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Messages - barath

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 41
1
Could you describe the climate range Passiflora nitida grows in versus Passiflora laurifolia?  Does P. nitida grow in warmer or colder areas?  Does it like more or less humidity?

2
You might look for Duke or Aravaipa seeds -- take a look at JoeReal's posts on this forum.  They will have the kind of cold tolerance you're looking for.

3
At one time I grew both in containers in Northern California but found that Silas Wood grew way too slowly.  Alano put on a lot of growth and even set fruit (though I didn't have enough heat for it to ripen).  Eventually I lost both trees to winter weather (not really frost, but I think just prolonged cold).

4
I think Black Beauty is Morus nigra which I've found pretty much impossible to root.  I know Pakistan and Illinois Everbearing are pretty easy to root.  No idea about the others.

5
Durling uses C35 on their standard trees.

Check this website out Barath.  This is a fellow member GregA's website.  He says la verne uses C35 on everything. 

http://gregalder.com/yardposts/dwarf-semi-dwarf-and-standard-citrus-trees-what-are-they-really/


Sounds great.

I had ordered some Swingle bud sticks and budwood of various cultivars from CCCP and did a direct graft-and-root with them, and some are doing well, but they're tiny and I figure it will be a long time before they're fruiting.  I picked Swingle because the studies seemed to say that it's the most resistant among common rootstocks to citrus greening.  Seems like C35 should work well for the time being.

6
Sounds great -- thanks for all these details.  I guess I'll just get some standard ones from La Verne.

7
What standard (commercially-available) rootstocks are most vigorous for California?

8
Just to clarify what I meant -- I'd like to plant various citrus trees (lemon / lime / orange / mandarin / grapefruit / ...), maybe 5 in total, and am wondering which ones will grow extremely vigorously if planted now in a warm/hot SoCal location with full sun and water and fertilizer.  I'd like the trees to grow many feet in their first summer, starting from a 5 gallon pots from the usual commercial nurseries (La Verne or others).  Which would you all recommend that grow fast and taste decent?

9
What are the fastest growing citrus (of any kind) that are worth growing?  This is in a warm/hot SoCal climate, with plenty of water and fertilizer.

10
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Marula (Sclerocarya birrea)
« on: May 16, 2019, 01:00:58 PM »
Does that mean that it doesn't need cross pollination?

11
I have small duke trees now but to speed things up will get seeds in oroville this season for dukes in sept/oct. I tryed a mexicola seed the seedling very tiny and slow growing , will take a long time to get big enough to graft, my sister likes to use bacon seeds but i do better with zutanto for myself, a larger faster growing rootstock.

Duke isn't a small seedling but it is very very slow to germinate (usually it takes at least 6 months for me to get it to germinate, whereas I get Zutano germination in about 1 month).

12
If you're in a colder part of the central valley, you might consider other seedling rootstocks like Duke or Aravaipa or Mexicola, because I've found Zutano isn't that cold tolerant (relative to the others).  I had planted Duke and Zutano seedlings in Concord a few years ago and in a cold winter the Zutano died back half way and the Duke showed no damage at all.

13
Interesting question.  I wonder how far south in Florida apples can be successfully grown.  I understand they grow them in San Diego, and I'm not talking only the mountainous parts of San Diego County (Julian).  Winter chill requirements may not be all that important?

I wonder if there's anyone here who lives in Santa Monica and can weigh in -- I've talked to some folks who know about apples being grown just fine in Santa Monica, which is probably the lowest chill area of SoCal (even warmer winters than San Diego).  But the difference is that SoCal gets cold-ish for many months.  Is 45F really a hard cut off, or, for example, do nights at 50F accumulate a tiny bit of chill hours?

14
My experience growing them in pots and in the ground in different areas of CA is that they like acidic soil and don't care if the soil is well draining (though it should not be like wet muck either).  I've had Eugenias do just fine in areas that have cold standing water for a month straight, but have had them die back in soil that was not acidic enough.  (I don't know how acidic they need it to be -- whether they need blueberry-level acidity or not.)  I usually just use coffee grounds and peat moss to acidify the soil gently and have not needed to use sulfur.  Besides acidity they haven't been too picky.

15
I hate to ask because it is the third year in a row, but looking for capulin cherry seeds.. Hopefully of an improved variety or if anyone in Mexico buys some at a fruit stand and the flavor is good.  2 years ago terminated them but killed them in sun next spring.  Last year didn't germinate.  Not giving up, though!!!
Would also consider catalina Island cherry seeds if anyone has any.
Just let me know your price and cost of shipping.  Thanks!!

