The Tropical Fruit Forum
Tropical Fruit => Tropical Fruit Discussion => Topic started by: bradflorida on November 09, 2014, 09:00:45 PM
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I Will be making a dragon fruit trellis.
I have a 4x4 piece of pressure treated lumber that will stick for feet vertically out of the ground. I am debating whether or not I should put a piece of wood perpendicular across the top so the whole thing will look like the letter T. Or should I just leave it alone and have a 4 foot vertical post?
I guess Im having a hard time imagining how the starting cactus segments run vertically up the post and when they hit the top of the post do they just lean backwards in a horizontal direction off of the post by either training them or by relying on their own little aerial roots to cling on and not fall back?
Or must you train them to go forward and down over the other side of the post in a horizontal direction?
Do the aerial roots support the cactus strong enough or do you have to keep trying the top segments to the top of the post?
Thanks!
Brad
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This is the way they do it in the Philippines.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/Philippine%20Concrete%20Posts/post9_zps18989e50.jpg)
Note that they tie the Dragon Fruit stems to the vertical post.
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Good to know. Looks like zip ties and cloth ties.
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Dragonfruit and orchids grow in roughly the same environment: at the top part of the rainforest canopy. The vines are climbers but the arial roots aren't clinging. They might search along branches and dip into places where water pool up to get a drink. That's how I like to think of it working anyway.
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So, let's see if I understand what I'm looking at in the photo.
Concrete posts with pieces of steel rebar supporting motorcycle tires on top?
The tires probably would hold rainwater the cacti could use, but they would also provide a place for mosquitoes to breed. Hmmm...
Say Brad, why didn't you answer my PM? We gonna tour each other's gardens, or what?
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i bet they drill holes in teh tires so they don't collect standing water.
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Philippines rains a lot so they have to drill holes on those old tires due to the nasty dengue fever transmitted from mosquito bites.
8)
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Brad...most of the places growing DF in Thailand that we saw no longer bother with something across the top. Not needed and adds labor/time. I guess if you have room and want more coverage, the top piece would be beneficial.
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Brad...most of the places growing DF in Thailand that we saw no longer bother with something across the top. Not needed and adds labor/time. I guess if you have room and want more coverage, the top piece would be beneficial.
So, how do they control the vine-- just tie it to the post every couple feet high, and let the plant hand down? I would love to avoid this step...I have been "meaning" to put a top on my DF posts, but have never gotten around to it= don't want to do it.
Thanks
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So, how do they control the vine-- just tie it to the post every couple feet high, and let the plant hand down? I would love to avoid this step...I have been "meaning" to put a top on my DF posts, but have never gotten around to it= don't want to do it.
Thanks
There is NOT one BEST way to do it. It will depend on the grower. The UCCE is experimenting with a wire trellis system.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/UCCEFillmoreFieldTrials00219-20_zpsbeb33a5c.jpg)
I mainly use a two post trellis.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/delight_4542_zpsbedb1ce7.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/halleys_4528_zps7829eb9d.jpg)
I am also experimenting with just raising a 15 gallon pot a couple feet on concrete blocks and tying the main stock to a 2 foot post and then letting it hanging down.
Jeff, You are going to find out that once the top fountain of the DF plant increases in size and weight, it will need some kind of support.
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I forgot to mention that some people have used a chain-link fence (myself included) for support.
MVP Farms:
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/MVP_Fillmore_4708_zps5d62025a.jpg)
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they most likely tie it to the post as it grows up and once at the top, starts pruning and lets it branch however it wants at that point. As pointed out, there are hundreds of ways of doing it. Comes down to how much time, effort, and expense you want to put into it. I like all the ones in the previous pics. I once had a post dug deep into the greenhouse with a huge top support. Was pretty neat but the plants were taking up way too much room. Now I have them in a corner growing up some fencing. I'm getting way too much growth and no blooms. Starting to piss me off!
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they most likely tie it to the post as it grows up and once at the top, starts pruning and lets it branch however it wants at that point. As pointed out, there are hundreds of ways of doing it. Comes down to how much time, effort, and expense you want to put into it. I like all the ones in the previous pics. I once had a post dug deep into the greenhouse with a huge top support. Was pretty neat but the plants were taking up way too much room. Now I have them in a corner growing up some fencing. I'm getting way too much growth and no blooms. Starting to piss me off!
How many different varieties are you growing?
