Mango Pests, Diseases, and Nutritional Problems

[fliptop]

Thanks, Har! I'm still hoping at least some part of the mango remains edible, as I only have one more on the tree from its second bloom, and I do like this mango a lot.

Here's yet another issue. This is on one of my Pickering trees and it's some sort of deep gouge. I have no idea what caused it, but there is growth and panicles and baby fruit at the end of the branch. There is no gummosis oozing out of it. I haven't "treated" with anything (i.e., copper).

Do I cut this branch off or leave it be?



I must say, I grew up in southeast FLA with a Haden in the yard, and I never remember any fuss being made over the tree. Now that I'm growing mangos, I've had to deal with scale, powdery mildew, gummosis, etc. Geez...

[Guanabanus]

Treating that gouge with a copper spray would be good.  Or with Hydrogen peroxide.

[Guanabanus]

Stephen, OOlie's response to you was good.

[Guanabanus]

gychang, Copper is only slightly effective against Powdery Mildew on mango.

Google "mango Hawai'i Powdery Mildew products."  I have no first-hand knowledge of products registered for sale in your state.

[obrady]

Hi all, I picked up this sickly mango tree at the local big box store figuring I would try my luck at bringing it back to health.  It is an Orange Sherbet variety in a 7gal pot.  I believe it has black spot and powdery mildew but would love an expert diagnosis. I have had it for 4 days and am spraying of neem oil.  I have been researching and watching videos these past few days, but I'm torn on what to do.  I have considered pruning, planting in ground (we have heavy clay soil though), or up potting to whiskey barrel until it hopefully improves. Thanks!

[Guanabanus]

Old damage from Powdery Mildew.

[pdang]

Is this a result of underwatering or because of the neem oil/copper spray I used? I've held back on watering for a couple of days, but I haven't seen this damage yet, and it seems to be spreading.

[Guanabanus]

It does look like damage from oil, in hot weather.  What were the dailly high temperatures during the next two days after you sprayed?

[pdang]

The temperatures were around 80-85, it wasn't extremely hot. I made sure that I sprayed during the evening around 5-6 when the sun was coming down. I don't see anymore leaves that were affected, but it could have been the problem.

[Guanabanus]

If your sprayer doesn't have a good agitator, you have to shake your sprayer more than once a minute to keep a mix with oil from separating.  The oil will float.  When you have sprayed nearly all the mix from your tank, you will suddenly be spraying nearly pure oil.

[obrady]

Old damage from Powdery Mildew.

Thanks, Har!

Could that also be what is causing some of these new leaves to have issues?

[Guanabanus]

Yes, some of that probably is Powdery Mildew.  If you look at it with magnification, when the damage is very fresh, you may be able to see white powder--- that would be definitive.

Those black spots are probably Anthracnose moving into wind-damaged spots.

[canesgirl821]

I posted previously but still need help, realize I should have posted here to begin with, so I’ll give it another try.

My beloved Carrie isn’t looking great, despite her marvelous fruit production this year. It looks like several issues/deficiencies may be going on, would really appreciate help diagnosing and/or recommendations.

Whatever it is, it hasn’t touched my Nam Doc Mai right next to it.

Look forward to feedback from the forum, thank you!

I got one reply which suggested low iron/high pH, but I’m not sure how to rectify. Any assistance or suggestions appreciated!

[Guanabanus]

canesgirl,

Severe Manganese deficiency, and also Iron deficiency.

Different truck loads of fill-dirt, and buried construction debris, proximity to house pad, etc., can make that sort of difference in your results.

Were you watching when these trees were planted?  What did the soil look like when the holes were dug?  Have you had a lab analyze your soil?

[canesgirl821]

Har, Thank you for your reply. The Nam Doc Mai is actually closer the the house. Here’s a pic of this tree when planted 6 years ago (wish I knew why the host is rotating it), I was watching when all my trees were planted but honestly I wasn’t paying attention to the soil. I have fertilized fairly regularly, nothing special ... just 8-3-9 or 6-4-6 mixes, and I prune. I have not had the soil analyzed, only recently noticed the issue so trying to figure out how to address it. I know my soil is quite rocky, black toward the top and more grey mixed in further down, that’s about it. How would I go about getting it analyzed?
I wrote in my other post, my dream is to win the lotto and have you care for my trees!

[Guanabanus]

Thank you.

I assume, from your description of grey, rocky soil, that you have limestone or shell rock, covered with some black sandy loam or with muck, that was placed there for sodding.

