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1
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Asimina triloba experience in Colorado
« on: October 17, 2014, 02:41:27 AM »
In 1999 (15 years ago) I planted 2 Asimina triloba (pawpaw) seedlings, each 1 year old, of unknown but supposedly "good" parentage.

One didn't make it through the first winter, but the other slowly grew over the years. 

Pawpaw are supposedly zone-5 hardy, but prefer acidic soil, low wind, and lots of water.  My area of Colorado is zone 5 (-25F max-- at least in the past 20 years) of high-altitude (5200 feet above sea level) desert-- 14" moisture per year on average, with extremely alkaline (pH 8.2-8.4) heavy clay "soil".  Even worse, we often have 6-8 weeks of warm non-freezing weather in the spring, followed by a hard freeze before the warm season really begins.  Only 5 of the approximately 30 grafted and seedling trees I've planted to date survived their first winter.  But my remaining original seedling tree has slowly grown each year and has never been fooled by the late frosts-- or the early frosts-- yet.

In 2009 (10 years old) it bloomed for the first time; I tried self-pollination but nothing set.

For the next 5 years (2010-2014) I drove to one or both of the other 2 blooming-size pawpaw trees in the state of Colorado (that I'm aware of) trying to cross-pollinate my tree.  The other trees are 30 and 50 miles away from me, so a single act of cross-pollination takes 2-3 hours.   No fruit set at all, until this spring.

This spring about 80% of the 70 or so flowers I hand-pollinated started setting fruit, whether the pollen was from my tree or another.  Ultimately though, all the self-pollinated fruit clusters dropped off at about 1" long (per fruit).  3 cross-pollinated clusters held on and got larger-- 2 of 1 lobe / fruit, 1 of 2 lobes / fruits. 

A visiting dog removed 1 of the fruits midway through the summer (along with the whole 4'x5' branch it was on).  15 years after planting it, and with 5 years of driving for hours each spring trying to cross-pollinate it, I wanted to taste the fruit.

Here are 2 of the 3 remaining fruit in mid-August:


I jealously guarded the remaining fruit from squirrels, who were luckily much more interested in the adjacent peach tree.  It started getting cold here about a month ago; we could have had a frost or hard freeze many times by now, but the pawpaw fruit weren't showing any signs of ripeness.

4 days ago after several near-frosts and one very slight frost, I noticed that a squirrel had taken a bite out of one of the still-firm and fully green fruit.  Fearing it would rot or get attacked again, I picked it. 

I've been waiting 15 years to try this fruit, and I had to pick my first one before it wanted to come off the tree.



After sitting on the counter for 3 days, it started giving off a wonderful aroma of jackfruit and Granny Smith apples, but was still firm.

This evening it had the same fragrance, just more intense, and the undamaged fruit was soft, so I cut it open:



My first chance to try the fruit from a tenacious but otherwise unknown seedling (and my first pawpaw fruit ever):

Seed to flesh ratio: Poor; about 40% seed, 60% flesh.  I got about 1/3 cup of flesh out of the fruit.

Texture: 90% ripe banana, 10% pear / ripe cherimoya.  Very pleasant in my opinion.

Flavor: I'm horrible at describing flavor, but I'd say it was 90% really good cherimoya (though not quite as sweet), 10% bubble gum.  No noticeable different aftertaste.  Very, very tasty in my opinion.  Almost worth waiting 15 years for, and certainly worth the drive to cross-pollinate next year if necessary.  Hopefully next year I can get more than 3 fruit!

I still have 1 fruit hanging on the tree and the damaged fruit which will likely be eaten tomorrow-- it just isn't quite as soft as the one I ate tonight.

There's nothing quite like trying a new fruit for the first time; pawpaw has been on my list for a long time and it looks like I got lucky with a good-tasting seedling; I'd rather have a poor seed-to-flesh ratio than a poorly-flavored fruit with no seeds.  I look forward to tasting the 7 other named varieties I've got growing!

   Kevin

 

2
When I was 3, I started planting seeds from tropical fruit because I wanted to see what the plants looked like. I had no local examples in Colorado of things like citrus and avocado trees.  Any time I saw a new fruit available in the grocery store, I wanted to get one to see what it tasted like-- and what the plant looked like.  Over time my obsession changed to growing things that were simply not available in any store in my area-- at least not in decent condition.

