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Messages - Citradia

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1
I think having humidity in room will help manage mite problems. I used to bring my potted citrus into my house over winter and with heat pump running and low humidity, even with humidifier near trees, mites get bad and have to take trees outside and hose them down on warm days or put them in shower and rain on them. Since I started putting potted citrus in outdoor greenhouses/plastic cold frames with in ground trees, they don't have mites as bad I think due to a more natural environment with higher humidity, although they go dormant outside same as in ground trees. My potted trees don't put on much growth in house during winter anyway. Lovely collection there, Susanne!

2
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Savanna Citrus Expo
« on: October 17, 2017, 09:11:07 PM »
I'll be there. I've been to four of them so far. It's always informative and an inspirational experience.

3
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Upgraded cold frames for growing trees.
« on: October 17, 2017, 09:06:32 PM »
Addendum: I also think filling our enclosure with water containers helps to take up volume of air space inside enclosure which is less air for my heater to have to heat up.

4
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Upgraded cold frames for growing trees.
« on: October 17, 2017, 09:02:43 PM »
I think I've seen socalwarm's greenhouse at Big Lots. I'm pretty sure it has a zipper-type door that opens to vent. I would like to have a quick set up green house like that, but I get high winds on top of the mountain here in winter, so I have to have heavy frame work for my coverings. I use black plastic garbage cans, 32 gallon, and spray painted some 5 gallon buckets and some gallon milk jugs to pack around my trees in winter. The black paint flakes off after a few years but so what. I have found that unless the water container is right up against the plant, there is not much thermal protection/ benefit. The plant tissue higher than the top of the water barrel tends to die off with the deep freeze. I've also noticed that when it is extremely cold, single digits or zero Degrees F, unless you have a heater in your plastic covered enclosure, the temperature in the enclosure will drop a degree or two every minute or less even with water barrel and jugs of water in there. Water barrels help some, but I don't think they are as influential as as they are touted to be,at least not in extreme cold situations. I still do them anyway!

5
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Upgraded cold frames for growing trees.
« on: October 16, 2017, 01:21:48 PM »
Thanks!

6
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Upgraded cold frames for growing trees.
« on: October 11, 2017, 05:52:25 PM »
Thanks!

7
Citrus General Discussion / Re: ID of a citrus tree grown from seed
« on: October 10, 2017, 07:45:43 PM »
Ichang lemon has large petiole. Ichang lemon is cross with pummelo and ichang papeda. Maybe it's similar to some of those varieties.

8
When I called Hotel today and mentioned the citrus expo discount, I was told 202 dollars with tax for the two days. I booked online cheeper through my Exploria Marketplace account.

9
Cold Hardy Citrus / Upgraded cold frames for growing trees.
« on: October 09, 2017, 05:00:27 PM »
My seedling Changsha is getting too tall and Rio Red on FD is bigger this year. Will cover them in 4 mil plastic and have one side to roll up on east side of structure to vent on warm days. Space heater with thermo cube in each. Plan to disassemble the Rio Red frame next to house in spring and put up again next fall; used screws.




10
Mine send up new shoots/trunks/suckers every year. Native Sambucus Nigra. I tried clearing out the new suckers to leave one big trunk tree; however, I noticed that over time that big tree trunk just gets weaker with less new growth and branches each year. It degenerates naturally and needs those new sucker to form new tree trunks. I've noticed that the canadensis native in our high mountains has similar growth habit. It's really a no worry shrub; they do well in poor soils and even under the plant-killing black walnut tree. I doubt there's a variety that doesn't send new growth from ground/roots.

11
Citrus General Discussion / Re: What The Grower Gets
« on: October 04, 2017, 08:07:19 PM »
Growing your own fruit at home is fun. However, one may ask if it is really cheaper for one to pay for the upkeep of trees ( fertilizer, water, pruning, mulching, spraying) than to just buy fruit in store. Citrus used to be no maintenance when I was a kid in Fl, but I can tell you that I spend a lot more on upkeep of peaches, apples, etc, and of course winter protection for citrus here in NC. Native fruits however, such as paw paw and wild crabapple are no maintenance and I can pretty much call their produce "free fruit".

12
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citrus in the Pacific Northwest
« on: October 01, 2017, 09:19:13 PM »
And, the reality is that if you live somewhere where it ever gets down to 5 degrees, you are going to have nights and days when it never gets above freezing, sometimes not getting above freezing for several days. If the temps don't rise above freezing when the sun comes up the morning after the cold snap, your citrus ( other than trifoliata) is in trouble.

13
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: breeding cold hardy pomelo
« on: September 30, 2017, 10:22:08 PM »
I saw pummelo trees for sale at a nursery in Tallahassee, FL a few years ago and Ben Salley, a citrus grower ("Simply Citrus") in Columbia,SC had a pummelo growing under a magnolia tree when I visited his nursery a few years ago. At one of the Southeastern Citrus Forum meetings I attended, a lady mentioned a pummelo that she grew on St Helena Island in SC. These areas either are or are very close to zone 8 climates.

14
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Really Stupid Question....
« on: September 22, 2017, 10:09:16 PM »
If planting paw paw, remember they don't like trauma to roots when planting. I'd leave rootball intact as much as possible. Usually not planting a huge tree anyway. Paw paw likes water so wouldn't worry about planting hole turning into too much of a sink if planting in well drained soil versus thick clay. Most trees we buy from nurseries are in a bark mixture potting soil, we plant tree in ground, and it grows. If all soil falls off roots, we stick them roots in hole and fill it in with dirt/soil, and plant usually does just fine. No worries, man!