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Thanks Jeff. Thanks Ricshaw. You have both helped me to better understand how the dragon fruit cactus is grown on a trellis.
I am hoping to construct my trellises tommorow. Will post pictures.
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Sheehan...I have 4 varieties going. Just no blooms.
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(http://s2.postimg.cc/mmso60ydh/20141113_173141_resized_2.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/mmso60ydh/)
(http://s3.postimg.cc/f6m0athrz/20141113_173022_resized_2.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/f6m0athrz/)
(http://s30.postimg.cc/wv71rprwt/20141113_173048_resized_2.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/wv71rprwt/)
(http://s10.postimg.cc/hnzqllysl/20141113_173115_resized_2.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/hnzqllysl/)
(http://s14.postimg.cc/drvjtoqfh/20141113_173126_resized_2.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/drvjtoqfh/)
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Finished the trellises this morning.
I used 4x4 x 6 foot pressure treated (ground contact rated) posts.
Each trellis is 4' tall with a 3' long horizontal piece on top.
Posts are sitting on 6" of drainage stones (3/4 to 1" sized stones) and surrounded by these stones, in order to avoid contact between the wood and the dirt.
Posts are buried 2' in the ground.
I plan on planting the dragon fruit plants between the two trellises and letting them grow horizontally along the ground until they reach the post and can go vertical up the post.
I will probably wrap the posts in either burlap or rope wound around the posts, to allow the aerial roots to attach easily.
They are in a location where they have western exposure and will receive maybe 4 hrs of direct sunlight in the afternoon.
I live in a deed restricted community. Trellises like this probably wouldn't get HOA approval, so I decided to install them under the cover of darkness. I also strategically planted a new Areca palm in front of the trellises in hopes of blocking the view.
I will be planting American Beauty, Halleys Comet and Zamorano dragon fruit once they get large enough to plant in the ground.
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I used to wrap my trellis with burlap, but it tends to get all rotten and raggedy. Your HOA would love to see that!
I ditched the burlap and now I just rough up the post with a hand saw. This creates a bunch of scratches up and down the post the roots can cling to.
I also gave up trying to grow dragonfruit directly out of the ground. No matter how much I fertilized, the cactus ended up looking all yellowish and enemic. Now I plant them in large flowerpots with good topsoil in them.
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Just sharing the following for discussion:
Some Dragon Fruit growers have 'concerns' with using pressure treated lumber.
Some Dragon Fruit growers have questioned if Dragon Fruit aerial roots will attach to pressure treated lumber (a reason to wrap with burlap).
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Regarding the PT wood.
I would not personally use it, my 4x4's are cedar. It did take some searching but I found some at a local HD (they cost about 4x as much though). The cedar posts are rough enough on their own as they are not finish sanded. I have not topped mine either and will get to this eventually. I will post some pics later.
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Has anyone ever wrapped their trellis with rope?
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How about lathering a PT pole with a stucco surface. Then the plant would behave like it was climbing on masonry. I am thinking of trying this approach with 'surface bonding cement'. I'll report on how it works....
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How about lathering a PT pole with a stucco surface. Then the plant would behave like it was climbing on masonry. I am thinking of trying this approach with 'surface bonding cement'. I'll report on how it works....
Would it be easier to just make the post solid concrete?
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/post_3880_zps24e27c05.jpg)
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How about lathering a PT pole with a stucco surface. Then the plant would behave like it was climbing on masonry. I am thinking of trying this approach with 'surface bonding cement'. I'll report on how it works....
If you did this (I would think), you would have to screw metal lath to the pole then the stucco. Maybe that is what you already had in mind.
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How about lathering a PT pole with a stucco surface. Then the plant would behave like it was climbing on masonry. I am thinking of trying this approach with 'surface bonding cement'. I'll report on how it works....
Would it be easier to just make the post solid concrete?
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/post_3880_zps24e27c05.jpg)
I did this for m last trellis. Basically I filled stormwater downpipe with rapid set concrete. Turned out not very good because it didn't set inside evenly, but I Think if you could make it work it would be the best design.
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You would need a reinforcing steel bar (at least one) imbedded in the center of that post. Pretty darn heavy too. I think that surface bonding cement (a kind of stucco containing chopped up nylon strands for reinforcement) is worth a try. Tacking wire mesh to the post might turn out to be necessary, but if it works without the mesh it will be cheaper, faster, and easier. The stucco job doesn't have to be a work of art - after all it will soon be covered by climbing pitaya, and we all know what a beautiful sight pitaya is....
