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Messages - Millet

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1
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Please help calamansi is dying :(
« on: October 18, 2017, 06:21:03 PM »
Jessig, the damage could have been caused by aphids, thrips, white fly and who know what.   Insects such a white fly and thrips and many others, that suck the juices out of the leaves, are so small it very difficult to even see them with the unaided eye.

2
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Please help calamansi is dying :(
« on: October 18, 2017, 10:27:58 AM »
Those leaf 'buds" were damaged by insects while they were still very immature.  I sometimes have had the same problem, most lately with new growth on a Dekopon tree.   When the trees are starting to flush fresh new growth I spray the foliage with a 1% horticultural oil spray  every 3 or 4 days and have not had any further problems with the leaf's growth.

3
Citrus General Discussion / Savanna Citrus Expo
« on: October 17, 2017, 05:28:57 PM »
Today I reserved my hotel, box lunch, and registration for the Citrus Expo November 17 & 18. This will be my 4th Citrus Expo. Hope to meet some of you there.

4
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Lights in winter temps and humidity??
« on: October 17, 2017, 05:06:27 PM »
If any of your trees are setting directly in the sun, be sure that BOTH the foliage and the container are in the sun..  Several 100 years ago, some of the large European citrus collections were put in the Estate's basement with no light what so ever for the winter, then brought back out the following spring.  They did fine.

5
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Lights in winter temps and humidity??
« on: October 17, 2017, 03:08:42 PM »
Susan root health and root heat is more important then light.  Trees setting in a north window location do fine, if the root are warm.  If you see a tree in trouble place it on a heat pad or move it so that the container is in direct sunlight. During winter water with warm water.

6
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Lights in winter temps and humidity??
« on: October 17, 2017, 12:52:11 PM »
Most people worry about the tree's foliage when they bring in their container trees inside hoping that their will not be leaf fall or other common die back problems. More important, or at least just as important, is the root zone of the tree.  As the roots go so goes the entire tree.  Keep the root temperatures around 60-F+, and if any of your trees start to have trouble raise the root temperature up to 70 F.

7
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Upgraded cold frames for growing trees.
« on: October 16, 2017, 09:52:43 PM »
SoCal.  if you dye the water black, or paint the jugs black the water will absorb much moer heat during the day.

8
Citrus General Discussion / Re: new greenhouse planning
« on: October 16, 2017, 03:02:45 PM »
I also have double wall 6-mm polycarbonate on my end walls and side walls, but went with double air inflated 6-mill poly for the roof.

9
Dr. Manners and Stan McKenzie are still around, but have not posted in a very long time.  The old forum is completely gone even the archives.  Nothing left at all.

10
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Dealing with Cold Damage
« on: October 15, 2017, 10:10:11 AM »
Good for that tree.  That is why there should never be a  hurry to remove "dead" wood.

11
Citrus General Discussion / Re: new greenhouse planning
« on: October 14, 2017, 10:02:35 PM »
Another thought: If the exhaust fans and the inlet vents were located at the top of the two end walls, when the fans turn on all the incoming air would travel across the ceiling of your greenhouse and go right out the other end through the fans.  All that air that just passes through and out the upper level of the structure is the air that contains the CO2 that the plants need as their food source.  When the fan and vents are set lower, all the CO2 passes directly through and all around the plants.

12
Citrus General Discussion / Re: new greenhouse planning
« on: October 14, 2017, 05:09:33 PM »
Brian my front exhaust fans and rear intake vents are all at mid height.   For 10 years I called on the Colorado, New Mexico and California greenhouse industry when I worked for a large agricultural chemical company. All greenhouses have there exhaust fans and intake vents at mid height.  Never seen a greenhouse with them at ceiling height.  You don't want exhaust and vent high.  You want to retain the ceiling heat to use during during winter and use roof fans to blow the heat back down to your plants. In the northern hemisphere, the greenhouse north wall loses both heat and light.  The greenhouse would be much better off if you  insulated the north wall using those silver sided polyurethane insulation boards.  The silver coating reflects all the sun's rays back into the greenhouse.  The plants love it. The two most important greenhouse items are heat and light.

13
A.T. Hagan, great to see you here.  I remember you from the old Citrus Forum.  I have thought about you from time to time, wondering where you went.  I have not seen you in along time.  Excited to see you again.   

14
Citrus General Discussion / Re: new greenhouse planning
« on: October 13, 2017, 08:56:45 PM »
Brian,  your greenhouse looks just great.  Consider putting a couple ceiling fans in the top to push the hot air back down to the plant level during the winter months.  This reduces the temperature gradient between the inside top covering and the cold winter weather outside, therefore your heat lost to the outside air through to film is greatly reduced.  It helps keep the inside temperature warmer, and the temperature even throughout the greenhouse.  I have three 20-inch ceiling fans that blow throughout the day and night during the winter.   Spray a surfactant, Tween 20 is the common one to use on the inside walls to keep the greenhouse from dripping.  Great job -- congratulation on a job well done. 

15
Irma sends Florida orange production dropping 21% to 71-year low. Florida’s orange production will plunge 21 percent to a 71-year low after damage wrought by Hurricane Irma devastated the harvest. Orange growers in Florida, will harvest 54 million boxes in the 2017-18 marketing year, the least since 1947.

16
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Newly grafted tree's
« on: October 11, 2017, 03:54:35 PM »
Congratulations Luak your grafting was top notch. I tried to be selective and send you two sticks that were in excellent condition. 

17
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Upgraded cold frames for growing trees.
« on: October 09, 2017, 09:02:40 PM »
Looks like it should work.  Mr. Texas had a temp. greenhouse he put around his tree, during a cold snap.

18
Citrus General Discussion / Re: ID of a citrus tree grown from seed
« on: October 07, 2017, 03:13:08 PM »
Tangelos do come true from seed.

19
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Dracula Blood Orange
« on: October 06, 2017, 08:44:44 PM »
Looks like the common Moro Blood orange, just being sold under a Dracula name maybe for Halloween market.

20
Citrus General Discussion / What The Grower Gets
« on: October 02, 2017, 03:43:06 PM »
Fresh citrus for eating, such as grown in California  nets the grower between $17 and $20 for each 40-pound carton, while oranges diverted to orange juice production, such as grown in Florida get about $185 a ton, which equates to about $3.70 for 40 pounds,

21
Citrus General Discussion / Re: ID of a citrus tree grown from seed
« on: October 01, 2017, 01:39:32 PM »
Most all citrus seeds come true from seed.  All most all sweet oranges, true grapefruit, lemon, limes, pure mandarins (other than King and Clementine) most tangelos, hybrid tangerines and tangors (except for Temple) come true from seed.  Most pummelos do not come true from seed.

22
Laidback, all the tree needs is time.  It will fill out..

25
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Rootstocks ??
« on: September 26, 2017, 02:51:37 PM »
I also foliar spray micronutrients using Peters STEM.

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