15
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Will There Be Any Place Left To Grow Citrus
« on: September 21, 2017, 08:21:53 PM »
You are right Badfish. They replace trees in China/Asia where greening came from. No cure there either. A lot of backyard growers won't want to plant a tree that they know will be dead in 5 years though. Hopefully cure will be found sooner than later.

16
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Spacing on flying dragon
« on: September 21, 2017, 08:15:21 PM »
I've seen FD planted at Biltmore House in Asheville, NC, in a big mass planting like a bed of azaleas, each plant/ bush about 4 ft tall and 4 or 5 ft spaced apart; one could still walk between the individual trees. They tend to be taller than wide, almost columnar.

17
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: First and second year pawpaws
« on: September 21, 2017, 08:09:11 PM »
Even if you pull the grass and weeds from around the trees by hand and crunch up some fall leaves to make mulch around them in fall, you will get quicker growth and therefore less years to wait to get fruit. Yours trees won't bloom until over 5 or 6 feet tall.

18
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Will There Be Any Place Left To Grow Citrus
« on: September 19, 2017, 07:58:14 PM »
Greenhouse culture in states where citrus can't survive the cold winters. It will be a novelty fruit and no longer used for juice commercially.

19
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Paw Paw Farm sugestions
« on: September 19, 2017, 07:53:57 PM »
Triloba Tracker, I don't know for sure if I planted my mail order trees in spring or fall, but I think it was Spring since the trees were small and not leafed out. The ones I grew from seed in pots myself, I may have planted in fall. I don't think it matters much. As long as you don't traumatize the roots much when you plant it, and water and mulch, the paw paw for me has been pretty easy to grow. In spring I like to put some compost around base of my trees and they seem to like that.

20
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Paw Paw Farm sugestions
« on: September 18, 2017, 10:15:57 AM »
I live on top of a mountain and my trees are on well drained black sandy soil on gentle slope growing under tall black walnut tree but get a good bit of full sun every day. I put rock berms around each tree and mulching when planted about 6 years ago. I had ordered 4 trees from Raintree Nursery with one I know is My Rebecca's Gold and I think one was "Prolific ", and the other two were just seedlings. I have planted a few more that I grew from wild local seed. They all seem to produce well, wether I hand pollinate or not. Each year I'll have one or two trees that seem to alternate bear which I think is due to varied flower maturation timing with male/female phases. Rebecca's Gold is softer  and yellower than my other greener and firmer fruited varieties, but I like its flavor and pudding-like texture more. Either way, I have to go check all fruits on all trees daily or I'll find some nice big fruits half mashed on ground from falling off trees. I'm currently making jam out of all paw paws I gather since I can't eat them fast enough before they go bad. The Prolific paw paw doesn't seem to be much different from other seedlings. All the trees look the same. Now that my trees are well established, I don't have to irrigate much unless we have bad drought.

21
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: cold hardy Citrus for zone 7b?
« on: September 15, 2017, 08:16:48 PM »
Poncyrus trifoliate and its hybrids are better suited to clay soils than regular citrus which like sandier soils. Go to Mckenzie farms.com; Stan Mckenzie has/had copies of the book called "Hardy Citrus for the Southeast ", by Tom McClendon, for sale. You could also try Ben Salley out of Columbia SC, also sells citrus; he's who I got my Croxton from, and he lives across the street from the original Croxton. His business and site on Facebook is called "Simply Citrus". I don't know if you can take citrus into GA from SC though.

22
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Key Lime uprooted, survival odds?
« on: September 13, 2017, 06:12:12 PM »
Trees are tuff. I'd try to save it.

23
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Key Lime uprooted, survival odds?
« on: September 12, 2017, 08:37:45 PM »
Just rebury the exposed roots and water them well. Stake the tree to prevent from falling over again. What works for me when bears pull over apple trees is planting a 4x4 post in ground or several if needed around the tree, and strap the tree to the posts with a wide strap or belt to hold tree upright without cutting into bark. After s few years the posts may be removed if tree seems sturdy in ground again.

24
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: cold hardy Citrus for zone 7b?
« on: September 12, 2017, 08:29:08 PM »
I have Croxton but I cover mine in winter and protect from severe freeze with space heater. Croxton comes from Columbia, SC which I believe is zone 8a and grows at Mckinzie Farms in Scranton, SC zone 8a, where it is protected with microsprinklers during freezing nights. I protect my grapefruit from freezing largely due to need to overwinter the fruit which takes over a year to mature in my climate. 7b you probably have hot summers so your grapefruit may be ripe enough to eat before the first hard freeze in your area. Croxton is real citrus; 7b I believe is a low of 5 degrees; I've lost citranges at 5 degrees and this past spring lost half of the height from citranges when it got down to only 14 degrees after they started waking up from a warmer winter/spring. You would have to protect Croxton or any other real citrus in 7b.

25
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: cold hardy Citrus for zone 7b?
« on: September 10, 2017, 09:47:51 PM »
I have Dunstan citrumelo unprotected that have survived the past two years. I think they make a decent version of a sour grapefruit. Note: it is a novelty tree to grow in cold climate without winter protection, not a store-quality fruit. It is better, more ornamental and noteworthy with larger more impressive fruit and leaves than poncyrus trifoliata.

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