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Hmm that's pretty handy. One of the harder prune spots is when a limb is trifurcated, and one only wants to cut the middle branch out of the "fork." That would fit right in. Also, root pruning destroys blades (due to sand / dirt abrasive action). Wonder if this would hold up?
Anyone recognize the mango tree in my neighbor's yard? I want to plant one, but he doesn't know the variety, since it was there when he bought the house, so I thought that maybe the experts here could recognize it based on the unique shape of its canopy.
Rather than everyone guessing, i think it would be very easy to find out why members left just simply by asking them, should anyone really have enough interest in finding out real reasons? PM or email could even be sent as a survey which would be very easy for them to answer.
May be Raul still has. I got some seven month old seeds from Raul and all of them sprouted.
Did you use GA3 to germinate the seeds?
Threw in fridge for six weeks then in spagnum moss
May be Raul still has. I got some seven month old seeds from Raul and all of them sprouted.
I am beginning to thinks some cherimoya may be graft compatible with pond apple, at least better than atemoya.
I did a thorough inspection of the trees and in addition to the Licia it appears boothe and white also appear to be growing. Inca red did not take.
I was reading an IFAS paper on Atemoya in Florida http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg332. The authors point out noted
"Atemoya is not graft compatible with pond apple and therefore the use of an interstock is required"
I am trying Atemoya on pond apple and for now it looks like I have a couple of takes but I know they can still fail.
My question is, do any of you know what interstock works?
The authors used "49-11" which they described as " a 'Gefner' atemoya x A. reticulata hybrid"
Does anyone have scions of this hybrid? or any tested interstock?
I intend to continue trying different atemoya on pond apple but I am open to try using this two step approach to get there.
I know there is a chart on the forum of graft compatibility and will be searching for it all afternoon
By the way, all is not lost. After last years limited success, I started some cherimoya for root stock and some of my graft this year on 1 year old seedlings of cherimoya.
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Found the table
http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=16673.0
As Har said, that is what they do in nature, fruits falling down in September, then the seeds stay in ground through the warm winter,to sprout with the first rains in June of next year, Dr. Gustavo Valladares author of the book "ilamas en tierra caliente del balsas" said they opened some ilama seeds right away and to his surprise most didn't have embrios, he thinks it continues developing after fruit falls and that is the reason why they take so long to germinate...
WGPhilJust curious....what did you graft your Ilama scions onto? My grafts from spring of the Genova Red and Frank's Anona Rosada confinue to have a tough time when I grafted them onto my un-named Ilama "Twiggy". They continue to struggle but are still alive. My hope is that the new summer grafts I made directly onto Cherimoya stock will fair better.
I just grafted this one from scions that Frank so graciously provided. I was looking at it last night and it shows signs of beginning to push. I'm getting excited. What is your opinion about it's flavor ?
William
Anona Rosada graft slowly growing new (red leaves) with Twiggy leaves in background.
Ilama will not work (grafts will fail or struggle and fail) when grafted to itself.
Some pond apple works for ilama and some cherimoya (I have seen it fail on certain cherimoya). When on Sugar Apple it usually flourishes, has trouble setting fruit/sets mo fruit and then seems to die out of nowhere.