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Messages - Tropicalgrower89

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1
During this time of year they shed their old leaves and grow new ones. I wouldn’t worry about. Don’t under or over water it. Stick your finger in the soil to see if it is moist. I recommend adding some osmocote fertilizer if it hasn’t been recently transplanted.
That's a relief, @Tropicalgrower89! Based on your avatar I feel you might be a good resource here. :-) I am using Sunniland 6-6-6 for the fertilizer, with some lawn lime for calcium, and just hit it with a bit of chelated iron and epsom. Hopefully it perks up after this mini dormancy period.

And thank you @Galatians522 too. I'm sorry to hear about your mamey. Mine is at a similar stage as yours (6ft) but I'm hoping maybe since I'm one zone up from you this one might do okay. I seem to be in a warmer microclimate too here, between two neighbors' swimming pools and on a slight decline (so cold air rolls down from me).

Glad I can help. :-) Just use a good slow release fertilizer with minor elements. If you want to add calcium, sprinkle a little bit of gypsum (calcium sulfate) not lime since lime can make the soil too alkaline.
Thanks I appreciate that tip too.

You’re welcome 🙂👍🏻

2
During this time of year they shed their old leaves and grow new ones. I wouldn’t worry about. Don’t under or over water it. Stick your finger in the soil to see if it is moist. I recommend adding some osmocote fertilizer if it hasn’t been recently transplanted.
That's a relief, @Tropicalgrower89! Based on your avatar I feel you might be a good resource here. :-) I am using Sunniland 6-6-6 for the fertilizer, with some lawn lime for calcium, and just hit it with a bit of chelated iron and epsom. Hopefully it perks up after this mini dormancy period.

And thank you @Galatians522 too. I'm sorry to hear about your mamey. Mine is at a similar stage as yours (6ft) but I'm hoping maybe since I'm one zone up from you this one might do okay. I seem to be in a warmer microclimate too here, between two neighbors' swimming pools and on a slight decline (so cold air rolls down from me).

Glad I can help. :-) Just use a good slow release fertilizer with minor elements. If you want to add calcium, sprinkle a little bit of gypsum (calcium sulfate) not lime since lime can make the soil too alkaline.

3
During this time of year they shed their old leaves and grow new ones. I wouldn’t worry about it. Don’t under or over water it. Stick your finger in the soil to see if it is moist. I recommend adding some osmocote fertilizer if it hasn’t been recently transplanted.

4
Thanks for sharing the soil details! I hadn't looked this up before and didn't realize the diversity of soil types. According to FL soil survey map, https://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?layers=3995a23b3e4541deb336bc1bf9b076d1, I've got the ridge "Tavares sand" which is considered "farmland of unique importance" and a small section of "Arents" soil. No irrigation here but I've always mulched and tried to increase organic matter.

Nice find! I like the map. Another cool one is web soil survey. https://websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov/app/WebSoilSurvey.aspx The photo feature worked this time, so I was able to add pictures to my last post. I'm in entisols with some areas close by with spodosols. Might not be 100 percent accurate since I think my soil is a spodosol. Just one block over the soil looks a bit different. Sandy also, but a bit more rock it seems. D's Fruit Trees uploaded a video of him planting a large nam doc mai mango and I recognized the area. I could see the palms that are in my block on the other side. lol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2nHWktUil8

5
Same here. In eastern Pembroke Pines, it looks like I have immokalee fine sand which is flatwoods soil. The sapodilla and mango has it's roots within the top black organic layer and hardly any roots within with thick white layer. I've dug 3 feet down and still get white sand. I guess since that layer tends to dry out quickly and has very little nutrients, the roots seem to avoid it even though it is very soft. Flood insurance is also not required where I live either, which makes sense, since it hardly ever floods unless it downpours for very long periods of time. Out of the 12 years I've been living here, I've seen the low area of my back yard remain flooded for about two hours before draining away.






7
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Fruit tree ID (in Miami)
« on: April 05, 2024, 03:49:20 PM »
I think a fresh ripe fruit pic would provide a better idea of what it is. Try seeing if you can zoom in or try to pick one if possible.

The third photo in the first post is as close as I can zoom. I went around and scoped out ways to get closer and even on the roof I'd need a tall ladder to get within reach of it. Their roof is flat, though, so I could probably do that if it were something really tasty, but I'm probably not going to all that effort just for the ID.

It seems like the fruit turn from yellow to reddish purple when ripe, and then they don't fall off until they are totally dried out, if a bird doesn't get them first.

Yeah, not worth getting into an accident and hurting yourself. Looks like some sort of a pouteria species.  Loquat has fruit on clustered stems.

8
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Fruit tree ID (in Miami)
« on: April 05, 2024, 03:17:48 PM »
I think a fresh ripe fruit pic would provide a better idea of what it is. Try seeing if you can zoom in or try to pick one if possible.

9
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Fruit tree ID (in Miami)
« on: April 05, 2024, 02:41:19 PM »
Ross Sapote or some sort of a pouteria species.

10
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Top-Working Coconut Cream.
« on: April 03, 2024, 01:57:33 PM »
Definitely match growth rates on cocktail trees or one will take over pretty quickly.

Lop off a branch and graft the water sprouts. That's the easiest way.