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You would need a reinforcing steel bar (at least one) imbedded in the center of that post. Pretty darn heavy too. I think that surface bonding cement (a kind of stucco containing chopped up nylon strands for reinforcement) is worth a try. Tacking wire mesh to the post might turn out to be necessary, but if it works without the mesh it will be cheaper, faster, and easier. The stucco job doesn't have to be a work of art - after all it will soon be covered by climbing pitaya, and we all know what a beautiful sight pitaya is....
Give it a try and take pictures.
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I'm bought my first dragon fruit cuttings at the Fairchild ramble last weekend. I'm going to get 11 trellis' in the ground along part of my fence line which is otherwise wasted space. Here's my progress so far. Bought 8' treated 4x4's that I'll wrap with rope. The top is being built out of 8' 2x3's, 3 cut in half per post creates a 4' square top.
I put the cuttings in pots with a layer of gravel in the bottom, with miracle grow potting soil and some mulch. These will go in the ground beside the post.
Cuttings are: American Beauty, Halley's Comet, Purple Haze, Vietnamese Jaina, Zamorano, Natural Mystic, Physical Graffiti, and Dark Star. The last 3 will be Yellow but I have to see if there are some at PIN.
I need to find someone with a bobcat or backhoe to dig out the holes for me. Please let me know by PM if you know anyone in the Redlands who can dig for me.
(http://s23.postimg.cc/gk20qz8rr/P1020160.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/gk20qz8rr/)
(http://s23.postimg.cc/gvjh3qp7r/P1020161.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/gvjh3qp7r/)
(http://s23.postimg.cc/w837xrodj/P1020162.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/w837xrodj/)
(http://s23.postimg.cc/szyqkq23r/P1020163.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/szyqkq23r/)
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do you think the roots would adhered to a polyester or false burlap? The material is said to resemble regular burlap except it has a smooth surface. I wonder if the smoothness would prevent the roots from adhering. Other alternatives could be a garden fencing material that is made of plastic and has quarter inch or half inch holes. Or possibly plastic shade ckoth? Think this would work? And just trying to avoid regular burlap since it has been said to not last that long.
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Close to 3 years now and none of the burlap I wrapped around any of my trellis poles is falling apart or even looking like it wants to. All the branches draping over the top supports proved alot of shade so no worries about direct UV exposure breaking it down.
And all of my DF except the yellow have had no problem attaching roots to pressure treated pine. My yellow doesn't seem to put out alot of aerial roots in general, a few that have attached to the burlap, but no where close to the amount of roots compared to all the others.
DM
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do you think the roots would adhered to a polyester or false burlap? The material is said to resemble regular burlap except it has a smooth surface. I wonder if the smoothness would prevent the roots from adhering. Other alternatives could be a garden fencing material that is made of plastic and has quarter inch or half inch holes. Or possibly plastic shade ckoth? Think this would work? And just trying to avoid regular burlap since it has been said to not last that long.
My plants have attached to shade cloth in the past (accidentally), so I would think that the false burlap would work.
Richard
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Jun Ancheta posted a picture of his cousin's trellis on Facebook.
(https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t31.0-8/1956884_10202758612380612_736884468_o.jpg)
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I found some tan 75 percent shade cloth that I'm going to wrap around the trellises.
My next question. ...I recently saw some dragon fruit trellises locally and noticed that the aerial roots would atta ck to the trellis and then run vertically down the trellis and back into the soIL.
However with my setup I have 8 inches radius of crushed stone all around the base of the post. Will the plant suffer because they roots won't have dirt directly underneath to go into? Or will the roots run along the rocks surfaces and find their way into the dirt?
Would I have better luck with a large plastic container of soil at the base of each trellis?
Thanks!
Brad
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My next question. ...I recently saw some dragon fruit trellises locally and noticed that the aerial roots would atta ck to the trellis and then run vertically down the trellis and back into the soIL.
However with my setup I have 8 inches radius of crushed stone all around the base of the post. Will the plant suffer because they roots won't have dirt directly underneath to go into? Or will the roots run along the rocks surfaces and find their way into the dirt?
Would I have better luck with a large plastic container of soil at the base of each trellis?
Thanks!
Brad
Look something like this?
