Author Topic: Mychorrhizae; is it worth it?  (Read 2323 times)

starling1

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 983
    • Queensland, Australia
    • View Profile
Mychorrhizae; is it worth it?
« on: May 28, 2015, 06:32:09 AM »
I've seen a few reports of people using it who say they don't seem to notice any difference when including it as part of their nutrient regime. Anyone able to share their experiences with it?

Mike T

  • Zone 12a
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 9014
  • Cairns,Nth Qld, Australia
    • Zone 12a
    • View Profile
Re: Mychorrhizae; is it worth it?
« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2015, 10:09:40 AM »
The word on the street is no regarding whether mycorrhizal application is worthwhile.It would be interesting to know if anyone has had positive experiences.

FlyingFoxFruits

  • Prince of Plinia
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 12548
  • www.FlyingFoxFruits.com
    • USA, FEMA Region IV, FL Zone 9a
    • View Profile
    • Flying Fox Fruits
Re: Mychorrhizae; is it worth it?
« Reply #2 on: May 28, 2015, 10:25:11 AM »
The word on the street is no regarding whether mycorrhizal application is worthwhile.It would be interesting to know if anyone has had positive experiences.

Probably depends on what species your are growing ... And at what stage of development your plant is at


Don't certain seeds require specific mycorrhizal components to germinate? (Orchids are one example)
www.FlyingFoxFruits.com

www.PLINIAS.com

https://www.ebay.com/usr/flyingfoxfruits

www.youtube.com/FlyingFoxFruits

https://www.instagram.com/flyingfoxfruits/
I disabled the forum's personal messaging system, please send an email to contact me, FlyingFoxFruits@gmail.com

nullzero

  • Zone 10a
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3769
    • View Profile
Re: Mychorrhizae; is it worth it?
« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2015, 12:08:09 PM »
Try an experiment, use clear plastic containers and germinate hybrid tomato seeds between two sets of sterile soiless mixes. Try using mychorrhizae in one set of containers and have a control in the other. It may help wrapping some black plastic or material around the containers to block sunlight. After a few weeks, you can just compare the visible roots from the visible sides of the containers.

I use mycogrow, it only costs like $5 and it goes a long way. I believe it helps, but have not did a control test myself. I am putting my trust that Paul Stamets company's controlled test pictures and stated information are accurate of the products effectiveness.

Here are some pictures of some roots from a dragon fruit cutting, mycogrow was used. The fuzziness on the roots does indeed look like mychorrhizae.





« Last Edit: May 28, 2015, 12:14:46 PM by nullzero »
Grow mainly fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

Patrick

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: I am a geek!!
    • USA, Palm Beach, FL 33467, Zone 10a
    • View Profile
Re: Mychorrhizae; is it worth it?
« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2015, 12:14:40 PM »
It also helps to use a rain stick during dry season to induce thunderstorms.  I would inoculate the soil with fertilizer at the same time though.  I actually did plant a lot of my trees with mychorrizae just because (Murahilin duped me into it).  Its magic stuff!

fyliu

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3216
    • Burbank/Covina, CA 10a
    • View Profile
Re: Mychorrhizae; is it worth it?
« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2015, 12:19:02 PM »
It's not a nutrient and useless if you water it in.

Yes, I think it depends on whether the strain of mycorrhizae is compatible with the plant. They try to include a mix of them that are generalists which are not picky about which species plant to associate with.

Mycorrhizae are fungi and they are territorial. If your plant is already inhabited by another fungus, that fungus will fight off the mycorrhizae "invaders". In that case the only chance is at the new root growths. Other soil fungi can also kill the mycorrhizae.

So it's basically a crap shoot, no guarantees. You can increase the odds by applying mycorrhizae near where the new roots form, or rub it on the roots when you transplant.

buddyguygreen

  • Keeper of Earth
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 978
  • Zone Creator
    • Citrus Ridge, FL,
    • View Profile
    • Knowledge of the Masters
Re: Mychorrhizae; is it worth it?
« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2015, 12:47:22 PM »
It works, it carries nutrients around the yard to different plants. Its the intelligence of the soil.  Get a small pack of mykos for $4  or a pack or mycogrow for $5 try it out. I put a couple grains of that mykos in each pot and around each tree and distributed the small pack throughout the yard and it takes over, it spreads fast.

greenman62

  • CharlesitaveNB
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1277
    • [url=https://vgruk.com/]vgr uk[/url]
    • View Profile
Re: Mychorrhizae; is it worth it?
« Reply #7 on: May 28, 2015, 03:17:12 PM »
ive used it several times.
i did a papaya trail, with and without, and there was a huge difference.
but, mainly i think on soil-less media and potting soil.

In the ground there was little difference, and the difference i did see, may have been because
of the humic acid and other bacteria in the mix (Paul Stamets myco-grow)
To me, there is no question they work, but, i have read some companies
have poor quality control, and the number of colonies can be quite low.

i had done some reading, and Glomus I. and Glomus Mosseae
are 2 that work well with papaya.
i am guessing i have those in my (outdoor) soil, in large enough amounts.

My potting soil was obviously lacking these in sufficient quantities.

It should be noted, that AMF have a harder time increasing
if there are high levels of phosphorus in the soil

soils are different though.
while many soils have many types
If a species of plant that normally live in the forest, is put into a sandy soil,
those Mychorizae may not be present, because there were no indigenous plants that used them,
so, if they were ever present, they could have died out.

