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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: ID seedling ??
« Last post by roblack on Today at 06:52:49 PM »
1st one looks like peanut butter plant to me.
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Brutal heatwave 7/06/18 in Socal
« Last post by behlgarden on Today at 06:52:39 PM »
Out here in Riverside I have my trees covered with 30% shade cloth (younger trees) and I thought they held up well to that heat wave. But over a couple days they started showing the damage black sun burns on stems, roasted new growth, shriveled and dropped all fruit and now my little Mallika looks like it may be dead.

That said it looks like the best may have kicked my lancetilla that has sat around and done nothing for almost a year into growth.

Should I leave the shade cloth up the rest of the summer or just let it best down on them?

My manilla in the ground with no protection got roasted too.... But not much worse than the others

I wasnt here when the brutal heatwave occured & i lost the mangoes i have on sweetart and some minor leaf damage.

However, my 3 gals mango i received a month ago from florida took the brutal heatwave like a champ considering they get more sun than of the sweetart.

I noticed one thing in my yard post heat wave:
1. Mango plants that were holding fruit or blooms/fruit took a beating. I am talking about grafts and branches drying and dying 6-8 inches.
2. Mango plants that were young OR not holding any fruits/blooms, were unscratched  or very little leaf tip burn. More importantly, plants that withheld without damage were in the hottest west side that also gets radiant heat reflected from west wall of my house.

I ask others to review and confirm this. I confirmed this with another fellow Gardner and it was exactly his case too.
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Brutal heatwave 7/06/18 in Socal
« Last post by Lionking on Today at 06:32:03 PM »
It’s sounding like we AZ growers need to pass along a few tricks to our so. Cal brothers.  In no particular order....50% ( min) shade cloth on the west side for at least the first summer ( maybe two depending on growth rate).  Larger root mass= better survival rate, so I mostly plant 7 gal trees, minimum.  IF you have good drainage, mangos can handle a lot of water.  If not, they rot out during heatwaves when you water every two days.  I do DEEP watering three or four times in the spring to encourage deep rooting.
 I grow a variety of silica accumulating plants to use as mulch, Vetiver grass topping that list.  I also spray a few times in the spring to make sure the plant accumulated enough silica to withstand the heat.  I also have worked to develop a microclimate that provides shade and humidity.  Fast growing trees that can be chopped down in a few years are a great way of accomplishing this (morniga, tipu, ash,jacaranda, etc).
Plants have to be in good shape by the time June hits.  I will gladly sacrifice a little growth in the spring by not pushing fruiting too young in order to have a healthier tree with better caliper growth.
I dig planting holes a year in advance and provide a lot of drainage via gravel, stones, pumice, etc. mixed with my planting mix.  This allows compensation for settling, as well as establishment of fungal populations which can help augment roots.  I will also will plant in Fall and baby plants thru winter if they are slower growing varieties.  That gives a bit more root mass by the time June hits the next year.  I can more easily compensate for our cool temps than I can for our brutal, dry summers....Fast growers like LZ and Peach Cobbler always do better in our heat than slower varieties.  Dig BIG planting holes so roots can spread as fast as possible. 
As long as the trees are in good shape during heat, I continue to fertilize lightly with fish emulsion (50% of recommended rate).  This seems to allow for rapid recovery once our temps cool a bit and humidity rises again.  If not in good shape, focus on moisture management and just getting the tree to survive.  Danger zone is >105 and/or winds.  I ignore crispy leaves and any crisped new growth and focus on keeping soil moist, not soggy, and do a quick hand misting in the AM and evenings to provide some relief to the younger plants.
Finally, I find a bit of amino acids and maybe a little superthrive seems to help avoid the worst damage.  Absolutely avoid strong fertilization during heat.  Trying to help by adding too much ‘stuff’ to your regimen is counter productive.
I hope this helps people.  We in AZ are in uncharted territory when it comes to growing mango, so I hope my observations can help others avoid the 10 years of mistakes I have made.

Thanks for the advice DesertDreamer,
We have some triple digit weather forecasted for our area of So.Cal starting this coming Monday the 23rd lasting thru Thursday the 26.   Hottest days being Tues and Wed. @ 104.
Your advice came at the perfect time.
Pineislander is talking to Jim, so if there's material to be shared I expect he'll get it this year and be sending it out from next year's harvest. Though I wouldn't mind talking to Jim myself to see if he knows of additional sources for other varieties.

As for eBay, all the currently available bulbifera growers I've tried are selling theirs as medicinal, not edible, so there's nothing there.

I'm still waiting on a reply from YouTube's Plant Assasin, as well as a guy from India who blogged about seeing (and I think growing) three Asian cultivars (seemingly Suavior, judging from the prominent lenticels). I don't know if I'm expecting too much, considering the date of that post (2015), but I really hope he replies. Blog here. I'm considering contacting the Agricultural University mentioned in the blog post, but I'm not exactly sure how I'd go about it... That said, their variety is an improved Suavior developed by them, so I'd consider it important. I think I'll contact them sooner or later, though I'm not sure they'd be willing to ship to a random overseas grower.

I found out today that Rare Palm Seeds is selling D. bulbifera as a new item. After some trial and error figuring out the proper extensions, I called their office in Germany and confirmed that it is an edible Asian type. I combined it with Chachafruto / Basul (Erythrina edulis) to meet the 30 euro minimum and placed an order. Page link here, ordering link here.
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / wtb Persian mulberry cuttings
« Last post by TnTrobbie on Today at 06:05:54 PM »
pm me.
Tropical Fruit Discussion / ID seedling ??
« Last post by greenman62 on Today at 05:49:15 PM »
i have 2 seedlings
old soil and no tags.
can anyone ID them ??

also in the 2nd pic, there has been no new growth in months
and ive added fertilizer, iron, magnesium, and fish emulsion.
not sure what else to do
and the leaves have started curling under.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Citrus leaf pic - iron deficiency?
« Last post by Coach62 on Today at 05:48:54 PM »
Mainly on new growth.  My citrus has had a very hard year.  They were stressed by Irma, under water for over 2 weeks from the Irma flood, then heavily, and I mean heavily attacked by leaf miners this spring.

It's a wonder I have any citrus trees left. 
We’re growing Shwehintha. It’s pretty good. Similar flavor to Maha Chanok.

Fairchild had this one the display table for years.  We bought from their fruit stand, when they had one.  It was among my daughters faves.  All this time I thought it was from India.
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Future's Florida Fruit Feast 8
« Last post by Future on Today at 05:45:39 PM »
"Under the weather". Could only manage to engage pineapple pleasure.  Just as good as the last one.
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mulberry and Lychee recommendations.
« Last post by Coach62 on Today at 05:45:22 PM »
I know you're a long distance from Lee county, but I think this is something we all need to know, just in case.  I got this email a week or so ago.

Dear Growers,
The Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services has put an immediate quarantine in place for all of Lee County due to the presence of a major pest of lychee, Aceria litchii, known as lychee erinose mite.  This pest has been found in several locations in Lee County including in lychee groves on Pine Island, and on residential properties and plant nurseries in other areas of the county.
To prevent the further spread of this major pest, the department is prohibiting the movement of lychee fruit or plant parts (trees, leaves or stems) out of the county.

There is more to this letter, but you get the gist.  I had just bought one a couple of months ago, so I'm watching it carefully, I'm one county south. 
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