The Tropical Fruit Forum
Tropical Fruit => Tropical Fruit Discussion => Topic started by: Cookie Monster on March 17, 2017, 01:17:34 PM
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I started noticing powdery mildew on a couple of my mango trees, so this note may be a little late. Some trees are very sensitive to sulfur -- lemon zest is the worst in my yard -- so try not to spray tender foliage with sulfur. Also, try to spay at dusk.
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I noticed my Sweet Tart is totally covered in PM. Has anyone else noticed PM susceptibility in Sweet Tart? For my tree I think it has a lot more to do with where the tree is currently located - heavily shaded and humid. However, the Florigon, Fairchild, Malika, Pickering, and Angie are not being affected to the same degree?
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In my yard, Ugly Betty is one tree that is really susceptible to Powdery Mildew. Sweet Tart has been a champion for me this year. Flowered for the first time, and holding on to most of its fruits. I did spray liquid copper fungicide but did not hit it with sulfur. Seems like a problem free tree.
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Never an issue on my sweet tart.
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Some of my biggest powdery mildew magnets are:
White Pirie
Lemon Zest
Jumbo Kesar
Harvest Moon
Cac
Alphonso
Truth be told though, pretty much any mango can get powdery mildew. Sometimes it's just luck. The difference for some of them is that certain cultivars will set fruit right through the PM, like Ah Ping, Rosigold, Duncan and others.
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What kind of sulfur is used??
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nam doc and carrie,cac get the pm hey cookie if you spray at dusk and drying time is to long can it leed to burn a lot of chems tell on label to be careful about drying time?
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This tree a Valencia Pride is having a hard time I've been using Cupro 500. 61% copper and it's not helping much will sulfur help is so what kind??
(https://s17.postimg.cc/55ca8r4m3/20170318_085228.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/55ca8r4m3/)
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(https://s7.postimg.cc/3rt9y95cn/20170318_090415.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3rt9y95cn/)
(https://s11.postimg.cc/ixi564aen/20170318_090856.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ixi564aen/)
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My pina colada bloom was totally whipped out by PM. I'm definitely hoping it will re-bloom after this cold spell. Any Issues with spraying sulfur on the Pina Colada?
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I noticed PM on my Providence Mango nearly two weeks ago and treated it with two applications of wettable/dusting sulfur from Southern Ag. I have 30 mango varieties on my two year old property including all of the varieties mentioned in this thread. The only issue I've had so far is controlling anthracnose on my Pina Colada and Dot. I did not spray sulfur on any trees other than the Providence, which seems to under control and setting fruit.
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I've got what looks to be a really good fruit set on my pina colada. I'm sure there will be some abscission, but it's set a lot of little bbs. I think the key is to treat it for fungus.
I've been really pleased with THAT flowable sulfur, but there are many other products out there.
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Looks like scab to me.
(https://s7.postimg.cc/3rt9y95cn/20170318_090415.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3rt9y95cn/)
(https://s11.postimg.cc/ixi564aen/20170318_090856.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ixi564aen/)
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Carrie, Lemon Meringue and Ugly Betty have been hit really badly by PM in my yard. Sweet Tart too, but not as much. Mahachanok, which is right next to Carrie, hasn't been hit at all.
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I've got what looks to be a really good fruit set on my pina colada. I'm sure there will be some abscission, but it's set a lot of little bbs. I think the key is to treat it for fungus.
I've been really pleased with THAT flowable sulfur, but there are many other products out there.
Jeff that's the one you want to use. But you should spray your trees at the end of December before Bud brake.
Joe.
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I've got what looks to be a really good fruit set on my pina colada. I'm sure there will be some abscission, but it's set a lot of little bbs. I think the key is to treat it for fungus.
I've been really pleased with THAT flowable sulfur, but there are many other products out there.
What "flowable sulfur" are you recommending and where can I get it? I bought some stuff from HD yesterday out of desperation. It was in a liquid form and was labeled "Orchard spray" had sulfur as main ingredient.
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Haven't noticed any powdery mildew on my trees thus far, though a couple of the younger, non-fruiting mangoes (sweet tart and edgar) seem to have some anthracnose spots showing up that I should spray some copper on to keep from spreading.
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http://www.engageagrousa.com/products.php?cid=1&pid=61 (http://www.engageagrousa.com/products.php?cid=1&pid=61)
This is the product I have however have not had time to administer to can not recommend. The biggest problem is there are not application instructions (ratios) product/gal of water.
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Precipitated primarily by::: TEMPERATURES.
