Author Topic: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite  (Read 14822 times)

JF

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #25 on: May 05, 2015, 11:41:59 AM »
$23.87 that's cheap!!we need to start a group order here and all pick up in anaheim......I'll take 5

I'll take 5 also, if Frank or Behl could get this group order going.

Ok let's get this group order started maybe Behl can start a different enough of this Dynagro talk

5 for me
5 Behl
5 Thera
10 AZ
We need 15 more who's going to step up? We have the wholesale licenses and the additional 10% group sale

Bush2Beach

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #26 on: May 05, 2015, 01:11:06 PM »
Josh,
 Thanks for showing your fert. Injector plumbed in , that's a good template for farmers to use.
 I do wonder why you say synthetic ferts. For potted plants and organic for in ground, why not just grow organic in pots as well. I would tell people Organics all the way, no need for synthetic ferts. In pots.
  There is certainly a place for micro nutrient foliar sprays and they can be extremely beneficial. I agree Fertilizing the ground is how pro's do it but micro nutrient foliar sprays can't be written off especially in particular species or life stages of the plant.

jbaqai

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #27 on: May 05, 2015, 01:22:10 PM »
i am using the boggie brew compost tea as the base and then add fox farm products on top of it.   if i need growth then big bloom , if flower then tiger bloom

with good results.

now recently i add the organic fertilizers from Kellog,   i love their soil and hoping to have similar quality with their fertilizer

http://www.kellogggarden.com/products/kellogg/fertilizers/

their fertilizer contains mycorrhizae, beneficial microbes, and kelp meal


the fish + kelp liquid version is awesome, i see the result immediately, perk up leaves and growth.  now using in the water that i added to my boggie brew concentration. 

http://www.kellogggarden.com/products/kellogg/fertilizers/?s=fish-kelp-fertilizer



Josh-Los-Angeles

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #28 on: May 05, 2015, 01:43:40 PM »
Josh,
 Thanks for showing your fert. Injector plumbed in , that's a good template for farmers to use.
 I do wonder why you say synthetic ferts. For potted plants and organic for in ground, why not just grow organic in pots as well. I would tell people Organics all the way, no need for synthetic ferts. In pots.
  There is certainly a place for micro nutrient foliar sprays and they can be extremely beneficial. I agree Fertilizing the ground is how pro's do it but micro nutrient foliar sprays can't be written off especially in particular species or life stages of the plant.

The reason for synthetic in pots is that granular organic fertilizers really need huge microbe herds to break down the fertilizers and make it available to the plants. Bone meal, feather, rock phosphate, etc. aren't readily available in their natural form. Organic is really "feel the soil, not the plant" philosophy. In pots, it's harder to do that.

Then again, I've used General Organics entire line of liquid products and they work great for trees in pots. Since it's liquid, the plants can take up the nutrients much easier. But, at the end of the day, I still find Dyna-Gro and Osmocote Plus a better combo, at least for normal tree growing.

I'll check out more micro foliar sprays, maybe that'll be my next research project :)

JF

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #29 on: May 05, 2015, 02:04:27 PM »
Josh,
 Thanks for showing your fert. Injector plumbed in , that's a good template for farmers to use.
 I do wonder why you say synthetic ferts. For potted plants and organic for in ground, why not just grow organic in pots as well. I would tell people Organics all the way, no need for synthetic ferts. In pots.
  There is certainly a place for micro nutrient foliar sprays and they can be extremely beneficial. I agree Fertilizing the ground is how pro's do it but micro nutrient foliar sprays can't be written off especially in particular species or life stages of the plant.

The reason for synthetic in pots is that granular organic fertilizers really need huge microbe herds to break down the fertilizers and make it available to the plants. Bone meal, feather, rock phosphate, etc. aren't readily available in their natural form. Organic is really "feel the soil, not the plant" philosophy. In pots, it's harder to do that.

Then again, I've used General Organics entire line of liquid products and they work great for trees in pots. Since it's liquid, the plants can take up the nutrients much easier. But, at the end of the day, I still find Dyna-Gro and Osmocote Plus a better combo, at least for normal tree growing.