My obsession has continued for several decades and I recently decided to try a Mangosteen (Garcinia mangostana). It seemed like a particularly fun, if idiotic challenge to try and grow here.  They're slow, picky and notoriously challenging to grow, at least here in the continental US.

On top of that, for it to work in my available climate-controlled conditions, I would have to keep the plant in a pot its entire life and at most 5 feet tall.  I'm still a long way from fruit, but I'm a little surprised with how well it seems to be going so far.

At the end of March 2012 (2+ years ago) I received 2 Mangosteen and 2 Achachairu plants from Montoso Gardens in Puerto Rico, in quart sleeves.  I was amazed with the quality of the plants and packing-- and I got lucky that it didn't suddenly turn cold here while they were in transit.

After a week to ensure they weren't going into shock from shipping, I mostly bare-rooted the plants (there weren't many roots except the tap root) and transplanted them into a mix of 50% pine bark fines and 50% Turface MVP in 1-gallon pots.  For the entire time I've had them, they've been getting watered as-needed (typically every 2-3 days) with filtered tap water (fluoride and chlorine removed) with 2.25ml of DynaGro Grow per gallon of water, adjusted to pH 5.6-5.8 with phosphoric acid.

To run a side-by-side test to see if fabric pots or a taller plastic pot would work better, I put one mangosteen and achachairu in each type of pot.  Here are three of the plants April 3, 2012 after transplanting.  The largest Achachairu I received is on the left, I still have the mangosteen (I'll call it #1) in the middle, the mangosteen on the right (I'll call it #2) was sent to Florida almost a year ago-- I needed more room.



To start, I had them under 1800W of HID lights (1 1000W metal halide, 2 400W CMH [ceramic metal halide]).  They did OK, though the leaves showed some signs of stress (like most plants under HID lights); here they are June 10, 2012 (2 months after repotting, after their first growth flush):



Shortly thereafter I got another 2-gallon mangosteen seedling from Ethan in California (I'll call it #3), shown here on the left before repotting, May 10 2012:

This too promptly was bare-rooted and put into a 1-gallon fabric pot with gritty mix.  I decided to try it outdoors over the summer, and while it didn't die, it clearly wasn't nearly as happy and is just now (18 months later) starting to fully recover from the lack of humidity, large temperature swings and frequent wind.  I'm fairly certain mangosteen aren't happy outdoors here even during the summer.

I planted a couple G. xanthochymus and G. hombroniana seeds in the pots July 2012, and in October 2012 I started approach-grafting these seedlings on as extra rootstocks for the mangosteens.  In November 2012 I switched the lights to 4x 450W Black Dog LED lights and 2X 400W CMH bulbs; by January 2013 I had ditched the CMH bulbs and was running only 6X 450W Black Dog LED lights.

The mangosteen seemed happy with the changes- here they are May 19, 2013:

Mangosteen #2 is on the left, #1 in the middle, and #3 on the right (just starting to recover from 3 months of exposure to a Colorado summer after 9 months in the plant room again). 

Here's a close-up of #1's first pair of approach grafts, xanthochymus on the left and hombroniana on the right:


And here's #1 in its normal spot in my plant room, also 5/19/2013:


I'd read that mangosteen liked shade when small, so I put the plants under others and let them grow up through the canopy of the other plants to get more light-- it seems to have worked rather well.

Here's #1 on July 12, 2013 in it's normal spot in the plant room, sending out its first side-branches (bottom of the picture):


This photo from 1 month later (August 3, 2013) shows how fast it has started growing-- #1 is on the left, #2 in the middle, #3 on the right:


Granted it is a sample size of only 1, but #1 in the fabric pot seems to be much happier after 16 months in a fabric pot than #2 in the plastic pot, despite always having identical growing conditions.  (I can show the same with Garcinia sp. achachairu, Garcinia intermedia, Luc's Mexican Garcinia and many other plants-- the root-pruning fabric pots seem to grow much happier, healthier, more compact plants in my conditions.)

Mangosteen #2 got shipped to Florida at this point, and #1 got repotted into a 3-gallon fabric pot.  I added more G. xanthochymus and G. hombroniana nursing rootstocks to both #1 and #3 at this time as well.