You could get a 50-pound bag of prilled Sulfur, such as Tiger-90 or similar, probably for around $30, and spread it all within a circle twice the radius of the tree's canopy, to within about a foot of the trunk.  This will lower the pH of the soil's surface, and reactivate some of the fertilizer that you put down previously.  Do this, with some fruit tree fertilizer, three times a year, until the tree greens up, in a couple of years.

[hawkfish007]

I am still struggling with healthy mangoes suddenly drying up and dying. I noticed that it happens to mangoes with pencil sized trunk, e.g., 3-5 gallon mangoes. Mangoes with bigger trunk > 15 gals are seem to immune to this and thrive. I applied Abound and Regalia CG fungicides without any luck. If anyone has any insights or knows how to prevent this, please let me know.

Seemingly healthy Raw Honey.



Suddenly drying up.



Pickering with thicker trunk thriving.

[canesgirl821]

Thank you.

I assume, from your description of grey, rocky soil, that you have limestone or shell rock, covered with some black sandy loam or with muck, that was placed there for sodding.

You could get a 50-pound bag of prilled Sulfur, such as Tiger-90 or similar, probably for around $30, and spread it all within a circle twice the radius of the tree's canopy, to within about a foot of the trunk.  This will lower the pH of the soil's surface, and reactivate some of the fertilizer that you put down previously.  Do this, with some fruit tree fertilizer, three times a year, until the tree greens up, in a couple of years.

Har, Thanks again for the advice, greatly appreciated. Last questions, any idea where I could buy Tiger 90 locally and should I water it in, like fertilizer?

[palingkecil]

I am still struggling with healthy mangoes suddenly drying up and dying. I noticed that it happens to mangoes with pencil sized trunk, e.g., 3-5 gallon mangoes. Mangoes with bigger trunk > 15 gals are seem to immune to this and thrive. I applied Abound and Regalia CG fungicides without any luck. If anyone has any insights or knows how to prevent this, please let me know.

Seemingly healthy Raw Honey.



Suddenly drying up.



Pickering with thicker trunk thriving.

Are those on turpentine rootstock? It happened to my Pickering and Little Gem on turpentine. No more turpentine for me, except Sweet Tart and Honey Kiss

[Guanabanus]

Canesgirl,

Universal Growers Supply in Pompano,

Truly Tropical in Delray Beach.

rain

[Guanabanus]

palingkecil,

I am not familiar with 'Raw Honey.'

Photo 1:  Looks like an admirable setup!  How many hours of direct sunlight?  What is in the soil mix?  Do you use city water?

Photo 2:  I have never seen that double-row of dots on mango leaves.

[hawkfish007]

I am not familiar with 'Raw Honey.'

Photo 1:  Looks like an admirable setup!  How many hours of direct sunlight?  What is in the soil mix?  Do you use city water?

Photo 2:  I have never seen that double-row of dots on mango leaves.

#1 It gets direct sunlight till 3 pm or so. It was in potting soil in a 15 gal pot, but when I transplanted in RB panels I used sand and
topsoil mix to fill the panels (used ~3 cuft). I use dechlorinated city water with a whole house GAC filter.

#2 those dots are probably abound residuals.

I believe raw honey is renamed Shwe Hintha from Zill.

[Guanabanus]

I do know Shwe Hintha.

Perhaps the topsoil was from a field that used to grow tomatoes or peppers or eggplants, until Southern Bacterial Wilt became a problem.  That stuff can hang around for years.  The rapid wilting looks like that, but could be from something else, such as Phytophthora fungus in the roots.  You might be able to save the tree with Flanker or Aliette, or equivalent.  While the tree is still alive, you can send samples to a lab for diagnosis;  don't send an already dead sample.

[hawkfish007]

I do know Shwe Hintha.

Perhaps the topsoil was from a field that used to grow tomatoes or peppers or eggplants, until Southern Bacterial Wilt became a problem.  That stuff can hang around for years.  The rapid wilting looks like that, but could be from something else, such as Phytophthora fungus in the roots.  You might be able to save the tree with Flanker or Aliette, or equivalent.  While the tree is still alive, you can send samples to a lab for diagnosis;  don't send an already dead sample.

Thank you Har for the info, I believe you are correct, it might be from infected topsoil or Gromulch. I recently lost a lychee in pot as well after adding Kellog's Gromulch on top 1" from the same batch. I will get some Aliette (found it on Amazon but no Flanker) ASAP and try to save the tree.

Thanks again for the valuable info, I didn't know about Southern Bacterial Wilt.

[Guanabanus]

Remember not to eat anything for at least a year, from any tree that you apply anything like that on, unless the label allows otherwise.