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Messages - greenman62

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Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Rooting Shangri La Mulberry Cuttings
« on: August 04, 2018, 12:53:28 PM »
In the past when I have had multiple cuttings I tried
a couple different ways like rooting hormone, honey, and nothing.
I have also cut the bottom out of 2 liter plastic bottles and covered the cutting
to create more humidity. I never had more success using rooting hormone?

The good news is most mulberries root very easy.
I usually leave one small leaf or a half leaf. Allot of times the mulberry
puts out flowers when you are rooting it and it ends up with a couple
small fruit. I snip them off so the cutting concentrates on rooting not fruiting.
It's amazing how fast the roots come out of the bottom of the pot when they take.

Thanks.  I have a newish himalayan mulberry tree that was grafted.  Not sure why it was grafted if they are so easy to propgate via cuttings?

grafting is better if the graft union is good.
mulberry can get quite large, and having it on seed-grown would have a taproot
and better rooting all together i imagine....

my Pakistani is grafted, and its quite strong, and vigorous.
not sure what they used as rootstock,
but red and white both grow here (South Louisiana) like weeds.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Growing papaya
« on: July 26, 2018, 11:09:06 AM »
they like a ton of organic matter (well rotted).
its hard to over-fertilize them.

they like water, but it has to be well draining.
lots of sun and heat, the more the better.
root-rot + over watering is the #1 killer.

compost around the base, then mulch on top works great.

rabbit and chicken waste, or fish emulsion are good fertilizers.

roots dont like to be disturbed, plant in-place if possible.
(or use a peat-based container) then cut the bottom when planting out.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: what do you plant indoor?
« on: July 25, 2018, 08:31:43 AM »
The stuff I've had the best luck with so far are sub-tropicals and tropicals from non equatorial areas, including:
strawberry and lemon guava
natal plums

fig and POM indoors ?
do you have a small star to produce light ?

most ive talked to in the fig forum
had told me any fig they grew in shade had very low production.
ive been under the impression POM was the same way also... is it not ?

one trick i do use for any plant that is in shade a lot
is extra iron and magnesium
they darken the leaves allowing it to photosynthesize with less light.
my Feijoa 's leaves got much darker, and the plant looked a lot healthier.
its also helped, mulberry, katuk, citrus, persimmon... and fig too.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Mexican cream guava taste?
« on: July 23, 2018, 04:16:21 PM »
the first few times i ate guava, it was terrible
until i grew a plant. Mex Cream.
the aroma was fantastic. i didnt like the hard seeds until i realized i could chew them

then, i grew a large white.
when ripe, the fruit is soft and   sweet.
now i love the damn things, but cant find them for sale
and last years frost killed my plants to the ground.
they are coming back, but fruit on last years wood.

my biggest problem with them is having 2 years without a hard frost
and , if i get that, i get tied of eating them in 2 weeks or so
then i have 100 fruit going bad... the Mex cream seem to fruit in spring
and do almost nothing the rest of the year.


And for God sakes, do not forget the Smith for that beats out most everything in the taste dept. and in Louisiana is loved by most. A true heirloom fig!

Smith in LA (high humidity) = great

Smith in AZ (low humidity) = poor producer.

Some figs like Smith are well-adapated to high humidity. Some figs like a Mediterranean climite, low humidity.

I have a several year old Smith tree. Smith in my environment produces excellent figs about 25% of the time. The other 75% of the figs are either bland / tasteless (cardboard) or completely dried out around the ostiole.

thanks, i will have to try and find a Smith.
i have 3 un-named, or mis-named. (one might be Smith)
1 is excellent. lots of fruit, taste great, no idea what it is.

i have a Black Mission, and i think its too humid for it.
it grows OK, but produces little.

this is the un-named, excellent fruit.
it gets larger and dark just before ripening.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Brutal heatwave 7/06/18 in Socal
« on: July 23, 2018, 03:58:24 PM »
Here we go again.

Today 118
Tues 118
Wed 120

I think it only got to 118 once last summer. That will be 5 days 118 or over before the end of July. Sigh.

wow, and i was complaining about 97 yesterday, and 95 today.
ive been out spraying water on the leaves and mulch layer.

watch out for black containers !!!
they suck up  that heat and fry the roots.
OK if its an edible root and your hungry i guess... :)

someone said humidity keeps the temps down ?
its 61% today, and often is over 80%. (90% in the morning)
i was out yesterday for 40 mins at 8:30am, before 9am i was soaked in sweat.
full clothing change including socks.

im curious as well
i just got seeds from trade winds for  jangomans and inermis (luvi-luvi).
does anyone know how cold-hardy they are ??