Here's #1 on December 17, 2013 in its normal position in the plant room:


#3 got transplanted into a 3 gallon fabric pot around this time as it finally sent out its first branches.

Here's #1 after some more multiple-rootstock grafting work on January 20, 2014:


And here's #1 again April 26, 2014, after I've had it for 2 years:

(there is some extra G. xanthochymus and G. hombroniana foliage at the bottom-- future extra rootstocks).

Just for fun, here's a picture comparing the mangosteen to the achachairu from the first picture in my post, 2 years later:

(That's a Eugenia reinwardtiana on the left; it had to come out of the plant room to let the mangosteen and achachairu out.)

So far my largest mangosteen (#1) seems happy still in a 3-gallon pot; my general rule of thumb is to never give a plant a larger pot unless it is required-- defined as needing water more often than I'm willing / able to provide it.  Until this plant dries out more than every 2 days, it will stay in this 3-gallon fabric pot.

Environmental conditions for #1 have been the same (except for the switch to LED light in November 2012) for the entire time I've had it: 70-72 degrees minimum at night, 88 degrees during the day, 70% minimum humidity, 100% humidity every night (condensation forms on the ceiling and walls of my plant room, but not on the plants).  The photoperiod is 14-18 hours per day, aside from a few weeks a year I drop it to 11.5 hours (this is done to trigger my orchids to bloom, not for the mangosteen).

So far the mangosteens have been easier to grow and faster-growing than I expected; hopefully I'll be able to keep it alive long enough to get it to bloom-- I'm hoping that dwarfing it in a fabric pot, giving it extra rootstocks, and providing it with ideal environmental conditions may prod it into blooming young, but I'm sure I still have several years to wait.

   Kevin

3
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Video tour of my basement plant room
« on: January 17, 2014, 12:50:57 PM »
After prodding from many of you, I've finally attempted a video tour of my plant growing room.

I'm not very good at taking videos to begin with, and trying to take one while navigating the 18-inch wide aisles of my 12 by 15 foot plant room, with 30-pound LED lights moving back and forth at my head height while trying to hold a pair of tinted glasses over the camera lens makes it even trickier.  Couple all that with poor video editing skills and this clearly isn't a professional video.

It does show just how much the plants like the right LED lights though!  If you change the settings to HD video it does look a bit better that way.

CoPlantNut's Black Dog LED-lit ultra-tropical setup

I didn't bother to label most of the ~400 different kinds of plants.  This was taken with some of the movable carts holding the plants wheeled off to the side to create a Z-shaped aisle down the middle; normally all the carts are pushed together under the lights.  I didn't even bother to hose off the floor before taking this, so it is a bit messier in there than normal.

   Kevin


4
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Colorado-grown Garcinia sp.
« on: July 24, 2013, 04:25:06 AM »
I have too many plants.  I got a number of Garcinia seedlings last year trying to see if I could grow any of them, and so far they're all liking my environment a little too well- I have to thin them out.

If you're in Colorado I offer free pick-up or next-day shipping, otherwise these plants will have to be shipped UPS or USPS at the buyer's expense.  I guarantee good packaging (included in plant price) but cannot offer a replacement plant if these are destroyed in shipping; these are (mostly) one-of-a-kind plants for me.   I've shipped many, many plants without any mishaps to date but I've also received a very-well-packaged box that was run over by a USPS truck and obliterated- I can't help that sort of thing.   Being the middle of summer with excessive heat possible in shipping, I would need to watch the weather forecast and work with you to plan a shipment to avoid excessive heat. The farther you are from Colorado the less I trust the USPS to get the package there on time and in one piece, based on multiple past experiences.

All shipping would be done with the existing fabric container with gritty mix; all of these plants are well-rooted and in need of a larger pot.  I deliberately trimmed the tap root to get a more fibrous root system, which I believe would make them better candidates for long-term container growing, but I don't know if or how that would affect the plants if planted in-ground.

Disclosure #1: these plants have not seen the real sun or outdoor conditions in over a year.  They are healthy and growing well but may require additional acclimatization to your environment, unless you're growing under LED lights in an 80%+ humidity, 70 degree min. 88 degree max. environment.

