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Messages - GangstaRIB

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1
Just wanted to add my exp with ON to the conversation.

I planted mine from a tiny 3 gallon in 2014.
This year was the first year I got a decent crop for the tree size. (Maybe around 75 fruits for a (15-202ft tree).

A lot of fruit set and plenty of drops.
It seems like regular irrigation in early summer really helps hold fruit to maturity.

I also have layers of mulch and trimming under the tree.
So possibly soil improvement is helping.

If i had to start over i think I'd go Lula for the flavor and extended season (I can't eat 75 over a month)
Or Super Hass for the tree size.

I will give some away but I could probably eat what's on my tree now. 70 though i dont think i could make it through that many. You could pick them a bit early just as they start to turn black, but i think even with that the ON season is 2 months at best. As far as advice it seems like you are fruiting well now. Mulch, and organic matter just keep adding every year.

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I have had my ON for 5 years never, able to get it to hold fruit. Cleared a near by tree to give it more sun, mulched all around it. It responded well and produced much more fruit. But it has dropped most again. Tree looks happy tons of new growth, but won't hold fruit. Hope yours does better, keep us posted on your progress.

Do you have squirrels? I am in a 'young' neighborhood so not many large trees for them to hang out in yet but I'm sure they will at some point. I did see one squirrel try to make a home in my tree and I chased it away with a garden hose and haven't seen it since.

This is the 3rd full season in the ground maybe 20 fruits? Last season only one hung on. I am not sure if pollination with other trees matter when setting fruit. I have a mexicola behind it so maybe this helps? The bees absolutely love the flowers on both so i think I get a lot of help there.

Maybe a fertility issue? My area has some clay mixed in but most of FL is a sandbox. Soil tests can be done online and mailed in for 30 bucks or so, maybe worth checking this. I don't really have a rigid fertility schedule but throw down some balanced organic ferts a few times per year and do liquids here and there, but I think the feeder roots have probably found their way into my lawn which does get fertilized regularly but not excessively.


3
How cold did it get in your area last winter ?  The reason I asked because I'm always ask about avocados that can handle Central Florida.  About 3 winters or more ago temps got  below 31 for a few hours in the low part of my grove. That is where my original ON is. Surrounding trees, got some burn, the ON nothing, flushed new leaves and got really nice  over the next few days.   I communicated with a friend in California  who said ON took 19 degrees F for a short while. I have not confirmed this.
My ON ripens around Thanks Giving, is a big grower, cut the nitrogen and fruit will keep longer.

Sorry for the delay Carlos I am not on the forum very often, so I missed your question. I'm not sure how well ON is going to weather a cold snap. It got pretty cold winter 2017 but it was early and about a month before I put the tree in the ground. It has not been freezing here very often, I do not think I have seen a freeze since I put the tree in, although it has gotten close. I'm not sure what is going on when I first moved to the general area I remember getting at least one freeze per year if not a hard freeze. I remember getting atleast a few weeks worth of frosts as well but I have only seen a handful of frosts over the past 3-4 years. Maybe because I live in a slightly different microclimate then I did 10 years ago? I am not sure. I don't think my ON has seen a freeze yet much less upper 20s. I guess in a way that's good I would consider it a nice hardy baby tree now with a nice busy stance and a height of maybe 15-20 feet. I will need to prune it I guess once a start pulling fruit because it's going to get away from me I dont want to be climbing ladders to get fruit.

Just had my 2nd Oro negro this week. My first was from last year. It didn't seem to have as much fat content as I remember but I think I pulled it early. I just pulled another that was about 50% black and it was getting soft before it was 100% black. I will probably take another or 2 in a week, but I think as you have said before this is a thanksgiving avocado.