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/aerial_4789_zps08166b51.jpg)
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/aerial_4788_zpsff7624c6.jpg)
Brad, No need to worry. The plants will not suffer. The aerial roots do not have to find the soil.
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Ricshaw
Thanks for all your good advice. I appreciate it.
Would you recommend container or ground planting?
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Ricshaw
Would you recommend container or ground planting?
Are gophers a problem?
If not, I would plant in the ground.
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Gophers are not a problem.
Not sure if nematodes would be though.
Brad
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Remember the full grown dragon fruit plant will be 100-300 lbs in five or ten years. Make sure your post supports are strong enough to handle the loads and post is not damaged by water or termites (used treated wood or red wood). It is very painful to make another trellis again to support a full grown dragon plant based on my own experiences.
After too many researches, trials and errors :-\ :'( :o :-[ :D, here is my trellis.
Materials:
1. 4x4 treated wood, 12 ft long ( Notes: you can ask Home Depot cut 1/2 for you to make two posts.)(http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Pressure-Treated-Timber-HF-Brown-Stain-Common-4-in-x-4-in-x-12-ft-Actual-3-56-in-x-3-56-in-x-144-in-448909/202287541?keyword=4x4+%2C12+ft+treated+wood (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Pressure-Treated-Timber-HF-Brown-Stain-Common-4-in-x-4-in-x-12-ft-Actual-3-56-in-x-3-56-in-x-144-in-448909/202287541?keyword=4x4+%2C12+ft+treated+wood))
2. 24 in. Grey Groundmaster Post System. (http://www.homedepot.com/p/LTL-Home-Products-24-in-Grey-Groundmaster-Post-System-GM-24/100072482 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/LTL-Home-Products-24-in-Grey-Groundmaster-Post-System-GM-24/100072482))
3. 1/2" steel re-bars, 4-ft long (2 required)(http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weyerhaeuser-1-2-in-x-4-ft-Rebar-35616/202094286 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weyerhaeuser-1-2-in-x-4-ft-Rebar-35616/202094286))
4. 3/8" steel re-bars, 2-ft long (4 required) (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3-8-in-x-24-in-Rebar-140465/202090261 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3-8-in-x-24-in-Rebar-140465/202090261))
5. 3/8" steel re-bars, 1-ft long ( 4 required) (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3-8-in-x-12-in-Rebar-547360/202090383 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3-8-in-x-12-in-Rebar-547360/202090383))
6. Some galvanized or copper wires
7. 1/2"Plastic pipes (white or grey) (http://www.homedepot.com/p/JM-eagle-1-2-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Schedule-40-Conduit-67447/100122861 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/JM-eagle-1-2-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Schedule-40-Conduit-67447/100122861))
Directions:
I drill two holes 1/2" perpendicular on the 4x4 treated wood, 1-ft from the top, offset about 1/2 inches ( or you cannot insert the 1/2" re-bar perpendicular). Install the 24" post system into ground (check the vertical post with level. Also make sure the square parts above the ground as in a picture). Insert the 4x4 tread into the post system. Tie two nuts. Insert two 1/2" re-bars into 1/2" holes, making even both sides. Use the remained re-bars inserting in 1/2" plastic pipes (cuts as needed) to make two squares with wires, see the pictures.
Tada... You are done. :) Good luck
(http://s8.postimg.cc/53wr51y5t/20141117_160644_1.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/53wr51y5t/)
Small dragon plant on post
(http://s8.postimg.cc/89hcv9gs1/20141117_160722_1.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/89hcv9gs1/)
Two squares with re-bars, 1/2" pipes, and wires.
(http://s8.postimg.cc/hosmuq9f5/20141117_160746_1.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/hosmuq9f5/)
Post system top is above ground level.
This picture is shown the small dragon fruit plant. I still have another trellis with larger plant, covering all two squares, if any one want to see, I will post it later.
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THanks for all of the details on the trellis construction. I will give some serious thought to modifying mine.
Think 5 hours (winter ) to 6.5 hrs (summer) of direct afternoon sunshine in Florida will be enough for fruit production?
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Remember the full grown dragon fruit plant will be 100-300 lbs in five or ten years. Make sure your post supports are strong enough to handle the loads and post is not damaged by water or termites (used treated wood or red wood). It is very painful to make another trellis again to support a full grown dragon plant based on my own experiences.