I know the location of a street tree that I think is Catalina Island cherry in the East Bay that produces good tasting fruit (though the seeds are large), if you ever have a chance to pick some (I don't live there so I can't get any for you) -- here are the GPS coordinates: 37.877921, -122.257048

16
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: tropical guavas/fruit
« on: April 25, 2019, 02:07:41 PM »
Hi all, i have some white guava fruit   FREE   if anyone would like to come pick them i am in spring valley.     619-861-1694   Patrick

Patrick's guavas taste really good, by the way -- I wish I had time to make the drive down!

17
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado thread
« on: April 24, 2019, 09:55:22 AM »
Hi Barath, this area is requires jack hammers and more to move inches of dirt.  It's all breccia, or a kind of lava flow cement intermixed with a bit of clay, sand and a lot of river rock and boulders.  I spent four weekends and several weeknight evenings just digging out the three holes. Trying to grow the avocado in the "soil" as it was would have been no different than growing in another container.  I tried to incorporate as much of the native soil and gravel as I could without producing a hard impenetrable medium.  If there's any way to encourage the roots to seek out and branch, I'd love to know of it. 

The shade cloth makes sense, and I had considered it.  But, my neighbors are already giving a lot of concerned glances and questions with all the front yard work, and I fear a bunch of shade-cloth would put me over the edge.  A few of them have already called the city on me a few years back due to the look of my backyard, so I can't really push it.  I'd whitewash (or surround), but same concern.  I appreciate the input.

Ah, hmm.  That sounds like a tough environment to grow them in.  The suggestion above of using light brown latex paint instead of white seems like a good compromise option.  I might still go with lots of coffee grounds and tree trimming mulch at a good distance away from the trees, to encourage the feeder roots to go out and get nutrients beyond the planting hole.

18
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado thread
« on: April 24, 2019, 12:26:11 AM »
You might toss some 50% shade cloth over the ones that have lost a some of their leaves, because when avocados get sunburn they really struggle, then lose more leaves, and it's a downward spiral.  I've had bad luck with amended soil with avocados, because the roots don't really spread out properly from the amended area, but I guess you mixed it so maybe it'll be fine.

19
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado thread
« on: April 22, 2019, 01:23:27 PM »
3 weeks ago, I transplanted a Reed avocado from a 15 gallon container. I bought it from Clausen in Bonsall.   This morning I noticed the young leaves are burning at the tips.  All the old leaves have fallen off.  Is this Reed going through transplant shock or just some nutrient deficiency?  The temperature has been warm recently in San Diego but hasn't been over 80F where I lived so I don't think it is sunburn.

-Jamex




Could be salt burn and/or high pH.  You might flush it with some low-salt water and give it some mild low pH fertilizer like a bucket of coffee grounds.

20
Its very tough to grow mangoes especially in my area. A few branches were infected with antrancnose.

My interventions was to cut/ remove the infected part. Scrub neem oil and turmeric powder. Then seal it with iv organics paint.

Turmeric powder?  Interesting -- never heard of that being useful to deal with plant infections.

21
Sounds great.  I've just been trying to learn more about MBBS.  Thanks.

I'm just curious -- is there a way for you to tell whether the scions you cut have MBBS so you can avoid spreading it?  This isn't just applicable to you, but everyone who sells scions from Florida.  Thanks!

Infected wood has distinguishable black lesions on it.
Not to be confused with benevolent black mold which is common.

22
Here some pics of Panama Red





Interesting, how big are those fruits?  (I'm just wondering the scale.)

23
I'm just curious -- is there a way for you to tell whether the scions you cut have MBBS so you can avoid spreading it?  This isn't just applicable to you, but everyone who sells scions from Florida.  Thanks!

24
Anyone have an U Molinae from the large fruiting variety? I love this fruit, it tastes like no other but the fruit are so small. It tastes a bit like cotton candy mixed with this other unreal tropical fruit flavor. Iíve seen a giant variety but it seems itís only available in Europe.

Simon

I was given a plant of an unnamed supposedly large-fruited variety but it's been in a container for years and hasn't fruited yet.  I was hoping to get the "ka pow" variety that was selected in England but couldn't figure out how to purchase it.

25
How is the flavor of Panama Red, for those of you growing it in Florida -- is it really sweet (like the Australian one supposedly is)?

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