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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Grafting pineapple guava
« on: February 06, 2021, 02:22:24 AM »
Anyone?
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52
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: WTB Apple scions for FL panhandle
« on: January 29, 2021, 12:00:36 PM »Definitely would take some cuttings of your Anna and ein shemer apples. Any other varieties? Looking for Joy and golden dorsett and basically any that might do well here. However I have only 4-6 branches I could try grafting onto. Would like to put a different type on each branch if possible. Assuming good success hopefully...but if some don't take it is what it is.
Saw you mentioned plums. What varieties do you got going on there?
If we could I'd like to try getting scions while both my plants are still dormant and the scions too. Getting kinda warm here already and some types of fruits are starting to swell buds already too. If not no worries there's always next year/time or trying bud grafting in summer.
Contact the user "spaugh". He's got Golden Dorsett.
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Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: WTB: Apple scion wood
« on: January 26, 2021, 01:27:47 PM »
Now that you mention it, that seems to be the case for me too. Can you send me your email address in a PM so that we speed up the communication?
54
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Grafting pineapple guava
« on: January 26, 2021, 05:55:18 AM »
I got some Albert's Pride and Albert's supreme scion wood from Fruitwood Nursery, and they are extremely thin. Can I even use this for grafting and what method would be suitable? I plan on doing side veneer but I'm not sure that these are thick enough for that.
55
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: WTB: Apple scion wood
« on: January 22, 2021, 05:18:16 AM »
Let me bump this topic. Shiro hasn't logged in since he wrote his message, and I'm sure people have apples to sell. 
Other than Gold Rush and Rubaiyat, I'm also interested in:
- Cox Orange Pippin
- King David
- Sweet 16
- Wickson
- Golden Russet
- Etter 7/9
- Lady Williams
- Grenadine
- Pink Parfait
Other than Gold Rush and Rubaiyat, I'm also interested in:
- Cox Orange Pippin
- King David
- Sweet 16
- Wickson
- Golden Russet
- Etter 7/9
- Lady Williams
- Grenadine
- Pink Parfait
56
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: WTB: Button Mangosteen (Garcinia prainiana)
« on: January 18, 2021, 11:57:44 PM »
You can't delete it afaik, but it doesn't matter, just create a new topic in the tropical section.
57
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: WTB: Button Mangosteen (Garcinia prainiana)
« on: January 18, 2021, 02:58:56 AM »
This is a wrong section of the forum for that question. You should post it in the Tropical Buy & Sell section, not Temperate.
58
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / WTB: Apple scion wood
« on: January 16, 2021, 08:11:28 AM »
I'm looking to buy scions of Gold Rush and Rubaiyat. Any other good varieties suited for Central and Northern California will do too. I live in southeastern Europe, in a Mediterranean climate very similar to said parts of California.
59
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: White Sapote relative ripening times per cultivar
« on: January 05, 2021, 03:50:16 AM »Chestnut variety is in sync with McDill here in Italy.
Sometime they both also flower in December but it's too cold here so they never produce.
Are there any issues in your area with the cold? Do you protect trees in any way?
60
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: persimmon collectors?
« on: December 17, 2020, 01:36:00 AM »
@RollingInTheWeeds
The "votka" method is what I recently tested. Info that I found online said to keep persimmons together with alcohol for 72 hours. Unfortunately, this didn't remove the astringency completely for me. It went down noticeably, but it was still there. So I let them sit more until all of the astringency went away, which took about 8 days I think. But I did replace the alcohol 2 times in the process because I noticed that it didn't smell like alcohol after a while so I assumed it had evaporated.
The persimmons will stay firm after this method, so this is by no means a way to quickly ripen them, just to remove the tannins.
I've had really bad experience with freezing. It will turn the persimmons wrinkly and mushy without ripening them properly and some astringency will still be there. I've heard in a youtube video recently that you're supposed to freeze them twice but I don't feel like trying that out. I actually like the jelly-like texture of ripe persimmons, but these frozen ones were somehow gritty and not much like properly ripened ones.
