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Messages - Ilya11

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1
Some years ago I was using solutions of different concentrations of Epsom salt MgSO4 instead of water for palm tree protection.
This permits to have a more gradual heat liberation due to the liquid/solid phase transition

2
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citsuma Prague
« on: January 11, 2018, 07:43:32 AM »
Sylvain,
I do not fully understand:does this mean that seedlings that you showed were from monoebryonic seeds with white cotyledons?

3
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citsuma Prague
« on: January 11, 2018, 03:44:38 AM »
Snek,
I have the same problem with theguy from Brno, his first reply was very complete and helpful, but he has not replied to my further questions. I am not a botanists either, but in my previous life ( I am retired now) I was working in Molecular Biology and Human Genetics and know perfectly the method that was used by them. It is not the best way to resolve the chimerism, the simplest one is just to use one or two plastid DNA marker that distinguish poncirus and unshiu.

4
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Snek ́s citrus container plantation
« on: January 11, 2018, 03:34:21 AM »
Snek,
I am not aware of specific fungicides to treat citrus Greasy spot disease

"Treatment for greasy spot fungus is easy enough. The best treatment around is to use one of the copper fungicides out there and spray the tree with it. Use the copper fungicide according to directions in order to kill the citrus tree fungus."


https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/citrus/greasy-spot-fungus.htm

I participate in homecitrus.ru, but can not download the photos here, they are very strict on this point. :(

5
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Citsuma Prague
« on: January 10, 2018, 03:22:01 PM »
In  experiments done in MU Brno one symmetrical peak of genome size was observed, but they have not performed a crucial control demonstrating that an artificial mixture of nuclei from poncirus and unshiu  gives two distinct genome sizes.

6
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Snek ́s citrus container plantation
« on: January 10, 2018, 03:12:00 PM »
Snek,
You see,  the link above is on the 11 page topic on Meyer disease with 218 posts.
You are right, it starts with a description (  a translation from English) of citrus Greasy spot disease.
In the following discussion people share their failed experience in treating it with various fungicides and mineral oils ( to prevent new spore germination) as well as on the absence of  contagion infection of nearby citruses, a unique features distinguishing it from Greasy spot.
Viral hypothesis as well as environmental factors are discussed with no conclusion. Apparently it is not  lethal, most of plants recover , but intermitting character of the affection does not permit to fully get rid of it.

7
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Snek ́s citrus container plantation
« on: January 10, 2018, 06:18:34 AM »
Snek,
It is widely discussed on Russian and Ukrainian citrus forums, the symptoms are very similar to yours,   if you can read Russian, here is one extensive topic on this disease
http://forum.homecitrus.ru/topic/10267-bolezn-zhirnye-piatna-bolezn-limonov-mejera/

8
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Snek ́s citrus container plantation
« on: January 10, 2018, 04:15:53 AM »
It is very common in Eastern Europe and there it is called "Meyer disease", only Meyer lemons are affected. Fungicides are not working, no radical cure has been found up to now.

9
My be the solution is in  less water retention due to a better drainage, not just in the height of container.

10
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Can you overmulch citrus in San Diego?
« on: December 25, 2017, 09:13:42 AM »
Bush2Beach,
If you care for the Earth, you should not disturb a desert at all. :'(

11
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: keraji mandarin
« on: December 22, 2017, 04:10:16 AM »
Keraji is more cold resistant than Morton citrange.

12
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Long term cold hardy citrus breeding project
« on: December 21, 2017, 12:23:16 PM »
Llya11, no I think seeds would be OK.  I have sent seeds of various citrus cultivars to Europe and Asia, and by the time they arrived 60 percent  were dead or damaged.   I assume that poncirus+ is as slow growing as regular poncirus, therefore how many years do you think it would take from germination to fruiting.?
Of course it depends on conditions, when grown in the winter under the lamps for two years and then planted outside I observe that most of the poncirus seedlings flower in 5-7 years.

13
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Long term cold hardy citrus breeding project
« on: December 21, 2017, 10:46:17 AM »
Millet,
The seeds, are they also restricted?

14
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Long term cold hardy citrus breeding project
« on: December 20, 2017, 03:06:34 PM »
Walt,
Bernhard Voss from Hamburg succeeded to produce a deciduous hybrid between Ichangensis and Poncirus that resist to -21C (USDA zone 6b).
It is listed as  "Neuzüchtung" at his site, also has a name N2tri.
I have it, not flowering yet, but it is shredding all leaves in early November.

15
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Long term cold hardy citrus breeding project
« on: December 19, 2017, 05:39:40 PM »
Poncirus+ is a chance seedling of trifoliata growing near Yalta, Crimea.
It was found by Forward,  the old  member of CitrusGrowers forum. He posted some photos of it on the  Ukrainian citrus forum.

http://citrusforum.org.ua/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=86&start=210

Google translation ;D
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=fr&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fcitrusforum.org.ua%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ff%3D57%26t%3D86%26start%3D210&sandbox=1

16
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Long term cold hardy citrus breeding project
« on: December 19, 2017, 02:39:45 PM »
Walt,
Both Swamp Lemon and Poncirus+ were described on defunct CitrusGrowers forum.
Below is an extract of this discussion presented by Sylvain on the AgrumesPassion French forum
http://www.agrumes-passion.com/poncirus-citranges-porte-greffes-rustiques-f67/topic5861.html

Poncirus+ have essentially no internal sticky oils and it seems that its seeds contain a single embryo.
On the left is  juice of the regular poncirus, on the right that of Poncirus+


Next spring I am planning  to cross them in  a hope of obtaining even better quality of fruits.
I shall be glad to provide you  hybrid seeds, if you are interested.

