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Messages - Millet

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Laidback nice hearing from you again. As for spraying urea to obtain a better fruit crop, that advice was for growers in the northern hemisphere.  You are in the southern hemisphere, so you should spray your trees 1 to 2 months prior to your tree's expected bloom date. 

You can find it on the Internet ----- type in Low Biuret Urea

Waiting, for your neighbor's tree ....... no fertilizing = no growth.

Waiting, does your friend with the Gold Nugget Mandarin regularly fertilize his tree?  For in ground citrus trees a 1 year old tree should be fertilized 6 times per growing season,  A 2 year old tree 5 times per growing season. A 3 year old tree 4 times, and trees 4 years old and older 3 times per growing season.

Vlad, if your trees are already in flower it will not help to increase additional flowering. Urea must be applied prior to the time of irreversible commitment to flowering.  After the tree has already committed to flowering it is to late.  However, applying low biuret urea at most any time during the growing season will always be beneficial as a nutrient ingredient.

Slicko, citrus is more sensitive than most crops to biuret, an impurity present in urea fertilizer created by excessive heating of chemical reactants during urea manufacture.  Toxicity can result from soil or foliar spray applications of urea applications with elevated biuret concentration. If urea is used as a nitrogen source for citrus, it should contain not more than 0.25 - 0.50% biuret by weight.  The leaf symptoms of biuret toxicity appear as an irregular butter yellow chlorosis that starts at the leaf tip.  Young leaves are more vulnerable than old ones, and affected leaves do not regreen.  On very young, expanding leaves, urea with a biuret concentration in excess of 1.0% may cause distortion as well as typical yellowing.  Succeeding growth flushes appear normal, provided applications of High biuret urea is not repeated.

Ilya11,  the absolute correct description of low biuret Urea would be (46-0-0 =or less than 0.5% biuret) or (46-0-0 =>0.5% biuret).  Vlad the surfactant I use is Tween-20 which is also a food grade surfactant. 

Low Biuret urea is defined as 0.5% biuret or lower.

Waiting, nitrogen is one of the most use elements for a citrus tree.  Of all fertilizer nutrients used as a foliar spray on citrus, urea is the most readily accepted nutrient by the tree.  Urea absorbs into the tree through the leaves faster that any other element. It most certainly would help  the tree to get going.  Just be sure the urea you apply is low biuret.  100 grams/ 1-gallon, spray to good coverage, but do not over due it. Spray earlier in the morning or in the evening. Do not spray a citrus tree during the heat of he day.

Phil, that same storm came through here (Colorado) two days ago.  We had a low of -4F.  Today it was sunny with a high of 31-F, and tomorrow should be around 55F. Sorry about your crop.  I have a Seville sour orange that has quite a few fruit on it.  Could you post once again your recipe how to make it.

Luisport, I'm not sure about the blooming period in your area, However, in the future make your low biuret foliar spray about 1 to 2 months prior to the expected bloom date.

Winter prebloom foliar spray application of low Biuret urea is known to greatly increase flower number, thus greater crop yield.  Proper timing is important to achieve the desired outcome.  Winter prebloom sprays are designed to increase flower number and fruit yield without reducing fruit size. Winter prebloom foliar sprays with low biuret urea (46-0-0 >0.5% biuret) is applied at the rate of .44-lbs. (200-grams) in 2 gallon of water plus one teaspoon of a good surfactant per gallon.. For large area sprays (acres) 50-lbs. per 225 gallons water. NOTE: a second low biuret urea foliar spray should also be done after early fruit drop and June drop periods to insure an  increase in fruit size.  In most areas  this would be around July 1 to July 20.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Lemon Tree
« on: January 16, 2018, 11:31:09 AM »
There is not anything you can do now.  You must wait until spring to ascertain what damage has been done.   Good things often come to those who wait.

Citradia,, I thought  you were using heat cubes also.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: What kind of Pomelo is this?
« on: January 13, 2018, 05:05:42 PM »
Below is an Pummello article written by Dan Willey.  It is just one of the many educational articles that he publishes on his web site FRUIT MENTOR.  Dan is a real friend of he citrus industry. This article provides excellent information on pummelo varieties and their requirements.

Citradia, when the going gets tough, the tough get going.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: HLB Getting Worse in California
« on: January 13, 2018, 11:41:20 AM »
arc310, in your post the photo asks residence to report any possible sightings of HLB to the California authorities.  In Matt-citrus post  he did just that, and they as of yet never came out, nor would they do the work, but rather ask him to do all the leg work. Whats that??

Citrus General Discussion / Re: What kind of Pomelo is this?
« on: January 12, 2018, 03:37:22 PM »
Loisport, i do not know the answer to your questions.  If Oscar is selling it, it must be a good variety.   You can contact Tintorri and ask them for information.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: If You Live In California
« on: January 12, 2018, 10:40:46 AM »
here is another specially citrus picked off of 100 year old California citrus trees.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: What kind of Pomelo is this?
« on: January 12, 2018, 10:32:59 AM »
It is called Frutto Rosa.  You can see it on Oscar Tintorri's home page.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Snek ́s citrus container plantation
« on: January 11, 2018, 12:20:15 PM »
From the symptoms shown in the photos by Mtlgirl and Snek the problem does not look like Greasy Spot.    I'm not certain what it is, but also I don't think it is edema, as edema damaged leaves normally do not fall from the tree.  If it is a fungus, applying an effective fungicide normally stops the infection, but of course does not remove the leaf damage already done.                                             

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Accuracy of cold hardiness temperatures?
« on: January 10, 2018, 12:33:33 PM »
At best the information on temperatures that a citrus cultivar can survive are general estimations.  Many, many variables contribute to the survive-ability during a cold spell.  Such as----the temperature just before the cold spell, the water content in the root zone, the age of the tree, the thickness of the trunk and branches, the wind, the length of the freeze, the health of the tree, the root stock, and the particular location the tree is growing in.    Grapefruit is generally listed as one of the more tender varieties, but one hears stories of the Dunstan grapefruit, which in reality is not an actual grapefruit, but rather a Citrumelo.

Adrino, water with temperatures between  70 to 90F (21 to 30C)

When leaves are discarded form a citrus tree, due to WLD (Winter Leaf Drop), they are normally healthy green good looking leaves.

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