I'll check out more micro foliar sprays, maybe that'll be my next research project :)
Josh great job on your projects let's see if we can get back on track this summer with the CRFG fruit viewers we've all been busy

Josh-Los-Angeles

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #30 on: May 05, 2015, 03:32:44 PM »
Josh,
 Thanks for showing your fert. Injector plumbed in , that's a good template for farmers to use.
 I do wonder why you say synthetic ferts. For potted plants and organic for in ground, why not just grow organic in pots as well. I would tell people Organics all the way, no need for synthetic ferts. In pots.
  There is certainly a place for micro nutrient foliar sprays and they can be extremely beneficial. I agree Fertilizing the ground is how pro's do it but micro nutrient foliar sprays can't be written off especially in particular species or life stages of the plant.

The reason for synthetic in pots is that granular organic fertilizers really need huge microbe herds to break down the fertilizers and make it available to the plants. Bone meal, feather, rock phosphate, etc. aren't readily available in their natural form. Organic is really "feel the soil, not the plant" philosophy. In pots, it's harder to do that.

Then again, I've used General Organics entire line of liquid products and they work great for trees in pots. Since it's liquid, the plants can take up the nutrients much easier. But, at the end of the day, I still find Dyna-Gro and Osmocote Plus a better combo, at least for normal tree growing.

I'll check out more micro foliar sprays, maybe that'll be my next research project :)
Josh great job on your projects let's see if we can get back on track this summer with the CRFG fruit viewers we've all been busy

Definitely, sounds like a plan!

jbaqai

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #31 on: May 05, 2015, 03:54:39 PM »
a great video , in which a experiment was done with diff type of fertilizers

its safe to assume that organic way is the best way to fertilize , chemicals are way too toxic to the soil

http://youtu.be/t2LSymF5-00


behlgarden

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #32 on: May 05, 2015, 04:00:40 PM »
In India, there is state called Sikkim in the North East Himalayas. The state actually banned use of GMO Seeds, chemical fertilizers and pesticides 4 years ago. Farmers took big hit initially with dramatic crop production drop of more than 50%, slowly the production recovered and today the production is over 120% of when chemicals were used and pesticides were used. that is truly one Organic State and it doesn't cost farmer much now given organic fertilizers are naturally made and supplied by within the state.

Earth and soil has its way to come back to life and thrive if we stop tinkering with chemicals. microbes are amazing things.

Josh-Los-Angeles

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #33 on: May 05, 2015, 04:28:56 PM »
a great video , in which a experiment was done with diff type of fertilizers

its safe to assume that organic way is the best way to fertilize , chemicals are way too toxic to the soil

http://youtu.be/t2LSymF5-00

I love organics but that video is really misleading. The problem is he's using Miracle Gro. That stuff is garbage. I guarantee Pro-Mix HP and Osmocote Plus would murder any of those other soil mixes. It wouldn't be organic, but the plants would be much, much larger.

Even better, look up hydropics, aeroponics, etc. There's been massive university studies about this. Heck, every big UC school does these kinds of tests. Synthetic hydro produces wildly more fruit and leafy growth than a plant sitting in a pot of compost. This hasn't been up for debate for 50 years. This is science, it's proven. For a simple test of hydro vs soil: https://sites.google.com/site/hydroponicandsoiltomatogrowth/data

That said, I still use organics for in-ground trees. It's healthier for the soil and trees can't be treated like tomato plants. I also have an aquaponics system that's mostly organic with great results.

But, like I said before, when growing trees in containers, it takes way too long for chunks of bone or flecks of feathers to break down -- you need earthworms and more, which usually aren't present in small containers. Trees can be grown in pots with nothing but organics but the tree doesn't grow as quickly as it would if it has top notch synthetic fertilizer.

Here's a pic I found on the web of soil vs hydro (deep water culture). Hydroponics is the ultimate growing method...but it's not organic:


michsu

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #34 on: May 05, 2015, 04:38:58 PM »
another video from that link:

Foilar Experiment
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlbFGeMlIUk

Bush2Beach

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #35 on: May 05, 2015, 06:36:53 PM »
With the utmost respect to hydroponics and growing large vegetables in limited space while maximizing your water usage, I think that picture may be a little deceiving . It looks like the Tomato plant on the left was just uppotted from 1 gallon to the 5 gallon pictured and perhaps it could have grown as large as the one on the right in a 1 gallon.

nullzero

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #36 on: May 05, 2015, 06:55:03 PM »
I am doing some tests with a new hydro setup. Hydro is faster from what I have done in the past and now. The advantage of soil is obviously long lived trees with much more room to expand in the rootzone and canopy. Hydroponics is the way of the future for annual vegetable farming its 20 times or more water efficient compared to standard farming. Fruits will continue to be grown in soil obviously for their long life.