Full disclosure #2:  Because they were grown in a very plant-dense environment with inadequate artificial wind, their trunks are not fully stiff enough to hold themselves up when the foliage gets wet, as it is in all the photos below.  A slight pugging or staking would fix that in a couple months-- at least it has for other Garcinias I've tried.  I need to thin them out to fully fix this issue on my end.

Full disclosure #3:  I found a minor scale infestation on 10 (of about 400) plants in my grow room about a month ago.  No scale was found on any Garcinia, and they've since been sprayed along with all my plants with 3 applications of Neem oil 1 week apart just to be sure the scale is dead and isn't spreading.  I'm pretty sure they don't have scale or any other insects / pests, but there are never any guarantees when mail-ordering plants.

Garcinia livingstonei: $15 (plus shipping) 1 gallon pot, 10" tall (particularly floppy):


Garcinia magnifolia: Sold $30 (plus shipping) 1 gallon pot, 17" tall (not floppy):


Garcinia madrono: $30 (plus shipping) 1 gallon pot, 28" tall (only slightly floppy):


Garcinia acuminata: $20 (plus shipping) 1 gallon pot, 22" tall (floppy)


Garcinia sp. 'achachairu': $30 (plus shipping) 1 gallon pot, 24" tall, only the top wants to be floppy:

This plant also has a ~5" tall G. intermedia seedling planted right next to the trunk; I meant to graft it on as an additional rootstock but never got around to it.  I mention this if you're interested in trying your hand at grafting-- in the picture below on the left is the plant offered for sale, on the right is a G. 'achachairu' of the same age (given a larger pot only 2 weeks ago) with an extra G. intermedia rootstock for the past 6 months:


Also up for sale: at least 8  5" square plastic pots with 2 each of 1-year-old G. xanthochymus and G. hombroniana seedlings, $5 each plus shipping (likely around $11 for one, relatively cheaper for more), none are floppy at all.  I meant to plant G. mangostana seeds in each pot and add the xanthochymus and hombroniana seedlings as extra rootstocks, but had complete failures with all my mangosteen seeds.  I suppose you could separate the plants carefully (submerging in a bucket of water works well) or try your own grafting experiments.  The G. xanthochymus and G. hombroniana rootstocks I've added to my 3 mangosteen plants seem to be taking and speeding growth so far (8 months).  Anyhow, a typical pot (the G. hombroniana are shorter):

5
Tropical Fruit Buy, Sell & Trade / Dwarf everbearing mulberry- All gone!
« on: October 11, 2012, 07:10:05 PM »
Edit again: These plants are all spoken for- thanks!

I have 3 small but well-rooted cuttings of dwarf everbearing mulberry that I can't seem to get rid of locally.  They are 9" tall, currently in 5" pots, and one even has a couple fruit on it (they are precocious!).

They are free for local pick-up (in Colorado) or I can partially bare-root them and cram them into one of the USPS $5.35 flat rate boxes for shipping anywhere in the continental USA if you pay for shipping ($5.35).  I'd also be happy to ship them in their pot for just the cost of shipping, but that will be more than $5.35.

I should point out that if you have a dwarf everbearing mulberry anywhere near you, it isn't worth paying $5.35 for one of mine as they are very easy to root from cuttings...  But I hate throwing them out and don't want to overwinter them so I figured I'd offer them here.

   Kevin

Edit:
  I can easily fit the whole seedling and pot in a $11.35 flat-rate box, so that would be the maximum shipping fee if you wanted the plant shipped pot-and-all.  If interested I can also include a free miracle fruit seedling with every mulberry and/or as many jackfruit seeds / seedlings as can fit in the box.


6
I can't seem to locate a source for 'Ziman Pink' jackfruit despite my best attempts at internet searching.  From the scant information I have found it sounds like a good variety for me to try and grow, if I'm going to be crazy enough to try and grow jackfruit at all.

Does anyone know of a source for 'Ziman Pink' grafted plants or scion/cutting material?

   Kevin

7
Recipes / Frozen Custard Recipe
« on: August 28, 2012, 05:21:32 PM »
I like making ice cream with fresh fruit in season, but I've been dissatisfied with how long the ice cream lasts in the freezer.  Often after only a month or two it starts to become grainy as the ice crystals grow.