After too many researches, trials and errors :-\ :'( :o :-[ :D,
That is my concern and why I do not use wood posts. Sinking treated lumber post in ground with moisture from watering Dragon Fruit plants will shorten the expected lifespan of the post. Miracle is addressing this problem with steel (and/or concrete) post support.
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Would it be easier to just make the post solid concrete?
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/post_3880_zps24e27c05.jpg)
I think I have finally found what I am going to use to make a strong trellis for the top of my single concrete posts.
I am going to use steel electrical strut channel available in 10 ft. lengths at big box stores for about $20.00.
(http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/22/22561dba-3b71-4b69-8ae1-b48dc7ac32c3_400.jpg)
It is galvanized 1 5/8" x 1 5/8" and can be cut with a hacksaw and assembled using bolts and strut brackets.
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are you planning on one piece on top of the trellis or two at right angles to each other forming a cross? will you slip the galvanized tracking right onto the rebar using the holes pre cut into the tracking? How will you secure the tracking to the pole so that it doesn't twist around?
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are you planning on one piece on top of the trellis or two at right angles to each other forming a cross? will you slip the galvanized tracking right onto the rebar using the holes pre cut into the tracking? How will you secure the tracking to the pole so that it doesn't twist around?
I like a "square" with a cross in the center.
I keep improving on my concrete posts I make. The last two I cast a 1/2" lag bolt in one end.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/post_4791_zps54257fe2.jpg)
I still want to make a concrete top something like this.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/concrete_top_zps7ec4f937.jpg)
I have all the materials needed and I think I figured out how I can cast one.
I will post a picture if I succeed.
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Today I installed a concrete Dragon Fruit support system at a demonstration garden.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/hansen_4928_zps949c9a8e.jpg)
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I've nearly finished building my new grove. I revisited the stormwater pipe idea and contacted a concrete pumper who filled the pipe with a professional liquid mix that is used to make cinderblocks. Before filling I made some rebar out of heavy gauge grate: I just grinded off sections as long as the pipe and shoved them down the pipe.
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Richard,
That looks really nice. Where did you get the form for the top support structure? Did you add that earthy color to the concrete?
Brad
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Richard,
That looks really nice. Where did you get the form for the top support structure? Did you add that earthy color to the concrete?
Brad
I made the disposable form from stuff I had.
I colored it with some leftover concrete acid stain I had.
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that came out really nice for a homemade form
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Very neat Ricshaw.
Doesn't look concrete at all.
Is the top structure also reinforced with metal inside?
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Is the top structure also reinforced with metal inside?
No. I figured if they can make concrete blocks without steel, I did not really need to.
(http://www.lowes.com/images/espot/cement_masonry/categories/9.jpg)
edit: I did use a crack resistant bagged concrete mix.
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That is because the blocks are being compressed which is where concrete has the most strength. In tension it is not very strong at all.
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That is because the blocks are being compressed which is where concrete has the most strength. In tension it is not very strong at all.
But they seem pretty sturdy by themselves without steel reinforcement.
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That is because the blocks are being compressed which is where concrete has the most strength. In tension it is not very strong at all.
But they seem pretty sturdy by themselves without steel reinforcement.
You do need rebar for any concrete structure that is either on a suspended or vertical plane. I tried to get away with it but the concrete pumper who is a professional in such matters assured me there was no point even making a concrete post without rebar reinforcement.
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You do need rebar for any concrete structure that is either on a suspended or vertical plane. I tried to get away with it but the concrete pumper who is a professional in such matters assured me there was no point even making a concrete post with rebar reinforcement.
I guess I got it backwards. I put rebar in the post because of its lenght. I didn't in the 18" wide trellis because it was easier without, even though I knew it would be better. The concrete mix did have "fibers" for strength.
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are you planning on one piece on top of the trellis or two at right angles to each other forming a cross? will you slip the galvanized tracking right onto the rebar using the holes pre cut into the tracking? How will you secure the tracking to the pole so that it doesn't twist around?
You can get those electrical galvanized structural supports real cheap at metal recycle places for about $6. I then pour a little concrete and stick the supports in and it has worked fine.
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No. I figured if they can make concrete blocks without steel, I did not really need to.
(http://www.lowes.com/images/espot/cement_masonry/categories/9.jpg)
edit: I did use a crack resistant bagged concrete mix.
Well, I was wrong! The second one I made had a crack and broke when I took it out of the form. :'(
I glued it back together with Liquid Nails Heavy Duty concrete glue. We will see how well it holds up. :-\
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/trellis_4939_zpsorrvzswj.jpg)
I decided to grow "Condor".
