Tip of the Day

[FlyingFoxFruits]

when I can, I'm going to post a "Tip of the Day".

I'm going to encourage others who have interesting, valuable, or important tips  to post them here periodically, to share with the world.

to get things started, the first tip I have to offer is the following:

Eugenia uniflora seems to be a compatible rootstock for E. pyriformis.

I have yet to confirm this, but my grafts are looking great so far,  and I've heard from reliable sources that they are compatible.

I think E neonitida might actually be compatible with uniflora...contrary to my observations of failed graft attempts.  It might be worth trying again.


what's your tip of the day?

[roboto212]

when you go to plant a tree, always remember the green end goes up

[Hollywood]

Black sapote seedlings can use help- gently take the seed head off the sprout several days after it comes up. Otherwise, the whole thing can fall off.

[bangkok]

Spray your flushing pomelo or citrus tree's with a hard ray of water every day and those caterpillars and other insects have no chance to eat the new leaves. Spray upside down because the eggs will hang under the leaves.

[LEOOEL]

Don't eat pesticides, eat organic fruit and vegetables and live to 200. 

[Jackfruitwhisperer69]

Never buy trees that are seriously root bound or trees that are in very bad shape...the recovery and establishment of these trees will take longer  And always look for the union of the graft!

[FlyingFoxFruits]

thanks to everyone for contributing!

[FlyingFoxFruits]

Tip of the Day,

some jaboticaba varieties can be eaten early, when full sized, but still green.  Such varieties include, but aren't limited to, Myrciaria trunciflora, and Myrciaria cauliflora (red jabo especially), I assume M. phitrantha and M. aureana exhibit this feature to some degree...although I've never eaten one.

This can mean the difference between having fruits to eat, or a pile of scraps to look at, left by rats.  I've learned to always harvest the fruits early, especially if you want to make sure to get all of the seeds.  Even though animals usually leave them behind, they're much harder to recover, once they've been removed from the fruits.

[nullzero]

When fertilizing plants, its always better to go with less fertilizer on a more frequent schedule rather then more on a less frequent schedule.

[HIfarm]

I noticed a string on kepel (Stelechocarpus burahol) a while back but it was WAY late to comment on that.  If anyone is starting kepel, be sure to give them PLENTY of time to sprout.  I got my seed from Oscar at Fruitlovers so it was fresh.  It took 10 months for the first couple to break the surface.  Then nothing for 2 months.  Then 2 more.  Then, again, another lag and then by about 15 months the rest germinated.  I think I ordered 25 seed and about 1/2 germinated.  So, don't pitch those ungerminated kepel seeds too quickly.

John

[natsgarden123]

The enemy of good is better

don't overwater, overfertilize or over-do-it with anything

[fruitlovers]

When fertilizing plants, its always better to go with less fertilizer on a more frequent schedule rather then more on a less frequent schedule.

This is very good advice! The way i put it to people is to not subject plants to a feast or famine treatment, but to feed them regularly, like they feed themselves.
Some plants in particular need constant feeding: like mangosteens and bananas.

[Jen]

Don't let your puppy/young dog watch when planting a tree. They may come along later and decide to "help" and dig everything up. I lost a carambola and an acai palm this way :-(

[Pancrazio]

If rain and sun fade the permanent markers writings on the tags on your plant, then use a pencil. Sun doesn't affect graphite, and if the pencil was hard enough, it isn't easily washed away either. 

[fyliu]

If rain and sun fade the permanent markers writings on the tags on your plant, then use a pencil. Sun doesn't affect graphite, and if the pencil was hard enough, it isn't easily washed away either.

Very good. I switced to silver markers myself. I guess silver is actually a metal rather than a pigment.

[bangkok]

Don't let your puppy/young dog watch when planting a tree. They may come along later and decide to "help" and dig everything up. I lost a carambola and an acai palm this way :-(

Last week my passionfruit-seedlings were dug out by some animal. When i replanted them i found a big sharkbone in the pot (which a neighbour likes to feed all dogs in the street). Our dog (which is here temporary) looked very guilty when i asked her who did that.

So always protect small plants against animals is what i do from now on.

[LEOOEL]

To have fruit year round from your fruit trees, be mindful of how much space you have and choose your fruit tree cultivars wisely.