A few years ago I found this recipe for making blackberry frozen custard, and it has never gone bad in my freezer yet.  Even after a year in my freezer it is still creamy and delicious, so it has become my favorite way of preserving my blackberry harvest for the rest of the year.

I've made it with mangoes and now jackfruit with great results, with only a slight modification:

  • Heat 1 cup sugar with 1.5 cups half-and-half on the stove in a large (4 quart) pot on low heat until the sugar dissolves.
  • Beat 5 egg yolks on high in a electric mixer and slowly pour in some of the warm half-and-half mixture with the beater running on high to temper the egg yolks- beware it will get frothy and expand in volume. 
  • Pour the tempered egg yolks back in with the rest of the half-and-half and heat on medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture starts to boil.  You'll know this is happening when it suddenly gets to be 4 times the volume in the pot- hence the need for a big pot. 
  • Take off the heat immediately and keep stirring for a minute or two, allow to cool for about 10 more minutes. 
  • Meanwhile, put 1.5 cups heavy cream in a blender with 4 cups cleaned jackfruit or mango, blend until smooth. 
  • Strain the warm-but-not-hot custard mixture through a sieve to get rid of any clumps, then mix in the fruit and cream mixture.
  • Put in the fridge for several hours to chill, then in to the ice cream maker.

When making it with jackfruit, the mixture sets up to almost a jello-like consistency in the fridge before going into the ice cream maker, but still works great when frozen (it kicks ass at that stage too, as plain, non-frozen jackfruit custard!).

8
Very interesting article on doing a full genetic sequence of multiple tissues from an individual tree and supposed clones:

http://www.nature.com/news/tree-s-leaves-genetically-different-from-its-roots-1.11156

This study was done with cottonwood trees (which grow as weeds around here and send up suckers in my lawn), but if cottonwood trees can vary that much from branch to branch, it makes you wonder if the grafted fruit trees are really genetically identical.   Without full genome sequences from multiple places across the tree, I guess you could never be sure!

   Kevin

9
After all the talk on this forum about what a great container mango 'Pickering' is, I broke down and got one.  We'll see if I can find space for it this winter (along with half my other plants).  Pine Island Nursery sent me a wonderful 3-gallon 'Pickering', in the midst of an impressive new growth flush:



It looked much better right as it came out of the box, but all the new growth had been expanding in the dark, humid conditions of the box for 5 days in shipping and started wilting immediately upon exposure to my climate.  I want to try to grow this outside for the summer rather than in the "cushy" humid conditions in my basement, but I still need to keep it as dwarf as possible; I have too many plants already and I need to keep things small to accommodate all of my plant hobby.  So I'm planning on "pugging" the plant; should I do it just above the middle 60-degree 2-way branch or just below?  I want to keep the plant as wind-resistant as possible.  I want it to be as short and well-branched as possible; this survives much better in the wind.  I also have a strict 5'9" height limit in my basement for the winter, or the plant will be condemned to only the light from a similar-height east or west facing window in my house.  I'm planning on heavy tip-pruning to encourage bushy growth as I do with most of my plants.  The new growth has all succumbed to the reality of a Colorado summer since the picture was taken, which I expected from experience.  I've grown many mangos from seed here before, but never to blooming size. 

I also got a 'Kari' carambola from PIN; it was more damaged in shipping from Florida and lost all but 3 leaves before I got it out of the box:



I'm completely fine with that; just like the mango I expected it to lose all of it's humidity-expecting Florida-grown leaves once it got here; if it does it in shipping it actually starts the process of regrowth faster.  I have the same issue with most plants I move in and out of my house every year; they lose all of their "indoor" leaves and produce new outside-adapted leaves.  My 'Sri Kembangan' carambola is starting a bloom flush for the 6th time since I've had it:



I believe it must be self-incompatible for pollination (http://tropicalfruitforum.com/index.php?topic=599.0); it is a short-styled type and as such is apparently inherently reliant on another long-styled carambola for pollination.  'Kari' is apparently a long-styled type (I haven't seen it in person- yet) and as such apparently self-compatible as well as capable of pollinating the 'Sri Kembangan'.  I plan on cross-grafting the two varieties I have now so that the scions will bloom at the same time as the rootstock.  When I can eventually do a side-by-side comparison of the varieties in my conditions, I'll decide which plant I want to keep.  Self-compatibility for pollination is a big plus for me; it makes it a lot easier if you are having to hand-pollinate with a brush in the middle of winter.  'Sri Kembangan' has already been frustrating me for a long time...

