days ago I hand pollinated two flowers of Physical Graffiti with its own pollen. Was done at 11pm. Made sure I put a sufficient amount in the stigma. Flowers dropped. I had no other pollen available. I have heard both, that physical graffiti es self fertile and others say it not. Any one with experience on this ?
Particularly looking with successfull pollination with other cultivars.
It has been my experience that Physical Graffiti is NOT self fertile.
It has also been reported that Physical Graffiti needs pollen from an unrelated Dragon Fruit, not a related Paul Thomson "S" variety (except S-8).
The following information came from Paul’s book Pitahaya – A Promising New Fruit Crop for Southern California, second edition August 2002, pgs. 39 – 41, 45 & 46.
Paul says his first Pitahaya hybrid seeds came from two unknown species he called “Neitzel” and “Rixford”. Neitzel produced white flesh fruit and Rizford produced red flesh fruit. From this cross, Paul says in his book that there were 8 seedlings produced. One seedling died and all of the remaining 7 flowered and produced fruit. Two of the plants had what Paul called outstanding fruit and three had very good fruit. In Paul’s own words; “It was a most fortuitous cross.”
Note: According to Paul, all of the seedlings from his “Netitzel X Rixford” cross must be cross pollinated to set fruit.
Paul also produced two seedlings from a different cross between “Houghton” and Rixford. Both Houghton and Rixford have red flesh fruit and in Paul’s opinion excellent flavor.
The “S” stands for seedling.
1-S – dark pink flesh, flavor very good, renamed “Physical Graffiti” by Florida nursery.
2-S – deep red flesh, flavor very good to excellent renamed “Cosmic Charlie”
3-S – delicate pink flesh, flavor superb, named “Delight” by Paul.
4-S – pale pink flesh, flavor very good.
5-S – dark red or magenta flesh, flavor good – very good, renamed “Purple Haze”
6-S – Paul removed after freeze damage
7-S – Paul removed after freeze damage
8-S – deep, almost fluorescent magenta flesh, flavor excellent, named “Sugar Dragon” by grower Linda.
9-S – red flesh, flavor a close second to 3-S, renamed “Dark Star” by Florida nursery.
Note: 7-S and 8-S are from the Houghton X Rixford cross.
S1, S2, S3, S8, etc. are the same, just different naming for 1-S, 2-S, 3-S, 8-S, etc.
It has been reported that some of the above were renamed by Pine Island Nursery.
By the way, where do we get a copy of the Paul Thompson book? Cant fine any for sale online.
Rebar is not stiff enough. I've seen design like yours drooped.If you prune your vines you can keep them light enough and not bend the rebar. Mine have been in the ground over 6 years and I trim out old vines and keep the structure stable.
Do you put nuts at end?
I believe Leo doesn't have any copies left. Someone was asking if they could make a copy of it.By the way, where do we get a copy of the Paul Thompson book? Cant fine any for sale online.
Leo Manuel of San Diego, California is the publisher and source for the book.
Rebar is not stiff enough. I've seen design like yours drooped.If you prune your vines you can keep them light enough and not bend the rebar. Mine have been in the ground over 6 years and I trim out old vines and keep the structure stable.
Do you put nuts at end?
Does anyone know how to effectively dry and store pollen for Dragon fruit?
Hopefully. The rebar may be good now but a few years of rust could make it fail. So I will probably hit them with some rustoleum and seal thewood parts and hope for the best. I have a bunch of horse panels that would work also but no great places to set them up.
Brad, the Frankie's Red has 2 new growths. Will go into my pitaya bed, speaking of which I've got furniture grade PVC elbows and connectors coming to use on 1" PVC pipe. The trellis will be PVC 2' X 6' by 5' high covered with 6" heavy duty cattle panel. The perimeter will be wrapped with this stuff so the (thick) panel edges don't cut thru the tissue. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J7RKTDA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A15TP87GWKFZSB&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J7RKTDA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A15TP87GWKFZSB&psc=1)
Also, a Sugar Pitaya cutting that was laid on its side with one rib in, for months, never did root. I planted it upright with the Frankie's Red to take its spot. I've shared Sugar S-8 with 2 others and we all say the same thing - that variety takes forever to root.
The S8 shouldnt take long to root. It shoild root and grow within a few weeks. If its taking longer, especially in your GH, you got bad cuttings. Probably not mature enough.
If you want some good pieces I can send you some. Ive got a lot of S8 plants laying around. Take the ones that have been idle gorever and toss them.
Also when you get cuttings, the longer they are the more energy stored in them. If these were short pieces it can make things happen slower. Or if they were taken in the middle of winter, no energy reserves etc... This time of year a proper cutting should be really fast to get going.
Cool, yeah I dont know S8 roots and grows really fast. Could have just been the timing of when yours were cut. Middle of summer when they are full of energy is best.
You going to have a big bush of DF in a year or 2. These things grow like crazy. If your other trees are any indication, your DF are going to be overflowing in no time.
wow, that’s crazy growth and productivity within just a year.
Brad, seems your DF flowers open fairly early? How does condor taste compared to other varieties?
wow, that’s crazy growth and productivity within just a year.
Brad, seems your DF flowers open fairly early? How does condor taste compared to other varieties?
What do you mean by flowers open early? Time of day? They open around 9 or 10PM and close by 9 or 10AM.
Its too soon to tell about condor since I have just started getting much fruit from the plants but so far I tried most of the 1S,2S..9S paul thomson types and they all taste more or less the same. With exception of 8S which is a different cross. I much prefer the 8S and will be planting more of that.
wow, that’s crazy growth and productivity within just a year.
Brad, seems your DF flowers open fairly early? How does condor taste compared to other varieties?
What do you mean by flowers open early? Time of day? They open around 9 or 10PM and close by 9 or 10AM.
Its too soon to tell about condor since I have just started getting much fruit from the plants but so far I tried most of the 1S,2S..9S paul thomson types and they all taste more or less the same. With exception of 8S which is a different cross. I much prefer the 8S and will be planting more of that.
Yes I was referring to time of day. Looking like the flowers remain open in the morning.
First flower of my Simon’s purple opened last night. Pics taken this morning. Hand-pollinated with some sugar dragon pollens that I froze a month ago, as well as its own pollen. Not sure if it will work.let me know how good Simon purple is
Got the cutting last summer. Cuttings I planted this year grew much faster
(https://s33.postimg.cc/gl8ay2irf/4932_C90_A-4_F60-46_EC-_A9_C6-6_CBB6_DECA514.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/gl8ay2irf/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/4jcx3xoyj/8_BA36_D1_B-_E2_E0-4_DDD-9108-1_F0_D651_AB548.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4jcx3xoyj/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/a7j7uu10r/A4530_C71-4710-4283-8_C5_F-3726_DD50_EBE6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/a7j7uu10r/)
Some new buds forming for the American Beauty too
(https://s33.postimg.cc/hc1140swb/7_F277250-_E06_B-42_B8-97_BC-_A290_E1_DEC965.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/hc1140swb/)
Here's the simple version of my process:I didn't know container size was important! But it makes sense, because excess space will have more air to oxidize stuff, and more potential for condensation. I just defrosted some pollen to take to the giant Lomita "Dragonfruit Tree" and when I was done I had drops of water in my pollen, just from condensation.
1. Use some sort of object you can insert into the flower, without damaging it, as far in as you can get it, and tap on the flowers stem to dislodge the pollen. I have an ice scoop that I've cut and reshaped to fit the flowers geometry, but another good idea Ive hear is to take a 1 litre soda or water bottle, and basically cut half the body of it out to form a scoop, then trim whats left of the body into a point, with a curved tip (no sharp or pointy edges), so it had a triangular shape.
2. Dump your pollen onto a white, or other lightly colored, plate so you can go through it and dig out anything that isnt pollen, like ants, flower parts, etc. Use tools like tweezers or sewing needles. Avoid touching the pollen directly.
3. Spread your pollen out on a folded paper towel or a napkin, not in clumps, but as an even powder. Place it somewhere shady, not in direct sunlight, but warm, and let it sit for 8-24 hours. Beware of strong drafts that might blow your pollen off its resting surface.
4. Place the towel/napkin back on your plate, fliped over, and pat/flick the dried pollen back onto the plate surface. Reexamine for anything not pollen. At my house its usually cat hair.
5. Here's the important part. Using as small of a container as possible, you can now store your pollen in your freezer. The colder the better. But the container is key. I have small sample vials I picked up from Ebay that I use. The idea is that you was as little air in with the pollen as possible. For a single flower, using something like the glass tubes free perfume samples used to come in would be a good size. Whatever you find, the container needs to be as small as you can find and air tight. Oh, and clean, too. Any moisture in the air can degrade the pollen when ice crystals form.
This process should give you pollen that will last a couple weeks in storage.
This is a san ignacio plant. There was a photo of the buds a page ago. They bloomed last night. Bees are all over it.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1859/43687723385_2581245398_b.jpg)
I just couldn't stand to see all these flowers drop, so I went there around 10:00 PM last week and pollinated one. I couldn't reach any others without a taller ladder.
I didn't know container size was important! But it makes sense, because excess space will have more air to oxidize stuff, and more potential for condensation. I just defrosted some pollen to take to the giant Lomita "Dragonfruit Tree" and when I was done I had drops of water in my pollen, just from condensation.
So I just ordered a set of 10 vials, for $8.29 (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D2OHBHU/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with free shipping:
First flower of my Simon’s purple opened last night. Pics taken this morning. Hand-pollinated with some sugar dragon pollens that I froze a month ago, as well as its own pollen. Not sure if it will work.
Got the cutting last summer. Cuttings I planted this year grew much faster
(https://s33.postimg.cc/gl8ay2irf/4932_C90_A-4_F60-46_EC-_A9_C6-6_CBB6_DECA514.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/gl8ay2irf/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/4jcx3xoyj/8_BA36_D1_B-_E2_E0-4_DDD-9108-1_F0_D651_AB548.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4jcx3xoyj/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/a7j7uu10r/A4530_C71-4710-4283-8_C5_F-3726_DD50_EBE6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/a7j7uu10r/)
Some new buds forming for the American Beauty too
(https://s33.postimg.cc/hc1140swb/7_F277250-_E06_B-42_B8-97_BC-_A290_E1_DEC965.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/hc1140swb/)
Nice, looking very healthy. Which all types are you growing? I got an american beauty from someone out of state and it grows like crazy but not a sigle bloom. Its weird. I may toss it.Thanks. I have Simon's purple, American Beauty, Halley's Comet, Yellow dragon, Giant Yellow Peru, Sugar Dragon S-8, Frankie's Red, Natural Mystic, Dark Star, Condor, Makisupa. I also grafted a few Giant Yellow seedlings (DF fruits from Ranch 99) onto Halley's Comet.
Nice, looking very healthy. Which all types are you growing? I got an american beauty from someone out of state and it grows like crazy but not a sigle bloom. Its weird. I may toss it.Thanks. I have Simon's purple, American Beauty, Halley's Comet, Yellow dragon, Giant Yellow Peru, Sugar Dragon S-8, Frankie's Red, Natural Mystic, Dark Star, Condor, Makisupa. I also grafted a few Giant Yellow seedlings (DF fruits from Ranch 99) onto Halley's Comet.
I got Natural Mystic, Dark Star, Condor, Makisupa cuttings from you in Dec. last year. Nice growth so far. Hopefully I will get some fruits next year.
Got my AB cutting from Simon. To me AB seems to be very similar to Simon's Purple in terms of the vines.
can't wait! instead of tossing the ones you don't want, would you consider grafting desirable varieties instead?Nice, looking very healthy. Which all types are you growing? I got an american beauty from someone out of state and it grows like crazy but not a sigle bloom. Its weird. I may toss it.Thanks. I have Simon's purple, American Beauty, Halley's Comet, Yellow dragon, Giant Yellow Peru, Sugar Dragon S-8, Frankie's Red, Natural Mystic, Dark Star, Condor, Makisupa. I also grafted a few Giant Yellow seedlings (DF fruits from Ranch 99) onto Halley's Comet.
I got Natural Mystic, Dark Star, Condor, Makisupa cuttings from you in Dec. last year. Nice growth so far. Hopefully I will get some fruits next year.
Got my AB cutting from Simon. To me AB seems to be very similar to Simon's Purple in terms of the vines.
All of the purple guatemalan ones like AB, dark star, condor etc are very similar. Im going try and narrow down which one is best and get rid of some of the others.
If you come over in 6 or 8 weeks we can try most of them side by side.
can't wait! instead of tossing the ones you don't want, would you consider grafting desirable varieties instead?Nice, looking very healthy. Which all types are you growing? I got an american beauty from someone out of state and it grows like crazy but not a sigle bloom. Its weird. I may toss it.Thanks. I have Simon's purple, American Beauty, Halley's Comet, Yellow dragon, Giant Yellow Peru, Sugar Dragon S-8, Frankie's Red, Natural Mystic, Dark Star, Condor, Makisupa. I also grafted a few Giant Yellow seedlings (DF fruits from Ranch 99) onto Halley's Comet.
I got Natural Mystic, Dark Star, Condor, Makisupa cuttings from you in Dec. last year. Nice growth so far. Hopefully I will get some fruits next year.
Got my AB cutting from Simon. To me AB seems to be very similar to Simon's Purple in terms of the vines.
All of the purple guatemalan ones like AB, dark star, condor etc are very similar. Im going try and narrow down which one is best and get rid of some of the others.
If you come over in 6 or 8 weeks we can try most of them side by side.
oxidize stuff, and more potential for condensation. I just defrosted some pollen to take to the giant Lomita "Dragonfruit Tree" and when I was done I had drops of water in my pollen, just from condensation.
I didn't know container size was important! But it makes sense, because excess space will have more air to oxidize stuff, and more potential for condensation. I just defrosted some pollen to take to the giant Lomita "Dragonfruit Tree" and when I was done I had drops of water in my pollen, just from condensation.They've arrived! So here's my "pollen collection kit:"
So I just ordered a set of 10 vials, for $8.29 (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D2OHBHU/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with free shipping:
oxidize stuff, and more potential for condensation. I just defrosted some pollen to take to the giant Lomita "Dragonfruit Tree" and when I was done I had drops of water in my pollen, just from condensation.