Again thanks for your website and your information. I feel like this is the perfect avocado for me. Hass is good but I have not had great luck with store bought ones seems like they do not have a ripening window that is very long and then they get mushy and not a good texture but just fine for guacamole. I never liked store bought "Florida" avocados they always seem watery. I did find a lula one time which had good texture and fat content but just tasted 'off' to me and had kind of a weird flavor and I don't think I finished it. ON is a very good 'eating' avocado. it cubes up nicely without turning really mushy, great texture and also not watery. Seems to have a good creaminess and fat content. This first one I don't think tasted quite as good, but again I think this is my fault I wanted to try one  ;D

Mexicola is supposed to be super hardy. I have one of those and it makes very small little fruits. It gives me fruit in late summer, but other than that if you could only pick one tree it would not be mexicola. The fruit at perfect ripeness is very good, very high fat content, skin takes some getting used to, but it seems to have a very very narrow window of ripeness. You have to wait until it starts looking like a raisin for it to be ripe and then it seems like you have 2 days to eat it before it rots. I guess that's my main complaint really is shelf life, but I was glad to have some fruit I could eat even if only for 2-3 weeks.

I guess we will see what this winter brings. My ON is too big to cover now so if it does get cold we will get a test. Sure does seem like global warming has really ramped up in the past decade or so it just does not get as cold here as I remember and sure feels like we are over due for a good hard freeze.

Sorry, I got long winded here. Out of all the fruits and plants I've grown there is just something about avocado trees that gets me going. Such a beautiful tree on its own and then it gives us this gift of fruit that is just amazing. I think Oro Negro is a great pick for central florida, but I guess the jury is still out on weather or not an extreme cold blast is going to take it out. I still feel like it is just a hardy tree that worst case it would die back to the trunk and come back. I was told its grafted to a lula seed so it should be able to survive a short blast of mid 20s. I don't think I have ever seen such a vigorous tree before and that includes any kind of tree not just avocados. I have definitely over pruned it a few times and it just comes roaring back during spring flush. I can't even imagine how big it would be now if i never trimmed it. She has only been in the ground for just shy of 4 years and was in a 3 gallon pot.

Also, thanks for your advice on nitrogen. I have seen you say this before so I did not add any fertilizer last month in hopes of maybe keeping a few on the tree as long as possible.

4
I have had my ON for 5 years never, able to get it to hold fruit. Cleared a near by tree to give it more sun, mulched all around it. It responded well and produced much more fruit. But it has dropped most again. Tree looks happy tons of new growth, but won't hold fruit. Hope yours does better, keep us posted on your progress.

I think I should get a good 10-20 this year. I came back to find the thread because I was trying to figure out when they were going to ripen. I guess I have another month and change to wait.

Also had a good few handfuls of mexicolas this year. They were very good but many went to waste. I can see why you don't see mexicolas in the store they seem to have a very narrow range of ripeness. I did not like them at first but they were not ripe. Mexicolas need to look almost overripe with crinkled skin but then once they get to there you have a day or 2 to eat them before they go overripe.

Oro Negro though, I only had the one last year I am pretty excited this year to hopefully be able to get a few. Oro Negro to me is the best avocado I ever had.

ON does seem to drop a lot of fruits and even quite a bit later. I havent seen any dropped fruits in a few months now so it seems once they get closer to full size they hang on. I will have to prune off some branches after harvest. It's wierd I have one branch with maybe 20 lbs of fruit on it and then in other places they are more spread out.

It is a very vigorous tree for me here in central Florida i am actually getting worried about how big it might get, I want to say it's close to 15 ft tall at the main shoot.

I think maybe check your fertility if you have full sun. I top dressed with an entire bag of black cow when I planted and mulch. I keep the mulch topped off every year adding about 2 inches. I periodically add various organic types of fertilizer but I would recommend an organic citrus fertilizer with zinc and use some organic liquids from time to time like fish fertilizer, but I really only feed 3 times a year or so with solid fertilizer a few cups and organic liquids maybe once a month or 2 months at a few ozs to a gallon of water. I also use a few handfuls of sulfate of potash a few times of year potassium is very important and low in FL soils. I think the biggest thing fertility wise in FL is to make sure the micronutrients are there especially Manganese, Iron, magnesium and zinc. I sometimes will hit with a citrus mineral spray and sea weed as well but she's a very healthy looking tree.