i have 2 what i think are Governor plums.
on one, the leaves are much broader
the one with the smaller leaves is flowering, and growing faster as well
i put the large-leaf one in ground recently.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Site Outage
« on: July 22, 2018, 02:37:53 PM »


for a google search
use this google operator...

here it is as a URL
save the link and just change the word Jaboticaba,
 to whatever you want to search for.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Fruit identification
« on: July 21, 2018, 08:34:59 AM »


 Few folks know the blossoms of the Magnolia grandiflora are edible, however their flavor is intense and they taste similar to how they smell. They are not eaten raw per se. They are pickled. Oddly the practice started in England and you only use the petals, not the entire blossom. What works best is to pickle the petals in a sweet/sour pickle recipe. Then take out one petal, dice it, and use it sparingly as a flavoring in salads. The flavor is strong so go easy. Also, M. grandifloraĎs leaf can be used just as Magnolia virginianaĎs can as a bay leaf, that is to flavor soups and the like. However, donít use the entire leaf because it is way too big. Cut it into smaller pieces when used like a bay leaf.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Citrus leaf pic - iron deficiency?
« on: July 20, 2018, 11:34:59 AM »
Mainly on new growth.  My citrus has had a very hard year.  They were stressed by Irma, under water for over 2 weeks from the Irma flood, then heavily, and I mean heavily attacked by leaf miners this spring.

It's a wonder I have any citrus trees left.

i lost a 25yr satsuma, delicious too.
we had a once in 100yr cold snap in New Orleans - 20F.
i was surprised, my meyers lemon came back, blood orange too.
now i am fighting Asian Psyllids and greening disease.
ive seen the Psyllids on my trees on new growth
i spray with oregano oil and alcohol+soap.

leaf miners are impossible to get rid of.
lots of flowering plants bring in predators that keep them at bay
but my neighbor has 5 large citrus he doesnt care for.

BTW... probably iron.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: ID seedling ??
« on: July 20, 2018, 11:28:39 AM »

i actually have a  peanut butter plant
but the leaves are different.

i actually just got a  'Tropical apricot' from Murray at mygardenofdelights
but it lost all its leaves in shipping
and hasnt re-leafed yet.
the trunk still has green under the bark, but its been a few weeks
its supposedly an improved variety, so i hope it pulls through so i can graft this one too.

from online photos, i think this is it.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / ID seedling ??
« on: July 19, 2018, 05:49:15 PM »
i have 2 seedlings
old soil and no tags.
can anyone ID them ??

also in the 2nd pic, there has been no new growth in months
and ive added fertilizer, iron, magnesium, and fish emulsion.
not sure what else to do
and the leaves have started curling under.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Citrus leaf pic - iron deficiency?
« on: July 19, 2018, 05:44:25 PM »
is it mainly on new growth or old ?

ive added epsom and iron to my citrus
and they greeneds up quite nicely.

Iron deficiency
starts on young terminal leaves and later works inward to the older leaves. However, deficiencies in manganese,
zinc or nitrogen develop on inner or older leaves first and then progress outward.
Symptoms include leaves turning yellow or brown in the margins between the veins which may remain green,
while young leaves may appear to be bleached

Due to magnesiumís mobile nature, the plant will first break down chlorophyll in older leaves and transport the Mg to younger leaves
 Excess potassium, generally due to fertilizers, further aggravates the stress from magnesium deficiency,[2] as does aluminium toxicity.[3]
Interveinal chlorotic mottling or marbling of the older leaves which proceeds toward the younger leaves as the deficiency becomes more severe.

Manganese (Mn)
deficiency is a plant disorder that is often confused with, and occurs with, iron deficiency. Most common in poorly drained soils, also where organic matter levels are high. Manganese may be unavailable to plants where pH is high.

It is a component of chlorophyll, so when nitrogen is insufficient, leaves will take on a yellow (chlorotic) appearance down the middle of the leaf.  Restricted growth of tops and roots and especially lateral shoots. Plants become spindly with gen eral chlorosis of entire plant to a light green and then a yellowing of older leaves which proceeds toward younger leaves

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: How To Reach High Mulberries?
« on: July 19, 2018, 02:35:56 PM »
shake the tree.
only the ripe ones fall which works fine for me.
plastic tarp on the ground can help.

also, ive use a pole with a plastic bottle on the end
bottom cut out, top taped into the pole.
1 litre drink bottles work OK.

this species is rare, because it only grows in a certain climate
there is plenty of nearby rainforest for it to move into
which means its probably not very tolerant of environmental changes.

looking at the map
these 3 look like they might have more cold tolerance.

vasconcellea chilensis
vasconcellea glandulosa
vasconcellea quercifolia

seems almost impossible to get seed for any
except quercifolia

or maybe here.