Don't uncap it until the container has reached room temp. Like I said, I dilute pollen with flour before storing it in the fridge, not the freezer.
Since we're getting into that time of year when our thought turn to dragon fruit and the lovely, yet finicky, flowers they come from, I thought I would take the time to pass along a few tips on how I go about doing my pollinating and the tools I use to do it. Here are a few pictures to help with the more visual types among us:
(https://s13.postimg.cc/v6btcn0vn/Tools_Numbered.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/v6btcn0vn/)
(https://s3.postimg.cc/xbx2f76of/Scale_and_Refrac.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/xbx2f76of/)
(https://s16.postimg.cc/j1zy3evch/Pollen_Tools.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/j1zy3evch/)
(https://s24.postimg.cc/vocby3t9d/Dehydrator.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vocby3t9d/)
In order of appearance are the following:
1. A digital scale. Mostly for use at the end of the process, weighing fruit, so you can show off the results of your mighty fruit creation skills. We all need something to brag about, and what's not to love about sharing.
2. A refractometer. Again, this is another 'after the fact' tool. Its used to measure the amount of dissolved solids in a liquid, namely how much sugar is in fruit juice, MORE namely how much sugar is in your dragon fruit. These come in both digital (shown) and optical varieties. The optical looks like a cross between a flute and a spyglass, and it very easy to use if you decide you have enough interest in the hobby to have dedicated testing tools like this.
3. Pollen Dehydrator. This is a custom item I built myself, and I use it to remove moisture from the collected pollen before I store it in the freezer. It works like a common food dehydrator, except its a mostly sealed environment (with the door closed) and I do not add heat (pollen is sensitive). Running a small fan in the box circulated the air through an area of Silica Gel (those "DO NOT EAT" packets you find in packaging) and that draws out the extra water and makes the pollen less likely to be damaged by extended stays in the freezer.
4. My worktrays. To avoid excess contamination, I tend to lean towards ceramic for work surfaces and these sized trays do the job nicely. They clean easily, are almost completely non-stick and the high white finish allows me to pick out foreign objects (plant parts, bugs, thorns, etc.) both before and after drying.
5. Pollination brush. Most of the time I directly manipulate the flowers to apply pollen, but sometimes can prove difficult to get at, tucked in between pointy branches, so I use the brush to extend my reach. Any soft bristle brush will do, as long as its clean and free from contaminants (aka, don't use your significant other's makeup brush). Also, the stick end helps with moving and poking at various things, like bugs and flower petals.
6. Funnel and pollen tubes. The plastic sample tubes I use are small 20cc plastic sample tubes, with attached lids. Easy to find in bulk and cheap on places like Ebay. With the matching tray, they are perfect for upright storage in the freezer and don't take up too much space. The funnel is pretty self explanatory, and is used for putting pollen in tubes.
7. The pollen collecting scoops. Now, here's a biggy. I use these to collect my pollen from the flowers, usually in the early morning before I go to work. The shape of the tools is very important. The larger of the two, and the one I use most often, is just a simple Ice Scoop that I reshaped using metal cutting snips. The more pointed end and wide back matches the shape of the flower very well and allows me to maximize pollen yields. Also, I filed down the cut edges so they are nice and smooth, so as to not damage the internal parts of the flower. The actual tool you use is less important than the shape. I've had other people Ive talked to use 1 and 2 liter plastic bottles, cut on a slant, to do the same job, and it seems just as effective.
8. Pollen sorting tools. I use these to both clear the collected pollen of foreign objects and to scoop pollen into the funnel. You should do your best to avoid touching the pollen with your hands, as the oils on your fingers can do bad things to living things that small.
Ok, now that's were through that, here are what I hope are a few helpful tips to get you more fruit.
First off, if you have multiple fruit varieties, the order in which you pollinate is very important. I always try to collect the pollen from one plant variety first, then move on to the next, first pollinating the second plant's flowers with pollen from the first, then going back and collecting the seconds pollen for use on the next plant. You're always going to get better results if you cross pollinate, even if some on the varieties you're working with are self fertile. Its worth the extra time to make that last trip back to the beginning of the loop to make sure you're mixing, not matching.
Next, don't be afraid to get your hands dirty, or in this case pollen-y. If the flowers are easy to get at, and at a good height, Ill just reach into the flower and grab it by the lady parts (the long thick Pistil that extends from the center of the flower and ends in a starfish-like shape) and dip the end of it directly into my pollen catcher. Gentle but firm. You're not going to harm the flower by doing this if you're at all careful and its a good way to pollinate quickly if you have a lot of flowers in one area.
On a related note, collecting the actual pollen is just as simple. Just insert your pollen catcher into the flower, in the space between the white petals and the yellow stamen that surround the pistil (lady parts), and give the entire flower a good shake or tap. The pollen will come right off and into your collector. Flick out any large foreign objects but leave the removal of the smaller stuff until later, when you can get at it with clean tools.
Before you're done for the day, though, (hopefully) you'll have left over pollen. However you decide to do it, just make sure it has a chance to dry in a warm, dry place for at least 8 hours ( I usually do 24 without the dehydrator) to allow for proper storage condition. You can use coffee filters as your drying medium if you don't want to do anything fancy, but just make sure the pollen is undisturbed and free from added contaminants like dust or animal hair. To be safe, you can even add a second coffee filter on top of the first, once the pollen is added, to act as a protective layer.
Ive had successful pollination months after storage, so if you ever find yourself with extra pollen, its never a bad idea to put some aside for later, because with the various conditions (wind, bees, etc) you never know when some leftovers will come in handy.
I hope this helps out a few people, and here's to hoping for a successful season to everyone.
grab it by the lady parts
Got some Bruni blooms over the weekend. Also got some Asunta 2, Asunta 3, and AX cuttings.Gorgeous purple flower. Heard that the asunda’s also have purple flowers and good taste.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1899/42929981500_e85c62c478_b.jpg)
What is Everyone's Favorite Dragon Fruit?Sugar Dragon, Physical graffiti,Condor,Delight.
Maybe say that cuttings are at least 8” or 12”.so 30"+ would be good for the ones on right since they go up to 39"
Just getting started with Dragon Fruit. Have not yet read all 114 pages of this thread but iwll knock out a chunk tonight.there is no need, but here is a facebook group to help with growing
Has anyone used any hormones on these to make them bud or branch out?
something like BAP?
Or anyone try Coconut water as a natural cytokine for this type of thing?
I have a night blooming cereus which is in the family I believe, I get blooms on that thing ever few months. Are these similar to Cereus? If so I think I'll be good to go.
In southwest Florida I've been seeing flower drop on DF within a few days of opening, and on inspection the buds are infested with fruit fly larvae. I don't have an exact Id but they look similar to the fruit flies seen on guava. The life cycle of of most fruit flies is they hatch in 1-3 days after eggs are laid and larvae life about a week so the eggs were likely laid around bloom time possibly while in bloom or shortly before. This variety is light pink fleshed. Interesting to note is that nearby white fleshed varieties never seem to be bothered by fruit flies. About 1/2 of buds on this bloom held without the flies.of the 50 Varieties i grow in south Florida never had a problem with white flies, but i will go knock on wood to ensure it does not happen to me
Has anyone else experienced fruit fly in DF flowers and found a solution?
Does anyone in here have a picture of Desert king Dragon Fruit from Israel ?.
Because I bought a red fleshed Dragon Fruit and it seems like it is a hybrid between yellow and red Dragon Fruit.
Not white flies, fruit fly maggots (larvae).In southwest Florida I've been seeing flower drop on DF within a few days of opening, and on inspection the buds are infested with fruit fly larvae. I don't have an exact Id but they look similar to the fruit flies seen on guava. The life cycle of of most fruit flies is they hatch in 1-3 days after eggs are laid and larvae life about a week so the eggs were likely laid around bloom time possibly while in bloom or shortly before. This variety is light pink fleshed. Interesting to note is that nearby white fleshed varieties never seem to be bothered by fruit flies. About 1/2 of buds on this bloom held without the flies.of the 50 Varieties i grow in south Florida never had a problem with white flies, but i will go knock on wood to ensure it does not happen to me
Has anyone else experienced fruit fly in DF flowers and found a solution?
No problems with anything in SE Florida on the 50 Varieties grown except for a Caterpillar eating one and sprayed BT and it made a comebackNot white flies, fruit fly maggots (larvae).In southwest Florida I've been seeing flower drop on DF within a few days of opening, and on inspection the buds are infested with fruit fly larvae. I don't have an exact Id but they look similar to the fruit flies seen on guava. The life cycle of of most fruit flies is they hatch in 1-3 days after eggs are laid and larvae life about a week so the eggs were likely laid around bloom time possibly while in bloom or shortly before. This variety is light pink fleshed. Interesting to note is that nearby white fleshed varieties never seem to be bothered by fruit flies. About 1/2 of buds on this bloom held without the flies.of the 50 Varieties i grow in south Florida never had a problem with white flies, but i will go knock on wood to ensure it does not happen to me
Has anyone else experienced fruit fly in DF flowers and found a solution?
Was the flower purple?
Was the flower purple?
Yup
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8EtkVChN83-12PZ7Oyy9bYj7yV33gs6q_9JA5qQTc6H2q57nyQBaOYhrFIXa2tQomh5g90dy62nTpA44I-uHaXlZz7KY3OeQg6kcLGvEgel5rNtMxRqm8uIg0wX9CzTy3GLaMzPWOozp-Tk20jiLne6URTVzqzCfOqAibwPJeeiT5jqLfR-yRFypWaEUFvGT0fWR4hs4cxWkNbxS_AJVCT15KbC9VU8M-i55loDJ3sSwU0bocMsssfuGHXzPreBjhJ88whmMQYoWpAH7_T0PNUq1MLaXCi0b2pdVsoinV1H-wCXlWKrl6bL4JzER_vWeIzm8n1mLlUYMvszph4W_T6rfXhFYqYB_cS4d6wKDmJy3v90_ClsEQ73B1TcsMdApfIJf-iuGVgy56fwNQzDOUwv0VyZiHcRRHBmE9TPWlxrP4LS5WjPGUoQTezGbuCdIHdZrHGGjBhG9simSPHv4N4QUKxb3UtVK4dAnK0p8NCryfyBV6SMZO9j3gplSwOlTXmK8vCAL9VpuXUZ1xXHorSK6m_2P1Z5NGdcSurFkMi2QnA132DwbOpEwlRiuR1heMdVqXuuIhePuoWIA3vA6BMbGRn50InjoKj_U0GtUgqgWyZW6CnuRck6lWG8e5Ls=w1295-h971-no)
You really should get ahold of some Sugar Dragon variety. I personally havnt tried the new, larger yellow fruits that have started showing up recently, but I know I wasn't a fan of the original yellow Megalanthus. It wasn't its sugar content either that turned me off, in fact, it was almost the opposite. To me, Megalanthus yellow tastes almost entirely of sugar, like eating old time rock candy, pure sweet but no other flavor. I do know some of the darker reds and magentas are getting pushed into high sugar production, but for me its not all about sweet. Add a bit of fruity flavor to that, though , and now we're talking.
Having said that, Im hoping I can get a chance to check out that new yellow variety sometime soon to I can give an honest, personal, comparison.
Tried this Bruni yesterday. Its quite sweet (brix 20). Very similar to megalanthus fruits taste and sweetness. It was picked a little early (wanted to try it before animals got it) and late in the year. These could easily be mid 20s on the brix scale next year. Its lacking in the flavor department but if its sugar you want, these deliver.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4895/45953060302_47e8afa97c_b.jpg)
I've had the yellow Megalanthus fruits from different countries and I notised a slite difference in appearance and taste. One was sugar sweet with no other flavor and the other one had a sweet lemonade like flavor which I liked more. Had anyone else tasted one with the lemonade flavor?You really should get ahold of some Sugar Dragon variety. I personally havnt tried the new, larger yellow fruits that have started showing up recently, but I know I wasn't a fan of the original yellow Megalanthus. It wasn't its sugar content either that turned me off, in fact, it was almost the opposite. To me, Megalanthus yellow tastes almost entirely of sugar, like eating old time rock candy, pure sweet but no other flavor. I do know some of the darker reds and magentas are getting pushed into high sugar production, but for me its not all about sweet. Add a bit of fruity flavor to that, though , and now we're talking.
Having said that, Im hoping I can get a chance to check out that new yellow variety sometime soon to I can give an honest, personal, comparison.
Its just sugar flavor again.
I had some sugar bomb american beauties here that were as sweet as the yellows plus a nice grape floral rose flavor. Excellent. I prefer that any day over the giant yellow. The fruits are larger and easier to grow too.
I've had the yellow Megalanthus fruits from different countries and I notised a slite difference in appearance and taste. One was sugar sweet with no other flavor and the other one had a sweet lemonade like flavor which I liked more. Had anyone else tasted one with the lemonade flavor?
I'm pleased to show some good fruits from my DF picked today. I planted 10 posts with four cuttings each a year ago, they grew well and flowered well early in the summer but all flowers yellowed and fell. Later in the summer there was a second flowering which I hand pollinated and got a few fruits but many flowers became infested with fruit fly larvae and fell. The last flowering was sparse and I just ignored them and they came through with two very nice fruits. Perhaps the plants just needed more time and things worked out. This is an unnamed variety which was planted on a tree when I bought the property and propagated. There were several varieties most white fleshed this was my favorite. I'll try to get a brix when I find my refractometer but it was average sweet to me.
Here is a section of the planting a few months ago:
(https://i.postimg.cc/qzc0Y8Tj/DSC01430.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qzc0Y8Tj)
Here are the fruits from today:
(https://i.postimg.cc/SnJ4KH9t/DSC01500.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SnJ4KH9t)
So I pollinated my Bruni (Hylocereus stenopterus X Hylocereus undatus) with Selenicereus grandiflorus. The fruit was the size of a normal dragonfruit, so huge from Bruni, which I believe is directly correlated with % pollenization. My other Bruni fruits did not set. The seeds did not germinate as quickly or with as high a rate as I expect from dragonfruit. I think I planted 12-15 seeds and have three alive, all stuck at cotyledons, as they have been for four months. I had one or two others that eventually withered and died. Does anyone have insight into this? I've read about intergeneric hybridization causing embryos to abort but I don't even know what to search for. It would be nice if there were a way to stimulate them, though I don't hold out much hope for that. I'm also just curious to learn about why this happened.