[bsbullie]

If rain and sun fade the permanent markers writings on the tags on your plant, then use a pencil. Sun doesn't affect graphite, and if the pencil was hard enough, it isn't easily washed away either.

I would not recommend pencil as pencil naturally fades over time and would be a very poor choice to use in making long term tags for plant records, or any other records for that matter.

[fruitlovers]

#2 pencil is one of the longest lasting markers for plastic pot labels in our climate. It outlasts most markers. The pencil does not fade for over a year, despite our high UV rate. What happens is that lichens and moss will start growing on the plastic labels after about one year and make the pencil markings hard to read.

OK, here is my Tip of the Day. Use #2 pencil, but push the plastic label into the pot soil. Only leave 1/2 inch sticking out so you can see it if you want to pull out to read. The pencil markings will last a very very long time if not hit by UV and the mold, moss, and lichen, will not grow on the label when it's in the soil. (This took me 20 years to figure out!)

You can also leave the label above soil level and mark both sides of the label. The side that the sun hits will fade a lot more rapidly than the back side.

Another very good marker is the China wax markers. With these you can write right on the pot...no need to buy labels. You can buy these at art supply stores.

[bsbullie]

#2 pencil is one of the longest lasting markers for plastic pot labels in our climate. It outlasts most markers. The pencil does not fade for over a year, despite our high UV rate. What happens is that lichens and moss will start growing on the plastic labels after about one year and make the pencil markings hard to read.

OK, here is my Tip of the Day. Use #2 pencil, but push the plastic label into the pot soil. Only leave 1/2 inch sticking out so you can see it if you want to pull out to read. The pencil markings will last a very very long time if not hit by UV and the mold, moss, and lichen, will not grow on the label when it's in the soil. (This took me 20 years to figure out!)

You can also leave the label above soil level and mark both sides of the label. The side that the sun hits will fade a lot more rapidly than the back side.

Another very good marker is the China wax markers. With these you can write right on the pot...no need to buy labels. You can buy these at art supply stores.

Sorry, totally disagree with you.  I see pencil fading on tags on a regular basis...whether from water, light, or whatever, I have pulled many a tag out of pots tat were once legible and have become no longer legible (some in only a year or so's time). 

I have also seen pencil fade on paper in  an inside office setting from just being in files with no light or outside elements affecting it.

[fruitlovers]

#2 pencil is one of the longest lasting markers for plastic pot labels in our climate. It outlasts most markers. The pencil does not fade for over a year, despite our high UV rate. What happens is that lichens and moss will start growing on the plastic labels after about one year and make the pencil markings hard to read.

OK, here is my Tip of the Day. Use #2 pencil, but push the plastic label into the pot soil. Only leave 1/2 inch sticking out so you can see it if you want to pull out to read. The pencil markings will last a very very long time if not hit by UV and the mold, moss, and lichen, will not grow on the label when it's in the soil. (This took me 20 years to figure out!)

You can also leave the label above soil level and mark both sides of the label. The side that the sun hits will fade a lot more rapidly than the back side.

Another very good marker is the China wax markers. With these you can write right on the pot...no need to buy labels. You can buy these at art supply stores.

Sorry, totally disagree with you.  I see pencil fading on tags on a regular basis...whether from water, light, or whatever, I have pulled many a tag out of pots tat were once legible and have become no longer legible (some in only a year or so's time). 

I have also seen pencil fade on paper in  an inside office setting from just being in files with no light or outside elements affecting it.

Rob, not making this up, been using pencil for over 20 years on plastic pot labels. There are different kinds of pencil. Are you talking about #2 pencil?

[bsbullie]

#2 pencil is one of the longest lasting markers for plastic pot labels in our climate. It outlasts most markers. The pencil does not fade for over a year, despite our high UV rate. What happens is that lichens and moss will start growing on the plastic labels after about one year and make the pencil markings hard to read.

OK, here is my Tip of the Day. Use #2 pencil, but push the plastic label into the pot soil. Only leave 1/2 inch sticking out so you can see it if you want to pull out to read. The pencil markings will last a very very long time if not hit by UV and the mold, moss, and lichen, will not grow on the label when it's in the soil. (This took me 20 years to figure out!)

You can also leave the label above soil level and mark both sides of the label. The side that the sun hits will fade a lot more rapidly than the back side.

