-Grafting + Dwarf Citrus Questions-

[franklazar26]

I am trying to set out to create my own Dwarf fruit-bearing citrus. I am a beginner to grafting and have yet to attempt it but I have several small saplings that are very healthy. I have some naturally dwarfing rootstock, like a few flying dragons and I have a few others as well. I have seen a lot of grafting in action, mostly on apples being how far north I am, only youtubed citrus grafting and have seen many of fruitmentor's videos on grafting citrus, as well I have all the proper tools to graft, (germination mat, humidity, temp regulation, grow lights, am I missing anything?). I was wondering at what age is best to graft clippings to another tree that I want to stay dwarfed? Or if there are any real techniques that would work better for indoor grafting? I live in zone 5A so they must be kept indoors in the winter, but I have the warm environment replicated rather well in my growing closet haha.

 Thanks in advance for any tips and info! I absolutely LOVE learning new things about citrus! 

[brian]

The most common grafting method for citrus seems to be T-budding.   https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/citrus/budding/budding.htm

I personally fail over and over again doing this, but I think I'm just bad at it.   Supposedly success rate is 95% if you are good at it.

Lemons primarily, and some other types, can be grown from cuttings without having to graft. 

[franklazar26]

I have seen some T-Budding before and I recall that it was very productive in older citrus, like as in outdoor and such. I am looking for my plants to stay small so I'm thinking maybe a tongue graft would suffice? I know I could propagate,  but I am looking to graft onto flying dragon rootstocks for its dwarfing capabilities,  so the plant really stays around 2 ft max and still gives at least some sort of fruit. I have calamondian currently that I would like to graft onto my flying dragon rootstock. Thanks for the link and tips though! I'll check it out!

[Bomand]

You can graft onto flying dragon and keep containerized. With pruning in the proper manner a small tree can be had......ever tried bonsi culture?

[franklazar26]

I have started to look into bonsai, but currently need to figure a way for the tree first haha. I am not sure if I am skilled enough just yet to try bonsai. I would like to learn to graft and with time hopefully shape into a beautiful little tree. So I am learning as I go! I am just wondering if there's any particular age that the tree is better to be grafted onto or any techniques that work better than others for smaller trees? I'd say my cal tree is a few mm thick being around 6 months old from seed, my rootstock flying dragon is around a year or so old as well being roughly a little thicker.

[Bomand]

You need to bud onto the flying dragon rootstock. Usually when budding, size is more important than age. You need to have hour FD to be a good quarter inch or better in order to have the room needed to bud. Your cal seedling is not good budwood. You need budwood from a bearing tree. Otherwise you will be many years away from a fruit producing tree. It takes a little skill and the right timing to bud successfuly. I would pratice on a couple of rootstocks or whatever you have before budding something that you really want.

[citrange]

You should also realise that when you read about dwarfing rootstocks they are always referring to the final size of trees grown outside in the ground.
The research is also always directed towards commercial fruit production, not the home grower using pots.
When growing citrus in pots it is the size of the pot that has a much greater effect on plant size than the variety of rootstock.
Just because you use Flying Dragon as a rootstock does not mean you will easily restrict the plant to 2ft tall, unless you strictly control pot size.
And if you strictly control pot size it probably makes little difference if you use Flying Dragon or standard Trifoliate or citrange or citrumelo - or anything else as a rootstock.

[kumin]

As mentioned, the rootstock needs to be of adequate diameter to physically accommodate the bud. A properly fitted bud is important for maintaining good contact between cambial tissues. Freely slipping bark is paramount for successful bud grafting. Forcefully peeled dry adhering bark will not provide the required moisture to the bud and it will fail due to desiccation.

Citrus budding becomes successful if a few basic rules are followed:
1. Budding is best done when the stems are actively growing and are increasing in diameter. It is this active cambial tissue growth that allows the bud to be accepted and incorporated as part of the healing tissue. Failed buds are often overgrown by and "swallowed" by the rapidly expanding bark. 

The temperatures need to be conducive to rapid growth. Excessively high temperatures will stress the plant, but are less injurious with adequate moisture. Low temperatures will retard the completion of the healing process, excessively low temperatures will stop the process.

Failures can be caused by
1: poor mechanical fitting of the bud and rootstock.
2: poor timing of correct rootstock growing phase.
3: out of season budding.
4. immature buds , or "blind" buds, being a node with a leaf, but without a viable bud. In this case the budded tissue heals properly, but fails to push, due to the absence of an actual bud.

[franklazar26]

Okay, thank you all! I have a little time before I can actually graft then, and when I do graft, I'll order some scions first rather than using my immature seedling. Thank you for all the info guys! Also I do know that the pot dwarfs a citrus, but I do want to ensure that I get a tasteful variety of fruit. So that is my main goal! So basically also I do not need FD as a rootstock if i would like to keep my citrus in containers? It will still produce fruit once grafted and grown if I use a more vigorous rootstock? I originally thought most nurseries graft onto some sort of dwarf trifoliate to keep their size down to the container.

[Laaz]

You will find different areas use completely different rootstocks as well. California is big on Cuban shaddock, C35 & Ponderosa as rootstock rootstock, FL uses mostly Trifoliata & Swingle.

[franklazar26]

You will find different areas use completely different rootstocks as well. California is big on Cuban shaddock, C35 & Ponderosa as rootstock rootstock, FL uses mostly Trifoliata & Swingle.

Right, different rootstocks that are adapt to particular areas correct? I guess what my question is now is should I use a dwarfing rootstock for my container trees or would I be able to use a more vigorous growing rootstock like swindle for containers? Again containers is the only option for me as I live in the northern parts. I would like to try a bonsai out of this as well.

[Bomand]

Since your goal is dwarf tree, I would rely on container and pruning control. As I am impatient and old I would want to get the tree up and running as fast as possible....therefore....I would use a more rigorous rootstock. Swingle is a good one..all purpose rootstock. Not to worry about cold since you are inside.........

[franklazar26]

As am I, I would prefer to have the tree to be productive sooner! That answers my question. Thank you all!

[will2358]

Is Tai Tri ever used as a root stock? I have about 4 or 5 seedlings growing.

[Bomand]

TTri should make a good rootstock. It is a poncirus hybrid and as such has some poncirus traits. Hardiness is good. I have several and they do fine outside in zone 9. As for as graft compatibility I have only used it for lemon. It works good as far as lemon. I have not tested fruit influence but I would think no bad could come into play. When in doubt about using a rootstock I say "do it" . I am currently experimenting with Kumquat seedlings....they are reputed not to do well unless grafted but no harm can come from trying it as rootstock.

[dlhvac]

Cleft grafting is the best way to star I still have a hard time with bud grafting I have the best result using electrical tape at the graft union to hold it tight then buddy tape around scion. In three weeks I take off buddy tape in six weeks carefully remove electric tape

[franklazar26]

Cleft grafting is the best way to star I still have a hard time with bud grafting I have the best result using electrical tape at the graft union to hold it tight then buddy tape around scion. In three weeks I take off buddy tape in six weeks carefully remove electric tape

Okay, awesome! I haven't heard of using electrical tape but seems like it would be good for it! Thanks for the info!

[Laaz]

Lol! No you don't want to use electrical tape. T-budding is the best method, if you want to cleft use Parafilm which will break down over time.