Indoors, SW-facing window, though it has some kind of tint on it.
Indoors, SW-facing window, though it has some kind of tint on it.
Probably needs more light input. Even a CFL bulb would help. Ideally run it on a timer for 14hrs a day until its warm enough to move outdoors.
You probably already know but its super important to thin to a single vine ASAP on those DF seedlings. You will get the growth you want if you always remove new vines and focus all energy into 1 vine. If you let a seedling go with many vines thry just stall out and take forever to grow.
Hello guys, I have aged sheep manure (8months old) with redworms and grasses growing above, I want to put it on my dragons soon, they are now potted but I'm going to plant them in field until next month. My cutting are 1 and 2 years old, how much the quantity per plant should be? Furthermore, how much epsom salt you use to spray plants?If you have Facebook the Epsom salt i posted on US dragon fruit growers
Thanks
If sugar dragon need to pollinated by hand?or self pollinate?
Indoors, SW-facing window, though it has some kind of tint on it.
Probably needs more light input. Even a CFL bulb would help. Ideally run it on a timer for 14hrs a day until its warm enough to move outdoors.
You probably already know but its super important to thin to a single vine ASAP on those DF seedlings. You will get the growth you want if you always remove new vines and focus all energy into 1 vine. If you let a seedling go with many vines thry just stall out and take forever to grow.
10-4, I think this bout of cold will be over soon and out they will go. I didn't realize it was such a priority, I have some older seedlings from a large yellow fruit which I hadn't had the heart to prune yet. I'll get on that, thank you.
(https://i.postimg.cc/GBn5CqsT/CCC38085-9012-4-AD4-B33-E-7-B76-D0116-AA4.png) (https://postimg.cc/GBn5CqsT)
Anyone like to take a guess on the chance of this being a Megalanthus cross? Red flesh fruit, no spikes, self pollinating. From Vietnam apparently.
Anyone like to take a guess on the chance of this being a Megalanthus cross? Red flesh fruit, no spikes, self pollinating. From Vietnam apparently.
(https://i.postimg.cc/GBn5CqsT/CCC38085-9012-4-AD4-B33-E-7-B76-D0116-AA4.png) (https://postimg.cc/GBn5CqsT)
Anyone like to take a guess on the chance of this being a Megalanthus cross? Red flesh fruit, no spikes, self pollinating. From Vietnam apparently.
Well it seems to vary. This winter we only had a few days under 32, one in the 20's. The winter of 2009, we had several days down into the teens lol. I think it usually gets into the upper to mid 20's F a few times in the winter and several nights of 32F. It warms up pretty good during the daytime. I have only been here 3 1/2 years so far so kinda figuring it out as I go. We got up into the 100's F a few times last summer but the direct sun here is not as burning hot as when I lived on the west coast, probably due to the humidity.I do have anti-rain cover to protect the DF from frost and cold rain in winter. or the tender branch will hurted.
Soooo I am thinking, if I built a long wooden raised bed with a tall 2x4 frame around it I could cover it if I needed to and possibly even stick a small heater in there if it gets too cold.
Lenette
Indoors, SW-facing window, though it has some kind of tint on it.
Probably needs more light input. Even a CFL bulb would help. Ideally run it on a timer for 14hrs a day until its warm enough to move outdoors.
You probably already know but its super important to thin to a single vine ASAP on those DF seedlings. You will get the growth you want if you always remove new vines and focus all energy into 1 vine. If you let a seedling go with many vines thry just stall out and take forever to grow.
10-4, I think this bout of cold will be over soon and out they will go. I didn't realize it was such a priority, I have some older seedlings from a large yellow fruit which I hadn't had the heart to prune yet. I'll get on that, thank you.
Nate I meant to post this weeks ago and forgot. This is a palora seedling that a forum member named Kang left here back in Fall. It had several vines on it and the growth was small and slow. I thinned it to one vine and you can see where it took off at that point and now has mature looking growth. This plant will probably produce fruit by end of summer.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7873/46566547694_eac4b2642d_b.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7886/46566499054_87bd94bea0_b.jpg)
I have a rooted Cosmic Charlie cutting that is all tan and mushy at the bottom inch or so.
However, the core is still solid, the roots look good and it is growing (it is about a foot tall) and putting on new shoots.
Will it be ok, or should I restart it?
Thanks!
Carolyn
Thanks Bo, here is a picture. What is confusing me is that it is still growing, and when I tug on it, it is very well anchored in the pot. You can see the spot on the left where the brown skin is just tearing off. But the core is solid.
The times this happened to me in the past, the cutting died. I have cut the cutting to get rid of the rot and replanted with success. A pic may help
Thanks Bo, here is a picture. What is confusing me is that it is still growing, and when I tug on it, it is very well anchored in the pot. You can see the spot on the left where the brown skin is just tearing off. But the core is solid.
The times this happened to me in the past, the cutting died. I have cut the cutting to get rid of the rot and replanted with success. A pic may help
Cut and re-root?
Bury it?
Just leave it be?
Carolyn
(https://i.postimg.cc/0KDfP57R/Cosmic-Charlie.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0KDfP57R)
Thanks Bo, here is a picture. What is confusing me is that it is still growing, and when I tug on it, it is very well anchored in the pot. You can see the spot on the left where the brown skin is just tearing off. But the core is solid.
The times this happened to me in the past, the cutting died. I have cut the cutting to get rid of the rot and replanted with success. A pic may help
Cut and re-root?
Bury it?
Just leave it be?
Carolyn
(https://i.postimg.cc/0KDfP57R/Cosmic-Charlie.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0KDfP57R)
That's unusual. The base has rotted in a way suggestive of water damage, but your mix appears to be free draining. What's most likely going to happen is that the rotted area will peel away leaving the wooden central core exposed. If it were mine, I'd let this happen. The newer growth will continue to grow regardless. When this gets larger, say two lengths and has hardened off, cut these, and replant them discarding the rotten base segment entirely. Edit: I personally do not rate cosmic charlie. I strongly suggest getting another variety.
my dragonfruit seems to yellow if it gets any direct sun, how do you guys deal with it?
Thanks Bo, here is a picture. What is confusing me is that it is still growing, and when I tug on it, it is very well anchored in the pot. You can see the spot on the left where the brown skin is just tearing off. But the core is solid.
The times this happened to me in the past, the cutting died. I have cut the cutting to get rid of the rot and replanted with success. A pic may help
Cut and re-root?
Bury it?
Just leave it be?
Carolyn
(https://i.postimg.cc/0KDfP57R/Cosmic-Charlie.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0KDfP57R)
That's unusual. The base has rotted in a way suggestive of water damage, but your mix appears to be free draining. What's most likely going to happen is that the rotted area will peel away leaving the wooden central core exposed. If it were mine, I'd let this happen. The newer growth will continue to grow regardless. When this gets larger, say two lengths and has hardened off, cut these, and replant them discarding the rotten base segment entirely. Edit: I personally do not rate cosmic charlie. I strongly suggest getting another variety.
Not sure of the right answer. But if the soft area is dry and not spreading you can get a larger pot take out the plant and bury it up to the healthy tissue. All I hand done in the past is cut to healthy tissue and replant but it’s up to you. Too bad your not close or you could get some new cuttings
here is a picture. What is confusing me is that it is still growing, and when I tug on it, it is very well anchored in the pot. You can see the spot on the left where the brown skin is just tearing off. But the core is solid.
Cut and re-root?
Bury it?
Just leave it be?
Carolyn
(https://i.postimg.cc/0KDfP57R/Cosmic-Charlie.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0KDfP57R)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0KDfP57R/Cosmic-Charlie.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0KDfP57R)
We just got done up-potting the drain fruit cuttings we got from @spaugh last year. Finally seeing some growth.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Jn7RXpKG/Attach52721-20190628-152556.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z5VmS8Jm/Attach52722-20190628-152556.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pdpwM30Q/Attach52723-20190628-152558.jpg)
If the variety you are talking about is actually ‘Sugar Dragon’, it won’t take much pollinating. You could probably sleep in and do it in the morning 👍👍
I don't recall if I've ever asked this question but if I did, I'm sorry. I forgot the responseDaly City should be a very good location to grow DF, as it eliminates (mostly) the 2 conditions that inhibit healthy plants....too much heat (103+) and too much cold (34 and below). Costal cities tend to do well with dragon fruit, especially once they are established, as the aerial rooting system lends itself to the foggy mornings. As long as there is no issue with a lack of pollinators in the area (bees, etc.) then the plants should do well once they are past the cutting stage. To get them established, or to root cuttings, a warmer, and sunnier, spot would be preferable, such as against a western facing wall, so the plants can soak up additional heat radiation that the backing surface absorbs. Even a few hours a day on a cheap heating mat will help speed up maturity for newly rooted cuttings. Just make sure the soil has plenty of drainage, Nor Cal winters can be quite wet. Above ground containers/pots are probably preferable.
Well a relative of mine wants to grow some DF in his backyard. The issue is , he lives in Daly Ciry, CA. Just wondering has anyone had any luck growing them over in that area or know if it'll grow there. I think there zone is 10b.
This particular cutting has been in the ground for over a year... it’s finally putting out a branch. Sometimes you just have to be patient, eventually it’ll grow. I’ve forgotten what variety it is.FYI, im pretty sure that is a white variety. The whites tend to have the brown "corking" streak on the pointed, thorned edges of their 3 sided branches, where reds and magentas tend to be a bit more curvy and don't have that sharp angle.
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2e0o6rc.jpg)
I don't recall if I've ever asked this question but if I did, I'm sorry. I forgot the responseDaly City should be a very good location to grow DF, as it eliminates (mostly) the 2 conditions that inhibit healthy plants....too much heat (103+) and too much cold (34 and below). Costal cities tend to do well with dragon fruit, especially once they are established, as the aerial rooting system lends itself to the foggy mornings. As long as there is no issue with a lack of pollinators in the area (bees, etc.) then the plants should do well once they are past the cutting stage. To get them established, or to root cuttings, a warmer, and sunnier, spot would be preferable, such as against a western facing wall, so the plants can soak up additional heat radiation that the backing surface absorbs. Even a few hours a day on a cheap heating mat will help speed up maturity for newly rooted cuttings. Just make sure the soil has plenty of drainage, Nor Cal winters can be quite wet. Above ground containers/pots are probably preferable.
Well a relative of mine wants to grow some DF in his backyard. The issue is , he lives in Daly Ciry, CA. Just wondering has anyone had any luck growing them over in that area or know if it'll grow there. I think there zone is 10b.
I don't recall if I've ever asked this question but if I did, I'm sorry. I forgot the responseDaly City should be a very good location to grow DF, as it eliminates (mostly) the 2 conditions that inhibit healthy plants....too much heat (103+) and too much cold (34 and below). Costal cities tend to do well with dragon fruit, especially once they are established, as the aerial rooting system lends itself to the foggy mornings. As long as there is no issue with a lack of pollinators in the area (bees, etc.) then the plants should do well once they are past the cutting stage. To get them established, or to root cuttings, a warmer, and sunnier, spot would be preferable, such as against a western facing wall, so the plants can soak up additional heat radiation that the backing surface absorbs. Even a few hours a day on a cheap heating mat will help speed up maturity for newly rooted cuttings. Just make sure the soil has plenty of drainage, Nor Cal winters can be quite wet. Above ground containers/pots are probably preferable.
Well a relative of mine wants to grow some DF in his backyard. The issue is , he lives in Daly Ciry, CA. Just wondering has anyone had any luck growing them over in that area or know if it'll grow there. I think there zone is 10b.
Thank you so much Rob!! I'll pass the info over to my relative! 😊
I don't recall if I've ever asked this question but if I did, I'm sorry. I forgot the responseDaly City should be a very good location to grow DF, as it eliminates (mostly) the 2 conditions that inhibit healthy plants....too much heat (103+) and too much cold (34 and below). Costal cities tend to do well with dragon fruit, especially once they are established, as the aerial rooting system lends itself to the foggy mornings. As long as there is no issue with a lack of pollinators in the area (bees, etc.) then the plants should do well once they are past the cutting stage. To get them established, or to root cuttings, a warmer, and sunnier, spot would be preferable, such as against a western facing wall, so the plants can soak up additional heat radiation that the backing surface absorbs. Even a few hours a day on a cheap heating mat will help speed up maturity for newly rooted cuttings. Just make sure the soil has plenty of drainage, Nor Cal winters can be quite wet. Above ground containers/pots are probably preferable.
Well a relative of mine wants to grow some DF in his backyard. The issue is , he lives in Daly Ciry, CA. Just wondering has anyone had any luck growing them over in that area or know if it'll grow there. I think there zone is 10b.
Thank you so much Rob!! I'll pass the info over to my relative! 😊
I just started growing some in pots in Redwood City (~15 miles away) earlier this year... weather is a bit less temperate than Daly City but mine have been very happily growing several inches a week this summer.
On a related note, they will probably be 5-6 feet tall by September/October, when it'll start getting cooler and less sunny up here. I've got a single stem going up - will it start branching out on its own eventually, or should I cut the tip to encourage more lateral growth? If so, is it better to do that at a certain time of year, or does it not matter?
I'm stumped about one of my plant. It's currently 5 ft tall and have 3 buds growing. But I noticed the stems went from plump to skinny. It's the S8. I have another S8 that is about 4 ft tall with 2 buds. But the stems on that on is still plump. Is there a reason why it goes from being plump to skinny. Am I not watering enough? I water them max 2 times a week , sometimes one.Skinny stems, ones that look more like actual branches and less like 3 sided 'finned' dragon fruit stems are usually caused be a lack of sunlight in my garden. My particular growing scheme means I have a lot of undergrowth if I don't keep things trimmed as much as I should and the new growth that is under eves or the plants canopy, meaning its shaded all day, will grow just as rapidly in length, but they don't have the plumpness to the branch as would be typical. Having said that, the internal woody core of the plant, its main circulatory '"artery" will still be of normal size and growth capacity. Think of it as a skinny kid with normal bones; the plant looks weaker but everything's still working. Now, if you have a main stem or runner that has this going on, as soon as it does manage to get back into a sunny area, it will resume growth normally, so you can allow these types of stems to remain if you want to use them for main runners or to shape your plants. As soon as normal conditions resume, normal growth should follow.