$20 for seed (even palanda)

A treelet endemic to Ecuador where it is known from a single population in the Andes of Zamora province.
Vasconcellea palandensis is endemic to Ecuador. It is known only from one population in Zamora-Chinchipe province.

Humid, premontane forest at elevations from 1790 - 1,850 metres
Seed - sow in individual containers or in a nursery seedbed in light shade. Germination can be slow and difficult, taking about 30 days

 Highland papayas

The fruiting part of the tree would still have issues with humidity.

i am in New Orleans, and several figs do very well here
(we have very high humidity most of the year)
try the LSU varieties (several types, purple, gold,  Tiger) and Scottís Black.

2 best for the South IMO
 Improved celeste is the best grower, vigorous and productive
 Texas Everbearing   also known as Brown Turkey

they have  shallow root systems, so deep loose soils
and lots of mulch and organic matter in the soil definitely help.

the one thing i would say, is if the soil is consistently moist during early fruiting
they could drop the fruit. the soil needs to dry out a bit from time to time in spring.


ive had 3 (1 still alive -freeze killed the others)
they all  had been chlorotic at first
iron, magnesium and nitrogen greened them up.
im not sure which one is the culprit, maybe 2, or all 3, but it made a huge difference.
and it took several days to notice any change at all,

Nitrogen is mobile in the plant, so, you can see the difference in days.
iron is not, you have to wait for new growth.
(Magnesium is "Somewhat mobile")

too much magnesium can act as a salt and shrivel up leaves
too much of anything can lockout other nutrients. just an FYI.

that does look like Shangri-la in the original post.
a small touch of magnesium and/or iron might green up the leaves a bit more.
i didnt know Shangri-la would start from cuttings... good to know, i will try it soon.

some places selling it say its Morus Nigra... others say it is Morus Rubra x Alba - Hybrid.

my rubra starts from cuttings very very easily.
Nigras usually do not.

Itís a variety of black mulberry, I donít think the leaves are bigger then normal though

I have a Shangri La and the leaves are much bigger than my Everbearing and Pakistani.

same here. leaves are much larger for the Shangri La.
i had originally thought it had to do with water, sun, minerals etc...
but its definately not that.... Shangri La just has larger leaves.

i am in New Orleans, but they ship rather easy + cheap.
i have pakastani, M Rubra, dwarf black, and Silk Hope which is a Nigra
(some say its an AlbaxRubra cross ?) i think its Nigra...
and 1 or 2 other Nigra
also about 5 others with no name, but very nice fruit.

Male  plants(seeds) outnumber female plants by a large percentage.

i got some from uncle Chan also - recently
(ive gotten lots of stuff from him)
only 2 germinated and i killed one, so i bought more
waiting for those to come up (1-2 weeks now)

can they grow from cuttings ?
maybe we can do some trades here if someone has a female plant.

so we had 21F record breaking cold in New Orleans in January
but, lots of stuff are back from the roots.

here are a few pics.

Cherry of the Rio Grand



purple forest guava, natal plum, pachira glabra

Honey locust


Malva - marshmallow

Pepper -white


Japanese Raisin Tree


Jujube - Sherwood

Lichi tomato

dagga - lions tail


Eugenia Florida

Pachira, Guava, Chaya, natal plum


Indian Jujube

Jabo, strawberries, peppers, edible greens

naranjilla (Lulo) blueberries, myers lemon


sunflower, grumichama

tree tomato

Keep the vine healthy well fed and watered, give it room to run up and enough sun. They can withstand the caterpillar attack and get beyond their capacity to damage it. It may be possible that the stress stimulates fruiting. Good luck!

i think it depends on the passi variety and caterpillar.

i have grown incarnata several times... usually, very healthy, at least 30ft of vine
almost every time each leaf was down to a nub in a few weeks.
at first i would kill each one, then it was just too much .
usually the plant is overcome in fall, and in winter (here) they often die back to the ground anyway.
try attracting birds, lizards, other predators.

Tropical Fruit Discussion / Re: Myrica rubra
« on: June 24, 2018, 02:44:44 PM »
Hereís a good read, itís probably posted somewhere already but buried.

Looks like we should be able to germinate the seeds pretty easily if we had access to a lab with the PGRs. I donít so Iíll probably end up growing some outdoors for a year and then heat and cold stratify the other half. Looks like I should remove the seed cover.


link didnt work
but pretty sure this is it
-this link should be OK

Roles of gibberellins and abscisic acid in dormancy and germination of
red bayberry (Myrica rubra) seeds

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