Author Topic: Cutting the Top Off (Mango)  (Read 1887 times)

E31ISCOMMAND

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Cutting the Top Off (Mango)
« on: May 18, 2019, 05:10:25 AM »
Advise on whether or not cutting the top off this mango is a good idea.  I really want the plant to be more bushy for pot type growth.  Should I cut it off where marked in photo?  Background, in Phoenix AZ, hot and sunny, 5 y.o., in large pot (will remain), Glenn, fruited well 2 years ago, dropped all but 1 this year.

Thank you for your input


« Last Edit: May 18, 2019, 10:03:54 PM by E31ISCOMMAND »

E31ISCOMMAND

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Re: Cutting the Top Off (Mango)
« Reply #1 on: May 19, 2019, 04:32:11 PM »
No one with experience?

SeaWalnut

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Re: Cutting the Top Off (Mango)
« Reply #2 on: May 19, 2019, 04:42:00 PM »
Dont cut it from there because you will get the same growing pattern.To get a multistemmed tree you have to cut it lower but the tree looks soo good that i wouldnt cut it at all.

lebmung

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Re: Cutting the Top Off (Mango)
« Reply #3 on: May 19, 2019, 05:22:13 PM »
You can cut from there, it will make a lot of sprouts however it will not fruit next year.
Don't cut lower is a bad idea you will cut all the sugar production and tree will need more than 2 years to recover.
A better approach it is to leave only two limbs and cut 10 inches above where you pointed leaving buds exposed. This way you don't miss the fruit next year.
I grow 8 mangoes varieties in containers and prune them yearly to dwarf them. Also for that tree size no more than 1-2 fruits per tree.

Das Bhut

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Re: Cutting the Top Off (Mango)
« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2019, 01:50:30 AM »
You can cut from there, it will make a lot of sprouts however it will not fruit next year.
Don't cut lower is a bad idea you will cut all the sugar production and tree will need more than 2 years to recover.
A better approach it is to leave only two limbs and cut 10 inches above where you pointed leaving buds exposed. This way you don't miss the fruit next year.
I grow 8 mangoes varieties in containers and prune them yearly to dwarf them. Also for that tree size no more than 1-2 fruits per tree.

in Florida the tree would take a few months to recover but it would have more fruiting branches afterwards http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=8052.msg103845#msg103845

http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=22454.msg271519#msg271519
« Last Edit: May 20, 2019, 01:52:45 AM by Das Bhut »

lebmung

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Re: Cutting the Top Off (Mango)
« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2019, 04:45:33 AM »
Yes in Florida but in a pot culture in Arizona would take double the time to recover during the winters and the very hot dry summers, plus difficulty of watering where too much water can lead to root rot.
Cutting back a mature wooden branch it will make very strong new shoots which will not produce flower
in the next year.

E31ISCOMMAND

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Re: Cutting the Top Off (Mango)
« Reply #6 on: May 22, 2019, 07:14:31 AM »
I've been away but wanted to thank you for your info

Mark in Texas

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Re: Cutting the Top Off (Mango)
« Reply #7 on: May 22, 2019, 08:31:18 AM »
No one with experience?

Yep. Notice from the topping in April to the growth come November. 

http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=21887.0

Year later....


« Last Edit: May 22, 2019, 08:34:48 AM by Mark in Texas »

E31ISCOMMAND

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Re: Cutting the Top Off (Mango)
« Reply #8 on: May 24, 2019, 04:15:54 AM »
So if I understand I should cut the main branches 10 inches in?

I really appreciate your support



Mark in Texas

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Re: Cutting the Top Off (Mango)
« Reply #9 on: May 24, 2019, 08:59:13 AM »
So if I understand I should cut the main branches 10 inches in?

I really appreciate your support



Depends on what you're trying to do.  With my LZ I wanted the permanent scaffold branches to start low so I cut above the first node.  I ended up with what I wanted - 7 permanent scaffold branches to build on.  See my link.  Those in Florida may want more airflow near ground level and may choose to get those lower branches off the ground.

I start or train my peach trees the same way. The first scaffold branches are about 18" above the ground.  They're also almost horizontal.  January dormancy.
 


Here's another technique you mango growers ought to play with - a single espalier profile without the wall aka a single perpendicular profile.  I'm training a new peach tree this way.  You create this single plane of foliage so that you can easily access the canopy front and back rather than around a circle of canopy.  Need more airflow?  Train the left to right foliage so that it faces your prevailing winds.

https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C878&title=Simple%20Tree%20Training%20Technique%20for%20Peaches#Perpendicular

Not sure what you mean by 10" in.  Anywhere you cut is going to induce foliage output behind those cuts.
« Last Edit: May 24, 2019, 09:01:28 AM by Mark in Texas »