I'm stumped about one of my plant. It's currently 5 ft tall and have 3 buds growing. But I noticed the stems went from plump to skinny. It's the S8. I have another S8 that is about 4 ft tall with 2 buds. But the stems on that on is still plump. Is there a reason why it goes from being plump to skinny. Am I not watering enough? I water them max 2 times a week , sometimes one.Skinny stems, ones that look more like actual branches and less like 3 sided 'finned' dragon fruit stems are usually caused be a lack of sunlight in my garden. My particular growing scheme means I have a lot of undergrowth if I don't keep things trimmed as much as I should and the new growth that is under eves or the plants canopy, meaning its shaded all day, will grow just as rapidly in length, but they don't have the plumpness to the branch as would be typical. Having said that, the internal woody core of the plant, its main circulatory '"artery" will still be of normal size and growth capacity. Think of it as a skinny kid with normal bones; the plant looks weaker but everything's still working. Now, if you have a main stem or runner that has this going on, as soon as it does manage to get back into a sunny area, it will resume growth normally, so you can allow these types of stems to remain if you want to use them for main runners or to shape your plants. As soon as normal conditions resume, normal growth should follow.
Of course, this is how it works here. It is possible that you might have a situation that, if sunlight isn't the issue, you might be lacking in a particular nutrient that the plant needs for proper development, but that would be on a case by case basis, and you would have to see what works for you. Or just go with an all in one type fertilizer and weed out the problems that way.
I know it's been asked before but what are ya'll feeding your faves with? NPK and micros please.
I agree with what Brad said. DF are pretty forgiving when it comes to fertilizers but the important thing is to fertilize because they are heavy feeders in warm weather. Once the vines are large enough to produce, I significantly cut back on Nitrogen and use 3-10-10 with minors and trace. Of the minors and trace, I make sure they get enough Iron, Magnesium and Calcium. My 3-10-10 has enough Zinc and Boron to keep the vines productive year after year.did you stand n the shade structure to take that pic? Fruit looks nice but I would be scared to get up there. I assume you didnt do any pollinating with the american beautys?
Here’s my American Beauty growing in a pot with about 50 fruit on it. It used to produce a lot more fruit but it’s getting old and I have not performed maintenance pruning because I am remodeling my backyard. I grew this vine on my old deteriorating patio.
(https://i.postimg.cc/YvK1Hnph/350194-B5-04-E7-428-D-8-CE9-7-AEC925280-B0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YvK1Hnph)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QHWpvGZ2/91-F5155-D-02-BD-4373-9575-6887-AD482444.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QHWpvGZ2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3WqXLrVj/9-FAF38-AA-B3-DE-4204-886-A-2-B532800-D900.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3WqXLrVj)
Simon
I have to climb up a ladder and balance myself on rotting wood, it’s shady and I wouldn’t recommend it for those that are prone to falling
I don’t hand pollinate any of my DF because I’m too lazy. The bees do all the work for me.
Simon
I know it's been asked before but what are ya'll feeding your faves with? NPK and micros please.
Same as most stuff. Use a high nitro full package fert until the plants are mature size then switch to a flower bloom high PK full package fert.
And calcium, gypsum or super triple P or something with Ca.
First American Beauty of the year. Many of my fruit have some rotting back by the blossom end because I didn’t remove my dried blooms in time. I only just removed them about a week ago.
Simon
Hi guys. It may seem strange and stupid, but I grow dragon fruits in Russia. Today I have 11 varieties.
1. American Beauty
2.Bien Hoa Red
3.Bruni
4.Cebra
5.Cosmic Charlie
6.Dark Star
7.Delight
8.Halleys Comet
9.Hana
10.К1
11.Purple Haze
I've been looking for cuttings of the "Yellow Dragon" Selenicereus megalanthus for a long time. Can someone sell me with delivery to Russia?
This year I grow them in a greenhouse, for the winter I clean them home. This has been going on for 6 years and I have not seen flowers yet, but I still hope.Hi guys. It may seem strange and stupid, but I grow dragon fruits in Russia. Today I have 11 varieties.
1. American Beauty
2.Bien Hoa Red
3.Bruni
4.Cebra
5.Cosmic Charlie
6.Dark Star
7.Delight
8.Halleys Comet
9.Hana
10.К1
11.Purple Haze
I've been looking for cuttings of the "Yellow Dragon" Selenicereus megalanthus for a long time. Can someone sell me with delivery to Russia?
Amazing! Are you fruiting those in a greenhouse?
First American Beauty of the year. Many of my fruit have some rotting back by the blossom end because I didn’t remove my dried blooms in time. I only just removed them about a week ago.
Simon
Simon, I yanked one of the dried flowers off and the long stigma came with it. Won't this leave a hole for water entry and rot? Would it be better to cut the blossom off at the new fruit?
Brad, which varieties you have are probably self fertile?
Brad, which varieties you have are probably self fertile?
I am not really sure to be honest. All of them are setting fruit here but Conor is the one that had the most dropped flowers. Its supposed to be self fertile. It may have just been bad timing during a heat wave too, I dont know.
Its too much of a hassle to go out at night and do it. The bees are hitting the flowers for me as soon as they open around 7:30PM
I go out at night sometimes and the pollen is already gone from the bees too. The bees really like DF flowers and pollen. I can see balls of it hanging off their legs.
Its too much of a hassle to go out at night and do it. The bees are hitting the flowers for me as soon as they open around 7:30PM
I go out at night sometimes and the pollen is already gone from the bees too. The bees really like DF flowers and pollen. I can see balls of it hanging off their legs.
Interesting. Having bees can be a negative then?
Does anyone know if Haley’s Comet is self fertile? Thanks in advance.No, needs to be crossed pollinated with another variety https://www.facebook.com/groups/373619656486562/permalink/615056992342826/ (https://www.facebook.com/groups/373619656486562/permalink/615056992342826/)
Its too much of a hassle to go out at night and do it. The bees are hitting the flowers for me as soon as they open around 7:30PM
I go out at night sometimes and the pollen is already gone from the bees too. The bees really like DF flowers and pollen. I can see balls of it hanging off their legs.
Interesting. Having bees can be a negative then?
I never thought of it that way but I guess it is if you are really on top of pollinating, the bees are not as good at it as you and they take all the pollen.
My problem is I dont like to go out at night because we have mountain lions and rattlesnakes.
So yesterday evening I went and tied some S8 flowers shut as an experiment. When I went out there this morning all the pollen was still there and I was able to cross pollinate some other plants! So this is what I have to do... my plants are about to do a mega bloom so I will try and pollinate them.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ftF3NxW0/20190822-082102.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ftF3NxW0)
Its too much of a hassle to go out at night and do it. The bees are hitting the flowers for me as soon as they open around 7:30PM
I go out at night sometimes and the pollen is already gone from the bees too. The bees really like DF flowers and pollen. I can see balls of it hanging off their legs.
Interesting. Having bees can be a negative then?
I never thought of it that way but I guess it is if you are really on top of pollinating, the bees are not as good at it as you and they take all the pollen.
My problem is I dont like to go out at night because we have mountain lions and rattlesnakes.
So yesterday evening I went and tied some S8 flowers shut as an experiment. When I went out there this morning all the pollen was still there and I was able to cross pollinate some other plants! So this is what I have to do... my plants are about to do a mega bloom so I will try and pollinate them.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ftF3NxW0/20190822-082102.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ftF3NxW0)
That’s a smart way to save pollen. I’d be interested to understand if hand pollination in the morning yields good results. I think early morning should be fine, but the stigma starts to dry up shortly after.
I apologize if it’s not OK to ask but does anyone know if Matt’s landscaping is closed? I spoke with him on 7/27/19 and placed a small order which he said he’d fill the next weekend. That was the last I heard about the order. I’ve called a few times but the recording says the mailbox is full. I haven’t been charged so am not out anything. It seems like I need to give up on my order and look elsewhere.
Just curious about my experience though.
Thanks.
(https://i.postimg.cc/GHvhFDPL/46-FDE364-359-F-4331-9290-FBF318-BBED3-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GHvhFDPL)
Would the dragonfruit experts on here suggest this yellowing is from sunburn? Should I just buck 30% shade cloth over top? They are getting a phenomenal amount of sun and fruiting prolifically. I count 6-10 buds per plant right now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/GHvhFDPL/46-FDE364-359-F-4331-9290-FBF318-BBED3-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GHvhFDPL)
Would the dragonfruit experts on here suggest this yellowing is from sunburn? Should I just buck 30% shade cloth over top? They are getting a phenomenal amount of sun and fruiting prolifically. I count 6-10 buds per plant right now.
Dont use shade cloth, the fruit wont develop. Just ignore it, the plants are old and in poor health. Use some avocado fertilizer and mulch it and just let it do its thing. They will come back with nice growth if you can up pot it
I apologize if it’s not OK to ask but does anyone know if Matt’s landscaping is closed? I spoke with him on 7/27/19 and placed a small order which he said he’d fill the next weekend. That was the last I heard about the order. I’ve called a few times but the recording says the mailbox is full. I haven’t been charged so am not out anything. It seems like I need to give up on my order and look elsewhere.
Just curious about my experience though.
Thanks.
He was moving to a bigger property and going bigger retail and trying to get away from doing small oders. Hes busy with bigger stuff I guess. He was selling a lot of landscaping cactus to retailers. Not a good excuse to treat your customers that way. It is what it is.
I apologize if it’s not OK to ask but does anyone know if Matt’s landscaping is closed? I spoke with him on 7/27/19 and placed a small order which he said he’d fill the next weekend. That was the last I heard about the order. I’ve called a few times but the recording says the mailbox is full. I haven’t been charged so am not out anything. It seems like I need to give up on my order and look elsewhere.Your not the first person, good luck
Just curious about my experience though.
Thanks.
Also that is his 2nd job also for dragon fruitI apologize if it’s not OK to ask but does anyone know if Matt’s landscaping is closed? I spoke with him on 7/27/19 and placed a small order which he said he’d fill the next weekend. That was the last I heard about the order. I’ve called a few times but the recording says the mailbox is full. I haven’t been charged so am not out anything. It seems like I need to give up on my order and look elsewhere.
Just curious about my experience though.
Thanks.
He was moving to a bigger property and going bigger retail and trying to get away from doing small oders. Hes busy with bigger stuff I guess. He was selling a lot of landscaping cactus to retailers. Not a good excuse to treat your customers that way. It is what it is.
Thanks for the info. No big deal. He did talk a little about how busy he is. As long as I’m not fighting for a refund I’m good. Who knows, he may fill the order eventually.
I apologize if it’s not OK to ask but does anyone know if Matt’s landscaping is closed? I spoke with him on 7/27/19 and placed a small order which he said he’d fill the next weekend. That was the last I heard about the order. I’ve called a few times but the recording says the mailbox is full. I haven’t been charged so am not out anything. It seems like I need to give up on my order and look elsewhere.
Just curious about my experience though.
Thanks.
I apologize if it’s not OK to ask but does anyone know if Matt’s landscaping is closed?
Hi guys! Today I received the cuttings of a Selenicereus megalanthus from a member of the Grapebush forum. I always rooted the dragon fruit in the sand, but this time I want to try to do it in perlite. Who has positive perlite rooting results? Is this a good idea or is it better to use sand?
(https://i.postimg.cc/9r5NPbzc/IMG-20190828-102951.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9r5NPbzc)
I just use well draining potting mix in a small pot and dont over water.This is probably the easiest and safest way, I just thought that perlite would be a good alternative to sand, but before doing this I decided to find out if there were any positive results.
Hi guys! Today I received the cuttings of a Selenicereus megalanthus from a member of the Grapebush forum. I always rooted the dragon fruit in the sand, but this time I want to try to do it in perlite. Who has positive perlite rooting results? Is this a good idea or is it better to use sand?
Perlite is better than sand.I thought to do it in pure perlite, maybe I'll try it your way.
I prefer Perlite on the bottom and a little good draining potting soil on top.
Hi guys! Today I received the cuttings of a Selenicereus megalanthus from a member of the Grapebush forum. I always rooted the dragon fruit in the sand, but this time I want to try to do it in perlite. Who has positive perlite rooting results? Is this a good idea or is it better to use sand?Just make sure of 2 things:
(https://i.postimg.cc/9r5NPbzc/IMG-20190828-102951.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9r5NPbzc)
Hi guys, one question:
Any of this varieties produce without hand pollination?
Palora
Sin Espinas
Pepino Dulce
Country Roads
Lisa
Frankie’s red
Purple Haze
Physical Graffiti
Thanks!
Hi guys, one question:
Any of this varieties produce without hand pollination?
Palora
Sin Espinas
Pepino Dulce
Country Roads
Lisa
Frankie’s red
Purple Haze
Physical Graffiti
Also I'm interested in know this about El Grullo, Godzilla and Pink Panther.
Hi guys, one question:
Any of this varieties produce without hand pollination?
Palora
Sin Espinas
Pepino Dulce
Country Roads
Lisa
Frankie’s red
Purple Haze
Physical Graffiti
Also I'm interested in know this about El Grullo, Godzilla and Pink Panther.
I think the Palora, Pepino Dulce, and Frankie's Red may be self fertile. Most of the rest I know are not.
Pink Panther isn’t self pollinating for me in Australia. My self pollinating varieties are Columbian Supreme, Yellow megalanthus, Frankie’s Red, Vietnamese White, and Sugar Dragon .
Hi guys, one question:
Any of this varieties produce without hand pollination?
Palora
Sin Espinas
Pepino Dulce
Country Roads
Lisa
Frankie’s red
Purple Haze
Physical Graffiti
Thanks!
I apologize if it’s not OK to ask but does anyone know if Matt’s landscaping is closed?
I just found out that Mattslandscaping Epicacti Nursery in Fallbrook, CA is closed.
People have and been waiting 3 monthsI apologize if it’s not OK to ask but does anyone know if Matt’s landscaping is closed?