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/post_4941_zpsgmplm3jp.jpg)
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I had one vine that got so heavy it pushed over a 4 x 4 hardwood post, 2ft in compressed earth. I needed an excavator to lift the vine onto a large tree stump. Now I use nothing but tree stumps. I don't use cross braces, they get lost in the foliage over time.
This is the white Vietnam variety, average weight 1+kilo per each.
The vine took 3 years to re-establish itself and begin flowering again after the move.
(http://s24.postimg.cc/5j37aomdd/20150203_085059.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5j37aomdd/)
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I had one vine that got so heavy it pushed over a 4 x 4 hardwood post, 2ft in compressed earth. I needed an excavator to lift the vine onto a large tree stump. Now I use nothing but tree stumps. I don't use cross braces, they get lost in the foliage over time.
This is the white Vietnam variety, average weight 1+kilo per each.
The vine took 3 years to re-establish itself and begin flowering again after the move.
(http://s24.postimg.cc/5j37aomdd/20150203_085059.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/5j37aomdd/)
Would some yearly pruning be beneficial?
I know that the UCCE Irvine DF test fields have plants on 4 x 4 treated softwood posts for over 6 years.
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Yes, I should learn how to prune them so I don't lose any buds for the following year. I have over 100 flowers/buds and fruit over three plants.
A spined late fruiting yellow has only 20 buds emerging.
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I'm about to post a thread outlining my new grove which consists of my new design using storm pipe filled with liquid blockfill. No part of it is vulnerable to the elements and unlike treated posts there are no nasty chemicals to worry about.
Getting there, has been a massive undertaking.
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So you are using the PVC as the backbone of the structure so to speak? no need for heavy internal reo bars. I take it you are using 100mm stormwater pipe because it has a thicker wall and is more durable than 90mm PVC stormwater pipe?
Do you have a way of treating the PVC for the vine to grip on it's way to the top?
.
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I'm about to post a thread outlining my new grove which consists of my new design using storm pipe filled with liquid blockfill. No part of it is vulnerable to the elements and unlike treated posts there are no nasty chemicals to worry about.
Getting there, has been a massive undertaking.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/faces/popcorn_zps60162652.jpg)
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So you are using the PVC as the backbone of the structure so to speak? no need for heavy internal reo bars. I take it you are using 100mm stormwater pipe because it has a thicker wall and is more durable than 90mm PVC stormwater pipe?
Do you have a way of treating the PVC for the vine to grip on it's way to the top?
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Yes and no. I made my own rebar from heavy gauge... I don't k ow what you'd call it, grid mesh I suppose, cut into strips the length of the pipe. I considered 100 mil but opted for 90 in the end having been told by a good concretes from the master society that it wouldn't change the game, and 90 mm was cheaper.
My idea of rebar was wrong. The point of rebar is just to give the concrete something to bind to as it hardens, kind of like the way paper mâché artist set this around chicken wire.
I payed for s 4 th of pre mixed cinderfill and it cost me 180 bux. This filled eleven pipes which were already concreted into the ground with a shit tonne left over but that's the smallest amount I could get.
I reckon you could make it yourself pretty easily if you had a mixer, just cement and sand with some bluestone chips.
Finishing of the biochar today and tomorrow to fill all 11 large pots and then all will be revealed.
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Anyone got any ideas of a trellis that's cheap and doesn't need power tools.mine is pretty bad right now
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Anyone got any ideas of a trellis that's cheap and doesn't need power tools.mine is pretty bad right now
Although you need a 1/2" drill; this works and is very popular:
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_kZyrg6JUUwA/RxI7og8nDII/AAAAAAAAADc/z84ebU8SqCw/s1600/dragon_fruit_trellis2.jpg)
from All you need to know about Dragon Fruit - October 2007 http://matanaga.blogspot.com/2007_10_01_archive.html (http://matanaga.blogspot.com/2007_10_01_archive.html)
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Is that "mesh" the same stuff used when pouring cement patios? Seems like a simple set-up.
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Is that "mesh" the same stuff used when pouring cement patios? Seems like a simple set-up.
B I N G O ! !
Yes, simple and not pretty.
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Drummer,
Look my previous post for material lists , so far after more than 10 years, my post still stand firmly with a full grown dragon plant.
