The Tropical Fruit Forum

Goyo626, yes I had the same problem when I grafted the sumo/shiranui on my trees. You should remove all but 1-2 fruits on the first year fruited branch since they weigh so much. On the second year I let 13 fruits stay on my grafted branch and it was still too heavy with fruits that it cracked. But since I caught the problem before the branch completely severed off, I was able to tape it back and put a large support stick and got all the fruits to ripen (tasted good) and the half broken branch healed fine now. It took another year for this branch (5/8" diameter) to heal. Lesson learned, don't let all the fruits hang, only 1-2 so you can verify its the correct variety.

Luckily i have another graft of it. I cut off the broken part and since its so vigorous it will likely branch out right below the cut and keep growing. Ill make sure to remove most fruits next time.

Has anyone tried maltaise demi sanguine and boukhabza?

It’s kinda hard to tell, especially without seeing both sides of the seed but they both look mono to me. I call it a poly seed if I see definitive borders or segmentations of the seed. Seeing multiple origins of roots on the same seed is another good indication that a seed is Polyembryonic.

Simon

I checked both seeds and the m4 does look like mono. But the butter cream fell apart into pieces so im assuming its poly.

Which ones are the polyembryonic varieties?

Ive done some research on the matter both from the tropical acres website and old threads on this forum. Sweet tart, m-4, buttercream, honeykiss, and  ppk are all poly.

Following thread might be helpful to find more poly seeds.
https://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=12030.msg392320#msg392320

Why is that? Is it due to the rate at which its growing?

My grafted sweet tart gets droopy mid to late winter. Im hoping as the tree matures it grows out of the problem. A seedling is more likely to be more vigorous and have a tap root. Also a seedling wont flower for the first couple of years allowing for more growth flushes per year. I have had a couple of grafted trees that have flowered in their second year in ground which has slowed its growth. If i had to start over i would find members that are willing to sell polyembryonic seeds of top varieties and grow trees from seeds.

Finally got to try a sweet tart mango. It met all the expectations. I only got 2 sweet tarts this year so hoping for at least 2x next year.

Here are some pics and review.











Picked: 09/16/2021

Consumed: 9/21/21

Sweet Tart Nubbin (West Covina)

Weight: when picked 285grams. 262 grams when eaten (dont know if fruit loses weight as it ripens or if it is a scale issue

Exterior color: mostly yellow with green

Interior color : Deep orange almost apricot like color

Brix: 29 near seed. 31 near skin

Aroma: Complex smells sweet and piney.

Texture: the outside of the fruit was semi firm, not mushy nor wrinkly gave slightly to pressure. The inside very soft but not mushy or overly delicate. You could take a bite and it would hold its shape. But there is no need to chew. You can press the flesh with your tongue to the roof of your mouth and extract the syrup, then swallow the flesh.  The flesh was slippery with syrup. when cut the syrup gushed out of the mango slowly and clung to the knife. It was not watery like when cutting open a watermelon. It was similar ripe peaches only more viscous. The flesh was virtually fiberless.

Flavor: Sweet with some tartness on the back end. complex mango flavor. Flavor close to the skin more piney, resiney with cola syrup taste. Various different flavors are perceived with each bite. Goes from syrup sweet mango to pops of vegetal pineyness to tart overtones in a matter of seconds. Very hard to describe as you are thinking of one flavor another one barges in taking away your focus on the previous flavor. Makes it hard to put your finger on exactly what flavors are present. Fruit did not feel overly sweet given its very high brix. The tartness likely balanced the high sugar. Tartness was not overly strong, however, since the brix was at least 29 the fact that it was perceivable points to a strong tart flavor if brix had been lower. The tartness itself is not a citrus tartness but more of a sour candy (like the tart of sour belts). Outstanding overall fruit.

Negatives: the fruit was a nubbin and the husk had no seed.

Quote from: Madridje on September 15, 2021, 02:53:10 PM

When would planting in the ground be best for seedling grown mangoes?

Would you prep the soil with anything or just go ahead an plant?

My favorite time is June to mid September when night temp is 60F and above.  Favorite location for SoCal: Eastern side of the structure that will provide shade in the hot afternoon.
I planted the seeds directly on ground without even bending my back: place the seed (not de-hushed) on top of soil, cover it with 3" layer of leaves to keep the seed from drying out and the sun (in nature the falling seeds grow in the bush or thick much of leaves). Water the pile every day until 4" shoot appeared, then cut down to once per week. This direct in ground way save me from dealing with transplanting the long tap root seedlings, and I'm lazy.

The best time to start growing Mango Seedlings is April-June in SoCal based on my experience. I usually start them in 5-gallon pots. Move them up to seven-gallon containers a year later. Never tried to start mango seeds this late in the season. We are heading into the cool months soon and growth will stop by late November. Not sure how they will work for you. Pots are easier as you can move the small plants inside if necessary to keep them warm during the coldest periods. Greenhouses are better yet. Let us know how they work out. Hopefully, you will have some survivors. 

Johnny

Would a seed taken from a ripe fruit at the end of september be viable until june or should i just risk planting it as soon as possible and baby it through winter?

I had this conversation in a thread with Har a few years ago and we believe they are not true to seed. Since, I’ve fruited grafted and seedling Giant Yucatán in La Habra CA and I couldn’t tell the differences. I have 6-7 varieties ,1.5 year old seedling saramuyos, growing right now in CA and they’ve bloom this year….trees are too small to hold, maybe next year. Another added bonus is they are as cold hardy as cherimoyas and atemoyas in La Habra where sugar apples struggle.  Do a search in the forum on saramuyos and you’ll see the leaves totally different of any sugar apple. Saramuyos are supremely delicious as good as Aussies atemoyas and California cherimoyas. You can also see the leaves on my Instagram.

Do saramuyos need to be hand pollinated?

Hi Sapote,
Thank you for the heads up. I am about to start growing LZ in Southern Italy. Our summer sun is intense!. I will make sure to provide some shade.

Cheers.

Curious, how did you manage to get a lemon zest tree to Italy?

 

One thing members can experiment with is to remove the early blooms or the early fruit set. You just have to ensure there is enough time and cold weather so that there will be a second or third bloom. You can tell ahead of time if the fruit are nubbins or not because of the more rounded shape and increased lenticils.

Simon
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Where do you make the cuts for rebloom? Take off most of the panicle? Below the panicle but above the terminal bud (from where the panicle blooms? Or below the terminal bud?
Thanks.

I had a sweet tart mango that was accidentally picked at a non optimal time. I tried to ripen it. The mango started wrinkling so i decided to cut it open and try it. It was very tart with a sour belt candy quality. I thought the sugar level would be low possibly under 10 brix. To my surprise the sugar level was 25 brix. My guess is the fruit was just so start that it masked the sweetness. I wanted to plant the seed, however, there was no seed inside the husk.

Has anyone experienced a husk with no seed inside?

pomona farm store nursery had el bumpo but they dont put them up for sale until august. Very nice plants.

Nice Goya626,

Honey kiss is a very productive variety in SoCal but it can be so productive that it doesn’t grow much if you let it hold too much fruit. Please keep us updated!

Simon

The honeykiss graft is on a potted tree, i dont expect it to grow much. Im hoping it keeps fruit so i can start seeds since according to my research honeykiss is polyembryonic.