I just found out that Mattslandscaping Epicacti Nursery in Fallbrook, CA is closed.
Not sure what’s happening with Matt’s Landscape, but his website is still active and I could still place an order if I wanted to🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
(https://i.postimg.cc/8f4zv2LG/70-D55-F03-C218-4806-ACED-56-BBD340-E1-C9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8f4zv2LG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DSZ8rwCM/EA1-D6-FF8-1566-4-F9-D-8-E62-1-BBAF57-B5-E6-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DSZ8rwCM)
I am consistently amazed by dragonfruit flowers. I suppose this eventually gets old?
Do people in southern CA let their plants set fruit this late in the year or is it best to remove the buds and let the plants focus on current fruit set?
Do people in southern CA let their plants set fruit this late in the year or is it best to remove the buds and let the plants focus on current fruit set?
This year, my Dragon Fruit plants flowered and set fruit late! I live North of Los Angles and still have have flowers and fruit growing.
I notice that for So Cal, from South to North, San Diego County, Orange County, Los Angeles County, Ventura County, the reports of fruit set varies. The more South a County the earlier.
Another thought: I get out at night to pollinate, but the bees show up in full force by 8-9am. Is it possible they're taking the pollen I used to pollinate such that I won't get fruit set?
Birds figured out my DF are yummy and started pecking holes in them as soon as thry start turning red. Here's my decoy painted rocks I'm putting around the plants to hopefully discourage the birds. It's burgundy krylon in case anyone needs to do the same.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1nppZbFR/20191003-121238.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1nppZbFR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/47CzqXmF/20191003-121252.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47CzqXmF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0zQdJtTZ/20191003-121408.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zQdJtTZ)
Birds figured out my DF are yummy and started pecking holes in them as soon as thry start turning red. Here's my decoy painted rocks I'm putting around the plants to hopefully discourage the birds. It's burgundy krylon in case anyone needs to do the same.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1nppZbFR/20191003-121238.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1nppZbFR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/47CzqXmF/20191003-121252.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47CzqXmF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0zQdJtTZ/20191003-121408.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zQdJtTZ)
I got these yellow variety dragon fruit plant from Ebay. I thought they were cuttings, but they were like 5" plant from seeds. I didn't know it will take 4yrs+ to fruit. Should I try to graft a couple of them to my Vietnamese white rootstock? My Vietnamese white in the ground though. Maybe take a vietnamese white cutting, root it in a pot, then try the graft?
(https://i.postimg.cc/WF06cTkN/20191001-075918.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WF06cTkN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/kV0FHBDY/20191001-075925.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kV0FHBDY)
I got these yellow variety dragon fruit plant from Ebay. I thought they were cuttings, but they were like 5" plant from seeds. I didn't know it will take 4yrs+ to fruit. Should I try to graft a couple of them to my Vietnamese white rootstock? My Vietnamese white in the ground though. Maybe take a vietnamese white cutting, root it in a pot, then try the graft?
(https://i.postimg.cc/WF06cTkN/20191001-075918.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WF06cTkN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/kV0FHBDY/20191001-075925.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kV0FHBDY)
It wont take 4 years. Probably 2 years. I wouldnt bother trying to graft them, just let them do their thing.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XGvjrhcC/CB8-FDE96-115-A-4-DD0-9-BE3-63-C3-B6-FC2456.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XGvjrhcC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3kH3XWF7/1792-A338-120-B-4-B11-881-A-3987172-FD084.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kH3XWF7)
Looks like Selenicereus anthonyanus.I think you're right, this is very similar to Selenicereus Anthonyanus
I'm no expert but I've seen different heights from really short to pretty tall. It probably comes down to preference and ease of harvesting and maintenance. Mine is around 4 1/2 or 5 feet tall, I'm going to be up potting some cuttings from last year and I plan on making the post maybe a foot shorter.Thanks for your reply. I think 5 feet will be the best height. Maybe someone else will give advice.
5ft is a nice height. You want to be able to easily reach over the top support to trim up the vines.Brad, I have to keep my plants in the greenhouse during the cold season, if the height is above 5 feet, this will be a problem for me.
5ft is a nice height. You want to be able to easily reach over the top support to trim up the vines.Brad, I have to keep my plants in the greenhouse during the cold season, if the height is above 5 feet, this will be a problem for me.
Unfortunately, there are no other methods to grow dragonfruit in Russia. Thank you for your advice, I will take this into account.5ft is a nice height. You want to be able to easily reach over the top support to trim up the vines.Brad, I have to keep my plants in the greenhouse during the cold season, if the height is above 5 feet, this will be a problem for me.
Thrn make it 4ft, it doesnt really matter that much. Moving dragonfruit plants is a big pain though so plan accordingly. They are heavy, sharp, awkward. Not a fun plant to move around.
After a long bout of health problems, I'm back to my dragon fruit. The person who was taking care of the plants for me didn't do a great job, so all 10 of my plants have been reduced to a pile of unlabeled stragglers in a single pot :( While I work on rehabilitating them enough to ID, where can I go to get more cuttings online? It looks like Matt's has completely closed down and Spicy Exotics is completely out of the Natural Mystic, David Bowie, Purple Haze, and Physical Graffiti I'd like to start with on this go-round.
Cool, I've got a ton of DF stuff and new types here. Just waiting for the weather to clear up to do some planting and cutting sales.
Can anyone explain to me why dragon fruit farms often grow their dragon fruit in containers vs in the ground?I think they either are trying to overcome soil or drainage problems. The biggest growers like in Asia always plant in the ground. There are some smaller growers which may look like they are in containers but the bottom of the pots have been cut out. Restricting roots to just the space of a pot makes the plant dependent soley on the grower for everything and represents a physical limitation to the potential of the plant.
Brad
Hi guys, today I finished making containers for my dragonfruit. A total of 6 containers. I decided to economy and plant two different varieties in one container. Someone tell me which land is better to use? I have a good humus from chicken manure, is it possible for pitahaya?
Hi guys, today I finished making containers for my dragonfruit. A total of 6 containers. I decided to economy and plant two different varieties in one container. Someone tell me which land is better to use? I have a good humus from chicken manure, is it possible for pitahaya?Are you planning on moving the plants around once they are bigger? If not, and you decide to plant more, one suggestion I would make is to use your current design but make the post a full 8 feet long. cut a hole in the bottom of the pot and run the post straight into the ground. Or, more specifically, set posts into the ground, deep enough so they wont shift or lean, and then put a container, with a hole in the bottom, over the post and then build your support arms on top as normal. These plants can get very top heavy so you need to make sure they cant lean or topple over.
(https://i.postimg.cc/WFgbBmzz/IMG-20200426-143026.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WFgbBmzz) (https://i.postimg.cc/5QjbSDGh/IMG-20200426-143035.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5QjbSDGh) (https://i.postimg.cc/TLNX1CwC/IMG-20200426-143048.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TLNX1CwC) (https://i.postimg.cc/7bQxZYJw/IMG-20200426-143107.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7bQxZYJw) (https://i.postimg.cc/G8mCbZc4/IMG-20200426-143126.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G8mCbZc4)
Your suggestions are correct, but unfortunately they are not suitable for my country. The only way to get something from dragonfruit is to grow it in large pots and, when the weather is cold, move it to the room.
Mark, you may be surprised, but I don't like the taste of mango, and I know a lot of people who have tried to grow it in a container. None of them have achieved the result. We have more popular citrus,cocoa, eugenia, they give good fruit when growing in pots.
Plastic bag with some paper towel in it, before they open. Works every time👍. Big job for a large scale operation, but if you’re wanting to try a new variety, it’s the way to go.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9R7G3pVW/47-F23-F6-E-1924-45-B5-A7-A7-82-B4275-A60-A5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9R7G3pVW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yJWmjKb3/69-EBB52-E-0-F89-47-FA-9-D1-E-7-A20-DFAA8-B5-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJWmjKb3)
Are those flowers actually blue, or more purple?
First Asunta3 flowers tonight and its raining :(
(https://i.postimg.cc/yJF7QGsF/download-20200605-223021-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJF7QGsF)
How is the fruit on the Asunta? Ive not seen those plants in person yet.First Asunta3 flowers tonight and its raining :(
(https://i.postimg.cc/yJF7QGsF/download-20200605-223021-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJF7QGsF)
Damn, that’s a beautiful looking flower!
Simon
First Asunta3 flowers tonight and its raining :(
(https://i.postimg.cc/yJF7QGsF/download-20200605-223021-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJF7QGsF)
Damn, that’s a beautiful looking flower!
Simon
How is the fruit on the Asunta? Ive not seen those plants in person yet.First Asunta3 flowers tonight and its raining :(
(https://i.postimg.cc/yJF7QGsF/download-20200605-223021-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJF7QGsF)
Damn, that’s a beautiful looking flower!
Simon
How is the fruit on the Asunta? Ive not seen those plants in person yet.
(https://i.postimg.cc/56rN7GBP/37069-F09-FAC2-4-DA4-B3-F0-D8-BD1-CFCE3-C8.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/56rN7GBP)You might be able to get a couple plants out of that original. In the first picture, just past the (what I call) knuckle of the branch, where it starts to lay across the bench, there are "air roots" coming out of the plant. If you wanted, you can cut the long growth at that knuckle and plant the rest of that piece in a pot if you bury those air roots. The air roots are just regular roots and are usually a sign of the plant being underwatered and looking for more moisture, or clinging supports if the plant was grown up a post or wall. Either way, you can use those areas to start new plant more easily. OR, if you want to just maintain the single plant, get yourself a decent sized pot, 10-15 gallon for long term, and make sure you face those air roots to whatever structure you provide for the plant to grow up and out on. You can also just plant it in the ground if you have a suitable area.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sBYj2gt8/73-F9-DFE1-30-A8-41-C8-A344-0883627-DB61-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sBYj2gt8)
Hello all!
A friend recently moved and gave me what was left of her dragon fruit plant. As u can see in the pics, it’s seen better days.
It is obvious that it needs a new planter but other than that, it is very yellow, has brown spots on some of the pieces and just looks very sad.
I’d Love to have a dragon fruit plant but I don’t want to go thru the effort of building the support structure and repotting it if it is just too far over the brink.
TIA Afro any advice or suggestions you may offer. ~Kelli
I think its the bees stealing the pollen, not the weather. They strip the pollen before the flowers even open. By 7PM they are getting in as soon as the flower starts to open and pollen is all gone within minutes. I see them they all have big blobs of pollen on their legs. The neighbor has hives just a few hundred feet away.This is what is happening to my vines. Bees can steal all of the pollens before the evening. I had to cover a few flowers with bags and collect pollens later. Fortunately just a few flowers give me sufficient pollens to pollinate many flowers.
So what I have to do is go out in the afternoon before they start opening and tie a few flowers shut for pollen then go do them at night once the bees are in bed. Makes it a pain.
I think its the bees stealing the pollen, not the weather. They strip the pollen before the flowers even open. By 7PM they are getting in as soon as the flower starts to open and pollen is all gone within minutes.
You are overthinking this, which we can all do on occasion. The best thing to do is just let the new growth keep growing. Tie something around the plant and the post(I use strips of old cotton sheets or bath towels), and every few days tighten it up a bit. This will slowly pull the plant toward the post without breaking it. It’s always best to tie them in case the wind causes them to break. Hope this helps👍
Just wanted to share pics of my yellow undatus plant sold as "giant hawaii gold".
This is easily the fastest growing DF plant I've got out of around 30types.
It's starting to flower for the first time.
(https://i.postimg.cc/N5261Js6/20200709-191210.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N5261Js6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3kX9ssvH/2020-08-12-13-47-40.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kX9ssvH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/k64ctDhn/2020-08-12-13-46-44.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k64ctDhn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0zN2FwjG/download-20200814-120130.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zN2FwjG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bsbRn7L2/20200814-115319.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bsbRn7L2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GBbzdXFT/2020-08-14-16-27-06.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBbzdXFT)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3kX9ssvH/2020-08-12-13-47-40.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kX9ssvH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/k64ctDhn/2020-08-12-13-46-44.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k64ctDhn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0zN2FwjG/download-20200814-120130.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zN2FwjG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bsbRn7L2/20200814-115319.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bsbRn7L2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GBbzdXFT/2020-08-14-16-27-06.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBbzdXFT)
how was the Ax? I know it has pretty flowers but haven't seen much about the taste other than a couple people saying it's vaguely like watermelon.
How large do these need to be to flower? Here's the larger one I have (the pink-outside/white-inside grocery store kind). It's almost 6ft tall now. I know it needs a better support structure, I am gonna build one of those reinforced tomato cages that somebody posted here.That plant looks pretty mature so you should start seeing fruit soon. Get that support built as soon as you are able though, because branches that are hanging down tend to have more flowering than those growing up. You want the plant to have a defined height, then either 'top off' the climbing stems to force side branching, or (carefully) set up your support so that the long branches can start drooping back towards earth. Im not positive, but I think it has something to do with gravity and heavy chemical buildup of hormones/nutrients in the branches that start to convert the growth process over to the reproduction process. In most species, they flower from the branch tips back upwards towards the center.
(https://i.imgur.com/qPjiYSt.jpg)
So I got multiple varieties from Cal Poly and one other source but I find their info slightly controversial or possibly incorrect.None of those varieties are self pollinating for me in Australia.
I got:
American Beauty
Delight
Dark star
Edgar’s Baby
Physical Graffiti
Purple Haze
Shayna
How would you guys classify these as self pollination, sterile, etc?
I got very limited space and want to know what I’m trying to grow 3 years ahead of time. I will probably be only planting a few of the higher recommendations. I don’t mind giving away a few to friends that don’t make the cut. I’m already reconsidering Edgar’s Baby as it’s so thorny.
That plant looks pretty mature so you should start seeing fruit soon. Get that support built as soon as you are able though, because branches that are hanging down tend to have more flowering than those growing up. You want the plant to have a defined height, then either 'top off' the climbing stems to force side branching, or (carefully) set up your support so that the long branches can start drooping back towards earth. Im not positive, but I think it has something to do with gravity and heavy chemical buildup of hormones/nutrients in the branches that start to convert the growth process over to the reproduction process. In most species, they flower from the branch tips back upwards towards the center.