Best of luck I think you will really enjoy the fruit when it comes.

5
That is very early flowering specially from the Orlando Area

She looks good this year. Set a good amount of fruit and I’m hoping to get a few decent fruit this year. The one fruit I got tasted amazing. Seemed as oily as hass or closed to it but not mushy at all as hass get. Haha I don’t recommend eating one fruit by yourself in one sitting.

Thanks again for your site Carlos. I picked this one because I went through your reviews (probably all of them)

Also have a mexicola that set some fruit. Hope to eat those in a month or so.

6


Next season 2020. Just one fruit hung on. Haven’t eaten it yet it’s gonna be at least a week before it ripens on the counter. I think I picked it a little early but it looked like it was starting to get scab so I figured better early than not at all with just the one fruit in my 3 yrs of having it in the ground. Probably could have stayed on another month from what I read they should be mostly black before picking but it’s starting to change.

I guess next year I should have some pretty good luck. She’s put on some size so I think she’ll hold more than one fruit next year.

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Florida Avocado Varieties
« on: November 13, 2019, 10:39:37 AM »
Wow that is nuts. How old was the cado before it froze to the ground? I'm also thinking a cold hard root stock may be all it takes to save some of the 'warmer' varieties. The root stock is where all the sugar gets stored in the winter time. I realize avos are evergreens but I suspect they still store quite a bit when they start thinning out in the winter time. What is the rootstock lula? Seems like all of the FL nurseries here graft to lula seeds.

Also, because it is a greenhouse, the microclimate probably saved the trees. Not only is it a windbreak but often the coldest air during the coldest nights is closest to the ground. It's why we can get frost despite the temp being close to 40 degrees. I wonder if the black pots held the heat and kept the trunk out of the 'cold zone' just enough.

Once again quite happy for you. I remember reading this story last year and it was pretty depressing.

Reed sounds really good in many ways, and I’m tempted to plant one for it’s cold hardiness alone,...

Every source I've read about Reed's lack of cold hardiness is the same - it's not cold hardy below 30F.  Well, AGAIN, I'm glad my trees can't read.  My recording thermometer showed a low of 18F in the greenhouse with that heater failure which makes sense as the overnight outside low was 13F.  Froze back to a stump. Here it is pushing little green shoots March 6, 2018 after being pruned back from about 10' tall.



Recovery was amazing.  Here it is 7 months later, Oct. 28, 2018!



My secret?  Bottomless RootBuilder "pot", a handful or two of slow release 18-4-9 Polyon prills for food and mostly watered with rain water. Pre-flowering supplement of boron.

Pay your money, take your chances.

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Review of Kampong Avocado
« on: November 12, 2019, 06:00:53 PM »
This has been around for years and has not made it into commercial production, no reason to. Monroe is a better all around choice

Thanks for your feedback Carlos. And thanks for all you do in the avocado community. Your website has been great.

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Review of Kampong Avocado
« on: November 12, 2019, 02:53:03 PM »
I think this is perfect then. The tree is a gift for someone that grew up on 'Florida avocados' in the backyard so I believe I picked the right one. Every time I buy a FL avocado is it hard and watery these stores just do not give us the good ones. It is a shame I would think living in FL we would get the best pick of the WI x G varieties. The one in the picture does not look watery at all and looks to have a good firm but creamy texture when you peeled it.

Will this one make it into production or still too early to tell? Is it like monroe but seems to have the drawback of alternate bearing?