Another very good marker is the China wax markers. With these you can write right on the pot...no need to buy labels. You can buy these at art supply stores.

Sorry, totally disagree with you.  I see pencil fading on tags on a regular basis...whether from water, light, or whatever, I have pulled many a tag out of pots tat were once legible and have become no longer legible (some in only a year or so's time). 

I have also seen pencil fade on paper in  an inside office setting from just being in files with no light or outside elements affecting it.

Rob, not making this up, been using pencil for over 20 years on plastic pot labels. There are different kinds of pencil. Are you talking about #2 pencil?

Cannot answer that as I was not the one writing on the tags and have no knowledge of the type of pencil.

As far as writing on office paperwork, my dad was a CPA and as you may know, it was pencils only.  I have seen many of pencil written papers and the writing has definitely faded.  I would bet he used #2.  Possibly being kept in a file/folder or even the paper may have something to do with fading in that type of situation.

[fruitlovers]

Rob, yes writing on paper is very different than writing on a plastic pot label. Also different pencils will last differently. As i said on my post, while pencil is not perfect, it will last a whole year here without a problem, and lasts longer than most markers. I've done tests comparing them. So of that i'm very sure. And our climate, with intense sunlight, and rain throughout the year is VERY tough on markings on labels. If you push the label into the pot after writing it i'm guessing it will last several years without fading. Don't have an exact number on how long that will last as i just started doing that about a year ago. So far so good, no fading. Because marking labels here is so challenging i've paid a lot of attention to this issue. Nothing more frustrating than loosing the ID of valuable seedlings or plants.

[Pancrazio]

I would not recommend pencil as pencil naturally fades over time and would be a very poor choice to use in making long term tags for plant records, or any other records for that matter.

I'm speaking from experience. I have tags i made in 2003 on my cactus and pencil is still visible.
The major issues with those tags aren't the pencils that is washed away, but the fact that sun, after some years, make them frail and they broke. But pencil still stays there.

[fruitlovers]

I would not recommend pencil as pencil naturally fades over time and would be a very poor choice to use in making long term tags for plant records, or any other records for that matter.

I'm speaking from experience. I have tags i made in 2003 on my cactus and pencil is still visible.
The major issues with those tags aren't the pencils that is washed away, but the fact that sun, after some years, make them frail and they broke. But pencil still stays there.

Yes you are right. The plastic label also breaks down with the UV. Another reason to bury the plastic. Here with high rainfall we have moss, lichens, growing on the plastic, and covering up the pencil marks. Also avoided by burying the plastic into the pot's soil. Here the pencil marking will definitely not last 9 years, like in your location, but 1+ year with no problem. If i see a pot with fading markings or disintegrating tag i just replace the tag.

[jabotica]

 hollywood,I've lost more black sapote from taking the the seed off the leaves of new sprouts . they take a long time to drop,but I find its best to let it drop on its own
  It seems that fading lables are a universal problem for most of us. I think untilwe a better method  sinking them in the soil as Oscar says may be best. losing the Id of
our pets is unforgiveable
   

[LEOOEL]

Thanks Oscar for the great tip(s). I'm gonna follow your recommendation(s).

I'm gonna get a #2 pencil (that's easy) and some plastic labels (I guess at some "do it yourself store"), and mark all of my fruit trees, and bury the labels, before I forget more of my fruit tree ID's.

Well, I sure have my work cut out for me:
1   label my fruit tress, and on a different topic,
2   buy grafted, black & large variety, jaboticaba fruit tree and,
3   buy a male flower mamoncillo fruit tree, and cross graft/air-layer my three planted mamoncillo fruit trees.
God help me. 

[zands]

Thanks Oscar for the great tip(s). I'm gonna follow your recommendation(s).

I'm gonna get a #2 pencil (that's easy) and some plastic labels (I guess at some "do it yourself store"), and mark all of my fruit trees, and bury the labels, before I forget more of my fruit tree ID's.

Well, I sure have my work cut out for me:
1   label my fruit tress, and on a different topic,
2   buy grafted, black & large variety, jaboticaba fruit tree and,
3   buy a male flower mamoncillo fruit tree, and cross graft/air-layer my three planted mamoncillo fruit trees.
God help me. 