I've moved most of my tropical plants to their "permanent" outdoor locations for the summer; during the spring I haul them in and out daily to adapt them to the outdoor conditions but keep them from getting too cold at night. 

This picture captures most of the tropical fruit plants I keep outdoors for the summer:



From left to right (in pots) there is:

Jaboticaba, Australian Beach Cherry (Eugenia reinwardtiana), behind that an Acerola / Barbados Cherry (not easy to see, but 5' tall), a dwarf guava and behind it a strawberry guava, another E. reinwardtiana, a small bay leaf in the orange pot, a 2-year old Naranjilla in a 10-gallon pot (It better ripen fruit this year!), Babaco papaya and a Steevia in the orange pot, behind them the other 2-year-old Naranjilla; a 'Eustis' limequat and a 'Changshou' kumquat, behind them a 'Sri Kembangan' carambola;  another dwarf guava, a Physalis peruviana that was recently decapitated in the wind and hiding behind it a mangosteen (impossible to see in this pic), a orange-flowering Lantana (not a fruit), behind it my pitomba; a Chilean guava (Ugni monlinae), dwarf everberring mulberry, another Chilean guava, Naga Jolokia pepper (green pot- I use it for raccoon and squirrel repellant as well as salsa), a 2-year-old Habanero pepper and more Lantanas.  There's an Achachairu in the back somewhere too, and blackberries all along the fence that aren't in pots.  That's even a bald cyprus tree on the right half of the picture (not in a pot- 30' tall) to make the plants feel more like they are in Florida and give them light afternoon shade and some hail protection.

The plants are lined up along my fence for wind protection.  We seem to have 45-mph winds weekly, with 60+mph winds about once a month, and 80-100 mph winds once or twice a summer, four or more times a year.  The fence and large in-ground trees not visible in this picture help provide a bit of a wind break.

My miracle fruit plants stay in my basement for the summer, along with most of the seedlings and extra-tender plants:

View from one corner:


Assorted Garcinia and pulasan from Ethan, plus a sapodilla, plumerias, orchids, amorphophallus and more: 


Mangosteen (front) and Achachairu from Ethan, 1 week post-bare-rooting-transplant and just before they were moved back outside:


Madrono from Ethan and 2 Achachairu from Montoso:


One of my new hybrid jaboticaba seedlings from Adam:


Achachairu #3 and #4 (of 6):


Mangosteen #2 and #3 (both from Montoso):
 

There are more pictures available at:
http://s1188.photobucket.com/albums/z412/ncomf/June%202012/

  Kevin

10
I have a healthy 2.5-3-year-old 'Sri Kembangan' carambola in bloom for the past 3 weeks.  Despite my best efforts at pollinating it manually, I have zero fruit set.  I haven't tried dressing up in a yellow and black striped outfit and making a buzzing noise (yet), but I have tried everything else I can think of to pollinate it.

I have fruited smaller, younger carambola trees here before in much less-ideal conditions; why can't I get this "zucchini of the tropical fruits" (as Oscar called it) to set some fruit for me?  This is the 5th bloom flush it has had since I've had it, but I can't seem to get any fruit.  My previous "successes" with carambola were all with seedlings that met unfortunate ends in Colorado hailstorms (always just before the fruit ripened...) but I didn't have to do anything special to pollinate them.

I've had this grafted 'Sri Kembangan' for almost 2 years and despite it growing and blooming happily and being much larger than my previous fruiting carambolas, I get no fruit.  I'm manually pollinating with a small paintbrush, the plant is enjoying 15 hours of light and 65-90 degrees every day, leaves are a nice medium-dark green and aren't chlorotic, growing nicely, but every flower falls off within 48 hours of opening.

Am I missing something?  Being overly hopeful that I can get it to set fruit when 4 feet tall and wide in a 5-gallon pot with a 3/4" thick trunk?  Or is 'Sri Kembangan' simply not self-compatible?  Unfortunately, my only other carambola (and the only one I know of within 500 miles) is also a grafted 'Sri Kembangan', not blooming at the moment, but growing happily.


   Kevin

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