Also, once you have some downward growth, you can start shifting your fertilizer routine to a more 'bloom' inspired mix. But for now, you should focus on bulking up the size of your plant before you try and force it to flower. You basically have what could be described as a teenager in maturity of that plant. Its well on its way to maturity, but for now, its time to focus on what its going to be when its an adult.
It seems dragon fruit growers go through phases over a number of years just as a few friends and I have done. First you grow a bland red or white and think I can do this. Then you research and think wow I will get condor, american beauty, delight, physical graffiti etc and you do it. Maybe a few fancy new hybrids, a yellow and a desert king and wait. You dabble in say a Vietnamese giant white and get an occamponis. You realise the ones that aren't self fertile but are glamorous don't taste that much better if at all and realise the bland whites aren't worth it. You slash and burn and get a big Ecuadorian yellow, replace low productivity with high like a Colombian red, or sweet self fertile white selections and a few crosses a friend did that are self fertile and sweet. Then you wait again and think about the time you wasted.
Anyone know what variety Home Depot is selling currently? It’s supposedly red fruit and self pollinating. It’s tag says it’s by Sunburst oranges but when you go to the site it’s kinda vague.
Heres some giant yellow megalanthus seedlings that are flowering for the first time. They are from ecuador and peruvian fruit. Simon collected the seeds and germinated them and we grew them out here.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ctrt4gFP/20200821-094857.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ctrt4gFP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zymH8fKP/20200821-094908.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zymH8fKP)
Heres some giant yellow megalanthus seedlings that are flowering for the first time. They are from ecuador and peruvian fruit. Simon collected the seeds and germinated them and we grew them out here.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ctrt4gFP/20200821-094857.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ctrt4gFP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zymH8fKP/20200821-094908.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zymH8fKP)
Brad, is that the plant the cuttings you sent me came from?
Not an expert but it looks fine to me ! Should root
Hello Guys do you think this is ripe? first fruit in 2 years lol
(https://i.postimg.cc/Bj7N5DjN/Whats-App-Image-2020-09-13-at-6-57-49-PM.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Bj7N5DjN)
Looks like these palora seedling fruits are self pollinating. Its been a few weeks and try made it through a crazy heat wave here.
I'm excited for these megalanthus blooms but the fruit will probably not ripen properly given summer is almost over. Maybe next year it will bloom earlier.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BjTwBhLF/download-20200822-165652.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BjTwBhLF)
Hi guys. Do you think it is possible to graft several varieties on one dragonfruit? If this is possible, how many grafts can be done per plant?
As many as you want depending on the size of the rootstock, some varieties are more vigorous than others and will overgrow the slower ones. I have an old undatus in a big pot with 10 cvs grafted on it.It sounds promising! What is the best variety to use for a rootstock, or doesn't it matter? According to my observations, in my climate the best and fastest growing varieties are Cosmic Charlie and Delight. Can they be used as a rootstock?
As many as you want depending on the size of the rootstock, some varieties are more vigorous than others and will overgrow the slower ones. I have an old undatus in a big pot with 10 cvs grafted on it.It sounds promising! What is the best variety to use for a rootstock, or doesn't it matter? According to my observations, in my climate the best and fastest growing varieties are Cosmic Charlie and Delight. Can they be used as a rootstock?
Anyone know where to find some Desert King cuttings? Trying to round out my micro garden. I’m already on the waiting lists for growdragonfruit.com but not sure how often they replenish.
Go guysWhat the actual hell???
(https://i.postimg.cc/CZBQqHyZ/chrome-CHRFFE58e2.png) (https://postimg.cc/CZBQqHyZ)
Go guysWhat the actual hell???
(https://i.postimg.cc/CZBQqHyZ/chrome-CHRFFE58e2.png) (https://postimg.cc/CZBQqHyZ)
My friend grabbed some DK cuttings in Israel and grows them. He can't give away cuttings now. They may have been marketed a bit hard and over-exposed and he doesn't rank them as anywhere near his best varieties.
My friend grabbed some DK cuttings in Israel and grows them. He can't give away cuttings now. They may have been marketed a bit hard and over-exposed and he doesn't rank them as anywhere near his best varieties.
Go guysWhat the actual hell???
(https://i.postimg.cc/CZBQqHyZ/chrome-CHRFFE58e2.png) (https://postimg.cc/CZBQqHyZ)
360$ for a desert king seedling. What a joke. Ill have real desert king cuttings in spring for 15$
That's not a dessert king.Go guysWhat the actual hell???
(https://i.postimg.cc/CZBQqHyZ/chrome-CHRFFE58e2.png) (https://postimg.cc/CZBQqHyZ)
360$ for a desert king seedling. What a joke. Ill have real desert king cuttings in spring for 15$
Does dessert king actually worth it to grow in terms of flavor? aside from beign hard to get
Its a purple guatemalan type. They taste the best and easy to grow.
Thorn was pointing up in your picture.
So you were holding it right.
Has anyone had any luck taking a few cuttings and growing them on an oak tree trunk?
Would the shade be an issue or is it one of those deals where one person has great success and the next is a complete fail?
(https://i.postimg.cc/F7TSYS3d/09-D8-C958-1-AEA-4-BDD-8-BF0-6-C0-D76-CD5-C9-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7TSYS3d)I have seen such on several seedlings in the past...I discarded the plants so dont know if this would have been teir benefit compared to others that dont have them aerials. The more vigorous plants I think tend to make them in such young age ....
(https://i.postimg.cc/23FhfM5x/9-C060-F0-C-F48-D-4-E9-A-A50-B-A4-E462-BB46-FE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/23FhfM5x)
I’ve just noticed these aerial roots on a couple of very young seedlings. Only 2 out of 120 are showing signs of aerial root development. Has anyone had any experience with this and do these roots produce any benefits in relation to better growth rates when the aerial roots get into the surrounding soil?
Looks like these palora seedling fruits are self pollinating. Its been a few weeks and try made it through a crazy heat wave here.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sv5Ywy0F/20200913-193848.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sv5Ywy0F)
This one is a new one I just tried called "Hana". Its extra sweet and has a floral aftertaste. Its pretty good for a white fruit. Not my favorite but not bad.
(https://i.postimg.cc/CRNjp7gm/20200913-191110.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CRNjp7gm)
Looks like these palora seedling fruits are self pollinating. Its been a few weeks and try made it through a crazy heat wave here.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sv5Ywy0F/20200913-193848.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sv5Ywy0F)
This one is a new one I just tried called "Hana". Its extra sweet and has a floral aftertaste. Its pretty good for a white fruit. Not my favorite but not bad.
(https://i.postimg.cc/CRNjp7gm/20200913-191110.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CRNjp7gm)
are the white fleshed fruit less tasty than the red? Where I live I have had a few good red ones but lots are super bland.
Most of the time, flavor is about the sugar content of the fruit. Red, white, purple fruits all have specific undertone flavors, but its the sweetness that makes that fruit appealing. Think of the difference between lemons and lemonade. Low sugar white varieties tend to taste 'floral', where the very low sugar ones can taste off, like perfume, like eating the flowers themselves. There are a wide range of reds and purples though, many with unique flavors and tones. I grow a wide range of varieties, each with its own use. I eat some, juice others, cook with a few and ice cream for others. Like apples, its all about application and tastes.
Out of about 6 varieties that went thru 21F for about 8 hours the only ones that look great are Thompson Sugar 8-S and Frankie's Red. Don't those have the cold hardy yeller genes?i'm surprised that anything survived such a temp. Do those two varieties did not had any damage ??
This bed was a solid twisted mass, cleaned all the dead stuff out yesterday.
(https://i.postimg.cc/hfCWSFN6/Damaged-Stock-5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hfCWSFN6)
Sugar (Thompson 8-S) is doing very well. Took this shot last week, 2 months after the 21-22F temps.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Xpx58bDZ/Pitaya-Sugar-April15.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Xpx58bDZ)
Sugar (Thompson 8-S) is doing very well. Took this shot last week, 2 months after the 21-22F temps.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Xpx58bDZ/Pitaya-Sugar-April15.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Xpx58bDZ)
That is awesome Mark! Thanks for posting about this. I now have a new plant on my hit list!
This has been my favorite DF for the last 12 years. Even though the fruit are small, they make up for it on production and taste. Plus, they are self-fertile.
This has been my favorite DF for the last 12 years. Even though the fruit are small, they make up for it on production and taste. Plus, they are self-fertile.
Based on the required inputs and the meh quality of the fruit, I think growing pitaya is a waste of time.
This has been my favorite DF for the last 12 years. Even though the fruit are small, they make up for it on production and taste. Plus, they are self-fertile.
Based on the required inputs and the meh quality of the fruit, I think growing pitaya is a waste of time.
I would agree that the white flesh and pure reds I've tasted and grown were not worth it. The magenta's will have a place in my garden. If they are not worth it, why are you still growing them?
This has been my favorite DF for the last 12 years. Even though the fruit are small, they make up for it on production and taste. Plus, they are self-fertile.
Based on the required inputs and the meh quality of the fruit, I think growing pitaya is a waste of time.
blasphemy!
Seriously, there is good DF that is worth growing. It doens't seem to take much input either.
I'm sending you some DF this summer mark.
This has been my favorite DF for the last 12 years. Even though the fruit are small, they make up for it on production and taste. Plus, they are self-fertile.
Based on the required inputs and the meh quality of the fruit, I think growing pitaya is a waste of time.
blasphemy!
Seriously, there is good DF that is worth growing. It doens't seem to take much input either.
I'm sending you some DF this summer mark.
Thanks bud, I'll graciously take it and a few sticks of JB if you can spare it, PLEASE. Looks like my Pinkerton is only pushing rootstock shoots. Am thinking about putting GEM (which is growing like a weed) and/or JB on it in about a month.
When I said "inputs", you're right, it really isn't a pain to water occasionally and the Osmocote addition is a no brainer. The pain is when they are all over the place, crowding out my walking space next to a multi grafted key lime tree, growing 14' up the greenhouse wall!
June of last year.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BjrVd7H9/Pitaya-Bed-June3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BjrVd7H9)
Amazing results K Rime! What exactly is your feeding formula and schedule? I’m not doing nearly as well up here. We are having a super cold summer.
I’ve been putting off building like 6 trellises I need to build. Unfortunately they want like 90$ for a redwood 4x4. I’m having to do some thinking about how to build these damn things. Can’t use concrete (I’m doing planters) and I don’t want them to be ugly (some in front yard).
90$ for a redwood 4x4, lol
I'm making concrete ones for under 10$
(https://i.postimg.cc/XpckHDhs/D4-A5-EB9-E-7-ED1-469-C-B3-D4-C2-CB57910-E79.png) (https://postimg.cc/XpckHDhs)
Not a good time to buy lumber.
Hi All,
I have a purple haze that's budding like crazy, but I don't have another breed to pollinate it with. I didn't expect this because I grew the plant from a cutting two years ago, in a container, on my little balcony. Can anyone mail me some non-PH pollen? I can give you a tall cutting if you want to exchange.
Kurt
(https://i.postimg.cc/r0bNrBWy/ATT00001-5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0bNrBWy)
$90 for 4x4 is crazy. Fortunately I picked up some 4x4x12's of heart grade redwood before the consumer rape of wood. You can still get a 4x4x8 redwood post for $25, though. Probably cheaper if you went down to a lumber mill and got the 12' sections. You just need the rough common grade redwood.
With the common grade, add linseed oil to help preserve it while the df grows. Once the df grows around the redwood, you don't need to treat it again. The KEY is to concrete the post all the way up to the soil line. Use the 6" quikrete post forms to keep it going straight up.
Concrete and metal are great if you are going to have a permanent location because they are heavy! Definitely a two person job weighing nearly 200lbs.
I'm going to experiment in this row and bend the tops of the df without creating wood top.
(https://i.postimg.cc/WqTn5FwZ/PXL-20210707-174855774.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WqTn5FwZ)
Hi All,
I have a purple haze that's budding like crazy, but I don't have another breed to pollinate it with. I didn't expect this because I grew the plant from a cutting two years ago, in a container, on my little balcony. Can anyone mail me some non-PH pollen? I can give you a tall cutting if you want to exchange.
Kurt
(https://i.postimg.cc/r0bNrBWy/ATT00001-5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0bNrBWy)
$90 for 4x4 is crazy. Fortunately I picked up some 4x4x12's of heart grade redwood before the consumer rape of wood. You can still get a 4x4x8 redwood post for $25, though. Probably cheaper if you went down to a lumber mill and got the 12' sections. You just need the rough common grade redwood.
With the common grade, add linseed oil to help preserve it while the df grows. Once the df grows around the redwood, you don't need to treat it again. The KEY is to concrete the post all the way up to the soil line. Use the 6" quikrete post forms to keep it going straight up.
Concrete and metal are great if you are going to have a permanent location because they are heavy! Definitely a two person job weighing nearly 200lbs.
I'm going to experiment in this row and bend the tops of the df without creating wood top.
(https://i.postimg.cc/WqTn5FwZ/PXL-20210707-174855774.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WqTn5FwZ)
Hi John,
I’ve found beeswax and jojoba oil work really well for protecting wood too, and I swear the bees are attracted to it ;) I used it on my raised beds and it works great, you can see the water bead off. You just melt the bees wax down and then add the jojoba oil, you need to use clean beeswax, if it’s dirty it doesn’t work well. It’s also great for your skin, no gloves needed!
How much time does it add melting wax or rubbing oil into them? Aluminum is still the lightest weight post. Cheaper than redwood too by far! You could just use screws to fasten a wood top and have no rotting underground. You don't even need to weld anything if you don't know how.
Does anyone know what pollinates Halleys Comet?
I hate to make it sound like its the same answer every time, but the S8 Sugar Dragon variety blooms early, before almost anything else that ive seen, fruits alot in most reasonable climates, grows fast, sets cuttings solidly, and is one of the tastiest varieties out there. It produces a ton of pollen, is self fertile and with a good breeze to shake the plant, is usually self pollinating. The only issue with it is the size of the fruit, averaging the size of a goose's egg. Given the option, i would change out a few more of my more random plants with S8. I encourage everyone to grow at least a small plant of S8 to help support their collections or a few large plants for eating and cooking. I think of it as the 'naval orange or 'Haas avacado' of dragon fruits, a superior variety and a very great achievement for its creator, Paul Thomson.
