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Would you happen to have pictures of how much of a crack is needed ?
I have some Ilama seeds that I would like to try this method on.
I just don’t rust myself and feel like I will crush the seeds...lol
I added a picture I took when doing one of the tests. The key is to have the seeds completely dry, meaning no soaking beforehand etc. A dry seed will pop with just a little pressure.
I thought I'd share this with people who couldn't handle the GA3 method. I've been experimenting with ways to germinate super hard seeds like those of Ilama's. Below are 2 ways anybody could do to germinate Ilama seeds in about 3 weeks without messing with GA3. And by germinating I mean the root starts to come out. It take a few more days for the seedling to pop out of the soil.
Both methods use a common setup:
- Heat mat
- Tupperware or plastic sheobox
- 2 inches of Coco coir
- This first method is the quickest as the seeds germinate in about 2 weeks
. Completely dry the seeds
. Gently crack the seeds with a seed cracker or plyer. Same method use for Mamey seeds.
The idea is to create a small opening to let humidity in SLOWLY to wake up the seeds
DO NOT CRUSH THE SEEDS when cracking them- This second method is slower as it'd take about 3 weeks. Canistel seeds work great with this method as well.
. Remove the seed husk completly
. Cover only half of the seed
Spray new growth with a full micronutrient mix plus extra Copper, per labels, to correct deficiencies of Copper, Zinc, Iron and Manganese, and to suppress Powdery Mildew.
Shipping is 8$ in southern CA. I ship in an 18" long box. So 20$PM sent
I have other types also if people want other DF types.
No fruit yet, I think Simons plants are very close. Ive got some smaller clones of his plants growing in the greenhouse here.
I am really surprised more people dont want these.
Price reduced, 12$ per cutting as long as I can fit in a 18" box.
I have a lot of these long cuttings still and only a few people bought some. Ive got about 20 plants already growing and dont need these cuttings. These are Palora seedlings.
SoCal Mamey the hardiest fruiting Mamey in the USA maybe in the planet at 34 latitude that would be like fruiting Mamey in Noth Carolina.
$7 per scions 10 pieces minimum
California hardy Mamey scions have been sold out. Here are some more pix for f this super hardy Mamey. I’ll have some super hardy Mamey Colorado, on request only, from Yucatán grown in SoCal
Hey Frank,
Just wanted to say it was great to finally meet you.
Thank you for the trees and for the tour of your awesome trees.
Looking forward to seeing you again soon when the anona is ready.
Hi Gabe
My pleasure So r. I hope to see you in the atemoya tasting later this winter lots of fruits for sale.
Frank
Not sure of the variety but this here is a picture of the one I tried. Not as dark yellow as yours. More like a pineapple color
You might get an ID on it if you have a photo of the skin. Ive grown a lot of types of melons and so far orangeglo is the winner. Sugar baby, icebox from rene is good, crimson sweets I have growing but havent tried. Simon had a list of good ones in a thread. Some Japanese types were there. Im going to try the georgia rattlesnake and a few other types next year. Maybe experiment growing some small types over fall and winter.
Enjoy
Definitely go for the orangeglo, they are better than the desert kings although Im still experimenting with desert king and letting them grow longer. They are harder to know when to pick.
https://www.rareseeds.com/store/vegetables/watermelon/
I never really cared for watermelons until growing my own. They are so tastey and refeshing. Everyone should grow them. They are easy to grow and fast.
Picked this beauty today. 23lb "desert king" watermelon. We already picked a few and they are excellent.
"85 days. This watermelon produces 20-lb fruits that have a light pea-green rind that is resistant to sunburning. It is also one of the most drought-resistant varieties of watermelon known. It has sweet, yellow flesh and is very popular in the watermelon-growing areas of Arkansas. Good for storage."
Had the bottle of vodka leftover from thanksgiving a few years ago out in the garage fridge. I think its a sign to mix the 2.
Some recent photos of my yard
Heres a new area Im going to put 25 or 30 mango trees on. Theres 12 or so there now.
This plumeria I got a stick off a golf course in Kauai on my honeymoon. This year will be our 10th aniversery.
Some fruit trees and bushes
Young ardith tree grows really nice. No problems in the heat.
CA rolls and home grown avo, extra avo please. Wish sashimi grew on trees.
Sweet tart seedling
DF blooms
Big Passifloras
Raja puri bananas
6 month old stone fruit trees look great.
Seed solos from a few months ago. These things love heat.
Now growing fast in ground
Poms
Watermelon patch June 1st
8 weeks later
Mandarin fruit set
A few mango seeds
GH saves my plants in the heatwave
Some tomatoes. Single vine cherries
DF plants
Keep the bees and birds happy
Any day now on these........
Lychee and grapes
Guava fruit set
Lionking,
the sun rise on East and fall on West. The side that get morning sun is the East side.
Lionking means that he has a taller block wall on the west and east sides of his property. So his post is a correct statement. I have a similar situation as to what he described.
Yes Warren, you are absolutely correct.
My thought is that as the sun rises, it would shine on my trees in the early morning heating them up gradually as the day goes by. Where as in the mid to late afternoon when sun is at full heat, it is scorching the trees till goes down.
The taller block wall on the west side will be providing the shade and some relief to the trees near it towards the end of the day.
So I am curious if that is a good idea or should I leave them where they are at on the east side?
Lionking....it's okay to leave them on the east side block wall. I have 7 trees on the east side wall and 3 trees on the west side wall. They all seem to be doing equally well. Of course the trees along the north side wall get the most sun...but also got scorched the most too.
Lionking,
the sun rise on East and fall on West. The side that get morning sun is the East side.
Lionking means that he has a taller block wall on the west and east sides of his property. So his post is a correct statement. I have a similar situation as to what he described.
Lionking, I would put them into ground once they stay in your pot for 6 weeks or so, carefully put one in ground and then next after first makes it.
Mid 90's in corona is perfect weather. What is your forecast?
The first heat wave was brutal. This one didn’t do as much damage but still did a number on my grafts that were still holding on. Like Frank, I also lost my multi branch graft as well as one mango tree with Lemon Meringue graft has bitten the dust.
On another note, my lemon zest is pushing new growth as well as my Pineapple pleasure and my new Orange Sherbet trees are liking the heat. I have kept the 2 OS trees indoors by the slider glass door for heat and ventilation. They are looking real nice.
One question I do have.... at my house, my yard gets the early sun on the west side of my property with shade on the east side where I have been keeping my potted trees. Towards the evening, the sun is beaming the east side of my yard where my trees are while the west side is now getting shade. My question is...should I move my plants to get the early sun on the west side instead of keeping them in the early shade? I feel that the later heat/sun that is hitting the trees is more intense .
Any thoughts or advice is appreciated. Am I wrong in thinking that way? Does the afternoon heat do better for the trees?
You asked for advice so here it goes from 3000 miles away.
Fruit trees are 5-10-15-20 years projects.
So do the utmost to shield your fruit trees from what is passing and temporary and just this year.
SHEILD them via extra hose watering and shading them and you will be rewarded in future years as they thrive.