Here is a good to the point video for people that are introduced into hydroponics, was showing my friends this the other day when they were asking me about the technology and water savings. I was not sure on the exact amount but knew it was well over 90% water savings.

http://brightagrotech.com/water-use-efficiency-hydroponics-aquaponics/
« Last Edit: May 05, 2015, 06:58:42 PM by nullzero »
Grow mainly fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

Josh-Los-Angeles

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #37 on: May 05, 2015, 07:56:29 PM »
I am doing some tests with a new hydro setup. Hydro is faster from what I have done in the past and now. The advantage of soil is obviously long lived trees with much more room to expand in the rootzone and canopy. Hydroponics is the way of the future for annual vegetable farming its 20 times or more water efficient compared to standard farming. Fruits will continue to be grown in soil obviously for their long life.

Here is a good to the point video for people that are introduced into hydroponics, was showing my friends this the other day when they were asking me about the technology and water savings. I was not sure on the exact amount but knew it was well over 90% water savings.

http://brightagrotech.com/water-use-efficiency-hydroponics-aquaponics/

Cool stuff -- what are you trying to grow in hydro? I'm testing out Prime-Ark Blackberries in my aquaponics system and, so far, they're working really well. I now only grow my veggies in my aquaponics system, it's just so much better.

I was actually designing out a large hydro avocado system before I realized it'd cost way more than I wanted to spend -- really, it would take a lot of sacrificial avocados to dial the system in. I have heard there's some commercial indooor avocado grower who has actually mastered hydro avos. I'd love to see that but couldn't find any more info. Also thinking about integrating a mango and guava seedlings into my aquaponics setup.

nullzero

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #38 on: May 05, 2015, 09:56:23 PM »
I am doing some tests with a new hydro setup. Hydro is faster from what I have done in the past and now. The advantage of soil is obviously long lived trees with much more room to expand in the rootzone and canopy. Hydroponics is the way of the future for annual vegetable farming its 20 times or more water efficient compared to standard farming. Fruits will continue to be grown in soil obviously for their long life.

Here is a good to the point video for people that are introduced into hydroponics, was showing my friends this the other day when they were asking me about the technology and water savings. I was not sure on the exact amount but knew it was well over 90% water savings.

http://brightagrotech.com/water-use-efficiency-hydroponics-aquaponics/

Cool stuff -- what are you trying to grow in hydro? I'm testing out Prime-Ark Blackberries in my aquaponics system and, so far, they're working really well. I now only grow my veggies in my aquaponics system, it's just so much better.

I was actually designing out a large hydro avocado system before I realized it'd cost way more than I wanted to spend -- really, it would take a lot of sacrificial avocados to dial the system in. I have heard there's some commercial indooor avocado grower who has actually mastered hydro avos. I'd love to see that but couldn't find any more info. Also thinking about integrating a mango and guava seedlings into my aquaponics setup.

I am working on growing system with a combination of deep water culture (micro pore aerator) and constant drip submersible pump. I am growing arctic rose tomatoes for the test. I want to venture into aquaponics but do not have the room atm (when I move I soon will). Avocado in hydroponics sounds very cool, I don't know how feasible it would be economically in CA. However, in places like Sweden, Russia, Canada, and northern states it may be viable option done indoors.
Grow mainly fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

greenman62

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #39 on: May 06, 2015, 12:52:07 PM »
Just an FYI from what i learned from watching several hours of youtube video's

mostly Dr Elaine Ingham PHD
There are litterally hundereds of hours of excellent videos
that teach the skinney on soil science in laymans terms.
It is proven stuff... she has used this on state parks (after 9-11)
multi-million $ homes (Microsoft), large commercial farms etc...
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Dr+Elaine+Ingham

1.5 hours /
 great video explaining soil health in laymans terms
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x2H60ritjag&index=3&list=PLSmTGMYxo-vifYatZ1XjDV-FdJR6l99U0
also...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Tc7prz1TTM



a great compost tea can be one of the best things you can do.
Just a note.
some plants like fungal dominated soils
some like bacterial dominated soils.
molasses and worm tea are food for bacteria
leaves, fish, beans (proteins) are food for fungi