The recent outbreak of powdery mildew was reported by cookie monster after cool moist nights 60-72F (ideal 69.8F for max. fungus pwd mildew growth) reaching far south florida. Also day temperatures were not reaching 86F probably. Can not verify all areas.
1. http://anr.ext.wvu.edu/r/download/57038 (http://anr.ext.wvu.edu/r/download/57038) It's good to know similar situation occurs in COOL moist environments usually dark at night. (Cooler in Orlando & Loxahatachee etc. than Delray/miami/etc. normally at night)
Grass looks as though it is sprinkled with flour. Kentucky bluegrass and shade areas are the most susceptible. Grass will wither and die. It is FAVORED BY TEMPERATURES of 60-72 F
Water only in the morning; reduce shade by pruning, aerate and check drainage in the area.
2. https://www.practicalwinery.com/marapr03/marapr03p16.htm (https://www.practicalwinery.com/marapr03/marapr03p16.htm)
Note that whereas the fungus can multiply rapidly when temperatures are in the mid-60s to mid-80s, it is inactive while temperatures remain above 90†F. In fact, some spores and colonies are killed after relatively short exposures above 95†F
3. http://www.begonias.org/Articles/Vol72/PowderyMildew.htm (http://www.begonias.org/Articles/Vol72/PowderyMildew.htm)
Most powdery mildews have an optimum temperature of 21°C (Celio & Hausbeck, 1998). The germination of spores is less efficient at higher temperatures. Also the growth of hyphal threads will be curbed at higher temperatures. There is no infection if the temperature is above 30 ,(C. Research has found that the maximum temperature is 30 °C for appresoriumformation, while the colonies die at a temperature of 32°C (Quinn & Powell, 1982). Mildew will not die at lower temperatures, but its growth will decrease.
1 =favored temp.60-72F
#2 Mid 60s to mid 80s F and slow at 90F and some killed at 95F
#3 21C = 69.8F = great powdery mildew temperature for growth
#3 No infection if above 30C = 86F = Lucky Miami a lot of the time for less fungus growth.
...Just thought I would open a few eyes...
I might as well add a link to the highly paid professionals opinion... aka pot growers...
https://www.420magazine.com/forums/frequently-asked-questions/102994-powdery-mildew.html (https://www.420magazine.com/forums/frequently-asked-questions/102994-powdery-mildew.html)
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Divide the per acre rate by 100. You'll need to weigh it --1.6 - 4.8 dry ounces per gallon.
http://www.engageagrousa.com/products.php?cid=1&pid=61 (http://www.engageagrousa.com/products.php?cid=1&pid=61)
This is the product I have however have not had time to administer to can not recommend. The biggest problem is there are not application instructions (ratios) product/gal of water.
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I'm starting to see anthracnose now. These past couple of days of rain (south fl area) came at the wrong time. Had to spray for anthracnose yesterday.
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I'm starting to see anthracnose now. These past couple of days of rain (south fl area) came at the wrong time. Had to spray for anthracnose yesterday.
My Pickering Some if the leaves has the little black spots on the bottom half of the tree, but the fruit is clean , Spraying copper every 2 Weeks ?
Thanks Ed
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Divide the per acre rate by 100. You'll need to weigh it --1.6 - 4.8 dry ounces per gallon.
http://www.engageagrousa.com/products.php?cid=1&pid=61 (http://www.engageagrousa.com/products.php?cid=1&pid=61)
This is the product I have however have not had time to administer to can not recommend. The biggest problem is there are not application instructions (ratios) product/gal of water.
Thanks Cookie. Such a broad range of varied concentration.
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I'm starting to see anthracnose now. These past couple of days of rain (south fl area) came at the wrong time. Had to spray for anthracnose yesterday.
What are the visual symptoms of early anthracnose? Are you seeing it on the fruit?
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Black spots on the little bb-sized fruit.
I'm starting to see anthracnose now. These past couple of days of rain (south fl area) came at the wrong time. Had to spray for anthracnose yesterday.
What are the visual symptoms of early anthracnose? Are you seeing it on the fruit?
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Black spots on the little bb-sized fruit.
I'm starting to see anthracnose now. These past couple of days of rain (south fl area) came at the wrong time. Had to spray for anthracnose yesterday.
What are the visual symptoms of early anthracnose? Are you seeing it on the fruit?
With all the heat we have been having the last few days are you done with Sulfur or will you be mixing Copper and Sulfur?
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Dont spray sulfur if you have sprayed any oil like neem . It will burn
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I've mixed copper + sulfur before with good result. I'm personally not using sulfur though. I use a rotation of abound / nordox / pristine / switch.