So for me, the vodka method is the method currently. You can still let the persimmons ripen completely even after you treat them with this method, but it will just give you the option to eat them hard as well, if you feel like it.
The "votka" method is what I recently tested. Info that I found online said to keep persimmons together with alcohol for 72 hours. Unfortunately, this didn't remove the astringency completely for me. It went down noticeably, but it was still there. So I let them sit more until all of the astringency went away, which took about 8 days I think. But I did replace the alcohol 2 times in the process because I noticed that it didn't smell like alcohol after a while so I assumed it had evaporated.
The persimmons will stay firm after this method, so this is by no means a way to quickly ripen them, just to remove the tannins.
I've had really bad experience with freezing. It will turn the persimmons wrinkly and mushy without ripening them properly and some astringency will still be there. I've heard in a youtube video recently that you're supposed to freeze them twice but I don't feel like trying that out. I actually like the jelly-like texture of ripe persimmons, but these frozen ones were somehow gritty and not much like properly ripened ones.
So for me, the vodka method is the method currently. You can still let the persimmons ripen completely even after you treat them with this method, but it will just give you the option to eat them hard as well, if you feel like it.
61
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: persimmon collectors?
« on: December 15, 2020, 05:25:53 PM »I will be definitely baying a none astringent one since I like to eat persimmons when not in mush stage, havent stopped my eyes on a variety yet, i'm also very interested in the ones with chocolate tones in the flavor ....
With astringent ones, you can put them in a plastic container together with a shot glass half full of vodka and close the lid. Every 2 to 3 days check if the alcohol level in the glass has subsided (by smelling it), and replace it with a new swig of vodka. After about 8 to 10 days, the astringency will be gone and you'll be able to eat the astringent persimmons like they were non-astringent.
62
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: WTB: Jujube scion wood
« on: November 21, 2020, 01:26:36 AM »
Let me bump this thread.
I've managed to order most of the varieties that I wanted, and now I'm missing:
Chico
Winter Delight
Does anyone have any of these varieties for sale? I cannot buy from nurseries as they either don't ship outside of the US or require an expensive phyto certificate. It has to be individuals.
I've managed to order most of the varieties that I wanted, and now I'm missing:
Chico
Winter Delight
Does anyone have any of these varieties for sale? I cannot buy from nurseries as they either don't ship outside of the US or require an expensive phyto certificate. It has to be individuals.
63
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Persimmon pot culture
« on: November 12, 2020, 06:59:19 AM »thanks for the info , I will try to find them a somewhat sheltered spot ,to plant in the ground.
I have one spot which gets good ammount of sun, but has no cold wind protection, do u think if I tye the trees somehow in autumn and place over them white drums to just stop the cold wind will help. Obviously this will be not double in a few years ahead when they get bigger....
I can't really tell you more as I have never done it myself. Here's how this guy did it (you won't understand what he's saying, but you can see what he's doing): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4nDADM0FaQ
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Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Persimmon pot culture
« on: November 12, 2020, 06:30:24 AM »I am zome 7 here, do not know a or b thought, dont remember by the map I had looked over. I haven't seen many persimmon trees in my region, thought I've seen big fig trees/ bushes and have one pomegranate that is growing in the ground with passive protection in winter, which I will not protect this winter. I know this maybe has nothing to do with persimmons , but if I'm not wrong these three species seem to grow best in the same climate/zone. Now people here just seem to not plant such trees ,so this may be the reason that I do not see them very often,and not the climate itself.
By the way I assume mine are kaki since are grafted , don't know the varieties of both the rootstocks and scions .
For Europe, you can't find a map, as far as I know, where the zones are broken down to A's and B's, so you have to calculate that yourself. Bear in mind that US hardiness zones system is only partially applicable to Europe, especially in the higher zones, because for example you have places in Florida listed as zone 8 which will have daily high temperatures of +20C even in January. I would say that most Asian persimmons are borderline in your climate. To be safe, you should plant them in sheltered spots and give them some protection for the first few years. Also, if you can get some hybrids like "Nikita's Gift", that would be a good option as they would have no problems in your climate.
