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Author Topic: How about a satsuma in zone 7 on a south wall?  (Read 3739 times)

Citradia

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Re: How about a satsuma in zone 7 on a south wall?
« Reply #25 on: July 06, 2016, 09:46:50 PM »
Van. Bless your heart and your trees. As a fellow zone 7a/6b'er, I must advise you to protect those baby trees from the freeze for the next few winters. I tried planting my two-year old trifoliate hybrid seedlings and a Changsha cutting grafted on trifoliate one summer and covered them with plastic sheeting over wire dome cages that I ventilated on days with highs in 50's, and heated them with heat lamp bulbs on freezing nights. They all did well until I took the plastic off and heat lamps off in spring. These trees made it without dropping leaves all winter with lows in single digits, but I lost the Changsha mandarin graft after only two nights on separate weeks with lows of 19 degrees when unprotected. The trifoliate hybrids were unaffected. My 4-ft tall Kimbrough satsuma was unscathed on year in its plastic covered enclosure when the power was out all day and night and of course it's space heater was not working, with a high of 19 degrees during the day; I don't know how cold it got that night because I abandoned my home that afternoon to shelter at friends house at lower elevation, since ground covered in snow and ice. The water barrel in greenhouse with Kimbrough probably saved it that night, that and fact it was not a new graft at that point. New grafts more susceptible to cold.

vanman

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Re: How about a satsuma in zone 7 on a south wall?
« Reply #26 on: July 09, 2016, 03:20:30 PM »
Thanks for the advise and info citradia.  My eventual goal is to keep them outside with minimal effort.  I realize they may be the most vulnerable and sensitive the first few years.  I've got some other rootstock growing which I will graft (sour orange, FD and PT) onto down the road.  I'll also root some on their own.  I'm hoping that the microclimate will be enough to sustain them. The big problem are the polar vortexes that may last a week keeping temperatures below freezing for a long time and the next week it may be 70's for a week.  This is why I may be putting some heat tape in the ground around the roots. 

Oh well,  what else do we have to do with our time and money.  Van

Pancrazio

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Re: How about a satsuma in zone 7 on a south wall?
« Reply #27 on: July 09, 2016, 07:43:17 PM »
Barrels of water are an cheap, easy to set up, and surprisingly efficient way to keep the temperature high under a enclosure. In last 4 years i have been growing a mango in zone 8 with nothing else than barrels of water (around 120 gallons) to keep it warm, and sun during the day to warm the barrels. And i live at 44N so my sun is pretty low during winter, night are pretty long, and also since i'm in a mediterranean climate, often overcast. Still...

The principle to give minimal effort is a good one. Over the years a plant has to prove itself Exceptionally Good and Worthwhile to justify all the time spent, and the effort done to keep them alive. Eventually the novelty effect wears out, so you'll be willing to do so much effort just if the plant is really good, or the effort is sustainable - evenmore if you plan to grow several plants.

However when attempting something hard (like growing a plant outside its growing zone), i think that first you've got to attempt to reach you goal, then simplify. For instance the first year with my mango i used 1 gal container to store the water instead of barrels because the 1 gal containers were more efficient (in my imagination) for heat exchanging. They may have been; but the work of filling then one by one was simply too much time consuming and tedious; so the next year they were gone. The plant survived and i got some simplification.
Of course simplification can't go on forever, but you get the idea. You get your plant to live first, then you try to push the most lazyness it can stand before dying.  ;)
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LaCasaVerde

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Re: How about a satsuma in zone 7 on a south wall?
« Reply #28 on: October 23, 2016, 11:12:41 AM »
Vanman,

You need to go ahead and make a cold frame now. Have 6 mil poly handy and cover it. Christmas lights around the tree and on the ground. Secondary 175 incandecent stake lighting as well for additional heating with sufficent clearence from covering.. Bricks alone will not provide enough heat. Perhaps heated as you suggest but then only effective for juvenile trees.   Ive built many cold frames of different sizes citrus  trees all the way up to 16 tall and 16 wide so I can tell you its very possible to be sucussfull there-hands free , probably not. Xie shan though hardy will not take  your long hard winters without protection period. Im protecting my xie shan here in 9a until year three.. Pvc frames anchored to the ground  do well. That being said- why not duct heat from the greenhouse into your cold frame structure? Looks like that would be easier.

 

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