Has anyone tried the “Zamarano” variety? What’s the flavor like? Is it worth growing? ThanksZamorano is one of my least favourite varieties. It has a weird flavour. ‘Peppery’ is the only way I can describe it. More savoury than sweet in my experience 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Does anyone know how long pollen is viable for? I have a few DF varieties, but they rarely flower on the same night. I’ve had some success with self fertilization, but nearly 100% success with better tasting and larger fruit when I happen to be able to cross them. I’d like to be able to collect pollen when any flower so I can cross them more frequently.
Does anyone know how long pollen is viable for? I have a few DF varieties, but they rarely flower on the same night. I’ve had some success with self fertilization, but nearly 100% success with better tasting and larger fruit when I happen to be able to cross them. I’d like to be able to collect pollen when any flower so I can cross them more frequently.
Has anyone tried the “Zamarano” variety? What’s the flavor like? Is it worth growing? ThanksZamorano is one of my least favourite varieties. It has a weird flavour. ‘Peppery’ is the only way I can describe it. More savoury than sweet in my experience 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Does anyone know how long pollen is viable for? I have a few DF varieties, but they rarely flower on the same night. I’ve had some success with self fertilization, but nearly 100% success with better tasting and larger fruit when I happen to be able to cross them. I’d like to be able to collect pollen when any flower so I can cross them more frequently.
I have one growing I think, I bought it as a Zamorano ... we'll see. Here's a video on Zamorano tasting. ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDaoZ_6bDo8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDaoZ_6bDo8)
Has anyone tried the “Zamarano” variety? What’s the flavor like? Is it worth growing? ThanksZamorano is one of my least favourite varieties. It has a weird flavour. ‘Peppery’ is the only way I can describe it. More savoury than sweet in my experience 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Yeah, I would say it has an earthy, beet flavour. Been growing it for a few years now, and I can’t say that it gets better unfortunately 😕Has anyone tried the “Zamarano” variety? What’s the flavor like? Is it worth growing? ThanksZamorano is one of my least favourite varieties. It has a weird flavour. ‘Peppery’ is the only way I can describe it. More savoury than sweet in my experience 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Thanks Rannman. I also read somewhere it taste like a beet, ughh...What’s your favorite variety then?
I tried the rooting in water method last summer. Worked great, and rooted cuttings survive for weeks in water.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fJQhPVKD/420884-F2-1503-4176-B936-219-A3-A5-FE549.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fJQhPVKD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CzCVpwPD/B3-CAAF32-2-F10-4824-A6-A1-749-C14959-D10.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CzCVpwPD)
Cut DF
Expose 1/2” of center wood.
Soak in 1” of water.
Roots in 18 days.
No need to dry the cuts.
Newb at DF, I have purple haze, dark star, and American beauty. Should I get a variety that is a prolific pollinator to help pollinate the others? Or not necessary
Newb at DF, I have purple haze, dark star, and American beauty. Should I get a variety that is a prolific pollinator to help pollinate the others? Or not necessary
I have two mature, fruiting dragonfruit in 15 gallon pots, but I imagine you can get by with a 5 or 7 gal.
If your DF needs cross pollination you need to find a variety that flower at the same time, in your climate.
You can’t plant random varieties.
Not easy.
Hello All,Any variety that is not the same as yours will be a good pollinator for your dragonfruit, although pink flowering varieties don’t seem to produce a lot of pollen in my experience. Sugar Dragon is generally a good one to have as it usually starts flowering early, produces plenty of flowers and plenty of pollen and generally flowers later than most other varieties, so you can collect and store the pollen until you need to use it. The hard part is getting different varieties to flower at the same time, so storing pollen is a pretty good idea.
I am looking for some suggested Good cross pollinators for my unnamed dragon fruit. I am planning to build 2 trellises of known varieties and am hoping they will also pollinate my unknown variety (it is not self fertile). I have heard good reviews about the sugar dragon S8, but what other 2-3 types are tasty and might bloom in a similar range. I was thinking to have maybe one reddish flesh, a yellow flesh, a white flesh and maybe a purple.
The unknown type
(https://i.postimg.cc/JsRVMWLD/IMG-3817.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JsRVMWLD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QFSLMn86/IMG-7569.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFSLMn86)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mhksJTpM/894-AEDD3-5642-4316-B1-A9-D0-EE8-D795128.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mhksJTpM)
Saw this at a supermarket in Folsom, CA today.
Buy a fruit, get a free cutting.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mhksJTpM/894-AEDD3-5642-4316-B1-A9-D0-EE8-D795128.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mhksJTpM)
Saw this at a supermarket in Folsom, CA today.
Buy a fruit, get a free cutting.
Got my own Dragon Fruit alley started! 2” pvc on rebar into 100 gallon stock tanks. It’s a little tight but it’s what I got to work with. Added a little bench to hold my 3 gallon pots. It’s definitely a few more bucks but I like the external trellis design as no wood is inside the dirt. I didn’t want to go traditional concrete posts as I have small children that hang on everything and I didn’t want one toppling over. This planter is all self fertile. I got one post each of Palora, Frankie’s red, sugar dragon, natural mystic, Condor and American beauty.
(https://i.postimg.cc/18FYCRGj/77559-FA6-F71-D-4-E34-A865-B131-A44-D1-EAA.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/18FYCRGj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XZ01TMx7/98602-E9-F-3117-4-D7-B-96-FA-010-D80-D8110-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XZ01TMx7)
Looking for some good pruners to cut the fruit off the vine with, I used regular single blade pruners last year but they really damaged the vine.
Does anyone have any good suggestions on pruners? Or how to get the fruit off without damaging the vine too bad?
These look good but they’re around $80 with shipping, was hoping to spend less $$ https://www.sfequip.com/vesco-professional-double-cut-pruning-shear/?gclid=CjwKCAjwpMOIBhBAEiwAy5M6YDhT5JB97g1u2hQhrfoJ-AZxt2g25zDJ9byQbgXaCg_S_OAEukoSyhoCJXEQAvD_BwE (https://www.sfequip.com/vesco-professional-double-cut-pruning-shear/?gclid=CjwKCAjwpMOIBhBAEiwAy5M6YDhT5JB97g1u2hQhrfoJ-AZxt2g25zDJ9byQbgXaCg_S_OAEukoSyhoCJXEQAvD_BwE)
Thanks
if you guys want to use water soluables try jacks 20-20-20
Not enough water or roots for how much is above ground. If its in a pot, put a tray under the pot and let it sit in an inch of water when its super hot.
You could get them on a drip system that runs everyday. Even a lot of my in ground stuff gets dried out, its just the dry heat we have in CA. I try and water 2 or 3 times a week but if I had it automated it would be every 2 days for a quick squirt.
Another problem is the organic matter in the potting mix eventually turns to dust and the rootsystem of a dragonfruit plant is like a fine sponge that just tuens into a dense mat that chokes itself out.
Inorganics like sand, dg, volcanic rocks or expanded clays that dont break down and also have water holding capacity and breathability can help in the long run.
Hi all. I am a newbie to DF. I got a cutting 3 years ago of unknown variety and finally I got a first flower last night. I have to say it is just gorgeous ! I think that unfortunately it is self-sterile. What do you think?
(https://i.postimg.cc/sQQ7H6tV/Dragon-Fruit-flower.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQQ7H6tV)
Yes I hand pollinated it. I read somewhere that the self-fertile varieties have male part of the flower very close to the female part so the pollen will brush up against and dust the female part however the flower I got has a stigma high up while the anthers are so much lower down. Is it possible to have it pollinated despite of it ? or the pollen is just sterile and hand pollination is not going to work?
Also one thing I've been doing this year (and seeing fantastic fruit set I think because of it) is that after I pollinate the stigma with my #2 paintbrush, I squish the stigma between my thumb and index finger lightly - this I think helps set the pollen where it needs to go and also it locks it in so that bees can't steal it in the morning. Saw an older fella in the Philippines do this on his farm, he actually collected pollen by hand and didn't even use a paintbrush and he was surrounded by fruit sets so figured there had to be something to it.
Brad, have you ever tried this?
Yes I hand pollinated it. I read somewhere that the self-fertile varieties have male part of the flower very close to the female part so the pollen will brush up against and dust the female part however the flower I got has a stigma high up while the anthers are so much lower down. Is it possible to have it pollinated despite of it ? or the pollen is just sterile and hand pollination is not going to work?
There is "self-pollinating" in that the stigma is very close to the anthers and it will probably brush up against enough anthers to set fruit with no human or animal interaction. I have had this with my S8 plant where I didn't touch the flower and it set fruit anyways.
There is "self-fertile" that, regardless of the structure of anther/stigma being close or far to each other, if you get pollen into the stigma, it will set fruit. If that happens by bees, bats, or by hand, it will set.
Then finally there is "self-infertile" where, regardless of if pollen enters the tube by hand or otherwise, it will not set a fruit and you need a different cultivar. If you have two self-infertile varieties and use one pollen on the other, it will set fruit, but I personally find I get way better fruit set using self fertile varieties of pollen. This may just be luck.
You won't know till you try, like I said.
Hi all. I am a newbie to DF. I got a cutting 3 years ago of unknown variety and finally I got a first flower last night. I have to say it is just gorgeous ! I think that unfortunately it is self-sterile. What do you think?Your plant looks like a white variety, possibly a light pink, based on the plant's thorn structure and the lack of any coloring in the flower. If you could add pictures of some of the older branches it might help narrow down the identification, although like other said, a specific named ID might not be possible without fruit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sQQ7H6tV/Dragon-Fruit-flower.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQQ7H6tV)
Hi JirkaH. The thin growth is due to lack of sunlight. You mentioned flowers, but your plant is far too young to produce flowers. I’m not sure what the weather/season is like in the Netherlands, but sunlight is a dragonfruits best friend. Without enough sunlight, plant growth will be lacking and flowers won’t ever develop. Did you grow your plant from seed?
Skin issues are a standard problem with dragonfruit. They all get it occasionally, but lack of sunlight doesn’t help with those problems unfortunately.
Sunlight and heat are the best things for healthy dragonfruit growth
Hi JirkaH. The thin growth is due to lack of sunlight. You mentioned flowers, but your plant is far too young to produce flowers. I’m not sure what the weather/season is like in the Netherlands, but sunlight is a dragonfruits best friend. Without enough sunlight, plant growth will be lacking and flowers won’t ever develop. Did you grow your plant from seed?
Skin issues are a standard problem with dragonfruit. They all get it occasionally, but lack of sunlight doesn’t help with those problems unfortunately.
Sunlight and heat are the best things for healthy dragonfruit growth
Hi, thank you so much for your reply.
I grew this from seeds. Is this a reason why there are no flowers yet, or is it because its still young (approx 1year).
I noticed the dry part started appearing when the plant was exposed to too much sunlight. Which is why I remove it from direct sun for some time.
After your comment I put it back immediately.
How often do you recommend to water it? Its an indoor plant.
Do you also have any other recommendations regarding taking care (fertilizing, vitamins, antipests,...)
Thanks a lot.
Aluminum is lighter than wood and concrete!! Or you just tig weld some aluminum and it's good for the next 2000 growing seasons and not having to fix wood or look at a failed design saves you money and ego. At least when we get a huge hurricane my d.f. posts will be there still 😆.
(https://i.postimg.cc/tZ54cc9f/20210704-074250.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZ54cc9f)
Question - is Purple Haze Self Fertile or Self Sterile? I'm reading conflicting information and if it's Self Sterile, I'd like to understand what other dragonfruit variety would complement it to pollinate it? I most likely wouldn't hand pollinate so would need something that flowers at that same time. Hopefully this is all a moot point and it's Self Fertile.
I know it’s not our season over here in Oz, but it’s been a while since I scrolled through all the posts. Had a solid season here in South east Queensland with great weather and plenty of rain. Unfortunately the rain kept coming and we’ve had nearly 2 years worth of rain since Christmas.
Plenty of fruit as a result but the parrots have acquired a taste for them and as a result, we lost probably 95% of our crop, with the birds eating most fruits before they ripened.
We did have a couple of wins though with some very impressive hybrids.
(https://i.postimg.cc/212GdbD3/19-C53-EE6-B45-D-41-C6-9430-1134-A829-B20-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/212GdbD3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sQZJRTZZ/87-DFFA90-995-F-432-E-85-B0-78-D7-DA84-EA88.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQZJRTZZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nMB1RwJy/8-B3-F44-DF-4-D4-F-42-F4-985-C-6-E4-C1-BD30-C6-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nMB1RwJy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/F7vV2gF7/A2960861-F366-44-A4-846-E-CB975-B21-D19-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7vV2gF7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ppBJxhyk/DFC3-BD3-B-C60-B-4198-B8-FA-084-D229-AFC84.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ppBJxhyk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/212GdbD3/19-C53-EE6-B45-D-41-C6-9430-1134-A829-B20-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/212GdbD3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ctyB1fQk/6-EAC060-A-5-E8-A-456-E-B406-C0382-A29611-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ctyB1fQk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nMB1RwJy/8-B3-F44-DF-4-D4-F-42-F4-985-C-6-E4-C1-BD30-C6-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nMB1RwJy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/F7vV2gF7/A2960861-F366-44-A4-846-E-CB975-B21-D19-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7vV2gF7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ppBJxhyk/DFC3-BD3-B-C60-B-4198-B8-FA-084-D229-AFC84.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ppBJxhyk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Xr7m00NG/397-F489-E-1-C15-4-C65-AF07-8563-E4-F63-B55.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Xr7m00NG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/56mTGtJW/784-D609-E-7-C83-4-AB3-94-DE-90-B4-E32-AE282.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/56mTGtJW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mPXqL6hd/7-DFF17-A2-8494-4-ABD-9701-76-D3-BB8-F4-E73.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mPXqL6hd)
I know it’s not our season over here in Oz, but it’s been a while since I scrolled through all the posts. Had a solid season here in South east Queensland with great weather and plenty of rain. Unfortunately the rain kept coming and we’ve had nearly 2 years worth of rain since Christmas.