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Help to ID this Mexican Race avocado
« on: November 12, 2019, 02:43:35 PM »
My mexicola went in the ground last year in summer it was grafted to a lula seedling (per nursery) It was girdled by a rat or something last winter. In spring i noticed offshoots and i cut the main stem off. The leaves still have the very nice anise smell so I am confident the regrowth is above the graft. It seems to have recovered after a full year but is only about as tall as when I bought it. Certainly does not seem as vigorous as oro negro. Even before the 'injury' I would agree the mexicola just does not have near the vigor as my other tree. Maybe they just don't too much care for the heat. ON seemed to bolt on me when it started getting hot but mexicola seems to slow down when it is hot. I did notice before injury mexicola seems to grow steady in the cooler months when my ON pretty much stops growing. Now that we are finally getting a short break from 90 degree temps in FL it seems like my mexicola is putting out almost a second growth phase (lots of buds) when ON is slowing down. I guess time will tell maybe these 'buds' are actually mexicola getting ready to flower in the next few months. It is only 2-3 ft tall though so I can't imagine its large enough to do so.


I had not in the past but this year I have a few seedling going to test. I have mixed info on this. Some people say the Mexicola grows very large in California but here it stays small for me.

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Review of Kampong Avocado
« on: November 12, 2019, 02:30:52 PM »
So I guess as a Guatemala variety which all seem to have alternate bearer traits. I wonder if a lot of this has to do with high fruit set which you would get in your grove with so many varieties there to pollinate. I am curious if Guatemala varieties still have heavy alternate bearing characteristics if it is a lone  tree.

Anyway, did you have scab issues? How is the flavor of these vs your initial taste test in 2014? I will be planting one in zone 9b/10a on the west coast of FL myself. How does it compare to oro negro and monroe? It appears to have similar qualities at least in the pictures of the flesh. It looks less watery than a WI but less oil then hass. It sure looked good in your salad. Would you say this is more of a fork and knife avocado vs the hass guacamole style avocado? Does it have a decent amount of fat as well?

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I don't think this is due to any one phenomena. There are a few possibilities. By chopping competition for water, nutrients, etc is reduced as the plant you chopped doesn't require as much to sustain it's smaller stature. Also just like when you cut the grass, plants are minimalists and the roots themselves likely died back quite a bit. You also have organic matter from the chop and drop. This conserves moisture and breaks down giving your other plants more Nitrogen and also boosting bacterial growth in the soil. If you don't ever fertilize in a traditional sense you just fertilized by doing your chop and drop especially with your leafy legumes. Alfalfa meal makes a great organic fertilizer and this is essentially what you have made. You have also released a good amount of hormones and micro-nutrients back into the soil as well.

As for the mycelial networks? I couldn't tell you and I don't think science can yet either. We really... really... need science to step in and study our soil biology. We would have to know which myco infects the tree/bush in question vs which ones infect your cover crop. In general most trees tend to associate with ectomycorizzae and most grasses weeds tend to associate with endomycorizzae so it's probably not likely, but I can tell you for sure that your diverse plant habitat is certainly beneficial for the mycorizzae that are infecting your host plant, so keep doing what you are doing. The other crops certainly help foster a healthy soil biology which in turn will help support other fungal populations and mycos as well.

Remember Fungal mycelium are only 1 cell think and do not posses an immune system like other multicellular organisms. They do produce some compounds to help fight pathogenic organisms (where we have made many of our own antibiotics) but this alone is not enough for the organism to survive. Fungi MUST work with other organisms to supplement its own immune system and so the bio diversity you are providing in your environment is absolutely helping the fungi.

One possibility as well is that the AMF the other plants were associated with died back somewhat leaving room and resources for the AMF that has infected the target plant to thrive.... We need more research for sure.

I practice some techniques that aren't always common in standard orchards. I interplant under over and around my trees with different plants trying to emulate something more like nature. I plant legumes, vegetables, herbs, flowers and ground covering plants dense enough that they form a community. Every so often I go through and trim these plants so they aren't competing for light, moisture or space. I call these cuttings "chop & drops" because usually the prunings are left in place as a mulch.