Bummer to see a CC get top-worked though. That's still one of my favorite mangoes.
:)

I am keeping one side coconut cream and the other side I am changing to m4 if I stay at my current home. If I need to move due to a future job (graduating optometry school in May), then it is staying as a large coconut cream tree.

11
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Top-Working Coconut Cream.
« on: March 30, 2024, 12:16:07 AM »
^ Good point. Will take that into consideration. Thanks!

12
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Top-Working Coconut Cream.
« on: March 29, 2024, 09:18:07 PM »
Cool. Thanks! I'm thinking about converting my large 10 year-old coconut cream into an M4 and 40-26 cocktail tree or leaving one side coconut cream. It has two main branches forking from one trunk.

13
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Top-Working Coconut Cream.
« on: March 29, 2024, 08:45:13 PM »
Just wondering if anybody has successfully top worked coconut cream to another mango variety?  Reason I am asking is that I remember reading a few years ago that Coconut Cream wood tends to not heal as well as other mango varieties, so it is better to just chop it down and plant another mango tree in it's place. I think it was bsbullie that posted that comment if I remembered correctly.

14
Looks like a Carrie.

15
Probably just a bit of cold and mildew damage. These are leafy blooms, so those leaves are temporary.

16
Viejo and Tazumal are winter mamey cultivars. My Viejo and Pantin bloom at the same time, but Viejo fruit development period is shorter. My Viejo takes 11 to 12 months from flower to mature fruit, while my Pantin takes 1.5 years more or less.

Thanks! I personally dislike the flavor of Pantin. Tastes too sweet and doesn't really have the almond flavor I enjoy from Mamey.

I guess if you had to pick between Viejo and Tazumal, which would you pick? (or anyone else reading)

I have no experience with Tazumal with the exception of Julian of Lara Farms mentioning that it has a tendency of uneven ripening. Viejo is a productive tough tree, but fruits are on the small side most of the time and fruit quality can vary in regards to sweetness ( mamey flavored potato to a sweet delicious mamey).

17
Viejo and Tazumal are winter mamey cultivars. My Viejo and Pantin bloom at the same time, but Viejo fruit development period is shorter. My Viejo takes 11 to 12 months from flower to mature fruit, while my Pantin takes 1.5 years more or less.

18
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mamey sapote in 10b
« on: January 25, 2024, 01:11:46 PM »
I think you can grow mamey with no issues in 10 b.

19
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: K-40 Mamey Sapote
« on: January 22, 2024, 02:38:45 PM »
I asked Alex by email a while back, and he said that there's not much known about it.

I think the cultivar was originally from Costa Rica and obtained by Richard Campbell/Fairchild Garden. Alex said he hadn't tasted it yet, but if it was retrieved by Campbell and given a cultivar name, it most likely is pretty special!

This was back in 2021, so Alex's tree(s) may have fruited allowing him to taste since then.  I'm ordering one from Lara Farms now, hopefully can report back on it in a few years!

Kevin

Cool. 🙂 Pozo azul is another cultivar from Costa Rica as well. It is listed in the Lara Farms website.

20
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: plant id needed
« on: January 22, 2024, 08:38:21 AM »
If it is growing above the graft, then it is a grafted mamey tree. Green sapote leaves look different.

21
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: plant id needed
« on: January 21, 2024, 05:43:15 PM »
Looks like mamey.

22
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mango Bloom in South Florida
« on: January 12, 2024, 11:14:33 AM »
My Carrie has flowers.

23
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: My First Successful Mamey Graft!
« on: December 19, 2023, 08:21:57 AM »
Thanks! I think the key is timing ( fall or spring), leaving some leaves to keep the scion active, and bagging the tree to create a mini greenhouse around the plant to keep it in a humid environment. Also keep an eye out for developing suckers at the base of the seedling. Just use the parafilm/grafting tape to seal the graft union itself.

24
Tropical Fruit Discussion / My First Successful Mamey Graft!
« on: December 16, 2023, 02:09:33 PM »
I've tried grafting mamey scions onto new branches of my older mamey trees to make a cocktail tree a few times, tried grafting a couple of larger seedlings by doing a side-cleft graft with no leaves (wrapped in parafilm) like a mango a couple of times with no luck. Recently, I have tried doing a cleft graft using a scion with leaves on it and covering the plant and pot with a moisture bag to create a mini green house affect and it worked! I had a 2 year old Pace mamey that had an extra branch that I did not want, plus I had a young vigorous Viejo seedling with a thick stem, so I thought "why not give it a try". Grafted it, and a couple of weeks later, I noticed fresh sap leaking from the stem, which was a good sign. But, it started forming clusters of suckers from the base of the seedling. I left it as is, thinking that I will trim them off when I remove the bag when the scion begins pushing leaves. Unfortunately, it began dropping it's leaves. That is when I cut a small hole in the bag and snipped off the suckers with a pair of scissors and taped it back up.  A week later, it began pushing new leaves and I removed the bag. Only one leaf stayed on the scion. It took a total of 3 weeks. Here are pictures from a week ago and now a week later. I am not planning on selling it.










One week later.













25
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Annona tree ID
« on: November 22, 2023, 09:24:23 AM »
Probably chirimoya aka reticulata. 

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