// The ratio of fungi to bacteria is characteristic to the type of system. Grasslands and agricultural soils usually have bacterial-dominated food webs – that is, most biomass is in the form of bacteria. Highly productive agricultural soils tend to have ratios of fungal to bacterial biomass near 1:1 or somewhat less. Forests tend to have fungal-dominated food webs. The ratio of fungal to bacterial biomass may be 5:1 to 10:1 in a deciduous forest and 100:1 to 1000:1 in a coniferous forest. //
http://urbanext.illinois.edu/soil/SoilBiology/fw&soilhealth.htm

// Bacteria predominate during the early successional stage where weeds, grasses, vegetables and annuals flourish. When weeds and grasses die back, they return to the soil and provide cellulose, organic matter and easy to digest food for bacteria. As this process continues it paves the way for a more conducive environment with greater diversity of organisms and fertile soils for more complex plant species to inhabit. Perennials, scrubs and old growth forest reflect fungal-dominated soil.

Fungi produce more acidic soils (as in forests) whereas bacteria produce a more alkaline environment. //
http://www.forgreenies.com/growing-healthy-soils


fungi perfecti sells an excellent mycorrhizal fungi
http://www.fungi.com/blog/items/mycorrhizal-management.html



Mark in Texas

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #40 on: May 07, 2015, 08:43:32 AM »
With the utmost respect to hydroponics and growing large vegetables in limited space while maximizing your water usage, I think that picture may be a little deceiving . It looks like the Tomato plant on the left was just uppotted from 1 gallon to the 5 gallon pictured and perhaps it could have grown as large as the one on the right in a 1 gallon.

That's not a tomato plant.   8)

Having said that, I've been using Dyna-Gro products for decades.  They are complete with 13 elements including Ca and fine for water culture. All you need is the Foliage Pro and Bloom.  You can mix both to get a more balanced NPK like I did yesterday to water my greenhouse fruiting trees. It's also the best foliar food at a rate of 1/2 tsp./gal.  I air blast my vineyard with a mix of DG, NIS, and whatever fungicide I might need based on current disease pressures.   Foliar is an excellent way to apply plant food, but it doesn't take the place of good soil nutrition.

HOWEVER, I'm getting away from liquid plant foods, even Dyna-Gro.  They have a short shelf life and some salts will eventually precipitate out. DG has been working on this for a while but still hasn't got it corrected.  This is the best food, the best bang for the buck especially for citrus and other tropical fruits (not mango). http://www.amazon.com/77900-Performance-Fertilizer-25-5-15-25-Pound/dp/B008JSIKCU/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_1

Mark
« Last Edit: May 07, 2015, 08:57:28 AM by Mark in Texas »

Mark in Texas

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #41 on: May 07, 2015, 08:49:50 AM »
Also, some of the organics I use in potting soils which DO break down releasing salts in a form that plants can uptake are blood and bone meal and alfalfa meal. There's plenty of microbes in the typical organic potting soil to do the dirty deed, especially if you water a couple of times with rainwater.  Rainwater not only contains microbes but nitrates, especially rain dumped from a thunderstorm.

Aquaponics might be fun, but it's not practical. I have friends who have a huge aquaponics op, tilapia is their nutrition source, and for the inputs required the output is the pits.  Lot's of maintenance too. They're constantly having to clean poop from filters, plumbing and pump issues, etc.

Mark
« Last Edit: May 07, 2015, 08:54:03 AM by Mark in Texas »

NewGen

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #42 on: May 09, 2015, 07:40:56 PM »
thanks  :) if you looked at JF's topic, I also posted in there on this, but wanted to start a new topic to not take away from his original post..

I tried searching for BioFlora, but can't find any online store that sells it.. even the "Dry Crumbles".. JF uses that too, so is it better than Dynagro? I have been reading up on humic acid now and it seems that if it reaches drinking water, it's toxic to humans.. so maybe that's not a good idea then if it touches the skin?.. The azomite I found out is really good for the soil, with like 67 nutrients all together? (on Amazon's page at least).. how much do you apply? Since it will be my first application with Azomite, should I apply more to the hole of each tree and mix it in?