About 1-1/2 months ago I did a chop & drop in an area and this week noticed that two trees in particular had just taken a huge stride in growth. They had been poking along all summer and even though we haven't had any change in rain or weather something had really happened. They are nearly 3 year old Rollinia which hasn't really done too well, looked a little yellow and hadn't grown a lot through the season and a 3 year old Breadfruit . Around them was a great growth of a ground covering plant called Longevity spinach(Gynura procumbens). When cut it probably amounted to a wheelbarrow load of fresh green matter that I put aroud each tree.

I've heard some people speak of how pruning adjacent plants sends "information" out into mycelial networks communicating signals for growth and renewal. On the other side, when plants die off or senesce, an opposite signal might occur towards a reduction of growth or a dormancy and pulling back of resources. The reaction of these trees to just the stimulus of pruning around them has really got me thinking.

What do you think?

here is an article explaining some of what science research has found:
https://www.the-scientist.com/features/plant-talk-38209

here is the Rollinia, it has flushed better than it ever has, about a foot of growth:


here is the Breadfruit, it did Ok through the summer rainy season, but has suddenly jumped nearly 2 feet:


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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Florida Avocado Varieties
« on: November 12, 2019, 12:37:27 PM »
I haven't had any fruit from my Oro negro yet but it went through it's first 'practice run' this spring. I am not aware of any other avocados in the near area and it did seem to set plenty of baby fruit (eventually dropping them all it was only about 4 ft tall) It does not have the mexican anise smell like the mexicola I just planted but the bees still seemed to go crazy after the flowers. I am also in central FL. It seems like in FL the phases of the flowers get out of whack so there seems to be quite a bit of overlap with the male/female phase.

Also, I would give most of the credit to the bees. I rarely see any bees in my yard on any given day but they sure loved those avocados. Normally I see one or two at a time on some of the other flowers but you could hear the bees working away on the flowers.

A&B types together I'm sure will set more fruit. I put a mexicola (type a) next to my oro negro (type b) for this reason, but I don;t think its needed in FL.

The way I see it if you are worried about fruit set plant some more flowers in your yard. Pentas and Latana from the big box store flower mostly year round and the bees love them. Freezes may take them out but they are cheap


We grow Brooks Late. It is a heavy producer, the fruit are round, green. Have had them ripen as late as February and some say it’s holds to March for them.




How would you rate the taste of it compared to a Reed. Mark has me really thinking about adding one. I would pick one of these two. Zone9B.

Haven’t tasted Reed, but Reed is almost certainly better.

My LULA is already flower type "A". Mark does yours have issues pollinating? I have tons of natural pollinators in the back from honey bees to flies and love bugs lady bugs etc....I am wondering if removing my Brodgon "B" Flower type will result in less avos....

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Awesome I remember reading about this. Good to see they came back.

Carlos has the advantage of growing in 10B and you have the advantage of growing in a greenhouse in a climate controlled environment.  There are a lot of California and 10B varieties we simply can't grow here in Florida 9B more often more due to COLD weather not just the heat/humidity.

How often do you go below, say.....26F?  I assume you missed it but back in Jan. 2018 I had a heater failure.  Outside air was 13F, inside 18F.  I thought everything was dead as it was a greenhouse floor of dead leaves.  The citrus and all of the avocados made it, including the Reed.  Lost my precious cocktail mangos, most of them Zill varieties.  7 mos. later the Reed was going nuts, as is everything right now.  I expect a very heavy crop of everything next year - avocados, mangos, citrus.
 
Feb. 1.  Reed was cut back to 3 stubs.



7 months later, Oct.



Quote
  Record low here in SW Florida 9B is around 20 degrees.  We even had snowball fights here 25 years ago.........

