Problem With Eugenia Seedlings Turning Yellow!

[Kevin Jones]

Last year I grew several different Eugenias from seed with varying results.
Cherry of the Rio Grande - Pitangatuba - Suriname Cherry - Grumichama - Pitomba and the like.
Many of them are exhibiting yellowing leaves. Some are not.
Grumichamas seem most susceptible.
Side by side...  some are a healthy green while others are a sickly yellow.
All are grown in containers.
Seems to effect younger plants more than mature.
How can I prevent the yellowing?
Over time I've tried several different amenities.
I've tried fertilizers - organic and/or non. for possible nitrogen problems.
Cotton Seed meal for ph and nitrogen
Chelated iron for mineral deficiencies.
Elemental Sulfur for ph.
I seen no consistant positive results.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Kevin

[Guanabanus]

pictures?

[Pan Dulce]

Some just struggle for the first year or so then come out of it once the root systems get stronger.

[Kevin Jones]

I can believe that. It's seem like the more mature plants shake it off.
Here's an example...

[Guanabanus]

Although it does look like deficiency of Sulfur, or Iron (severe), or Nitrogen (usually on older leaves first), it could also be Zinc deficiency (but which usually also reduces leaf size or contorts leaves), or Calcium deficiency.

Easiest would be to use a full "minors mix" plus Seaweed Extract, which has a little of everything, and some Calcium Sulfate (gypsum)[which does not change pH]--- "shotgun technique" / butt-covering method.

[Kevin Jones]

I like your thinking.
Last week I started using Espoma (HT50 50 Lb) Organic Holly Tone fertilizer and some cotton seed meal.
I know ph issues can cause mineral deficiencies...  so the sulfur in the Holly Tone and the acidic quality of cotton seed meal should help correct some of those problems.
But... Eugenia are such slow growing plants you really have to be patient.
No fast results.

Thanks.

kj

[huertasurbanas]

Kevin, are you given them too much sun? I think they would prefer acid soils (maybe pitangatuba could need something more alcaline) and shade, till they are 30 or 40cm tall... here at my house they all grow fine if I put them in the shade.

Many of my grumichamas looked like yours when in bad soils and/or too much sun/hot.

[greenman62]

i have a pitangatuba hat looked really sad.
i gave it iron and epsom salts and it popped back with new healthy green leaves.

3 or 4 times a year i had iron and epsom to my waterings for everything now.
its corrected a few problems.
of course i am growing lots of "forest" type plants in mostly sand.

ive also found keeping a constant moisture level
and also temp level can have huge effects, especially on containers.
some of my black containers were getting so hot (in full sun) i think it was damaging roots.
beneficial bacteria and fungi do better without the extreme changes.

[achetadomestica]

Last year I started yellow grumichama seedlings in full sun. All were very yellow until I took them out of full sun.
They were spindly and most of them never flourished?
This year I started grumichama on my screened in lania. They are dark green
in color and are growing much faster. I bumped one up to a 3 gallon and put it in a spot that gets a few hours of morning
sun and it is doing great, still dark green. Even my large fruit producing grumichama and pitangatuba have their
leaves turn light green to yellow in July and August. They darken up in the winter when the sun is not as intense, Try planting the
same seeds on a lanai or in a greenhouse with filtered sunlight.

Mike

[Kevin Jones]

They were started in filtered greenhouse light...  but they now reside in full Alabama sun.

kj

[Kevin Jones]

Also I use municipal water source.

kj

[huertasurbanas]

They were started in filtered greenhouse light...  but they now reside in full Alabama sun.

Also I use municipal water source.

kj

I think both things could kill them easily... you should give them more shade and rain water if possible!

[Kevin Jones]

Would you recommend partial shade while they are young... then full sun after they mature?

kj

[huertasurbanas]

Would you recommend partial shade while they are young... then full sun after they mature?

kj

full shade now till they recover, and not too hot!

[achetadomestica]

Try some new seedlings in filtered sunlight. It is like night and day and I doubt the water is that big of an issue.
But if possible try some of the new seedlings on rain water and some on your tap water and see for yourself.
As far as when they get large you can experiment with them as they mature. Try upsizing some tree's pots and leaving in
filtered sunlight and try some in full sunlight. I planted my four large grumichama in full sun and I wish I would have
put them in a more shaded location. When I read the info online it said full sun or partial but for Florida the full sun effects
the appearance of the trees. Luckily fruit production is great which is more important then appearance. I currently have
E. brasiliensis, E. unicolor, E. florida, E. calycina, and thanks to huertasurbanas I have E. repanda, E. lutescens x pyriformis( 2 varieties )
and M. pungens seedlings from this year and they are all growing in filtered sunlight and they are doing great. I bought a
beautiful dark green M. pungens two feet tall a couple years ago and put it in direct sunlight. Dead within a year, I have a yearling and
5 fresh seedlings doing great in filtered sunlight. 

[Kevin Jones]

I've got new surinam cherries sprouting right now.
And fresh Grumachamas and Cherry of the Rio Grande arriving soon
I'll leave they in the greenhouse away from direct sunlight as a test.
Certainly couldn't do any worse.

kj