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Messages - Orkine

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If I end up with a couple of extra sticks, sat 2 or 3, anyone local to the palm beach area interested?
No guarantees I will have spares but if I do and there is someone in the Palm Beach or Jupiter area that is interested pm me.
Pm sent
Check your PM.
Urgent and time sensitive.

Lots of rain in West Palm Beach and a fair amount up in Jupiter too.  I moved some mulch to see if it was saturate and unfortunately it was not.  The ground outside the mulched area is very wet though and not just at the surface but at least down to six inches or more.

Very pleased, except sulfur that I sprayed in the last few days must have been washed off and I got enough wind that knocked off a few fruits.  I hope the rest stay on,  Looking forwards to lots-a mangoes this year.

Thanks, I have a lot of drops to go then.   :)

I intend to irrigate and fertilize this year, a practice I heather-to had not done consistently.

I am also using fungicide and I can already tell the difference in cleaner fruit to this point.

I was gone for a few days and what had been a couple of flowers on one mango tree had become a full fledged late flowering on 3 trees.
I sprayed some sulfur as part of regime to keep powdery mildew at bay.  It rained about an hour later.  fairly heavy shower too and will likely have rain showers in the next day or two.
My question is, should I consider the current application a bust and spray as son as I get a good dry day or should I assume I got some benefit from this application and wait a little?

Also, the trees that flowered dropped a fair amount of fruits a couple the size of golf balls, most about the size of a grape.  Is this normal and what can I do to limit fruit drop.

Happy it rained, it had been bone dry for a while.  I think that may be more to blame for the fruit drop.  I wet the trees twice a week during the driest period, not sure if I let the irrigation run long enough though.

In case it matters, biggest culprit is a Choc-anon, about 12 feet tall.

If I end up with a couple of extra sticks, sat 2 or 3, anyone local to the palm beach area interested?
No guarantees I will have spares but if I do and there is someone in the Palm Beach or Jupiter area that is interested pm me.
Pm sent
Got it, we are good.

If I end up with a couple of extra sticks, sat 2 or 3, anyone local to the palm beach area interested?
No guarantees I will have spares but if I do and there is someone in the Palm Beach or Jupiter area that is interested pm me.

Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Re: Garcinia seedling
« on: April 02, 2018, 10:38:42 PM »
I will be in Fort Myers for the kids sporting event this weekend.
Check PM

Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Garcinia seedling
« on: April 01, 2018, 05:34:26 PM »
Luc's (mexican), Lemon drop mangosteen (Intermedia??)
Or any other you can talk me into.

SO I plant and love mangos.  I am trying atemoya and recently got interested in Garcinia (stuff I read on the forum).
I should be getting some seeds soon curtsy a generous forum member.  I am interested in getting a seedling or two though and Luc's is talked about a lot, also lemon drop.

So does anyone, preferably in Florida have seedlings to sell or trade?

PM me.

Use custard Apple as inter stock .
Thanks for the suggestion, it shows as compatible on the table.  May try that next if my current experiment fails.

I will need to find budwood for custard apple.  Perhaps that is easier to come by.

I am beginning to thinks some cherimoya may be graft compatible with pond apple, at least better than atemoya.

I did a thorough inspection of the trees and in addition to the Licia it appears boothe and white also appear to be growing.  Inca red did not take.


So I tried several atemoya and a few cherimoya varieties on my pond apple.
Just about all the atemoya have now failed.  Some put out leafs but I guess it was the energy left in JFs superb scion.  The leaves dried up.

I also tried some cherimoya and atemoya I got from another forum member and for now it looks like the Licia may be a take.  I want to test this to see if this is the interstock I am looking for.  Of course, that is assuming other things will take on Licia.

So wish me luck, I am looking for Licia scion to graft on.

Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Looking for Licia scion
« on: March 29, 2018, 11:07:54 PM »
Need licia cherimoya budwood

Seanny, the pots don't have a base.  It's a flat long panel curved back onto itself to form a cylinder open on both ends, a bottomless pot.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Where to get best deal on 0-0-50
« on: March 19, 2018, 09:06:26 PM »
I am interested in getting some Sulfate of Potash (Potassium Sulfate) for my mangoes.

I understand I want granular form and will use often but in small quantities.

Any recommendations on where to purchase some to get the best value.

Also, what quantity to buy, Amazon has 5 lb bags, 2 for $26 delivered.  I have a dozen or so mango trees.  Should I get a 50 lb bag or is 10 lb all I need?  Does it keep?

By the way, liking the discussion on the slow release fertilizer thread.  Didn't want to hijack with this question.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: On a lighter note - describing my soil
« on: March 18, 2018, 11:12:02 AM »
Perhaps a little context, I have a canal or ditch to the back of my house, when the water level is low in the canal it drains my site.  When the water level is high, due to management or flooding from upstream coming through, it wets my land.  Right now, the water level in the canal is very low.  After Irma (actually worse in the storm right after) it was high, high enough to actually spill over and fish were swimming on parts of the yard.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / On a lighter note - describing my soil
« on: March 18, 2018, 11:04:07 AM »
So I was watering the other day, its been very dry, and whatever I put on the ground just disappears.
As I watched a thought crossed my mind.
My soil is really well drained except when it is flooded.
I couldn't help but laugh at how strange that came out, well drained and flooded.
The more I thought about it the less absurd it sounded.
A low lying well drained soil could be flooded.
So can I describe my soil as well drained except when flooded?
Which strange soil descriptions have you seen?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: hog plum - mombin question
« on: March 18, 2018, 10:58:10 AM »
Not much flower this year yet. 
Possibly post Irma stress or just not time but one a few are starting to show.
Last year there were very many but no fruits.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Is my carrie mango a goner?
« on: March 17, 2018, 10:02:22 PM »
Many years ago I was in exactly the same situation and actually cut back the tree with the intent of uprooting and replacing.  Some things came up and I did not get to it for a couple of weeks.  When I was ready to pull the tree I saw it had sprouted.  I let it bee and it grew into a fine tree.  It was essentially an unintended pug, induced by severe cold.

