Grafting Stone fruits is very easy. Just look up a video on YouTube. You need to graft when the branches are dormant. I like to graft several weeks to a month before I expect the trees to come out of dormancy.
There are also plenty of great mango grafting videos. If you have any specific questions, just ask here. Good luck!
Simon
Thank you for your suggestions. I tried grafting 5 or so scions early November and all of them failed. I am afraid to try more. I remember Gary Zill was stressing about cambium layer on several of his YouTube videos, I have no clue how does cambium layer look like. I would love to see when someone does grafting in person. Please let me know when you do.
Your timing is definitely off. But i would wait to regraft until there are at least 3 days with day time temp over 75f and night time temps over 55f. Previous years i had 5% success rate with peach tree grafts. Then last year i took the advice of some posters on another forum which indicated that for some stone fruits warmer temps are necessary for the grafts to callous. I received scionwood in january and waited until warmer weather in march. Surprisingly i had 100% takes in peach cleft grafts. I dont think my knife skills improved all that much in one year so i put it down to waiting for warmer weather and storing scion wood in the refrigerator with ziploc bags with moist towel.
You don't need that kind of warmth. With decent cleft grafts on peach done in January with healthy scion wood and rootstock, you should get close to 100% success.
+1 about the warmth needed for grafting peaches and cherries. Not required.
A week after I grafted mine in January it snowed and the temps dropped severly. I just made sure I wrapped my grafts with parafilm. I'm pretty sure this helps quite a bit as the healing process is slowed down when it's colder especially during the nights but the sun stills shines warm during the day.
If the scionwood is thinner than the rootstock I suggest side whip and tongue.
Here's the result 6 months later....
You can also use chip budding. I wrap the chip with electrical tape leaving only the bud sticking out. I still cover it with parafilm just to be safe.... I top the rootstock and I find that the bud pushes really strong.
The reason I wrap the graft in electrical tape is because at this time of the year the callous grows fast and strong but it does so irregularly and it's not rare that I find the chip is popped out on one side.
The electrical tape is pretty strong and it makes sure eventhough the callous pushes out one section, the rest of the cambium layers always stays in contact until the callous has worked its way of over it