Persimmon trees do well in zones 6 and 7. They are hardy to 10 degrees
10F is 7b to 8a. Zone 6 starts at -10F to -5F.
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Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: Persimmon pot culture
« on: November 11, 2020, 04:21:30 AM »Persimmon isn't cold sensitive. You should plant it in the ground if you can. The internet says good to zone 4 or 5.
That may be so for the American persimmon Diospyros Virginiana. Asian persimmons Diospyros Kaki are zone 7 trees, or 6b with some varieties.
66
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Cold tolerance of cherimoyas
« on: November 01, 2020, 04:15:55 AM »
I live in what would be considered zone 9a/9b, but unlike Bay Area and northern California, below-freezing temperatures here can last more than just a few hours. Also, north winds are a major problem for many fruit trees which are a lot hardier than cherimoya.
I had 3 seedlings planted in the ground, which were grown from store-bought fruits in Vienna (most likely imported from Spain). I hadn't protected them in any way and they were fried to the ground. Completely dead, including the roots. I got really disappointed then because I had hoped that cherimoyas would be more cold tolerant than that. This year, I planted a new one (from the same batch of seeds), closer to the house, and I plan on protecting it while it's small. But this is going to be my last ditch effort to grow cherimoyas in my climate before I finally give up on them.
I had 3 seedlings planted in the ground, which were grown from store-bought fruits in Vienna (most likely imported from Spain). I hadn't protected them in any way and they were fried to the ground. Completely dead, including the roots. I got really disappointed then because I had hoped that cherimoyas would be more cold tolerant than that. This year, I planted a new one (from the same batch of seeds), closer to the house, and I plan on protecting it while it's small. But this is going to be my last ditch effort to grow cherimoyas in my climate before I finally give up on them.
67
Temperate Fruit Discussion / Re: persimmon collectors?
« on: October 31, 2020, 03:01:18 PM »
I don't have a collection yet, but I'm trying to build one. If someone has scionwood for sale and can sell to Europe, I'd be interested. 
68
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: WTB: Jujube scion wood
« on: September 27, 2020, 05:10:23 PM »
Thank you. In my experience, nurseries that don't list cuttings, usually won't sell them.
69
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: WTB: Jujube scion wood
« on: September 27, 2020, 11:40:45 AM »
Hey, thank you for the detailed answer.
Even though the shipping price is not the primary reason I don't consider buying from US nurseries, let me just say that Harvey from figaholics charges $40 for international shipping (still too high imo) which is almost half the price. But it's a free market and anyone has the right to set their own prices, and it is up to me not to buy from them.
Generally, I'd like to avoid buying from nurseries. My country is in Europe, but it is not an EU member and it is, shall we say, significantly less organized than most western countries. That's why I have never had any problems receiving seeds, cuttings and even live plants, without a phyto certificate. People at the border don't even check what's inside the packages. I've bought seeds and cuttings from other forum members here, and I hope to do it again this time.
Unfortunately, seeds are not an option. I only want cuttings for grafting. We too have jujubes here since god knows when, but they are wild ones, although different than the wild ones you have in the US. They probably came as seeds of some cultivated variety from China, at least 150 years ago. Nobody here is even aware that there are large, cultivated jujubes in existence. Those are the ones I'm interested in and I have plenty of rootstock all around me to use.
Thank you for the links to the Italian nursery. I might try buying from them.
Even though the shipping price is not the primary reason I don't consider buying from US nurseries, let me just say that Harvey from figaholics charges $40 for international shipping (still too high imo) which is almost half the price. But it's a free market and anyone has the right to set their own prices, and it is up to me not to buy from them.
Generally, I'd like to avoid buying from nurseries. My country is in Europe, but it is not an EU member and it is, shall we say, significantly less organized than most western countries. That's why I have never had any problems receiving seeds, cuttings and even live plants, without a phyto certificate. People at the border don't even check what's inside the packages. I've bought seeds and cuttings from other forum members here, and I hope to do it again this time.
