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Messages - Millet

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I also have a Dekopon tree growing in the ground and close in proximity with many other citrus varieties. The fruit are always seedless.  As to Dekopon's sweetness, there are two items that you must take into consideration.  First, is the age of the tree.  Older trees produce fruit of much higher quality than young trees.   Second, grafting Dekopon on a tree which other varieties are growing, and then growing that tree as you would any normal citrus tree is not how a Dekopon is supposed to be grown.  A Dekopon tree is supposed to be grown exactly like a peach tree is grown (pruned to keep the tree's interior open to high sunlight)   High sunlight both exterior and interior, PLUS lots of heat will produce sweet and large fruit. You can find information on the Internet on how Dekopon is grown in Japan, where the fruit was developed and is widely grown.

First of all, Oro Blanco is not a grapefruit, but it is semi sweet.  Actual grapefruits are not supposed to be sweet, they are supposed to be tart. Its like asking what is the sweetest lemon. Red Grapefruits are sweeter than white grapefruits . To sweeten up a grapefruit, leave them hanging on the tree until late march.  The hotter the weather the fruit is grown at, and the older the tree, the "sweeter" the grapefruit (note Sweeter was in quotes as no grapefruit is really sweet).  If you want a really sweet fruit, you will probably have to look somewhere else than grapefruit.

Citrus General Discussion / The Wonderful Company
« on: January 16, 2019, 03:49:41 PM »
The Wonderful Company, the growers of Halo mandarins, which are found in stores all over the country, are now the largest farmers in the United States.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: What is wrong with my page mandarin tree?
« on: January 15, 2019, 11:43:21 AM »
It is a nitrogen deficiency. The symptoms of a nitrogen deficiency in citrus are:  Severe --- totally yellow leaves with no variation of color, or yellow/orange veins with some green out on the far sides.  Less severe - Shows up on older leaves with newer leaves still retaining some green.

Citrus are heavy feeders and require more nitrogen and potassium than many other types of fruit trees.   It would be helpful to know the fertilizer you have been using on this tree, and the schedule of application.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: More unusual/obscure cold hardy citrus hybrids
« on: January 13, 2019, 11:00:10 PM »
I believe Ventura is Eyeckr's last name.  I think he developed the Ventura lemon.   He sent me a fruit 3 or 4 years ago.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: More unusual/obscure cold hardy citrus hybrids
« on: January 13, 2019, 09:58:38 AM »
you might be able to get either a fruit or perhaps seed from Eyeckr  a member of this forum.  The lemon is named after him.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Long term cold hardy citrus breeding project
« on: January 12, 2019, 08:11:51 PM »
Certain aspects of citrus flower development derive from the nature of citrus as a tropical/subtropical evergreen which, unlike deciduous fruit trees, does not have true dormancy.  Deciduous fruit trees form flower buds during early summer. These flower buds complete their development prior to the onset of winter dormancy and appear to be ready by the fall for the burst and bloom of the following spring.  In citrus, flower bud differentiation starts during the winter and moves without interruption towards floral development and bloom. The one notable exception is Poncirus trifoliate, a monospecific genus.  Poncirus species has scale protected flower buds which are initiated during summer. Bloom occurs in early spring, on leafless branches which have completely shed their characteristic trifoliate leaves at the beginning of winter. (Biology of Citrus)

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: hybrids with precocious Poncirus
« on: January 12, 2019, 12:14:14 PM »
I read that article, found it very interesting indeed, but rather difficult to completely understand in its entirety.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: citrus grown from seed shows more cold hardiness
« on: January 11, 2019, 03:05:15 PM »
Charles nice seeing you posting again.

It is not recommend spraying extra amounts of Low Biuret urea if you missed one application period. 

edweather,  most definitely spray the underside of the leaves, as the underside of the leaf contains by far the most stomata (openings) in the leaf.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Cushiony Cotton scale
« on: January 10, 2019, 09:16:23 PM »
Yorgos, never spray ANYTHING whatsoever when the tree has open flowers in full bloom

911311, not all Flying Dragon seed are true to type.  Approximately only 50 percent of Flying Dragon seed will produce true to type, no matter the age of the mother tree.  Flying Dragon as a cultivar always has zigzag stems and strongly curved thorns.  It is an easy way (without a DNA test) of selecting predominantly true clonal FD seedlings, while discarding those which are obviously and definitely  genetically different.  All straight stemmed and straight thorn are not FD. 