Some old window blinds cut into strips say 3" x 1" can work with your #2 pencil. This plastic endures under the sun....it was made to. Cut  them even larger (even spray paint one end red or orange for visibility) so you don't lose track of them (and they cost nothing) and half bury under the mulch. People throw out window blinds all the time

[Jackfruitwhisperer69]

Before you are thinking of buying a grafted tree...research all there is to know about the cv in question!

Like;
 Productivity, Disease resistance, semi-shade or full sun, compact or vigorous, drought tolerance, season of harvest, wind tolerance...etc     

[LEOOEL]

Before you are thinking of buying a grafted tree...research all there is to know about the cv in question!

Like;
 Productivity, Disease resistance, semi-shade or full sun, compact or vigorous, drought tolerance, season of harvest, wind tolerance...etc     

Thanks Steven, dittos. It's just that when it comes to grafting Mamoncillos, like the Mick Jagger song me & Oscar were talking about, you just have to "...try, ...try, ...try..."

[fyliu]

Some old window blinds cut into strips say 3" x 1" can work with your #2 pencil. This plastic endures under the sun....it was made to. Cut  them even larger (even spray paint one end red or orange for visibility) so you don't lose track of them (and they cost nothing) and half bury under the mulch. People throw out window blinds all the time

If you're using windows blinds then maybe you'll also consider scratching out the name in a beer can with a ballpoint pen. That's also a very common material and also deters people from playing with them.

[Jackfruitwhisperer69]

Before you are thinking of buying a grafted tree...research all there is to know about the cv in question!

Like;
 Productivity, Disease resistance, semi-shade or full sun, compact or vigorous, drought tolerance, season of harvest, wind tolerance...etc     

Thanks Steven, dittos. It's just that when it comes to grafting Mamoncillos, like the Mick Jagger song me & Oscar were talking about, you just have to "...try, ...try, ...try..."

Hi Leo,
 
It would be most unfortunate to plant a grafted tree and it turns out to not be a good one    Another excellent way...is to taste them fruits from the cv you want to buy and if it's what you are looking for...full steam ahead

[zands]

Some old window blinds cut into strips say 3" x 1" can work with your #2 pencil. This plastic endures under the sun....it was made to. Cut  them even larger (even spray paint one end red or orange for visibility) so you don't lose track of them (and they cost nothing) and half bury under the mulch. People throw out window blinds all the time

If you're using windows blinds then maybe you'll also consider scratching out the name in a beer can with a ballpoint pen. That's also a very common material and also deters people from playing with them.

Aluminum flashing from hardware store will work better because is thicker....  Ace hardware might sell it by the foot. HD sells it by the roll unfortunately. Before the era of Home Depot your neighborhood hardware store would sell you some off a roll. Some still do if you can find them

[FlyingFoxFruits]

Top of the morning to you, here's your tip for the day:

Myrciaria strigipes is surprisingly cold tolerant...definitely more cold tolerant than M. glazioviana (yellow jaboticaba), possibly the same cold tolerance as Plinia edulis.

[LEOOEL]

This fruit tree hobby is very enjoyable, decompressing and relaxing. In many not so obvious ways.

I check out my trees about once or twice a week. On Sunday, while walking in my yard I was pleasantly surprised. When I observed all different kinds of birds, butterflies, but specially the birds, they were all like having an orgy of happiness, among all the premature fruits on the trees. It was like, they were saying, yes, look at all the fruit we're soon gonna have. They were all happy, flying fast and together in bunches, and I was like, yeah, I needed that, thanks guys. 

[puglvr1]

Great Tips everyone!!

Mine has to do with trying to prevent root rot on Container fruit trees, especially here in summer when we sometimes have rain a few days in a row. I take a Large garbage bag and cover just the soil part of the pot (kind of like a tipi) and use clothes pin to secure so the pot doesn't get water logged from too much rain. These are for people that can't move their pots due to size or weight. Especially if the tree is planted in a water retentive potting mix.

[FlyingFoxFruits]

This cold weather sure put a hurting on the scale insects, and ants!

I noticed several trees are void of living ants or scales (green scale mostly).

Jaboticabas laugh at scales...and shed them as they grow...like water on a ducks back. 

There's enough food produced by jaboticabas for ants, scales, birds, racoons, rats, your friends, and you.