Plenty of fruit as a result but the parrots have acquired a taste for them and as a result, we lost probably 95% of our crop, with the birds eating most fruits before they ripened.
We did have a couple of wins though with some very impressive hybrids.
Can someone please recommend me a self pollinating dragon that tastes good? I’ve had some beautiful purple flesh ones that taste like nothing.
Can these be grown in a 25 gallon pot with a trellis?
Thanks so much!!!
Has anyone had luck growing the Palora variety in Florida? I see a lot of ebay sellers from California selling Palora cuttings, and it makes me wonder if this variety is more challenging to grow in Florida.
Brad
(https://i.postimg.cc/xkdj7yJC/Screenshot-2022-06-09-164013.png) (https://postimg.cc/xkdj7yJC)
That's good to hear! What part of FL are you in? Do you have any cuttings I could purchase?
Thanks
Brad
Can someone please recommend me a self pollinating dragon that tastes good? I’ve had some beautiful purple flesh ones that taste like nothing.
Can these be grown in a 25 gallon pot with a trellis?
Thanks so much!!!
S8 is probably the best overall cultivar, in my opinion. It is self fertile and in my case often self pollinating (maybe the bees do it I don't know). It seems very resistant to disease and overall is the lowest effort for me.
For the best flavor, wait til it's getting really loose and wiggly on the arm and then give it 5-7 days no water. It'll really sweeten up.
I ripped out most of my dragonfruit plants and just kept S8 and american beauty. I like dark star and a couple others but they dont self pollinate. S8 and american beauty take zero effort.
I ripped out most of my dragonfruit plants and just kept S8 and american beauty. I like dark star and a couple others but they dont self pollinate. S8 and american beauty take zero effort.
This is disappointing news. I grabbed a couple dark star vines last year after tasting a couple. No fruit yet but I've been juicing them with extra N. The guy said they were self fertile but maybe they were being cross pollinated by his other varieties.
I ripped out most of my dragonfruit plants and just kept S8 and american beauty. I like dark star and a couple others but they dont self pollinate. S8 and american beauty take zero effort.
This is disappointing news. I grabbed a couple dark star vines last year after tasting a couple. No fruit yet but I've been juicing them with extra N. The guy said they were self fertile but maybe they were being cross pollinated by his other varieties.
If it is legitimate dark star, it is not self fertile. Dark star is one of my favorite for flavor but it's not super easy for successful pollination. One of the harder ones for me. If I had more S8 pollen which is the super juice, maybe I'd have an easier time. I'm probably going to tear out my Natural mystic and replace it with S8. It has not revived since winter where everything else has. I liked the fruit a lot and self fertile but it seems dead.
I have a spot in my backyard which is in the shade from November to late February/early March. The rest of the year, it has about 6+ hours of sun.
Would a dragon fruit work there?
My natural mystic is also fairly dormant. Do we not have enough heat? Everything else is growing great. Was thinking of pulling my NM as well.
Hey all! I'm growing a Haley's Comet, Delight, and American Beauty here in Pinellas Co, FL. First year getting blooms so far- the first round of blooms is complete. I hand pollinated everything and most nights I was able to cross pollinate.
So far American Beauty is the overwhelming winner. It looks like it set fruit on virtually every bloom. From studying the blooms I also feel like American Beauty is the only one that I'd say is self pollinating. I'm not sure a single fruit set.on Delight or HC.
From what I've read, a lot of other folks have had great luck with American Beauty as well. How about HC and Delight? It seems like I've already done about all I can do short of cross pollinating with a better (?) pollinator that I don't have.
I am happy to at least have some fruit growing in the garden. The only slight bummer is Delight, because ignoring the fruit production issue, this is a much stronger grower for me than the other two and it is also already putting out a.second round of buds. I will keep hand pollinating, maybe success will improve in round two.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Xr3MN9WT/IMG-0067-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Xr3MN9WT)
Question on hand pollination of my Asunta 3 dragon fruit flowers.
This is from a cutting from Brad, it is about 2-1/2 years old and it's the first time it has flowers.
The DF plant has 3 flowers, I didn't hand pollinate the first flower, can you tell from this photo if it will set fruit or drop the flower?
I just took some photos tonight at 8pm, this is the second flower that is blooming. Does it look ready to hand pollinate or should I wait until moring?
Thanks.
I did pick my first yellow DF fruit yesterday, it was small (Home Depot plant) but it tasted sweet.
Is Vietnamese White prone to fruit drop?
I live in SE FL (near the Everglades) and have 2 Vietnamese white on trellises and fruit drop/flower pollination is about 50%. It can get a bit of rust in cool, rainy weather, too, but it's manageable to to treat with a bit of copper spray.
I have a cutting of Sugar Dragon and Neon that I am debating replacing them with. Should I just bite the bullet and replace the 2 above with them?
Kalan,
Thanks so much for responding! It's great to find someone living in the same area, who is growing in the same conditions. :)
I think I meant flower drop. I think you are right, that the rainfall caused the flower drop; I think it rained around the time the flowers opened. I haven't had much issues with fruit drop, but it seems bugs can get into the fruit during the summer.
I may just go ahead and take one VW out and replace it with the SD and Neon cuttings. Neon is very similar to SD.
Do you have issues with your DF yellowing in the summer? I have mine planted in the ground, which I know probably keeps a bit more moisture than what is ideal.
Wondering if Delight and Delight 3-S are the same? It looks like they're hybrid plants crossed from the same parent plant. I've come across several websites saying they're likely the same (pic attached), however the site I bought my 3-S from says it's self sterile and every other Delight I've found is self fertile. I'm trying to only keep self fertile varieties, so I'm very curious if this one will need cross pollination or not. It's from Wallace Ranch farm.From what I have read the original "Delight" was self sterile. I would trust Wallace Ranch, Neva and Julio work hard to know what they are doing. Julio has many years of experience to back that up. The "Delight" plants that I have all seem to be self sterile but I have so many so close together that it would be difficult to be sure. I pollinate everything. There is another called "Maria Rosa" that is similar, but I don't believe that one is self fertile either.
Great topic nullzero! I'm currently growing Halley's Comet, American Beauty, Vietnamese White, Yellow DF, Frankies Red and something I call Simon's Red. The Vietnamese White is the easiest to grow and fruit for me. I have the most difficult time growing the Yellow DF outdoors but the easiest time growing it indoors under T5 lighting. My yellow DF grew 3 branches, each that grew about 2 feet in about a month and a half in the winter indoors.
I just took cuttings from each plant and I'm going to start new with a planned out set up. Previously, I just stuck them in a pot and let them climb everywhere. They grew and fruited well this way but it was sloppy looking. This time, I'm going to try growing them in smart pots and grow them as a DF tree like they do in Vietnam.
I grow my DF in full sun but they do get burned in the summertime. This summer, I may throw some shade cloth over them during the hottest part of the summer.
Simon
Simon,
What do you suppose is the reason that the yellow DF is more difficult to grow? I have a yellow DF branch, I stuck it into the ground next to the others, it just withered and died, while the others grew normally. Why does it grow better indoor? Humidity?
That is a bit strange as Physical Graffiti and Purple haze are two that I don't put in my greenhouse and they do pretty well with just a sheet during the freezes. Yes American Beauty should also be more resistant to cold stress, but still needs some protection.i grow few yellow dragon fruit from seeds ,,, will they bear true to type ,,
Very much doubt it, from my experience, yellow dragon fruit seedlings produce decent quality fruit.
Mine were sweet but a little smaller than a selected variety.
I was excited to see a lot of blooms early this year....then May gray hit hard here in San Diego. Very cool weather for the past couple of weeks. About 30% of the blooms are dying because the lack of heat/sun. For anyone that is within 10 miles of the coast in Socal, are you experiencing the same?
(https://i.postimg.cc/rdkjCCN2/PXL-20230530-170526893-PORTRAIT.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rdkjCCN2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sMSKh0SJ/PXL-20230530-170544159-PORTRAIT.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sMSKh0SJ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rKDf8pw3/PXL-20230530-170559627-PORTRAIT.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKDf8pw3)
Yes I'm up on the coast, same area. My largest set out a 1st bud ever but aborted probably because of the cool grey weather all month. I see a couple more buds popping up so I am hoping the sun gets out enough to make those hold.Thanks. Yeah, we usually get afternoon sun this time of year but it was still 65 and cloudy all day today! I'll need to add some more fertilizer once it heats up again.
I dosed all my plants with chicken manure and then a bunch of vigoro slow release and they are blasting off like crazy and have just one lone flower bud. It's ok, I really need to rebuild my canopy after losing around 30% of it to snow this winter. I will hit them hard with strong flowering nutrient after they put on some weight again.
Instead, I doubled up on Dr. Earth Bud and bloom since it contains a bit of nitrogen.
essentially killing about 40% of the vines
Yes, my pattern is similar. I still have a bunch of hydro nutes I use starting around July.QuoteInstead, I doubled up on Dr. Earth Bud and bloom since it contains a bit of nitrogen.
I kind of go wacko with fertilizer for DF as they're pretty much impossible to burn. Last year there was so much slow release in some pots you couldn't see soil anymore. The chicken manure seems to do really positive things overall so I start the season with that and then move onto synthetics. Once it's warm, I'll switch to KoolBloom which is 2-45-28 and I'll use about 1tbsp per gallon and water that in from watering cans. There's not much point in throwing P at them till it's consistently hot, but they seem to grow vegetatively nicely when cooler and have lots of food.Quoteessentially killing about 40% of the vines
Was this due to our cold and rainy winter? Or you just hacked them back for space / weight concerns?
I have a Cosmic Charlie that must be nearing 1000lb on the trellis and I know it's going to break it one day.
That's a beast of a pitaya k-rimes! Hope you get rewarded heavily this season.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Q9zRH0pC/DC253-AAF-79-EF-4439-BBC3-8-BF6-A52-B285-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q9zRH0pC)
Had to reinforce this stand. It was about to collapse!
I am new to growing dragon fruit and the forum. I grew a plant from seed last year - so this is year two. Three or four months ago I went from a one gallon pot to a long term home and my plant seemed to love the change and grew faster than expected. He is 6” from the top so I need to build the trellis so he can hang down. The challenge is the base of the plant is still very small and the top of the plant is thicker but not like ones I have seen on-line. Once it drops upside down will it keep grown this fast?First thing i would do is rotate/turn the pot 90 degrees clockwise so your stem is fully facing the window. Skinny stems on my plants tend to be caused by a lack of sunlight, which your plant seems to be finally compensating for in the thickening new growth. I know it makes it less fun to look at, but think of it as any other young life; until its ready to be out in the world, you have to give it what it needs, not what you want it to have. As for that second stem, I'd personally leave it for now. Its not taking up enough energy to really bother the main stem, and if something goes wrong, until its size becomes a real issue, you have a backup. Also, if it matures enough, you can use that as a cutting to create a second plant in the future.
Also, should I cut off the second growth to give the main plant more energy?
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Kevin don't say that about Atsuna, my plant has lots of flower starting now as well. I have never tasted a fruit yet, but I was hoping it tasted good. I have the Atsuna 3, is that what you tasted?
My season is just getting started here, and it's off with a bang. Never seen any of my DF perform like that Asunta is with a bud on every node, a shame the fruit is not that great... But it'll be pretty with the purple flowers.
Cosmic charlie, Purple Haze, and Dark Star are also all firing up.
This year is my first year with bees on the property and I don't really know how I will manage to pollinate with them "robbing" the pollen. My concern is that they'll be fully loaded off one flower and not cross-pollinate the self sterile varieties.
(https://i.postimg.cc/686ZjRpf/435-C0-F37-E9-E3-433-A-ABD1-3-B52-B8-FE9-F1-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/686ZjRpf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1gfqPQ6g/459-EAE88-3291-4160-A6-F4-EF60152011-FB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1gfqPQ6g)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QFSQhmyz/5-AB56-E4-E-8-AFF-4-F75-98-E4-6-D50-EAB9-EF83.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFSQhmyz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DSCXtZWk/AA94-F1-CF-DF6-B-48-C3-8086-275-BAC8-CBAF9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DSCXtZWk)
I'll likely just graft everything over to S8 since fruit set is so consistent and I'm lazy
What time of day, or when can you tell it is good to take the pollen. I haven't had much luck trying to hand pollinate the Astuna3.
What time of day, or when can you tell it is good to take the pollen. I haven't had much luck trying to hand pollinate the Astuna3.
What time of day, or when can you tell it is good to take the pollen. I haven't had much luck trying to hand-pollinate the Astuna3.
ok, good info. Kevin, I will put an organza bag on the flowers since it looks like it may open any day on some.
Brad, yes, this year I have the yellow DF from you that is starting to have 3 flowers, the Atsuna3 has 5 large flowers ready to open any day now. The yellow flowers looks to be another week before they will open. I don't have any other DF with flowers right now. I have one large DF with red flesh growing along my entire back block wall, but it doesn't have any flowers, I wonder what is wrong with it. Do I need to fertilize it? My citrus and loquat trees in the same area are growing great.
I will need to buy only self pollinating DF in the future, or give up on them.
Is it just me or is the “stem” on this fruit abnormally long?
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Kevin, in the previous post of pictures the purple flower var. was that Asunta? All your D.F. varieties have turned into a nice hedge 8)
I'm assuming the baby cerrado is a yellow type? They are sooooo sweet 8)
Spaugh which varieties would you recommend for someone out of the growing zone? I just want fresh dragonfruit!
The good thing about megalanthus, at least here, is that it's ready in spring when the rest of them are still in vegetative mode. Flavor-wise, as with everything else, it depends on personal preference. megalanthus is my wife's favorite, it tastes like a big white grape. For me, a good CC or PG is hard to beat. S8 is very good too but this year some of them had like a dish soap aftertaste (also present and more marked in Pink Panther) which was kind of weird, don't know if it had to be with the fertilizing regime or what happened, previous years S8 was the best for most of us.
I would call it floral rather than dish soap flavor. Some people percive cilantro as dish soap flavor also and find it bad. It maybe the same kind of thing. Some people just dont like that flavor. For me, i think it makes the s8 taste good. The only thing is there no acid in the S8. Its floral and sweet but lqcking acid.