I say give it some time.

I believe shipping is per order not per seed.

Not trying to hijack this thread but what should one do if you have this situation where a tree has established root in the ground through a small pot?
Cut out the pot and build a mound to match the height of the dirt in the pot
Leave it be
Make holes on the side of the pot to let roots out and mound dirt to cover the holes but leave rest of pot in place?

I have some wet areas that are not very useful for anything but pond apple does well on.
I have tried a couple of cycles of direct grafting and have arrived at the same conclusion, it wont work with my type of pond apple.
The current graft looks like a successful take but start t die back.  This is why I am considering the interstock option to see if this can make the spots in my yard usable.

I like to try and half the fun is experimenting.  I also want some atemoya and the experiments are not exactly cheap :) so this go around I did a couple of grafts on some cherimoya seedlings I started last year.  Hope those stay.

Still interested in interstock if anyone has ideas and wood.

KarenRei, nice picture, tells my story though my wet areas are nothing close to whats in your picture.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: hog plum - mombin question
« on: March 10, 2018, 08:22:03 PM »
Maybe 8 to 9 feet to the tip of the tallest branch.  It is bare now and there are two branches that would be about that high.  If I pruned those back, then I will say about a 7 to 8 foot plant. Most of the other branches are in the 5 to 7 feet range off the ground.

I could take a picture during the day and post.

Why did you ask?

Tropical Fruit Discussion / hog plum - mombin question
« on: March 10, 2018, 07:33:27 PM »
Four or five years ago I got a June plum and Hog plum.  I wanted something that would fruit fast and was not too large.

The hog plum has flowered a couple of times and is tarting again now but has never borne fruit.  Its a nice size, not a single leaf (typical this time of year), and beginning to push those tine red flowers on the bare stem.  What can I do to make it set fruit this year?  If I cant is this a good enough fruit to keep trying or should I lop it off and recover the space?  Yeah, yeah, I know taste is subjective but I still want your opinion if you know this fruit.

The June plum has had three seasons of fruit already and I have tried the fruit.  It has a few fruits still on from last season.  Problem is I am beginning to eye its spot  :-[

Perhaps for an atemoya or mango seedling currently in a pot.  It will have to be a compact grower though, its not a huge spot.

I was reading an IFAS paper on Atemoya in Florida  The authors point out noted
 "Atemoya is not graft compatible with pond apple and therefore the use of an interstock is required"

I am trying Atemoya on pond apple and for now it looks like I have a couple of takes but I know they can still fail.
My question is, do any of you know what interstock works?
The authors used "49-11" which they described as " a 'Gefner' atemoya x A. reticulata hybrid"
Does anyone have scions of this hybrid?  or any tested interstock?

I intend to continue trying different atemoya on pond apple but I am open to try using this two step approach to get there.

I know there is a chart on the forum of graft compatibility and will be searching for it all afternoon :)

By the way, all is not lost.  After last years limited success, I started some cherimoya for root stock and some of my graft this year on 1 year old seedlings of cherimoya.

Found the table

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Time to water?
« on: March 09, 2018, 09:08:18 PM »
I've recently been removing stumps of large trees on my property with an excavator which has been informative regarding tree root growth on the site. Though I didn't dig up any mango trees I will take a picture later today of the exposed root system of a large mango tree on a neighbor's property which was overturned by hurricane Irma. I'm also digging an irrigation pipe trench across the property and observe some variation at least in the top 18".

My soil type is the most common in Florida, Myakka. The soil is gray sand topsoil which lightens to white sand about 18" down, then becomes very dark brown in a highly compact layer.
As seen in the video Cookie Monster referenced, mine is very close to what is shown here:

The change in soil color matches the summertime high water table, and also matches the maximum depth of root development I've seen in the stumps removed and in the overturned mango tree. This zone of compacted soil representing the high water table also represents the zone of oxygen deprivation below which few roots can exist regardless of what you do. I can track water table by nearby ponds which vary according to the water level.

This reference "Tree roots: Facts and Myths" shows a lot about how tree roots grow.

I find it amazing how wide tree roots can go, how they graft together, how one root can feed one segment of canopy, how the microfauna infinitely extend the root zone, and all the other factors we don't even know about.

I know there are many other soil profiles around and yours may be quite different. Some have soil similar to mine. If you find a nearby excavation, find a tree root system exposed or even use a post hole digger you can get an idea of what you have. So, when to water really depends on your soil and the more you can learn & observe locally the better you will know what to do about it.

This reference "Tree roots: Facts and Myths" shows a lot about how tree roots grow.

I read the attached report, fascinating, who'd have thunk it.
I knew that many roots hand close to the surface but also believed that many go deeper forming something close to the illustration.  Is there additional research that support this paper?  Please link.

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