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Messages - SanDiegoCherimoya

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1
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / ISO grape rootstock varieties
« on: April 15, 2024, 07:21:12 PM »
Seems hard to find. Only available online overseas. Anyone have grape vine rootstock scions?

2
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Gopher Gold
« on: April 14, 2024, 12:31:22 AM »
Assassin's



3
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Help strange disease on FL tomatoes
« on: April 13, 2024, 11:11:44 PM »
What do you consider successful. I'd love to see these shade grown tomato plants. Personally, Ive never even seen tomatoes for sale in the grocery from Florida.

I have farmed both coastal and inland foothills here in San Diego. There's a reason no commercial tomato grows are along the foggy marine layered coast. If you're saying shade is no problem for tomato production, then show me the evidence.

Also, yes there are a lot of successful greenhouse tomato grows in pots. But, what's the growing medium and how large is the pot?

The most concerning part of this whole post is no one mentioned the variety of tomato being grown. So yes, case closed. Bugs killed a plant put in the wrong location.


I have seen tomatoes grown very successfully in pots here in Florida (where nematodes can be a limiting factor for in-ground plants). I have also grown cherry, grape, and Campari tomatoes in shade (in the ground). I don't see any signs of a leaf disease like septoria, or early/late blight. I would be looking at a soil borne disease like fusarium or verticulum. If the plant dies, cut into the stem and look for brown dead streaks in the stem. I would also think that one of those is more likely if you have been growing the plant in the same medium as a diseased plant from before. Fresh plants in fresh soil would likely help for next year (we've passed the time to plant here in Florida now).

4
 Nature solved your problem. You planted tomatoes where they didn't want to live. Bugs took them out.

100% solved confirmed case closed. We have russet mites!! Again!! These guys are the worst pests I’ve ever dealt with. I wonder how many folks have tossed their tomatoes because of a “virus” which is really a mite they can’t see. It might be hard to distinguish in photos whether those are mites or random debris but it’s very obvious once you see them moving around












5
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Help strange disease on FL tomatoes
« on: April 13, 2024, 12:15:02 PM »
I've seen plenty of junk tomato plantings. The problem is that they don't want live where you're planting them. It's clear evidence you cannot argue.

Did they burn because you sprayed the whole plant with water while then sun was out?

First, the only way tomatoes look stringy like that is if you are growing them in too much shade.

Second, you're growing them in pots.

Try planting them in full direct sun in the soil and don't water any of the foliage.

I used to have a 99% shade cloth I have since gotten rid of. It’s under 30% shade cloth now and my Everglades has been producing like crazy and sprawled everywhere. The last time I tried full sun all my plants got fried as soon as it got hot. They’re in 5 gallon pots for now and have been doing super well. I have nowhere to put them in the ground unfortunately. I’m thinking either virus or tomato russet mite. The soil I used this year is completely fresh and new. Maybe I reused a pot..
That’s a common myth. If things worked that way then we’d be getting hotter instead of cooler when we sweat. Evaporation cools. Water isn’t a magnifying glass. Also once it goes over 100 in the summer humidity most everything that isn’t a cactus suffers. Instead of misting constantly or just plain giving up I put up a 30% shadecloth. There’s a reason tomatoes and strawberries are a winter crop in Florida, especially south Florida.

6
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Help strange disease on FL tomatoes
« on: April 12, 2024, 10:26:31 PM »
Did they burn because you sprayed the whole plant with water while then sun was out?

First, the only way tomatoes look stringy like that is if you are growing them in too much shade.

Second, you're growing them in pots.

Try planting them in full direct sun in the soil and don't water any of the foliage.

I used to have a 99% shade cloth I have since gotten rid of. It’s under 30% shade cloth now and my Everglades has been producing like crazy and sprawled everywhere. The last time I tried full sun all my plants got fried as soon as it got hot. They’re in 5 gallon pots for now and have been doing super well. I have nowhere to put them in the ground unfortunately. I’m thinking either virus or tomato russet mite. The soil I used this year is completely fresh and new. Maybe I reused a pot..

7
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Help strange disease on FL tomatoes
« on: April 12, 2024, 01:13:05 PM »
First, the only way tomatoes look stringy like that is if you are growing them in too much shade.

Second, you're growing them in pots.

Try planting them in full direct sun in the soil and don't water any of the foliage.

8
No,

But the property is well known by CRFG. Unfortunately, relatives of the deceased are destroying the property

SanDiegoCherimoya, that is an old and large tree. I just went to the CSUF arboretum again yesterday to see their large white sapote trees. Their trees are over 45years old and it is not that big. I estimate their trunk size to be 24-28" in diameter (next time I will take a tape measure).

Can you take a photo of the old tree and fruit photo if it has any now? I took some more photos of the CSUF white sapote tree so I can post it later here. It had some fruits on the McDill tree (one of the oldest tree in SoCal) but it was high on the tree. The roots seemed to go deep, but not wide from shape of the trunk to me. They have two very old trees at the arboretum. My seedling trees are from this McDill tree fruits and now I have my first flowers forming on my tree now. They also have the Wooly Leaf (yellow) sapote next to the McDill and my other seedlings are from that fruit which already fruited for me and tastes excellent.