Well said regarding the microclimates.  I think it was the heavy canopy and mulch micro climate that got my trees thru that ultra hard freeze.  That and THE most important factor - they were acclimatized, subject to mid to low 30's for a few days prior.  What kills us in Texas is these wide temp swings brought on by Arctic blasts.  80F one day, 25F the next morning.

I have a friend in Houston that has a 16' cocktail mango tree.  Fruits well and heavy.  He has a PVC rig to protect them come winter.

Good luck!

15
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Review of Kampong Avocado
« on: November 12, 2019, 12:44:11 AM »
How's this tree doing now Carlos? I was wondering if it held fruit until Mar 2019 and if it was ready to bear fruit this year at this time.

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Help to ID this Mexican Race avocado
« on: November 10, 2019, 03:21:35 PM »
Carlos I read a while back you were grafting to Mexican seedling as root stock. How is this project coming along? Are they producing semi dwarf trees? How is it holding up as rootstock in south FL?

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It did end up flowering and setting quite a few small fruit. All of the fruit dropped so it looks like nature made the right decision for me. One thing I noticed is the local bees seemed to really love the ON flowers. This alone made me quite happy as I know I have local pollinators other than the wind to help me get the job done.

I can't believe how much these things bolt during and after flowering. She put on almost 2 feet since bud break. This was even with 3 main shoots. We still have another 3-4 months in the growing season here in zone 9b. I'm hoping next flowering season leaves me with a couple of fruits. It would be right there on the edge next year being a 6 ft tree with a 1.5" trunk.

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Avocado pickles!
« on: February 19, 2019, 07:34:00 PM »
Sorry old thread. These do not get soggy?

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Monster avocado
« on: February 19, 2019, 07:00:00 PM »
Nice. How's the taste? I've had no luck with store bought WI avocados (or as well call them Florida avocados) but I imagine if you pick them at the right time they aren't the watercados we get from Publix.

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O man that's gonna be tough. Is it possible to keep 1 or 2 or just not worth taking the energy away from the plant (or will fruit taste bad not ripen)

21
I was looking at Carlos's (CTMIAMI) website and I believe these are budding, flowers. Can anyone here confirm?



I just purchased the tree a year ago late Jan 2018 which was in a 3 gallon pot. It is an oro negro grafted to lula seedling per the nursery (toptropicals.com). She is about 4 ft tall but I believe the nursery topped it for shipping so she has 3 main upright shoots. I can't believe after 1 year in the ground it would flower so are these in fact buds? It doesn't look like the flush it got last year which didn't start until March/Apr and flush was red. How tall do cados needs to be to bear their first fruit?

I'm in North Orlando, FL usda zone 9b

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Oro Negro is nothing like Blazos Bell or any of the so called cold hardy varieties from Arizona/Texas. Is a very fine piece of fruit. Creamy, taste like an A + Catalina, close to a Nishikawa

I think in your blog you were talking about top working your Oro negros with something else. Did you end up keeping the ONs? I know Irma set the grove back last year but I was wondering specifically how these were doing. I put an ON in the ground this year and I'm quite excited.

23
Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad I didn't go with any of the 'texas cados' I ended up going with the oro negro which I hope to be hardy enough for my area. I expect I will keep it covered at least for the first couple of years but I understand it can take upper 20s without any major issues.I figured I'd rather deal with a hard freeze knocking my cado back to the trunk than deal with crappy fruit.

24
8 months post initial posting I can confirm that the trees grafted on Mexicola are a lot smaller that any other trees I grafted on WI root stock.

What scion did you graft and how is it doing now almost 4-5 yrs later?

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Oro Negro Vigor and cold hardiness
« on: January 22, 2018, 09:22:34 PM »
I will have to keep my pruning shears sharp... I went with the Oro Negro and I hope to keep it somewhat tame. I just couldn't get over how delicious the fruit looked.... Just looked like a x-large hass.

I think she comes in the mail tomorrow so I'm pretty excited.

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