Remember the full grown dragon fruit plant will be 100-300 lbs in five or ten years. Make sure your post supports are strong enough to handle the loads and post is not damaged by water or termites (used treated wood or red wood). It is very painful to make another trellis again to support a full grown dragon plant based on my own experiences.
After too many researches, trials and errors :-\ :'( :o :-[ :D, here is my trellis.
Materials:
1. 4x4 treated wood, 12 ft long ( Notes: you can ask Home Depot cut 1/2 for you to make two posts.)(http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Pressure-Treated-Timber-HF-Brown-Stain-Common-4-in-x-4-in-x-12-ft-Actual-3-56-in-x-3-56-in-x-144-in-448909/202287541?keyword=4x4+%2C12+ft+treated+wood (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Pressure-Treated-Timber-HF-Brown-Stain-Common-4-in-x-4-in-x-12-ft-Actual-3-56-in-x-3-56-in-x-144-in-448909/202287541?keyword=4x4+%2C12+ft+treated+wood))
2. 24 in. Grey Groundmaster Post System. (http://www.homedepot.com/p/LTL-Home-Products-24-in-Grey-Groundmaster-Post-System-GM-24/100072482 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/LTL-Home-Products-24-in-Grey-Groundmaster-Post-System-GM-24/100072482))
3. 1/2" steel re-bars, 4-ft long (2 required)(http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weyerhaeuser-1-2-in-x-4-ft-Rebar-35616/202094286 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weyerhaeuser-1-2-in-x-4-ft-Rebar-35616/202094286))
4. 3/8" steel re-bars, 2-ft long (4 required) (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3-8-in-x-24-in-Rebar-140465/202090261 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3-8-in-x-24-in-Rebar-140465/202090261))
5. 3/8" steel re-bars, 1-ft long ( 4 required) (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3-8-in-x-12-in-Rebar-547360/202090383 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-3-8-in-x-12-in-Rebar-547360/202090383))
6. Some galvanized or copper wires
7. 1/2"Plastic pipes (white or grey) (http://www.homedepot.com/p/JM-eagle-1-2-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Schedule-40-Conduit-67447/100122861 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/JM-eagle-1-2-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Schedule-40-Conduit-67447/100122861))
Directions:
I drill two holes 1/2" perpendicular on the 4x4 treated wood, 1-ft from the top, offset about 1/2 inches ( or you cannot insert the 1/2" re-bar perpendicular). Install the 24" post system into ground (check the vertical post with level. Also make sure the square parts above the ground as in a picture). Insert the 4x4 tread into the post system. Tie two nuts. Insert two 1/2" re-bars into 1/2" holes, making even both sides. Use the remained re-bars inserting in 1/2" plastic pipes (cuts as needed) to make two squares with wires, see the pictures.
Tada... You are done. :) Good luck
(http://s8.postimg.cc/53wr51y5t/20141117_160644_1.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/53wr51y5t/)
Small dragon plant on post
(http://s8.postimg.cc/89hcv9gs1/20141117_160722_1.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/89hcv9gs1/)
Two squares with re-bars, 1/2" pipes, and wires.
(http://s8.postimg.cc/hosmuq9f5/20141117_160746_1.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/hosmuq9f5/)
Post system top is above ground level.
This picture is shown the small dragon fruit plant. I still have another trellis with larger plant, covering all two squares, if any one want to see, I will post it later.
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Today I installed a concrete Dragon Fruit support system at a demonstration garden.
(http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/x457/Richard_Renshaw/Pitaya/hansen_4928_zps949c9a8e.jpg)
Now I have seen how it really is done.
http://youtu.be/am6auEq1xZ4 (http://youtu.be/am6auEq1xZ4)
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Hi brad. Not sure if you have got the solution yet to your questions as I have not read this entire thread. But this is how I do it. I Also use a 4x4 treated post and bury it around 2'. Then I did build the t shape at the top of my post and also perpendicular 2x4's for more support. Once the drago fruit reached the top I realized I needed even more support so I added diagonal pieces of 2x4's cut at 45 degree angles (laid flat) and secured them to the existing cross pieces. See pics below. I think it's pretty much as good as it could get at this point
(http://s22.postimg.cc/6smet1dfx/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/6smet1dfx/)
(http://s22.postimg.cc/gonhsoj7x/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/gonhsoj7x/)
(http://s22.postimg.cc/lw3zjeafh/image.jpg) (http://postimg.cc/image/lw3zjeafh/)