Unfortunately, seeds are not an option. I only want cuttings for grafting. We too have jujubes here since god knows when, but they are wild ones, although different than the wild ones you have in the US. They probably came as seeds of some cultivated variety from China, at least 150 years ago. Nobody here is even aware that there are large, cultivated jujubes in existence. Those are the ones I'm interested in and I have plenty of rootstock all around me to use.
Thank you for the links to the Italian nursery. I might try buying from them.
70
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / Re: WTB: Jujube scion wood
« on: September 26, 2020, 11:53:21 AM »
Thanks for the suggestion. You probably didn't notice my location, but I'm in Eastern Europe, so I don't have an option of calling US nurseries unfortunately. I have to rely on forum members here who are willing to sell scion wood and ship overseas. The shipping price of $70+ for international orders that this nursery lists is insanely high.
71
Temperate Fruit Buy, Sell, & Trade / WTB: Jujube scion wood
« on: September 26, 2020, 03:19:51 AM »
I'm looking to buy jujube scion wood in a few months so I just want to weigh my options as soon as possible.
Does anyone have the 'Sandia' variety? I'm also interested in GA866, GI1183, Chico, Li, Shanxi Li, Sihong, Topeka and Dongzao. Any other good variety is on the table too, except Sugarcane and Honey Jar which I already have.
Does anyone have the 'Sandia' variety? I'm also interested in GA866, GI1183, Chico, Li, Shanxi Li, Sihong, Topeka and Dongzao. Any other good variety is on the table too, except Sugarcane and Honey Jar which I already have.
72
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: white sapote grafting - video and questions
« on: September 25, 2020, 02:32:17 AM »
OK, as far as I understood, you can graft it anytime, as long as it's not cold. What about storing scion wood? Has anyone had experience with that?
73
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: white sapote grafting - video and questions
« on: September 24, 2020, 01:34:09 PM »Graft white sapote when rootstock and scion are pushing new growth.
Shade the graft and you should be fine
So that means spring? Pretty much the same as most other fruits? But I guess the scion wood would have to be cut at about the same time. Can I store it for a few days in the fridge?
White sapote has been as easy as mulberry to graft for me, basically 100% takes. I even had success with some wacko bark veneer grafts.
That's what I've heard about it. The grafting part won't be a problem, I'm just trying to get the timing right.
74
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: white sapote grafting - video and questions
« on: September 24, 2020, 09:47:48 AM »
I've planted two white sapote seedlings on my property on the Montenegrin coastline. We grow citrus here normally (though it is preferred for lemons to be planted near south facing walls; at least it was before the weather became warmer in the last decade). I plan to protect them during this first winter, just to be safe.
I was wondering, what is the best time to graft white sapote? Also, what would be the best time to take scion wood? Is it like with deciduous fruit trees, where scion wood is taken during winter and then stored in the fridge until spring, or does white sapote work differently, as an evergreen? If my trees survive the winter, I would like to graft good varieties onto them, but since I don't live near the property, I have to plan my time in advance.
I was wondering, what is the best time to graft white sapote? Also, what would be the best time to take scion wood? Is it like with deciduous fruit trees, where scion wood is taken during winter and then stored in the fridge until spring, or does white sapote work differently, as an evergreen? If my trees survive the winter, I would like to graft good varieties onto them, but since I don't live near the property, I have to plan my time in advance.
75
Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Grafting pineapple guava
« on: September 22, 2020, 04:20:27 AM »
Update
Out of 6 or 7 grafts only 2 took. One Nazemetz and one Coolidge. The interesting thing is, they were doing nothing for at least 3 months or more and only then decided to take, after I had lost all hope.
Out of 6 or 7 grafts only 2 took. One Nazemetz and one Coolidge. The interesting thing is, they were doing nothing for at least 3 months or more and only then decided to take, after I had lost all hope.
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