9
Suriname cherry

11
Cherimoya originate from the cloud forest in Loja Ecuador. Temperatures range from 50 to 70. I've worked at a lot of old groves planted in San Diego.They are not a heat or wind loving species. By the time they are ready to drop leaves, lots of the leaves are beat up from rough weather.

Most of the seedlings at Exotica are under pretty deep filtered light. They look fine. I worked in a greenhouse with 40% shade cloth. They grew great.

I believe from my experience that cherimoya look healthier in a denser food forest setting with periods of full sun and filtered light throughout the day. They tend to look healthier in more consistently cloudy areas by the coast.

12
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Thinning rollinia fruits
« on: April 07, 2024, 02:12:12 PM »
I have a lot of experience with over pollinating cherimoya and assume the same concepts apply to Rollinia.

What you want to keep in mind when thinning is the best placement of fruit and where bigger fruits tend to consistently develop.

Within the first 8 nodes on thicker branches is the best and allowing 5 fruits per whip should not have any effects on the size.

Also the fruit has different stages of growth cycle where they grow to about 60% size, then have a stagnant period before finishing off their growth into harvest season. So applying the right amount of water during these active fruit growth periods is necessary for larger fruit.

13
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Campbell White Sapote HELP?
« on: March 26, 2024, 10:14:27 PM »
I have a grafted Mary Lane growing in about 70% shade. Leaves are fat as hell. I think the saplings want shade and sandy soil.

14
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Rollinia - To Prune or Not to Prune
« on: March 24, 2024, 05:44:52 PM »
I've lived on Big Island seen these fools learn from all the same people. Just because it rains a lot and your tree grows big doesn't give you the right to give advice. Learn some real skills.

15
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Rollinia - To Prune or Not to Prune
« on: March 24, 2024, 05:30:56 PM »
This right here is a perfect example of what I'm talking about. Anyone growing a 30ft annona doesn't know much about pruning.

Agreed, the fruits are not easy to pick from a tall tree but that said many doesnt get tall at al unless you count six meters as tall?

I've seen rollinias here that get 50 feet tall (16 meters) in good soil. Mine on lava rock is over 30 feet tall. I get plenty, and more than plenty fruits, from lower branches, so don't bother with pruning...let the birds eat the ones at the top. Ofcourse for commercial production everything needs to be kept at easily pickable height.
Oscar

16
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Rollinia - To Prune or Not to Prune
« on: March 23, 2024, 03:38:54 PM »
After reviewing the answers here and making a similar post not too long ago, it sounds like a good idea to top your rollinias at a young age and grow wide instead of tall.

For some reason, most people in Hawaii and other tropics lack canopy management skills. So take their advice with a grain of salt. It must be an ego thing where the faster they grow a taller tree, the better the farmer they think they are.


Ready to resurrect this post.

What is the verdict on pruning Rolinia?

17
Received scions today. Excellent,
 already pushing buds. Mark times every thing right.

18
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Late Season Grape Varieties
« on: March 17, 2024, 08:11:28 AM »
Wondering if anyone has knowledge of the best tasting late Season Grape Varieties. Also, does a harvest time chart exist? I couldn't find one.

19
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Parafilm?
« on: March 13, 2024, 10:15:14 PM »
Just made a post about this. Found M parafilm horrible for softer wood cleft grafts but great for hard wood bark grafts.

20
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Grafting Tape
« on: March 11, 2024, 09:55:35 PM »
You want to talk to me like a kook, but the reality is that ground temperatures determine growth. So if I can get a black pot heating up in the sun then I will get earlier growth. Seen it many times trying to plant potted plants too early. They will grow faster in pots just from the roots being warmer.

21
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Grafting Tape
« on: March 11, 2024, 09:45:50 PM »
And just a side note. I've seen the only successful way of grafting off-season annona's already budded out to be with bagging method.

22
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Grafting Tape
« on: March 11, 2024, 09:41:11 PM »
My original graft failure was in the shade with a different type of parafilm product. I wanted to warm everything up for a couple days after a rain. Since that pic, Ive moved the pots to a partial sun area and removed the bags. I have scions pushing buds already. I grafted too early in the season and the idea was to trick rootstock to push buds with greenhouse effect. I understand your concerns and how young annona like partial shade.

So I regrafted everything with different tape. Bagged them, and put the potts in the sun 🌞 to wake these mfers up. Will keep you updated.



I think the bags is the reason of your graft failure.  It cook the scion.  What I would do is using the cherimoya leaf and partially wrap around the scion and tie the leaf to the scion to provide the shade and heat.  The idea is to prevent direct sun light, but still have the heat and brightness.  Leave the plant in the sun to keep the rootstock active.

23
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Grafting Tape
« on: March 09, 2024, 09:10:08 PM »
Okay. Thought rootstock needed heat to wake up. Will adjust. Had them in partial shade before. It just rotted. I've had 85% success rate in a hot ass greenhouse during May with overhead watering every day.

24
I'm not a fan of lollipop 🍭 annona trees

25
Cut it three to four nodes above the graft union. Regrow it...

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