I looked throughout google and found out it's in a 50 pound bag for about $20-25? that's all I can find so far..

also find bioflora's website with this page that shows your different distributors/locations.. but those are all too far  :-\ for me to go to Temecula would be almost 2 hours drive.. dang, everyone else always gets the good stuff.. people in FL gets easy grow because of the weather (not hot and dry like here), and even people here in CA can get good fertilizer except me..   :( I have to do with things like Dr. Earth Organics 9 ($45-50 per 25 pounds on Amazon, which is really expensive) and things like Dynagro that shouldn't be used, that's what JF says..

http://www.bioflora.com/contact/

Here's a simple way to look at it:

-Use synthetic fertilizer for growing trees in pots
-Organic for trees in-ground

Dyna-Gro is great stuff, arguably the best one-part liquid fertilizer out there. If you're growing in pots, use Dyna-Gro if you can handle mixing up batches every time you water. Osmocote Plus or something similar if you can't hand water every time. The best is fertigation with Dyna-Gro or something similar -- this is how the commercial growers do it. Big batches of Peter's or Jack's injected with every watering.

Also, humic acids are not toxic and it's fine if it touches your skin, it's just like compost goo. It's a soil conditioner, no big deal. Same with Azomite. It helps the microbes in the soil and provides some micros over the long term. But neither are actual fertilizers and neither are readily available to the plants, they need microbes to work. If you just use azomite and humic acids and nothing else, your plants will die.

If you're growing in-ground, a popular fert that's granular with lots of humus, check out Gro-Power citrus and fruit. It's sold all over, so no special ordering needed. And it's made in SoCal for SoCal farmers for SoCal soil conditions. Looking at the BioFlora label, there's nothing magic in their mix, pretty generic and missing out on some of the better organic ingredients one would find in Dr. Earth or even General Organics, Earth Juice, etc. It looks like it's a mid-range fertilizer at a good price.

Josh,
Thanks for simplifying things so a noob like me can understand.  ;D I've been using DynaGro Foliage Pro Protekt for the last 3 years for all my potted plants, they are doing great. What I need now is to improve the conditions for the in-ground trees. I visited a hydroponics store today and saw all kinds of products, very confusing. They carry products by General Organics, Earth Juice, Fox Farms, Tiger, Maxsea, plus a bunch of others I had never heard of. Some are in powder form, but most are liquid, they're a hydroponics store after all. Do you have any recommendations for the products I listed above? I'm also thinking of dumping a few bags of worm castings and mulch around the trees.

Josh-Los-Angeles

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Re: Dynagro vs Humic Acid/Azomite
« Reply #43 on: May 09, 2015, 09:55:20 PM »
thanks  :) if you looked at JF's topic, I also posted in there on this, but wanted to start a new topic to not take away from his original post..

I tried searching for BioFlora, but can't find any online store that sells it.. even the "Dry Crumbles".. JF uses that too, so is it better than Dynagro? I have been reading up on humic acid now and it seems that if it reaches drinking water, it's toxic to humans.. so maybe that's not a good idea then if it touches the skin?.. The azomite I found out is really good for the soil, with like 67 nutrients all together? (on Amazon's page at least).. how much do you apply? Since it will be my first application with Azomite, should I apply more to the hole of each tree and mix it in?

I looked throughout google and found out it's in a 50 pound bag for about $20-25? that's all I can find so far..

also find bioflora's website with this page that shows your different distributors/locations.. but those are all too far  :-\ for me to go to Temecula would be almost 2 hours drive.. dang, everyone else always gets the good stuff.. people in FL gets easy grow because of the weather (not hot and dry like here), and even people here in CA can get good fertilizer except me..   :( I have to do with things like Dr. Earth Organics 9 ($45-50 per 25 pounds on Amazon, which is really expensive) and things like Dynagro that shouldn't be used, that's what JF says..

http://www.bioflora.com/contact/

Here's a simple way to look at it:

-Use synthetic fertilizer for growing trees in pots
-Organic for trees in-ground

Dyna-Gro is great stuff, arguably the best one-part liquid fertilizer out there. If you're growing in pots, use Dyna-Gro if you can handle mixing up batches every time you water. Osmocote Plus or something similar if you can't hand water every time. The best is fertigation with Dyna-Gro or something similar -- this is how the commercial growers do it. Big batches of Peter's or Jack's injected with every watering.

Also, humic acids are not toxic and it's fine if it touches your skin, it's just like compost goo. It's a soil conditioner, no big deal. Same with Azomite. It helps the microbes in the soil and provides some micros over the long term. But neither are actual fertilizers and neither are readily available to the plants, they need microbes to work. If you just use azomite and humic acids and nothing else, your plants will die.

