Parafilm Experience / Issues of Cracking

[behlgarden]

This is my first time grafting. I read here where some folks suggest stretching parafilm before applying to the cleft or bud union areas. I did that, and 24-hoyrs after bud eye was inserted into the root stock, the parafilm had cracked open. In my opinion Parafilm is simply not a good medium for grafting althogh it may work. It does not that "Grow and Stretch with me" capabilities that Buddy Tape may have.  I was amazed how quickly Cherimoya tree's branch started to heal/swell 24-hrs into grafting that it cracked parafilm due to excessive stretch.

I got this monster roll so I am now using it a lot, stretched and tight closer to the union and then not so stretched on outer layers.

I have already ordered Buddy Tape (for me and few folks in our group), hope to have it within a week. Has others experienced cracking in parafilm?

[adiel]

I never had any issues with Parafilm and have been using it for years.  This might help you: Do not stretch the parafilm like you would the green nursery tape.  They are both meant for different purposes:

Purpose of each:

Parafilm: For holding in moisture.  Not to be used for holding items together.  Usually use it over the red grafting rubber bands.

Nursery Green Tape (or grafting rubber bands): For holding the graft (scion and rootstock) tightly while the graft heals and calluses.

[Cookie Monster]

I've actually been using parafilm for a few years myself without any issues. Old parafilm can be a pain. But, if you're grafting enough, you'll go through a roll in a year or two, so it doesn't have a chance to age much.

That said, the price on the buddy tape is fab. I'd buy some myself if I didn't have a roll of parafilm :-).

[Mr. Clean]

DELETED

[Cookie Monster]

The most important variables in grafting are: time of year, type of graft, quality of cut, cleanliness of instruments, sharpness of blade, quality of rootstock and quality of scion. Once you've got those things down, then the type of securing tape and type of moisture barrier are insignificant. The main goal is to make sure you've secured the scion and roostock together in a way in which the cambium layers are touching and to ensure that the scion is not allowed to dehydrate nor receive outside rainfall during the healing process. Whether this is done with bands, green tape, plastic bag, etc is largely irrelevant.

[Tim]

The most important variables in grafting are: time of year, type of graft, quality of cut, cleanliness of instruments, sharpness of blade, quality of rootstock and quality of scion. Once you've got those things down, then the type of securing tape and type of moisture barrier are insignificant. The main goal is to make sure you've secured the scion and roostock together in a way in which the cambium layers are touching and to ensure that the scion is not allowed to dehydrate nor receive outside during the healing process. Whether this is done with bands, green tape, plastic bag, etc is largely irrelevant.

Now that's some expert advice right there ... merci, Jeff

[JF]

The most important variables in grafting are: time of year, type of graft, quality of cut, cleanliness of instruments, sharpness of blade, quality of rootstock and quality of scion. Once you've got those things down, then the type of securing tape and type of moisture barrier are insignificant. The main goal is to make sure you've secured the scion and roostock together in a way in which the cambium layers are touching and to ensure that the scion is not allowed to dehydrate nor receive outside during the healing process. Whether this is done with bands, green tape, plastic bag, etc is largely irrelevant.

Hi Jeff

I have been very successful grafting annoas this year. I've notice some of the grafts that pushed new growth real fast have turned black and died. Why is this happening and should I leave the graft alone to see if it pushes again?

JF
example

[Ethan]

For me parafilm seems to last longer if you store it indoors, in a zip top bag, in the dark.  I believe air/heat/UV break it down faster.

-Ethan

[Cookie Monster]

Sorry, meant to say outside rainfall :-).

The most important variables in grafting are: time of year, type of graft, quality of cut, cleanliness of instruments, sharpness of blade, quality of rootstock and quality of scion. Once you've got those things down, then the type of securing tape and type of moisture barrier are insignificant. The main goal is to make sure you've secured the scion and roostock together in a way in which the cambium layers are touching and to ensure that the scion is not allowed to dehydrate nor receive outside during the healing process. Whether this is done with bands, green tape, plastic bag, etc is largely irrelevant.

What did you mean by that?

[Cookie Monster]

Hey Joe. We were chatting back and forth about this on another thread. As a few pointed out, annonas will sprout like that even when tossed on the ground. The type of grafting tape is irrelevant here. You can cover it with a plastic bag and it will still die (I've tried it). Your best bet is to graft a little later in the year (summer) or use younger rootstock as suggested by Har and Adam.

The most important variables in grafting are: time of year, type of graft, quality of cut, cleanliness of instruments, sharpness of blade, quality of rootstock and quality of scion. Once you've got those things down, then the type of securing tape and type of moisture barrier are insignificant. The main goal is to make sure you've secured the scion and roostock together in a way in which the cambium layers are touching and to ensure that the scion is not allowed to dehydrate nor receive outside during the healing process. Whether this is done with bands, green tape, plastic bag, etc is largely irrelevant.

Hi Jeff

I have been very successful grafting annoas this year. I've notice some of the grafts that pushed new growth real fast have turned black and died. Why is this happening and should I leave the graft alone to see if it pushes again?

JF
example

[Jsvand5]

The main thing that was screwing me over when I started was leaving the plants out in the yard after I grafted them. Rain would get to them and they would die. Since I stated keeping all of my newly grafted plants under my covered porch I have had almost 100% takes.

[Cookie Monster]

That's one way. You can also graft in early May when only a portion of the buds have sprung and use the dormant buds.

Hi Jeff
To graft annona in the summer....What is the best way to prepare the scion that is already pushing out leaves....Should I cut off all the leaves and wait for bud to form then cut it to graft?
Thanks
DT

[Cookie Monster]

Yah, that makes a big difference. Water intrusion is conducive to fungal growth... which is not conducive to grafting :-).

The main thing that was screwing me over when I started was leaving the plants out in the yard after I grafted them. Rain would get to them and they would die. Since I stated keeping all of my newly grafted plants under my covered porch I have had almost 100% takes.

[edself65]

The most important thing that I found when using Parafilm M is the age of the film. A lot of times when you find it cheap it is pretty old! I agree with Jeffs earlier statement about the film being 2 years old or less it stretches really well. What I fould out the hard way is as the film ages it loses its ability to let moisture out. It will completely seal the scion and your scion will cook in the heat. The buddy tape is a much thinner material and has just given me all around better performance. But I all ways recommend you stick to whatever works best for you!

Thanks,

Ed

[JF]

thanks Jeff
I will try your suggestions. This has occur in a few the rest are still holding