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Lemon ID
« on: January 08, 2019, 12:51:38 PM »
Difficult to say.

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Cushiony Cotton scale
« on: January 08, 2019, 12:49:53 PM »
Ilya11 what reaction do you think the enzyme (there are at least 6 different protepytic emymes) has on the scale?

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Potted Key Lime - suddenly losing leaves
« on: January 08, 2019, 12:32:42 PM »
In Garyk's tree case I don't think temperature is much of a concern, as the tree are evidently indoors and not out in the weather, 

911311 wrote   >FD with no mix gene of the standard poncirus will be about 5' to 6' tall no matter how old it is<

The above quote is not what occurs. FD does dwarf a large citrus variety such as Cara Cara, Navels, Valencia etc. approximately 1/2 of what the cultivar would normally grow.  Many cultivars not on dwarfing rootstocks mature out at 25-feet in height +-,  on FD approximately 1/2 of that..

Citrus General Discussion / Re: Cushiony Cotton scale
« on: January 07, 2019, 06:04:52 PM »
Shout probably works like a soap/detergent spray.

SoCal2warm, all of my trees are growing inside of a large greenhouse on our farm.  The green house was originally used to start various plants that we then mechanically transplanted into our farm fields.  For the last 20 years we have all of our fields planted into wheat, so we no longer use the greenhouse.  I then converted the greenhouse into my hobby greenhouse.  I have 9 citrus trees and one pomegranate that are  planted in the ground inside the greenhouse.  They are all large trees.  There are also approximately 50 pineapples, and 30 container citrus trees planted in mostly 13-gallon containers.  I also have a large New Zealand Lemonade tree in a 3 cubic foot container.  Plus the normal misc. items like tomatoes, orchids and etc.

911311 my Cara Cara is on true FD rootstock.  In fact all of my trees are grafted upon FD, with the exception of trees grown from seed.  They are of course on their own roots.  I have a Saint Dominic's Sour Orange tree grown from seed planted in 2005. It is now 9-feet tall and has fruited for the last 2 years.

Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citrus pollen preservation
« on: January 06, 2019, 06:28:15 PM »
Excellent post Ilya11

911311 wrote   >"I would prefer FD because it will dwarf any citrus to about 5 to 6 feet tall"<

Trees indeed grow much slower on FD, then they do on other rootstocks, and the rootstock does have  dwarfing properties..  But in time they will produce trees much taller than 5 to 6 feet.  I have a 20 year old Cara Cara that is grafted upon FD root stock.  The tree is now 11-ft tall and 15-ft. wide.

Citrus trees are more susceptible to cold damage during the tree's first 5 years.  A citrus tree will freeze from the top to the bottom and from the outside to the inside.  Flowers are the first tissue to freeze, followed by tender new growth such as leaves and twigs.  Younger tissues will be more affected than older tissues, and smaller diameter wood before larger diameter wood. Young developing fruits will freeze before mature fruits. The smaller the size of the fruit, the faster it will freeze.  Fruits with thin peels will freeze faster than fruits with thick peels.  Freeze damage occurs when ice forms inside the citrus tissue. Some guidelines, though not hard and fast rules to the minimum temperatures that types of citrus trees can survive without damage to leaves and branches are.....Limes 29-F, lemons and grapefruit 26-F, Meyer lemon 22-F, oranges and mandarins 21-F and kumquat 19-F.  Research data indicates trees growing on bare ground have a higher probability of survival than trees growing on turf.  This is because heat from the bare ground radiates stored heat upwards into the tree's canopy.  The difference in the canopy of the tree can be up to 5 degrees warmer. (taken from my notes of Malcolm Manners).

I don't believe you are foolishly protecting them.  Its your hobby, and a man needs a good hobby.  The best to you and your trees.

Spaugh, what really occurs in citrus fruit is that cold weather reduces the acid content of the fruit, which could make a fruit seem to have more sweetness (although the amount of sugars actually says the same).  It is the balance (ratio) between the fruit's acid and the sugar content that provides the quality to citrus. A fruit with little or no acid content is called insipid.

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