I am not fully agree with your reasoning for rejection of of the progeny of direct hybrids between poncirus and edible citrus.
Of course, if you consider all the plants in F2, F3 and so on generations, they become more and more heterogeneous in respect of the presence of genes for hardiness, but due to the chromosome crossing-overs the two genomes will be progressively  present in the smaller and smaller intermingled fragments finally resulting in the separation of genes for bad the quality of poncirus fruits from the genes of hardiness in particular plants. This will be less possible in your pop3 and pop2 populations.

If you select for extreme hardiness ( comparable to that of poncirus ) in each subsequent generation of intercrossing inside pop5 population, and simultaneously keep selection for better and better  hardiness, discarding the rest, you will produce hardy plants with higher and higher proportion of edible citrus genome.

17
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Long term cold hardy citrus breeding project
« on: December 18, 2017, 05:45:04 PM »
From what I know precocious flowering gene in poncirus is recessive , you need two copies of it to express this feature.
There exist "edible" poncirus clones like Swamp Lemon and Poncirus+ that could be  better starting points at  your pop1 level to produce further F1 populations.
Another comment- since your breeding goal is hardiness for z6, you necessary should select for deciduous trait, even in your pop 5 population crossings.   

18
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: cold hardy Citrus for zone 7b?
« on: December 18, 2017, 03:04:10 PM »
I do not have a personal experience with them, on the Black Sea Caucasian shore Iveria is known to resist -10-12C (10_14F)

19
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: cold hardy Citrus for zone 7b?
« on: December 16, 2017, 09:10:03 AM »
Sotchi, not Sori
Two other "Russian" satsumas are available from UCR
Aguzdera and Iveria

20
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Lights????
« on: November 28, 2017, 02:30:04 PM »
I saw a video comparing side by side plants growing under red + blue LEDs compared to plants growing under all white LEDs. The plants under white LED light looked noticeably better.
There is a whole science on the light use by the plants, not just this video.
It's true red + blue LED is theoretically more efficient at being converted to energy by chlorophyll. But plants have several different chlorophyll pigments and if it's all red + blue light that may be overload on merely one of the pathways plants have for converting light to energy.
Chlorophylls A and B have absorption  spectra very close to each other. You probably refer to additional pigments , mostly carotenoid that are able to absorb longer blue radiation and transfer it to chlorophylls. They  result in improved use of blue light between 400 and 500 nm. 
 Although I still think light penetration into the leaf is a more important issue. If almost all the light is being absorbed by the chlorophyll in the surface layer of the leaf, that's an overload, and then the light is not making it down to the deeper cell layers in the leaf. Deep red wavelengths have some penetration but shorter blue wavelengths are very strongly absorbed. Of course leaves have the greatest transparency to green light.
In action spectrum measurements the difference in light penetration is already taken into consideration.  Leaves are transparent to green light because they do not contain  pigments adsorbing green light, so the green light has almost no effect. Modern white LEDs have three chromophores emitting blue light of 400-500 nm, green light of 500-570nm and red of  more than 649 nm. The green portion is almost lost, decreasing the overall efficiency by 30%
They did not run the experiment in that video but I'm very sure plants would grow better under white + red LED than they would under all white.

21
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Lights????
« on: November 28, 2017, 09:10:14 AM »
The world according to  SoCal2warm would be deep blue, not green.  ::)
Fortunately, chlorophylls and other pigments in leaves are able do adsorb the large part of blue light between 400 and 470 nm.
Moreover, the photosynthetic action  is more efficient with this  blue  than red light of 620-680nm.
Blue light is penetrating quite efficiently into leaves and is driving most of photosynthesis there.
Tungsten incandescent lamps are emitting too strongly in  useless infrared part , bringing life burn. There are other, more efficient ways to heat the air around your plant.
Actually, the most efficient for the plants is a combination of matched blue and red LEDs.

22
May be we need to launch a petition on change.org :'(

23
Citrus General Discussion / Re: Bergamot is a worth to try tree?
« on: November 25, 2017, 03:52:08 AM »
But you should not take it with certain cholesterol lowering  drugs.
Like grapefruit it is high in furanocoumarins and naringin interacting with  metabolism of basic statins.

24
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Yuzu... my new obsession!
« on: November 24, 2017, 03:35:45 PM »
The first one is definitely not a Yuzu. Some papeda, probably ichangensis.

25
Cold Hardy Citrus / Re: Yuzu... my new obsession!
« on: November 21, 2017, 05:03:23 PM »
Not really, but I am searching :D
Some short descriptions for more Yuzu varieties can be found here

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