If you're growing in-ground, a popular fert that's granular with lots of humus, check out Gro-Power citrus and fruit. It's sold all over, so no special ordering needed. And it's made in SoCal for SoCal farmers for SoCal soil conditions. Looking at the BioFlora label, there's nothing magic in their mix, pretty generic and missing out on some of the better organic ingredients one would find in Dr. Earth or even General Organics, Earth Juice, etc. It looks like it's a mid-range fertilizer at a good price.

Josh,
Thanks for simplifying things so a noob like me can understand.  ;D I've been using DynaGro Foliage Pro Protekt for the last 3 years for all my potted plants, they are doing great. What I need now is to improve the conditions for the in-ground trees. I visited a hydroponics store today and saw all kinds of products, very confusing. They carry products by General Organics, Earth Juice, Fox Farms, Tiger, Maxsea, plus a bunch of others I had never heard of. Some are in powder form, but most are liquid, they're a hydroponics store after all. Do you have any recommendations for the products I listed above? I'm also thinking of dumping a few bags of worm castings and mulch around the trees.

Hey dude, glad to help as much as I can, I too am a noob compared to a lot of guys on here with acres of land, though I have done an embarrassing amount of research into fertilizers. There's tons of studies about commercial farming of pretty much every crop available, so reading what the pros do is really helpful. After all, they grow for a living and universities are set up to best understand how to help plants thrive. Fertilizer is kinda an obsession of mine...kinda weird to say outloud.

Anyway, hydro stores are really just weed growing stores, I bet only 10% of their customers do real hydro. And they cater to people with money to burn. Then again, I've spent a stupid amount of money there, and I order my Biothrive and Dyna-Gro Foliage, KLN and Pro-Tekt from my local store since they are willing to give good deals (the weed growing business is competitive). They'll order pretty much anything you want, especially good prices on perlite. But otherwise the fertilizers in there are for pot growers who are looking to push very specific types of growth. They work well for tomatoes, not necessarily right for trees. Most of what the hydro store sells is hype, though there are some legit products. Dyna-Gro probably makes most of their money from hydro stores at this point.

Anyway, as for the ferts, General Organics and Earth Juice are both top brand organics, Fox Farms is mid range, Max Sea is good stuff and cheap, though not an actual fertilizer. My issue with all those? Really expensive and a pain to use. I give my in ground trees a shot of General Organics Biothrive Grow once a month. I'd fertilize with every watering if I had the cash and the patience to mix it up in a watering can. They sell the stuff in 55 gallon drums but I'm not that crazy. General Organics BioRoot fertilizer is also great. I ran out of it recently, it's good when establishing any new tree. Of course, it's expensive (relatively).

You can get General Organics starter kit if you want to play around with their products -- seaweed, fish, humus, etc. It's a good way to see what you like. It also gets you hooked.

For in-ground, I've started to use Gro-Power's line of fertilizers. They were at Green Scene and I got a free sample of their new time release which looks pretty interesting. I already use their Citrus and Avo. Gro-Power is a kind of half-way organic company which is becoming really popular with growers. Nature's Source is another, which I'm thinking of switching to for liquid fertigation. The half-organic idea is you feed the soil organically while also providing synthetic NPK ferts to push the most growth. Gro-Power is packed with humus and designed for California soils. It's not OMRI rated but it is designed to help the soil microbes explode. Better yet, commercial growers use it, it's cheap and available at Crop Production Services and Ewings.

The issue with the full organic approach is you really don't know how much NPK and micros a tree is getting. Manure, the main ingredient, can have wildly different NPK ratios depending on what the cow/horse/chicken/bat/rabbit ate and how long the shit has been sitting around.

That said, mulch and compost are great. At the very least, they don't hurt. Worms, mycos, bacteria, it's all good for in ground trees. And people have been growing trees organically with animal guano forever. And some people are fine with just using compost, but I think using a known fert like Gro-Power or Osmocote or whatever is the way to go. At least, that's what the pro growers do. I've heard that Durling's, commercial grower of many of the best citrus and avos, uses fert injection for all their trees to give some NPK and micros with every watering.

My ideal fertilizer program for in ground fruit trees? Gro-Power half strength along with fertilizer injecting Nature's Source during the growth phase and a bloom fert in the bloom phase. Along with a second injector for potassium silicate (Pro-Tekt) and another injector for PH. But now we're talking serious money.

Then again, it's an evolving hobby with no right answers :)

Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions.

 

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