In that case, it certainly makes sense to spend $5 or whatever, to put them in the soil.

This is also one reason i NEVER use an anti-fungal.

One study showed that the fungi travel in the soil at about 18 inches per year
so, if you have a large area that is devoid, it can take a long time
for natural processes to work their way in.

i have also gone to a wooded area near my house
and added a few handfuls of soil from there to each plant.
i had gotten a 3-cubic ft load of soil.
When it gets loaded, moved in a truck etc...
the soil is exposed to the sun, and turned over
often killing most of the soil life.
Mixing in my own soil, and that of the local woods, i think helped a lot.

there is a ton of info online almost all ive seen, show it as a benefit.
here are a couple from my files...

------------
Effect of Glomus mosseae and Entrophospora colombiana on plant growth, production, and fruit quality of ‘Maradol’ papaya (Carica papaya L.)

The effect of inoculating ‘Maradol’ papaya plants with arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi (AMF) Glomus mosseae (GM) and Entrophospora colombiana (EC) was assessed. The results showed that both mycorrhizae species increased the number of fruits and yield in papaya plants by 41.9 and 105.2% for GM and 22.1 and 44.1% for EC, respectively, with respect to control plants. GM significantly increased plant height. Sugar content, firmness, color (°Hue), and ripening process of mycorrhized plant fruits were similar to those of the control. Weight loss of mycorrhized plant fruits was considerably less than that of the control. Inoculation of papaya with AMF is recommended, particularly with GM since it increases yield, and fruit weight (45.1%), furthermore, it reduced fruit weight loss during ripening.
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S030442381100046X
---------------
Arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi benefit mango (Mangifera indica L.) plant growth in the field

Abstract
The rhizospheres of three year old-mango (Mangifera indica L.) rootstocks namely, Vellakulamban, Bappakai, Olour, Chandrakaran, Necker, Peach, Totapuri and Vellakulamban were studied for the spore load of arbuscular mycorrhizal (AM) fungi and root colonization at 15 cm, and 30 cm depths. Mycorrhizal spores were highest in Totapuri followed by Bappakai, Olour and Peach and Vellakulamban at 15 cm depth. Spores belonged to the genera Glomus and Acaulospora and few other genera, the predominant ones being Glomus fasciculatum and Glomus mosseae as identified by their morphology. The colonization of the root was higher in Vellakullamban and Totapuri rootstocks. Frequently occurring AM species were initially multiplied on finger millet (Eleucine coracona L.) in paper cups filled with soilrite and then in 12 in. pots that contained 1:1 sand soil mixture. The rootstock cultivars predominantly used for grafting mango scions in southern India were screened for their response to AM inoculation in pot culture. All the rootstock seedlings responded to mycorrhizal inoculations showed varied intensity of root colonization and improved plant height, growth and nutrient content compared to non-mycorrhizal in pot culture. Under field conditions, rootstock cv Totapuri inoculated with AM fungi and scions of mango hybrids Arka Aruna and Arka Puneeth grafted on them produced shoots earlier compared to non-mycorrhizal plants. Within two years of application of AM fungi yearly, clear difference in growth performance of mycorrhizal and nonmycorrhizal plants was observed. Plant growth studied in terms of number of branches, available soil P, leaf P, Zn and Cu improved significantly in AM colonized plants compared to uninoculated plants. This trend continued in the 8th year of sampling. The root acid and alkaline phosphatase activity was higher in six month old Arka Puneeth grafted on AM colonized Totapuri rootstock. Mycorrhizal inoculums can be easily multiplied on-farm on finger millet and applied yearly for desired results.
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0304423812002610

African farmers are increasingly adopting sustainable agricultural practices including use of native shrub
intercropping approaches. In one village of Sénégal (near Thiès) it was reported that farmers planted
mango (Mangifera indica) seedlings within the canopies of a native shrub (Piliostigma reticulatum).
Anecdotal information and qualitative observations suggested that the presence of P. reticulatum
promoted soil quality and a competitive advantage for establishing mango plantations. We hypothesized
that soil chemical and microbial properties of mango rhizosphere soil growing in the presence of P.
reticulatum would be significantly improved over soils associated with mango growing outside the
influence of P. reticulatum. The results showed that mango-shrub interplanting significantly lowered pH,
and increased arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi (AMF) colonization of mango roots, enzyme activities, and
microbial biomass compared to mango alone. Phylogenetic analyses by PCR-denaturing gradient gel
electrophoresis (DGGE) showed that community structures of fungi, bacteria, and bacterial genes
responsible for denitrification (nirK) of the soil from the rooting zone of the mango-shrub intercropping
system were distinct from all other soil outside the influence of P. reticulatum. It is concluded that P.
reticulatum enhances soil biological functioning and that there is a synergistic effect of intercropping
mango with the native shrub, P. reticulatum, in soil quality with a more diverse community, greater AMF
infection rates, and greater potential to perform decomposition and mineralize nutrients
http://static1.squarespace.com/static/524fa55ee4b04b668ead159f/t/5509b1b8e4b02b7f525300ea/1426698680186/Hernandez+et+al.+2015+AE%26E+Mango+Shrub.pdf
« Last Edit: May 28, 2015, 03:20:13 PM by greenman62 »